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3Drag printer

Release status: active

3D Printer1.jpg
Release Version 1.0
CAD Models
External Link

We can finally release our mechanical interpretation of a RepRap. The electronics(3Drag_controller) are fully compatible with the firmware and software from RepRap world. This will allow you to upgrade your printer with the new firmware and software solutions that gradually people will be able to create to make 3D printing easier and more intuitive.

The Marlin firmware is provided configured to reflect: the mechanical characteristics of the belts, the position and the direction of rotation of the motors and the connection type of the of Home (0,0,0) positions detection microswitches. Using Arduino IDE, or Visual Studio for later versions, you can reprogram the board with all the simplicity of a single click of the mouse.

Marlin, moreover, can be reconfigured in a simple manner by intervening in the source file “Configuration.h” which contains all the functional parameters and mechanics characteristics. To make the printing and adjustment simpler and more repeatable we have combined the microswitch a series of screws which allow fine adjustment of each zero position. This is not an automatic adjustment, but once you have adjusted the screws in the correct way, you will have a steady and reliable positioning.

This printer kit was also marketed by Velleman as the K8200.


Manufacturer Futura Elettronica /OpenElectronics
Model Mendel
Technology FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication)/Thermoplastic extrusion
Occasional oiling = €5.
Size 600 mm (W) x 430 mm (D) x 590 mm (H) 23” (W) x 16” (D) x 23” (H)
Weight 9.0 kg 19.84lbs
Build Envelope 200 mm (W) x 200 mm (D) x 200 mm (H) 8” (W) x 8” (D) x 8” (H)
Materials PLA, ABS & more. Uses ø 3 mm filament. PLA, ABS & more. Uses ø 1/8” filament.
Nominal Speed 120mm/sec
Max Speed 200 mm/s (depending on the object to be printed)
Accuracy Diameter of nozzle 0.5 mm, - X e Y: 0,015 mm - Z: 0,39 µ Diameter of nozzle 0.020”, - X e Y: 0,00059" - Z: 0,39 µ
Linear ball bearings 8 and 10 mm 0,31" and 0,39"
Power supply: 15 V / 3 A max
Comunication FTDI USB 2.0 to Serial
Movement 4 NEMA 17 stepper motors

Where to buy

You can find the printer in our STORE

Complete kit and parts available here STORE US

More info on our BLOG


More photo






Here you can find all DXF files to make the parts of 3DRAG. Please use Delrin material.



As noted above the firmware delivered is Marlin. A configuration has been prepared in the example configurations under Velleman/K8200. The later versions are compiled using Visual Studio as noted on the Marlin website, and support the following confgurations

Display/Controller/SD Card

Z Axis

  • Original Z Axis
  • VM8204 Z Axis upgrade

Assembly sequence

Tools required for the mechanical assembly mechanical


  • Vernier caliper (preferably digital)
  • Socket wrench (13 and 7 mm)
  • Two 13mm wrenches
  • 5.5 - 6 - 7 - 8 mm wrench
  • Allen keys measuring 1,5 - 2 - 2.5 - 3 – 4 - 5
  • A Screwdriver with 3 mm blade
  • Phillips screwdriver PH 0
  • Try square 100 mm
  • Hammer 100 g
  • A flexible meter
  • Squared 3 x 3 mm rasp
  • Cutter

Equipment needed for the electrical wiring


  • 48 W Soldering iron
  • Tin Ø 1 mm
  • Electrician's Scissors
  • Cutting Nippers for electronics
  • Cutter
  • Stripper
  • Flexible Meter
  • Allen key 2.5 mm
  • Masking tape
  • A pen
  • A heat gun

Coil stand assembly

In the photo below you can see all the elements needed for the assembly phase.


Insert the following elements (in this sequence) starting from the left of the threaded rod:

  • 2 nuts
  • 1 large washer
  • 1 small washer
  • 2 bearing
  • 1 small washer
  • 1 large washer
  • 2 dices
  • 1 small washer
  • The stand bracket oriented as shown in Photo
  • 1 small washer and 1 nut

Tighten all nuts using the two 13 mm wrenches. Insert the following elements (in this sequence) starting from the right of the threaded rod:

  • 2 dices
  • 1 large washer
  • 1 small washer
  • 2 bearings
  • 1 small washer
  • 1 large washer and 1 nut


Tighten all nuts using the keys 13 mm wrenches in order to have 88 mm of inner distance between the two large washers.

Axis assembly

X axis



Loosely place screws (don't tighten them definitely).


Mounting of the four 10 sleeves on axis X.



Mounting of the X run limit.






Y axis assembly

Mounting of the Y run limit.


Fixing the four the 8 sleeves on the Y plate, don't tighten the screws.



Set holder for the 8 bars on Y.


