A notice about these instructions!

These instructions are open to editing by everyone and anyone.
For the official, and most up to date, instructions, see the RepRapPro wiki here

This page is under construction

Alternative

This page describes how to wire up a RepRapPro Huxley that is to be fitted with Sanguinololu Electronics that look like this:

There is a parallel page that describes how to wire up a RepRapPro Huxley that is to be fitted with Melzi Electronics that look like this:

Follow this link for the alternative Melzi wiring page.

Goal

By the end of this stage your machine will look like this (except for the printed part on the bed...) and it will be ready to commission.

Tools

Wire strippers

Soldering iron

Ratchet crimp tool (Rapid Online)

Small screwdriver

Vice

Parts

RP parts	Quantity
	4
	1
Hardware	Quantity
M3 x xxmm screws	4
M3 nuts	4
M3 washers	4
5mm lengths cut from 3mm i.d. PVC tube	4
Power connector	1
Cable ties	About 50

You will also need wire (the leads for the motors are long and will be cut - use the spare lengths) and a reel of sticky tape.

Important: general rules for wiring up

You will do serious damage to your RepRap electronics if the power is connected backwards. Other damaging mistakes are to short out high-current devices like motors and heaters, and to connect high-voltage devices like stepper drivers to signal inputs like temperature sensors.

So - in the sections below where it tells you to check things - please check them thoroughly. It is worth taking the time...

The connections to the RepRapPro Huxley Sanguinololu controller are made using crimp connectors. These require no soldering. If you don't have a crimp tool, there's a video from Nophead here that shows how to manage without:

<videoflash type="youtube">KEm2PuHBt4Y</videoflash>

When wires leave a device (like a motor) or arrive at a connection (like the screw connectors on the controller) leave a small slack length (about 20mm long) for strain relief - don't have the wires taught.

Finally, when making any changes to the wiring or any other electrical aspect of the machine, first disconnect both the power and the USB.

Step 1: Mounting the Sanguinololu PCB

This view is looking from the back of the machine where the Y motor is.

Clip the four printed PCB mounts to the top of the frame. Offer up the PCB and look through its mounting holes to get the gap between them right.

Put the M3 screws through from underneath with washers between the heads and the printed parts. At the front of the machine the screws go through the holes nearest the M6 bar. At the back they go through the holes that are away from the M6 Bar.

Slip the 3mm PVC tubes over the screw threads - friction should hold the screws up, but if it doesn't use a little sticky tape.

Cut a length of coiled cable retainer and fit it between the back mounts as shown. This stops the PTFE filament tube to the extruder hot end rubbing on the threads.

This view is looking from the front of the machine - the other way from the view above.

Put the PCB over the ends of the screws as shown with the four big connectors facing the front, put four washers on, and then four nuts.

When doing up the nuts, take great care that the M3 spanner that you use does not hit and damage any of the electronic components on the PCB. Don't do the nuts up too tight. They want to compress the PVC a little to give a firm fit, that is all.

Step 2: Power

The power from the 19v power supply comes through the connector with positive in the centre and negative around the outside

You will need two power cables in the machine: one about 500 mm long for the controller board, and one about 400 mm long for the heated bed. Both connect to the socket above.

Strip the insulation from the ends of two power wire pairs. For the +19v ends strip about 5mm. For the 0v ends strip about 15mm.

Twist the +19v ends together and tin them. Put a length of heatshrink over both, then solder them to Pin 3 in the picture:

Run the heatshrink down over the pin and shrink it.

Twist the 0v ends together and push the result through Pin 1 , then across and through Pin 2. Keep it clear of Pin 3.

Solder these wires to both Pins 1 and 2. Trim off any excess.

Attach the power socket to the power connector clip then use the 25mm M3 screw to attach this to the back left frame bottom vertex as shown. You can see the Y motor in the picture to give the location. Use washers under the head and nut of the screw.

The picture shows the wires clipped to the frame - that is done in the next section.

Step 4: The stepper motors

Y

Start with the Y stepper wires. These follow route G on the pictures above. Gently twist the wires (not tight) so that they lie neatly together. Tape the wires to the frame every 60/70 mm.

From left to right the colour sequence of the Y-motor wires connecting to the controller is: Red, Blue, Green, Black.

Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "Y-MOTOR" controller connector.

X

Next do the X wires. These follow route A. Again gently twist them. Allow a loop as shown - remember that this will have to accommodate the Z axis as it moves up and down.

From left to right the colour sequence of the X-motor wires connecting to the controller is: Red, Blue, Green, Black.

Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "X-MOTOR" controller connector.

Extruder

Next do the extruder motor wires. These follow the top of route E. Take care that the wires run clear of the extruder shaft attached to the big gear.

From left to right the colour sequence of the extruder-motor wires connecting to the controller is: Black, Green, Blue, Red (that is, the opposite sequence to X and Y).

Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "E-MOTOR" controller connector.

Z

Finally in this section do the Z wires.

The Z-motor wires run along route B.

