https://reprap.org/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Sjw107273131&feedformat=atomRepRap - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T07:33:12ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.30.0https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Thinkmaker&diff=128489Thinkmaker2014-06-27T05:36:51Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
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[[File:Thinkmaker_sch.png]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Thinkmaker_sch.png&diff=128488File:Thinkmaker sch.png2014-06-27T04:07:43Z<p>Sjw107273131: Sjw107273131 uploaded a new version of &quot;File:Thinkmaker sch.png&quot;</p>
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<div>wait me!</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_1.4/zh_cn&diff=82327RAMPS 1.4/zh cn2013-02-16T04:02:26Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 必备工具 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RAMPS}}<br />
<br />
{{Languages|RAMPS 1.4}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = RAMPS 1.4<br />
|description = RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield<br />
Arduino MEGA based modular RepRap electronics.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = johnnyr<br />
|reprap = Pololu Electronics<br />
|categories = [[:Category:RAMPS|RAMPS]][[Category:RAMPS]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
<br />
=目录=<br />
<br />
In RAMPS 1.4, the resistors and capacitors are now surface mount to fit more passive components. This does add another set of steps to assembly, but we stuck with larger sizes to make it fairly painless.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
Image:Arduinomega1-4connectors.png<br />
Image:RAMPS1.4schematic.png<br />
Image:Ramps_v1.4_shield_bothsides.png<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= 安全提示 =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=安装=<br />
==元件焊接==<br />
==必备工具==<br />
必须有:<br />
烙铁,焊锡,镊子<br />
最好准备:<br />
焊锡带,吸锡器,助焊笔<br />
可选的方法使用:<br />
焊膏,电热板或电热炉<br />
<br />
===焊接RAMPS扩展板===<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3pasteapplied.JPG|thumb]] <br />
焊接RAMPS 1.4包括贴片焊接和通孔焊接两部分。<br />
<br />
焊接贴片元件有几种方法。板上所有的SMT元件都有两个焊盘,所以把元件两个引脚依次焊上很容易。先在一个焊盘上抹点焊锡,有助焊剂的话,就在附锡的焊盘上抹点儿。对准引脚与焊盘,用镊子固定住元件,加热焊锡使之粘附(保证加热均匀,以防造成冷焊),然后再焊另一个引脚。也有使用焊锡膏,回流焊与[[HotplateReflowTechnique]]。<br />
<br />
先焊接贴片元件,然后是板上的PTH,最后焊接板下面的引脚头。<br />
<br />
==== C2 - 100nF电容====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100nF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
放置时不区分方向。<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
==== LED1 - 绿色LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 GrLED.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
==== LED2, LED3, LED4 - 红色LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 redLEDs.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R13, R14, R15 - 10 Ohm电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10r.JPG|thumb]]<br />
放置时不区分方向。<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R12 - 1K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
放置时不区分方向。<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R23, R24, R25 - 1.8K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1-8k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These are marked 1K on the PCB, but we are using larger ones to accommodate higher voltages. These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====R1, R7, R11, R21, R22 - 4.7K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4-7k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
放置时不区分方向。<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R16, R17, R18, R19, R20 - 10K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
放置时不区分方向。<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R8, R9, R10 - 100K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
放置时不区分方向。<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====C1, C5, C8 - 10uF电容====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, C10 - 100uF电容====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB. <br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====回流焊====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3_placed.JPG|200px|thumb]] [[Image:RAMPS1-3 smtSoldered.JPG|thumb]]<br />
If you are doing oven or hot plate method, now is the time apply heat (add links here). If you used a solder iron, you have probably already soldered all these components.<br />
<br />
Make sure to inspect the SMT soldering at this point since it will be harder to rework after the headers are on top.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Top pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 tpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Solder 1 1x6, 6 1x4, and 7 2x3 pin headers on top of the board. The long post should be standing up to take a connector. Solder one leg on each one to tack them into place. Then re-heat the joint and push on the component until it is perfectly situated. Then you'll want to solder the rest of the leads. You will get burnt if you touch the other side of the pin you are soldering.<br />
<br />
If you want to use the extra pin outputs, now is the time to solder on the rest of the headers.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====驱动板插座====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DrSockets.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place the female headers for the stepper drivers on top of the board. You can use the 1x8 and 1x6 pin headers to jig them straight. Turn the board over and solder these pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====D1, D2 - 二极管====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DnF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 and D2 diodes]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The band on the diode must be turned the same way as the mark on the board.<br />
<br />
Definitely solder D2 in. D2, F1, and F2 are shown installed here.<br />
<br />
D1 should only be installed if the 5A rail is powered by 12V. It can be omitted and the Arduino will be powered from USB. You will want D1 installed if you add components to print without a PC. To reiterate, D1 MUST be omitted if you are powering the 5A rail by more than 12V, or the power is not absolutely clean, otherwise you may damage your ramps.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
====F1 - MFR500 保险丝====<br />
This is the smaller yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation. When soldering the fuses it is best to use a piece of 3mm filament or something similar to keep the ceramic coating on the pins from blocking proper solder along the through hole.<br />
<br />
Since the fuses are the tallest parts, it is simpler and more convenient to solder them last. From this point on, solder the rest of the RAMPS in order of bottom pins, reset switch, terminals, mosfets and then fuses.<br />
<br />
====F2 - MFR1100 保险丝====<br />
This is the larger yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Q1, Q2, Q3 - 场效应管====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 mosfet.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be orientated as in the picture. The tall heat sink part of the mosfet needs to be turned the same as the mark on the board.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Mosfet Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 6pos.JPG |thumb|Standard RAMPS 1.4 D8-10 Terminal Block]]<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-4 6pos_alt.png |thumb|Alternative Plug/Jack Connectors]]<br />
This must be oriented where the wire holes are turned towards the edge of the board. Solder a pin on each end and make sure the component is flat on the board and solder the middle pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Power Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4pos.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Bottom pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 bpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[image:DSC 0148.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Place these on the bottom of the board with the long post out to plug into the Arduino MEGA. You can plug them into the MEGA to hold them in place while you solder. Do not overheat the pins while in Arduino or you may damage it's connectors.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====复位开关====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 rst.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====检查====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG|200px|thumb]]<br />
Inspect your work. Clean any solder bridges and suspect solders.<br />
<br />
===步进电机驱动板===<br />
#*Jumpers need to be installed under each stepper driver:<br />
<br />
jumper Yes/No step size<br />
1 2 3<br />
no no no full step<br />
yes no no half step<br />
no yes no 1/4 step<br />
yes yes no 1/8 step<br />
yes yes yes 1/16 step<br />
For now the default is 1/16 micro stepping (all jumpers installed under drivers)<br />
<br />
#Cut the pin headers to 8 pins long so that they fit each side of the stepper driver.<br />
#Insert the pin headers into the sockets on RAMPS<br />
#Fit the stepper drivers onto the pin headers and solder. Only heat each pin for a few seconds at time to avoid damage to the socket. <br />
#*Glue the heatsink (if used) to the top of the [[A4988]]/[[A4983]] chip using the provided pad of double-sided adhesive.<br />
<br />
===光电限位开关===<br />
Opto board 2.1 build instructions can be found [http://reprap.org/wiki/OptoEndstop_2.1#Build_It here on the reprap opto page], and also [http://reprapsource.com/oe-r1 here] for reprapsource.com's instructions.<br />
#* Cut the 26awg 3 conductor cable into 3 length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConnector.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connector on endstop.]]<br />
#* Note: you may want until you've built your machine to cut the cables to the perfect length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConboard.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connection on RAMPS]]<br />
##* crimp and solder a female connector to the ends of each wire. (solder not necessary with proper crimp tools) <br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing.<br />
#* Connect at least the minimum endstops. <br />
{| border="1"<br />
| RAMPS End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|}<br />
{| border="1" <br />
| Endstop End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===机械限位开关===<br />
[[File:MechSwitches 2Wire.JPG|thumb]]<br />
The recommended firmware will provide a configuration to use mechanical endstops with just two wires. <br />
<br />
Find the area labelled "endstops" in the upper right corner of the board and for each of the X, Y, and Z pairs of pins (label should be below each set) do the following: <br />
# Connect S (top row, labelled to the left) on RAMPS to NC on the switch.<br />
# Connect GND on RAMPS to C on the switch.<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' The latest firmware such as Marlin seems to use NO as the default pin on the switch. Otherwise you may need to invert the endstops in the firmware. You can use M119 to check your endstops status.<br />
<br />
===Put the connectors on the motor wires===<br />
#* solder a female connector to the ends of each wire.<br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing. <br />
#* Shown is the type used for servos in RC projects. See [[Stepper Motors]] for info on motors.<br />
<br />
===热敏电阻连线===<br />
Use a 2 pin 0.1" connector to terminate the thermistor wires.<br />
#* Connect the cable so the 2 wires go to T0<br />
#Connect the 2 heater wires to D10 (E0H on older boards) and the + connection above it.<br />
#* If changing to an unverified firmware it is best to verify heater circuit function with a meter before connecting heater to prevent damage to the extruder.<br />
<br />
===Pololu carriage===<br />
[[image:PololuExample.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This section assumes you are using Pololu, but there are other options. Insert two 1x8 pin headers into the board. If you bought a kit with one 16 pin header, simply cut it so that you have two 1x8. Make sure that the side with the labels has the long ends of the posts, and the side you want to solder is the side with the heat sink. Doing this backwards will cause you not to see the labels and will most likely not fit. Remember to apply a heat-sink to the largest chip on the back.<br />
<br />
=最后安装=<br />
==Pre-Flight Check==<br />
If you think you may have mistakes you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.<br />
<br />
The trimpot on the stepper drivers controls the current limit. Turn it all the way down (counter clock wise) and back up 25%. Be careful to not force the trimpot, it is delicate. You will need to fine tune the current limit later. Note that it is allways giving the motors that much power, even when not moving, so if your stepper motor drivers are getting hot, you may want to turn it down slightly.<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield#Make_the_cables_up_for_the_opto_endstops Connect the minimum endstops] for X,Y, and Z<br />
<br />
Connect Motors (Do not disconnect or connect motors while powered; if the connection is loose, this will cause the motors to spazz and possibly kill your stepper driver.)<br />
<br />
You may want to use this [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS14_test.zip code] to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares.<br />
<br />
Install firmware (More info below). Firmware flashing can be done without 12V power supply connected.<br />
<br />
==Wiring==<br />
It is relatively simple to wire up the RAMPS. Just add the extruder heating coil wire to D10, the thermistor to the two T0 pins on middle right right, and wire up the steppers and endstops. From left to right, wire all of the stepper motor's wires as red, blue, green, and black or red, green, yellow, blue into the pins next to the Pololus. When you connect the wires to the endstops (if you are using 3 endstops, plug them into the MIN (-) slots), make sure you match the labels. <br />
<br />
[[Image:Rampswire14.svg|500px|]]<br />
<br />
Note that tesla & tonok firmware use d9 and sprinter and johnny/tonok use d10 for the extruder hot end.<br />
<br />
===警告===<br />
<br />
<font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard.<br />
<br />
Incorrectly inserting stepper drivers will destroy your electronics and cause a fire risk. Always make sure power and USB is disconnected when removing or adjusting stepper drivers. Always make sure to insert drivers in correct orientation and in the socket correctly.<br />
<br />
The endstop pins are Signal - GND - VCC, instead of the VCC - Sig - GND like the rest of RepRaps boards. Make sure to wire them correctly. This is done to allow squeezing fatter traces on the printable board.</font><br />
<br />
==Connecting Power==<br />
<br />
Connect your 12V power supply to the RAMPS shield. <font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard</font>.<br />
<br />
The bottom pair of connectors marked 5A power the stepper drivers and Extruder heater/fan (D9, D10). The source should be rated a minimum of 5A.<br />
<br />
The pair of connectors above marked 11A power a Heated Bed, or other output (D8). The source should be rated a minimum 11A (if both power rails are connected to the same supply it should have a minimum rating of 16A).<br />
<br />
The barrel connector, on the Arduino MEGA, will NOT power RAMPS and will not provide power to the stepper motors, heated bed, etc.<br />
<br />
The power connector plug may not be obviously labeled, looking at the power connection the positive is on the left and the negative is on the right of the plug.<br />
<br />
==供电电源==<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 diode (note that D2 is shown at the left, not D1)]]<br />
RAMPS is quite happy with the 12 V line from [[PCPowerSupply]].<br />
Or you can hack up a 12V laptop power supply, or other 12 V "wall wart" power supply. <font color="red"> Be sure that the power can output 5A or greater.</font> Additional 11A may be needed for heated bed support.<br />
<br />
See Connecting power above.<br />
<br />
The 3 pins next to the reset switch are meant to optionally connect to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The PS_ON pin is intended to switch your power supply on and off. Many firmwares support pulling this pin low with M80 command to turn the power supply on, and M81 to turn it off. This behavior is desired for ATX power supplies and can be modified in firmware to support 5V high power supplies like those borrowed from an Xbox.<br />
<br />
Without D1 installed, or when the 12VIN is not connected, the Arduino gets its power from USB. If you want your kit powered without USB connected you need to solder in D1 OR connect VCC to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The VCC pin can be connected to your ATX's 5Vsb to continuously power the Arduino from your ATX power supply. You will want to make sure that D1 is not installed or cut out. The Arduino is not designed to be powered directly on the VCC rail and the VIN pin at the same time.<br />
<br />
The 5V pin in that connector on RAMPS only supplies the 5V to the auxiliary servo connectors. It is designed so that you can jumper it to the VCC pin and use the Arduino's power supply to supply 5V for extra servos if you are only powered from USB or 5V. Since there is not a lot of extra power from the Arduino's power supply you can connect it<br />
directly to your 5V power supply if you have one. You can also leave this pin not connected if you have no plan to add extra servos.<br />
<br />
===最大输入电压===<br />
====Power Supply without diode====<br />
The 1N4004 diode connects the RAMPS input voltage to the MEGA. If your board does not have this diode soldered in, you can safely input as much as 35V. (The pololus can do up to 35V)<br />
====Power Supply with diode====<br />
If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in, do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not recommended.<br />
<br />
=Firmware and Pin Assignments=<br />
<br />
<font color="red">RAMPS 1.4 uses the same pin definitions as 1.3.</font><br />
<br />
You will need the Arduino software at http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software to upload the firmware to Arduino Mega. Arduino MEGA 2560 Rev3 requires Arduino software version 0023.<br />
<br />
[[Sprinter]] and [[Marlin]] are popular and stable firmwares for RAMPS as of 3/28/2012. [[Pronterface]] is a cross platform printer control program that can be used for testing/printing.<br />
<br />
Working preconfigured sprinter firmware can be downloaded at http://ultimachine.com/sites/default/files/UltiMachineRAMPS1-4Sprinter.zip . Mechanical is in the folder ending with ME, optical endstop firmware is in the folder ending in OE.<br />
<br />
Others (Need pins set in Firmware as below):<br />
<br />
*mechanical endstops (now the default ultimachine.com option) require '''#define OPTO_PULLUPS_INTERNAL 1''' to be added to configuration.h if not there by default.<br />
<br />
Here are the pin definitions for this board.<br />
<pre><br />
// For RAMPS 1.4<br />
#define X_STEP_PIN 54<br />
#define X_DIR_PIN 55<br />
#define X_ENABLE_PIN 38<br />
#define X_MIN_PIN 3<br />
#define X_MAX_PIN 2<br />
<br />
#define Y_STEP_PIN 60<br />
#define Y_DIR_PIN 61<br />
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN 56<br />
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14<br />
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15<br />
<br />
#define Z_STEP_PIN 46<br />
#define Z_DIR_PIN 48<br />
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN 62<br />
#define Z_MIN_PIN 18<br />
#define Z_MAX_PIN 19<br />
<br />
#define E_STEP_PIN 26<br />
#define E_DIR_PIN 28<br />
#define E_ENABLE_PIN 24<br />
<br />
#define SDPOWER -1<br />
#define SDSS 53<br />
#define LED_PIN 13<br />
<br />
#define FAN_PIN 9<br />
<br />
#define PS_ON_PIN 12<br />
#define KILL_PIN -1<br />
<br />
#define HEATER_0_PIN 10<br />
#define HEATER_1_PIN 8<br />
#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
#define TEMP_1_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==源文件==<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
| Eagle Files<br />
| These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.)<br />
| [[media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
| Eagle Libraries<br />
| The components used in this board are here. see [[Eagle_Library]]<br />
| [[media:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Bill of Materials==<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! ID<br />
! Description<br />
! Quantity<br />
! Part Number<br />
! Reichelt Order Number<br />
! Digikey Part Number (Description) <br />
|-<br />
| U1<br />
| Arduino Mega<br />
| 1<br />
|2560 or 1280<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| U2,U3,U4,U5<br />
| [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s<br />
| 4<br />
| A fifth one can be used for a 2nd extruder or extra axis<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| C2<br />
| 100nF capacitor (0805)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| C1,C5,C8<br />
| 10uF capacitor (153CLV-0405)(>5V)<br />
| 3<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| C3,C4,C6,C7,C9,C10<br />
| 100uF capacitor (153CLV-0605)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 6<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R1,R7,R11,R21,R22<br />
| 4.7K resistor (0805)(1%)<br />
| 5<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R8,R9,R10<br />
| 100K resistor (0805)<br />
| 8<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R12<br />
| 1K resistor (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R23,R24,R26<br />
| 1.8K resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R16,R17,R18,R19,R20<br />
| 10K resistor (0805)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R13,R14,R15<br />
| 10 ohm resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| Q1,Q2,Q3<br />
| N-channel Mosfet<br />
| 3<br />
| STP55NF06L<br />
| ZXM 64N035 L3<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=497-6742-5-ND 497-6742-5-ND] (MOSFET N-CH 60V 55A TO-220)<br />
|-<br />
| D1,D2<br />
| Diode<br />
| 2<br />
| 1N4004<br />
| 1N 4004<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=1N4004FSCT-ND 1N4004FSCT-ND] (DIODE GEN PURPOSE 400V 1A DO41)<br />
|-<br />
| F1<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (30V, Hold5A, Trip10A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R500<br />
| PFRA 500<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=MF-R500-ND MF-R500-ND] (FUSE PTC RESETTABLE 5A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| F2<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (Hold11A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R1100<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=RGEF1100-ND RGEF1100-ND] (POLYSWITCH RGE SERIES 11.0A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| J2<br />
| D8-D10 Outputs // 6 position screw terminal (min 11A per contact) OR Jack/Plug connector pair<br />
| 1<br />
| 282837-6<br />
| AKL 101-06<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7857-ND WM7857-ND] (CONN TERMINAL BLOCK 6POS 5.08MM) <br/>Alternative: 1x [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020109-H061A01LF/609-4284-ND/2509130 609-4284-ND] & 1x [http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=609-4218-ND&x=0&y=0&cur=USD 609-4218-ND]. [https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--1nJttlNQDs/UNfmaLXKiTI/AAAAAAAADxQ/Z6CSD4V8r6I/s617/20121223_194819.jpg May prevent overtemp events]<br />
|-<br />
| LED1<br />
| Green LED (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|LED2,LED3,LED4<br />
