Sanguinololu/es

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Sanguinololu

Release status: working

Sanguinololu.jpg
Description
Release Version 1.3a
License
unknown
Author
Contributors
Based-on
Categories
CAD Models
Eagle
External Link


Pagina en Traducción

Introducción

<videoflash type="vimeo">23472226|384|288</videoflash>

Sanguinololu es una solución electrónica todo en uno, de bajo costo para RepRap y otros dispositivos CNC. Presenta un clon de sanguino a bordo utilizando el ATMEGA644P aunque un ATMEGA1284 puede ser fácilmente usado. Sus cuatro ejes son accionados por un controlador de pasos con pines compatibles con un Pololu.

La tarjeta cuenta con una amigable puerto de expansión para desarrollo que soporta I2C, SPI, UART, así como también unos pocos pines ADC. Todas los 14 pines de expansión pueden ser utilizados también como GPIO (General Purpose Input Output - entradas y salidas de propósito general).

La tarjeta esta diseñada para ser flexible a la disponibilidad de fuentes de poder de usuario, aceptando fuentes de poder (PSU) ATX para alimentar la tarjeta o instalandole un kit de regulación de voltaje para ser utilizado con cualquier fuente de poder desde 7 a 30 V.

Ultimas Actualizaciones

Ultima revisión:

Versión 1.3b - Actualizado Abril 4, 2012

Con esta revisión el Sanguinololu es actualizado con componentes SMT, dejando espacio en la tarjeta para mas conectores y montaje en una sola cara. La tarjeta es compatible con la versión anterior y la asignación de pines permanece sin cambios.

Los cambios de hardware:

  • El Atmel ATMEGA644P fue cambiado a la versión SMT, Dejando espacio libre en la tarjeta.
  • Los MOSFET fueron cambiados a la versión SMT, capaz de controlar una corriente de 76A !!
  • El conector Molex para disco duro vuelve a estar disponible en la tarjeta.
  • Terminales de conexión de 3 pines para disponibilidad de 5V, +12V y GND.
  • conectores para finales de carrera ópticos de 3 pines y mecánicos de 4 pines a 5 o 12V.


Versión 1.3a - Actualizado Julio 21, 2011

la Versión 1.3a no tuvo cambios en el software - La asignación de pines se mantiene igual y su firmware compatible 1.2+ trabajara bien en esta. Los cambios del hardware:

  • Se retiro el conector Molex de disco duro en favor del uso de un regulador de voltaje - algunas fuentes de voltaje entregan una señal de 5V muy sucia cuando no existe la carga de una "mother board", así que es mejor utilizar solamente el conector ATX+4 y un regulador de voltaje de 5V.
  • Se adiciona un "jumper" para habilitar/Deshabilitar el auto-reinicio USB. De esta manera si esta imprimiendo desde una memoria SD utilizando SDSL puede desconectar su USB y re-conectarla sin interrumpir su impresión.
  • R7 y R8 son ahora resistencias "pull-up" de 100k en las lineas de habilitación de los paso a paso. Esto asegura qeu los motores de pasos están deshabilitados y no se moverán mientras se carga un nuevo firmware, se reinicia, etc.
  • Se retiran las resistencias limitadoras de corriente para el FTDI.
  • Se adiciona un conector extra par motor-z utilizado en Prusa Mendel.


Ultimos post en el Foro

Características

  • Diseño compacto - Las dimensiones de la tarjeta son 100mm x 50mm (4" x 2") - Solo una pulgada mas larga que una tarjeta de presentación!
  • Clon de Sanguino, Utiliza el ATmega644P de Atmel - También compatible con el ATmega1284!!
  • Hasta 4 Pololu stepper driver boards (o compatible con Pololu) incluye ejes X,Y,Z y Extrusor (sin regulador de voltaje)
  • Soporta múltiple configuraciones de alimentación.
-- Lógica & Motores alimentados por una fuente de poder ATX (necesita un conector Molex de disco duro, y un conector ATX 4P opcional, para una fuente adicional de 12 V)
-- Los Motores son alimentados por terminales de tornillos de 5 mm.
-- La lógica es alimentada por el conector USB.
-- La lógica puede ser alimentada por un regulador de voltaje incluido en la tarjeta (el conector Molex de disco duro no puede ser instalado simultáneamente)
Soporta múltiples configuraciones de comunicaciones
-- Conectividad USB por medio del FT232RL.
-- Conector USB2TTL disponible para cable FTDI, o modulo bluetooth BlueSMIRF.
  • 2 conectores de termistor con los circuitos necesario para su lectura.
  • 2 MOSFETs tipo N para extrusor y base caliente, o para lo que se te ocurra.
  • Selecionable 12v(o voltaje de fuente)/5v voltaje de finales de carrera.
  • conectores en el borde de la tarjeta, lo que permite conexiones en angulo recto.
  • Silkscreen de los conectores en las dos caras de la tarjeta, facilitando la conexión de cables en la cara inferior.
  • 13 pines extra disponibles para expansión y desarrollo - 6 analógicas y 8 digitales, con las siguientes capacidades
-- UART1 (RX y TX)
-- I2C (SDA y SCL)
-- SPI (MOSI, MISO, SCK)
-- PWM pin (1)
-- (5) Entradas / Salidas
  • Todos los componentes son de hueco pasante (con excepción del chip FTDI) para un fácil soldado manual.

