PrusaBuildNotesBraino

From RepRap
Revision as of 07:56, 23 November 2011 by Prof braino (talk | contribs) (Created page with '= summary To catch my build notes for my Prusa Build Autumn 2011 = High level project is to implement an alternative processor, specifically the Parallax Propeller per this dis…')
(diff) ← Older revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff)
Jump to: navigation, search

summary To catch my build notes for my Prusa Build Autumn 2011

High level project is to implement an alternative processor, specifically the Parallax Propeller per this discussion http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?129448-Prop-based-CNC-3D-printer

In order to establish a baseline as to what constitutes the current 3D-Printer (as of 20110701), I opted to build a unit for comparison. I settled on a modified Mendel Prusa http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa

This is a log of the specifics I encountered. The brick and mortar locations are in the Chicago Northwest Suburbs.

Mechanical

Printed parts from Sacha at Pumping Station One http://pumpingstationone.org/tag/reprap/

Rods from McMaster-Carr (they delivered to my door!)

Fasterners from Jordan Supply (there's more than listed on the web site) http://www.jordanindustrial.com/

Hot End

MakerGear - the instructions are not organized clearly. I made some major mistakes despite reading them first several times, and following quite closely.

http://www.makergear.com/products/operators-pack "Operator pack" and "Hot End Pack" and (there was third term) all refer to the assembly that holds the heater coil and extruder tip. It cost $75 and requires Wooden Mounting Pieces - Wade for $6.00 USD. It did not fit the modified Wades extruder without modification. (the screw holes were off by about 2mm).

<include the full list of comments?>

Electronics

I opted for a pre-assembled one piece mainboard http://store.solidoodle.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=52

This needed a two pin shunt header soldered to the AUTO RST labeled on the skilk screen to enable Autoreset. Shunting the jumper allows the PC to restart the Arduino for programming, etc. Removing the shunt (default) allow the unit to operate stand alone; that is, it will not reboot when the unit is disconnected or reconnected to the PC print.