Delta Rostock mini G2s

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1Delta Rostock mini G2s.jpg

This Rostock mini G2s is a companion piece of our new upgraded delta 3D printer -Rostock mini G2. G2s is designed to support dual extruder. With G2s you can print a single two-color object, or you can print two objects in one print job, each made from a different color. You can also print one single-color object, as with other single-extruder 3D printers. Or you can use one extruder for infill or support. The 2 extruder motor pushes filament through 2 head separately, so mixing colors printing is not applicable for the moment. This G2s is powered by our newly designed control system—GT2560 that supports 2 extruders and eliminates the complicated wiring of Mega2560+Ramps 1.4 and it is more space-saving. An auto-leveling auto-calibration device is also added on G2; which means you do not have to adjust it every time before you start printing, after the first assembly work, you can almost plug and play. In terms of printing filament, G2s not only support PLA and ABS, Nylon and wood filament is also available, which enables more possibilities to create 3D printing project. This G2s is also improved with LCD control panel; you can monitor the printing process in real time and with a SD card it can realize stand-alone printing, very convenient.

Main features:

1. With dual extruder, support multiple way of printing.

2. Support PLA, ABS, Nylon and Wood, giving more possibilities to create 3D printing project.

3. New updated control system.

4. Auto-leveling and auto-calibration.

5. More flexible effectors and diagonal rods.

6. More fluent printing process and higher precession.


Print Volume: 170 x 200mm

Chassis: laser -cut acrylic plate

The Layer Thickness: 0.1mm

Layer Resolution: 0.1mm

Filament Diameter: 1.75, 3mm

Nozzle Diameter: 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.5mm

Print Speed: 60 to 120 mm/sec

Print Plate Size: 210 x 3mm

Print Plate (Build Platform): aluminum plate + heatbed

XYZ Bearings: carbon steel

Stepper Motors: 1.8° step angle with 1/16 micro-stepping

Max Heated Bed Temp: about 110 ℃

Max Extruder Temp: about 240 ℃

AC Input: 115V/1.5A 230V/0.75A


No. of Extruders: 2

Connectivity (Interface): USB, SD Card

Electronics: Geeetech GT2560

3D printing Software: Repetier Host

CAD Input data file format supported: STL, G code

Client Operating System: Windows, Linux, Mac

Machine Dimensions: 320 x 320 x 870mm

Machine weight:9kg

Shipping box dimensions:495*395*195mm

Shipping box weight:10kg


download the BOM here Media:Delta Rostock mini G2 Package List.pdf


Download the .STL file for the printed part here


Slic3r config

Printing test file

Building Instruction

For detailed building instruction, please visit here.

You can also download the PDF version here Media:Delta Rostock mini G2& G2s building instruction.pdf

Make sure to check the shipping manifest before you begin your build - if any part is missing (or duplicated), immediately contact Geeetech support.

If you can, take a picture of the complete kit - all laid out - and a picture of the shipping manifest with the 'Signed off by' signature in the photo. This will help Geeetech quickly verify the missing components, and start the RMA process.

Assembly Tips

These assembly tips are community provided, and are not official Geeetech recommendations.

Use at your own risk. If in doubt, contact Geeetech directly for supported assembly assistance.

General Tips

  • Verify that all parts in the shipping manifest are present before you begin.
  • Read the entire build manual before you begin!
    • There are photos later in the manual that may help you with earlier build steps.
  • Use a white plate or piece of paper to hold all the small pieces you need for a build step.
    • This way you can make sure you have all the pieces at the ready, and missed none.
  • If you have to use more than a light pressure to complete a step - check the assembly tips below!
    • Very rarely is more than a light pressure needed to complete this kit. Too much force can break the acrylic or printed parts.

Acrylic Fasteners

It it very easy to break the acrylic by over tightening teh M3 square nuts.

If the acrylic piece does not fully seat into its socket, lightly sand the socket and the corners of the piece until they fit correctly (a light pressure should fully, but firmly, seat the piece into the socket).

The Acrylic 'square' M3 nuts are designed for a light load. When tightening the bolt into the nut, only tighten to a snug fit.


Driving Pulley Attachment

When attaching the driving pulley to the stepper motor, the shaft of the stepper motor should extend approx 4mm from the face of the pulley.

