RAMPS 1.3/nl

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Translations of this page

Dutch: Over RAMPS1.3 Nederlands

Version specific info
RAMPS 1.7 | RAMPS 1.6 | RAMPS 1.5 | RAMPS 1.4.4 | RAMPS 1.4 | RAMPS 1.3 | RAMPS 1.2 (RAMPS 1.2 old) and older
Crystal Clear action run.png
RAMPS 1.3

Release status: Working

RAMPS1 3front.jpg
Description
RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield Arduino MEGA gebaseerde modulaire RepRap electronica.
License
Author
Contributors
Based-on
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CAD Models
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Samenvatting

Deze pagina is gekopieerd van de 1.2 versie daarmee kennel er verschillen zijn met deze versie totdat deze beschreven zijn.


RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield, afkorting RAMPS. Is een ontwerp dat alle electronica bevat voor een RepRap in een kleine formfactor tegen lage kosten. RAMPS interfaced met een Arduino MEGA en heeft genoeg ruimte voor uitbreidingen. Het modulaire ontwerp bevat 'plug in' stappenmotor drivers and extruder controle electronica op een Arduino MEGA shield. Met dit ontwerp wordt het makkelijk onderdelen te wisselen, op te waarderen, uit te breiden en te onderhouden. Daarnaast kunnen op de Arduino ook nog andere uitbreidingsbordjes worden geprikt zolang deze RAMPS shield boven op de stapel wordt geprikt.

As of version 1.3 in order to fit more stuff RAMPS is no longer designed for easy circuit home etching. If you want to etch your own PCB either get version 1.25 or Generation_7_Electronics. Version 1.25 and earlier are "1.5 layer" designed boards (i.e. it's double sided board, but one of layers can easily be replaced with wire-jumpers) that is printable on your RepRap with the etch resist pen method, or home fabbed with toner transfer.

Safety Tip

Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif

Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop smoke detector. Got no smoke detector? Get one!


Assembly

Component Soldering

Shield Assembly

Beginning solderers may find the task much easier if they were to work from the inside of the board to the outside, rather than using the current order below.
1.3 Board
  1. Resistors as shown to the right.
  2. Small 100nF capacitor, C4 (yellow)
  3. LED - Positive(long lead) at the top, ground (Short lead) at the bottom.
  4. D2 1N4004 the diode just above the reset button. Make sure the stripe is oriented the same as the silkscreen on the board.
  5. Place the 2x3 male pin headers on top of the board, 8 of them needed. These are for microstep selection jumpers, and endstop jacks. It is easiest to place all these and hold them in place with a card to flip board for soldering. Make sure the tail (short side) of the pins goes into your board. Also, make sure the endstop pins are actually in the endstop holes and not shifted one hole to the right in the I2C pads.
  6. Solder 6x1 male pins header in the T0, T1, & T2 holes for thermistor jack. Solder one of the end pins first, straighten the pins to be perpendicular to the board and solder the rest of the pins.
  7. Solder 1x4 male pin headers for the motor connectors. You need to put these in the 4 pads next to X,Y,Z,E0, & E1. If your bot uses 2 motors on Z axis put 2 sets on Z (else you can just use 1 on Z).
  8. Two 1x24 socket headers into place for the X,Y, and Z stepper driver sockets.
  9. (4) 1x8 socket headers into place for the E0 & E1 stepper driver sockets.
  10. Solder the large capacitors, C4, the 100nF capacitor, C5,C8 10uF capacitor as shown lower right.
    • They must be inserted in the correct orientation. + to the top for C4 and C5 or left for C8.
  11. Mosfets, Q1,Q2,Q3, the three N-channel mosfet, STP55NF06L (these can be made nice and straight by soldering one pin on each mosfet, straightening component, then soldering other pins)
    • They must be oriented in correctly (as per photographs)
  12. The big yellow MF-R500 fuse (F1) and bigger yellow MF-R1100 fuse (F2).
  13. Power connector, X1, the 4 pin fixed/pluggable terminal block.
  14. Screw terminal block, (6 pin)
  15. Pass-through headers that will connect the shield to the Arduino board (around the perimeter of the board). This includes the (1) 2 x 18 Pin Stackable Female Header, the (5) 1 x 8 Pin Stackable Female Header and the (1) 1 x 6 Pin Stackable Female Header.
    • More recent kits include 2x18, 1x22, and 1x24 pin headers for connection to the Arduino MEGA. Cut the 1x24 headers into (1) 1x6 + (5) 1x8 lengths. If you insert these into the Arduino MEGA to hold them straight while soldering, take care not to heat for too long risking melting the Arduino's connector.
  • You can omit D1, the 1N4004 diode. The diode can be omitted, it may be needed in the future for printing from SD or USB. This will power the Arduino from the shields 12V input. Diodes must be oriented correctly.