| Red LED (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| S1<br />
| Push button switch<br />
| 1<br />
| B3F-3100 <br />
| TASTER 3305B (should fit footprint also, but button will overhang board edge)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=450-1648-ND 450-1648-ND] (SWITCH TACT RA H=6.35MM)<br />
|-<br />
| X1<br />
| Power jack (Plug and fixed receptacle)(Min 11A per position more is better)<br />
| 1<br />
| MSTBA 2,5 and MSTBT 2,5 (5.04mm spacing 4 connector)<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7847-ND WM7847-ND] (CONN HEADER 4POS 5.08MM R/A TIN) &amp; [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7953-ND WM7953-ND] (CONN TERM BLOCK 4POS 5.08MM R/A)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 3 pin header<br />
| 8<br />
| 961206-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9459-ND 3M9459-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT DUAL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 4 pin header<br />
| 5<br />
| 961104-6404-AR<br />
| SL 1X36G 2,54 (3 of these)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9449-ND 3M9449-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 4POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 pin header<br />
| 2 (? - from http://gala-automation.com/index.php/component/content/article/26-reprap-tutorials/42-ramps-14-bom)<br />
| 961106-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9451-ND 3M9451-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 18 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
| MALE: SL 2X25G 2,54 (2 of them, shortened with a saw or pliers)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7121-ND S7121-ND] (CONN HEADER FMAL 36PS.1" DL GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7039-ND S7039-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 6POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 24 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 2<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7057-ND S7057-ND] (CONN HEADER FMALE 24POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 4<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 0.1" Jumpers<br />
| 15<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=A26242-ND A26242-ND] (SHUNT LP W/HANDLE 2 POS 30AU)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| Circuit Board<br />
|1<br />
|v1.4<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|}<br />
Note * You can use Female Headers which are not the exact size, but they are hard to break/cut so in this case buy some extra! (one wasted header per cut)<br />
<br />
A BOM for sourcing the RAMPS components from Mouser is also available in [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Auf-66FPv0JidHhtRVB0VVplOURwWklrX0tIeXhsS3c&hl=en_US#gid=0 this google spreadsheet]<br />
<br />
Shopping lists for v1.4 [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=d126a71257] .</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Rampswire14.svg&diff=82325File:Rampswire14.svg2013-02-16T03:24:54Z<p>Sjw107273131: uploaded a new version of "File:Rampswire14.svg":&#32;Reverted to version as of 21:36, 25 March 2012</p>
<hr />
<div>copy from http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/e/e3/Rampswire13.svg with poles on D8, D9 and D10 reversed to reflect Ramps 1.4 connections</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User_talk:Traumflug&diff=81953User talk:Traumflug2013-02-12T16:13:30Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>Hi there.<br />
<br />
Made some suggestions [[User:Danielpublic/RepRap/Mainpage_suggestions|here]] for the mainpage.<br />
Another would be to link "''a sysop's talk page''" on the mainpage [[Talk:RepRap|talk page]].<br />
I'd like to do it myself, however I feel that [[Admin]] is not precise enough.[[User:Danielpublic|Danielpublic]] 11:12, 17 November 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
Sorry, I forgot to sign my comment at the bottom of the page. -ljyang<br />
<br />
oops, didn't see the comment section at the bottom of your page. -BP<br />
<br />
sorry,please help me to delet http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:Rampswire14.svg by sjw107273131,it is wrong....</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Rampswire14.svg&diff=81946File:Rampswire14.svg2013-02-12T15:53:30Z<p>Sjw107273131: uploaded a new version of "File:Rampswire14.svg":&#32;中文版(Chinese versions)</p>
<hr />
<div>copy from http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/e/e3/Rampswire13.svg with poles on D8, D9 and D10 reversed to reflect Ramps 1.4 connections</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_1.4/zh_cn&diff=81944RAMPS 1.4/zh cn2013-02-12T15:29:30Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 模块安装 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RAMPS}}<br />
<br />
{{Languages|RAMPS 1.4}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = RAMPS 1.4<br />
|description = RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield<br />
Arduino MEGA based modular RepRap electronics.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = johnnyr<br />
|reprap = Pololu Electronics<br />
|categories = [[:Category:RAMPS|RAMPS]][[Category:RAMPS]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
<br />
=目录=<br />
<br />
In RAMPS 1.4, the resistors and capacitors are now surface mount to fit more passive components. This does add another set of steps to assembly, but we stuck with larger sizes to make it fairly painless.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
Image:Arduinomega1-4connectors.png<br />
Image:RAMPS1.4schematic.png<br />
Image:Ramps_v1.4_shield_bothsides.png<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= 安全提示 =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=安装=<br />
==元件焊接==<br />
==必备工具==<br />
You must have:<br />
Solder iron, solder wire, good tweezers<br />
You really need:<br />
Solder wick, solder sucker, flux pen<br />
Optional methods use:<br />
Solder paste, hot plate or oven <br />
<br />
===组装RAMPS扩展板===<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3pasteapplied.JPG|thumb]] <br />
Soldering RAMPS 1.4 includes both surface mount and through hole soldering.<br />
<br />
The surface mount can be done a few ways. Since all the SMT components on this board are large 2 pad parts you can do pin by pin soldering pretty easy with normal soldering equipment. Start by putting a small amount of solder on one pad. If you have flux, coat the soldered pad. Use the tweezers to hold the component down in position and heat the solder to tack the component into place (make sure the entire solder blob flows so you don't get a cold solder). Then solder the other pad. Also popular is using solder paste for pad by pad soldering, Oven Reflow (need link), and [[HotplateReflowTechnique]]<br />
<br />
Solder the SMT components first. Then the PTH on top of the board. Finally solder the pin headers on the bottom.<br />
<br />
==== C2 - 100nF电容====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100nF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
==== LED1 - 绿色LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 GrLED.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
==== LED2, LED3, LED4 - 红色LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 redLEDs.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R13, R14, R15 - 10 Ohm电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10r.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R12 - 1K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R23, R24, R25 - 1.8K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1-8k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These are marked 1K on the PCB, but we are using larger ones to accommodate higher voltages. These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====R1, R7, R11, R21, R22 - 4.7K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4-7k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R16, R17, R18, R19, R20 - 10K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R8, R9, R10 - 100K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====C1, C5, C8 - 10uF电容====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, C10 - 100uF电容====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB. <br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====回流焊====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3_placed.JPG|200px|thumb]] [[Image:RAMPS1-3 smtSoldered.JPG|thumb]]<br />
If you are doing oven or hot plate method, now is the time apply heat (add links here). If you used a solder iron, you have probably already soldered all these components.<br />
<br />
Make sure to inspect the SMT soldering at this point since it will be harder to rework after the headers are on top.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Top pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 tpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Solder 1 1x6, 6 1x4, and 7 2x3 pin headers on top of the board. The long post should be standing up to take a connector. Solder one leg on each one to tack them into place. Then re-heat the joint and push on the component until it is perfectly situated. Then you'll want to solder the rest of the leads. You will get burnt if you touch the other side of the pin you are soldering.<br />
<br />
If you want to use the extra pin outputs, now is the time to solder on the rest of the headers.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====驱动板插座====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DrSockets.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place the female headers for the stepper drivers on top of the board. You can use the 1x8 and 1x6 pin headers to jig them straight. Turn the board over and solder these pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====D1, D2 - 二极管====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DnF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 and D2 diodes]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The band on the diode must be turned the same way as the mark on the board.<br />
<br />
Definitely solder D2 in. D2, F1, and F2 are shown installed here.<br />
<br />
D1 should only be installed if the 5A rail is powered by 12V. It can be omitted and the Arduino will be powered from USB. You will want D1 installed if you add components to print without a PC. To reiterate, D1 MUST be omitted if you are powering the 5A rail by more than 12V, or the power is not absolutely clean, otherwise you may damage your ramps.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
====F1 - MFR500 保险丝====<br />
This is the smaller yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation. When soldering the fuses it is best to use a piece of 3mm filament or something similar to keep the ceramic coating on the pins from blocking proper solder along the through hole.<br />
<br />
Since the fuses are the tallest parts, it is simpler and more convenient to solder them last. From this point on, solder the rest of the RAMPS in order of bottom pins, reset switch, terminals, mosfets and then fuses.<br />
<br />
====F2 - MFR1100 保险丝====<br />
This is the larger yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Q1, Q2, Q3 - 场效应管====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 mosfet.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be orientated as in the picture. The tall heat sink part of the mosfet needs to be turned the same as the mark on the board.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Mosfet Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 6pos.JPG |thumb|Standard RAMPS 1.4 D8-10 Terminal Block]]<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-4 6pos_alt.png |thumb|Alternative Plug/Jack Connectors]]<br />
This must be oriented where the wire holes are turned towards the edge of the board. Solder a pin on each end and make sure the component is flat on the board and solder the middle pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Power Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4pos.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Bottom pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 bpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[image:DSC 0148.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Place these on the bottom of the board with the long post out to plug into the Arduino MEGA. You can plug them into the MEGA to hold them in place while you solder. Do not overheat the pins while in Arduino or you may damage it's connectors.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====复位开关====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 rst.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====检查====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG|200px|thumb]]<br />
Inspect your work. Clean any solder bridges and suspect solders.<br />
<br />
===步进电机驱动板===<br />
#*Jumpers need to be installed under each stepper driver:<br />
<br />
jumper Yes/No step size<br />
1 2 3<br />
no no no full step<br />
yes no no half step<br />
no yes no 1/4 step<br />
yes yes no 1/8 step<br />
yes yes yes 1/16 step<br />
For now the default is 1/16 micro stepping (all jumpers installed under drivers)<br />
<br />
#Cut the pin headers to 8 pins long so that they fit each side of the stepper driver.<br />
#Insert the pin headers into the sockets on RAMPS<br />
#Fit the stepper drivers onto the pin headers and solder. Only heat each pin for a few seconds at time to avoid damage to the socket. <br />
#*Glue the heatsink (if used) to the top of the [[A4988]]/[[A4983]] chip using the provided pad of double-sided adhesive.<br />
<br />
===光电限位开关===<br />
Opto board 2.1 build instructions can be found [http://reprap.org/wiki/OptoEndstop_2.1#Build_It here on the reprap opto page], and also [http://reprapsource.com/oe-r1 here] for reprapsource.com's instructions.<br />
#* Cut the 26awg 3 conductor cable into 3 length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConnector.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connector on endstop.]]<br />
#* Note: you may want until you've built your machine to cut the cables to the perfect length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConboard.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connection on RAMPS]]<br />
##* crimp and solder a female connector to the ends of each wire. (solder not necessary with proper crimp tools) <br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing.<br />
#* Connect at least the minimum endstops. <br />
{| border="1"<br />
| RAMPS End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|}<br />
{| border="1" <br />
| Endstop End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===机械限位开关===<br />
[[File:MechSwitches 2Wire.JPG|thumb]]<br />
The recommended firmware will provide a configuration to use mechanical endstops with just two wires. <br />
<br />
Find the area labelled "endstops" in the upper right corner of the board and for each of the X, Y, and Z pairs of pins (label should be below each set) do the following: <br />
# Connect S (top row, labelled to the left) on RAMPS to NC on the switch.<br />
# Connect GND on RAMPS to C on the switch.<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' The latest firmware such as Marlin seems to use NO as the default pin on the switch. Otherwise you may need to invert the endstops in the firmware. You can use M119 to check your endstops status.<br />
<br />
===Put the connectors on the motor wires===<br />
#* solder a female connector to the ends of each wire.<br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing. <br />
#* Shown is the type used for servos in RC projects. See [[Stepper Motors]] for info on motors.<br />
<br />
===热敏电阻连线===<br />
Use a 2 pin 0.1" connector to terminate the thermistor wires.<br />
#* Connect the cable so the 2 wires go to T0<br />
#Connect the 2 heater wires to D10 (E0H on older boards) and the + connection above it.<br />
#* If changing to an unverified firmware it is best to verify heater circuit function with a meter before connecting heater to prevent damage to the extruder.<br />
<br />
===Pololu carriage===<br />
[[image:PololuExample.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This section assumes you are using Pololu, but there are other options. Insert two 1x8 pin headers into the board. If you bought a kit with one 16 pin header, simply cut it so that you have two 1x8. Make sure that the side with the labels has the long ends of the posts, and the side you want to solder is the side with the heat sink. Doing this backwards will cause you not to see the labels and will most likely not fit. Remember to apply a heat-sink to the largest chip on the back.<br />
<br />
=最后安装=<br />
==Pre-Flight Check==<br />
If you think you may have mistakes you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.<br />
<br />
The trimpot on the stepper drivers controls the current limit. Turn it all the way down (counter clock wise) and back up 25%. Be careful to not force the trimpot, it is delicate. You will need to fine tune the current limit later. Note that it is allways giving the motors that much power, even when not moving, so if your stepper motor drivers are getting hot, you may want to turn it down slightly.<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield#Make_the_cables_up_for_the_opto_endstops Connect the minimum endstops] for X,Y, and Z<br />
<br />
Connect Motors (Do not disconnect or connect motors while powered; if the connection is loose, this will cause the motors to spazz and possibly kill your stepper driver.)<br />
<br />
You may want to use this [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS14_test.zip code] to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares.<br />
<br />
Install firmware (More info below). Firmware flashing can be done without 12V power supply connected.<br />
<br />
==Wiring==<br />
It is relatively simple to wire up the RAMPS. Just add the extruder heating coil wire to D10, the thermistor to the two T0 pins on middle right right, and wire up the steppers and endstops. From left to right, wire all of the stepper motor's wires as red, blue, green, and black or red, green, yellow, blue into the pins next to the Pololus. When you connect the wires to the endstops (if you are using 3 endstops, plug them into the MIN (-) slots), make sure you match the labels. <br />
<br />
[[Image:Rampswire14.svg|500px|]]<br />
<br />
Note that tesla & tonok firmware use d9 and sprinter and johnny/tonok use d10 for the extruder hot end.<br />
<br />
===警告===<br />
<br />
<font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard.<br />
<br />
Incorrectly inserting stepper drivers will destroy your electronics and cause a fire risk. Always make sure power and USB is disconnected when removing or adjusting stepper drivers. Always make sure to insert drivers in correct orientation and in the socket correctly.<br />
<br />
The endstop pins are Signal - GND - VCC, instead of the VCC - Sig - GND like the rest of RepRaps boards. Make sure to wire them correctly. This is done to allow squeezing fatter traces on the printable board.</font><br />
<br />
==Connecting Power==<br />
<br />
Connect your 12V power supply to the RAMPS shield. <font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard</font>.<br />
<br />
The bottom pair of connectors marked 5A power the stepper drivers and Extruder heater/fan (D9, D10). The source should be rated a minimum of 5A.<br />
<br />
The pair of connectors above marked 11A power a Heated Bed, or other output (D8). The source should be rated a minimum 11A (if both power rails are connected to the same supply it should have a minimum rating of 16A).<br />
<br />
The barrel connector, on the Arduino MEGA, will NOT power RAMPS and will not provide power to the stepper motors, heated bed, etc.<br />
<br />
The power connector plug may not be obviously labeled, looking at the power connection the positive is on the left and the negative is on the right of the plug.<br />
<br />
==供电电源==<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 diode (note that D2 is shown at the left, not D1)]]<br />
RAMPS is quite happy with the 12 V line from [[PCPowerSupply]].<br />
Or you can hack up a 12V laptop power supply, or other 12 V "wall wart" power supply. <font color="red"> Be sure that the power can output 5A or greater.</font> Additional 11A may be needed for heated bed support.<br />
<br />
See Connecting power above.<br />
<br />
The 3 pins next to the reset switch are meant to optionally connect to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The PS_ON pin is intended to switch your power supply on and off. Many firmwares support pulling this pin low with M80 command to turn the power supply on, and M81 to turn it off. This behavior is desired for ATX power supplies and can be modified in firmware to support 5V high power supplies like those borrowed from an Xbox.<br />
<br />
Without D1 installed, or when the 12VIN is not connected, the Arduino gets its power from USB. If you want your kit powered without USB connected you need to solder in D1 OR connect VCC to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The VCC pin can be connected to your ATX's 5Vsb to continuously power the Arduino from your ATX power supply. You will want to make sure that D1 is not installed or cut out. The Arduino is not designed to be powered directly on the VCC rail and the VIN pin at the same time.<br />
<br />
The 5V pin in that connector on RAMPS only supplies the 5V to the auxiliary servo connectors. It is designed so that you can jumper it to the VCC pin and use the Arduino's power supply to supply 5V for extra servos if you are only powered from USB or 5V. Since there is not a lot of extra power from the Arduino's power supply you can connect it<br />
directly to your 5V power supply if you have one. You can also leave this pin not connected if you have no plan to add extra servos.<br />
<br />
===最大输入电压===<br />
====Power Supply without diode====<br />
The 1N4004 diode connects the RAMPS input voltage to the MEGA. If your board does not have this diode soldered in, you can safely input as much as 35V. (The pololus can do up to 35V)<br />
====Power Supply with diode====<br />
If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in, do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not recommended.<br />
<br />
=Firmware and Pin Assignments=<br />
<br />
<font color="red">RAMPS 1.4 uses the same pin definitions as 1.3.</font><br />
<br />
You will need the Arduino software at http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software to upload the firmware to Arduino Mega. Arduino MEGA 2560 Rev3 requires Arduino software version 0023.<br />
<br />
[[Sprinter]] and [[Marlin]] are popular and stable firmwares for RAMPS as of 3/28/2012. [[Pronterface]] is a cross platform printer control program that can be used for testing/printing.<br />
<br />
Working preconfigured sprinter firmware can be downloaded at http://ultimachine.com/sites/default/files/UltiMachineRAMPS1-4Sprinter.zip . Mechanical is in the folder ending with ME, optical endstop firmware is in the folder ending in OE.<br />
<br />
Others (Need pins set in Firmware as below):<br />
<br />
*mechanical endstops (now the default ultimachine.com option) require '''#define OPTO_PULLUPS_INTERNAL 1''' to be added to configuration.h if not there by default.<br />
<br />
Here are the pin definitions for this board.<br />
<pre><br />
// For RAMPS 1.4<br />
#define X_STEP_PIN 54<br />
#define X_DIR_PIN 55<br />
#define X_ENABLE_PIN 38<br />
#define X_MIN_PIN 3<br />
#define X_MAX_PIN 2<br />
<br />
#define Y_STEP_PIN 60<br />
#define Y_DIR_PIN 61<br />
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN 56<br />
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14<br />
