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The RepRap Haeckel is an open source 3D printer that uses fused deposition modeling (FDM).
Ernst Heinrich Philipp August Haeckel (* 16. February 1834, † 9. August 1919) was a German biologist who promoted and popularized Charles Darwin's work in Germany.
The Reprap Haeckel is based on a generic Mendel. Its goal is to be a self contained unit, that can easily be upgrade to have a Heated Build Chamber. The idea is to have a very rigid frame and x assembly that can withstand light milling, such as PCB Milling or wood engraving. The Haeckel has two integrated spool holder, each holds up to 4 filament spools (9cm wide each).
- Printed Parts:
- Non-Printed Parts:
- Material Cost: 500€~
- Cost: not for sale, yet
- Printing Size: 200mm x 200mm x 350mm (can be extended)
- Precision: ??? (position), ??? (printing)
- Speed: ??? (position), ??? (printing)
- Footprint: 470mm x 470mm x 570mm
|Quantity||Length||Part Type||Used Where||Comment||Looks like||2||550mm||20x20mm aluminum extrusion||back struts. The spool holders get attached to these, depending on your filament spool diameter, you might want to use longer back struts.||2||420mm||20x20mm aluminum extrusion||front struts||12||430mm||20x20mm aluminum extrusion||rest of the frame||2||270mm||20x20mm aluminum extrusion||spool holders. can be extended or shortened||2||90mm||20x20mm aluminum extrusion||Needed for x end and x idler. Soon to be available fully printed. Absolute minimal length is 90mm. I recommend using 200mm (can be up to 280mm).|
|Part||Used Where||Quantity||Length.||Comment||Looks like||X-smooth rods||2||370mm||Can without problems be longer than recommended minimum lengths. Length shouldnt exceed 390mm.||Y-smooth rods||2||430mm||These lengths can not be longer. 5mm shorter will still be okay, but 1mm longer can not be mounted||Z-smooth rods||4||370mm||Can without problems be longer than recommended minimum lengths.Length shouldnt exceed 390mm|
|1. Overview||2. Begin by sliding a three way connector on a 420mm extrusion||3. Slide the connector down and tighten it||4. Take a small corner and attach it||5. Take a second small corner and attach it to the other side. Repeat Steps 2 - 5. You should now have two of these front struts.||6. Attach one 430mm Extrusion to one of the three way connectors. Attach Y-Motor mount and two bar clamps as pictured.||7. Attach the other strut to the horizontal bar. Make sure the Motormount and bar clamps are correctly attached. You will not be able to insert nuts into the t-slot afterwards||8. Take two 430mm extrusions and attach them to the top and bottom corners. The motor mount gets attatched to the bottom extrusion||9. Make sure the frame is rectangular. The measurements can differ by the type of extrusion you are using. This measurement is 470mm and needs to be exact on all points||10. The distance between the lower extrusions needs to be 50mm (center to center). For 20mm wide extrusions its 70mm (outside to outside)||11. The front side of the Haeckel is now done and square||12. The back side is very similar to the front side. Assemble a frame as pictured. Vertical struts are 550mm (longer because they carry the spoolholders). Horizontal struts are 430mm. Check steps 2 - 5 for details||13. Insert nuts into the lower extrusions. You'll need 5. 2 for each bar clamp. One for the belt tensioner. Assemble small corners at the bottom. Check the measurements on this part aswell||14. Assemble bar clamps and belt tensioner to the backside. Attach 3x 430mm extrusions as pictured||15. Attach 3x 430mm extrusions to the other side aswell||16. Attach Z motor mounts to the bottom. NOTICE: if you wish to mount any electronics to the inside of the printer, you will need to insert the nuts now. You will not be able to install any nuts into the t-slot lateron. If you forget this, you will have to disassemble the whole printer lateron||17. Attach the front frame. The overall frame of the printer is now finished. Check if its square||18. Parts for each end of the x axis. I recommend using slightly longer extrusions. I have used 90mm extrusions and its a really tight fit.||19. Assemble one bearing holder to the extrusion||20. Prepare the nut holder for the threaded rod. You will need two springs and two m8 nuts. Each nut is pushed upwards by one spring.||21. Attach the prepared nut holder to the extrusion||22. Attach the motor mount and bar clamps. This is now the x-motor end||23. The x-idler end is very similar, just replace the motor mount with the idler mount||24. Loosely attach the smooth rods to the clamps and slide on the axis-ends. Only when the axis slide freely tighten the bar clamps.||25. Attach a Nema17 stepper motor||26. Make sure the nut holder is centered and insert the threaded rod. Attach the threaded rod to the motor. NOTICE: During the build proess I noticed that this x assembly is a bit wobbly. I added more LM8UU bearings. Each side of the x axis now has 4 linear bearings. See the pictures 27 & 28.||27. Connect the two axis ends with the smooth rods. The distance between the smooth rods should be 50mm (center to center). If you are using 8mm rods, the distance is 58mm (outside to outside). Also attach the y motor and y smooth rods. You can see the mount for the ramps boad in the front righthand corner here. In the back, there is already a rasperry pi mounted - to be used with octoprint.||28. Installl the build platform. Now take a shameful look at the mess you have created on your desk.|
Changes and upgrades
|1. Installed a fan-controller thats usually built into 3.5 inch slots on computers. Used 20mm_extrusion_fancontroller_holder_30mmheight.stl||2. Installed various switches that control lighting on the printer. Used these switches: Conrad 700215-62, Conrad 701343-62, and 20mm_extrusion_switch_holders.stl||3. Replaced the x-axis ends with longer extrusions. The new ones are 270mm and offer much more space for the motor and other accessories (e.g. webcam)||4. Installed a PSU jack (Conrad 612600-62) with a switch (Conrad 700215-62). Used 20mm_extrusion_psu_jack_holder.stl|
Printer at work