FoldaRap Build Manual

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FoldaRap Documentation

Main page | FoldaRap Buyer's Guide | FoldaRap Build Manual | FoldaRap User Manual | FoldaRap improvements

1.0

1.1

Tools required

1,5 mm hexagonal wrench (for the pulleys grub screw)
2 mm hexagonal wrench (for M3 counterksunk bolts and pneumatic fittings "MA-12-03-M5")
2,5 mm hexagonal wrench (for normal M3 cap-head bolts and the rounded M4 bolts used for the frame)
little flat screwdriver (1,5mm) (for the board's screw terminals)
Philips (PH2) or flat screwdriver (3mm) (for the psu's screw terminals)

You may need also :

a 5,5mm flat spanner or a small pliers (for m3 nuts)
something to cut wires, and strip them (knife, automatic striper, etc.)
a lighter for the heat-shrink sleeves
soldering iron (to eventually solder the endstops)
small files (round, flat) to eventually ream the printed parts
a glue gun (gluing the endstop on the printed part is easier/quicker than using bolts)
a multimeter (to set the drivers current)

General tips

Read the whole manual once or twice before starting, to get an overview of the build
- Basically we have a main frame and several sub-assemblies, some can be done in parallel : gather your friends and establish a record for minimum building time ! (Actual best record : 4 hours)
Work on a cutting mat if you have one, it will protect your table plus they often show a millimetre grid that will be useful to check the bolts length (with some experience you will recognize them just by looking or holding one).
Place you mouse over a picture in a list if you wonder what part it is
In case of doubt, don't hesitate to have a look at the 3d model in Sketchup (before/during the build), even if about a next version of the machine it will show you the folded/unfolded state of the machine and you can play around with it :)

Ok let's start
It should take approximately 12 hours to put everything together.
From step 1 to 4 : 2-4 hours

Here is a timelapse overview from Gert G. : google drive link

Know the parts

Firstly, have a look at all the part and learn what everything is.

foot-front left
foot-front right
foot-rear left
foot-rear right
hinge-outer left
hinge-outer right
hinge-inner left
hinge-Inner right
z-motor-bracket left
z-motor-bracket right
y-idler
y-motor
y-carriage
belt-clamp
x-end motor
x-end idler
z-top left
z-top right
x-carriage
extruder-idler
board mounts
underplate
reprap.org plate

How to insert a T-nut

Tightening torque : 2.5 Nm (+/- 5%)

<videoflash>9CAiVmfO2mk|320|240</videoflash>

Base Frame

Rear Base

x1 x1 x2 x4 m4x8 x4 t-nut

exploded view
tips : use the other extrusions to help you while adding the first two nuts
assembled

<videoflash>R-FKKoWC1hw|320|240</videoflash>

Front Base

x1 x1 x2 x4 m4x8 x4 t-nut

exploded
tips: keep it flush by pushing the extrusion in from the flat side of the foot
assembled

<videoflash>zFjVM068mtI|320|240</videoflash>

Base Frame

x1 x1 x1 x1

x4 x10 m4x8 x10 t-nut

slide the hinge-inners on two 300mm extrusions
it's not yet necessary to lock the hinges

Y-idler

x1 m3x20 x2 (603zz) x2 m3 washer x2 m4x8 x2 t-nut

tips : it's easy to add everything while holding the y-idler in vertical position
then add it on the frame, don't fully tighten the T-nut, you will need to move it slightly later to center it

Y-motor

A part of the wiring depend of the combination of electronic board and power supply, for other version : AzteegX1_240W, AzteegX1_120W

x1 x1 x2 x5 x1 x1 pulley

x7 ferules heat-shrink sleeve x1 x3 x3

add the male plug with 2 m3x8 and 2 m3 nut
add the pulley on the motor shaft, and lock it with the grubscrew on the flat of the shaft
add the motor with 2 or 3 m3x8
sometimes the pulley shape can vary, don't worry about it, as long as the flange is aligned along the plastic
cut some wires : 1 green wire 18WG of 10cm, one end with ferule, the other end just stripped (male plug Ground to power supply Ground)
crimp the ferules on the wires
eventually add a drop of solder to make a perfect connection
don't forget to insulate the ferules with the heatshrink sleeve
the green wire in place, now to the red/black ones !
1 red wire of 9cm, 1 black of 6cm 18AWG, both ends with ferule (male plug Live/Neutral to switch Live/Neutral)
1 red and 1 black wire 18AWG of 10cm, one end with ferule, the other end just stripped (blue-switch Live/Neutral to power supply Live/Neutral)
add the t-nuts
put the big blue switch in the rear-foot
now you can lock the Y-motor while pushing it against the same rear foot (the two small bumps helps to center the Y-motor)
pay attention to really lock the t-nut near the plug, as it is easy for now and later you will push against it when you plug the power cable in

Z-axis

Caution : on the aluminium extrusion some corners are better than others, take care to choose one that slide well for the X-motor and X-idler, keep it in mind then when assembling the Z-right and Z-left.

