Build Sanguish1.0
Release status: working
| Description | All in one electronics with Toshiba drivers
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| License | [GPL]
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| Author | |
| Contributors | |
| Based-on | |
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| CAD Models | |
| External Link | (none)
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Sanguish ----- Firmware for Sanguish ----- Use Sanguish
Assembly Instructions
You will first need to decide what voltage you will run your heaters and motors at. The motors and heaters can be powered from different voltages. Then decide what your max current will be for each stepper driver. Most commonly all the drivers will be set the same, but if you are going to run your Z axis with two motors in parallel then you may want the Z driver to have double the max current. Max current depends on the motors. Often motors are run at some fraction of their max rated current. This will give less torque but will allow the motors to run cooler. One easy option would be to set the max current equal to the motor max rated current, and then you could set the torque jumpers to 75% if they run too hot. These drivers don't have a potentiometer to set max current so you are limited to four settings. Once you set the max current via the current sense resistors, you get only 100%, 75%, 50%, and 20% current via the torque jumpers. If you leave one of the current sense resistor sockets empty it would be fairly easy to increase the max current later by soldering additional resistors into the empty spots.
There are two resistors per coil and two coils per driver. The two resistors for each coil are wired in parallel, so the current from each simply adds together. Included in the kit are three different resistors. 0.5 ohm (green black silver gold) = 1 amp 1 ohm (brown black gold gold) = 0.5 amp 1.5 ohm (brown green gold gold) = 0.33 amp The two resistors indicated are both for the first coil of the first stepper. The two below are for the other coil. The pictured board is set to 2 amps max current for all coils. 0.5 ohm + 1 ohm would give 1.5 amps max. 1.5 ohm + 1 ohm would give .83 amps max. Set both coils of the same driver the same. Separate drivers can be different.
Possible combinations using resistors supplied in the kit would be:
one 1.5 ohm resistor per coil = 0.33 amp max
one 1 ohm resistor per coil = 0.5 amp max
1.5 ohm and 1 ohm resistors per coil = 0.83 amp max
one 0.5 ohm resistor per coil = 1 amp max
1.5 ohm and 0.5 ohm resistors per coil = 1.33 amp max
1.0 ohm and 0.5 ohm resistors per coil = 1.5 amp max
two 0.5 ohm resistors per coil = 2 amp max
For other resistors not supplied in the kit the equation for current is I=0.5/R where R is the resistance and I is the current.
Electronic Components
| Description | Part Number | Quantity | Comments
|
|---|---|---|---|
| 360 Ohm resistor | R69, R11, R12, R42 | 5 | LED and Transistor bias. Optional R66 for 24V conversion. |
| 4.7 KOhm resistor | 0 | 3 | Temp and reset |
| 0.5 Ohm 1/2 W resistor | R50-R65 | 16 | Current sense resistors. As desired for your max current. |
| 1 Ohm 1/2 W resistor | R50-R65 | 8 | Current sense resistors. As desired for your max current. |
| 1.5 Ohm 1/2 W resistor | R50-R65 | 8 | Current sense resistors. As desired for your max current. |
| 40 pin female header | 0 | 3 | Sockets for driver chips |
| 40 pin male header | 0 | 3 | jumper headers, connectors etc. |
| 10 A Relay | 0 | 1 | Power on sequencing switch |
| 40 Pin Dip socket | 0 | 1 | Socket for Atmega |
| ATMega | 0 | 1 | |
| Crystal | 0 | 1 | 16 or 20 MHz |
| 22 pf Capacitor | 0 | 2 | for crystal oscillator |
| NO Push button switch | 0 | 1 | Reset Switch |
| 0.1 uf ceramic capacitor | 0 | 13 | various |
| 10 uf electrolytic capacitor | 0 | 6 | driver isolation and temp |
| 100 uf electrolytic capacitor | 0 | 3 | power input caps |
| Toshiba TB6560AHQ drivers | 0 | 4 | drivers |
| FET | 0 | 3 | heaters and relay driver |
| LED | 0 | 2 | heater indicators |
| 2 pos screw terminal | 0 | 4 | power in and heater out |
| 100 pf ceramic capacitor | 0 | 4 | driver clock capacitors |
Here is a brief pictorial with instructions. You can click on each picture to get a larger view. Component markings are indicated in parenthesis like this (red, red, brown)
Start with the shortest components. Here are the 2.2k resistors (red yellow red gold). They are used for current limiting on the 12V/24V indicator LED's and for weak pull ups on switches. With 2.2k resistors, the LED's should be fine with either 12V or 24V supply for motors and heaters.
Here are the 360 ohm (orange blue brown gold) resistors. They are used for current limiting on the FET control lines and for the 5V indicator LED.
The 4.7k (yellow purple red gold)resistors are used as voltage dividers for the thermistor temperature sensors.
Current sense resistors set the max current for the steppers. Use combinations of current sense resistors to give the desired max current setting for each driver.
For R66 use a jumper wire if using 12V for the motor supply and 360 ohm resistor (orange blue brown gold) if using a 24V supply.
Solder in the 40 pin socket then add the 0.1 uf caps (yellow arrows), the 22pf caps and the crystal (blue arrows). For the capacitors, bend them down so they sit below the level of the socket before soldering them in place.
Then the rest of the ceramic capacitors. The other 0.1 uf caps (blue arrows), and the 100 pf caps (red arrows). The diodes are polar so not alignment before inserting.
The LED's are polar so make sure you insert them correctly. The long lead should go in the side with a + sign.
The two small FET's are for the relay and the hot end. Note which way they are facing and insert accordingly.
Next cut up the single row pin headers. You'll want four 4 pin, three 3 pin, six 2 pin, and optional 5 and 6 pin headers for the serial connectors. If you are going to use the built in MCP2200 USB-serial converter you won't need the other two serial headers. Don't solder the screw terminals yet.
Now cut up the dual row pin headers. You'll need four 4x2, four 2x2, one 3x2 and one 5x2 pin header. Don't solder the screw terminals yet.
Cut the sockets up for the drivers. You'll need four 12 position and four 13 position sockets. One socket will be ruined each time you cut. That's OK. Just cut in the middle of the sacrificial socket to avoid damaging the sockets next to it.
The 33uf caps are polar so note the polarity and insert accordingly. Electrolytic capacitors soldered in backwards may explode when powered up.
Now solder in the relay, the 7805 regulator (Blue arrow) and the IRLB8743 FET (red arrow). Note polarity of the 7805 and the FET.
Then solder in the large capacitors. Note polarity to avoid explosion.
The fuses are sensitive to cooling and will take longer to open if they are not in still air. You may decide to solder the two 5A fuses to the top side with all the other components, but I would recommend that the larger fuse be soldered to the underside of the board. Bend and cut the leads to size before soldering.
