FoldaRap Build Manual
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Tools required
- 1,5 mm hexagonal wrench (for the pulleys grub screw)
- 2 mm hexagonal wrench (for M3 counterksunk bolts and pneumatic fittings "MA-12-03-M5")
- 2,5 mm hexagonal wrench (for normal M3 cap-head bolts and the rounded M4 bolts used for the frame)
- little flat screwdriver (1,5mm) (for the board's screw terminals)
- Philips (PH2) or flat screwdriver (3mm) (for the psu's screw terminals)
You may need also :
- a 5,5mm flat spanner or a small pliers (for m3 nuts)
- something to cut wires, and strip them (knife, automatic striper, etc.)
- a lighter for the heat-shrink sleeves
- soldering iron (to eventually solder the endstops)
- small files (round, flat) to eventually ream the printed parts
- a glue gun (gluing the endstop on the printed part is easier/quicker than using bolts)
- a multimeter (to set the drivers current)
Contents
Previous Version
The build manual for the FoldaRap 1 is here.
General tips
- Read the whole manual once or twice before starting, to get an overview of the build
- Basically we have a main frame and several sub-assemblies, some can be done in parallel : gather your friends and establish a record for minimum building time ! (Actual best record : 4 hours)
- Work on a cutting mat if you have one, it will protect your table plus they often show a millimetre grid that will be useful to check the bolts length (with some experience you will recognize them just by looking or holding one).
- Place you mouse over a picture in a list if you wonder what part it is
- In case of doubt, don't hesitate to have a look at the 3d model in Sketchup (before/during the build), even if about a next version of the machine it will show you the folded/unfolded state of the machine and you can play around with it :)
Ok let's start It should take approximately 12 hours to put everything together. From step 1 to 4 : 2-4 hours
Know the parts
Firstly, have a look at all the part and learn what everything is.
foot-front left
foot-front right
foot-rear left
foot-rear right
hinge-outer left
hinge-outer right
hinge-inner left
hinge-Inner right
z-motor-bracket left
z-motor-bracket right
z-top left
z-top right
y-idler
y-carriage
belt-clamp
y-motor
extruder left
Z-slider left
Z-slider right
extruder right
x-slider
hotend-holder
fan holder
board mounts
underplate
reprap.org plate
How to insert a T-nut
Tightening torque : 2.5 Nm (+/- 5%)
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Base Frame
Rear Base
x1 foot-rear-left
x1 foot-rear-right
x2 200mm profile
x4 m4x8
x4 t-nut
exploded view
tips : use the other extrusions to help you while adding the first two nuts
assembled
Front Base
x1 foot-front-left
x1 foot-front-right
x2 200mm profile
x2 m4x8
x2 t-nut
exploded
tips: keep it flush by pushing the extrusion in from the flat side of the foot
assembled
Base Frame
x1 rear assembly
x1 front assembly
x1 hinge-inner-left
x1 hinge-inner-right
x4 300mm profile
x10 m4x8
x10 t-nut
slide the hinge-inners on two 300mm extrusions, don't lock them yet
Y-idler
y-idler
x1 m3x20
x2 603zz bearing
x2 m3 washer
x2 m4x8
x2 t-nut
tips : it's easier to add everything while holding the y-idler in vertical position
then add it on the frame, don't fully tighten the T-nut, you will need to move it slightly later to center it
Y-motor
Plug
x1 y-motor
x1 plug
x2 m3 nut
x2 m3x8
add the male plug with 2 m3x8 and 2 m3 nut
Motor
x2 m3x8
x1 nema 14 stepper motor
x1 pulley
add the pulley on the motor shaft, and lock it with the grubscrew on the flat of the shaft
add the motor with 2 or 3 m3x8, the wires pointing downward
sometimes the pulley shape can vary, don't worry about it, as long as the flange is aligned along the plastic
Wiring
x7 ferules
heat-shrink sleeve
x1 switch
x3 m4x8
x3 t-nut
cut some wires : 1 green wire 18WG of 10cm, one end with ferule, the other end just stripped (male plug Ground to power supply Ground)
crimp the ferules on the wires
eventually add a drop of solder to make a perfect connection
don't forget to insulate the ferules with the heatshrink sleeve
the green wire in place, now to the red/black ones !
