HackerBot User Manual
Contents
WARNINGS
Do not proceed to use the printer if you have any doubts after reading this manual
If you notice that the printer is broken or is not working properly report it
We makes no warranty of any kind with regard to this material. We shall not be liable for errors contained herein of for incidental of consequential damages in connection with the performance or use of this material.
Introduction
Hackerbot is a free open source project based on RepRap's projects.
It's a 3D printer with a 4 slot head for multiple extruder and extra tools and was designed to be solid, easily modifiable and made with quality components
Hackerbot base configuration is with dual extruder and can print materials like ABS, PLA, Nylon and HIPS.
Materials
ABS
When using ABS plastic modeled parts are strong and durable. ABS also ensures you’ll be able to drill, tap, sand, and paint your creations.
ABS need an heated chamber (about 60°) or a heatbed (110°C)
ABS melts at 230°C to 260°C
Drawbacks
- ABS can absorb moisture from the air
- Large objects suffer warping
- Tall objects delaminate if chamber temperature is low (25°C or less)
PLA
Polylactic acid (PLA) is a bio-degradable polymer that can be produced from lactic acid, which can be fermented from crops
PLA melts at a lower temperature: around 180°C to 220°C
PLA plastic is brittle and its difficult to re-work with drills, sand, etc. but we advice to use PLA if you mind to do artistic parts because of the higher detail than ABS.
Also PLA suffer less warping and heatbed is not needed
Drawbacks: PLA can absorb moisture from the air
HIPS
High Impact Polystyrene is very similar to ABS in its properties.
It's used as material support because dissolves in D-Lemonene.
Nylon
Nylon based co-polymer can be used in FDM printers. Nylon can be used for 3D Printing applications where needed excellent surface bonding, reduced water absorption, tear resistance and dye absorption
Software
HackerBot LCD guides you through operational tasks from a user interface on the front panel of the printer.
Using "Print from SD card" you can select the 3D file to be printed.
3D needs to be sliced and converted in gcode and for this task you can use these free software:
Without the LCD you should connect with an USB cable an run one of these programs:
and manually control and send gcode to the printer
Slic3r manual
http://manual.slic3r.org/Intro.html
Printer Calibration
- work area: 280mm x 280mm
- maximum height: 250mm
- center of the bed is at X150 Y150
- Acceleration max: 3600mm/s2
- X/Y velocity max: 250mm/s
- Z velocity max: 10mm/s
RepRap motion calculator (Joseph Prusa): http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/
Printer TESTs
- Check NTC/Thermocouple
- Check motor direction
- Check endstops (M119) and trying HOMING (G28)
- Move manually head on the PrintBed and fine tune the Z: nozzles should touch the printbed
- Check that the Z zero is OK in all the four corner of the printbed
- Check Z axis doing a G1 Z[max] (ex: G1 Z200)
- Home and double check that hotends hover the PrintBed
- Check Heaters and HeadBed (if any)
- Check extruders and try to extrude some material
Test print area and basic motion
Slice and print: File:Square-hex-circle Hackerbot printer test.STL
This is a pretty good test to check the printer.
Test rapid moves / max speed
Slice and print: File:Vertex-max speed Hackerbot printer test.STL
The printer should move correctly with rapids not loosing steps.
Test print quality
ABS:
PLA:
Firmware upgrade
Firmware is ErikZalm Marlin
example firmware for v1.3 can be downloaded here: File:Marlin.rar