Funbot i1

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Funbot i1

Release status: working

Funbot i1.jpg
Funbot i1
CAD Models
External Link


Work in progress.

The main goal of this printer design is simplicity; cheap and easy to build. It might even be called a toy printer to help people to get interested in the wonders of 3D printing.

This printer uses printed LM10UU and chromed water pipes instead of rods. Rods can still be used. (If using rods, for all places that call for pipes, simply replace with rods.) This makes it very silent while printing, which helps when you live somewhere with close-quarters noise issues, such as apartments.

You can watch a video containing all Funbot i1 update versions, from the base version to the most recent update 7 version here.


These specifications are for the Funbot i1 update 7:

  • Printed Parts: around 43 different parts.
  • Non-Printed Parts: Motors. Electronics. Wood Base. 2 Build Plates. 1 Threaded Rod/Lead Screw. 9 Chromed Pipes/Smooth Rods.
  • Printing Size: build area of about 6.1" x 6.7" x 4.7" or 155mm x 170mm x 120mm (Updated 2015-01-17)
  • Material Cost: ~US$ 11 if printed in-house, Up to US$ 100 if using a print service
  • Cost: Under US$ 300 (all parts, including plastic)

TODO: Add precision and speed

Bill Of Materials

The BOM will be added as things are updated, so please be patient.

RepRaper Wayne Friedt has allowed the use of his case for the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller. It has modified to fit this printer. The cool thing with this case is that it also hides most of the cables and makes it look cleaner.

Wood Base

The wood base uses a 12 mm thick MDF wooden board with the dimensions 280mm x 240mm. Drill guides are included on the Thingiverse page here.

Bed Materials

The dimensions of the two bed plates are 210mm x 190mm.

Bed material is 3mm thick acrylic plastic (available at most hardware stores, such as Home Depot) that is laminated with brushed aluminum on both sides.

3mm thick was used only because it was the thickness that was most readily available at the time of development. 4mm - 6mm thick would work better, giving more stability. Be sure to adjust your Z endstop to account for the difference in bed thickness.

3mm material will bend slightly when adjusting levelling screws etc., but is rock solid during printing.

In the countries where you live, it may be called Plexiglas, Lexan or something else. This is the plain plastic (acrylic) sheets they sell to cover broken windows or as a protective screen on CNC machines.

You will also nead a glass plate in the same dimension to print on, and at least two binder clips to hold it in place.


You will need around 2.5-3 meters of chromed copper water pipes or smooth rods with an outer dimension of 10 mm. US size 3/8" (9.5248 mm) should work as well as European 10mm.

If you experience a wobbly sensation with US pipes, simply scale down the bearing part to 98-99 in your preferred slicer. This should not affect the rest of the assembly too much. The main pieces should not be a problem as you always need to drill them to insert the 10mm pipes.

Keep in mind to drill up the holes for the 10mm pipes in reverse on your drill so will you not crack anything and get a better surface to slide in the pipes.

(2) 270 mm long pipes. (2) 320 mm long pipes. (3) 290 mm long pipes. Total = 2050 mm (slightly above 2 meters)

Optional: Spool holder = (2) 100mm - 160mm (This is your preference. Spool size matters. 160mm rods were used in videos.)



Threaded Rod/Lead Screw

(1) M8 threaded rod 210mm - 220mm (210 mm works for long motor shafts.)


(1) M8 lead screw 210mm - 220mm (210 mm works for long motor shafts.)

Keep in mind that many motors have various lengths on the shaft, so to be sure to add 10-20 mm to the Z-axis threaded rod to get the same print height stated.)


(1) 608zz bearing for the top of the Z axis threaded rod.


(3) 40mm NEMA17 Stepper Motors

The MK8 Extruder kit usually comes with a stepper motor included. If you use a different type of extruder, be sure to include another stepper motor.

The motors in the videos are 1.7 amp motors.

It is more critical to have a motor close to 40 mm on the Z axis, as there are some very small ones that will affect the stability on the Z axis if used there.

You should be able to use shorter or taller motors on the other places on the printer, like the X and Y axis.

Marlin Firmware

Here are some typical settings that need to be changed in your Configuration.h file:

#define INVERT_X_DIR true    // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true  
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false    // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false // My mendel prusa wanted it like orca  
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true     // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true  
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false  
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false    // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false  
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false  

Use this in the beginning and then expand when you see that this is working ok.

// Travel limits after homing  
#define X_MAX_POS 145  
#define X_MIN_POS 0  
#define Y_MAX_POS 150  
#define Y_MIN_POS 0  
#define Z_MAX_POS 110  
#define Z_MIN_POS 0  

This is stil temporary but is a start.

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80 ,80 , 2560, 105.90192}  // If you use a lead screw, be sure change the 2560 to your value 
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {450, 450, 2.5, 32}    // (mm/sec)  
// X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.  
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {4500,4500,50,3200}   
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          1000    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves  
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  1000   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts  
// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously)  
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                10.0    // (mm/sec)  
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4     // (mm/sec)  
#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5   // (mm/sec)  

Don't forget to remove the // in front of the line that enables the type of LCD you use!!!!!!


LM10UU replacement:

Mixed Video

( Videos have ads to fund my builds - RepRapOsterlen)

Print Quality - Hellboy Print

Assembly Videos

( Videos have ads to fund my builds - RepRapOsterlen)

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

Printer Updates During Development

Update 1
Update 2
Update 3
Update 4
Update 5
Update 6
Update 7

Current Development

For RepRapOsterlen's original Funbot i1, please click here.
For moebius_2033's updated Funbot i1, please click here.