FoldaRap1 Build Manual
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The build manual for the most recent version of the FoldaRap is here
- 1,5 mm hexagonal wrench (for the pulleys grub screw)
- 2 mm hexagonal wrench (for M3 counterksunk bolts and pneumatic fittings "MA-12-03-M5")
- 2,5 mm hexagonal wrench (for normal M3 cap-head bolts and the rounded M4 bolts used for the frame)
- little flat screwdriver (1,5mm) (for the board's screw terminals)
- Philips (PH2) or flat screwdriver (3mm) (for the psu's screw terminals)
You may need also :
- a 5,5mm flat spanner or a small pliers (for m3 nuts)
- something to cut wires, and strip them (knife, automatic striper, etc.)
- a lighter for the heat-shrink sleeves
- soldering iron (to eventually solder the endstops)
- small files (round, flat) to eventually ream the printed parts
- a glue gun (gluing the endstop on the printed part is easier/quicker than using bolts)
- a multimeter (to set the drivers current)
- 1 BOM
- 2 General tips
- 3 Base Frame
- 4 Z-axis
- 5 Underplate
- 6 X-axis
- 7 Great ! You are almost done !
- 8 Hotend
- 9 Electronic Board
- 10 Y-axis
- 11 Tape (5-10 min)
- 12 Leveling the bed and zeroing
- 13 Software side
- 14 Go go go first print !!!
5 20x20mm beam 6mm slot 200mm - Motedis or see Aluminium profile 6 20x20mm beam 6mm slot 300mm 50 M4 T-nut for 6mm slot - Motedis
50 m4x8 round head bolt - Fix'n Vis Round Head Bolt 2 m3x4 / Hotend-heatsink(2) Fix'n Vis Bolts 15 m3x8 bolt / Z-motors (4), Y-motor (3), X-end-idler (2), psu (2), male plug (2), board-mount (2) 2 m3x10 bolt / hotend (2) 6 m3x12 bolt / X-idler (1), extruder (3), Y-belt-clamp (2) 4 m3x16 bolt / X-motor (3), extruder-fan (1) 7 m3x20 bolt / X-carriage (3), hinges (2), Y-idler (1), extruder (1) 3 m3x30 countersunk bolt / bed (3) 2 m3x35 / extruder (2) 19 m3 nut / hinges (2), X-carriage (3), X-idler (2), extruder-fan (1), bed (3), Y-belt-clamp (2), extruder (2), plug (2), psu (2) - Fix'n Vis Nuts 3 m3 nylock nut / bed leveling (3) nylock nut 5 m5 nut / extruder pneumatic fitting (1), Z-rod (4) (for the Z nylon nuts can be slightly better) 11 m3 washer / X-motor (3), X-idler (2), extruder (2), Y-idler (2), Y-belt-clamp (2) - Fix'n Vis washer 2 230mm threaded rod m5 - Fix'n Vis
2 extruder spring - RS751483 or see Springs 3 bed spring - RS 751455 or RS 751607 1m spiral wrapping band for tidying the wires - RS227874 7 faston ferule - Radiospare to crimp the cable for the plug and the switch
2 polymer coupling - See this thread (ebay / emakershop) 6 linear bearing, LM6UU or if you can Igus RJMP-01-06 - See Bearing 4 300mm smooth rod 6mm - (can be salvaged from usual scanners and printers) or see Smooth rod 4 603zz bearings / X-idler (1), Y-idler (2), extruder-idler (1) - See Bearing 1 600mm T2.5 belt 5-6mm wide - RepRapWorld or see Belts_and_Pulleys 1 700mm T2.5 belt 5-6mm wide 2 T2.5 pulleys - Paoparts or see Belts_and_Pulleys 1 PTFE Tubing for bowden extruder (2mm inner diam. and 3mm outer), 300mm long - See Bowden 2 Pneumatic fittings for 3mm tubing, with M5 thread - See Bowden or emakershop / I'm using the MA12-03-M5 but others can work 1 direct drive gear - Maritime-models (see Drive-gear) 1 bed plate 4mm thick 1 roll of kapton - See Kapton Tape#Vendors 20-30 zip-ties
5 nema14 stepper motors -  3 miniature microswitch endstop 20mm -  1 standard male plug IEC C13 C14 - RS 5392045 1 standard female cable - EU/C13 - UK RS6266739 / US RS7316163 1 big blue switch - RS 5287858 1 RepRappro Hotend - emaker 1 40x40mm heatsink - RS 6744769 to make a more compact hotend 1-2 small fan (40 x 40 x 10 mm), for the hotend (can be bought with one) and the extruder motor - RepRapWorld or see Fan 1 100k thermistors - Mouser 0.6 m of 18AWG wire (200mm red, 200m black, 150mm green) for the switch/plug/psu - Read also WiresAndConnectors 10 m of 26AWG (3.6m red, 3.2m green, 2.0m blue) for the sensors and fans
1 Minitronic board  1 USB cable A to B  1 12V power supply : 5A or 10A or  (for heated bed)
1 Melzi board ,  1 usb to mini-usb cable -  1 12V power supply : 5A or 10A or  (for heated bed)
1 Rumba + 6 stepper drivers 1 usb to mini-usb cable -  1 12V power supply : 20A (RS 7066316 100*150*35mm)
Laser cut parts
1 electronic under-plate 3-4mm thick 1 bed-plate 4-6mm thick (acrylic or aluminium) 1 Y-carriage 1 reprap.org plate 160x20mm, 2-4mm thick (+2 T-nut and M4x8) - optional but make a nice reference to the wiki :)
These parts can also be made by hand with simple tools.