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15<br />
<br />
#define Z_STEP_PIN 46<br />
#define Z_DIR_PIN 48<br />
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN 62<br />
#define Z_MIN_PIN 18<br />
#define Z_MAX_PIN 19<br />
<br />
#define E_STEP_PIN 26<br />
#define E_DIR_PIN 28<br />
#define E_ENABLE_PIN 24<br />
<br />
#define SDPOWER -1<br />
#define SDSS 53<br />
#define LED_PIN 13<br />
<br />
#define FAN_PIN 9<br />
<br />
#define PS_ON_PIN 12<br />
#define KILL_PIN -1<br />
<br />
#define HEATER_0_PIN 10<br />
#define HEATER_1_PIN 8<br />
#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
#define TEMP_1_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==源文件==<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
| Eagle Files<br />
| These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.)<br />
| [[media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
| Eagle Libraries<br />
| The components used in this board are here. see [[Eagle_Library]]<br />
| [[media:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Bill of Materials==<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! ID<br />
! Description<br />
! Quantity<br />
! Part Number<br />
! Reichelt Order Number<br />
! Digikey Part Number (Description) <br />
|-<br />
| U1<br />
| Arduino Mega<br />
| 1<br />
|2560 or 1280<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| U2,U3,U4,U5<br />
| [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s<br />
| 4<br />
| A fifth one can be used for a 2nd extruder or extra axis<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| C2<br />
| 100nF capacitor (0805)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| C1,C5,C8<br />
| 10uF capacitor (153CLV-0405)(>5V)<br />
| 3<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| C3,C4,C6,C7,C9,C10<br />
| 100uF capacitor (153CLV-0605)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 6<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R1,R7,R11,R21,R22<br />
| 4.7K resistor (0805)(1%)<br />
| 5<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R8,R9,R10<br />
| 100K resistor (0805)<br />
| 8<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R12<br />
| 1K resistor (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R23,R24,R26<br />
| 1.8K resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R16,R17,R18,R19,R20<br />
| 10K resistor (0805)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R13,R14,R15<br />
| 10 ohm resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| Q1,Q2,Q3<br />
| N-channel Mosfet<br />
| 3<br />
| STP55NF06L<br />
| ZXM 64N035 L3<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=497-6742-5-ND 497-6742-5-ND] (MOSFET N-CH 60V 55A TO-220)<br />
|-<br />
| D1,D2<br />
| Diode<br />
| 2<br />
| 1N4004<br />
| 1N 4004<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=1N4004FSCT-ND 1N4004FSCT-ND] (DIODE GEN PURPOSE 400V 1A DO41)<br />
|-<br />
| F1<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (30V, Hold5A, Trip10A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R500<br />
| PFRA 500<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=MF-R500-ND MF-R500-ND] (FUSE PTC RESETTABLE 5A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| F2<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (Hold11A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R1100<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=RGEF1100-ND RGEF1100-ND] (POLYSWITCH RGE SERIES 11.0A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| J2<br />
| D8-D10 Outputs // 6 position screw terminal (min 11A per contact) OR Jack/Plug connector pair<br />
| 1<br />
| 282837-6<br />
| AKL 101-06<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7857-ND WM7857-ND] (CONN TERMINAL BLOCK 6POS 5.08MM) <br/>Alternative: 1x [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020109-H061A01LF/609-4284-ND/2509130 609-4284-ND] & 1x [http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=609-4218-ND&x=0&y=0&cur=USD 609-4218-ND]. [https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--1nJttlNQDs/UNfmaLXKiTI/AAAAAAAADxQ/Z6CSD4V8r6I/s617/20121223_194819.jpg May prevent overtemp events]<br />
|-<br />
| LED1<br />
| Green LED (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|LED2,LED3,LED4<br />
| Red LED (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| S1<br />
| Push button switch<br />
| 1<br />
| B3F-3100 <br />
| TASTER 3305B (should fit footprint also, but button will overhang board edge)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=450-1648-ND 450-1648-ND] (SWITCH TACT RA H=6.35MM)<br />
|-<br />
| X1<br />
| Power jack (Plug and fixed receptacle)(Min 11A per position more is better)<br />
| 1<br />
| MSTBA 2,5 and MSTBT 2,5 (5.04mm spacing 4 connector)<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7847-ND WM7847-ND] (CONN HEADER 4POS 5.08MM R/A TIN) &amp; [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7953-ND WM7953-ND] (CONN TERM BLOCK 4POS 5.08MM R/A)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 3 pin header<br />
| 8<br />
| 961206-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9459-ND 3M9459-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT DUAL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 4 pin header<br />
| 5<br />
| 961104-6404-AR<br />
| SL 1X36G 2,54 (3 of these)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9449-ND 3M9449-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 4POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 pin header<br />
| 2 (? - from http://gala-automation.com/index.php/component/content/article/26-reprap-tutorials/42-ramps-14-bom)<br />
| 961106-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9451-ND 3M9451-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 18 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
| MALE: SL 2X25G 2,54 (2 of them, shortened with a saw or pliers)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7121-ND S7121-ND] (CONN HEADER FMAL 36PS.1" DL GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7039-ND S7039-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 6POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 24 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 2<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7057-ND S7057-ND] (CONN HEADER FMALE 24POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 4<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 0.1" Jumpers<br />
| 15<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=A26242-ND A26242-ND] (SHUNT LP W/HANDLE 2 POS 30AU)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| Circuit Board<br />
|1<br />
|v1.4<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|}<br />
Note * You can use Female Headers which are not the exact size, but they are hard to break/cut so in this case buy some extra! (one wasted header per cut)<br />
<br />
A BOM for sourcing the RAMPS components from Mouser is also available in [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Auf-66FPv0JidHhtRVB0VVplOURwWklrX0tIeXhsS3c&hl=en_US#gid=0 this google spreadsheet]<br />
<br />
Shopping lists for v1.4 [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=d126a71257] .</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_1.4&diff=81943RAMPS 1.42013-02-12T15:26:49Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* LED1 - 绿色LED */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RAMPS}}<br />
<br />
{{Languages|RAMPS 1.4}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = RAMPS 1.4<br />
|description = RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield<br />
Arduino MEGA based modular RepRap electronics.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = johnnyr<br />
|reprap = Pololu Electronics<br />
|categories = [[:Category:RAMPS|RAMPS]][[Category:RAMPS]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
In RAMPS 1.4, the resistors and capacitors are now surface mount to fit more passive components. This does add another set of steps to assembly, but we stuck with larger sizes to make it fairly painless.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
Image:Arduinomega1-4connectors.png<br />
Image:RAMPS1.4schematic.png<br />
Image:Ramps_v1.4_shield_bothsides.png<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Safety Tip =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=Assembly=<br />
==Component Soldering==<br />
==Required Tools==<br />
You must have:<br />
Solder iron, solder wire, good tweezers<br />
You really need:<br />
Solder wick, solder sucker, flux pen<br />
Optional methods use:<br />
Solder paste, hot plate or oven <br />
<br />
===Shield Assembly===<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3pasteapplied.JPG|thumb]] <br />
Soldering RAMPS 1.4 includes both surface mount and through hole soldering.<br />
<br />
The surface mount can be done a few ways. Since all the SMT components on this board are large 2 pad parts you can do pin by pin soldering pretty easy with normal soldering equipment. Start by putting a small amount of solder on one pad. If you have flux, coat the soldered pad. Use the tweezers to hold the component down in position and heat the solder to tack the component into place (make sure the entire solder blob flows so you don't get a cold solder). Then solder the other pad. Also popular is using solder paste for pad by pad soldering, Oven Reflow (need link), and [[HotplateReflowTechnique]]<br />
<br />
Solder the SMT components first. Then the PTH on top of the board. Finally solder the pin headers on the bottom.<br />
<br />
==== C2 - 100nF capacitor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100nF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
==== LED1 - Green LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 GrLED.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
==== LED2, LED3, LED4 - Red LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 redLEDs.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R13, R14, R15 - 10 Ohm resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10r.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R12 - 1K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R23, R24, R25 - 1.8K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1-8k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These are marked 1K on the PCB, but we are using larger ones to accommodate higher voltages. These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====R1, R7, R11, R21, R22 - 4.7K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4-7k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R16, R17, R18, R19, R20 - 10K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R8, R9, R10 - 100K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====C1, C5, C8 - 10uF capacitor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, C10 - 100uF capacitor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB. <br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Reflow SMT soldering====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3_placed.JPG|200px|thumb]] [[Image:RAMPS1-3 smtSoldered.JPG|thumb]]<br />
If you are doing oven or hot plate method, now is the time apply heat (add links here). If you used a solder iron, you have probably already soldered all these components.<br />
<br />
Make sure to inspect the SMT soldering at this point since it will be harder to rework after the headers are on top.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Top pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 tpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Solder 1 1x6, 6 1x4, and 7 2x3 pin headers on top of the board. The long post should be standing up to take a connector. Solder one leg on each one to tack them into place. Then re-heat the joint and push on the component until it is perfectly situated. Then you'll want to solder the rest of the leads. You will get burnt if you touch the other side of the pin you are soldering.<br />
<br />
If you want to use the extra pin outputs, now is the time to solder on the rest of the headers.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Driver sockets====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DrSockets.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place the female headers for the stepper drivers on top of the board. You can use the 1x8 and 1x6 pin headers to jig them straight. Turn the board over and solder these pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====D1, D2 - Diodes====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DnF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 and D2 diodes]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The band on the diode must be turned the same way as the mark on the board.<br />
<br />
Definitely solder D2 in. D2, F1, and F2 are shown installed here.<br />
<br />
D1 should only be installed if the 5A rail is powered by 12V. It can be omitted and the Arduino will be powered from USB. You will want D1 installed if you add components to print without a PC. To reiterate, D1 MUST be omitted if you are powering the 5A rail by more than 12V, or the power is not absolutely clean, otherwise you may damage your ramps.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
====F1 - MFR500 Fuse====<br />
This is the smaller yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation. When soldering the fuses it is best to use a piece of 3mm filament or something similar to keep the ceramic coating on the pins from blocking proper solder along the through hole.<br />
<br />
Since the fuses are the tallest parts, it is simpler and more convenient to solder them last. From this point on, solder the rest of the RAMPS in order of bottom pins, reset switch, terminals, mosfets and then fuses.<br />
<br />
====F2 - MFR1100 Fuse====<br />
This is the larger yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Q1, Q2, Q3 - Mosfets====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 mosfet.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be orientated as in the picture. The tall heat sink part of the mosfet needs to be turned the same as the mark on the board.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Mosfet Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 6pos.JPG |thumb|Standard RAMPS 1.4 D8-10 Terminal Block]]<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-4 6pos_alt.png |thumb|Alternative Plug/Jack Connectors]]<br />
This must be oriented where the wire holes are turned towards the edge of the board. Solder a pin on each end and make sure the component is flat on the board and solder the middle pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Power Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4pos.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Bottom pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 bpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[image:DSC 0148.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Place these on the bottom of the board with the long post out to plug into the Arduino MEGA. You can plug them into the MEGA to hold them in place while you solder. Do not overheat the pins while in Arduino or you may damage it's connectors.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Reset switch====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 rst.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Inspection====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG|200px|thumb]]<br />
Inspect your work. Clean any solder bridges and suspect solders.<br />
<br />
===Stepper Driver Boards===<br />
#*Jumpers need to be installed under each stepper driver:<br />
<br />
jumper Yes/No step size<br />
1 2 3<br />
no no no full step<br />
yes no no half step<br />
no yes no 1/4 step<br />
yes yes no 1/8 step<br />
yes yes yes 1/16 step<br />
For now the default is 1/16 micro stepping (all jumpers installed under drivers)<br />
<br />
#Cut the pin headers to 8 pins long so that they fit each side of the stepper driver.<br />
#Insert the pin headers into the sockets on RAMPS<br />
#Fit the stepper drivers onto the pin headers and solder. Only heat each pin for a few seconds at time to avoid damage to the socket. <br />
#*Glue the heatsink (if used) to the top of the [[A4988]]/[[A4983]] chip using the provided pad of double-sided adhesive.<br />
<br />
===Opto Endstops===<br />
Opto board 2.1 build instructions can be found [http://reprap.org/wiki/OptoEndstop_2.1#Build_It here on the reprap opto page], and also [http://reprapsource.com/oe-r1 here] for reprapsource.com's instructions.<br />
#* Cut the 26awg 3 conductor cable into 3 length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConnector.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connector on endstop.]]<br />
#* Note: you may want until you've built your machine to cut the cables to the perfect length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConboard.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connection on RAMPS]]<br />
##* crimp and solder a female connector to the ends of each wire. (solder not necessary with proper crimp tools) <br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing.<br />
#* Connect at least the minimum endstops. <br />
{| border="1"<br />
| RAMPS End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|}<br />
{| border="1" <br />
| Endstop End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mechanical Endstops===<br />
[[File:MechSwitches 2Wire.JPG|thumb]]<br />
The recommended firmware will provide a configuration to use mechanical endstops with just two wires. <br />
<br />
Find the area labelled "endstops" in the upper right corner of the board and for each of the X, Y, and Z pairs of pins (label should be below each set) do the following: <br />
# Connect S (top row, labelled to the left) on RAMPS to NC on the switch.<br />
# Connect GND on RAMPS to C on the switch.<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' The latest firmware such as Marlin seems to use NO as the default pin on the switch. Otherwise you may need to invert the endstops in the firmware. You can use M119 to check your endstops status.<br />
<br />
===Put the connectors on the motor wires===<br />
#* solder a female connector to the ends of each wire.<br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing. <br />
#* Shown is the type used for servos in RC projects. See [[Stepper Motors]] for info on motors.<br />
<br />
===Thermistor Wires===<br />
Use a 2 pin 0.1" connector to terminate the thermistor wires.<br />
#* Connect the cable so the 2 wires go to T0<br />
#Connect the 2 heater wires to D10 (E0H on older boards) and the + connection above it.<br />
#* If changing to an unverified firmware it is best to verify heater circuit function with a meter before connecting heater to prevent damage to the extruder.<br />
<br />
===Pololu carriage===<br />
[[image:PololuExample.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This section assumes you are using Pololu, but there are other options. Insert two 1x8 pin headers into the board. If you bought a kit with one 16 pin header, simply cut it so that you have two 1x8. Make sure that the side with the labels has the long ends of the posts, and the side you want to solder is the side with the heat sink. Doing this backwards will cause you not to see the labels and will most likely not fit. Remember to apply a heat-sink to the largest chip on the back.<br />
<br />
=Final Setup=<br />
==Pre-Flight Check==<br />
If you think you may have mistakes you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.<br />
<br />
The trimpot on the stepper drivers controls the current limit. Turn it all the way down (counter clock wise) and back up 25%. Be careful to not force the trimpot, it is delicate. You will need to fine tune the current limit later. Note that it is allways giving the motors that much power, even when not moving, so if your stepper motor drivers are getting hot, you may want to turn it down slightly.<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield#Make_the_cables_up_for_the_opto_endstops Connect the minimum endstops] for X,Y, and Z<br />
<br />
Connect Motors (Do not disconnect or connect motors while powered; if the connection is loose, this will cause the motors to spazz and possibly kill your stepper driver.)<br />
<br />
You may want to use this [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS14_test.zip code] to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares.<br />
<br />
Install firmware (More info below). Firmware flashing can be done without 12V power supply connected.<br />
<br />
==Wiring==<br />
It is relatively simple to wire up the RAMPS. Just add the extruder heating coil wire to D10, the thermistor to the two T0 pins on middle right right, and wire up the steppers and endstops. From left to right, wire all of the stepper motor's wires as red, blue, green, and black or red, green, yellow, blue into the pins next to the Pololus. When you connect the wires to the endstops (if you are using 3 endstops, plug them into the MIN (-) slots), make sure you match the labels. <br />
<br />
[[Image:Rampswire14.svg|500px|]]<br />
<br />
Note that tesla & tonok firmware use d9 and sprinter and johnny/tonok use d10 for the extruder hot end.<br />
<br />
===Warnings===<br />
<br />
<font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard.<br />
<br />
Incorrectly inserting stepper drivers will destroy your electronics and cause a fire risk. Always make sure power and USB is disconnected when removing or adjusting stepper drivers. Always make sure to insert drivers in correct orientation and in the socket correctly.<br />
<br />
The endstop pins are Signal - GND - VCC, instead of the VCC - Sig - GND like the rest of RepRaps boards. Make sure to wire them correctly. This is done to allow squeezing fatter traces on the printable board.</font><br />
<br />
==Connecting Power==<br />
<br />
Connect your 12V power supply to the RAMPS shield. <font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard</font>.<br />
<br />
The bottom pair of connectors marked 5A power the stepper drivers and Extruder heater/fan (D9, D10). The source should be rated a minimum of 5A.<br />
<br />
The pair of connectors above marked 11A power a Heated Bed, or other output (D8). The source should be rated a minimum 11A (if both power rails are connected to the same supply it should have a minimum rating of 16A).<br />
<br />
The barrel connector, on the Arduino MEGA, will NOT power RAMPS and will not provide power to the stepper motors, heated bed, etc.<br />
<br />
The power connector plug may not be obviously labeled, looking at the power connection the positive is on the left and the negative is on the right of the plug.<br />
<br />
==Power Supply==<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 diode (note that D2 is shown at the left, not D1)]]<br />
RAMPS is quite happy with the 12 V line from [[PCPowerSupply]].<br />
Or you can hack up a 12V laptop power supply, or other 12 V "wall wart" power supply. <font color="red"> Be sure that the power can output 5A or greater.</font> Additional 11A may be needed for heated bed support.<br />
<br />
See Connecting power above.<br />
<br />
The 3 pins next to the reset switch are meant to optionally connect to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The PS_ON pin is intended to switch your power supply on and off. Many firmwares support pulling this pin low with M80 command to turn the power supply on, and M81 to turn it off. This behavior is desired for ATX power supplies and can be modified in firmware to support 5V high power supplies like those borrowed from an Xbox.<br />
<br />
