Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn

From RepRap
Revision as of 07:42, 1 February 2013 by Sjw107273131 (talk | contribs) (无线/蓝牙)
Jump to: navigation, search
Version specific info
v1.5.7 | v1.5.6 | v1.5.4 | v1.5.3 | v1.3 | v1.2 | v1.1 (UM v1.1 PCB Fix) | v1.0
Crystal Clear action run.png
Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB

Release status: Working

UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG
Description
A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield
License
Author
Contributors
Based-on
Categories
CAD Models
Eagle
External Link

Eagle与BOM文件下载: media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip

v1.5.6 电路板

警告:适用于v1.5.6的UltimakerPCB板,不适合更早的版本。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。

该PCB板与包括RAMPS在内的其他Pololu-based electronics类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。

哪里能买到?

这里卖 Ultimaker 3D printing shop

特色

  • 基于Arduino Mega
  • 电机采用四路JST插头连接.
  • 适合Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver
  • 兼容Pololu stepper driver boards
  • 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)
  • 改变跳线可以配置步长
  • 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)
  • 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展
  • 15V到19V的工作电压
  • 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。
  • 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头(movie here
  • 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。
  • 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关
  • 易于热电偶的接线
  • 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电
  • 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口
  • LCD背景灯可以由软件调整
  • 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口
  • 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。

新版特色

  • 兼容UltiController

- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack. - Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting - 100 uF connection to Vcc2 - High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly - Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch

设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。

感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).

Pinout of Extension connectors

Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector

EXP1
GND 5 (PWM) 16 (TX2) 17 (RX2) 18 (TX1)
5V 6 (PWM) 21 (SCL) 20 (SDA) 19 (RX1)


EXP2
GND 38 40 42 50 MISO
5V 3.3V 51 MOSI 53 SS 52 SCK


EXP3 PWM
5V GND 13 12 11 10 9 8


EXP4 - Unmarked Analog
A12 (Digital 66) A14 (Digital 68) A13 (Digital 67) A15 (Digital 69) 5V GND


Analog
3.3V 5V GND GND VIN (Arduino supply) A0 (Digital 54) A1 (Digital 55) A2 (Digital 56) A3 (Digital 57) A4 (Digital 58) A5 (Digital 59) A6 (Digital 60) A7 (Digital 61)

需要的工具

Soldering requirements.jpg

  • 烙铁
  • 焊锡
  • 剪线钳
  • 小锯条

第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers

These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.

We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.

The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards.

Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:
RemovingUltimakerShield.png

When you're done, it should look like this:
thumb left

Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.

拓展模块

Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块

DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。

设计样例

图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn


文件下载:

在v1.5.4上增加该模块

这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置

注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。

约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.
Note: follow this specific order:

  1. Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.
  2. Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.
  3. Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.
  4. If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.
  5. Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.

The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively.

The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).

不工作怎么办

  1. 确信你正在运行Ultimaker固件
  2. 加热热电偶,检测温度为0度以下。说明你把热电偶的连线接反了。
  3. 温度值不对:检查那三个电阻移除没(R23、R21、R4)。
  4. 温度值是499.9度:检查连线是否正确,接线是否牢固。
  5. 温度值波动太大?检查C1、C9、C10安装没有。
  6. The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.
  7. 用自己的固件?Ultimaker热电偶模块中使用的AD597与AD595完全兼容。确保AD595_THERMOCOUPLE被定义了,关闭对热敏电阻的测量。
  8. 如果你调换了黑线与信号线,LED灯可能也亮,但是这并不表明你连线正确。错误的接线可能会损坏你的热电偶模块。
  9. 热电偶一直显示室内温度,当用打火机加热时也不改变:AD597芯片当前处于自测模式。如果热电偶的+ -输入端电阻很低,它不会显示热电偶温度,而是显示芯片本身的温度。把温热的手指按在芯片上检查,如果值迅速改变,说明确实是这个原因。用一个接线端延长热电偶的接线,或是在接线端加焊个电阻。

LCD

Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG

The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained on the Ultimaker wiki (thanks to Bernhard!).

This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.

SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD

Ultimaker SD card0.9.jpg

Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.

IMG 0725 -1024x768-.jpg

Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.

It is documented on his blog:
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/

无线/蓝牙

Jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg

Jan-Jaap开发了一个蓝牙模块用来实现无线打印。

访问他博客上的文档:
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/


FILE ID# TYPE DESCRIPTION AVAILABLE FORMATS CREATED/RESERVED BY
Ultimaker SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch Eagle CAD files These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch --Erik Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011
Ultimaker SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd Eagle CAD files These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd --Erik Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011

修改

  • There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.
  • 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.
  • 发现错误请及时告知我们!