After tightening the primary screw against the flat of the motor shaft, either remove or fully tighten the remaining screw in the pulley.

Failure to do so will allow the screw to wiggle loose during printing, and will case the pulley to jam against its acrylic enclosure.

Initial Bed Levelling (during build)

During bed installation, use a reference height (such as a M3x12 bolt from bag 18) to make sure that each top of each bed mounting point is the same after tightening the wingnuts.

Simply place a M3x12 bolt (head down) next to the bed (not under!), and tighten until the end of the bolt it at the same level as the top of the bed. Repeat for the other two mounts.

Z-Probe Switch and Rod-End Bearing Installation Order

The G2/G2S Build Manual (as of Sept 4, 2015) has the Z-Probe Switch installation procedure before the Rod-End Bearings procedure.

If done in that order, the Z-Probe Switch will prevent the installation and tightening of the Rod-End Bearing retaining bolts.

Reorder the building instructions as follows:

  1. Proceed through the manual until you reach the Z-Probe and Switch installation section.
  2. Skip ahead, and install the Spider's Rod-End Bearings (but not the Diagonal Rods themselves)
  3. Return to the Z-Probe and Switch installation chapter.
  4. Continue instructions as per normal from the point after the Z-Probe Switch installation

Z-Probe Switch Installation

For the Z-Probe switch, you are required to screw through both the switch and the spider with the M3 retaining bolt.

Before installing on the spider, screw both bolts through the switch until the ends are flush with the opposite side of the switch.

When installing on the spider, tighten each bolt a 1/4 turn at a time, until both bolts have begun to screw into the spider, then tighten normally.

There should be no more than a 1mm gap between the Z-Probe Switch and the spider.

Alternatively, widen the switch's mounting holes using a 1/8" US drill bit.

Smooth Rod Tightening

Always finger-tighten first - you should only need 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn of your hex wrench to fully tighten the 4mm bolts into the smooth rods.

It can be difficult to tighten the lubricated smooth rods by hand. If you have a pair of vice-grips, you can pad the jaws (foam or cloth to prevent scratches to the smooth rods) and clamp down tightly.

If you cannot finger-tighten the 4mm bolts fully, add washers! - see the Assembly Mods section below for details. Since the 4mm threads in the smooth rods are 'blind' (they don't have an exit hole for debris) if they have a metal chip or other debris inside, the 4mm bolt won't fully seat. Attempting to over-tighten the bolt in the blind threaded hole may break your hex wrench, or the head of the bolt itself!

Idler Pulley

Tighten the retaining bolt

It is of critical importance to fully tighten the bolt in the middle of the sheet metal U holder for the idler pulley.

If the bolt is not fully tightened, when the wingnut is used to secure the pulley, it can cause the bolt to back out slightly, and press against the belt. This can then cause the belt to jam, and cause a head crash.

Tighten the wingnut

The wingnut cannot be used to adjust belt tension (unless you use the 'Idler Pulley Guide' modification). The wingnut must be fully tightened, or the sheet metal holder can 'lean' slightly, and cause the belt to jam against the pulley holder.

Adjust belt tension by loosening the wingnut, changing the belt notch that is held by the carriage belt retainer, then fully tightening the wingnut.

Cable Tidying

Endstop Cabling

When tidying the cable, it is good practice to separate the signal cables (endstops) from the driving cables (extruder control and fans).

Twist each endstop wire. This will reduce the noise that can be picked up the cable.

Then, put all three endstop cables in a separate wire bundle from the extruder stepper and fan cables.

Although Marlin firmware (the default shipped with the G2/G2s) appears to only check the endstop signals while homing, other firmwares (such as Repetier) can be configured to check the endstop signals continuously. If the endstop signal is too noisy, this setting will cause layers to randomly shift in the X/Y plane, especially on fast extruder operations such as retractions.

Building Modifications

The following are community provided modifications to the Geeetech Delta Rostock G2/G2S, and are not supported by nor approved by Geeetech. Use at your own risk.

Enable Both Heatbed Coils

Some shipped Geeetech Heat Beds are improperly wired, and will only run half of the heating coils.

To resolve the issue, you will need to solder a thick wire (or at least 2 Arduino jumper pins) across pads 2 and 3 on the heat bed.