If you are using higher than 12V to power the shield you should omit the diode to prevent damage to the Arduino and stepper drivers.Warning: The high side of the stepper boards are designed to accept up to 35V, but if you do this the heater and other high side outputs will be at that voltage also. You may need to adjust the heater resistance, etc.

  1. Reset switch, S1, push button switch
  1. Thoroughly check for shorts (This is crucially crucial for DIY etched boards.)
    • Check for continuity between each and every pin to the pins next to them and GND, 12V, 5V (VCC).
    • Set your meter to beep for continuity, hold a probe on GND and check all soldered pins. If it beeps check if it is supposed to be GND and contine. Repeat for 12V and 5V.

Stepper Driver Boards

    • Jumpers need installed under each stepper driver:
 jumper   Yes/No  step size
 1     2    3
 no   no    no    full step
 yes  no    no    half step
 no   yes   no    1/4 step
 yes  yes   no    1/8 step
 yes  yes   yes   1/16 step

For now the default is 1/16 micro stepping (all jumpers installed under drivers)

  1. Cut the pin headers to 8 pins long so that they fit each side of the stepper driver.
  2. Insert the pin headers into the sockets on RAMPS
  3. Fit the stepper drivers onto the pin headers and solder. Only heat each pin for a few seconds at time to avoid damage to the socket.
    Close up of Pololu Driver Board
    • Glue the heatsink (if used) to the top of the A4983 chip using the provided pad of double-sided adhesive.

Opto Endstops

    • Cut the 26awg 3 conductor cable into 3 length.
      Close up of endstop connector on endstop.
    • Note: you may want until you've built your machine to cut the cables to the perfect length.
      Close up of endstop connection on RAMPS
    • WARNING In order to keep the PCB at a printable resolution two wires have been flipped from the traditional opto endstop boards. The signal pin has been moved to the outside of the connector.
    • Hooking these up incorrectly can damage the components.
    • crimp and solder a female connector to the ends of each wire. (solder not necessary with proper crimp tools)
    • use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing.
    • Connect at least the minimum endstops.
RAMPS End
SIG (S) White
GND (-) Black
VCC (+) Red
Endstop End
VCC (+) Red
SIG (S) White
GND (-) Black

Mechanical Endstops

The recommended firmwares provide a configuration to use mechanical endstops with just these two wires.

Connect GND on RAMPS to C on the switch. Connect S on RAMPS to NC on the switch.

Put the connectors on the motor wires

    • solder a female connector to the ends of each wire.
    • use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing.
    • Shown is the type used for servos in RC projects. See Stepper Motors for info on motors.

Thermistor Wires

Use a 2 pin 0.1" connector to terminate the thermistor wires.

    • Connect the cable so the 2 wires go to T0
  1. Connect the 2 heater wires to D10 (E0H on older boards) and the + connection above it.
    • If changing to an unverified firmware it is best to verify heater circuit function with a meter before connecting heater to prevent damage to the extruder.