Errores

  • El voltaje 5V VBUS del USB esta conectado a la salida del regulador de 5V. Esto es malo para el regulador y malo para el PC. Algunos usuarios reportan que el regulador se calienta (porque esta alimentando el PC), otros usuarios reportan que el PC muestra errores de sobre carga en la corriente del bus USB. Nophead recomienda cortar la pista de 5V del conector USB. El único inconveniente es que la tarjeta necesitara ser alimentada a 12V antes de hacer cualquier cosa.
  • Cuando el cargador de arranque corre durante un reinicio y cuando descarga un nuevo firmware, los motores están habilitados debido a las resistencias pull-up en los Pololus (las lineas de habilitación están en nivel lógico alto (5V o un 1 lógico) por resistores de 100K en el Sanguinololu pero también están siendo forzadas a un nivel bajo por resistencias de 100K en cada pololu). Los pines del controlador de motores de paso estarán flotantes entonces y esto causa movimientos erráticos del motor.

El pin de pasos E esta contiguo al pin de dirección E por lo cual el cargador piensa que es un LED que debe ser encendido intermitentemente. Esta [diafonía ] Puede producir que el motor del extrusor gire cuando el firmware esta siendo descargado. Esto no es bueno cuando el extrusor esta frío, porque se puede dañar el extremo caliente. Nophead recomienda cambiar las resistencias en la linea de habilitación (R7 y R8) por 4K7 para asegurar que los motores estarán deshabilitados mientras el firmware los habilita.

Una corrección de software es utilizar la rutina de carga del GEN7 que no enciende un LED no existente.

Imágenes del Esquemático & Tarjeta

Imagenes de Referencia

Fotos Históricas

Donde Conseguirlo?

Usted puede comprar la tarjeta despoblada o un kit completo en:

Puede comprar la tarjeta completamente ensamblada en:

  • Menextech The newest version 1.3a. kits, y tarjetas pobladas y probadas.
  • RepRap.me The newest version 1.3b. Tarjetas sin poblar, kits, y tarjetas pobladas y probadas.
  • Solidoodle - v1.3a completamente ensambladas con el bootloader instalado. Solo adicione el firmware & y los drivers de motor.
  • eMAKERshop Fully assembled with bootloader and Sprinter configured for Prusa Mendel. (Includes endstops & cables, female Crimp terrminals and housings for all connections, and heatsinks for Pololu stepper drivers)
  • EBay United Kingdom
  • Reprapworld.com
  • resco-research Completamente ensamblados y probados! Versión 1.3a

(Si hay mas vendedores disponibles, por favor agregarlos en esta sección)

Usted también necesitara una tarjeta controladora para motores de pasos Pololu o compatible como son las StepStick

  • Tarjeta controladora para motores de pasos compatible con Pololu disponibles en RepRap.me - En Stock! Nueva Versión con pasos 1/16 y disipador de calor gratis.
  • Tarjeta controladora para motores de pasos compatible con Pololu A4983 en [1] NOTA: Estas tienen resistencias de 0,22 ohm, por lo cual controlan una corriente maxima de 0,9 A.
  • Pololus Genuinos, Con un vendedor ubicado en UK eMAKERshop

Archivos en formato EAGLE, listas de partes

Esquemáticos, tarjetas, imágenes en : https://github.com/mosfet/Sanguinololu/tree/master/rev1.3a

Partes: https://github.com/mosfet/Sanguinololu/blob/master/rev1.3a/parts.txt

Por favor note que las listas de partes generadas por Eagle pueden ser incompletas e incorrectas. El circuito integrado en la lista de partes debe ser un 644P, no simplemente un 644. Esta falta de exactitud se debe a la forma en la que se hacen las bibliotecas de partes. Verifique en las instrucciones de ensamble las partes que necesitará, esto le evitará múltiples ordenes de partes y le ahorrará tiempo y dinero.