Without D1 installed, or when the 12VIN is not connected, the Arduino gets its power from USB. If you want your kit powered without USB connected you need to solder in D1 OR connect VCC to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The VCC pin can be connected to your ATX's 5Vsb to continuously power the Arduino from your ATX power supply. You will want to make sure that D1 is not installed or cut out. The Arduino is not designed to be powered directly on the VCC rail and the VIN pin at the same time.<br />
<br />
The 5V pin in that connector on RAMPS only supplies the 5V to the auxiliary servo connectors. It is designed so that you can jumper it to the VCC pin and use the Arduino's power supply to supply 5V for extra servos if you are only powered from USB or 5V. Since there is not a lot of extra power from the Arduino's power supply you can connect it<br />
directly to your 5V power supply if you have one. You can also leave this pin not connected if you have no plan to add extra servos.<br />
<br />
===Maximum Input Voltage===<br />
====Power Supply without diode====<br />
The 1N4004 diode connects the RAMPS input voltage to the MEGA. If your board does not have this diode soldered in, you can safely input as much as 35V. (The pololus can do up to 35V)<br />
====Power Supply with diode====<br />
If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in, do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not recommended.<br />
<br />
=Firmware and Pin Assignments=<br />
<br />
<font color="red">RAMPS 1.4 uses the same pin definitions as 1.3.</font><br />
<br />
You will need the Arduino software at http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software to upload the firmware to Arduino Mega. Arduino MEGA 2560 Rev3 requires Arduino software version 0023.<br />
<br />
[[Sprinter]] and [[Marlin]] are popular and stable firmwares for RAMPS as of 3/28/2012. [[Pronterface]] is a cross platform printer control program that can be used for testing/printing.<br />
<br />
Working preconfigured sprinter firmware can be downloaded at http://ultimachine.com/sites/default/files/UltiMachineRAMPS1-4Sprinter.zip . Mechanical is in the folder ending with ME, optical endstop firmware is in the folder ending in OE.<br />
<br />
Others (Need pins set in Firmware as below):<br />
<br />
*mechanical endstops (now the default ultimachine.com option) require '''#define OPTO_PULLUPS_INTERNAL 1''' to be added to configuration.h if not there by default.<br />
<br />
Here are the pin definitions for this board.<br />
<pre><br />
// For RAMPS 1.4<br />
#define X_STEP_PIN 54<br />
#define X_DIR_PIN 55<br />
#define X_ENABLE_PIN 38<br />
#define X_MIN_PIN 3<br />
#define X_MAX_PIN 2<br />
<br />
#define Y_STEP_PIN 60<br />
#define Y_DIR_PIN 61<br />
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN 56<br />
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14<br />
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15<br />
<br />
#define Z_STEP_PIN 46<br />
#define Z_DIR_PIN 48<br />
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN 62<br />
#define Z_MIN_PIN 18<br />
#define Z_MAX_PIN 19<br />
<br />
#define E_STEP_PIN 26<br />
#define E_DIR_PIN 28<br />
#define E_ENABLE_PIN 24<br />
<br />
#define SDPOWER -1<br />
#define SDSS 53<br />
#define LED_PIN 13<br />
<br />
#define FAN_PIN 9<br />
<br />
#define PS_ON_PIN 12<br />
#define KILL_PIN -1<br />
<br />
#define HEATER_0_PIN 10<br />
#define HEATER_1_PIN 8<br />
#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
#define TEMP_1_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==Source==<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
| Eagle Files<br />
| These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.)<br />
| [[media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
| Eagle Libraries<br />
| The components used in this board are here. see [[Eagle_Library]]<br />
| [[media:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Bill of Materials==<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! ID<br />
! Description<br />
! Quantity<br />
! Part Number<br />
! Reichelt Order Number<br />
! Digikey Part Number (Description) <br />
|-<br />
| U1<br />
| Arduino Mega<br />
| 1<br />
|2560 or 1280<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| U2,U3,U4,U5<br />
| [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s<br />
| 4<br />
| A fifth one can be used for a 2nd extruder or extra axis<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| C2<br />
| 100nF capacitor (0805)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| C1,C5,C8<br />
| 10uF capacitor (153CLV-0405)(>5V)<br />
| 3<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| C3,C4,C6,C7,C9,C10<br />
| 100uF capacitor (153CLV-0605)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 6<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R1,R7,R11,R21,R22<br />
| 4.7K resistor (0805)(1%)<br />
| 5<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R8,R9,R10<br />
| 100K resistor (0805)<br />
| 8<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R12<br />
| 1K resistor (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R23,R24,R26<br />
| 1.8K resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R16,R17,R18,R19,R20<br />
| 10K resistor (0805)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R13,R14,R15<br />
| 10 ohm resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| Q1,Q2,Q3<br />
| N-channel Mosfet<br />
| 3<br />
| STP55NF06L<br />
| ZXM 64N035 L3<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=497-6742-5-ND 497-6742-5-ND] (MOSFET N-CH 60V 55A TO-220)<br />
|-<br />
| D1,D2<br />
| Diode<br />
| 2<br />
| 1N4004<br />
| 1N 4004<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=1N4004FSCT-ND 1N4004FSCT-ND] (DIODE GEN PURPOSE 400V 1A DO41)<br />
|-<br />
| F1<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (30V, Hold5A, Trip10A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R500<br />
| PFRA 500<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=MF-R500-ND MF-R500-ND] (FUSE PTC RESETTABLE 5A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| F2<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (Hold11A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R1100<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=RGEF1100-ND RGEF1100-ND] (POLYSWITCH RGE SERIES 11.0A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| J2<br />
| D8-D10 Outputs // 6 position screw terminal (min 11A per contact) OR Jack/Plug connector pair<br />
| 1<br />
| 282837-6<br />
| AKL 101-06<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7857-ND WM7857-ND] (CONN TERMINAL BLOCK 6POS 5.08MM) <br/>Alternative: 1x [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020109-H061A01LF/609-4284-ND/2509130 609-4284-ND] & 1x [http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=609-4218-ND&x=0&y=0&cur=USD 609-4218-ND]. [https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--1nJttlNQDs/UNfmaLXKiTI/AAAAAAAADxQ/Z6CSD4V8r6I/s617/20121223_194819.jpg May prevent overtemp events]<br />
|-<br />
| LED1<br />
| Green LED (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|LED2,LED3,LED4<br />
| Red LED (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| S1<br />
| Push button switch<br />
| 1<br />
| B3F-3100 <br />
| TASTER 3305B (should fit footprint also, but button will overhang board edge)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=450-1648-ND 450-1648-ND] (SWITCH TACT RA H=6.35MM)<br />
|-<br />
| X1<br />
| Power jack (Plug and fixed receptacle)(Min 11A per position more is better)<br />
| 1<br />
| MSTBA 2,5 and MSTBT 2,5 (5.04mm spacing 4 connector)<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7847-ND WM7847-ND] (CONN HEADER 4POS 5.08MM R/A TIN) &amp; [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7953-ND WM7953-ND] (CONN TERM BLOCK 4POS 5.08MM R/A)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 3 pin header<br />
| 8<br />
| 961206-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9459-ND 3M9459-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT DUAL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 4 pin header<br />
| 5<br />
| 961104-6404-AR<br />
| SL 1X36G 2,54 (3 of these)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9449-ND 3M9449-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 4POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 pin header<br />
| 2 (? - from http://gala-automation.com/index.php/component/content/article/26-reprap-tutorials/42-ramps-14-bom)<br />
| 961106-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9451-ND 3M9451-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 18 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
| MALE: SL 2X25G 2,54 (2 of them, shortened with a saw or pliers)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7121-ND S7121-ND] (CONN HEADER FMAL 36PS.1" DL GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7039-ND S7039-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 6POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 24 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 2<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7057-ND S7057-ND] (CONN HEADER FMALE 24POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 4<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 0.1" Jumpers<br />
| 15<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=A26242-ND A26242-ND] (SHUNT LP W/HANDLE 2 POS 30AU)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| Circuit Board<br />
|1<br />
|v1.4<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|}<br />
Note * You can use Female Headers which are not the exact size, but they are hard to break/cut so in this case buy some extra! (one wasted header per cut)<br />
<br />
A BOM for sourcing the RAMPS components from Mouser is also available in [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Auf-66FPv0JidHhtRVB0VVplOURwWklrX0tIeXhsS3c&hl=en_US#gid=0 this google spreadsheet]<br />
<br />
Shopping lists for v1.4 [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=d126a71257] .</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_1.4&diff=81942RAMPS 1.42013-02-12T15:25:53Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* LED1 - Green LED */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RAMPS}}<br />
<br />
{{Languages|RAMPS 1.4}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = RAMPS 1.4<br />
|description = RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield<br />
Arduino MEGA based modular RepRap electronics.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = johnnyr<br />
|reprap = Pololu Electronics<br />
|categories = [[:Category:RAMPS|RAMPS]][[Category:RAMPS]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
In RAMPS 1.4, the resistors and capacitors are now surface mount to fit more passive components. This does add another set of steps to assembly, but we stuck with larger sizes to make it fairly painless.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
Image:Arduinomega1-4connectors.png<br />
Image:RAMPS1.4schematic.png<br />
Image:Ramps_v1.4_shield_bothsides.png<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= Safety Tip =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=Assembly=<br />
==Component Soldering==<br />
==Required Tools==<br />
You must have:<br />
Solder iron, solder wire, good tweezers<br />
You really need:<br />
Solder wick, solder sucker, flux pen<br />
Optional methods use:<br />
Solder paste, hot plate or oven <br />
<br />
===Shield Assembly===<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3pasteapplied.JPG|thumb]] <br />
Soldering RAMPS 1.4 includes both surface mount and through hole soldering.<br />
<br />
The surface mount can be done a few ways. Since all the SMT components on this board are large 2 pad parts you can do pin by pin soldering pretty easy with normal soldering equipment. Start by putting a small amount of solder on one pad. If you have flux, coat the soldered pad. Use the tweezers to hold the component down in position and heat the solder to tack the component into place (make sure the entire solder blob flows so you don't get a cold solder). Then solder the other pad. Also popular is using solder paste for pad by pad soldering, Oven Reflow (need link), and [[HotplateReflowTechnique]]<br />
<br />
Solder the SMT components first. Then the PTH on top of the board. Finally solder the pin headers on the bottom.<br />
<br />
==== C2 - 100nF capacitor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100nF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
==== LED1 - 绿色LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 GrLED.JPG |thumb]]<br />
有绿点的那端是负极,不要焊在PCB板印有+的那一侧。<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
==== LED2, LED3, LED4 - Red LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 redLEDs.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R13, R14, R15 - 10 Ohm resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10r.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R12 - 1K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R23, R24, R25 - 1.8K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1-8k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These are marked 1K on the PCB, but we are using larger ones to accommodate higher voltages. These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====R1, R7, R11, R21, R22 - 4.7K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4-7k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R16, R17, R18, R19, R20 - 10K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R8, R9, R10 - 100K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====C1, C5, C8 - 10uF capacitor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, C10 - 100uF capacitor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB. <br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Reflow SMT soldering====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3_placed.JPG|200px|thumb]] [[Image:RAMPS1-3 smtSoldered.JPG|thumb]]<br />
If you are doing oven or hot plate method, now is the time apply heat (add links here). If you used a solder iron, you have probably already soldered all these components.<br />
<br />
Make sure to inspect the SMT soldering at this point since it will be harder to rework after the headers are on top.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Top pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 tpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Solder 1 1x6, 6 1x4, and 7 2x3 pin headers on top of the board. The long post should be standing up to take a connector. Solder one leg on each one to tack them into place. Then re-heat the joint and push on the component until it is perfectly situated. Then you'll want to solder the rest of the leads. You will get burnt if you touch the other side of the pin you are soldering.<br />
<br />
If you want to use the extra pin outputs, now is the time to solder on the rest of the headers.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Driver sockets====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DrSockets.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place the female headers for the stepper drivers on top of the board. You can use the 1x8 and 1x6 pin headers to jig them straight. Turn the board over and solder these pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====D1, D2 - Diodes====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DnF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 and D2 diodes]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The band on the diode must be turned the same way as the mark on the board.<br />
<br />
Definitely solder D2 in. D2, F1, and F2 are shown installed here.<br />
<br />
D1 should only be installed if the 5A rail is powered by 12V. It can be omitted and the Arduino will be powered from USB. You will want D1 installed if you add components to print without a PC. To reiterate, D1 MUST be omitted if you are powering the 5A rail by more than 12V, or the power is not absolutely clean, otherwise you may damage your ramps.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
====F1 - MFR500 Fuse====<br />
This is the smaller yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation. When soldering the fuses it is best to use a piece of 3mm filament or something similar to keep the ceramic coating on the pins from blocking proper solder along the through hole.<br />
<br />
Since the fuses are the tallest parts, it is simpler and more convenient to solder them last. From this point on, solder the rest of the RAMPS in order of bottom pins, reset switch, terminals, mosfets and then fuses.<br />
<br />
====F2 - MFR1100 Fuse====<br />
This is the larger yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Q1, Q2, Q3 - Mosfets====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 mosfet.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be orientated as in the picture. The tall heat sink part of the mosfet needs to be turned the same as the mark on the board.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Mosfet Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 6pos.JPG |thumb|Standard RAMPS 1.4 D8-10 Terminal Block]]<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-4 6pos_alt.png |thumb|Alternative Plug/Jack Connectors]]<br />
This must be oriented where the wire holes are turned towards the edge of the board. Solder a pin on each end and make sure the component is flat on the board and solder the middle pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Power Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4pos.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Bottom pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 bpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[image:DSC 0148.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Place these on the bottom of the board with the long post out to plug into the Arduino MEGA. You can plug them into the MEGA to hold them in place while you solder. Do not overheat the pins while in Arduino or you may damage it's connectors.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Reset switch====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 rst.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Inspection====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG|200px|thumb]]<br />
Inspect your work. Clean any solder bridges and suspect solders.<br />
<br />
===Stepper Driver Boards===<br />
#*Jumpers need to be installed under each stepper driver:<br />
<br />
jumper Yes/No step size<br />
1 2 3<br />
no no no full step<br />
yes no no half step<br />
no yes no 1/4 step<br />
yes yes no 1/8 step<br />
yes yes yes 1/16 step<br />
For now the default is 1/16 micro stepping (all jumpers installed under drivers)<br />
<br />
#Cut the pin headers to 8 pins long so that they fit each side of the stepper driver.<br />
#Insert the pin headers into the sockets on RAMPS<br />
#Fit the stepper drivers onto the pin headers and solder. Only heat each pin for a few seconds at time to avoid damage to the socket. <br />
#*Glue the heatsink (if used) to the top of the [[A4988]]/[[A4983]] chip using the provided pad of double-sided adhesive.<br />
<br />
===Opto Endstops===<br />
Opto board 2.1 build instructions can be found [http://reprap.org/wiki/OptoEndstop_2.1#Build_It here on the reprap opto page], and also [http://reprapsource.com/oe-r1 here] for reprapsource.com's instructions.<br />
#* Cut the 26awg 3 conductor cable into 3 length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConnector.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connector on endstop.]]<br />
#* Note: you may want until you've built your machine to cut the cables to the perfect length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConboard.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connection on RAMPS]]<br />
##* crimp and solder a female connector to the ends of each wire. (solder not necessary with proper crimp tools) <br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing.<br />
#* Connect at least the minimum endstops. <br />
{| border="1"<br />
| RAMPS End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|}<br />
{| border="1" <br />
| Endstop End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mechanical Endstops===<br />
[[File:MechSwitches 2Wire.JPG|thumb]]<br />
The recommended firmware will provide a configuration to use mechanical endstops with just two wires. <br />
<br />
Find the area labelled "endstops" in the upper right corner of the board and for each of the X, Y, and Z pairs of pins (label should be below each set) do the following: <br />
# Connect S (top row, labelled to the left) on RAMPS to NC on the switch.<br />
# Connect GND on RAMPS to C on the switch.<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' The latest firmware such as Marlin seems to use NO as the default pin on the switch. Otherwise you may need to invert the endstops in the firmware. You can use M119 to check your endstops status.<br />
<br />
===Put the connectors on the motor wires===<br />
#* solder a female connector to the ends of each wire.<br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing. <br />
#* Shown is the type used for servos in RC projects. See [[Stepper Motors]] for info on motors.<br />
<br />
===Thermistor Wires===<br />
Use a 2 pin 0.1" connector to terminate the thermistor wires.<br />
#* Connect the cable so the 2 wires go to T0<br />
#Connect the 2 heater wires to D10 (E0H on older boards) and the + connection above it.<br />
#* If changing to an unverified firmware it is best to verify heater circuit function with a meter before connecting heater to prevent damage to the extruder.<br />
<br />
===Pololu carriage===<br />
[[image:PololuExample.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This section assumes you are using Pololu, but there are other options. Insert two 1x8 pin headers into the board. If you bought a kit with one 16 pin header, simply cut it so that you have two 1x8. Make sure that the side with the labels has the long ends of the posts, and the side you want to solder is the side with the heat sink. Doing this backwards will cause you not to see the labels and will most likely not fit. Remember to apply a heat-sink to the largest chip on the back.<br />
<br />
=Final Setup=<br />
==Pre-Flight Check==<br />
If you think you may have mistakes you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.<br />
<br />
The trimpot on the stepper drivers controls the current limit. Turn it all the way down (counter clock wise) and back up 25%. Be careful to not force the trimpot, it is delicate. You will need to fine tune the current limit later. Note that it is allways giving the motors that much power, even when not moving, so if your stepper motor drivers are getting hot, you may want to turn it down slightly.<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield#Make_the_cables_up_for_the_opto_endstops Connect the minimum endstops] for X,Y, and Z<br />
<br />
Connect Motors (Do not disconnect or connect motors while powered; if the connection is loose, this will cause the motors to spazz and possibly kill your stepper driver.)<br />
<br />
You may want to use this [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS14_test.zip code] to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares.<br />
<br />
Install firmware (More info below). Firmware flashing can be done without 12V power supply connected.<br />
<br />
==Wiring==<br />
It is relatively simple to wire up the RAMPS. Just add the extruder heating coil wire to D10, the thermistor to the two T0 pins on middle right right, and wire up the steppers and endstops. From left to right, wire all of the stepper motor's wires as red, blue, green, and black or red, green, yellow, blue into the pins next to the Pololus. When you connect the wires to the endstops (if you are using 3 endstops, plug them into the MIN (-) slots), make sure you match the labels. <br />
<br />
[[Image:Rampswire14.svg|500px|]]<br />
<br />
