https://reprap.org/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Quenta&feedformat=atomRepRap - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T05:18:20ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.30.0https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=179209No Ooze Nozzle2017-04-26T14:23:08Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}<br />
}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end. By having this ball-valve gate, oozing can be reduced. I am noting that this measure is not enough to totally shut out oozing, because there is still some room in between the valve and the extruding bore.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
====Dual Extrusion Ooze Countermeasures====<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
Another bad thing is, because of the significant weight of the toolchanger for dual extrusion, once you modify your machine to dual extrusion, it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
All in all '''with dual extrusion you are likely to waste a lot of material and time'''. <br />
<br />
==No More ****!!==<br />
With the No Ooze Nozzle, you will no more need to mess with these countermeasures:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to a normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. <br />
<br />
The adjustment of the opening force of the valve is REALLY crucial. If it had exceeded 1.5N, you will likely get hardly any plastic flowing. If you have less than 0.5N, it will start oozing. Machining of inconsistent center of 0.1 mm is enough for leaking. These are because molten plastics have very low surface tension. So the barrel & the nut must be very carefully machined, and polished for fewer flow resistance. <br />
<br />
Had cleared all the precision requirements, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height with the temperature of 200 degrees Celsius and a 0.4 diameter nozzle with PLA.<br />
<br />
It is recommended that you do not waste your time by sourcing it from an unreliable manufacturer.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 2N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees, and a bowden cable of 40cm was used. Fewer retraction will be needed for direct mount extruders.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Handling & Maintenance ==<br />
Sometimes when the nozzle is clogged, you want to unscrew only the acorn nut for maintenance, but the whole assembly comes off the hotend. Or, vise verse, sometimes you want to unscrew the whole assembly for replacement, but only the acorn nut comes off the hotend.<br />
<br />
To unscrew the part where you want, first prepare a wet sponge, and then raise the temperature of the hotend to the relevant melting temperature. Then,<br />
* to unscrew only the acorn nut, touch the heater block with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
* to unscrew the whole assembly, touch the end of the nozzle with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
<br />
Hint: the cooled side is tight, and the hot side is loose. This is for thermal expansion and the stickiness of the plastic.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle/ja&diff=179208No Ooze Nozzle/ja2017-04-26T14:22:40Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}<br />
}}<br />
== 概要と背景 ==<br />
No Ooze Nozzle は、内部に機械式の弁を仕込んだホットエンドノズルです。コールドエンド側からフィラメントを圧送すると、弁が開いて、リトラクトすると弁が閉まって、ノズルからのタレを抑制できます。残念なことに、弁と、射出口の間に溜まった樹脂は漏れ出てくることもあるので、これは完全な製品とは言えません。<br />
<br />
このタレの問題はどのFDM 3Dプリンターであっても共通の問題です。お使いのマシンが1射出型の場合には、タレはちょっと鬱陶しいくらいですが、2射出以上においてはタレた樹脂がワークに接触、仕上がりが荒れてしまいます。また、タレた後の始動時には射出不足・不良が起き、欠陥もたくさん発生します。<br />
<br />
====2射出の問題と対策====<br />
この問題に対し、ハードウェアとソフトウェアの両方から様々な対策が取られていますが、それらは非常に煩わしいものです。<br />
<br />
ひとつの手法として、遊休ノズルをプリント位置から退避させる機構が実用化されています。しかし、タレそのものは改善されるわけではないので、重量増の割には芳しい結果を得ることができません。ソフトウェア側の対策も、依然、必要です。<br />
<br />
もうひとつの手法として、[[Diamond Hotend]] や E3D Cyclobsのような、2素材を1つのノズルから射出する方式があります。しかし、これはノズル内部で樹脂が混ざってしまうため、結局プライム・ピラーというソフトウェア側の対策が必要です。<br />
<br />
また、遊休ノズルの温度を下げることも有効です。しかし、温度が下がるまではタレが発生しますし、再始動時の加熱に時間がかかるなど、やはり問題は残ります。<br />
<br />
ソフトウェア側の対策としては、Ooze Shield と呼ばれる、ヨダレかけのような壁を造形物の周りに建設する方法、Prime Pillarと呼ばれる、段替後の射出不足・不良を解消する柱のようなものを余ったスペースにプリントする対策があります。しかし、いずれも造形時間が増える上、材料も無駄になります。さらに、Ooze Shield に関しては、プリントする物体によってはうまく建設することも難しくなり、形状の制約がでてきてしまいます。<br />
<br />
そして、さらに残念なことに、2射出に改造したあなたのマシンは、段替え機構の重量が増えたことにより重たく、遅くなり、1射出として使うときも造形スピードを落とさざるを得なくなります。<br />
<br />
以上のことから、結局、これまでの2射出は、あまり実用的なものとは言えませんでした。<br />
<br />
<br />
==もう、面倒なことはやめましょう==<br />