Z-Left / Z-Right

x1 x1 x1 x1

x2 x4 x4

Do the same for the other side

Hinges

Hinge principle :

x2 x2

Do the same for the other side :)

Z-Motors

x2 x4

+vinyl coupling x2

pushed half-length on the motor shaft
then add the motor with two m3x8 bolts
pay attention to the wires orientation

Z-endstop

x1 (with 25cm blue wires for z-endstop, fix with an m3x8 or simply use a glue gun)

people usually twist the wires of the endstop and motors, to reduce interferences and make them more tidy
the lever is oriented toward the left (exterior)

Underplate

Power Supply

This part depend of your electronic configuration : AzteegX1-240W or AzteegX1-120W or as for the actual v1.1 : Melzi + 120W power supply

x1 x2 x2 x1 x6 x6

Z-axis 2

x6 x6

Now you can push the hinge against the plate and lock the two Z at right angle with the frame

X-axis

X-motor

The holes for mounting the motor are wide in order to be able to use them for adding tension on the X belt. Thus mount the motor as close as possible to the extrusion side in order to be able to push the motor the other way arround at the tensionning step.

motor pushed on the right = un-tensioned

motor pushed on the left = add tension to the X-belt

x1 x3 x3 x1 (50cm wires) x1

x1 (with 50cm red 26AWG wires for x-endstop, fix with an m3x8 or glue gun)

(the motor can be mounted on either side of the part but don't forget to adjust the firmware correspondingly!)
then glue the endstop

X-idler

x1 x2 m3x8 x2

x1 m3x12 x2 x1

to add the idler bearing easily, start by pushing the bolt, add one washer, the bearing, turn it upside down and add the second washer by using it to push the bearing upward, to finish the bolt is screwed into the plastic and don't need a nut
after having checked that the smooth rods can slide without force in their holes, add an m3 nut in each, it will be trapped and will serve to hold two m3x8 bolt to lock the smooth-rods

After wiring, put the two x-ends in place (impregnate the printed parts with oil for better sliding) and add the smooth-rod without forgetting the three linear bearings.

Extruder-fan

(Optional)

x1 x1 m3x16 x1

If the bolt don't screw in the plastic, add a nut, but this one can be tricky to put in place.

Extruder-idler

For previous version using a geared PG35L see FoldaRap_PG35L

x1 x1

x1 x1 x2

x1 Nema14 (50cm) x3 x1 (just one)

x2 x2 x2

start by adding the M5 nut
if the entrance seems a little rough, you can make a small chamfer
add the pneumatic fitting
then the idler bearing
add the drive-gear on the motor shaft (make a flat if there isn't one)
(or like that, either way are possibles)
Then add the motor and the extruder-idler on the x-end-idler (which is sandwiched between both parts)
and finish by the springs

Top-frame

x1 x1 x1 x1

x8 x8

X-carriage

x1 x2 x3 (LM6UU or igus RJMP-01-06) x1 (700mm, longest of the two belts) x7

don't forget to add the linear bearing/bushing on the smooth-rods

<videoflash>0r0LzsToHcs|320|240</videoflash>

Now you can add some tension to the x-belt

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Z-rods

x4 x2

turn the rods in the x-ends to push them in the vinyl coupling

<videoflash>iZKFV5miQEk|320|240</videoflash>

Great ! You are almost done !

Have a pause, you need to be relaxed for the next step, or you can also just head to the end :)

Hotend

x1

cartridge heater

thermistor 70cm 26awg
fan prolongated to match 70cm
see also the emaker huxley hotend

To prepare the heatsink you will need to remove some fins, drill a few holes and file a flat face (can be hand-made with a file, a dremel or machined)
remove the fins by twisting them with a plier (found it easier and less dangerous than using a flush side cutter)
then use a template to drill the holes (for 3mm bolts)
make the bottom of the heatsink flat (until no more black is apparent, like on the picture below) to make a good contact with the aluminium block that will be cooled
don't forget to put the ptfe tube in the pneumatic fitting, before adding the heatsink (the tube will fit snuggly between the fins)
add heatsink grease
press firmly
engage both bolts
finish to tighten them (dont require much force as the taped hole is in the aluminium block)
the resistance have been replaced by a cartridge heater, but the logic is the same

don't forget to tighten the hotend while being heated to 200°C (later, once you will have wired everying on the electronic board)

x3 x3

You may need to add a nut to each bolt if spacing is needed between the heatsink and the linear bearings

Electronic Board

Previous instructions for the AzteegX1 / Melzi

x1 x1 board-mount x2 m3x8 x2 m4x8 x2 t-nut

each board-mount is mounted to the board with a m3x8 and will use a t-nut to be held on the frame
you can put the board on the side you want but it is maybe better for the cable to put it near the y-motor (left of the picture)

Wiring

Now lets plug everything to the board !