Insert five M6 screws with washers and nuts.



Put the M5 nut on the screw with the countersunk head with the washer inserted into the lateral stand.



Tighten the three screws holding the lateral stand in line with the aluminum base. Take two bars (Ø 8, length 325 mm) from the bars set. Wipe bars with a tissue paper and lubricate with fine oil.


Insert the rods into the holes of the side stands by pushing them to the bottom and oil the Y carriage sleeves with fine oil.



Insert the Y carriage keeping into account end of run limit: ensure that the carriage runs well on the bars.


Mount the other two lateral stands, put them in squaring with the plate and tighten the screws.



Take a motor and fix the relative stand ( with M3 screws and washers) directing the cables.


Place the motor in correspondence to the M printed on the plate, using two M4 screws, a lock washer and a nut. The motor must be positioned with a 90° angle with respect to the bars.



Take the Y carriage Belt set .


Mount the pulley on the motor shaft and tighten the screw.


Attach the L-bracket on the lateral stand.


Thread the following sequence of components on the M5 screw:

  • 1 M5 x 20 flat washer
  • 3 M5 x 10 flat washers
  • 1 flat (DELRIN) 45 ° beveled washer putting the bevel on the opposite side of the screw head
  • 1 M5 x 16 x 5 bearing
  • 1 flat (DELRIN) 45 ° beveled washer putting the bevel on the side of the bearing
  • 3 M5 x 10 flat washers
  • 1 M5 x 20 flat washer

Now insert the pulley that has been composed in the "L" bracket and then insert a washer and nut. The pulley axis must be able to tilt to facilitate later insertion of the belt, so do not tighten the nuts in a definitive way.



Now join the belt holder to the corresponding block through the countersunk screw without tightening it too much. Place the belt at the center of the block before tightening the screw. Move the strap holder to one end, then tighten the Y carriage sleeves screws gradually until you blocking them. Be sure that, at the end of the operation the carriage can move as freely as possible. Attach the strap holder to the Y without tightening the screw.


Take the Switch Y set and mount the microswitch on the stand without tightening the screws.



Bring the stand to the plate to check the alignment between the microswitch lever and the the end of plate screw.


Attach the bracket to the plate.



Note: it's is absolutely necessary to use spray grease across the rod in order to facilitate a smooth movement of the "Z" axis.

Mounting the base frame with pins

Take two 45 cm and two 41.6 cm squared aluminum profiles: remove any irregularities at the ends .


Insert two corners on the 41.6 cm profiles and merge them to a 45 cm profile to form a U.



The profiles should be perfectly joined together by tightening the screws.


Take the pins and squared nuts sets.


Insert the screws in the plastic stands and align the dices.



Attach the four stands on the sides.



Tighten the 4 pins in the stands.





Take two Ø 10 , 45 cm length ground bars, clean them up and oil them with light oil.


Insert the bars in the sleeves of the carriage after having oiled them carefully and having checked the scrolling movement.



Take the 10 mm guiding stands for the X axis and apply them to the bars, holding the recess of the screws facing the carriage, and push them the end of the bar.



Add the screws and the nuts.


Insert the stands, including the nuts, of the first bar in the ad hoc space in the U-frame assembled earlier. Before proceeding with the insertion of the second bar you need to to insert a nut in the left slot. and two nuts into the slot on the right.



Be careful not to do tighten too much in order to prevent bars deformation . Insert the second bar in the slots.


Place the stands about 3-4 mm from the corners.


Take two angular profiles and a 45 cm long bar and close the base of the frame.


Slightly loosen the sleeves screws of the X carriage.


Place one bar 10 stand to about 3 mm from the corner, then tighten the two screws.


Measure the distance of the bar from the frame to position it in a perfectly parallel fashion and tighten the screws of the stand.


Place the carriage so that the lateral stand is parallel to the frame profile (use a gauge for this). Provisionally tighten the screws of the sleeves making sure that they don't move away from the center of the carriage base.



Move the carriage to an end and tighten the two screws of the stand of the Ø 10 bar that is on the same side. Move the carriage to the other side and repeat the same operation.


Hold with the sleeves with two fingers and tighten the screws to lock them on the plate X. Tighten the screws of the other two sleeves permanently. This operation is of fundamental importance for the functioning of the printer: it is necessary that the carriage moves freely on the guides. Ensure that all screws are tight.


Move the Y carriage back and forth towards the ends, making sure that the sleeves above do not collide with those of the lower part.


Mounting the left side of the frame

Take an aluminum profile that is 50 cm long and two angular profiles.


Insert the bar and the angle at the base of the frame on the Y motor side.



Fix the profile at 14.5 cm from the base of the frame by tightening the screws.



Mounting the Z carriage on the left side

Take 10 Z bars Stands set, 4 square nuts and 2 Ø 10 bars that are 34.5 cm long.