Note that tesla & tonok firmware use d9 and sprinter and johnny/tonok use d10 for the extruder hot end.<br />
<br />
===Warnings===<br />
<br />
<font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard.<br />
<br />
Incorrectly inserting stepper drivers will destroy your electronics and cause a fire risk. Always make sure power and USB is disconnected when removing or adjusting stepper drivers. Always make sure to insert drivers in correct orientation and in the socket correctly.<br />
<br />
The endstop pins are Signal - GND - VCC, instead of the VCC - Sig - GND like the rest of RepRaps boards. Make sure to wire them correctly. This is done to allow squeezing fatter traces on the printable board.</font><br />
<br />
==Connecting Power==<br />
<br />
Connect your 12V power supply to the RAMPS shield. <font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard</font>.<br />
<br />
The bottom pair of connectors marked 5A power the stepper drivers and Extruder heater/fan (D9, D10). The source should be rated a minimum of 5A.<br />
<br />
The pair of connectors above marked 11A power a Heated Bed, or other output (D8). The source should be rated a minimum 11A (if both power rails are connected to the same supply it should have a minimum rating of 16A).<br />
<br />
The barrel connector, on the Arduino MEGA, will NOT power RAMPS and will not provide power to the stepper motors, heated bed, etc.<br />
<br />
The power connector plug may not be obviously labeled, looking at the power connection the positive is on the left and the negative is on the right of the plug.<br />
<br />
==Power Supply==<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 diode (note that D2 is shown at the left, not D1)]]<br />
RAMPS is quite happy with the 12 V line from [[PCPowerSupply]].<br />
Or you can hack up a 12V laptop power supply, or other 12 V "wall wart" power supply. <font color="red"> Be sure that the power can output 5A or greater.</font> Additional 11A may be needed for heated bed support.<br />
<br />
See Connecting power above.<br />
<br />
The 3 pins next to the reset switch are meant to optionally connect to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The PS_ON pin is intended to switch your power supply on and off. Many firmwares support pulling this pin low with M80 command to turn the power supply on, and M81 to turn it off. This behavior is desired for ATX power supplies and can be modified in firmware to support 5V high power supplies like those borrowed from an Xbox.<br />
<br />
Without D1 installed, or when the 12VIN is not connected, the Arduino gets its power from USB. If you want your kit powered without USB connected you need to solder in D1 OR connect VCC to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The VCC pin can be connected to your ATX's 5Vsb to continuously power the Arduino from your ATX power supply. You will want to make sure that D1 is not installed or cut out. The Arduino is not designed to be powered directly on the VCC rail and the VIN pin at the same time.<br />
<br />
The 5V pin in that connector on RAMPS only supplies the 5V to the auxiliary servo connectors. It is designed so that you can jumper it to the VCC pin and use the Arduino's power supply to supply 5V for extra servos if you are only powered from USB or 5V. Since there is not a lot of extra power from the Arduino's power supply you can connect it<br />
directly to your 5V power supply if you have one. You can also leave this pin not connected if you have no plan to add extra servos.<br />
<br />
===Maximum Input Voltage===<br />
====Power Supply without diode====<br />
The 1N4004 diode connects the RAMPS input voltage to the MEGA. If your board does not have this diode soldered in, you can safely input as much as 35V. (The pololus can do up to 35V)<br />
====Power Supply with diode====<br />
If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in, do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not recommended.<br />
<br />
=Firmware and Pin Assignments=<br />
<br />
<font color="red">RAMPS 1.4 uses the same pin definitions as 1.3.</font><br />
<br />
You will need the Arduino software at http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software to upload the firmware to Arduino Mega. Arduino MEGA 2560 Rev3 requires Arduino software version 0023.<br />
<br />
[[Sprinter]] and [[Marlin]] are popular and stable firmwares for RAMPS as of 3/28/2012. [[Pronterface]] is a cross platform printer control program that can be used for testing/printing.<br />
<br />
Working preconfigured sprinter firmware can be downloaded at http://ultimachine.com/sites/default/files/UltiMachineRAMPS1-4Sprinter.zip . Mechanical is in the folder ending with ME, optical endstop firmware is in the folder ending in OE.<br />
<br />
Others (Need pins set in Firmware as below):<br />
<br />
*mechanical endstops (now the default ultimachine.com option) require '''#define OPTO_PULLUPS_INTERNAL 1''' to be added to configuration.h if not there by default.<br />
<br />
Here are the pin definitions for this board.<br />
<pre><br />
// For RAMPS 1.4<br />
#define X_STEP_PIN 54<br />
#define X_DIR_PIN 55<br />
#define X_ENABLE_PIN 38<br />
#define X_MIN_PIN 3<br />
#define X_MAX_PIN 2<br />
<br />
#define Y_STEP_PIN 60<br />
#define Y_DIR_PIN 61<br />
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN 56<br />
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14<br />
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15<br />
<br />
#define Z_STEP_PIN 46<br />
#define Z_DIR_PIN 48<br />
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN 62<br />
#define Z_MIN_PIN 18<br />
#define Z_MAX_PIN 19<br />
<br />
#define E_STEP_PIN 26<br />
#define E_DIR_PIN 28<br />
#define E_ENABLE_PIN 24<br />
<br />
#define SDPOWER -1<br />
#define SDSS 53<br />
#define LED_PIN 13<br />
<br />
#define FAN_PIN 9<br />
<br />
#define PS_ON_PIN 12<br />
#define KILL_PIN -1<br />
<br />
#define HEATER_0_PIN 10<br />
#define HEATER_1_PIN 8<br />
#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
#define TEMP_1_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==Source==<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
| Eagle Files<br />
| These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.)<br />
| [[media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
| Eagle Libraries<br />
| The components used in this board are here. see [[Eagle_Library]]<br />
| [[media:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Bill of Materials==<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! ID<br />
! Description<br />
! Quantity<br />
! Part Number<br />
! Reichelt Order Number<br />
! Digikey Part Number (Description) <br />
|-<br />
| U1<br />
| Arduino Mega<br />
| 1<br />
|2560 or 1280<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| U2,U3,U4,U5<br />
| [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s<br />
| 4<br />
| A fifth one can be used for a 2nd extruder or extra axis<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| C2<br />
| 100nF capacitor (0805)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| C1,C5,C8<br />
| 10uF capacitor (153CLV-0405)(>5V)<br />
| 3<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| C3,C4,C6,C7,C9,C10<br />
| 100uF capacitor (153CLV-0605)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 6<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R1,R7,R11,R21,R22<br />
| 4.7K resistor (0805)(1%)<br />
| 5<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R8,R9,R10<br />
| 100K resistor (0805)<br />
| 8<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R12<br />
| 1K resistor (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R23,R24,R26<br />
| 1.8K resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R16,R17,R18,R19,R20<br />
| 10K resistor (0805)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R13,R14,R15<br />
| 10 ohm resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| Q1,Q2,Q3<br />
| N-channel Mosfet<br />
| 3<br />
| STP55NF06L<br />
| ZXM 64N035 L3<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=497-6742-5-ND 497-6742-5-ND] (MOSFET N-CH 60V 55A TO-220)<br />
|-<br />
| D1,D2<br />
| Diode<br />
| 2<br />
| 1N4004<br />
| 1N 4004<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=1N4004FSCT-ND 1N4004FSCT-ND] (DIODE GEN PURPOSE 400V 1A DO41)<br />
|-<br />
| F1<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (30V, Hold5A, Trip10A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R500<br />
| PFRA 500<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=MF-R500-ND MF-R500-ND] (FUSE PTC RESETTABLE 5A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| F2<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (Hold11A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R1100<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=RGEF1100-ND RGEF1100-ND] (POLYSWITCH RGE SERIES 11.0A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| J2<br />
| D8-D10 Outputs // 6 position screw terminal (min 11A per contact) OR Jack/Plug connector pair<br />
| 1<br />
| 282837-6<br />
| AKL 101-06<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7857-ND WM7857-ND] (CONN TERMINAL BLOCK 6POS 5.08MM) <br/>Alternative: 1x [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020109-H061A01LF/609-4284-ND/2509130 609-4284-ND] & 1x [http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=609-4218-ND&x=0&y=0&cur=USD 609-4218-ND]. [https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--1nJttlNQDs/UNfmaLXKiTI/AAAAAAAADxQ/Z6CSD4V8r6I/s617/20121223_194819.jpg May prevent overtemp events]<br />
|-<br />
| LED1<br />
| Green LED (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|LED2,LED3,LED4<br />
| Red LED (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| S1<br />
| Push button switch<br />
| 1<br />
| B3F-3100 <br />
| TASTER 3305B (should fit footprint also, but button will overhang board edge)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=450-1648-ND 450-1648-ND] (SWITCH TACT RA H=6.35MM)<br />
|-<br />
| X1<br />
| Power jack (Plug and fixed receptacle)(Min 11A per position more is better)<br />
| 1<br />
| MSTBA 2,5 and MSTBT 2,5 (5.04mm spacing 4 connector)<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7847-ND WM7847-ND] (CONN HEADER 4POS 5.08MM R/A TIN) &amp; [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7953-ND WM7953-ND] (CONN TERM BLOCK 4POS 5.08MM R/A)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 3 pin header<br />
| 8<br />
| 961206-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9459-ND 3M9459-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT DUAL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 4 pin header<br />
| 5<br />
| 961104-6404-AR<br />
| SL 1X36G 2,54 (3 of these)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9449-ND 3M9449-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 4POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 pin header<br />
| 2 (? - from http://gala-automation.com/index.php/component/content/article/26-reprap-tutorials/42-ramps-14-bom)<br />
| 961106-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9451-ND 3M9451-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 18 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
| MALE: SL 2X25G 2,54 (2 of them, shortened with a saw or pliers)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7121-ND S7121-ND] (CONN HEADER FMAL 36PS.1" DL GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7039-ND S7039-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 6POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 24 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 2<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7057-ND S7057-ND] (CONN HEADER FMALE 24POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 4<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 0.1" Jumpers<br />
| 15<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=A26242-ND A26242-ND] (SHUNT LP W/HANDLE 2 POS 30AU)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| Circuit Board<br />
|1<br />
|v1.4<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|}<br />
Note * You can use Female Headers which are not the exact size, but they are hard to break/cut so in this case buy some extra! (one wasted header per cut)<br />
<br />
A BOM for sourcing the RAMPS components from Mouser is also available in [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Auf-66FPv0JidHhtRVB0VVplOURwWklrX0tIeXhsS3c&hl=en_US#gid=0 this google spreadsheet]<br />
<br />
Shopping lists for v1.4 [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=d126a71257] .</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_1.4/zh_cn&diff=81940RAMPS 1.4/zh cn2013-02-12T15:05:16Z<p>Sjw107273131: Created page with '{{RAMPS}} {{Languages|RAMPS 1.4}} {{Development |image = RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG |status = Working |name = RAMPS 1.4 |description = RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield Arduino MEGA base…'</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RAMPS}}<br />
<br />
{{Languages|RAMPS 1.4}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = RAMPS 1.4<br />
|description = RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield<br />
Arduino MEGA based modular RepRap electronics.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = johnnyr<br />
|reprap = Pololu Electronics<br />
|categories = [[:Category:RAMPS|RAMPS]][[Category:RAMPS]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
<br />
=目录=<br />
<br />
In RAMPS 1.4, the resistors and capacitors are now surface mount to fit more passive components. This does add another set of steps to assembly, but we stuck with larger sizes to make it fairly painless.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
Image:Arduinomega1-4connectors.png<br />
Image:RAMPS1.4schematic.png<br />
Image:Ramps_v1.4_shield_bothsides.png<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
= 安全提示 =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=安装=<br />
==元件焊接==<br />
==必备工具==<br />
You must have:<br />
Solder iron, solder wire, good tweezers<br />
You really need:<br />
Solder wick, solder sucker, flux pen<br />
Optional methods use:<br />
Solder paste, hot plate or oven <br />
<br />
===模块安装===<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3pasteapplied.JPG|thumb]] <br />
Soldering RAMPS 1.4 includes both surface mount and through hole soldering.<br />
<br />
The surface mount can be done a few ways. Since all the SMT components on this board are large 2 pad parts you can do pin by pin soldering pretty easy with normal soldering equipment. Start by putting a small amount of solder on one pad. If you have flux, coat the soldered pad. Use the tweezers to hold the component down in position and heat the solder to tack the component into place (make sure the entire solder blob flows so you don't get a cold solder). Then solder the other pad. Also popular is using solder paste for pad by pad soldering, Oven Reflow (need link), and [[HotplateReflowTechnique]]<br />
<br />
Solder the SMT components first. Then the PTH on top of the board. Finally solder the pin headers on the bottom.<br />
<br />
==== C2 - 100nF电容====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100nF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
==== LED1 - 绿色LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 GrLED.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
==== LED2, LED3, LED4 - 红色LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 redLEDs.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R13, R14, R15 - 10 Ohm电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10r.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R12 - 1K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R23, R24, R25 - 1.8K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1-8k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These are marked 1K on the PCB, but we are using larger ones to accommodate higher voltages. These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====R1, R7, R11, R21, R22 - 4.7K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4-7k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R16, R17, R18, R19, R20 - 10K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R8, R9, R10 - 100K电阻====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====C1, C5, C8 - 10uF电容====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, C10 - 100uF电容====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB. <br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====回流焊====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3_placed.JPG|200px|thumb]] [[Image:RAMPS1-3 smtSoldered.JPG|thumb]]<br />
If you are doing oven or hot plate method, now is the time apply heat (add links here). If you used a solder iron, you have probably already soldered all these components.<br />
<br />
Make sure to inspect the SMT soldering at this point since it will be harder to rework after the headers are on top.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Top pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 tpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Solder 1 1x6, 6 1x4, and 7 2x3 pin headers on top of the board. The long post should be standing up to take a connector. Solder one leg on each one to tack them into place. Then re-heat the joint and push on the component until it is perfectly situated. Then you'll want to solder the rest of the leads. You will get burnt if you touch the other side of the pin you are soldering.<br />
<br />
If you want to use the extra pin outputs, now is the time to solder on the rest of the headers.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====驱动板插座====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DrSockets.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place the female headers for the stepper drivers on top of the board. You can use the 1x8 and 1x6 pin headers to jig them straight. Turn the board over and solder these pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====D1, D2 - 二极管====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DnF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 and D2 diodes]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The band on the diode must be turned the same way as the mark on the board.<br />
<br />
Definitely solder D2 in. D2, F1, and F2 are shown installed here.<br />
<br />
D1 should only be installed if the 5A rail is powered by 12V. It can be omitted and the Arduino will be powered from USB. You will want D1 installed if you add components to print without a PC. To reiterate, D1 MUST be omitted if you are powering the 5A rail by more than 12V, or the power is not absolutely clean, otherwise you may damage your ramps.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
====F1 - MFR500 保险丝====<br />
This is the smaller yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation. When soldering the fuses it is best to use a piece of 3mm filament or something similar to keep the ceramic coating on the pins from blocking proper solder along the through hole.<br />
<br />
Since the fuses are the tallest parts, it is simpler and more convenient to solder them last. From this point on, solder the rest of the RAMPS in order of bottom pins, reset switch, terminals, mosfets and then fuses.<br />
<br />
====F2 - MFR1100 保险丝====<br />
This is the larger yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Q1, Q2, Q3 - 场效应管====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 mosfet.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be orientated as in the picture. The tall heat sink part of the mosfet needs to be turned the same as the mark on the board.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Mosfet Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 6pos.JPG |thumb|Standard RAMPS 1.4 D8-10 Terminal Block]]<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-4 6pos_alt.png |thumb|Alternative Plug/Jack Connectors]]<br />
This must be oriented where the wire holes are turned towards the edge of the board. Solder a pin on each end and make sure the component is flat on the board and solder the middle pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Power Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4pos.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Bottom pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 bpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[image:DSC 0148.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Place these on the bottom of the board with the long post out to plug into the Arduino MEGA. You can plug them into the MEGA to hold them in place while you solder. Do not overheat the pins while in Arduino or you may damage it's connectors.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====复位开关====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 rst.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====检查====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG|200px|thumb]]<br />
Inspect your work. Clean any solder bridges and suspect solders.<br />
<br />
===步进电机驱动板===<br />
#*Jumpers need to be installed under each stepper driver:<br />
<br />
jumper Yes/No step size<br />
1 2 3<br />
no no no full step<br />
yes no no half step<br />
no yes no 1/4 step<br />
yes yes no 1/8 step<br />
yes yes yes 1/16 step<br />
For now the default is 1/16 micro stepping (all jumpers installed under drivers)<br />
<br />
#Cut the pin headers to 8 pins long so that they fit each side of the stepper driver.<br />
#Insert the pin headers into the sockets on RAMPS<br />
#Fit the stepper drivers onto the pin headers and solder. Only heat each pin for a few seconds at time to avoid damage to the socket. <br />
#*Glue the heatsink (if used) to the top of the [[A4988]]/[[A4983]] chip using the provided pad of double-sided adhesive.<br />
<br />
===光电限位开关===<br />
Opto board 2.1 build instructions can be found [http://reprap.org/wiki/OptoEndstop_2.1#Build_It here on the reprap opto page], and also [http://reprapsource.com/oe-r1 here] for reprapsource.com's instructions.<br />
#* Cut the 26awg 3 conductor cable into 3 length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConnector.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connector on endstop.]]<br />
#* Note: you may want until you've built your machine to cut the cables to the perfect length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConboard.JPG|right|100px|Close up of endstop connection on RAMPS]]<br />
##* crimp and solder a female connector to the ends of each wire. (solder not necessary with proper crimp tools) <br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing.<br />
#* Connect at least the minimum endstops. <br />
{| border="1"<br />
| RAMPS End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|}<br />
{| border="1" <br />
| Endstop End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===机械限位开关===<br />
[[File:MechSwitches 2Wire.JPG|thumb]]<br />
The recommended firmware will provide a configuration to use mechanical endstops with just two wires. <br />
<br />
Find the area labelled "endstops" in the upper right corner of the board and for each of the X, Y, and Z pairs of pins (label should be below each set) do the following: <br />
# Connect S (top row, labelled to the left) on RAMPS to NC on the switch.<br />
# Connect GND on RAMPS to C on the switch.<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' The latest firmware such as Marlin seems to use NO as the default pin on the switch. Otherwise you may need to invert the endstops in the firmware. You can use M119 to check your endstops status.<br />
<br />
===Put the connectors on the motor wires===<br />
#* solder a female connector to the ends of each wire.<br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing. <br />
#* Shown is the type used for servos in RC projects. See [[Stepper Motors]] for info on motors.<br />