También, compre únicamente resistores de 1/4 W nada mas grande se podrá utilizar en esta PCB.

Proyectos de partes en Mouser

Todo lo que necesitas excepto el PCB !

BOM en Mouser para Sanguinololu 1.3A con conectores polarizados. https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=362F4749E3 Actualizado Agosto 11, 2011. Se cambio el pin vertical de 4 pines 12V (Molex PN 39-28-1043), por uno en angulo recto (Molex PN 39-30-1040)

Si espera que su base caliente use mucha corriente (es decir mas de 5A) usted debe pensar en utilizar un MOSFET IRF2804PbF en lugar del RFP30N06LE especificado como Q2. El RFP30N06LE tiene una resistencia de 47 mOhms, mientras el IRF2804PbF tiene una resistencia de solo 2 mOhms.

Instrucciones de Ensamble (Versión 0.7 - 1.3a)

Para versiones anteriores vea Sanguinololu_0.6

Para usuarios que van a poblar una tarjeta 1.3a, note que hay un par de cambios:

  • Usted tendrá que soldar un conector de dos pines tipo puente para la función AUTO-RST del FTDI. Esta esta localizado justamente sobre el chip ATMEGA.
  • R7 & R8 son resistencias de 100K y son parte del ensamble recomendado.

Para usuarios de tarjetas 1.2a:

  • R7 & R8 deben ser reemplazados con puentes de alambre. Yo utilice dos alambres sobrantes de elementos soldados previamente en lugar de las resistencias R7 y R8.

Para quien esta poblando un PCB 1.2 simplemente siga la guiá de ensamble paso a paso disponible en imágenes de Baja , Media y alta Resolución.


Modificando tarjetas viejas (De la Versión 1.1 y 1.2 a Versión 1.3a)

Para usuarios con una PCB version 1.1 quienes quieran modificarla para hacerla equivalente (electricamente/firmware)a una PCB 1.2, la imagen inferior y este diagrama muestra cortes en las rutas y los puentes de alambre requeridos.

Sanguinololu PCB Modded from v1.1 to v1.2.JPG

Infobox info icon.svg.png Nota
se utilizan puentes de alambre en lugar de R7 y R8 en las tarjetas V1.2 y en V1.1 modificadas a V1.2

Para crear un PCB equivalente V1.3A desde una tarjeta V1.1 como la anterior, o una tarjeta estándar V1.2, se requieren los siguientes cambios:

  • Montar (condensador) C7 en un pequeño socalo de tal forma que puedas desconectarlo Adrians Prusa Notes - Electronics
  • Adicionar dos resistencias pull-up de 100k, para polarizar a 5V el pin 20 y el pin 35 del chip ATMEGA.
Warning-general-2.gif.png Caution
Así como en la modificación 2011-09-12 (Desde v1.1 modificada o v1.2 estándar a la v1.3a) aún no se ha probado/ verificado funcionalmente.

Por hacer: tomar fotografías.

Introducción

Reúna las herramientas que necesitará para llevar a cabo las soldaduras de los elementos de hueco pasante y si usted opta por el kit FTDI a bordo también algunas soldaduras STM. Cautin (o Cautil) y/o pistola de soldar, soldadura y lo mas importante el flux !! No puedo expresar lo mucho que facilita el flux realizar las soldaduras de los dispositivos SMT. Personalmente recomiendo para soldaduras STM el Kester 985M el cual no deja residuos (no-clean), también el Kester 2235, conseguirlos puede costarte algo de tiempo y dinero pero la calidad de las soldaduras resulta mejorada. Otro factor muy importante es el tipo de soldadura que se este utilizando y el calibre del alambre, para elementos SMT utilice el alambre mas delgado y con mas bajo punto de fusión que tenga disponible. He probado el alambre de soldadura Kester con aleación Sn62Pb36Ag02 (PN 24-7068-7608) de diámetro 0.015" y se tienen excelentes resultados. Para mas informacion sobre tipos de soldadura siga este link Antes de realizar la primera soldadura revise su tarjeta cuidadosamente en búsqueda de defectos. Busque conexiones sospechosas entre líneas. Familiaricese con la ubicación de las partes que se montaran en ambas caras. Reúna sus componentes y asegúrese que tiene completa la lista de partes de su selección. Esta foto muestra partes suficientes para ensamblar dos Sanguinololus - uno para conectores ATX y el otro con terminales de tornillo y regulador de voltaje.


Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 0. parts.JPG

Soldering the FTDI

Install the FT232RL FTDI IC. Note the orientation of the silkscreen. Solder using your favourite SMT soldering method. The board pictured was tinned from the fabrication shop. After applying flux to the pads, and carefully placing the chip, it was easily soldered by touching the tip of the soldering pencil to the end of pad to tack the chip down, and then on the pin it self to flow the solder correctly. If you're not sure you want to tackle the SMT soldering, you can get the PCB with the USB pre-soldered [here]. Yet another alternative to soldering a IC, could be a USB to TTL-converter, this would require about the same amount of skill to solder as any other through-hole resistor.


Parts:

 IC100    FT232RL          FT232RLSSOP              

NOTE: When testing the FTDI loopback, as in the following video or the text directions that appear below, be sure that your jumper doesn't short to the case of the USB connector just below and fool you into thinking you have a problem when you do not.

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Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 1. flux the pads.JPG

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 2. soldered ftdi.JPG

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 2a. soldered ftdi.JPG


Next install the FTDI components. mind the polarization on the electrolytic (C16).

Parts:

 J1       USB              USBPTH                   
 C7       0.1uF            CAPPTH2
 C8       0.1uF            CAPPTH2                  
 C11      0.1uF            CAPPTH2                  
 C15      0.1uF            CAPPTH2                  
 C16      4.7uF            CAP_POLPTH2              

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 3. ftdi components.JPG


Now is a good time to test the FTDI chip. Plug a USB cable into the port. The device should show up as a COM port or a TTY device and allow it to be opened. If you temporarily connect the 'TX' and 'RX' pins on the USB2TTL port on the back of the board anything you type in your terminal application (such as PuTTy) should be echoed back to you.

Note that when you have finished the assembly and want to connect to the board using your printer software, then if you are using Windows XP you will need to load the FTDI drivers from the FTDI website. Windows will then recognize the FTDI chip and install it as a device.

Soldering Sanguinololu Core

Next, solder the female headers, making sure they're straight and completely seated on the PCB. Where two lengths of header strip are placed so they join in the middle, they may be fractionally too long to lie flat on the board at the join. In this case, carefully file off some of the plastic at the adjoining ends until they fit together in the space available.

Parts:

 4x Female Pin Header 16 Pin

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 4. female sockets.JPG


Solder MS1, MS2 and MS3 jumper headers. I find that it is easier to solder the 2-pin header if the jumper shunt is installed. Ensure they're completely seated and straight. Leaving the jumper shunt in place will pull the MS pins high, i.e. set the Pololu controller to sixteenth step resolution. This turned out to be the appropriate setting for my out-of-the-box firmware. If your motors move erratically, check these.

Parts:

 12x Male Pin Header 2 Pin
 12x Jumper Shunt

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 5. microstepping jumpers.JPG


Install the led current limiting resisitor and the MS1 pull-down resistors (MS2 and MS3 have internal pull-down resistors).

Parts:

 R1       1k (1.5k)        RESISTORPTH1
 R2       100k             RESISTORPTH1
 R3       100k             RESISTORPTH1             
 R4       100k             RESISTORPTH1             
 R5       100k             RESISTORPTH1             

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 6. pulldown and led resisitor.JPG


Solder the driver decoupling caps. Before soldering, bend the leads to the side so the capacitor lays down. Mind the polarization!

Parts:

 C1       100uf            CAP_POLPTH1
 C2       100uf            CAP_POLPTH1              
 C3       100uf            CAP_POLPTH1              
 C4       100uf            CAP_POLPTH1              

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 7. decup caps.JPG


Install the thermistor high pass RC filters. Mind the polarization of the capacitors. Install the MOSFET pulldown resistors.

Infobox info icon.svg.png Important Note
If you're using a Sanguinololu 1.3a here, install 100K resistors in R7 and R8.

If you're using a Sanguinololu 1.2 here, do not install resistors in R7 and R8. Instead, replace them with a jumper lead - I use a clipped lead from something I've already soldered. When you're done, you should have two jumper wires: one in place of the resistor in R7 and the other in place of the resistor in R8.


Parts:

 R6       10k               RESISTORPTH1             
 R11      10k               RESISTORPTH1             
 R7       100k - 1.3a only! RESISTORPTH1             
 R8       100k - 1.3a only! RESISTORPTH1             
 C9       10uF              CAP_POLPTH2
 C10      10uF              CAP_POLPTH2              
 R9       4.7k              RESISTORPTH1             
 R10      4.7k              RESISTORPTH1             

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 8. mosfet resisitors, highpass filters.JPG


Install the dip socket and ceramic resonator. Before soldering, bend the resonator leads so that it lays down within the dip socket. It doesn't matter which way round it goes.