Final Setup

Wiring

It is relatively simple to wire up the RAMPS. Just add the extruder heating coil wire to D10, the thermistor to the two T0 pins on middle right right, and wire up the steppers and endstops. From left to right, wire all of the stepper motor's wires as red, blue, green, and black or red, green, yellow, blue into the pins next to the Pololus. When you connect the wires to the endstops (if you are using 3 endstops, plug them into the MIN (-) slots), make sure you match the labels.

RAMPS wiring

Pre-Flight Check

If you think you may have mistakes you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.

The trimpot on the stepper drivers controls the current limit. Turn it all the way down (counter clock wise) and back up 25%. Be careful to not force the trimpot, it is delicate. You will need to fine tune the current limit later. Note that it is allways giving the motors that much power, even when not moving, so if your stepper motor drivers are getting hot, you may want to turn it down slightly.

Connect the minimum endstops for X,Y, and Z

Connect Motors (Do not disconnect or connect motors while powered; if the connection is loose, this will cause the motors to spazz and possibly kill your stepper driver.)

Install firmware (More info below). Firmware flashing can be done without 12V power supply connected.

Warnings

Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard.

Incorrectly inserting stepper drivers will destroy your electronics and cause a fire risk. Always make sure power and USB is disconnected when removing or adjusting stepper drivers. Always make sure to insert drivers in correct orientation and in the socket correctly.

The endstop pins are Signal - GND - VCC, instead of the VCC - Sig - GND like the rest of RepRaps boards. Make sure to wire them correctly. This is done to allow squeezing fatter traces on the printable board.

Connecting Power

power connection, +/-

Connect your 12V power supply to the RAMPS shield.Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard

The bottom pair of connectors marked 5A power the stepper drivers and Extruder heater/fan (D9,D10). The power supplied to these should be rated a minimum of 5A.

The pair of connectors above marked 11A power a Heated Bed, or other output (D11). The power supplied here should be rated a minimum 11A. (If both power rails are connected to the same supply it should have a minimum rating of 16A)

The barrel connector on the Arduino MEGA is not used for our application.

The power connector plug may not be obviously labeled, looking at the power connection the positive is on the left and the negative is on the right of the plug.

Power Supply

RAMPS 1.3 uses RAMPS is quite happy with the 12 V line from PCPowerSupply. Or you can hack up a 12V laptop power supply, or other 12 V "wall wart" power supply. Be sure that the power can output 5A or greater. Additional 11A may be needed for heated bed support.

See Connecting power above.

Maximum Input Voltage

Power Supply without diode

The 1N4004 diode connects the RAMPS input voltage to the MEGA. If your board does not have this diode soldered in, you can safely input as much as 35V. (The pololus can do up to 35V)

Power Supply with diode

If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in, do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not recommended.

Final Check

Rampswire13.svg

Note that tesla & tonok firmware use d9 and sprinter and johnny/tonok use d10 for the extruder hot end.

Firmware and Pin Assignments

You will need the Arduino software at http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software to upload the firmware to Arduino Mega.

Working preconfigured firmwares are available at:

Preferred: (Need pins set in firmware as below)

https://github.com/tesla893/Tonokip-Firmware - Tesla893's Tonokip-Firmware fork, works w/ RepSnapper and Skeinforge - Added Features over original Tonokip but not as up to date as Klimentkip

https://github.com/kliment/Klimentkip - Kliment's Tonokip-Firmware Fork with Acceleration, PID, SD support, and other goodies - Updated frequently, with many active developers/hackers/users.

Others (Need pins set in Firmware as below):

https://github.com/johnnyr/Tonokip-Firmware works excellently with RepSnapper and Skeinforge - Not as current

https://github.com/ramps/FiveD_for_RAMPS_GCode_Interpreter for use with Host Software or ReplicatorG or RepSnapper

  • mechanical endstops (now the default ultimachine.com option) require #define OPTO_PULLUPS_INTERNAL 1 to be added to configuration.h

There are predefined pins for FiveD_on_Arduino in git master, but support is experimental. Programming works following the instructions in the wikipage.