<br />
===热敏电阻连线===<br />
Use a 2 pin 0.1" connector to terminate the thermistor wires.<br />
#* Connect the cable so the 2 wires go to T0<br />
#Connect the 2 heater wires to D10 (E0H on older boards) and the + connection above it.<br />
#* If changing to an unverified firmware it is best to verify heater circuit function with a meter before connecting heater to prevent damage to the extruder.<br />
<br />
===Pololu carriage===<br />
[[image:PololuExample.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This section assumes you are using Pololu, but there are other options. Insert two 1x8 pin headers into the board. If you bought a kit with one 16 pin header, simply cut it so that you have two 1x8. Make sure that the side with the labels has the long ends of the posts, and the side you want to solder is the side with the heat sink. Doing this backwards will cause you not to see the labels and will most likely not fit. Remember to apply a heat-sink to the largest chip on the back.<br />
<br />
=最后安装=<br />
==Pre-Flight Check==<br />
If you think you may have mistakes you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.<br />
<br />
The trimpot on the stepper drivers controls the current limit. Turn it all the way down (counter clock wise) and back up 25%. Be careful to not force the trimpot, it is delicate. You will need to fine tune the current limit later. Note that it is allways giving the motors that much power, even when not moving, so if your stepper motor drivers are getting hot, you may want to turn it down slightly.<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield#Make_the_cables_up_for_the_opto_endstops Connect the minimum endstops] for X,Y, and Z<br />
<br />
Connect Motors (Do not disconnect or connect motors while powered; if the connection is loose, this will cause the motors to spazz and possibly kill your stepper driver.)<br />
<br />
You may want to use this [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS14_test.zip code] to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares.<br />
<br />
Install firmware (More info below). Firmware flashing can be done without 12V power supply connected.<br />
<br />
==Wiring==<br />
It is relatively simple to wire up the RAMPS. Just add the extruder heating coil wire to D10, the thermistor to the two T0 pins on middle right right, and wire up the steppers and endstops. From left to right, wire all of the stepper motor's wires as red, blue, green, and black or red, green, yellow, blue into the pins next to the Pololus. When you connect the wires to the endstops (if you are using 3 endstops, plug them into the MIN (-) slots), make sure you match the labels. <br />
<br />
[[Image:Rampswire14.svg|500px|]]<br />
<br />
Note that tesla & tonok firmware use d9 and sprinter and johnny/tonok use d10 for the extruder hot end.<br />
<br />
===警告===<br />
<br />
<font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard.<br />
<br />
Incorrectly inserting stepper drivers will destroy your electronics and cause a fire risk. Always make sure power and USB is disconnected when removing or adjusting stepper drivers. Always make sure to insert drivers in correct orientation and in the socket correctly.<br />
<br />
The endstop pins are Signal - GND - VCC, instead of the VCC - Sig - GND like the rest of RepRaps boards. Make sure to wire them correctly. This is done to allow squeezing fatter traces on the printable board.</font><br />
<br />
==Connecting Power==<br />
<br />
Connect your 12V power supply to the RAMPS shield. <font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard</font>.<br />
<br />
The bottom pair of connectors marked 5A power the stepper drivers and Extruder heater/fan (D9, D10). The source should be rated a minimum of 5A.<br />
<br />
The pair of connectors above marked 11A power a Heated Bed, or other output (D8). The source should be rated a minimum 11A (if both power rails are connected to the same supply it should have a minimum rating of 16A).<br />
<br />
The barrel connector, on the Arduino MEGA, will NOT power RAMPS and will not provide power to the stepper motors, heated bed, etc.<br />
<br />
The power connector plug may not be obviously labeled, looking at the power connection the positive is on the left and the negative is on the right of the plug.<br />
<br />
==供电电源==<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 diode (note that D2 is shown at the left, not D1)]]<br />
RAMPS is quite happy with the 12 V line from [[PCPowerSupply]].<br />
Or you can hack up a 12V laptop power supply, or other 12 V "wall wart" power supply. <font color="red"> Be sure that the power can output 5A or greater.</font> Additional 11A may be needed for heated bed support.<br />
<br />
See Connecting power above.<br />
<br />
The 3 pins next to the reset switch are meant to optionally connect to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The PS_ON pin is intended to switch your power supply on and off. Many firmwares support pulling this pin low with M80 command to turn the power supply on, and M81 to turn it off. This behavior is desired for ATX power supplies and can be modified in firmware to support 5V high power supplies like those borrowed from an Xbox.<br />
<br />
Without D1 installed, or when the 12VIN is not connected, the Arduino gets its power from USB. If you want your kit powered without USB connected you need to solder in D1 OR connect VCC to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The VCC pin can be connected to your ATX's 5Vsb to continuously power the Arduino from your ATX power supply. You will want to make sure that D1 is not installed or cut out. The Arduino is not designed to be powered directly on the VCC rail and the VIN pin at the same time.<br />
<br />
The 5V pin in that connector on RAMPS only supplies the 5V to the auxiliary servo connectors. It is designed so that you can jumper it to the VCC pin and use the Arduino's power supply to supply 5V for extra servos if you are only powered from USB or 5V. Since there is not a lot of extra power from the Arduino's power supply you can connect it<br />
directly to your 5V power supply if you have one. You can also leave this pin not connected if you have no plan to add extra servos.<br />
<br />
===最大输入电压===<br />
====Power Supply without diode====<br />
The 1N4004 diode connects the RAMPS input voltage to the MEGA. If your board does not have this diode soldered in, you can safely input as much as 35V. (The pololus can do up to 35V)<br />
====Power Supply with diode====<br />
If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in, do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not recommended.<br />
<br />
=Firmware and Pin Assignments=<br />
<br />
<font color="red">RAMPS 1.4 uses the same pin definitions as 1.3.</font><br />
<br />
You will need the Arduino software at http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software to upload the firmware to Arduino Mega. Arduino MEGA 2560 Rev3 requires Arduino software version 0023.<br />
<br />
[[Sprinter]] and [[Marlin]] are popular and stable firmwares for RAMPS as of 3/28/2012. [[Pronterface]] is a cross platform printer control program that can be used for testing/printing.<br />
<br />
Working preconfigured sprinter firmware can be downloaded at http://ultimachine.com/sites/default/files/UltiMachineRAMPS1-4Sprinter.zip . Mechanical is in the folder ending with ME, optical endstop firmware is in the folder ending in OE.<br />
<br />
Others (Need pins set in Firmware as below):<br />
<br />
*mechanical endstops (now the default ultimachine.com option) require '''#define OPTO_PULLUPS_INTERNAL 1''' to be added to configuration.h if not there by default.<br />
<br />
Here are the pin definitions for this board.<br />
<pre><br />
// For RAMPS 1.4<br />
#define X_STEP_PIN 54<br />
#define X_DIR_PIN 55<br />
#define X_ENABLE_PIN 38<br />
#define X_MIN_PIN 3<br />
#define X_MAX_PIN 2<br />
<br />
#define Y_STEP_PIN 60<br />
#define Y_DIR_PIN 61<br />
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN 56<br />
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14<br />
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15<br />
<br />
#define Z_STEP_PIN 46<br />
#define Z_DIR_PIN 48<br />
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN 62<br />
#define Z_MIN_PIN 18<br />
#define Z_MAX_PIN 19<br />
<br />
#define E_STEP_PIN 26<br />
#define E_DIR_PIN 28<br />
#define E_ENABLE_PIN 24<br />
<br />
#define SDPOWER -1<br />
#define SDSS 53<br />
#define LED_PIN 13<br />
<br />
#define FAN_PIN 9<br />
<br />
#define PS_ON_PIN 12<br />
#define KILL_PIN -1<br />
<br />
#define HEATER_0_PIN 10<br />
#define HEATER_1_PIN 8<br />
#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
#define TEMP_1_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==源文件==<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
| Eagle Files<br />
| These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.)<br />
| [[media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
| Eagle Libraries<br />
| The components used in this board are here. see [[Eagle_Library]]<br />
| [[media:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Bill of Materials==<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! ID<br />
! Description<br />
! Quantity<br />
! Part Number<br />
! Reichelt Order Number<br />
! Digikey Part Number (Description) <br />
|-<br />
| U1<br />
| Arduino Mega<br />
| 1<br />
|2560 or 1280<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| U2,U3,U4,U5<br />
| [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s<br />
| 4<br />
| A fifth one can be used for a 2nd extruder or extra axis<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| C2<br />
| 100nF capacitor (0805)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| C1,C5,C8<br />
| 10uF capacitor (153CLV-0405)(>5V)<br />
| 3<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| C3,C4,C6,C7,C9,C10<br />
| 100uF capacitor (153CLV-0605)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 6<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R1,R7,R11,R21,R22<br />
| 4.7K resistor (0805)(1%)<br />
| 5<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R8,R9,R10<br />
| 100K resistor (0805)<br />
| 8<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R12<br />
| 1K resistor (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R23,R24,R26<br />
| 1.8K resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R16,R17,R18,R19,R20<br />
| 10K resistor (0805)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| R13,R14,R15<br />
| 10 ohm resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| Q1,Q2,Q3<br />
| N-channel Mosfet<br />
| 3<br />
| STP55NF06L<br />
| ZXM 64N035 L3<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=497-6742-5-ND 497-6742-5-ND] (MOSFET N-CH 60V 55A TO-220)<br />
|-<br />
| D1,D2<br />
| Diode<br />
| 2<br />
| 1N4004<br />
| 1N 4004<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=1N4004FSCT-ND 1N4004FSCT-ND] (DIODE GEN PURPOSE 400V 1A DO41)<br />
|-<br />
| F1<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (30V, Hold5A, Trip10A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R500<br />
| PFRA 500<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=MF-R500-ND MF-R500-ND] (FUSE PTC RESETTABLE 5A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| F2<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (Hold11A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R1100<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=RGEF1100-ND RGEF1100-ND] (POLYSWITCH RGE SERIES 11.0A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| J2<br />
| D8-D10 Outputs // 6 position screw terminal (min 11A per contact) OR Jack/Plug connector pair<br />
| 1<br />
| 282837-6<br />
| AKL 101-06<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7857-ND WM7857-ND] (CONN TERMINAL BLOCK 6POS 5.08MM) <br/>Alternative: 1x [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020109-H061A01LF/609-4284-ND/2509130 609-4284-ND] & 1x [http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=609-4218-ND&x=0&y=0&cur=USD 609-4218-ND]. [https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--1nJttlNQDs/UNfmaLXKiTI/AAAAAAAADxQ/Z6CSD4V8r6I/s617/20121223_194819.jpg May prevent overtemp events]<br />
|-<br />
| LED1<br />
| Green LED (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
|LED2,LED3,LED4<br />
| Red LED (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| S1<br />
| Push button switch<br />
| 1<br />
| B3F-3100 <br />
| TASTER 3305B (should fit footprint also, but button will overhang board edge)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=450-1648-ND 450-1648-ND] (SWITCH TACT RA H=6.35MM)<br />
|-<br />
| X1<br />
| Power jack (Plug and fixed receptacle)(Min 11A per position more is better)<br />
| 1<br />
| MSTBA 2,5 and MSTBT 2,5 (5.04mm spacing 4 connector)<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7847-ND WM7847-ND] (CONN HEADER 4POS 5.08MM R/A TIN) &amp; [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7953-ND WM7953-ND] (CONN TERM BLOCK 4POS 5.08MM R/A)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 3 pin header<br />
| 8<br />
| 961206-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9459-ND 3M9459-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT DUAL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 4 pin header<br />
| 5<br />
| 961104-6404-AR<br />
| SL 1X36G 2,54 (3 of these)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9449-ND 3M9449-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 4POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 pin header<br />
| 2 (? - from http://gala-automation.com/index.php/component/content/article/26-reprap-tutorials/42-ramps-14-bom)<br />
| 961106-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9451-ND 3M9451-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 18 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
| MALE: SL 2X25G 2,54 (2 of them, shortened with a saw or pliers)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7121-ND S7121-ND] (CONN HEADER FMAL 36PS.1" DL GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7039-ND S7039-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 6POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 24 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 2<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7057-ND S7057-ND] (CONN HEADER FMALE 24POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 4<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 0.1" Jumpers<br />
| 15<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=A26242-ND A26242-ND] (SHUNT LP W/HANDLE 2 POS 30AU)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| Circuit Board<br />
|1<br />
|v1.4<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|}<br />
Note * You can use Female Headers which are not the exact size, but they are hard to break/cut so in this case buy some extra! (one wasted header per cut)<br />
<br />
A BOM for sourcing the RAMPS components from Mouser is also available in [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Auf-66FPv0JidHhtRVB0VVplOURwWklrX0tIeXhsS3c&hl=en_US#gid=0 this google spreadsheet]<br />
<br />
Shopping lists for v1.4 [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=d126a71257] .</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=81939Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-12T14:41:55Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 焊接arduino那面的插针===<br />
这实际上是1.5.3版的说明<br />
<br />
我们从背面开始,这边没有任何文字,只有DIP插针。<br/><br />
这些插针供接下来插入arduino板。注意DIP插针的个数要适合arduino板。<br />
<br />
要让PCB上的DIP插针恰好适合arduino的最好办法是先把插针插在arduino的DIP插槽内,然后将带DIP插针的arduino插入PCB版。<br/><br />
这样PCB上焊的DIP插针就完全适合arduino板了。<br/><br />
把PCB板正面露出的插针引脚焊上,然后再取下arduino板。<br />
<br />
拿下arduino板时要小心,要左右交替着向上抬起PCB。如果你单从一侧用力,会把插针弄弯,见下图:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
要像这样做:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
接下来放置印刷层的元件(带有白字的那面),最好从最小(或最大)的元件开始焊接。<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=250px><br />
File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# 确信你正在运行[http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker固件]。<br />
# 加热热电偶,检测温度为0度以下。说明你把热电偶的连线接反了。<br />
# 温度值不对:检查那三个电阻移除没(R23、R21、R4)。<br />
# 温度值是499.9度:检查连线是否正确,接线是否牢固。<br />
# 温度值波动太大?检查C1、C9、C10安装没有。<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# 用自己的固件?Ultimaker热电偶模块中使用的AD597与AD595完全兼容。确保AD595_THERMOCOUPLE被定义了,关闭对热敏电阻的测量。<br />
# 如果你调换了黑线与信号线,LED灯可能也亮,但是这并不表明你连线正确。错误的接线可能会损坏你的热电偶模块。<br />
# 热电偶一直显示室内温度,当用打火机加热时也不改变:AD597芯片当前处于自测模式。如果热电偶的+ -输入端电阻很低,它不会显示热电偶温度,而是显示芯片本身的温度。把温热的手指按在芯片上检查,如果值迅速改变,说明确实是这个原因。用一个接线端延长热电偶的接线,或是在接线端加焊个电阻。<br />
<br />
=== LCD面板 ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]<br />
带按键LCD控制板的配置[http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (感谢 Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
用来实现Hitachi并行接口LCD控制器的扩展,目前的固件使用两行16个字符来显示。<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Erik开发的一款SD-CARD扩展板,该板也有一个LED灯,并且引出了全部有用的引脚。<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap也开发了一款micro SD-card扩展板,他的板子更小。该板有一个LED灯,但是没有引出全部引脚。<br />
<br />
他博客上的文档:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap开发了一个蓝牙模块用来实现无线打印。 <br />
<br />
访问他博客上的文档:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80662Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T12:00:04Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=250px><br />
File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# 确信你正在运行[http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker固件]。<br />
# 加热热电偶,检测温度为0度以下。说明你把热电偶的连线接反了。<br />
# 温度值不对:检查那三个电阻移除没(R23、R21、R4)。<br />
# 温度值是499.9度:检查连线是否正确,接线是否牢固。<br />
# 温度值波动太大?检查C1、C9、C10安装没有。<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# 用自己的固件?Ultimaker热电偶模块中使用的AD597与AD595完全兼容。确保AD595_THERMOCOUPLE被定义了,关闭对热敏电阻的测量。<br />
# 如果你调换了黑线与信号线,LED灯可能也亮,但是这并不表明你连线正确。错误的接线可能会损坏你的热电偶模块。<br />
# 热电偶一直显示室内温度,当用打火机加热时也不改变:AD597芯片当前处于自测模式。如果热电偶的+ -输入端电阻很低,它不会显示热电偶温度,而是显示芯片本身的温度。把温热的手指按在芯片上检查,如果值迅速改变,说明确实是这个原因。用一个接线端延长热电偶的接线,或是在接线端加焊个电阻。<br />
<br />
=== LCD面板 ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]<br />
带按键LCD控制板的配置[http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (感谢 Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
用来实现Hitachi并行接口LCD控制器的扩展,目前的固件使用两行16个字符来显示。<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Erik开发的一款SD-CARD扩展板,该板也有一个LED灯,并且引出了全部有用的引脚。<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap也开发了一款micro SD-card扩展板,他的板子更小。该板有一个LED灯,但是没有引出全部引脚。<br />
<br />
他博客上的文档:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap开发了一个蓝牙模块用来实现无线打印。 <br />
<br />
访问他博客上的文档:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80657Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T11:56:08Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* LCD */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=250px><br />
File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# 确信你正在运行[http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker固件]。<br />
# 加热热电偶,检测温度为0度以下。说明你把热电偶的连线接反了。<br />
# 温度值不对:检查那三个电阻移除没(R23、R21、R4)。<br />
# 温度值是499.9度:检查连线是否正确,接线是否牢固。<br />
# 温度值波动太大?检查C1、C9、C10安装没有。<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# 用自己的固件?Ultimaker热电偶模块中使用的AD597与AD595完全兼容。确保AD595_THERMOCOUPLE被定义了,关闭对热敏电阻的测量。<br />
# 如果你调换了黑线与信号线,LED灯可能也亮,但是这并不表明你连线正确。错误的接线可能会损坏你的热电偶模块。<br />
# 热电偶一直显示室内温度,当用打火机加热时也不改变:AD597芯片当前处于自测模式。如果热电偶的+ -输入端电阻很低,它不会显示热电偶温度,而是显示芯片本身的温度。把温热的手指按在芯片上检查,如果值迅速改变,说明确实是这个原因。用一个接线端延长热电偶的接线,或是在接线端加焊个电阻。<br />
<br />
=== LCD面板 ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]<br />
带按键LCD控制板的配置[http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (感谢 Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
用来实现Hitachi并行接口LCD控制器的扩展,目前的固件使用两行16个字符来显示。<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap开发了一个蓝牙模块用来实现无线打印。 <br />
<br />
访问他博客上的文档:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80653Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T11:51:33Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* LCD */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=250px><br />
File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# 确信你正在运行[http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker固件]。<br />
# 加热热电偶,检测温度为0度以下。说明你把热电偶的连线接反了。<br />
# 温度值不对:检查那三个电阻移除没(R23、R21、R4)。<br />
# 温度值是499.9度:检查连线是否正确,接线是否牢固。<br />
# 温度值波动太大?检查C1、C9、C10安装没有。<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# 用自己的固件?Ultimaker热电偶模块中使用的AD597与AD595完全兼容。确保AD595_THERMOCOUPLE被定义了,关闭对热敏电阻的测量。<br />
# 如果你调换了黑线与信号线,LED灯可能也亮,但是这并不表明你连线正确。错误的接线可能会损坏你的热电偶模块。<br />
# 热电偶一直显示室内温度,当用打火机加热时也不改变:AD597芯片当前处于自测模式。如果热电偶的+ -输入端电阻很低,它不会显示热电偶温度,而是显示芯片本身的温度。把温热的手指按在芯片上检查,如果值迅速改变,说明确实是这个原因。用一个接线端延长热电偶的接线,或是在接线端加焊个电阻。<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]<br />
这里阐述了带按键的LCD控制板[http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
这是一个基于Hitachi并行接口LCD控制器的扩展板,目前的固件使用两行16个字符来显示。<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap开发了一个蓝牙模块用来实现无线打印。 <br />
<br />
访问他博客上的文档:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80647Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T11:42:24Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 无线/蓝牙 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=250px><br />
File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# 确信你正在运行[http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker固件]。<br />
# 加热热电偶,检测温度为0度以下。说明你把热电偶的连线接反了。<br />
# 温度值不对:检查那三个电阻移除没(R23、R21、R4)。<br />
# 温度值是499.9度:检查连线是否正确,接线是否牢固。<br />
# 温度值波动太大?检查C1、C9、C10安装没有。<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# 用自己的固件?Ultimaker热电偶模块中使用的AD597与AD595完全兼容。确保AD595_THERMOCOUPLE被定义了,关闭对热敏电阻的测量。<br />
# 如果你调换了黑线与信号线,LED灯可能也亮,但是这并不表明你连线正确。错误的接线可能会损坏你的热电偶模块。<br />
# 热电偶一直显示室内温度,当用打火机加热时也不改变:AD597芯片当前处于自测模式。如果热电偶的+ -输入端电阻很低,它不会显示热电偶温度,而是显示芯片本身的温度。把温热的手指按在芯片上检查,如果值迅速改变,说明确实是这个原因。用一个接线端延长热电偶的接线,或是在接线端加焊个电阻。<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap开发了一个蓝牙模块用来实现无线打印。 <br />
<br />
访问他博客上的文档:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80646Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T11:40:27Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 不工作怎么办 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=250px><br />
File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# 确信你正在运行[http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker固件]。<br />
# 加热热电偶,检测温度为0度以下。说明你把热电偶的连线接反了。<br />
# 温度值不对:检查那三个电阻移除没(R23、R21、R4)。<br />
# 温度值是499.9度:检查连线是否正确,接线是否牢固。<br />
# 温度值波动太大?检查C1、C9、C10安装没有。<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# 用自己的固件?Ultimaker热电偶模块中使用的AD597与AD595完全兼容。确保AD595_THERMOCOUPLE被定义了,关闭对热敏电阻的测量。<br />
# 如果你调换了黑线与信号线,LED灯可能也亮,但是这并不表明你连线正确。错误的接线可能会损坏你的热电偶模块。<br />
# 热电偶一直显示室内温度,当用打火机加热时也不改变:AD597芯片当前处于自测模式。如果热电偶的+ -输入端电阻很低,它不会显示热电偶温度,而是显示芯片本身的温度。把温热的手指按在芯片上检查,如果值迅速改变,说明确实是这个原因。用一个接线端延长热电偶的接线,或是在接线端加焊个电阻。<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80629Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T09:48:54Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 无线/蓝牙 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=250px><br />
File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80627Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T09:47:18Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=250px><br />
File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|thumb]]<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80626Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T09:45:34Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* LCD */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=250px><br />
File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80624Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T09:44:06Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 设计样例 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=250px><br />
