TIPS AND TRICKS
When building a reprap, certain issues arise that may not be covered in the rest of the Wiki.
Here, we will attempt to gather some of the lessons learned that don't really fall within other pages.
The easiest way to cut the metal rods is with a chop saw/cut off saw made for cutting metal. The saw will need an abrasive disk blade. Harbor Freight sells one of these saws for $30-$50.
Lithium grease makes a good lubricant for printed bushings.
-If your belts are a bit loose and removing gears and/or belt clamps becomes a time consuming task use this method. Using 3 small zip ties, loosely loop 2 of them around the belt you wish to tighten and zip them just enough to catch. Use the third zip tie and run it inside both of the other two. Again loosely zip it. Now, return to the two around the belt. Tighten them about 2-3cm apart firmly. You should have one loose tie remaining, connecting the other two. Ensure all the slack is on the side of the pulley that you are trying to tighten and slowly tighten the last zip tie until it is firmly in place and pulling the other two together. Clip the ends and enjoy your nice tight belts.--MrJohn 23:20, 9 April 2011 (UTC)
-To make the reprap quieter, there are some possibilities:
1. The pots of the electronics set just high grade that no steps are lost. If too much current "pops" the electronics of the steps very hard, with less electricity so the machine runs smoother
2. Thick blanket, good rubber feet, or putting earplugs underneath the feet can work to reduce the vibrations on the table.
3. All screws should be fixed, loose screws generate vibrations.
4. Infill should if possible go to a co-linear axis in order to avoid many interpolations (movement of the stair stepper motors)
5. However Tangen turn the frame with foam rubber to protect against vibrations (Cover and secure with cable ties)