Improve Heatbed Insulation

A problem with the G2/G2s heatbed design is that air currents under heat bed can make it difficult to reach the high temperatures needed for ABS printing.

To solve that issue, you may want to add insulation to the heatbed.

Adjusting the Bed Levelling From The Top

If you have especially slippery acrylic, you may find that the wingnuts may spin when you try to adjust the bed height via the recessed bolts in the bed.

If you have this issue, place a M3 lock washer (not included in the Geeetech kit) under the wing nuts, to prevent the wing nuts from spinning.

Z-Probe Lock Ring

If you have problems with the Z-Probe lock ring slipping, or are worried that your will strip the plastic threads in the lock ring while tightening the jam bolt, simply file a flat into the Z-Probe at the location where the lock ring will be.

Then, the lock ring will be unable to slip.

G2S J-Head Orientation

The G2S build documentation leaves the orientation of the J-Head up to the user. Many different orientations are possible.

J-Head Teflon Guide Solution

In some PEEK J-Heads, it has been observed that the Teflon filament guide it too short by approx 5mm.

This can cause a plug of plastic to develop between the Teflon guide and the heating block, and cause oozing of plastic between the threads of the PEEK cold side and the heating block. This oozing will create a ~4mm plug of plastic in the hot-end, and will gradually harden and caramelize, causing a very difficult to remove jam.

This problem can be resolved by adding a 2mm spacer (make of two M3 washers) at the top of the Teflon guide, and, as a side effect, also allows a 0.5mm gap between the PEEK cylinder and the heating block, improving cold end performance.

Frame Tightness Solution

If your frame is wobbly, the problem may be that the acrylic base plates are slightly thinner than specified.

To check, use a caliper to measure the thickness of the top and bottom acrylic base plates.

If they are in spec (8mm or slightly thicker) then do not perform this modification - your frame issues are elsewhere.

If your base or top acrylic plates are thinner (for example, in my G2S the base plate was 8mm, but the top plate was 7mm), you will be able to feel the end of the smooth rod slightly protruding through the acrylic, instead of inset, as required to stiffen the frame.

To resolve this issue, remove the suspect acrylic plate, and replace the single M8x1mm washers on the smooth rod ends with either two M8x1mm washers, or a single US 5/16th" x 1/16th" (approx 8mm x 1.5mm) washer. Note that all of the washers for the plate must be identical.

Incorrectly Threaded Smooth Rods Solution

In some instances, the smooth rods' 4mm end threads are too shallow by a few mm, due to variation of manufacture.

In this case, you will be unable to fully finger-tighten the 4mm bolts into the rods.

If this occurs, use the spare 4mm washers in Bag #6 to bridge the gap.

Do not attempt to over-tighten the 4mm bolts - if they can not be fully threaded, it is because they have hit the end of the blind 4mm hole - it is physically impossible for them to be tightened down any further!

Belt Jam at Idler Pulley Solution

If you are getting jams at the Idler Pulley, first verify that:

  • The idler retaining bolt is fully tightened - if not, it can back out when the wingnut on the idler pulley is tightened, and jam against the belt.
  • The idler retaining wingnut is fully tightened - if not, the idler pulley can end up at a slant, and the belt will jam against the idler pulley holder.
  • The belt is fully inserted into the carriage belt retainer - if not, the belt will angle towards the idler pulley, and can jam against the idler pulley retainer.

If you have checked all of those and still have issues with belt jams, print out this File:Delta Rostock mini G2s MOD idlerpulley guide.stl (originally from Thingiverse user Gidim) 6 times, and insert it on the idler pulley bearings, between the belt and the idler pulley housing.

They should take under 3 minutes to print at 0.3mm layer height and 25% infill, if you print all 6 of them at a time. If you have issues with stringiness or other quality issues, print as many as you can fit on the bed, and pick the best 6 to use.

Endstop Bolts Missing Endstop Switch Solution

As the G2/G2s "wears in", the endstop bolts may begin to miss the endstop switches, as the hex retaining area in the carriage under the spring wears out - this will cause homing failures, and excessive belt wear.

To correct this, remove the spring from the endstop bolt, and use the 3mm hex holder on the carriage to retain the bolt.