Parts:

 DIP-40   SOCKET
 Y1       16MHz 22pF       RESONATORPTH             

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build 9. dip socket, resonator.JPG


Install the two ceramic caps for the ATMEGA and the reset pull up resistor.

Parts:

 C14      0.1uF            CAPPTH2
 C13      0.1uF            CAPPTH2                  
 R12      100k             RESISTORPTH1                   

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build A. resistors & filter caps.JPG


Solder the MOSFET, the large charge capacitor, reset button, and the power led. The power led's negative lead is the flat side, or shorter lead. The negative lead goes to the left in the picture immediately below.

Parts:

 Q1       RFP30N06LE       MOSFET-NCHANNELPTH2
 Q2       RFP30N06LE       MOSFET-NCHANNELPTH2
 C12      1000uF           CAP_POLPTH4              
 S1       RESET            TAC_SWITCHPTH            
 LED1     POWER            LED3MM 

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build B. reset button, led, big cap, mosfets.JPG

ATX Power Supply Source

If you are using the ATX power supply kit, install those connectors.

Parts:

 ATX1     ATX-4VERTICAL    ATX-4VERTICAL
 HDDPWR   5v/12v           DRIVEPWRVERTICAL                           

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build C. atx connectors.JPG


Infobox info icon.svg.png Important Note
It has been brought to my attention in IRC (thanks Kliment & tonokip) that the 5V coming from the ATX power supply may not be as stable and at 5V as one could hope. It would be better practice here to instead of using the 4-Pin hard-drive connector use the 4-pin ATX connector and the Voltage Regulator. The 4xATX connector will still provide enough power for the board.

One could even forgo the voltage regulator and power the logic side of the board strictly by USB, the power side by 12V ATX4.

Voltage Regulator & Screw Terminal

If you are using the voltage regulator and screw terminal kit, install those parts now. Note the orientation of the LM7805. Label the screw terminal with a felt tip marker which side is + and which is -. Note - on later versions of this board the screw terminals mount at right angles to the way shown so the wire they connect comes out parallel to the USB lead.

Parts:

 IC1       LM7805          VREG
 C5       0.33uF           CAPPTH2
 C6       0.1uF            CAPPTH2
 JP23     SCREW            M025MM         

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build D. voltage reg and screw term.JPG

Connectors

Finally, solder your motor, end stop, thermistor, and bed/tip connectors. Optionally solder the 12v(or supply voltage) connectors on the top of the board, and the ISP 6 pin header (for programming the ATMEGA) Various parts.

Sanguinololu 1.0 Build E. connectors & isp.JPG

For speeding up the soldering of the connectors in case you use pinheaders, you can use longer strips, and just snip positions that are not used, like this:

SL11 Toprow.jpg SL11 Endstoprow.jpg

(Top strip left, endstops right)

Resulting in a board like this

SL11 Boardstrip.jpg

Pololus

When you solder the pin strips onto the Pololus you will find it easiest to put the strips in the appropriate place in the Sanguinololu. Then just drop the Pololu boards on top and solder them in place. Check the polarity is correct - don't trust checking it against an image on this wiki. Make sure that pins 1a, 1b, 2a, & 2b are closest to the edge of the board. You can then unplug them later if you want.

Endstops

Mechanical micro-switch endstops are recommended for their simplicity and reliability. It is recommended to wire the switch terminals Common (C) and Normally Open (NO) to GND and SIG on Sanguinololu (the two outside pins on the endstop connectors). Ensure you set Endstops_Inverting to true in your firmware.


If you are using optical endstops or proximity sensors (or other endstops that require power) you can use either 5v or 12v(or supply voltage) depending on what endstop device you want to use. This is selected by soldering a little link labeled "Stop Volt" on the back of the board. With the text the right way up, joining the left pad to the middle one gives 12v(or supply voltage); right-to-middle gives 5v. Take care not to short all three together.

Software

Typically, you need two pieces of software on your ATmega:

  • A bootloader, which exists for the sole purpose of allowing uploading a firmware over the serial port. Most RepRap vendors deliver ATmegas with a bootloader already installed. No matter which firmware you prefer, there is no need to replace the bootloader as long as it works.
  • A firmware, which contains all the logic to make your printer move according to the G-code commands sent to it.

