SAE All-Metal Hot End
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| Description | documenting a generic tool/artpiece
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| FILE ID# | TYPE | DESCRIPTION | AVAILABLE FORMATS | CREATED/RESERVED BY |
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| Your-File-Name | SOLID MODEL ASSEMBLY | These are CAD files for the Solid Model Assembly | .xml.zip, .stl.zip | --Example User 12:00, Today's Date 20xx (UTC) |
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Please edit this and click the links to put in your own files! --Sebastien Bailard 08:34, 10 September 2010 (UTC)
I'm planning on making a stainless steel hot end and of course I'm just going to go to the local hardware store which doesn't really have much in the way of metric stuff.
So I'm going to be drilling out my stainless bolt with a 1/8" drill bit. Do I need to get a 5/16" bolt or will 1/4" do? When I tap a 1/4-20 hole, I like to use a 13/64" drill bit, which implies that the wall will be 13/64"-1/8"=13-8/64=5/64" or about 1mm wall all the way around, less any eccentricity. Which I think should be enough, even given that I'll be using a drill press instead of a lathe. A 5/16-18 bolt uses a 17/64 tap size, which is 1/16 larger, or about 3.5mm extra, so 1.7 wall thickness under the threads, assuming an exactly centered hole. (which there will be, b/c I'll start the hole on that end.) That should be enough to ream?
if I want to ream it out to give a tapered hole, do I need to get a 5/16" bolt? Nophead's bolt was reamed almost completely out, I don't think I want to get that close, as I need to torque the acorn nut and aluminum heater block onto the end.
Do I need to a tapered hole? Nophead seems to think that tapered holes are just magic, and it's hard to argue with his results, so I'm inclined to say yes, I do need to have a tapered hole for reliable operations.
I suppose that it depends on the slope of the reamer. The reamer I found says 1/8" to 1/2", and the cutting edge is 3 3/4" long. My heater block is 1/2" thick. The depth of thread need for the acorn nut on the end will be greater for a 5/16" nut than a 1/4" one.
The length covered by the nut and heater block will be the molten zone, with the melt zone (which is what I'm trying to taper) just above that. So the tapered area should extend, say, 1/2" above there. So about 1 1/2" of tapered area. ~3/16" reamed out on the end of the bolt. Okay then, Looks like 1/4" is out, b/c 3/16>5/64. How deeply can a 5/16" bolt be reamed, assuming it's exactly centered and we touch the thread on the outside? Only ~3/4"! Something's wrong somewhere?
I'm trying to make the melt zone shorter, not the molten zone! Do I need to find a reamer with a lesser slope then? I'm not sure that such a thing exists. Could be emulated on a lathe probably though. Except I don't have a lathe, and wouldn't know how to do that if I did, it seems like it'd be fairly difficult. Ideally I suppose I'd make a custom tapered bit, drill out the end to 2/8" instead of 1/8", and then use the custom bit to add a taper just to the melt zone, above the heater block.
I have no idea how I'd go about making a custom tapered drill bit though! Or where I'd look for a reamer with a gentler slope, something like 1/16" per inch. Maybe I should drill partway through the heater block before threading it so the acorn nut sits up inside of it? That'd maybe get the total length (acorn+heater=molten zone) down to 1/2", but even that would only leave 1/4" of taper beyond that, and I think the melt zone would extend above that?
If I can't taper it, I may as well just use 1/4", but will it work as well?
-- Fools! I will destroy you ALL! Ask me how! link
Note: (1) Planning to destroying us all, and (2) thinking our selves as fools may perhaps violate reprap's official policies. --Sebastien Bailard 04:34, 19 November 2010 (UTC)
