Funbot i1
Release status: working
| Description | Funbot i1
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| License | CC-BY-SA
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| Author | |
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Reprap österlen Sweden!
Its in its startup process but if everything goes right will I soon find nearby reprapers to join up on some build fun.
If you live in Sweden in a region called skåne and the part of it called österlen? ( I live in simrishamn )
Let me know on facebook so we can share/trade electronics and help with various builds.
And even arrange some maker meetings in the weekends.
I have built reprap machines since august 2013.
If you live nearby and nead parts let me know as this is my setup so far.
<videoflash type="youtube">-z9dfzfSfB4</videoflash>
Contents
- 1 About Funbot i1
- 2 Printing dimensions.
- 3 Boom
- 4 Wood for the base.
- 5 Bed material.
- 6 Be carefull while drilling plastic parts!!!!!
- 7 M3 screws,nuts,washers
- 8 Pipes.
- 9 Threaded rods.
- 10 Placeholders.
- 11 Bearings.
- 12 Motors.
- 13 Here did I buy my extruder.
- 14 Here did I buy my Power supply.
- 15 Marlin Firmware.
- 16 Slicer config.
- 17 Some other peoples designs being used.
- 18 Mixed videos
- 19 Assembly Videos
About Funbot i1
Work in progress. Look on the thingiverse page until this is done.
The main goal of this printer design is simplicity,cheap and easy to build,i might even call it a toy printer to -
help people to get interested in the wonders of 3d printing.
I wanted to share my creation here as it whas the reprap community that helped me build my first printer a wood box frame prusa i3.
This printer uses printed lm10uu and chromed wather pipes instead of rods and standard lm10uu bearings,this makes it very silent also
while printing that is a good thing when you live in a apartement.
Printing dimensions.
X=155mm Y=170mm Z=120mm
Boom
Boom will be added during a longer time so be patient.
My fellow repraper Wayne Friedt have allowed me to include his case for the reprap full graphics controller i have modified to fit this bot.
The cool thing with this case is that it also hides most of the cables and makes it look cleaner. https://www.facebook.com/my3dph?ref=bookmarks
Boom so far.
Wood for the base.
I use a 12 mm thick mdf wooden board with the dimensions 280x240mm for the base.
Bed material.
The dimension of the 2 bed plates are 210x190 mm
I use 3 mm thick acrylic plastic that you buy very easy at any home depot or carpenters store.
I used 3 mm thick only because it where the dimension they had at my local store but if you find 4-6 mm thick at yours so would that be even better.
This would give better stability to the bed area but is not neccesery as it works also with 3 mm,but this will bend slightly when adjusting levelling screws etc.
But are rock solid during printing :)
In the countrie where you live so could it be called something else but this is plain plastic sheets they sell to cover broken windows or as protection screen on cnc
machines.
Be carefull while drilling plastic parts!!!!!
Keep in mind to drill up the holes for the 10mm pipes in reverse on your drill so will you not crack anything and get a better surface to slide in the pipes.
M3 screws,nuts,washers
z coupler uses 4 20mm long screws and the same amount of nuts. wood screws.
Pipes.
You will nead about 2.5-3 meters of chromed copper wather pipes with the outer dimension of 10mm. I found that if you buy them in 1 meter lengths so are it easier to find straight ones. 2 meters where usually very bendt during shipping!
( usa have other dimensions and 3/8" (9.5248mm) should work as good as European 10 mm.) If you build one in the us with these pipes let me know that everything works ok? If you experience a wobbly sensation with us pipes so simply scale down the bearing part to 98-99 in slicer as it should not affect the rest of it to much. With enough requests so will I try to do some official us parts to the 9.5 mm pipes for the printer. the main pieces should not be a problem as you always nead to drill them to insert the 10 mm pipes.