このNo Ooze Nozzleがあれば、以下のものをすべてやめ、単に1射出の機構を2つにするだけで、実用的な2射出を作ることができます。<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* 段替え時特有のリトラクト<br />
* 遊休ノズルの冷却<br />
* 段替機構<br />
<br />
<br />
== 見た目 ==<br />
No ooze nozzle は、たった4点の小さな部品で構成され、実質的な重量増は0で、劇的な改善を達成します。下記はMakerbot Replicator などとも互換の、一般的な実用例です。<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | カットモデル<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | 4つの部品<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | アッセンブリ<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== 仕組み ==<br />
仕組みはとてもシンプル。コールドエンド側から圧力がかかったときに弁が開き、リトラクトすると閉まります。なお、残圧でも弁は開くため、リトラクトが多少は必要です。<br />
<br />
== 注意 ==<br />
ちょっとした欠点として、このNo Ooze Nozzleは、弁を開くために、少し高い圧力が必要となります。また、内部のボールとバネがどうしてもプラスチックの流れの妨げとなります。ハイパワーなEモーターを使うことはもちろん、それを減速してトルクを増幅することが推奨されます。<br />
<br />
製造に際しての注意としては、開弁圧の設定が、極めて繊細です。開弁圧が1.5Nを超えたならば、樹脂は殆ど射出されなくなってきてしまいます。もし、開弁圧が0.5Nを下回ったならば、今度はタレを止める効果があまりなくなってしまいます。さらに、3つの工具による穴あけ加工の芯が0.1mmでもズレていれば、やはり融けた樹脂をタレルことを止めることに失敗するでしょう。また、空けた穴はリーマーと研磨液で注意深く鏡面のように仕上げることで、流量が改善します。<br />
<br />
以上のように、精密な研削を経て、筆者はPLA樹脂、レイヤ高さ0.2mm、0,4mm口径のノズルを使い、200℃で80mm/secを達成しました。通常のカルテジアン型のマシンでこのスピードであれば、十分と言えるでしょう。デルタ型では、ちょっとスピードを落としたほうがいいかもしれません。<br />
<br />
購入するにあたっては、信頼できる加工屋さんを選定できなければ、単に時間を失うだけになることは明らかですので、気をつけましょう。<br />
<br />
== どうやって手に入れるの? ==<br />
まだ、商業的にこの製品を作っている人はいません。DIYで作る場合には、下記のツールを用意しましょう:<br />
*ボール盤<br />
*2mm ドリル<br />
*3mm ドリル<br />
*2mm リーマ<br />
*3mm リーマ<br />
*2.5mm ボール型リューターハイスビット<br />
<br />
手近なストアや通販から、下記のものを用意しましょう。<br />
*2.5mm ボール<br />
*バネ (L = 4mm, 巻数5くらい, 外径=2.6mmくらい, バネ定数2N/mmくらい)<br />
*M6 真鍮袋ナット<br />
*M6 寸切 (L = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ボール<br />
<br />
<br />
== 動画 ==<br />
下記の動画を見れば、実際に射出を行い、リトラクトし、樹脂がタレて出てこないことを確認できます。材料はPLAで、リトラクトは3mm程度、ホットエンド温度は200℃です。40cmのボーデンケーブルを使っており、ダイレクト・マウント型ではリトラクトはもっと少なくて済むでしょう。<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
<br />
== 扱いとメンテナンスにおける注意 ==<br />
たまにノズルが詰まったときに、No Ooze Nozzleは、先っぽの部分だけ外したいことがあります。また、ノズルを交換したいことがあるともいますが、そのときは全体を外したくなると思います。しかし、狙った方を外せないことが多々あるので、そのときのコツを書いておきます。<br />
<br />
まず、レンチと水に浸したスポンジを用意してください。そして、樹脂の融点までホットエンドの温度を上げましょう。<br />
* 先端の袋ナットだけを外したい場合、ヒーターブロックを水で冷やして、すぐにナットを緩めましょう。<br />
* 全体を交換したい場合、ノズルの先っちょを水で冷やして、すぐにナットを緩めましょう。<br />
<br />
ヒント:冷やした側が、ネジがきつくなります。温かい側が、ネジがゆるくなります。これは冷やすとメネジが小さくなり、密着がよくなるのと、間に入り込んだ樹脂が固まるからです。</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=179207No Ooze Nozzle2017-04-26T14:20:04Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}<br />
|url = [https://quenta.handcrafted.jp/ webstore]<br />
}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end. By having this ball-valve gate, oozing can be reduced. I am noting that this measure is not enough to totally shut out oozing, because there is still some room in between the valve and the extruding bore.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
====Dual Extrusion Ooze Countermeasures====<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
Another bad thing is, because of the significant weight of the toolchanger for dual extrusion, once you modify your machine to dual extrusion, it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
All in all '''with dual extrusion you are likely to waste a lot of material and time'''. <br />
<br />
==No More ****!!==<br />
With the No Ooze Nozzle, you will no more need to mess with these countermeasures:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to a normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. <br />
<br />
The adjustment of the opening force of the valve is REALLY crucial. If it had exceeded 1.5N, you will likely get hardly any plastic flowing. If you have less than 0.5N, it will start oozing. Machining of inconsistent center of 0.1 mm is enough for leaking. These are because molten plastics have very low surface tension. So the barrel & the nut must be very carefully machined, and polished for fewer flow resistance. <br />
<br />
Had cleared all the precision requirements, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height with the temperature of 200 degrees Celsius and a 0.4 diameter nozzle with PLA.<br />
<br />
It is recommended that you do not waste your time by sourcing it from an unreliable manufacturer.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 2N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees, and a bowden cable of 40cm was used. Fewer retraction will be needed for direct mount extruders.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Handling & Maintenance ==<br />