The two Z motors are connected in series as shown above. Cut two 20mm lengths of heat-shrink sleeving and put it on one of each pair of wires that will be connected together. Then twist the ends and solder them, then shrink the sleeving over the join.

From left to right the colour sequence of the Z-motor wires connecting to the controller is: Black, Green, Blue, Red (that is the same as the extruder).

Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "Z-MOTOR" controller connector.

Step 5: Endstops

Connect your endstops using two wires each. It is a good idea to use a different colour for each axis as this will make it easier to get the endstops connected to the correct input. The wires you cut from the stepper motors are different colours...

For the limit switch end, crimp or solder a terminal onto the end of the wires, then cover with some heatshrink to insulate the terminal. Connect to the outer pins of the limit switches (the NC = Normally Closed connections; RepRap expects the switch to open when the endstop is hit.)

The endstop switch holes should be drilled out to 3mm diameter so they can be mounted using #4x1/2" self tapping screws (alternatively, #2-56 and M2.2 screws will fit the switch, but are not included).

Y

The Y endstop is mounted beside the Y motor:

Its wires follows route F.

Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "YSTOP" controller connector. They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.

X

For the X endstop you will need the sticky pad from the extruder fan that you peeled off and saved. Cut a rectangle from it the size of the face of the switch and stick it on so that...

...it will be between the switch and the X-motor end of the X axis. Make sure that the sticky pad does not stick out and so foul the movement of the switch's lever.

Make a small hole in the sticky pad so that you can put a screw through the lower switch hole, then screw the switch to the X-motor end of the X axis.

The wires follow route A. Wind them loosely round the X motor wires.

Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "XSTOP" controller connector. They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.

Z

The Z endstop switch is mounted using the "h" shaped printed clip on the right-hand smooth Z bar:

Leave a generous loop of wire between the switch and where you first attach it to the frame. You need to be able to move the "h" clip up and down to set the Z zero position.

The Z switch wires follow route F.

Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "ZSTOP" connector. They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.

Step 6: Hot end

Separate the wires from the heater resistor and those from the thermistor.

Straighten the fan wire (it is quite stiff, and can get kinked). Wrap the heater resistor wires round the fan wire. It is neatest to do these together, one going clockwise and the other anti-clockwise.

Loop the heater and fan wires behind and over the top of the threaded bars across the top of the machine (the wires don't run between the bars). Give a generous loop - remember that the X axis has to run from end to end when the Z axis is at the bottom of its travel. Tape the wires to the middle of the front bar.

You marked the fan wires positive and negative when you cut the connector off them. Trim them to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above, and not forgetting which is positive and which is negative), strip the ends, and tin them. Loosen the power wires and and screw them and the fan wires back into the main power connector. Make sure you get the polarity right.

The fan wires do not connect to the connector marked "FAN". That is for a different optional fan for cooling prints as they are being built from materials that require that.

Run the heater resistor wires to the "HOTEND" connector. Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "HOTEND" connector. They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.

Wind the thermistor wires round the fan wires in the same way as you did the heater wires. Run them to the "ETEMP" connector. Trim the wires to the right length (not forgetting the extra for strain relief - see above), strip the ends, tin them, and screw them into the "ETEMP" connector. They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.

Step 7: Heated bed signal wires

Take the 4-way ribbon cable. Separate the wires at one end for about 15mm.

Push the separated wires into the 4-way insulation displacement connector (IDC). There is no need to strip the wires. Use the jaws of the vice to push the connector together. Be gentle - don't damage the connector by pushing too far.

Plug the connector onto the 4-way pin header on the heated bed at the right in this picture:

The ribbon cable follows route E.

Only three of the four wires are used (the forth is for a future enhancement for bed levelling for which your machine is already pre-configured). The unused wire is the nearest to you in the picture.

The next wire in is the signal that turns the heated bed MOSFET on and off. That needs to be connected to the the controller connector labelled "HOTBED". It needs to go to the side of the "HOTBED" screw connector labelled "GND":

As you can see, the side of the "HOTBED" connector labelled "PWR" is not connected to anything.

The final two wires (the two furthest away in the first picture) go to the connector labelled "BTEMP". They can be connected either way - they have no polarity.

When you have connected up the three active wires, check their continuity with a meter from the screw connections on the controller board to the little blobs of solder on top of the 4-way connector. If you have open-circuit problems, it may be the IDC. A neat trick with this to rectify an open circuit (thanks to Alan Ryder) is gently to pull the IDC apart, take the wires out, strip them, and tin them. Then reassemble - the tinning ensures good contact with the IDC blades. This is only worth doing if you have problems with the simple method, though.

Step 8: USB cable

The USB cable plugs into the mini-USB connector beside the SD card socket on the controller. The cable follows route C.

Step 9: Double check

Use your meter to double-check the power connections.

Make sure that 0v (GND) - the outside of the power connector - runs to the places in the circuitry that you would expect (for example the case of the SD card socket).

Check that the +19v wires run from the central pin on the connector to the right places on the circuit boards.