1 red wire of 9cm, 1 black of 6-7cm 18AWG, both ends with ferule (male plug Live/Neutral to switch Live/Neutral)
1 red and 1 black wire 18AWG of 10cm, one end with ferule, the other end just stripped (blue-switch Live/Neutral to power supply Live/Neutral). You may need longer wires depending of the power supply and it's position on the underplate, it may be good to shorten them later, once the psu is in place.
add the t-nuts
put the big blue switch in the rear-foot
now you can lock the Y-motor while pushing it against the same rear foot (the two small bumps helps to center the Y-motor)
pay attention to really lock the t-nut near the plug, as it is easy for now and later you will push against it when you plug the power cable in
A part of the wiring depend of the combination of electronic board and power supply, for other version : FoldaRap_power-supplies
Z-axis
Z-Left / Z-Right
x1 hinge-outer-left
x1 hinge-outer-right
x1 z-motor-left
x1 z-motor-right
x2 300mm profile
x4 m4x8
x4 t-nut
Z-Motors
x2 nema14
x4 m3x8
Hinges
x2 m3x20
x2 m3 nut
Underplate
Power Supply
Different kind of power supply have been used in FoldaRap builds, if you don't recognize yours look at this page : FoldaRap power-supplies
Anyway, the principle is always 1) bolt the power supply on the plate, 2) then the plate on the base of the frame
x1 power supply
x2 m3x8
x2 m3 nut
x1 lasercut underplate
x6 m4x8
x6 t-nut
Now you can push the hinge against the plate
Z-axis 2
x4 m4x8
x4 t-nut
X-axis
X-motor
The holes for mounting the motor are wide in order to be able to use them for adding tension on the X belt. Thus mount the motor as close as possible to the extrusion side in order to be able to push the motor the other way arround at the tensionning step.
x1
x3
x3
x1 (50cm wires)
x1
x1 (with 50cm red 26AWG wires for x-endstop, fix with an m3x8 or glue gun)
(the motor can be mounted on either side of the part but don't forget to adjust the firmware correspondingly!)
then glue the endstop
X-idler
x1
x2 m3x8
x2
x1 m3x12
x2
x1
to add the idler bearing easily, start by pushing the bolt, add one washer, the bearing, turn it upside down and add the second washer by using it to push the bearing upward, to finish the bolt is screwed into the plastic and don't need a nut
after having checked that the smooth rods can slide without force in their holes, add an m3 nut in each, it will be trapped and will serve to hold two m3x8 bolt to lock the smooth-rods
After wiring, put the two x-ends in place (impregnate the printed parts with oil for better sliding) and add the smooth-rod without forgetting the three linear bearings.
Extruder-fan
(Optional)
x1
x1 m3x16
x1
If the bolt don't screw in the plastic, add a nut, but this one can be tricky to put in place.
Extruder-idler
For previous version using a geared PG35L see FoldaRap_PG35L
x1
x1
x1
x1
x2
x1 Nema14 (50cm)
x3
x1 (just one)
x2
x2
x2
start by adding the M5 nut
if the entrance seems a little rough, you can make a small chamfer
add the pneumatic fitting
then the idler bearing
add the drive-gear on the motor shaft (make a flat if there isn't one)
(or like that, either way are possibles)
Then add the motor and the extruder-idler on the x-end-idler (which is sandwiched between both parts)
and finish by the springs
Top-frame
x1
x1
x1
x1
x8
x8
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X-carriage
x1 (700mm, longest of the two belts)
Z-rods
x4 M5 nylon nut
x2 M5 threaded rod
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Great ! You are almost done !
Have a pause, you need to be relaxed for the next step, or you can also just head to the end :)
Hotend
x1 pneumatic-fitting
x1 heatsink-block
x1 nozzle
- cartridge heater
- thermistor 70cm 26awg
- fan prolongated to match 70cm
- see also the emaker huxley hotend
To prepare the heatsink you will need to remove some fins, drill a few holes and file a flat face (can be hand-made with a file, a dremel or machined)
remove the fins by twisting them with a plier (found it easier and less dangerous than using a flush side cutter)
then use a template to drill the holes (for 3mm bolts)
make the bottom of the heatsink flat (until no more black is apparent, like on the picture below) to make a good contact with the aluminium block that will be cooled
don't forget to put the ptfe tube in the pneumatic fitting, before adding the heatsink (the tube will fit snuggly between the fins)
add heatsink grease
press firmly
engage both bolts
finish to tighten them (dont require much force as the taped hole is in the aluminium block)
the resistance have been replaced by a cartridge heater, but the logic is the same
- don't forget to tighten the hotend while being heated to 200°C (later, once you will have wired everying on the electronic board)
x3
x3
- You may need to add a nut to each bolt if spacing is needed between the heatsink and the linear bearings
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Electronic Board
Previous instructions for the AzteegX1 / Melzi
x1
x1 board-mount
x2 m3x8
x2 m4x8
x2 t-nut
each board-mount is mounted to the board with a m3x8 and will use a t-nut to be held on the frame
you can put the board on the side you want but it is maybe better for the cable to put it near the y-motor (left of the picture)
Wiring
Now lets plug everything to the board !