The following description is a bit aged by now, it applies to the ATmega644P and older Arduino IDEs, only. For more recent instructions, see Gen7 Arduino IDE Support's Installation and Gen7 Arduino IDE Support's bootloader upload instructions. This will show you how to handle the ATmega644, ATmega644P and ATmega1284P as well and how to make use of recent Arduino IDEs. The Gen7 Arduino IDE Support package works for a Sanguinololu just fine.

Bootloader

Si se quiere tener la posibilidad de ir subiendo sketches sin un programador a nuestra placa sanguinololu necesitamos colocar un bootloader dentro.

El bootloader es un pequeño programa que ira en la memória de nuestro chip para poder así la utilidad de descargar los sketches mediante el usb, sin falta de un programador.

Existen cuatro maneras para grabar nuestro arduino... Pero personalmente me parecen las más fáciles para la gente mediante un programador o si ya tienes un arduino usarlo como programador.

Flashing the bootloader with a:

  • Arduino como ISP
 A parte de esta información en inglés también se encuentra explicado en mi blog la forma de hacerlo mediante un arduino como ISP ==> Blog

Firmware

You will need to upload a RepRap firmware to your Sanguinololu once the Bootloader has been burnt. You can do this using the USB cable and the Arduino IDE (v0022, 1.0 has issues with the Arduino library coming with the Sanguino extensions). If you know of other working firmwares than what is listed below please feel free to add them.

Compatible Firmwares

Troubleshooting

stk500_getsync

Arduino may return the following error when attempting to load firmware:

avrdude: stk500_getsync():not in sync: resp=0x00 
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51
workaround

To resolve, hold the reset button on your Sanguinololu for about 10 seconds. While still holding the button, try to upload the firmware again (File --> Upload to Board). Let go of the reset button as soon as Arduino reports, "Binary sketch size: ###### bytes (of a 63488 byte maximum)". The firmware should now be accepted.


An other think to check is the baudrate in the " Boards.txt" folder. (in hardware/Sanguino ) Change atmega644p.upload.speed=57600 to atmega644p.upload.speed=38400 Arduino will not take changes in this folder if it is not restarted.

permanent fix

A fix was added in Rev 1.3a. If unpopulated (like mine), solder a 2 pin header to the "Autoreset Enable" jumper labeled AUTO RST on the silkscreen. This is located between the Z stepper motor socket and pins 8-10 of the ATMEGA644P socket. In addition to this procedure, you should also set your Virtual COM port parameter "RTS on close" to ON.

THE FIX: Adding the jumper allows the PC reset the Sanguino board programming and interactive sessions.

THE DEFAULT: Removing the jumper allows the printer to run in standalone mode; that is, the micro controller will not reset mid print when the PC is disconnected or reconnected.

Another stk500 error

I got this error:

avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding 
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding 

IRC was very helpful asked me to edit the sanguino boards.txt and change the programmer type to 'arduino' instead of 'stk500'. Which gave me:

avrdude: Can't find programmer id "arduino"

Then I was to check if I had any files in, which I do. After that it spat out:

avrdude: error: no usb support. please compile again with libusb installed.
Solution

As I already had avrdude installed, I just moved the old avrdude binary that came with Arduino 0018 and made a symlink from /usr/bin/ to where the old binary was:

mv ~/tmp/arduino-0018/hardware/tools/avrdude ~/tmp/arduino-0018/hardware/tools/avrdudeOLD
ln -s /usr/bin/avrdude ~/tmp/arduino-0018/hardware/tools/

Final Check

Pololu drivers current limit configuration

Before going further, it's very important to configure the current limit of your Pololu drivers or you'll risk burning out your stepper motors or the Pololus. This should be done with the board powered but before connecting the motors. Always power off before connecting or disconnecting the motors.

First of all, note that there are usually two types of NEMA 17 motors :

  • high voltage stepper motors, that work usually on 12 to 14V, the working current is usually below 1A. These don't work well with microstepping chopper drivers and are not recommended.
  • low voltage stepper motors, that work usually on 2 to 4V, the rated current is usually over 1A.

It is safe to drive low voltage stepper motors at a much higher voltage because the Pololu A4988 has current limit functionality. The higher the voltage applied compared to the motor's rated one, the faster your stepper motor can run. The A4988 chip can only provide up to 2A per coil so choose your stepper motor accordingly.

A good starting point for the current is <math>0.7</math> times its rated current. This is typically ~1A with the recommended 1.68A NEMA17 motors and that is about the maximum current the Pololu can deliver without a heatsink or a fan. Note that the rated current of a motor is usually that which gives an 80C temperature rise, which is too hot for plastic brackets, hence the reason to under-run them.

