PonokoZFrameAssembly

Assembling The Ponoko RepRap Z Frame

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First off, let me don my "Mr Safety" hat and point out that there is a high probability of an accident in putting this framework together. You do not want to see a sight like this coming at your retina at speed:

Please put something on top of the pointy-up poles you are about to install so that there is no room on top for an eyeball:

You will need these parts from the lasercut kit, and the following hardware:

• 4 off 8mm bright steel rod, 500mm long
• 6 off M8 nut
• 8 off M5 nut
• 8 off M5 8mm grub screw

It is really, really handy to have a 2.5mm ball-ended hex key to put the grub screws in with. Using one without a ball end is likely to result in cracked acrylic.

Placing the four jigs on the ends of the lowest bars, prop up the Lower Frame and slide the 8mm rods into the holes in the outside corners.

Using an M5 grub screw and nut, fix the vertical rods in place. Do not tighten the grubs more than is necessary to hold the rods firmly. Fit grubs to the upper and lower segments of the Corner Assemblies.

Fitting grubs under the Z Motor means you'll have to take it off.

When all the vertical rods are secured, it should look like this.

Wind a pair of M8 nuts 35mm down the shaft of the Z Idler and lock them off as shown.

Either fit skate bearings (if you're using them) or remove the retaining bolts (if you're using the BB-loaded assemblies) from the bearings in the Lower Frame. Slide the Bed Mount over the vertical rod, and put the end of the Z Idler into the bearing in the Corner Assembly. Do this for all 3 Corners.

Remove the 3mm thick disc from the end of the Z Motor Assembly.

Now we assemble the Z Drive Rod. You'll need the remaining Bed Mount, the disc from the operation above and the following hardware:

• 290mm M8 studding
• 3 off M8 nuts
• 1 off M8 half- or press-nut
• 2 off M8 washers
• Length of 11mm compression spring

Caught without an M8 half-nut? You might get away with a full one. If not, hacksaw time.

Fit the Bed Mount to the studding as before. Wind an M8 nut on so that 10mm of thread is left exposed.

Put an M8 washer on the studding, followed by the disc, another M8 washer and the M8 half-nut. Tighten.

Slide the Bed Mount over the vertical rod near the Z Motor. Fit the disc back on top - you will probably not be able to fit the washers unless they are very skinny ones. Oh well.

Grab an extra 2 M8 nuts and lock them off on the top of the Z Drive Rod with 35mm of thread protruding. Do the same to the Z Idler rods.

Now to assemble the top part of the Z Frame. You will need the Top Corner Assemblies, the Opto Holders with Y and Z written on them and the following hardware:

• 4 off 500mm bright steel rod, 8mm diameter
• 2 off M5 nuts
• 2 off M5 8mm grub screws

Slip the bearings out of the Top Corners.

Slide the Top Corners onto the rods much as per the Lower Frame, but don't forget to add the Opto Holders as shown. Get them the right way up - the Y Opto Holder is on the left in this photo.

Once more, use the jigs to space out the rods before tightening the screws.

As you have removed the bearings, you can flip the frame over to tighten the screws on the underside. If you forgot to remove them, it will rain BB's.

Fix the Opto Holders in gently with the grub screws, just to hold them out of the way.

Fit the bearings onto the tops of the Z Idlers.

Now lower the Top Frame onto the Z Frame Assembly. To get the spacing right, use a jig and then tighten the nuts on the Z Idlers to position the bearings into the underside of the Top Frame.

If your jig does not have an 8mm hole in one end (sorry early adopters) then drill one so that the upper and lower frames are separated by 375mm.

The hole fits on the Top Frame stubs like this...

...and clips on the Lower Frame like this:

Secure the Top Frame as you did the Lower Frame using

• 8 off M5 nuts
• 8 off M5 8mm grub screws

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-- Main.VikOlliver - 23 Nov 2008