The lower value have bin tested and the larger is if you want to push it that might give print errors at the each end of the print size.
y axis = 2 pipes 270 mm ( print size 170)
x axis = 2 pipes 320 mm ( print size 165)
z axis = 3 pipes 290 mm ( print size 110-120)
Optional........ Spol holder = 2 pipes 100-160 mm ( This is more or less how you want it) (Iused 160 in my videos)
summary.... 2 = 270mm long pipes. 2 = 320mm long pipes. 3 = 290mm long pipes. total = 2050 mm ( slightly above 2 meters)
(updated 2015-01-17)
Threaded rods.
1 m5 threaded rod 100-110mm long for y carriage drive shaft. ( 100mm works for long motor shafts.)
1 m8 threaded rod 210-220 mm long for z axis. ( 210mm works for long motor shafts.)
( Keep in mind that many motors have various lengths on the shaft so to be sure should you probably add 10-20 mm to the z axis threaded rod to get the same print
height that I state. )
(updated 2015-01-17)
Placeholders.
the supplied endstop mount for the z axis is not mine and a placeholder as it is the prusa i3 reworks I simply cut to fit a 10mm pipe.
Bearings.
You nead 3 624zz skateboard bearings for the belt drive.
2 are used for the y belt and can be improved as it is 2 only to get a wider spacing.
1 is used for the x axis belt together with washer to keep the belt in place.
If you wonder why I use these bearings so are they only 1 mm larger in diameter then a gt2 20 teeth pulley and fits nice on a m4 screw.
you nead 1 625zz bearing for the y axis drive shaft.
you nead 1 608zz for the filament spool spindle and have only bin tested on 1 kg spools.
summary..... 3 = 624zz 1 = 625zz 1 = 608zz
Motors.
You nead 3 nema 17! 1 - 2 amp motors as the extruder I use comes with one already attached and is cheap.
The motors in the video is 1.7 amp motors and are used because I had them at home.
The dimension on the motors I use are 40mm but that should matter as long as you use motors close to that dimension,
It is more critical to have a motor close to 40mm on the z axis as there is some very small ones that will conflict on the stability on the z axis if used there.
The small ones should you be able to use on the 2 other places on the printer like x and y axis.
Here did I buy my extruder.
Very long delivery time 3-5 weeks from china.
I recently found these on ebay and works just as good and are made in uk.
1-2 week delivery and improved nozzle and only slightly more expensiv.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151552176556?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
(updated 2015-01-17)
Here did I buy my Power supply.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310811933321?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Marlin Firmware.
I will try to upload my prototype marlin code in a compressed file but its pretty straight forward and easy to setup. Her is some typical settings that neads to be changed......
configuration.h #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false // My mendel prusa wanted it like orca #define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false #define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false #define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
Use this in the beginning and then expand when you see that this is working ok. // Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 145 #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MAX_POS 150 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MAX_POS 110 #define Z_MIN_POS 0
This is stil temporary but is a start.
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80 ,80 , 2560, 105.90192}
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {450, 450, 2.5, 32} // (mm/sec)
// X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {4500,4500,50,3200}
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves #define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts
// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 10.0 // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_EJERK 5 // (mm/sec)
Don't forget to remove // in front of the line that enables your type of lcd you use!!!!!!
Slicer config.
the slicer config neads to be loaded manually and then do you save each section in slicer if you don't want to do this manually everytime. I will also upload this soon.
Some other peoples designs being used.
Lm10uu replacement.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:237956
Use this for a z coupler until i make one of my own.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19858
Mixed videos
( Videos have adds to fund my builds (order is old to new))
Wath you hear in the background is my prusa and delta also printing.
<videoflash type="youtube">ip3r_K-uzk8</videoflash><videoflash type="youtube">Atj7m3ffq-Y</videoflash> <videoflash type="youtube">Bzg8LdMwHmQ</videoflash>
Assembly Videos
( Videos have adds to fund my builds )
Printer updates done after the guide where done
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Part 1 - 2
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Part 3 - 4
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Part 5 - 6
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Part 7 -8
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Part 9
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