CARP Box Build Manual

CARP Box Documentation

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Introduction

Welcome on the building manual page for CARP Box 3D Printer. On following pages you will find step-by-step walktrough the construction of the printer, wiring electronics, firmware settings and calibration, so you can achieve the best performance of your printer.

Warning

Most of the pictures were taken during construction of first prototype. There are few minor changes stated in red colour against what you can see on the picture. If you are not sure what to do, please follow the text or contact me on thorgal(at)atlas(dot)cz.

During the assembly many screws are fixed directly to the threads in aluminium sheet. Tighten them carefully, as threads in aluminium can be easily damaged.

Please read the complete manual before you will even order any parts or start construction works.

Disclaimer

I am sorry for any mistakes that may appear in any documentations for the printer and would like to ask you kindly to give me a notice of any problem you will find on thorgal(at)atlas(dot)cz. Despite my genuine regret I cannot be held responsible for any loses or injuries caused by assembling or operation of the CARP BOX 3D printer.

Preparations

Whole Printer (including extruder, which is not part of this assembly manual) was designed to be made of laser cut metal sheets. Preferably 3 and 4mm thick aluminium, although steel sheet may add some sturdiness in exchange for additional weight.

Blueprint should be sufficient for any company providing laser cutting, but some of them may have difficulties to cut smaller holes than thickness of the material. In such case ask them for central hole of size of the laser beam, so you can drill them afterwards.

Even without drilling most of the parts have to be machined afterwards as many have holes with M3 a and M4 treads and holes for countersunk heads of the screws. These holes are marked in the blueprint. For all of above reasons, aluminium is easier to be machined at home with nothing more than just an electric drill.

Afterwards the edges have to be sanded. Partially to remove the excess material from laser cutting and also to make them less sharp. Only exception are mounting holes for LM8UU, which should stay as sharp edged as possible.

Eventually the printer parts may undergo a paint or some other sort of surface treatment (this manual shows raw aluminium).

Before the assembly, all parts suggested by the BoM should be collected.

Tools

• For drilling and preparing threads, electric hand driller (running both directions is required, drill press recommended).
• Drills of diameter 2.5mm, 3.2mm
• Screw taps of size M3 and M4 and tap wrench
• Countersunk bit
• Sander and sand paper
• Needle Files
• Phillips screwdriver of right size (or other, if you use different screw heads)
• Allen key of right size (for pulleys and Z spring joint)
• Pliers
• Cutter or scissors
• Tweezer (some nuts are hard to install with bare hand)
• Calliper
• Soldering Iron

Construction

Carriage

Carriage disassembled

Picture	Quantity	Description	Comments
	1	Carriage Plate	Cutted M3 threads
	1	Carriage Holder	Contrasunk holes
	2	Carriage Holder Support
	4	Belt Holder
	4	Belt Lock	Either for GT2 or T2.5 Timing Belt
	4	LM8UU Bearing Holder
	4	LM8UU Bearing
	2	M3x10 Phillips Countersunk Screw
	6	M3x10 Phillips Round-pan Screw
	12	M3x16 Phillips Round-pan Screw
	2	M3x20 Phillips Round-pan Screw
	4	M3x25 Phillips Round-pan Screw
	8	M3 Hex Nut

Place LM8UUs on Carriage plate and fasten them with 12pcs of M3x16 round-pan screws. Bottom holders will have screws only in the centre holes. Outer holes will stay empty, distance between Carriage plate and LM8UU holders should be 9-9.5mm

Put 2 Belt holders on left and 2 on right side of the back side of carriage plate (big round corner facing centre upward) and tighten them with 1pc M3x10 round-pan screws in outer holes each.

From the front side of the plate insert carriage holder with countersunk holes facing up. Through inner holes of belt holders put 2pcs M3x20 round-pan screws. insert 2pcs of M3 hex nuts into holes in carriage holder and tighten them together.

Put 2 supports on each side of the carriage. Their locks should fit into carriage holder. Tighten Carriage holder with supports by 2pcs of M3x10 Countersunk screws against M3 hex nuts in supports. Now put 4pcs M3x25 round-pan screws through outer holes of bottom LM8UU holders and tighten them against M3 hex nuts inserted in supports.

Put 2 GT2 or T2.5 Belt lock on left and 2 on right side of the back side of plate (L shape around belt holders) and tighten each with 2pc M3x10 round-pan screws.