The recommended way to set Pololu drivers current limit is to measure the voltage at the Vref test point. The A4988 datasheet gives all the required information to configure the current limit of a Pololu driver :

The peak current <math>I = \dfrac{V_{REF}}{8 \times R_S}</math>

where <math>R_S</math> is the resistance of the sense resistor (<math>\Omega</math>) and <math>V_{REF}</math> is the input voltage on the REF pin (V).

On the Pololu driver board, the <math>R_S</math> value is <math>0.05 \Omega</math> and the <math>V_{REF}</math> can be measured on the test point shown below, or the metal wiper of the pot. <math>I</math> is equal to the recommended current limit for your stepper motor multiplied by <math>0.7</math>. Thus you can determine the <math>V_{REF}</math> you'll need with:

<math>V_{REF} = I \times 8 \times 0.05 = 0.4 \times I</math>

For example if your motor is rated 2.8V at 1.68A, you adjust the pot so that you measure the following value for <math>V_{REF}</math> :

<math>V_{REF} = 1.68A \times 0.7 \times 0.4 = 0.47 V</math>

Pololu.jpg

Note that the StepStick pin compatible driver has 0.2<math>\Omega</math> sense resistors and the current is limited to a little over 1A with <math>V_{REF}</math> = 1.7V.

Symptoms of not enough current are skipping steps and poor microstepping linearity. Too much current will cause the motor or the driver to overheat. When the driver overheats it shutsdown for a few seconds and then restarts again when it cools. This makes the motor twitch when it is stationary and pause during motion.

See also Pololu's presentation on calibrating/testing the driver boards: [2]

Wiring shematics

Sanguinololu12.svg


Powering Sanguinololu

Your chosen power solution will determine what kind of power requirements will be in play:

Screw terminal: Connect your power supply with at least 7V and at most 30V to the screw terminal. The negative lead is the one closest to the screw hole.

ATX Power Connector: Connect the ATX-4 pin connector. The ATX power supply must also be rigged to turn on when plugged in & the switch is on. This is done by shorting the !PWR_ENABLE pin to ground on the main ATX-20 pin connector. This is usually the green wire shorted to a black wire. I use a staple crammed in the socket, and use the switch on the power supply case to control system power.

Sanguinololu Firmware

You can program the ATmega644P with Sanguino's bootloader for easy firmware loading. Another working package is Gen7 Arduino IDE Support, which supports the ATmega1284P and Arduino IDE 1.0 or later, too. On how to upload a bootloader, see Gen7 Arduino IDE Support's bootloader upload instructions.

Sprinter is the recommended firmware for Sanguinololu. Teacup, Marlin and Repetier are known to work as well.

In Sprinter, check the Configuration.h to ensure that Sanguinololu is selected as your board: Board 62 for Sanguinololu v1.2 and newer, board 6 for v1.1 and older.


Pin Assignments v1.2

                           +---vv---+
    e-dir      (D 0) PB0  1|        |40  PA0 (AI 0 / D31) ext
   e-step      (D 1) PB1  2|        |39  PA1 (AI 1 / D30) ext
    z-dir INT2 (D 2) PB2  3|        |38  PA2 (AI 2 / D29) ext
   z-step  PWM (D 3) PB3  4|        |37  PA3 (AI 3 / D28) ext
      ext  PWM (D 4) PB4  5|        |36  PA4 (AI 4 / D27) ext
      spi MOSI (D 5) PB5  6|        |35  PA5 (AI 5 / D26) !step-enable-z
      spi MISO (D 6) PB6  7|        |34  PA6 (AI 6 / D25) b-therm
      spi  SCK (D 7) PB7  8|        |33  PA7 (AI 7 / D24) e-therm
                     RST  9|        |32  AREF
                     VCC 10|        |31  GND 
                     GND 11|        |30  AVCC
                   XTAL2 12|        |29  PC7 (D 23)       y-dir
                   XTAL1 13|        |28  PC6 (D 22)       y-setp
    ftdi  RX0 (D 8)  PD0 14|        |27  PC5 (D 21) TDI   x-dir
    ftdi  TX0 (D 9)  PD1 15|        |26  PC4 (D 20) TDO   z-stop
     ext  RX1 (D 10) PD2 16|        |25  PC3 (D 19) TMS   y-stop
     ext  TX1 (D 11) PD3 17|        |24  PC2 (D 18) TCK   x-stop
 !hotbed  PWM (D 12) PD4 18|        |23  PC1 (D 17) SDA   ext
 !hotend  PWM (D 13) PD5 19|        |22  PC0 (D 16) SCL   ext
!step-en  PWM (D 14) PD6 20|        |21  PD7 (D 15) PWM   x-step
                           +--------+

