Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn

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Revision as of 04:49, 1 February 2013 by Sjw107273131 (talk | contribs) (新版特色)
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Version specific info
v1.5.7 | v1.5.6 | v1.5.4 | v1.5.3 | v1.3 | v1.2 | v1.1 (UM v1.1 PCB Fix) | v1.0
Crystal Clear action run.png
Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB

Release status: Working

UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG
Description
A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield
License
Author
Contributors
Based-on
Categories
CAD Models
External Link

Eagle Files and BOM: media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip

v1.5.6 电路板

警告:适用于v1.5.6的UltimakerPCB板,不适合更早的版本。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。

该PCB板与包括RAMPS在内的其他Pololu-based electronics类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。

哪里能买到?

这里卖 Ultimaker 3D printing shop

特色

  • 基于Arduino Mega
  • 电机采用四路JST插头连接.
  • 适合Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver
  • 兼容Pololu stepper driver boards
  • 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)
  • 改变跳线可以配置步长
  • 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)
  • 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展
  • 15V到19V的工作电压
  • 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。
  • 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头(movie here
  • 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。
  • 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关
  • 易于热电偶的接线
  • 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电
  • 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口
  • LCD背景灯可以由软件调整
  • 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口
  • 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。

新版特色

  • 兼容UltiController

- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack. - Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting - 100 uF connection to Vcc2 - High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly - Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch

设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。

感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).

Pinout of Extension connectors

Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector

EXP1
GND 5 (PWM) 16 (TX2) 17 (RX2) 18 (TX1)
5V 6 (PWM) 21 (SCL) 20 (SDA) 19 (RX1)


EXP2
GND 38 40 42 50 MISO
5V 3.3V 51 MOSI 53 SS 52 SCK


EXP3 PWM
5V GND 13 12 11 10 9 8


EXP4 - Unmarked Analog
A12 (Digital 66) A14 (Digital 68) A13 (Digital 67) A15 (Digital 69) 5V GND


Analog
3.3V 5V GND GND VIN (Arduino supply) A0 (Digital 54) A1 (Digital 55) A2 (Digital 56) A3 (Digital 57) A4 (Digital 58) A5 (Digital 59) A6 (Digital 60) A7 (Digital 61)

需要的工具

Soldering requirements.jpg

  • 烙铁
  • 焊锡
  • 剪线钳
  • 小锯条

第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers

These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.

We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.

The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards.

Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:
RemovingUltimakerShield.png

When you're done, it should look like this:
thumb left

Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.

拓展模块

热电偶传感器模块

When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board.

Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB

Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only! If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).

The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.

UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg

Note: follow this specific order:

  1. Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.
  2. Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.
  3. Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.
  4. If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.
  5. Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.

The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively.

The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).

不工作怎么办

  1. Always make sure you're running the Ultimaker firmware.
  2. The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.
  3. The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).
  4. The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.
  5. Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.
  6. The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.
  7. Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.
  8. If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.
  9. The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.

设计样例

热电偶传感器模块

TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG

Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn

Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png

Files:

LCD

The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained on the Ultimaker wiki (thanks to Bernhard!).

This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers.
Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG
. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.

SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD

Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.

Ultimaker SD card0.9.jpg

Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.

IMG 0725 -1024x768-.jpg

It is documented on his blog:
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/

无线/蓝牙

Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing.

Jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg

It is documented on his blog:
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/


FILE ID# TYPE DESCRIPTION AVAILABLE FORMATS CREATED/RESERVED BY
Ultimaker SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch Eagle CAD files These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch --Erik Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011
Ultimaker SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd Eagle CAD files These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd --Erik Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011

Changes

  • There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.
  • 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.
  • 发现错误请及时告知我们!