File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80617Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T09:31:49Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
Image:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80615Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T09:30:09Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
Image:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|thumb|这里是R23、R21、R4的所在位置]]<br />
注意:如果想用热电偶来代替热敏电阻,就不要安装R23电阻,这很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80614Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T09:23:20Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 设计样例 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG<br />
Image:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png<br />
</gallery><br />
图片来自: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
文件下载:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
注意:不安装电阻R23很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。因为一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80613Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T09:20:00Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 拓展模块 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== Ultimaker TC 热电偶模块 ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
图片: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
文件:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
注意:不安装电阻R23很重要。'''只有用热敏电阻测温度时才用R23电阻!'''如果已经焊上了,就想办法把它摘掉。因为一旦你用热电偶,就不可能在用热敏电阻了。同样,如果你把另外两个输入端(Tem2或Temp3)也换成热电偶了,就把相应的电阻R21或R4也摘除(就在R23的旁边)。<br />
<br />
约定,第一个挤出头用Temp1.假如你有两个挤出头,第二个就是Temp2.热床用Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== 修改 ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80612Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T09:06:46Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 Ultimaker TC ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80609Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T09:05:55Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 热电偶传感器模块 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 Ultimaker TC ===<br />
DIY的3D打印机玩的多了,你就会发现挤出头温度测量精度直接影响打印效果。热电偶比热敏电阻更稳定、更精确,但是需要更高的成本。你需要一个特别的芯片来放大测量到的信号,Ultimaker TC小板上采用了这种芯片(AD597)。<br />
==== 在v1.5.4上增加该模块 ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80606Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T08:56:24Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle与BOM文件下载: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80605Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T08:55:23Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80604Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T08:53:55Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle <br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80603Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T08:49:37Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 新版特色 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) com ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80602Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T08:48:11Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* 需要的工具 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* 烙铁<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* 小锯条<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80601Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T08:40:18Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|url = http://wiki.ultimaker.org<br />
}} <br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80600Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T08:35:54Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能买到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80599Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T08:34:45Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
}} <br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能够得到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
[[File:UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG|500px]]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80598Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T08:28:02Z<p>Sjw107273131: /* V1.5.6 电路板 */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|external_link = [https://shop.ultimaker.com/ Buy it here!]<br />
|image = ...<br />
}} <br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==v1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
警告:适用于v1.5.6的[[Ultimaker]]PCB板,不适合[[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|更早的版本]]。另外,由于用的很少,所以像v1.5.5这个中间版本没有发布。<br />
<br />
该PCB板与包括[[RAMPS]]在内的其他[[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]]类似,但它支持5个步进电机(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可用作其他功能)。你也可以按照自己的需要,多增加些步进电机驱动板。它的运行电压在12V以上,可以在一个MOSFET管输出90W的功率,使步进电机在更大的转矩、更高的转速。该板也用在Protospace的Mantis-30雕刻机,以及各种各样的Mendel 3D打印机上。<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能够得到? ===<br />
这里卖 [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
[[File:UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG|500px]]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接.<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步长<br />
* 三个55Amp MOSFET管(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM输出口<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口<br />
* 实验性的安装了些伺服输出口。由于这些伺服输出头的I/O口没有PWM功能,所以需要用中断或是软件来生成。<br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB&diff=80594Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB2013-02-01T07:59:12Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|external_link = [https://shop.ultimaker.com/ Buy it here!]<br />
|image = ...<br />
}} <br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==Version 1.5.6 of the electronics==<br />
<br />
Warning: this is for version 1.5.6 of the [[Ultimaker]] PCB. If you have a [[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|older version]] of this board, this guide does NOT apply. The 1.5.5 version of the PCB was never produced, so an intermediate version isn't released because of its limited usefulness.<br />
<br />
This is a board that's very similar to other [[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]] implementations, including [[RAMPS]], but it can support up to 5 steppers (three for X, Y, Z, one for an extruder and one for any other function). You can add as many stepper driver carriers as you need. It is designed to run at higher voltages than 12 Volts, This allows you to put 90 Watts out of one MOSFET and run your stepper motors with more torque and higher maximum speeds. This board is also used on the Mantis-30 milling machine from Protospace and on various Mendel's that people have built.<br />
<br />
=== Where to get it? ===<br />
It's sold in the [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
[[File:UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG|500px]]<br />
===Specifications===<br />
* [[Arduino Mega]] Shield<br />
* Plug in all motors with simple 4-way JST connectors.<br />
* Made for [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver].<br />
* Compatible with [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s.<br />
* Controls up to 5 stepper motors (3 for the X, Y and Z axis one for an extruder (the "E axis"), optionally you can add another axis by adding a Pololu stepper driver.<br />
* Configurable step sizes by placing jumpers<br />
* 3x 55 Amp MOSFETs outputs (with LED indicators. Actual current capability limited by PCB and connectors)<br />
* All pins are broken out for maximum extensibility<br />
* Runs from 15V to 19V.<br />
* Three thermocouple inputs, or thermistor inputs. The 100K thermistor is recommended.<br />
* Has a IDC header for adding an LCD panel ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* Has a header for adding an SD card module.<br />
* A toggle-switch for powering up/down the board<br />
* Easier to wire up thermocouples<br />
* Includes a 12V regulator for an (always on) fan to cool the electronics.<br />
* A PWM output with power for LED arrays and other lighting<br />
* LCD backlight dimming can now be software controlled<br />
* A serial I/O header for bluetooth and ethernet add-ons.<br />
* Servo outputs for experimental setups. They need to be interrupt or software driven as the pins routed to the servo header I/O do not have PWM.<br />
<br />
New features and improvements of previous version:<br />
* Compatible with UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
Marlin firmware compatibility is unaffected by this updated PCB.<br />
<br />
'''Please provide your comments for further improvements ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===The tools you need===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* solder<br/><br />
* wire-snip pliers<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===Step 1 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== Add-ons ==<br />
=== Thermocouple sensor board ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== Checklist / What to do if it doesn't work ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== Prototype / Design ====<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== Wireless/Bluetooth ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* Please let us know if you find errors!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB&diff=80593Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB2013-02-01T07:58:50Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|external_link = [https://shop.ultimaker.com/ Buy it here!]<br />
|image = ...<br />
}} <br />
<br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==Version 1.5.6 of the electronics==<br />
<br />
Warning: this is for version 1.5.6 of the [[Ultimaker]] PCB. If you have a [[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|older version]] of this board, this guide does NOT apply. The 1.5.5 version of the PCB was never produced, so an intermediate version isn't released because of its limited usefulness.<br />
<br />
This is a board that's very similar to other [[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]] implementations, including [[RAMPS]], but it can support up to 5 steppers (three for X, Y, Z, one for an extruder and one for any other function). You can add as many stepper driver carriers as you need. It is designed to run at higher voltages than 12 Volts, This allows you to put 90 Watts out of one MOSFET and run your stepper motors with more torque and higher maximum speeds. This board is also used on the Mantis-30 milling machine from Protospace and on various Mendel's that people have built.<br />
<br />
=== Where to get it? ===<br />
It's sold in the [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
[[File:UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG|500px]]<br />
===Specifications===<br />
* [[Arduino Mega]] Shield<br />
* Plug in all motors with simple 4-way JST connectors.<br />
* Made for [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver].<br />
* Compatible with [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s.<br />
* Controls up to 5 stepper motors (3 for the X, Y and Z axis one for an extruder (the "E axis"), optionally you can add another axis by adding a Pololu stepper driver.<br />
* Configurable step sizes by placing jumpers<br />
* 3x 55 Amp MOSFETs outputs (with LED indicators. Actual current capability limited by PCB and connectors)<br />
* All pins are broken out for maximum extensibility<br />
* Runs from 15V to 19V.<br />
* Three thermocouple inputs, or thermistor inputs. The 100K thermistor is recommended.<br />
* Has a IDC header for adding an LCD panel ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* Has a header for adding an SD card module.<br />
* A toggle-switch for powering up/down the board<br />
* Easier to wire up thermocouples<br />
* Includes a 12V regulator for an (always on) fan to cool the electronics.<br />
* A PWM output with power for LED arrays and other lighting<br />
* LCD backlight dimming can now be software controlled<br />
* A serial I/O header for bluetooth and ethernet add-ons.<br />
* Servo outputs for experimental setups. They need to be interrupt or software driven as the pins routed to the servo header I/O do not have PWM.<br />
<br />
New features and improvements of previous version:<br />
* Compatible with UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
Marlin firmware compatibility is unaffected by this updated PCB.<br />
<br />
'''Please provide your comments for further improvements ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===The tools you need===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* solder<br/><br />
* wire-snip pliers<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===Step 1 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== Add-ons ==<br />
=== Thermocouple sensor board ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== Checklist / What to do if it doesn't work ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== Prototype / Design ====<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== Wireless/Bluetooth ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* Please let us know if you find errors!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB/zh_cn&diff=80591Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB/zh cn2013-02-01T07:58:20Z<p>Sjw107273131: Created page with '{{UltimakerPCB}} {{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}} {{Development |name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB |description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield |license = [[GPL|GPLv3…'</p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|external_link = [https://shop.ultimaker.com/ Buy it here!]<br />
|image = ...<br />
}} <br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
__TOC__<br />
==V1.5.6 电路板==<br />
<br />
Warning: this is for version 1.5.6 of the [[Ultimaker]] PCB. If you have a [[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|older version]] of this board, this guide does NOT apply. The 1.5.5 version of the PCB was never produced, so an intermediate version isn't released because of its limited usefulness.<br />
<br />
This is a board that's very similar to other [[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]] implementations, including [[RAMPS]], but it can support up to 5 steppers (three for X, Y, Z, one for an extruder and one for any other function). You can add as many stepper driver carriers as you need. It is designed to run at higher voltages than 12 Volts, This allows you to put 90 Watts out of one MOSFET and run your stepper motors with more torque and higher maximum speeds. This board is also used on the Mantis-30 milling machine from Protospace and on various Mendel's that people have built.<br />
<br />
=== 哪里能够得到? ===<br />
It's sold in the [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
[[File:UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG|500px]]<br />
===特色===<br />
* 基于[[Arduino Mega]]<br />
* Plug in all motors with simple 4-way JST connectors.<br />
* 电机采用四路JST插头连接<br />
* Made for [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver].<br />
* 适合[https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver]。<br />
* Compatible with [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s.<br />
* 兼容[[Pololu stepper driver board]]s。<br />
* Controls up to 5 stepper motors (3 for the X, Y and Z axis one for an extruder (the "E axis"), optionally you can add another axis by adding a Pololu stepper driver.<br />
* 控制电机增至5个(X,Y,Z轴3个,挤出机1个,另1个可选,添加一个步进电子驱动就可使用)<br />
* Configurable step sizes by placing jumpers<br />
* 改变跳线可以配置步进大小<br />
* 3x 55 Amp MOSFETs outputs (with LED indicators. Actual current capability limited by PCB and connectors)<br />
* 三个55 Amp MOSFETs输出(带有LED指示灯。实际输出能力受PCB板和接头限制)<br />
* All pins are broken out for maximum extensibility<br />
* 所有的引脚都被引出,用于今后的扩展<br />
* Runs from 15V to 19V.<br />
* 15V到19V的工作电压<br />
* Three thermocouple inputs, or thermistor inputs. The 100K thermistor is recommended.<br />
* 三路热电偶(或热敏电阻)输入。推荐100K的热敏电阻。<br />
* Has a IDC header for adding an LCD panel ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* 一个外接LCD面板的IDC插头([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* Has a header for adding an SD card module.<br />
* 一个外接SD卡模块的插头。<br />
* A toggle-switch for powering up/down the board<br />
* 一个用于开关板子的拨动开关<br />
* Easier to wire up thermocouples<br />
* 易于热电偶的接线<br />
* Includes a 12V regulator for an (always on) fan to cool the electronics.<br />
* 有一个12V的稳压芯片,用来给风扇供电。<br />
* A PWM output with power for LED arrays and other lighting<br />
* 用于LED或其他照明设备的PWM<br />
* LCD backlight dimming can now be software controlled<br />
* LCD背景灯可以由软件调整<br />
* A serial I/O header for bluetooth and ethernet add-ons.<br />
* 一些用于蓝牙模块和以太网模块的IO口。<br />
* Servo outputs for experimental setups. They need to be interrupt or software driven as the pins routed to the servo header I/O do not have PWM.<br />
* <br />
===新版特色===<br />
* 兼容UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
设计PCB后,Marlin固件的兼容性不受影响。<br />
<br />
'''感谢提供改进意见 ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===需要的工具===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* 焊锡<br/><br />
* 剪线钳<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===第一步 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== 拓展模块 ==<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== 不工作怎么办 ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== 设计样例 ====<br />
=== 热电偶传感器模块 ===<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== 无线/蓝牙 ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* 发现错误请及时告知我们!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB&diff=80586Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB2013-02-01T07:56:30Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|external_link = [https://shop.ultimaker.com/ Buy it here!]<br />
|image = ...<br />
}} <br />
<br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
<br />
==Version 1.5.6 of the electronics==<br />
<br />
Warning: this is for version 1.5.6 of the [[Ultimaker]] PCB. If you have a [[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|older version]] of this board, this guide does NOT apply. The 1.5.5 version of the PCB was never produced, so an intermediate version isn't released because of its limited usefulness.<br />
<br />
This is a board that's very similar to other [[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]] implementations, including [[RAMPS]], but it can support up to 5 steppers (three for X, Y, Z, one for an extruder and one for any other function). You can add as many stepper driver carriers as you need. It is designed to run at higher voltages than 12 Volts, This allows you to put 90 Watts out of one MOSFET and run your stepper motors with more torque and higher maximum speeds. This board is also used on the Mantis-30 milling machine from Protospace and on various Mendel's that people have built.<br />
<br />
=== Where to get it? ===<br />
It's sold in the [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
[[File:UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG|500px]]<br />
===Specifications===<br />
* [[Arduino Mega]] Shield<br />
* Plug in all motors with simple 4-way JST connectors.<br />
* Made for [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver].<br />
* Compatible with [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s.<br />
* Controls up to 5 stepper motors (3 for the X, Y and Z axis one for an extruder (the "E axis"), optionally you can add another axis by adding a Pololu stepper driver.<br />
* Configurable step sizes by placing jumpers<br />
* 3x 55 Amp MOSFETs outputs (with LED indicators. Actual current capability limited by PCB and connectors)<br />
* All pins are broken out for maximum extensibility<br />
* Runs from 15V to 19V.<br />
* Three thermocouple inputs, or thermistor inputs. The 100K thermistor is recommended.<br />
* Has a IDC header for adding an LCD panel ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* Has a header for adding an SD card module.<br />
* A toggle-switch for powering up/down the board<br />
* Easier to wire up thermocouples<br />
* Includes a 12V regulator for an (always on) fan to cool the electronics.<br />
* A PWM output with power for LED arrays and other lighting<br />
* LCD backlight dimming can now be software controlled<br />
* A serial I/O header for bluetooth and ethernet add-ons.<br />
* Servo outputs for experimental setups. They need to be interrupt or software driven as the pins routed to the servo header I/O do not have PWM.<br />
<br />
New features and improvements of previous version:<br />
* Compatible with UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
Marlin firmware compatibility is unaffected by this updated PCB.<br />
<br />
'''Please provide your comments for further improvements ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===The tools you need===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* solder<br/><br />
* wire-snip pliers<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===Step 1 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== Add-ons ==<br />
=== Thermocouple sensor board ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== Checklist / What to do if it doesn't work ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== Prototype / Design ====<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== Wireless/Bluetooth ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* Please let us know if you find errors!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB&diff=80584Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB2013-02-01T07:49:36Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|external_link = [https://shop.ultimaker.com/ Buy it here!]<br />
|image = ...<br />
}} <br />
<br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
<br />
==Version 1.5.6 of the electronics==<br />
<br />
Warning: this is for version 1.5.6 of the [[Ultimaker]] PCB. If you have a [[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|older version]] of this board, this guide does NOT apply. The 1.5.5 version of the PCB was never produced, so an intermediate version isn't released because of its limited usefulness.<br />
<br />
This is a board that's very similar to other [[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]] implementations, including [[RAMPS]], but it can support up to 5 steppers (three for X, Y, Z, one for an extruder and one for any other function). You can add as many stepper driver carriers as you need. It is designed to run at higher voltages than 12 Volts, This allows you to put 90 Watts out of one MOSFET and run your stepper motors with more torque and higher maximum speeds. This board is also used on the Mantis-30 milling machine from Protospace and on various Mendel's that people have built.<br />
<br />
=== Where to get it? ===<br />
It's sold in the [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
[[File:UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG|500px]]<br />
===Specifications===<br />
* [[Arduino Mega]] Shield<br />
* Plug in all motors with simple 4-way JST connectors.<br />
* Made for [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver].<br />
* Compatible with [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s.<br />
* Controls up to 5 stepper motors (3 for the X, Y and Z axis one for an extruder (the "E axis"), optionally you can add another axis by adding a Pololu stepper driver.<br />
* Configurable step sizes by placing jumpers<br />
* 3x 55 Amp MOSFETs outputs (with LED indicators. Actual current capability limited by PCB and connectors)<br />
* All pins are broken out for maximum extensibility<br />
* Runs from 15V to 19V.<br />
* Three thermocouple inputs, or thermistor inputs. The 100K thermistor is recommended.<br />
* Has a IDC header for adding an LCD panel ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* Has a header for adding an SD card module.<br />