Or in tabular format

 !step-enable-z     D26       PA5
 !step-enable-x-y-e D14       PD6
 e-dir              D0        PB0
 e-step             D1        PB1
 z-dir              D2        PB2
 z-step             D3        PB3
 y-dir              D23       PC7 
 y-step             D22       PC6 
 x-dir              D21       PC5 
 x-step             D15       PD7
 !hotbed            D12       PD4
 !hotend            D13       PD5
 b-therm            D25  AI6  PA6
 e-therm            D24  AI7  PA7
 x-stop             D18       PC2 
 y-stop             D19       PC3 
 z-stop             D20       PC4

Pin Assignments v0.7 - 1.1

 step-enable-x-y-e-z D4        PB4
 e-dir               D0        PB0
 e-step              D1        PB1
 z-dir               D2        PB2
 z-step              D3        PB3
 y-dir               D23       PC7 
 y-step              D22       PC6 
 x-dir               D21       PC5 
 x-step              D15       PD7
 hotend              D13       PD5
 hotbed              D14       PD6
 b-therm             D25  AI6  PA6
 e-therm             D24  AI7  PA7
 x-stop              D18       PC2 
 y-stop              D19       PC3 
 z-stop              D20       PC4

Microstepping Jumper Settings

Sanguinololu Jumpers.JPG

SD / Bluetooth Adapters

At least two adapters exist for the Sanguinololu using the IO and ISP headers.

Revision 0.5 / 0.6 Info

See Sanguinololu_0.6 for assembly instructions, board files, etc.


Revision History

Rev 1.3a Version 1.3a has no firmware changes - the pin assignments remain the same and your 1.2+ compatible firmware should work here fine. The hardware changes: Removed the Molex HDD connector in favor of using the voltage regulator - some power supplies give a dirty 5V signal when there is no motherboard load, so its better to just use the power supply's ATX+4 connector and the 5V voltage regulator. Added a jumper to enable/disable USB auto-reset. This way if you're printing from an SD card using SDSL you can disconnect your USB and reconnect it without interrupting a print. R7 and R8 are now 100k pull-up resistors that are on the stepper-enable lines. This ensures the stepper motors stay disabled and don't move while uploading new firmware, rebooting, etc. The current limiting resistors for the FTDI are gone. There is an extra Z-motor header for Prusa Mendel.

Rev 1.3 This is a custom modification for WebSpider - it spaces the hottip and hotbed connectors better. No firmware changes.

Rev 1.2 Rev 1.2 Updated June 15, 2011

While Version 1.1 is completely functional, there were some requests from users for pin assignment changes. Version 1.2 implements these firmware changes. --Z-Enable is now on its own pin --PWM devices have been moved to OC0 and OC1 freeing up OC2 for internal timing --The expansion port is now a pin shorter - the Z-Enable feature ate an analog pin here.


Version 1.2 still includes the footprint for the Molex HDD connector, though you may be wise to disregard it and always install the 5V regulator as not all ATX power supplies' 5v lines are stable and clean.

NOTE: On the bottom side of the board, the footprint for the Molex HDD connector is backwards (beveled edges facing towards the edge of the board). Take care if soldering from the bottom side of the board to orient the HDD connector with the beveled edges facing towards the center of the board, as shown on the top side silkscreen. This may be the cause of some claims of bad 5V regulation on some power supplies, especially when 12V is connected instead!


Rev 1.1 Corrected silkscreen mistake. Added open hardware logo

Rev 1.0 Release revision, tighter DRC rules, and updated screw terminal footprint. Looks like there is one tiny mistake on the 1.0 board: the leftmost 5v pin on the expansion header is actually 12v(or supply voltage).

Revision 1.0 is here with only a few tiny changes from 0.7 - the screw terminal pads have been rotated so that they face the closest edge, and the design rules have become more strict to be compliant with more board fab shops. I've included gerber files in git so that you can easily have your own boards fabbed.

Rev 0.7 Added more pins to the expansion header, made I2C and SPI available for use. Combined all stepper motor enable nets into one pin.

Added footprints for voltage regulator for those wanting to use laptop power brick, etc. The vreg component footprints are hidden under the ATX power supply for space saving and to prevent both from being in use.

Enabled USB bus power for logic side.

Connected the 5v pin on the USB2TTL header so that either a: ftdi cable can power the board, or b: The board can power a bluetooth serial module (bluesmirf).


See Sanguinololu_0.6 for older revision history