Insert the screws in the stands and align the nuts.


Wipe the bars with a tissue paper, lubricate them with light oil and insert one end into the hole of the stand using a small hammer.



Attach the bar equipped stands on the lateral side by sliding the square nuts in the slots of the aluminum profiles.


Let the stands place on the corners and align the screws.


Take Z Carriage Set and the Extruder Arm Stand Set.


In order to obtain an optimum flow, we recommend oiling the sleeves with sewing machines oil, and, after having placed them on the Ø 10 bars, slide up and down repeatedly until the scrolling does not become optimal.



Attach the bracket to the plate engraved with the 3DRAG logo using two M4 countersunk head screws,

plus two geared washers and two M4 nuts. Align the top with the plate.




Place a flat washer on each M4 x 45 screw .


Overlap the two plates by matching the 8 holes.


Insert the 8 screws into the holes and tighten them with flat washers and self-locking nuts without completely tightening.


Insert the stand equipped sleeves between the 2 plates letting the 2 screws in the corresponding channels.



Insert the Z carriage on the side shoulder keeping the 3DRAG engraved side facing the X carriage

and inserting the bars into the sleeves.


Insert the two bar stands on the shoulder with the help of a small hammer. The two stands must be positioned at the same height. Tighten the screws of the stands and check with a gauge that they are parallel.


Tighten the 8 nuts of the Z carriage enough to avoid that the stands go out from the plates .

Raise and lower the carriage to allow the sleeves to align. Further tighten the nuts and then try to move the carriage in order to verify that the scrolling is fluid. Repeat until full tightening of the nuts.




Note 1 For proper operation of the printer the carriage must flow freely. Note 2 The sleeves stands shall be placed on the fixing screws and Seeger rings should rest on top of the stand.


Mounting of the right side with the guide

Take the 50 cm long aluminum frame, and two corners. Remove any irregularity from the end of the profile.


Insert the two angular on the profile and then on the right side of the base of the frame. Place the shoulder at 14.5 cm from the end. Carefully tighten the screws of the corner (do not over tighten)



Take the " Frontal 8 Z bar stand Set " and "Front sleeve Z Set ", the 30 cm length Ø 8 mm bar, and two square nuts.


Insert the long screws into the bar stands, then align the square nut.


Insert, using a hammer, one end of the bar into the hole in the stand.


Apply the bar equipped stand to the right shoulder by sliding the nut in its slot securing it at 6 cm from the base.



Clean and lubricate with light oil from the Ø 8 mm bar.


Lubricate the front Z sleeve and insert it on the bar. Slide it up and down few times. Scrolling should be fluid and without any friction.


Insert the shoulder and the second bar equipped stand and, with the help of a hammer, lock it on the bar. Tighten the screw.




Mounting the arm ready for the extruder

Take the aluminum frame long 39.5 cm, plus two angular profiles, four square nuts and the "fan mounting bracket"



Remove any irregularity from the aluminum profiles. Insert the two angles at the end of the aluminum profile.


Insert two square nuts in the same hole at the bottom of the angles, plus the fan mounting bracket: a square nut in the lateral slot and the remaining one in the opposite one.




Insert the frontal part of the arm in the Z front stand fork, theninsert the angular on the opposite side of the extruder arm bracket mounted on the Z carriage.



Set the angle to about 0.5 cm.


Hold your arm toward the Z carriage, then block the angles carefully tightening the screws.


Position upper crosspiece of the frame

Take the 45 cm aluminum profile and four angles. Remove any burrs of aluminum at the ends.


Insert the two angular profiles in opposite positions on both ends of the profile without blocking.


Insert horizontally between the two shoulders: the aluminum profile (by sliding in the slots) the nuts of the angular profiles and pushing simultaneously down the 2 ends.


Tighten the screws gradually being sure that the shoulders are in contact with the ends of the profile inserted and that the angular profiles are aligned with them



With the help of a screwdriver, place the dice that are present in the extruder arm slots behind the holes in the front sleeve stand.


Insert the countersunk screws supplied into the holes, point them, then make sure that the carriage can move freely. If the carriage runs freely tighten the screws.


Mounting the motor and threaded rod Z

Take the "Z advancement Set", one motor and the squared nuts.



Insert two nuts in the outer slot of the of the Z carriage shoulder.


Place the "L" bracket in the lower part of the shoulder holding the upper hole in front of the second nut previously inserted. Insert a M5 x 12 screw into the hole in then in the nut with also a geared M5 washer. Perform the same operation with the second screw. Screws should not be tightened.


Place the motor under the bracket with the cables facing the frame. Fasten the motor with two M3 x 8 screws along with with geared washer M3. Raise the motor until it is aligned with the bottom of the frame and then just tighten the top screw of the bracket, using an allen key with sphere head. Note: The motor must be perfectly perpendicular to the frame.



