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Revision as of 03:45, 17 January 2012 by Cdaringe (talk | contribs) (Mounting)
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Release status: Working

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Truly free/libre hot end
CAD Models
External Link



  • Aluminum Block Resistor Hotend
  • Easily assembled and torn down with no glue or ceramic
  • Wire Strain Relief
  • Includes machined aluminum and steel parts, and laser cut wooden parts
  • Compatible with Wade's and Greg's accessible extruder
  • Currently compatible with:


  • Size: (H,W,L) 55mm, 40mm, 40mm
  • Aluminum block resistor
  • Aluminum and copper heatsink
  • PEEK GF30 insulator
  • PTFE inner sleeve
  • Laser cut hard wood plates
  • Machined stainless steel back-up plate


Mounting the Budaschnozzle is SUPER easy. Once your carriage is mounted and ready to go, place the Budaschnozzle into the carriage hotend hole. Line up the holes in the Budaschnozzle mount plate with the extruder mounting holes in the carriage. Put your extruder on top of the Budaschnozzle mount plate lining up the extruder mount holes with the holes in the mount plate and carriage. Push in the the screws that are compatible with your carriage (generally M4 screws). Screw on the nuts and tighten the screws. Bam, done.

Tip: Put a scrap piece of plastic filament through the extruder and into the hot-end before you tighten down the extruder. You do not need to heat the Budaschnozzle, just lightly push the filament down until it reaches the nozzle. This will align the filament travel space to give a nice smooth movement of the filament through the extruder and hot-end.


We have found some limits to the current Budaschnozzle design. These limitation are specifically because of the PEEK insulator. To prevent any breaks or melting of the PEEK insulator please follow these guidelines:

  • Never heat the hot-end over 230C
  • Never allow the nozzle to drag on the print bed when printing the first layer. This can put stress on the hotend and crack the PEEK insulator
  • If you have a clog in the nozzle it is best to clean out the nozzle rather than continuing to push plastic into the hot-end.
  • We suggest running your filament through a piece of foam or sponge to clean any dust off of the filament.
  • Do not extrude faster than 90mm/min. If you do extrude faster than this speed you take the chance of blowing out the PEEK insulator.


  • Changing A Broken PEEK Insulator

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A thermal table has been created for the Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01 thermistor for use with the Buddhaschnozzle. The thermal table is included in the Sprinter firmware and is used by selecting thermistor 7 in the Configuration.h file in Sprinter. Change the line "#define THERMISTORHEATER 1" to "#define THERMISTORHEATER 7"


Bill of Materials Spread sheet Spread sheet of bill of materials .ods
Heater Block 2D & 3D CAD drawings CAD drawing for the heater block .pdf, .SLDDRW, .SLDPRT
Nozzle 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the nozzle .pdf, .SLDDRW, .SLDPRT
Peek Isolator 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the PEEK isolator .pdf, .SLDDRW, .SLDPRT
Upper Plate 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the Upper Plate .pdf, .SLDDRW, .SLDPRT
Lower Plate 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the Lower Plate .SLDPRT
Backup Plate 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the Backup Plate .pdf, .SLDDRW, .SLDPRT
Copper Heatsink 2D & 3D CAD drawing CAD drawing for the Copper heatsink .pdf, .SLDDRW, .SLDPRT
Budaschnozzle Mount 3D CAD model and drawing 3D CAD model for the Budaschnozzle mount .stl, .SLDPRT


LulzBot Budaschnozzle