Here are the pin definitions for this board.

// For RAMPS 1.3
#define X_STEP_PIN         54
#define X_DIR_PIN          55
#define X_ENABLE_PIN       38
#define X_MIN_PIN           3
#define X_MAX_PIN           2

#define Y_STEP_PIN         60
#define Y_DIR_PIN          61
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN       56
#define Y_MIN_PIN          14
#define Y_MAX_PIN          15

#define Z_STEP_PIN         46
#define Z_DIR_PIN          48
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN       62
#define Z_MIN_PIN          18
#define Z_MAX_PIN          19

#define E_STEP_PIN         26
#define E_DIR_PIN          28
#define E_ENABLE_PIN       24

#define SDPOWER            -1
#define SDSS               53
#define LED_PIN            13

#define FAN_PIN            9

#define PS_ON_PIN          12
#define KILL_PIN           -1

#define HEATER_0_PIN       10
#define HEATER_1_PIN       8
#define TEMP_0_PIN          13   // ANALOG NUMBERING
#define TEMP_1_PIN          14   // ANALOG NUMBERING

Source

FILE ID# TYPE DESCRIPTION DOWNLOAD
File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip Eagle Files These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.) media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip
File:RepRapjr.lbr Eagle Libraries The components used in this board are here. see Eagle_Library media:RepRapjr.lbr

Bill of Materials

ID Description Quantity Part Number Reichelt Order Number
U1 Arduino Mega 1 2560 or 1280
U2,U3,U4,U5 Pololu A4983 carrier 4 A fifth one can be used for a 2nd extruder or extra axis
C4 100nF capacitor (> highest planned voltage) 1 X7R-2,5 100N (verified)
C1,C5,C8 10uF capacitor (>5V) 3 RAD 10/35 (verified)
C6 100uF capacitor (> highest planned voltage) 1 RAD 100/25 (verified)
R1,R7,R11 4.7K resistor (250mW 1%) 3 METALL 4.70K
R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R8,R9,R10 100K resistor (250mW) 8 1/4W 100K
R12 1K resistor (250mW) 1 1/4W 1K
Q1,Q2,Q3 N-channel Mosfet 3 STP55NF06L ZXM 64N035 L3
D1,D2 Diode 2 1N4004 1N 4004
F1 PTC resettable fuse (30V, Hold5A, Trip10A) 1 MF-R500 PFRA 500
F2 PTC resettable fuse (Hold11A) 1 MF-R1100
J2 5.08 Eurostyle screw terminal (Min 11A per position more is better) 1 282837-6 AKL 101-06
LED1 3mm Green LED 1 LED 3MM ST GN
S1 Push button switch 1 FSMRACD TASTER 3305B
X1 Power jack (Plug and fixed receptacle)(Min 11A per position more is better) 1 MSTBA 2,5 and MSTBT 2,5 (5.04mm spacing 4 connector)
2 x 3 pin header 8
4 pin header 5 SL 1X36G 2,54 (3 of these)
6 pin header
2 x 18 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes) 1 MALE: SL 2X25G 2,54 (2 of them, shortened with a saw or pliers)
8 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes) 5
6 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes) 1
24 Pin Female Header * Note * 2 Required to carry enough current for motors
8 Pin Female Header * Note * 4 Required to carry enough current for motors
0.1" Jumpers 15
Circuit Board 1 v1.3

Note * You can use Female Headers which are not the exact size, but they are hard to break/cut so in this case buy some extra! (one wasted header per cut)

A (OUT OF DATE - shopping list for v1.2, needs updated to above list for 1.3) shopping cart for the german distributor reichelt has been assembled (by lImbus).

An untested BoM for RAMPS 1.3 is available at Mouser (USA).