Screw a nut on one end of the threaded rod, then place a sequence of an M8 flat washer, a geared M8 washer, an M8 flat washer and finally, a joint that to be aimed at the screw. Hand tighten the nut against the aluminum joint.



Insert the joint on the motor shaft after loosening enough the grain.



The joint must be inserted so that 1 cm of the shaft remains visible. Tighten the bolt by tightening the grain being careful not to overdo it.


Take the "Spira Set"



Insert the threaded rod in the lower spiral body with the hexagon shaped hollow facing up.


Screw the M8 nut on the bar for about 12 cm, then insert it in the hexagonal slot in the spiral body that was previously entered.



align the two M5 x 20 screws along with flat washers in Z plate of the carriage, insert the bar on the top of the spiral, insert the screws into the hollow of the spiral body bottom, then add the two plastic elements with the two countersunk screws.





Use two 13 mm wrench to tighten the M8 nut against the joint.


With a 13 mm wrench, hold the joint in place and insert the end of threaded rod, a self-locking nut, then screw it for about 30mm. Place a M8 flat washer on the threaded rod.


Insert in the bearing stand a countersunk screw and then aim a square nut that must be tucked into the outer slot of the shoulder.



Align the bearing stand with the stands of the Z carriage guides.


Hold the aluminum joint with a 13 mm wrench and unscrew the nut until the washer stands on the bottom of the bearing. Insert the an M8 flat washer on the threaded rod, then tighten the fixing screw on the bearing stand than screw a self blocking M8 nut on the bearing. Note: The threaded rod should have a little room to move in the bearing. Place the spiral body at the center of the threaded rod, then lock it by tightening the screws. Loosen the two fixing screws of the "Z" motor bracket to allow the alignment of the threaded rod and tighten the screws again.



Mounting the motor and X-axis pulley

Take a motor, the " X carriage BELT SET " and the " X BELT fixing SET ".

DSC 4443.jpg

DSC 4444.jpg

Take the four M4 x 16 screws in the " X BELT fixing SET " an put a geared M4 washer on top of them.

DSC 4445.jpg

Lay the printer on a side, and then fix two belt holders on the "X"carriage Corresponding to the 3rd and 4th hole from the center. Allow them to be lifted from the plate, so as to leave enough room to let the belt pass trough.

DSC 4449.jpg

Take the "L" 30 x 30 stand and insert one M5 x 12 screw into the hole at the center along with a geared washer. Temporarily secure this to the frame. Note: The final position will be indicated in the following steps.

DSC 4450.jpg

On the M5 x 25 screw insert, in a sequence, the following components :

  • One flat M5x 20 washer
  • three M5 x 10 flat washers
  • one DELRIN flat washer beveled at 45°, placing the bevel facing the opposite side respect to the the screw head
  • a M5 x 16 x 5 bearing
  • one flat (DELRIN) washer beveled at 45 ° with the bevel facing the bearing
  • three M5 x 10 flat washers
  • one M5 x 20 flat washer

DSC 4454.jpg

Place the printer on its side. Insert the projecting part of the screw into the hole of the "L" bracket previously laid down, and then tighten the nut.

DSC 4456.jpg

Bring the "X" carriage to the pulley, and then move the bracket along the frame to align the bearing with the center of the belt holder mounted before.

DSC 4457.jpg

Tighten the fixing screw by holding the "L" bracket perpendicular to the frame.

DSC 4459.jpg

Insert in "L" the bracket (30 x 18 mm) an M5 x 12 screw complete with geared washer.

DSC 4461.jpg

Align the screw with the previously inserted nut into the slot of the chassis and then partially tighten. Perform the same operation on the other screw.

DSC 4462.jpg

Take the motor and apply the geared pulley on its shaft after loosening its grain. Note: the pulley must be aligned with the bar.

DSC 4463.jpg

Lay the front part of the motor to the relative "L" bracket holding the wires facing down. Fasten the motor to the bracket with 2 M3 x 8 screws complete with M3 geared washers.

DSC 4464.jpg

Place the printer on its side. Move the carriage towards the X motor, then align the center of the pulley with the center of the the strap holders moving the motor bracket along the frame. Note: The motor bracket should be perpendicular to the frame (check the alignment).

DSC 4465.jpg

DSC 4466.jpg

Secure one end of the strap with the strap holder facing the motor.

DSC 4467.jpg

Route the belt around the geared pulley between the two "Y" axis belts and around the pulley with a bearing, then attach the other end with the second strap holder holding the carriage to the left. Note: The belt must be aligned with the two pulleys.