Printed parts (total : 21)
See also the github repo
foot front left foot front right foot rear left foot rear right hinge-inner left hinge-inner right hinge-outer left hinge-outer right z-motor-bracket left z-motor-bracket right z-top left z-top right y-motor y-idler y-belt clamp x-end-motor x-end-idler x-carriage extruder-idler board mount (x2)
For the aluminium heated bed add :
1 aluminium bed plate (4mm thick) 1 100k thermistors - Mouser 60cm of 26 AWG wire (blue) 2 ferule 0,5mm² 1 peltier element 12708 (40x40mm is enough) - ebay
- Read the whole manual once or twice before starting, to get an overview of the build
- Basically we have a main frame and several sub-assemblies, some can be done in parallel : gather your friends and establish a record for minimum building time ! (Actual best record : 4 hours)
- Work on a cutting mat if you have one, it will protect your table plus they often show a millimetre grid that will be useful to check the bolts length (with some experience you will recognize them just by looking or holding one).
- Place you mouse over a picture in a list if you wonder what part it is
- In case of doubt, don't hesitate to have a look at the 3d model in Sketchup (before/during the build), even if about a next version of the machine it will show you the folded/unfolded state of the machine and you can play around with it :)
Ok let's start It should take approximately 12 hours to put everything together. From step 1 to 4 : 2-4 hours
Here is a timelapse overview from Gert G. : google drive link
Know the parts
Firstly, have a look at all the part and learn what everything is.
How to insert a T-nut
1 red and 1 black wire 18AWG of 10cm, one end with ferule, the other end just stripped (blue-switch Live/Neutral to power supply Live/Neutral). You may need longer wires depending of the power supply and it's position on the underplate, it may be good to shorten them later, once the psu is in place.
A part of the wiring depend of the combination of electronic board and power supply, for other version : FoldaRap_power-supplies
Z-Left / Z-Right
Hinge principle :
- +vinyl coupling x2
Different kind of power supply have been used in FoldaRap builds, if you don't recognize yours look at this page : FoldaRap power-supplies
Anyway, the principle is always 1) bolt the power supply on the plate, 2) then the plate on the base of the frame
- Now you can push the hinge against the plate and lock the two Z at right angle with the frame
The holes for mounting the motor are wide in order to be able to use them for adding tension on the X belt. Thus mount the motor as close as possible to the extrusion side in order to be able to push the motor the other way arround at the tensionning step.
After wiring, put the two x-ends in place (impregnate the printed parts with oil for better sliding) and add the smooth-rod without forgetting the three linear bearings.
For previous version using a geared PG35L see FoldaRap_PG35L
- Now you can add some tension to the x-belt
Great ! You are almost done !
Have a pause, you need to be relaxed for the next step, or you can also just head to the end :)
- cartridge heater
- thermistor 70cm 26awg
- fan prolongated to match 70cm
- see also the emaker huxley hotend
- don't forget to tighten the hotend while being heated to 200°C (later, once you will have wired everying on the electronic board)
- You may need to add a nut to each bolt if spacing is needed between the heatsink and the linear bearings
Now lets plug everything to the board !
The Minitronics_10 page is well documented and the wiring should be quite easy with the molex connectors.
- It seems to use the same voltage reference as for a pololu (so we need to tune them to 0.4V, 0.45V)
- thermistor (blue 70cm)
- heater (red 70cm)
- hotend fan (red/black 60cm) : on the fan connector of the board or directly on the psu
- (optional) extruder-stepper fan: same
- (optional) printed-part cooling fan: on the "cooling fan" screw terminal (turned on by sending Mcode "M106 Sxxx" (xxx being between 0 and 255), turned off by "M107" but Slic3r automate this)
Finish by this one, as it is moving, the wires need to be above all the other wires.
- thermistor (blue 35cm)
- spiral wrapping band : for the wires that came out of the base (30cm left / 60cm right).
If you have an aluminium heated bed look at this page : FoldaRap_Heated-Bed
Other versions : FoldaRap1.0_y-carriage
Tighten the belt by closing the loops with zip-ties, then trim everything (video of belt tensioning )
Tape (5-10 min)
Once the Y-axis is fitted it's easier to apply kapton (polyimide) or blue tape (outside masking tape, uv resistant and with acrylic adhesive)
Leveling the bed and zeroing
The Z-zero is made when leveling the bed.
- Start by roughly leveling it
- then move the nozzle to the lowest point
- and adjust the 3 screws to level it regarding that height (by turning them until the homing move stop lowering the bed)
- repeat on each corners so the zero is exactly when the nozzle stop touching the bed (true for the four corners+center)
- I like to start with the X direction at the right bolt, then with the two at the left
Here is a video to show what I mean by "the homing move stop lowering the bed"
"Bad" (the bolts need to be tightened)
- Once the plan is set from left to right you can check front/end
- after that it's supposed to be leveled but may need few more tweaking for the right corners
- Skeinforge : you will only have to add a little offset (altitude), to have the desired height for the first layer, usually the same as your layer height.
- Slic3r : leave z-offset at 0, it will add one layer height automatically (you still may have to adjust it slightly to fine tune the Z-zero, depending on where your endstop have been glued).
Another advantage of that : by moving to the center of the bed from the zero height, the nozzle is also wiped by the side of the bed from any purged plastic ;-)
Go go go first print !!!
This article will probably help you along your first print :)
Also have a look at the User Manual