After this modification, the endstop bolt will no longer have any slop.

NOTE: As with all endstop modifications, you must recalibrate your tower endstops:

  1. Run G28 to home to endstops
  2. Run G131 to clear tool offsets (temporarily)
  3. Run G84 to disable steppers motors
  4. Place a ruler (at least 200mm) under the carriage, on top of the smooth rod washer.
  5. Move the carriage down to the ruler
  6. Repeat this with the other two other axes
  7. All carriages are now at an equal height
  8. Run G132 S1 to home, and count offset steps, and save to EEPROM

WARNING: You must verify proper endstop switch electrical operation (using M119) before this modification! Failure to do so will result in damage to the endstop switch, as there will no longer be any vertical "springiness" at the homing position.

Excess Slop on Rod Ends Solution

Some shipments of the G2/G2s have an incorrectly manufactured "Item 3, Rod-end bearing holder, D6.5 23mm" - the shipped product is 24mm, not 23mm.

This variance causes a slop of ~0.2mm at the rod ends, and >3mm of movable slop in the spider effector itself.

To eliminate the slop, there are three options:

Repetier Firmware Configuration

This is my (User:Ezrec's) first cut at a Repetier firmware config (0.91).

NOTE: If your Z Probe has any side to side or back to front wiggle, do not use autoprobing! Your head will tilt and slide all over the place, and you may damage your nozzle.

NOTE: This firmware config was built for a RAMPS 1.4 hardware, and has not been tested on the GT2560 controller. Use at your own risk.

Firmware config for Repetier 0.91: File:Delta Rostock mini G2s MOD Repetier 0.91 Configuration.h.

This configuration file has the full JSON config in it, so feel free to feed it back into Repetier's web-based configuration generator to build a firmware for a different version.


J-Head Leaks

If plastic oozes out between the PEEK cold region and the metal hot end, you may need to heat-tighten the J-Head.

First, a note of warning - until you have verified and calibrated the operation of your hot end/thermistor combination, DO NOT SET THE EXTRUDER ABOVE 200C.

Without the active cooling fan, the PEEK cylinder could begin to melt at approx 240C. If you have a poorly calibrated thermistor, you can easily exceed 240C if you set the hot-end temperature above 220C. To be safe, set the hot end to at or below 200C.

Since PEEK slightly expands when heated, if the J-Head was too cold when initially assembled, the PEEK threads will loosen once the PEEK reaches target temperature, and will allow plastic to ooze out between the threads.

The solution is as follows:

  • Heat the J-Head up to approx 200C (using your G-Code sender, RepetierHost is what Geeetech suggests), and let it "soak" at 200C for approx 5 minutes.
  • Using a vice-grip on the metal heater block of the J-Head (making sure not to clamp onto the nozzle!), loosen the heater block by a quarter turn
  • Wipe off any excess plastic from the heater block and PEEK cylinder with a dry paper towel.
    • Be careful not to wipe the nozzle - you can easily plug up a 0.3mm nozzle with paper fibers.
  • Tighten the heater block to a snug fit.

Do not over-tighten the J-Head! A snug fit is all that is needed - too much force will break the PEEK threads and destroy the head.

NOTE: For the G2s model, you may need to disassemble the spider's J-Head holder to be able to loosen and tighten the heater block.

G2s Misaligned Hot Ends

If you are getting prints on a G2s where the second J-Head's nozzle tip is hitting your print, then the one of your hot ends needs to be tightened.

This is especially visible on spiral-vase prints, and a spiral vase is a great object to use for this type of calibration. Make sure to have both J-Heads heated, so that you can see a blemish, instead of the interfering hot end causing a mechanical jam!

If your left J-Head nozzle is hitting the print while the right J-Head is extruding, tighten your left J-Head's hot end 1/8th of a turn.

If your right J-Head nozzle is hitting the print while the left J-Head is extruding, tighten your right J-Head's 1/8th of a turn.

If adjusting the hot-end is not able to eliminate the interference, add a 4mm washer (Bag #6) between the top retaining bracket and spider, where the 4mm bolt passes through. If the front J-Head is interfering, add a 4mm washer to the front, and if the rear J-Head is interfering, add a 4mm washer to the back.

set up

for detailed set up instruction, you can see at here.