DSC 4470.jpg

Mounting the extruder and placing it on the arm

The photo below shows all the tools needed for the assembly:

  • Gauge
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • 3.5 mm drill
  • Allen keys: 5, 6 and 7 mm
  • Wrenches: 5, 6, 7, 13 mm
  • a segment of PLA or ABS printing filament.


The photo below shows all the elements needed


Use the 3.5 mm drill to align the two pieces. The top piece will have to be oriented in such a way as to keep the cut as shown, then tighten the four screws.



Combine the extruder bracket to the Delrin piece using the 4 3MA screws: do not tighten too much.


Insert the two screws with washer so as to join the front and back plates to the base of the extruder. On the opposite side insert a washer and a nut that just needs to be aligned.




Insert the 8 mm nut in the spring stand and tighten the thumbscrew on the other side. Insert a self-locking 8 mm nut screwing with a 8 wrench, leaving 5 mm of the screw out.



Insert the spring stand between the back plate and front.


Tighten the nuts to the two screws with the help of a 7 mm wrench and the Allen key .


Insert the bearing in the Delrin piece called "bearing stand", enter the two countersunk screws from the side where it has the Delrin flare and screw them with a suitable Allen key.



Insert the bearing between the two aluminum plates and secure them by inserting a screw with the washer from the front side plate. Continue inserting the washer and the nut but don't screw it completely.



Tighten the four screws that hold the bracket to the extruder base in Delrin. Tighten all the way down the three nuts that hold the two plates side using the 7 wrench. Put a washer on the screw and then insert the spring in the bearing housing.


Insert the spring into the throttle screw and secure it by inserting the two screws as in the photo and secure with the nuts (not too tight)



Insert the Delrin "Top rail" part.



Hold the piece down, tighten the nuts.


Insert the screw into the big gear and, on the other side, insert two 8 washers and the bearing.



Insert the screw making sure that the bearing fits the seat in the aluminum front plate. Insert one bearing from the rear side plate, add a washer and finally the nut, tighten everything with a 13 wrench so that the gear does not wobble.


Insert the screw to the last hole provided in the face plate and tighten the nut.




Insert the small gear on the motor shaft until the limit is reached with the help of the hexagon.



Insert the small grain into gear and screw it completely.


Now bring the motor to the front bracket and make sure that the two gears fit together. Insert the three 3MA screws in the slots of the plate and fix them to the motor without tightening. Bring the two gears in such a way that their movement is not too strained, and tighten the three screws. The wires of the motor must not be shorted at this stage.


Tighten the two 22mm turrets at the base of the extruder with the help of the 5 wrench.


Put the PLA or ABS filament and turning the gear manually verify that the filament comes out from underneath .


Turn the thumbscrew to determine the force applied to the extrusion of the wire.


extruder mounting arm and mounting heater extruder

Mounting the extruder to the arm


Move the two square nuts previously inserted towards the center of the extruder arm.


Insert the two M5 x 12 screws into the holes of the bracket, complete with geared washers, head facing down. Put a flat washer on the two M5 x 15 screws.



Lay the extruder bracket under the arm matching the two screws with two square nuts present in it.


Tighten the screws by hand, then move the extruder along the arm so that the driving screw is at 21 cm from the plate of the "Z" carriage.


Let the entire rear of the extruder motor stand on the arm, and tighten the two screws.


ASSEMBLY of the Extruder HEATER Take the set "EXTRUDER HEATING SECTION”, insert the cylindrical part of the white heater in the circular seat under the extruder body.


Orient the heater wires to the rear of the printer.


Insert the two supplied M3 x 25 screws complete with M3 x 7 flat washers in the holes of the light brown element holding their head facing down and tighten alternately to the spacers up to the plastic element is fixed, making sure that it remains horizontal. Do not overtighten the screws in order to avoid damage the plastic element.





Application of the printer plate

Elements needed for the assembly:

  • Phillips screwdriver
  • 6 wrench
  • Allen key 2.5 mm
  • 1 aluminum plate 2 X 215 x 215 mm
  • 4 M4 x 20 countersunk screws
  • 8 knobs geared with M4 nut
  • 4 M4 nuts, 8 M4 geared washers.
  • 1 epoxy glass plate 205 x 205 mm
  • 4 countersunk head Phillips screws M3 x 8
  • 4 geared M3 washers
  • 4 M3 nuts

Insert the 4 M4 x 20 countersunk head screws in the aluminum plate from the side of the countersink. Insert the four M3 geared washers and the four M3 nuts on the screws and tighten with the help of the 2,5 Allen key and the 6 wrench. Place the epoxy on the aluminum plate and align the holes in which to insert the four M3 x 8 Phillips screws. Insert the four geared washers and the four M3 nuts and tighten them with the screwdriver and 6 wrench. Tighten the four geared knobs on the M4 x 20 countersunk head screws until leaving 1 mm which is used for the alignment of the plate. Insert the heads of the screws into the screw holes in the base of the X carriage. Enter the 4 geared knobs and the 4 washers in the remaining screws.

