Very Messy Example
This is the page for the State College Rep Rap User Group's (SCRUG) Beta 3D printer. The printer was developed, assembled, and is currently operated by students in Penn State's Engineering Design 497J course and members of the 3D printing club. Our goal is to continuously tweak the printer until it is ready for distribution and sale to other departments in the University and local schools and businesses.
Most of the information below will be incorporated in the LaserCut Mendel Assembly page.
|Date||Modification / Problem|
|19 March 2014||Beta has been working well for a while.|
|12/05/2013||Unplug, wait for 10sec and plug back in if there is a an issue with no connectivity. Not reliable for long prints.|
|12/03/2013||Printer is in working condition. - Dimitar|
|11/16/2013||hot tip is currently out of the extruder and needs new extruder and hot tip to function properly.- crosby|
|09/03/2013||The printer needs new electronics and extruder|
|Unknown||Both alpa and beta may experience extrusion problems that are not temperature related, please follow these guides to fix it Trouble Shooting Guide|
Staging Area for Instructions
The information below will be where our group first posts instructions for the Mendel unit before moving it to LaserCut Mendel Assembly page. This information will most likely be incomplete and/or not in a logical order. If you are building a Laser-Cut Mendel, got to the link above for the instructions.
The X-axis of the Mendel holds the extruder and allows it to move laterally left and right. The X-axis jig is also part of the Z-axis as the entire X-axis moves up and down along the Z-axis.
- Gather the laser cut parts shown in the picture to the right. Also, have the nuts, bolts and washers bag close at hand.
- First, assemble the “right hand side” (in reference to the picture in step 1). Be sure to start with the larger piece facing the way it is shown in this picture.
- Put washers on the screws (see note) and push screws through “side pieces” and through the base piece as shown.
- Note: You may want to put 3 washers on each of the outer screws if you are using the screws shown in the image(the picture only shows 1 on each). This is because the screws being used have an un-threaded portion that will not allow the pieces to tighten unless extra washers are used. It might be easier, however, to add the extra washers in step 6.
- Flip the piece over so that the threaded part of the screws point up. See here.
- Place large nut in receptacle and then put the wood cap over top. See here.
- Put washers and nuts on the screws. See here
- Note: As noted in step 3, you may need to add extra washers here in order for the nut to tighten properly.
- Note: Two of the washers may not fit all the way down onto the screw (See here). To rectify this, grind or cut one edge of the washer so that it will sit flush with the wooden base
- Now assemble 5 bearing bars as shown here. Only put one bearing on each of the bars for now. Also be sure that there is a washer on either side of the bearing so that it can move freely. This will be important for the rest of the build; if you have a bearing, it should always be sandwiched between 2 washers, unless noted otherwise.
- Take 2 of the bearing bars you just made and put them through the slot shown in this picture. Then assemble the bearing on the other side of the bar.
- Now assemble the 2 belt bearings and attach them as shown here.
- You should now have this: front, right, left, back.
Rather than use the TechZone electronics layout and use the two boards they gave us, we decided to re-drill one board, allowing us to have all of our electronics in one single location; the advantage? Less cables to run, a cleaner and more organized machine, and easy access to all of the boards for adjusting pots, accessing reset buttons, etc. Pictures and more detailed layouts along with models of the modified electronics mounting board to come soon.
Settings as of 1/17/2012: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:PSURUGRepsnapper_beta_settings.png
John 18:27, 19 March 2014 (PDT)