The Minitronics_10 page is well documented and the wiring should be quite easy with the molex connectors.
- It seems to use the same voltage reference as for a pololu (so we need to tune them to 0.4V, 0.45V)
Order/lenght :
Endstops
x3
x1 m4x8
x1 t-nut
x2 zip-tie
people usually twist the wires of the endstop and motors, to reduce interferences and make them more tidy
endstops use the S and - pins of the connectors
Y-endstop
Z-endstop
X-endstop
(with 25cm blue wires for z-endstop, fix with an m3x8 or simply use a glue gun)
Motors
- Y-motor
- Z-motors
- X-motor
- Extruder-motor
Hotend(s)
- thermistor (blue 70cm)
- heater (red 70cm)
Fans
- hotend fan (red/black 60cm) : on the fan connector of the board or directly on the psu
- (optional) extruder-stepper fan: same
- (optional) printed-part cooling fan: on the "cooling fan" screw terminal (turned on by sending Mcode "M106 Sxxx" (xxx being between 0 and 255), turned off by "M107" but Slic3r automate this)
Bed
Finish by this one, as it is moving, the wires need to be above all the other wires.
- thermistor (blue 35cm)
- peltier
Voilà !
It may be a little messy at first but once finished everything is tidy and protected in the base of the machine :)
Tidying
- spiral wrapping band : for the wires that came out of the base (30cm left / 60cm right).
(image)
Y-axis
Bed-plate
If you have an aluminium heated bed look at this page : FoldaRap_Heated-Bed
x1
x3
x3
add the 3 countersunk m3x30 and lock them with m3 nut
Y-carriage
Other versions : FoldaRap1.0_y-carriage
x1
x3
x4
x1
x1 (600mm)
x2
x2
x2
x3
x3
hold the linear bearing in place with zip-ties
put the m3 nuts in the y-belt-clamp
clamp the belt in the middle of it's length, try to clamp it on the middle of the belt-clamp too
add springs on the bed's bolts
place the y-carriage
add the three m3 self locking nut (nylock)
tighten them a little (real leveling will be done just after)
Y-axis
x2
x1 (with 32cm green wires for y-endstop)
x6
Slide the smooth rods through one side
then through the Y-carriage
and finish on the other side
The Y-motor was centered by the rear-foot-right, to align the Y-idler too check that the carriage run smoothly. By moving it will tend to center the Y-idler (or look that it seems at an equal distance from each front-foot. Once satisfied you can lock the Y-idler in place.
Make a loop at each end of the belt with zip-ties (pay attention to the orientation of the zip-ties)
pass it through the y-idler
and y-motor
why the orientation is important
Tighten the belt by closing the loops with zip-ties, then trim everything (video of belt tensioning [1])
fix the Y-endstop on the smooth-rod with a zip-tie or glue it on the front-foot side
Tape (5-10 min)
Once the Y-axis is fitted it's easier to apply kapton (polyimide) or blue tape (outside masking tape, uv resistant and with acrylic adhesive)
<videoflash>MdCMMt7siy4|320|240</videoflash>
Leveling the bed and zeroing
The Z-zero is made when leveling the bed.
- Start by roughly leveling it
- then move the nozzle to the lowest point
- and adjust the 3 screws to level it regarding that height (by turning them until the homing move stop lowering the bed)
- repeat on each corners so the zero is exactly when the nozzle stop touching the bed (true for the four corners+center)
- I like to start with the X direction at the right bolt, then with the two at the left
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Here is a video to show what I mean by "the homing move stop lowering the bed"
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"Bad" (the bolts need to be tightened)
- Once the plan is set from left to right you can check front/end
- after that it's supposed to be leveled but may need few more tweaking for the right corners
Software side
- Skeinforge : you will only have to add a little offset (altitude), to have the desired height for the first layer, usually the same as your layer height.
- Slic3r : leave z-offset at 0, it will add one layer height automatically (you still may have to adjust it slightly to fine tune the Z-zero, depending on where your endstop have been glued).
Another advantage of that : by moving to the center of the bed from the zero height, the nozzle is also wiped by the side of the bed from any purged plastic ;-)
Go go go first print !!!
This article will probably help you along your first print :)
http://www.sarfata.org/3d-printing/2013/04/First-Steps-In-3D-Printing-With-Foldarap/
Also have a look at the User Manual