Take the "BOARD FIXING" set and the coil stand previously assembled. Insert the two "T" plastic stands in the seat outside of the right shoulder of the frame that will be used later for securing the circuit board to the frame. Insert the coil stand into the shoulder hole and tighten the screws. Take the "FRAME PLUGS" set and enter the six plastic plugs in the open ends of the frame.

Mounting the Fan

Take the "FAN SET".

Unscrew the nut and washer and remove them from the diverter. remove the flat washer, fold it and put it back on the diverter. Insert the diverter into the first hole of the bracket, then lock it with washer and nut.

Insert an M4 x 16 screw into the "fan stand" hole on extruder the arm complete with M4 x 10 flat washer

Insert the projection of the screw in the second hole of the bracket and secure with lock washer and an M4 nut. Fold the metal bracket with your fingers.


Insert the M3 x 20 screw complete with a M3 x 7 flat washer into the hole of the fan, the one next to the wires. Insert the projecting part of the screw into the hole at the end of the bracket. The fan must be oriented in such a way that the air flow is directed towards the nozzle of the extruder.



Move the fan stand to the extruder and lock it by tightening the two screws.





Mounting electronic card and limit microswitch Z

Take the "ELECTRONICS SET " and take the board with the two insulating plastic washers.


Insert the projecting part of the two plastic washers in the two holes on the reverse side of the card to the USB connector.

Take the two M3 x 16 screws of the “MOUNTING BOARD SET " and insert them into the holes with the plastic washers. Insert a lock washer on each screw and a M3 nut placing them close to the plastic washer (loosely).

Point the two screws in the "T" plastic nuts in the hole of the frame. Tighten the screws to lock the frame and then tighten the nuts to secure the board.



Take the "SET MICROSWITCH Z" and "SET LIMIT Z", insert a M3 nut in the plastic stand.



Insert a M4 x 16 screw with geared washer into the hole on the "Z" carriage and screw it into the plastic stand.



Screw an M3 x 50 screw on a nut M3 and subsequently insert a washer. Tighten the screw in the plastic stand holding the head facing down. Tighten the nut against the bracket.


Insert a M3 x 12 screw with an M3 geared washer into the hole of the microswitch.


Insert a M3 geared washer and a M3 flat washer on the projecting part of the screw, then attach the microswitch in the horizontal position to the chassis.



Cables must be twisted to the Z axis


Cut the cables just twisted at a length of approximately 8 cm


Cut about 5 inches heat shrinkable sheath Ø 3.2 mm. Insert the wires into the sheath


Strip and weld the wires


Take a 4 x 0.5 mm ² cable and (about 90 cm long), peel it for 3 cm.


Peel 2 mm and weld the wires.


Insert 3 cm of heat shrinking Ø 6.4 mm sheat on the cable, and then insert the four wires four tubes of heat shrink sheath Ø 2.4 mm and 1.5 cm long.


Join the wires of the 4 x 0.5 mm ² cable with the Z-axis motor wires according to the wiring diagram by soldering avoiding overheating of the ​​heat shrink tubing.


Use an hairdryer to heat the ​​heat shrink tubing.


Attach the cable to the frame with four long straps (don’t tight in a definitive manner) bringing the end to the card.



The 4 x 0.5 sq. mm cable must 10 cm longer respect to the card.


Identify with “MZ” the cable using tape and pen.


Route through the straps: the MZ cable, a 2 x 0,2 mm ² (blue/red) cable 105 cm long starting from the Z-axis microswitch up to the board.


Strip back about 2 cm of cable, on the microswitch side.


Cut about 2 cm of heat shrink tubing with a diameter of 3.2 mm and insert it into 2 x 0.2 sq. mm. cable


Strip and weld the wire.


Weld the two terminals located at the end of the microswitch Z.


Enter two Ø 3.2 mm, 1 cm long heat shrink tubing on the two conductors of 2 x 0.2 sq. mm cable. Solder the wire to the terminals of the microswitch Z


Use the hairdryer to heat the heat shrink tubing.


Combine, close to the motor, the two wires with a short strap. Lay the two cables along the chassis locking them in place with previously positioned clamps ensuring that the two clamps applied to the profile (adjacent to the Y motor) do not interfere with the carriage cables.



Label the 2 x 0.2 mm ² cable with the name Z HOME


Twist the wires of the Y motor so that they remain togheter.



Cut the four wires to the same length, then strip them and weld them.




Route the four cables under the Y bar and fasten them to the X carriage plate with a small clamp, leaving it a bit loose.



Cut 33 cm of 4 x 0.5 mm ² cable, strip it to approximately 8.5 cm and identify it with the MY name from the opposite side of the stripping.