The Minitronics_10 page is well documented and the wiring should be quite easy with the molex connectors.

It seems to use the same voltage reference as for a pololu (so we need to tune them to 0.4V, 0.45V)

Order/lenght :

Endstops

endstops use the S and - pins of the connectors
Y-endstop (green 25cm)
Z-endstop (blue 25cm)
X-endstop (red 50cm)

Motors

Y-motor
Z-motors
X-motor
Extruder-motor

Hotend(s)

thermistor (blue 70cm)
heater (red 70cm)

Fans

hotend fan (red/black 60cm) : on the fan connector of the board or directly on the psu

- (optionnal) extruder-stepper fan : same
- (optional) printed-part cooling fan: on the "cooling fan" screw terminal (turned on by sending Mcode "M106 Sxxx" (xxx being between 0 and 255), turned off by "M107" but Slic3r automate this)

Bed

Finish by this one, as it is moving, the wires need to be above all the other wires.

thermistor (blue 35cm)
peltier

Voilà !

It may be a little messy at first but once finished everything is tidy and protected in the base of the machine :)

Tidying

spiral wrapping band : for the wires that came out of the base (30cm left / 60cm right).

(image)

Y-axis

Bed-plate

If you have an aluminium heated bed look at this page : FoldaRap_Heated-Bed

x1 x3 x3

add the 3 countersunk m3x30 and lock them with m3 nut

Y-carriage

Other versions : FoldaRap1.0_y-carriage

x1 x3 x4

x1 x1 (600mm) x2 x2 x2

x3 x3

hold the linear bearing in place with zip-ties
put the m3 nuts in the y-belt-clamp
clamp the belt in the middle of it's length, try to clamp it on the middle of the belt-clamp too
add springs on the bed's bolts
place the y-carriage
add the three m3 self locking nut (nylock)
tighten them a little (real leveling will be done just after)

Y-axis

x2 x1 (with 32cm green wires for y-endstop) x6

Slide the smooth rods through one side
then through the Y-carriage
and finish on the other side
The Y-motor was centered by the rear-foot-right, to align the Y-idler too check that the carriage run smoothly. By moving it will tend to center the Y-idler (or look that it seems at an equal distance from each front-foot. Once satisfied you can lock the Y-idler in place.
Make a loop at each end of the belt with zip-ties (pay attention to the orientation of the zip-ties)
pass it through the y-idler
and y-motor
why the orientation is important
Tighten the belt by closing the loops with zip-ties, then trim everything (video of belt tensioning [1])
fix the Y-endstop on the smooth-rod with a zip-tie or glue it on the front-foot side

Tape (5-10 min)

Once the Y-axis is fitted it's easier to apply kapton (polyimide) or blue tape (outside masking tape, uv resistant and with acrylic adhesive)

<videoflash>MdCMMt7siy4</videoflash>

Leveling the bed and zeroing

The Z-zero is made when leveling the bed.

Start by roughly leveling it
then move the nozzle to the lowest point
and adjust the 3 screws to level it regarding that height (by turning them until the homing move stop lowering the bed)
repeat on each corners so the zero is exactly when the nozzle stop touching the bed (true for the four corners+center)

I like to start with the X direction at the right bolt, then with the two at the left

Here is a video to show what I mean by "the homing move stop lowering the bed" <videoflash>35Xv_R8U_hU</videoflash>

"Bad" (the bolts need to be tightened)

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Once the plan is set from left to right you can check front/end

after that it's supposed to be leveled but may need few more tweaking for the right corners

Software side

Skeinforge : you will only have to add a little offset (altitude), to have the desired height for the first layer, usually the same as your layer height.
Slic3r : leave z-offset at 0, it will add one layer height automatically (you still may have to adjust it slightly to fine tune the Z-zero, depending on where your endstop have been glued).

Another advantage of that : by moving to the center of the bed from the zero height, the nozzle is also wiped by the side of the bed from any purged plastic ;-)

Go go go first print !!!

This article will probably help you along your first print :)

http://www.sarfata.org/3d-printing/2013/04/First-Steps-In-3D-Printing-With-Foldarap/

Also have a look at the User Manual

FoldaRap Build Manual

Contents

General tips

Know the parts

How to insert a T-nut

Base Frame

Rear Base

Front Base

Base Frame

Y-idler

Y-motor

Z-axis

Z-Left / Z-Right

Hinges

Z-Motors

Z-endstop

Underplate

Power Supply

Z-axis 2

X-axis

X-motor

X-idler

Extruder-fan

Extruder-idler

Top-frame

X-carriage

Z-rods

Great ! You are almost done !

Hotend

Electronic Board

Wiring

Endstops

Motors

Hotend(s)

Fans

Bed

Tidying

Y-axis

Bed-plate

Y-carriage

Y-axis

Tape (5-10 min)

Leveling the bed and zeroing

Software side

Go go go first print !!!

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