* A toggle-switch for powering up/down the board<br />
* Easier to wire up thermocouples<br />
* Includes a 12V regulator for an (always on) fan to cool the electronics.<br />
* A PWM output with power for LED arrays and other lighting<br />
* LCD backlight dimming can now be software controlled<br />
* A serial I/O header for bluetooth and ethernet add-ons.<br />
* Servo outputs for experimental setups. They need to be interrupt or software driven as the pins routed to the servo header I/O do not have PWM.<br />
<br />
New features and improvements of previous version:<br />
* Compatible with UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
Marlin firmware compatibility is unaffected by this updated PCB.<br />
<br />
'''Please provide your comments for further improvements ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===The tools you need===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* solder<br/><br />
* wire-snip pliers<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===Step 1 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== Add-ons ==<br />
=== Thermocouple sensor board ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== Checklist / What to do if it doesn't work ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== Prototype / Design ====<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== Wireless/Bluetooth ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* Please let us know if you find errors!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB&diff=80553Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB2013-02-01T02:29:17Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|RAMPS}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|external_link = [https://shop.ultimaker.com/ Buy it here!]<br />
|image = ...<br />
}} <br />
<br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
<br />
==Version 1.5.6 of the electronics==<br />
<br />
Warning: this is for version 1.5.6 of the [[Ultimaker]] PCB. If you have a [[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|older version]] of this board, this guide does NOT apply. The 1.5.5 version of the PCB was never produced, so an intermediate version isn't released because of its limited usefulness.<br />
<br />
This is a board that's very similar to other [[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]] implementations, including [[RAMPS]], but it can support up to 5 steppers (three for X, Y, Z, one for an extruder and one for any other function). You can add as many stepper driver carriers as you need. It is designed to run at higher voltages than 12 Volts, This allows you to put 90 Watts out of one MOSFET and run your stepper motors with more torque and higher maximum speeds. This board is also used on the Mantis-30 milling machine from Protospace and on various Mendel's that people have built.<br />
<br />
=== Where to get it? ===<br />
It's sold in the [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
[[File:UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG|500px]]<br />
===Specifications===<br />
* [[Arduino Mega]] Shield<br />
* Plug in all motors with simple 4-way JST connectors.<br />
* Made for [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver].<br />
* Compatible with [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s.<br />
* Controls up to 5 stepper motors (3 for the X, Y and Z axis one for an extruder (the "E axis"), optionally you can add another axis by adding a Pololu stepper driver.<br />
* Configurable step sizes by placing jumpers<br />
* 3x 55 Amp MOSFETs outputs (with LED indicators. Actual current capability limited by PCB and connectors)<br />
* All pins are broken out for maximum extensibility<br />
* Runs from 15V to 19V.<br />
* Three thermocouple inputs, or thermistor inputs. The 100K thermistor is recommended.<br />
* Has a IDC header for adding an LCD panel ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* Has a header for adding an SD card module.<br />
* A toggle-switch for powering up/down the board<br />
* Easier to wire up thermocouples<br />
* Includes a 12V regulator for an (always on) fan to cool the electronics.<br />
* A PWM output with power for LED arrays and other lighting<br />
* LCD backlight dimming can now be software controlled<br />
* A serial I/O header for bluetooth and ethernet add-ons.<br />
* Servo outputs for experimental setups. They need to be interrupt or software driven as the pins routed to the servo header I/O do not have PWM.<br />
<br />
New features and improvements of previous version:<br />
* Compatible with UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
Marlin firmware compatibility is unaffected by this updated PCB.<br />
<br />
'''Please provide your comments for further improvements ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===The tools you need===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* solder<br/><br />
* wire-snip pliers<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===Step 1 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== Add-ons ==<br />
=== Thermocouple sensor board ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== Checklist / What to do if it doesn't work ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== Prototype / Design ====<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== Wireless/Bluetooth ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* Please let us know if you find errors!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB&diff=80552Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB2013-02-01T02:26:52Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|RAMPS}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|external_link = [[Buy it here!:https://shop.ultimaker.com/]]<br />
|image = ...<br />
}} <br />
<br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
<br />
==Version 1.5.6 of the electronics==<br />
<br />
Warning: this is for version 1.5.6 of the [[Ultimaker]] PCB. If you have a [[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|older version]] of this board, this guide does NOT apply. The 1.5.5 version of the PCB was never produced, so an intermediate version isn't released because of its limited usefulness.<br />
<br />
This is a board that's very similar to other [[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]] implementations, including [[RAMPS]], but it can support up to 5 steppers (three for X, Y, Z, one for an extruder and one for any other function). You can add as many stepper driver carriers as you need. It is designed to run at higher voltages than 12 Volts, This allows you to put 90 Watts out of one MOSFET and run your stepper motors with more torque and higher maximum speeds. This board is also used on the Mantis-30 milling machine from Protospace and on various Mendel's that people have built.<br />
<br />
=== Where to get it? ===<br />
It's sold in the [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
[[File:UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG|500px]]<br />
===Specifications===<br />
* [[Arduino Mega]] Shield<br />
* Plug in all motors with simple 4-way JST connectors.<br />
* Made for [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver].<br />
* Compatible with [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s.<br />
* Controls up to 5 stepper motors (3 for the X, Y and Z axis one for an extruder (the "E axis"), optionally you can add another axis by adding a Pololu stepper driver.<br />
* Configurable step sizes by placing jumpers<br />
* 3x 55 Amp MOSFETs outputs (with LED indicators. Actual current capability limited by PCB and connectors)<br />
* All pins are broken out for maximum extensibility<br />
* Runs from 15V to 19V.<br />
* Three thermocouple inputs, or thermistor inputs. The 100K thermistor is recommended.<br />
* Has a IDC header for adding an LCD panel ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* Has a header for adding an SD card module.<br />
* A toggle-switch for powering up/down the board<br />
* Easier to wire up thermocouples<br />
* Includes a 12V regulator for an (always on) fan to cool the electronics.<br />
* A PWM output with power for LED arrays and other lighting<br />
* LCD backlight dimming can now be software controlled<br />
* A serial I/O header for bluetooth and ethernet add-ons.<br />
* Servo outputs for experimental setups. They need to be interrupt or software driven as the pins routed to the servo header I/O do not have PWM.<br />
<br />
New features and improvements of previous version:<br />
* Compatible with UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
Marlin firmware compatibility is unaffected by this updated PCB.<br />
<br />
'''Please provide your comments for further improvements ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===The tools you need===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* solder<br/><br />
* wire-snip pliers<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===Step 1 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== Add-ons ==<br />
=== Thermocouple sensor board ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== Checklist / What to do if it doesn't work ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== Prototype / Design ====<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== Wireless/Bluetooth ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* Please let us know if you find errors!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.6_PCB&diff=80551Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB2013-02-01T02:23:23Z<p>Sjw107273131: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{UltimakerPCB}}<br />
{{Languages|RAMPS}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Ultimaker's v1.5.6 PCB<br />
|description = A 5 axis RepRap ArduinoMega Pololu Shield<br />
|license = [[GPL|GPLv3]]<br />
|author = Jan-Jaap Schuurman, Siert Wijnia, ErikDeBruijn<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
|external_link = [[https://shop.ultimaker.com/ Buy it here!]]<br />
|image = ...<br />
}} <br />
<br />
Eagle Files and BOM: [[media:Arduino_MEGA_Ultimaker_Shield_v1.5.6.zip]]<br />
<br />
==Version 1.5.6 of the electronics==<br />
<br />
Warning: this is for version 1.5.6 of the [[Ultimaker]] PCB. If you have a [[Ultimaker RAMPS v1.3 PCB|older version]] of this board, this guide does NOT apply. The 1.5.5 version of the PCB was never produced, so an intermediate version isn't released because of its limited usefulness.<br />
<br />
This is a board that's very similar to other [[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu-based electronics]] implementations, including [[RAMPS]], but it can support up to 5 steppers (three for X, Y, Z, one for an extruder and one for any other function). You can add as many stepper driver carriers as you need. It is designed to run at higher voltages than 12 Volts, This allows you to put 90 Watts out of one MOSFET and run your stepper motors with more torque and higher maximum speeds. This board is also used on the Mantis-30 milling machine from Protospace and on various Mendel's that people have built.<br />
<br />
=== Where to get it? ===<br />
It's sold in the [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and-upgrades.html Ultimaker 3D printing shop]<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
[[File:UltimakerPCB1.5.4-prototype.JPG|500px]]<br />
===Specifications===<br />
* [[Arduino Mega]] Shield<br />
* Plug in all motors with simple 4-way JST connectors.<br />
* Made for [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultistepperdriver-a4988.html Ultimaker's UltiStepper Driver].<br />
* Compatible with [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s.<br />
* Controls up to 5 stepper motors (3 for the X, Y and Z axis one for an extruder (the "E axis"), optionally you can add another axis by adding a Pololu stepper driver.<br />
* Configurable step sizes by placing jumpers<br />
* 3x 55 Amp MOSFETs outputs (with LED indicators. Actual current capability limited by PCB and connectors)<br />
* All pins are broken out for maximum extensibility<br />
* Runs from 15V to 19V.<br />
* Three thermocouple inputs, or thermistor inputs. The 100K thermistor is recommended.<br />
* Has a IDC header for adding an LCD panel ([http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWq8ZKWq6w movie here])<br />
* Has a header for adding an SD card module.<br />
* A toggle-switch for powering up/down the board<br />
* Easier to wire up thermocouples<br />
* Includes a 12V regulator for an (always on) fan to cool the electronics.<br />
* A PWM output with power for LED arrays and other lighting<br />
* LCD backlight dimming can now be software controlled<br />
* A serial I/O header for bluetooth and ethernet add-ons.<br />
* Servo outputs for experimental setups. They need to be interrupt or software driven as the pins routed to the servo header I/O do not have PWM.<br />
<br />
New features and improvements of previous version:<br />
* Compatible with UltiController<br />
- The Arduino Mega 2560 can be self-powered from the DC-jack.<br />
- Jumper added for controlling autonomous power setting<br />
- 100 uF connection to Vcc2<br />
- High-current track from DC jack and ON/OFF switch moved slightly<br />
- Better suiting the footprint of the rocker switch<br />
<br />
Marlin firmware compatibility is unaffected by this updated PCB.<br />
<br />
'''Please provide your comments for further improvements ( erik at ultimaker (dot) c o m ).'''<br />
<br />
=== Pinout of Extension connectors ===<br />
Arduino pins as seen from above, the gray box with the text is also the orientation part of the connector<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP1<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|5 (PWM)<br />
| 16 (TX2)<br />
| 17 (RX2)<br />
| 18 (TX1)<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 6 (PWM)<br />
| 21 (SCL)<br />
| 20 (SDA)<br />
| 19 (RX1)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;"| EXP2<br />
!scope="col" style="border:0" colspan="2"|<br />
|-<br />
| GND<br />
|38<br />
| 40<br />
| 42<br />
| 50 MISO<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 51 MOSI<br />
| 53 SS<br />
| 52 SCK<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP3 PWM<br />
|-<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| 13<br />
| 12<br />
| 11<br />
| 10<br />
| 9 <br />
| 8<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="8"| EXP4 - Unmarked Analog<br />
|-<br />
| A12 (Digital 66)<br />
| A14 (Digital 68)<br />
| A13 (Digital 67)<br />
| A15 (Digital 69)<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"<br />
|-<br />
! style="background-color:gray;color=white;" colspan="13"| Analog<br />
|-<br />
| 3.3V<br />
| 5V<br />
| GND<br />
| GND<br />
| VIN (Arduino supply)<br />
| A0 (Digital 54)<br />
| A1 (Digital 55)<br />
| A2 (Digital 56)<br />
| A3 (Digital 57)<br />
| A4 (Digital 58)<br />
| A5 (Digital 59)<br />
| A6 (Digital 60)<br />
| A7 (Digital 61)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===The tools you need===<br />
[[File:Soldering_requirements.jpg|thumb|200px|right]]<br/><br />
* soldering iron<br/><br />
* solder<br/><br />
* wire-snip pliers<br/><br />
* small hacksaw<br />
<br />
===Step 1 Solder the arduino-side headers===<br />
These instructions are actually for the 1.5.3 version.<br />
<br />
We start at the back, the side without any text, with the male pinheads.<br/><br />
This will be the base where the arduino will be sitting later. Carefully break or cut the header pins to size.<br />
<br />
The best way to get the pins well-aligned, is to put these (with the longest side) in the Arduino, and then the arduino with the pins still sticking out in the backside of the PCB.<br/><br />
This will make sure that the pins are aligned correctly with the Arduino.<br/><br />
Solder the pins on the front side of the PCB, and remove the Arduino afterwards. <br />
<br />
Take care to remove it vertically by alternating between lifting the left and right side of the PCB. You will bend the header pins if you remove it and it finally releases with a twisting motion, see the picture:<br><br />
[[File:RemovingUltimakerShield.png]]<br />
<br />
When you're done, it should look like this:<br>[[File:Malepinheadconectionsbottom.jpg|400px|thumb left]]<br />
<br />
Now we are going to place the components on printed side (with the white silk-screened texts on it). It is good practice to start with the smallest or lowest components.<br />
<br />
== Add-ons ==<br />
=== Thermocouple sensor board ===<br />
When you have played a lot with DIY 3D printers, you'll find that an accurate temperature measurement of your extruder is very important to achieving the best result. Thermocouples are more reliable and more accurate sensors than thermistors, but the also are more pricey because you need to have the measured signal amplified with a special chip. This chip (in this case AD597) is on the tiny Ultimaker TC board. <br />
<br />
==== Using it with the v1.5.4 PCB ====<br />
Note: it is very important that the resistor R23 is NOT mounted. '''The resistor R23 is meant for use with a thermistor based measurement only!''' If it IS installed, you can just cut it away, because if you have a thermocouple it is unlikely that you will go back to thermistors. Similarly, if you use the other thermocouple inputs (Temp2 or Temp3) you need to leave out resistors R21 or R4 (which are all located next to R23).<br />
<br />
The convention for the first extruder, is to use Temp1. In case you use a second extruder, use Temp2 and for a heated bed, use Temp3.<br />
<br />
[[File:UltimakerTC-to-1.5.3PCB1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
Note: follow this specific order:<br />
# Connect the 5V to the thermocouple board.<br />
# Power up the Arduino by connecting it to the USB port of your computer.<br />
# Connect the ground (- or GND) to the thermocouple board. The blue LED should light up on the little thermocouple board.<br />
# If you already have the software installed: Open up ReplicatorG, look at what reading you get in the control panel.<br />
# Connect the signal wire (Sig). See if the value changes. If it does not, you have the wires connected incorrectly or the firmware tries to read a different input.<br />
The thermocouple board has three connections to the Ultimaker PCB, signal, power (+ or 5V) and ground (- or GND). The preferred wire colors are brown or any other color, red and black, respectively. <br />
<br />
The Ultimaker thermocouples have Yellow and Red wires. The yellow one goes into the + of the little thermocouple sensor board, the red thermocouple wire goes into - of the thermocouple board (on the TWO wire screw terminal, not the 3 wire terminal). Cut the thermocouple wire to exactly 15 centimeters, this is optimal because the wire will pick up less interference (the shorter the better) but not be too short (which is a problem for the sensor chip, it thinks the inputs are shorted out).<br />
<br />
==== Checklist / What to do if it doesn't work ====<br />
# Always make sure you're running the [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_upload_new_firmware_to_the_motherboard Ultimaker firmware].<br />
# The temperature goes DOWN to 0 if I heat up the thermocouple. This means that you have switch the thermocouple wires.<br />
# The values are incorrect: Check if the resistors are left out or removed (see above).<br />
# The value is 499.9 degrees: Check if all connections are correct, and if reliable wires are used.<br />
# Does the temperature fluctuate too much? Check if C1, C9 and C10 are installed.<br />
# The thermocouple is nothing more that two wires of a specific metal that are connected together at one end. This is the measurement end. You can make your own by fusing the end together (do not use solder, it will melt at normal operating temperatures of the extruder. The original thermocouple supplied with Ultimakers has a standardized thermal resistance to the aluminium heater block, so this will give the most reliable measurement.<br />
# Using your own firmware? The AD597, as used in the Ultimaker thermocouple PCB, is fully compatible with the AD595. Make sure that the AD595_THERMOCOUPLE is defined and thermistor measurements are turned off.<br />
# If you switched the black and signal wires, the LED can be lit, but this is no confirmation that you've wired it up correctly. Incorrect wiring may damage your thermocouple sensor board.<br />
# The thermocouple always shows room temperature, but isn't changing when I warm up the thermocouple with a lighter: the AD597 chip is currently in self-measurement mode. If the + and - inputs of the thermocouple have a very low resistance, it will not give you the temperature of the thermocouple, but of the chip itself. Check this by placing a warm finger on the chip. If the value change quickly, this is indeed the case. Extend the thermocouple wires with terminal blocks or solder them together to get a higher resistance between the thermocouple inputs.<br />
<br />
==== Prototype / Design ====<br />
[[File:TC-0.9-Prototype2 turned on.JPG|300px|]]<br />
<br />
Picture: CC-SA-BY Erik de Bruijn<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker-TC0.4-PCB-layout-picture.png|thumbnail]]<br />
<br />
Files:<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.sch]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
* [[File:Thermocouple board v0.4.brd]] - files are licenced Creative Commons, Attribution, Share Alike<br />
<br />
=== LCD ===<br />
The configuration of the LCD with buttons is explained [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Simple_LCD_Interface on the Ultimaker wiki] (thanks to Bernhard!).<br />
<br />
This is an add-on board for Hitachi parallel interface LCD controllers. [[File:Ultimaker-LCD-Add-on.JPG|thumbnail]]. Currently the firmware uses two lines of 16 characters on the display.<br />
<br />
=== SD-CARD and Micro SD-CARD ===<br />
Erik developed a SD-CARD expansion. This add-on also has a led and a break-out of all the used pins.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ultimaker_SD_card0.9.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Jan-Jaap also developed a micro SD-card expansion which is a bit smaller, it does includes a led but doesn't included the pins break-out.<br />
<br />
[[File:IMG_0725_-1024x768-.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/03/28/ultimaker-mirco-sd-card-extension/<br />
<br />
=== Wireless/Bluetooth ===<br />
Jan-Jaap developed a bluetooth add on that allows for wireless printing. <br />
<br />
[[File:jjshortcut-Ultimaker-wireless.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
It is documented on his blog:<br><br />
http://jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/<br />
----<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.sch<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the electric circuit<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.sch]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
| [[Ultimaker]] SD Add-on v0.9 for v1.5.4.brd<br />
| Eagle CAD files<br />
| These are Eagle CAD files for the PCB layout<br />
| [[media:Ultimaker_SD_Add-on_v0.9_for_v1.5.4.brd]]<br />
| [[User:ErikDeBruijn|--Erik]] Tue Feb 15 04:00 CET 2011<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
=== Changes ===<br />
* There was a tiny mistake in the silkscreen, the 36 pin header of the Arduino has 5V on pins 1 and 2 and GND on pins 35 and 36. The mistake is that the silkscreen has a label for Arduino digital pin 22 and 23 one row too high (so besides the 5V outputs). Since version 1.5.4 this is fixed.<br />
* 1.5.4 can measure if the power it turned on and which voltage power supply was connected.<br />
* Please let us know if you find errors!<br />
<br />
[[Category:Ultimaker electronics]]</div>Sjw107273131