Strip at about 2 mm and solder the wires. Thread about 3 inches of a heat shrink tubing with a diameter of 6.4 mm on the cable.




Insert heat shrinkable tubing (1 cm long, Ø 2.4 mm), on the four conductors. Join the wires of the 4 x 0.5 mm ² cable by soldering them with those of the Y motor as per the wiring diagram.


Cover the welds with heat shrink tubing, then heat until complete shrinkage.


Take the 90 cm ultra-flexible 2 x 0.2 sq. mm cable to and and strip it 3 cm on one side.


Cut with a cutter the copper braid and the cotton wires.


Thread 2 cm of Ø 6,4 mm heat shrink tubing on the cable and heat it.


Strip 2 mm and weld the 2 x 0.2 sq. mm ultra-flexible wire.


Slide two 1 cm long, Ø 3.2 mm heat shrink tubing segments on each conductor.

Weld the 2 terminals located at the end of the Y microswitch, then solder the 2 x 0.2 mm wires of the ultra-flexible cable and heat-shrink sleeves.



Attach the cable to the base of the X carriage using 2 small clamps making sure it does not touch moving parts (eg belt).


Identify with Y HOME the 2 x 0, 2 mm² ultra-flexibile cable. Use a small clamp to create a point of stand on the bar. The clamp must be left wide, as much as possible.


With the X carriage all moved on the side of the Z carrage, apply 3 small clamps on the Y motor cables and Y HOME, taking care not to tighten too much to allow the cables freedom of movement. Trim excess of the plastic clamps.


Slightly bend the cables near the clamp with two fingers.


Attach with a long clamp the X carriage cables to the X motor.


Try moving the carriage and make sure that when it is positioned close to the X motor, the cables do not interfere with the moving parts.


Apply a long clamp at the center of the upper beam of the frame and one on top of the 8 bar fixed to the side shoulder of the frame leaving the ring very loosely to allow the passage of the cables will be put in place subsequently. Slide the about 140 cm long 4 x 0.2 mm² cable in the clamp.

Halve the 1 x 1 cable to get 2 parts of the same size and insert them into the clamps. Insert through the clamps the remaining piece of 4 x 0.5 sq. mm cable.



Strip the 4 x 0.2 cable for about 3 cm (extruder side), and insert a heat shrink 3 cm long, Ø 6,4 mm and heat .


Strip at about 2 mm and weld the wires. Strip and weld also the two 1 x 1 sq. mm. cables


Strip back about 3 cm of 4 x 0.5 sq. mm. cable . Strip approximately 2 mm and weld the wires.



Insert a Ø 6,4 mm shrink tube and heat it. Take the 4 extruder cables and, using wire cutters, balance them and shorten them by about 2 cm. Strip and weld them.



Insert two heat shrink tubing Ø 3,2 mm on the conductors of the 1 x 1 sq. mm cable, then solder the ends to the wires of the extruder marked with the red ring (heater).



Heat the tubing.


Insert the two heat shrinkable tubing Ø 2,4 mm about 2 cm long on the two wires of extruder (thermistor), and solder the ends to the yellow and blue wires of the 4 x 0.2 mm cable. Heat the tubing.




Twist the motor wires of the extruder motor and cut them at about 20 cm.


Strip the wires about 2 mm and weld them.


Take the 4 x 0.5 mm ² cable and insert the 4 heat shrink tubing Ø 2,4 mm, 2 cm long on the wires.


Solder the wires to the wires of the extruder motor, according to the wiring diagram, then cover the welds with the sheath and heat them. Identify the 4 x 0,5 mm cable just welded with "ME" (on the board side).



Attach the cables to the arm of the extruder using a long clamp, then join the wires together with two short clamps. Leave the cables loose.



Cut the red wire of the fan at the diverter. Strip and weld both ends.

Attach the cables to the frame and bring them to the board.


Cut the F strip:

  • 5 Pcs (4 poles)
  • 3 Pcs (3 poles)
  • 2 Pcs (2 poles)


Strip the 4 x 0 , 2 sq. mm cable in the vicinity of the board (see photo).


Thread 3 cm of Ø 6.4 mm sheath on the cable and heat. Cut the yellow and blue wires to about 8 cm in length. Strip them and weld them.



Insert 2 poles F strip on "E-THERM" pin strip on the board and weld them. Insert Ø 2.4 mm, 1.5 cm long heat shrink tube on the blue and yellow cables, then proceed with welding on the pin-strip just tinned and heat.

Strip and weld the red-black cables. Insert 1.5 cm Ø 2,4 mm heat shrink tubing, solder the wires according to the polarity indicated in the wiring diagram and proceed with heat them to narrow the sheaths.


