The Rostock mini is a delta 3D printer based on the modified design of the original Rostock created by Johann. The printer is designed to have a smaller build volume allowing for a smaller, more compact, portable, and desktop friendly version of the delta RepRap design. Using OpenSCAD, the parametric nature of the design files allows for print surfaces to be configured that range from as small as the default 152x152 mm (6x6 inches) all the way to 300x300 mm (12x12 inches) or more. Further, construction parameters such as the length of the drive belts, diagonal rods, and a laser cuttable frame as well as the firmware parameters such as diagonal rod length and delta radius are all automatically calculated based on the size of the specified print surface.
As of October 11, 2012 this wiki is actively being edited so details and information will be changing over the next few weeks.
The modifications to this design were driven by three factors: to experiment with the delta configuration in a printer with a smaller physical footprint; to determine if the original Rostock design could be made more rigid (and thereby not need the heavy wood frame) if the vertical height was reduced considerably; and finally to design a sleeker, parametric lower and upper frame suitable for laser cutting in wood or acrylic.
While this design can be enlarged to fit an 8x8 or larger printbed, the vertical build height should be limited to maybe 8" to keep the frame rigid. Conversely, because of the torque needed to move the hotend platform, NEMA17 steppers are required making it difficult to scale any smaller than the Rostock mini default of a 6x6 printbed.
- Build volume: 152x152x192 mm (6x6x7.5 inches).
- Footprint: TBD.
- Print surface: 152x152 mm heated glass which never moves.
The Rostock mini design is a derivative of the innovative Rostock designed by Johann.
Further contribution and parametric design by Greg Frost.
Development notes can be found at http://hardwired.cc/.
Original release: TBD.
Bill of Materials
- Begin by constructing each of the three towers, starting with the motor end, then the idler end, followed by the carriage, and then putting it all together to complete the tower.
- Complete the frame by attaching the motor ends of each tower to the lower frame before attaching the upper frame to the idler ends.
- Assemble the end effector platform, assembling and attaching the diagonal rods as you go.
- Attach the ends of each diagonal rod to the carriages on each tower to complete the mechanical assembly.
- Finally, install the electronics, mount the extruder, and complete the wiring.
What follows is a brief overview of each of these assembly steps.
- Begin the motor end assembly by taping the four mounting holes for the lower frame with an M4 tap
- Drill each of the six M3 holes with a 7/64 or #35 drill bit
- Insert six M3x12 screws using fender washers and nuts but do not tighten
- Insert 8mm smooth rods into the top of the motor mount until just shy of the bottom of the opening
- Once both rods are adjusted to the same length, tighten each M3 screw to secure the smooth rods
- Mount the NEMA17 motor using four M3x10 screws with washers or M3x12 ascrews nd washers with a cork gasket
- Attach a 36-tooth timing pulley to the motor shaft
- Tap the two mounting holes for the upper frame with an M4 tap
- Drill each of the four M3 holes with a 7/64 or #35 drill bit
- Insert four M3x12 screws using fender washers and nuts but do not tighten
- Insert M8x30 screw through two 608ZZ bearings and one M8 washer and thread through the idler end until tight
- Tighten idler on the inside with a M8 washer and nut using a wrench and allen key
Note: The M8x30 screw should be very tight in the idler end.
- Cut out the supports in the timing belt retainer
- Tap the endstop screw hole with an M3 tap
- Thread an M3x10 flat or button head screw for endstop adjustment
- Drill each of the four M3 holes for the u-joints with a 3/32 or #40 drill bit
- Set four M3 nuts on the inside of each u-joint using a soldering iron to heat the nut to make it flush with the opening, shown here
- Insert four M3x12 screws using fender washers but do not tighten and leave the u-joint open
- Drill each of the four M3 holes in two u-joints with a 3/32 or #40 drill bit
- Lubricate the holes and bearing surfaces of each u-joint with PTFE grease or 3-in-One motor oil
- Insert both u-joints into the carriage and tighten the four M3 screws
- Insert two LM8UU linear bearings and secure with four 7/8"x4-1/8" zip ties
Note: The u-joints should be tight but still move freely. These will wear in with time.
- Complete the towers by sliding the carriage on each pair of 8mm smooth rods
- Slide an idler end on top of each pair of rods making sure to align the top and bottom of the tower keeping the rods parallel
- Once each tower is assembled but before tightening the idler end, stretch a GT2 timing belt over the pulley, between the belt holder on the carriage, and over the idler
- Pulley upwards on the idler to tension the timing pulley, tighten all four M3 screws to finish the tower.
- Once the towers are complete, attach the lower frame to the motor ends of each tower using M4x16 screws and washers; three on each of the front towers and four on the rear tower
- Attach the upper frame to the idler ends of each tower using two M4x16 screws and washers on each tower