Strip a 2 x 0.2 mm ² cable and take the microswitch X. Strip the wires and weld, then place 2 cm of heat shrink tubing Ø 3.2 mm and heat.


Insert 1.5 cm long Ø 3.2 mm sheath in the red and blue wires, solder to the microswitch and proceed with heating.


Insert a geared washer on the M3 screw, insert the screw into the microswitch and secure it to the motor.



use a small clamp to join the microswitch cable with other cables. Identify the cable of the switch with "X HOME."



Bundle the 3 "HOME" cables and put them as in figures, then attach to the frame with a long clamp.



Take the "X HOME" wire and cut to a length that allows you to reach the 3 poles pin strip on the board (see diagram). Strip back the cable about 2 cm, strip and weld the wires, then insert on the cable about 2 cm of heat shrink tubing Ø 3,2 mm and, on each conductor, 1 cm of Ø 2.4 mm heath shrink tubing. Heat.


Repeat the same procedure to connect the cables relating to the "Z HOME" and "Y HOME". Grouping the three cables "HOME" with a small clamp.




Insert 2 cm of heat shrink tubing Ø 3.2 mm on the two 1 x 1 mm ² wires and cut to a length that allows welding to its 4 poles pin-strip on the board (see wiring diagram). Note: A wire must be soldered on the first two pins and the second on the other two as shown in the picture



Cut the 4 x 0.5 sq. mm cable of the extruder motor as shown in the figure, then remove the tubing about 5 cm.


Strip and weld the wires, insert about 3 cm of heat shrink tubing Ø 6.4 mm on the cable and put 1.5 cm of Ø 2.4 mm sheath on the 4 conductors. proceed with the welding of the wires on its 4-poles pin-strip (see diagram).


Cut the 4 x 0.5 sq. mm cable of the "Z" axis motor as shown in the figure, then remove the tubing for about 9 cm.


Strip and weld the wires, insert about 3 cm of heat shrink tubing Ø 6,4 mm on the cable and the 1.5 cm of Ø 2, 4 mm sheath on the four wires. proceed with the welding of the wires on the corresponding pin-strip (see diagram).


Cut the 4 x 0.5 sq. mm cable of the "Y" axis motor as shown in the figure, then remove the tubing for about 7 cm.


Strip and weld the wires, insert about 3 cm of heat shrink tubing Ø 6,4 mm on the cable and the 1.5 cm of Ø 2, 4 mm sheath on the four wires. proceed with the welding of the wires on the corresponding pin-strip (see diagram).

Twist the wires of the "X" axis motor so that they remain close, then cut to a length that allows to reacht the relative 4-poles pin-strip on the board. Insert a shrink tube Ø 3,2 mm in the just twisted cable.



Strip and weld the wires and insert on each of them 1.5 cm of a Ø 2.4 mm sheath . Weld to the related pin-strip according to the electric diagram. Group 3 motor cables and secure them with a short clamp to the screw securing the board.

At the end of the procedure the wiring should be as shown in the figure.


Attach the white cable to the black screw terminal of the power supply, respecting the polarity shown in the wiring diagram.


Very important: make sure the switch of the tension output is set to 15 V.


Connect the USB cable to the USB connector on the board.


Calibration of X and Y Limit

Click on the down arrow indicated with -Y to move the printing plate stop when the nozzle of the extruder coincides with the end of the epoxy base.




Bring forward the base so you can adjust the screw that pushes the switch so that it will operate when the nozzle of the extruder is at the end of the base in epoxy glass. Warning: when the nozzle of the extruder reaches the end of the epoxy the microswitch MUST issue a "click".



Click on the arrow to the left indicated with -X to move the printing plate and stop when the nozzle of the extruder coincides with the end of the epoxy base.


Bring the base again on the left so that you can adjust the screw that pushes the switch so that it will operate when the nozzle of the extruder is at the end of the base in epoxy glass. Warning: when the nozzle of the extruder reaches the end of the epoxy the microswitch MUST issue a "click".




Adjustment of the height of the extruder arm and of the Z limit

Place the epoxy base centered under the nozzle of the extruder by clicking on the X and Y arrows. Click on the down arrow indicated with -Z to move the extruder arm and stop when the nozzle of 'extruder reaches the proximity of the epoxy base end.


Rotate by hand (with care to avoid damaging the machine) the item highlighted in the picture up to touch the nozzle in the center of the base in epoxy glass.


Move the base by clicking on the X and Y ( ) arrows until matching the nozzle of the extruder with a corner. Adjust the height of the base by turning the geared washers in plastic so as to touch the nozzle at the base in epoxy glass.


Perform the same operation on the remaining three corners.


Place the nozzle of the extruder at the center of the base by clicking on the X and Y arrows.


Tighten the screw until the microswitch makes a "click".