Sometimes when the nozzle is clogged, you want to unscrew only the acorn nut for maintenance, but the whole assembly comes off the hotend. Or, vise verse, sometimes you want to unscrew the whole assembly for replacement, but only the acorn nut comes off the hotend.<br />
<br />
To unscrew the part where you want, first prepare a wet sponge, and then raise the temperature of the hotend to the relevant melting temperature. Then,<br />
* to unscrew only the acorn nut, touch the heater block with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
* to unscrew the whole assembly, touch the end of the nozzle with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
<br />
Hint: the cooled side is tight, and the hot side is loose. This is for thermal expansion and the stickiness of the plastic.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178396No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-22T12:35:47Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}<br />
|url = [https://quenta.handcrafted.jp/ webstore]<br />
}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end. By having this ball-valve gate, oozing can be nearly totally stopped.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
====Dual Extrusion Ooze Countermeasures====<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
Another bad thing is, because of the significant weight of the toolchanger for dual extrusion, once you modify your machine to dual extrusion, it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
All in all '''with dual extrusion you are likely to waste a lot of material and time'''. <br />
<br />
==No More ****!!==<br />
With the No Ooze Nozzle, you will no more need to mess with these countermeasures:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to a normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. <br />
<br />
The adjustment of the opening force of the valve is REALLY crucial. If it had exceeded 1.5N, you will likely get hardly any plastic flowing. If you have less than 0.5N, it will start oozing. Machining of inconsistent center of 0.1 mm is enough for leaking. These are because molten plastics have very low surface tension. So the barrel & the nut must be very carefully machined, and polished for fewer flow resistance. <br />
<br />
Had cleared all the precision requirements, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height with the temperature of 200 degrees Celsius and a 0.4 diameter nozzle with PLA.<br />
<br />
It is recommended that you do not waste your time by sourcing it from an unreliable manufacturer.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 2N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees, and a bowden cable of 40cm was used. Fewer retraction will be needed for direct mount extruders.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Handling & Maintenance ==<br />
Sometimes when the nozzle is clogged, you want to unscrew only the acorn nut for maintenance, but the whole assembly comes off the hotend. Or, vise verse, sometimes you want to unscrew the whole assembly for replacement, but only the acorn nut comes off the hotend.<br />
<br />
To unscrew the part where you want, first prepare a wet sponge, and then raise the temperature of the hotend to the relevant melting temperature. Then,<br />
* to unscrew only the acorn nut, touch the heater block with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
* to unscrew the whole assembly, touch the end of the nozzle with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
<br />
Hint: the cooled side is tight, and the hot side is loose. This is for thermal expansion and the stickiness of the plastic.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle/ja&diff=178395No Ooze Nozzle/ja2017-02-22T12:35:19Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}<br />
|url = [https://quenta.handcrafted.jp/ webstore]<br />
}}<br />
== 概要と背景 ==<br />
No Ooze Nozzle は、内部に機械式の弁を仕込んだホットエンドノズルです。コールドエンド側からフィラメントを圧送すると、弁が開いて、リトラクトすると弁が閉まって、ノズルからのタレをほぼ完全に抑制できます。<br />
<br />
このタレの問題はどのFDM 3Dプリンターであっても共通の問題です。お使いのマシンが1射出型の場合には、タレはちょっと鬱陶しいくらいですが、2射出以上においてはタレた樹脂がワークに接触、仕上がりが荒れてしまいます。また、タレた後の始動時には射出不足・不良が起き、欠陥もたくさん発生します。<br />
<br />
====2射出の問題と対策====<br />
この問題に対し、ハードウェアとソフトウェアの両方から様々な対策が取られていますが、それらは非常に煩わしいものです。<br />
<br />
ひとつの手法として、遊休ノズルをプリント位置から退避させる機構が実用化されています。しかし、タレそのものは改善されるわけではないので、重量増の割には芳しい結果を得ることができません。ソフトウェア側の対策も、依然、必要です。<br />
<br />
もうひとつの手法として、[[Diamond Hotend]] や E3D Cyclobsのような、2素材を1つのノズルから射出する方式があります。しかし、これはノズル内部で樹脂が混ざってしまうため、結局プライム・ピラーというソフトウェア側の対策が必要です。<br />
<br />
また、遊休ノズルの温度を下げることも有効です。しかし、温度が下がるまではタレが発生しますし、再始動時の加熱に時間がかかるなど、やはり問題は残ります。<br />
<br />
ソフトウェア側の対策としては、Ooze Shield と呼ばれる、ヨダレかけのような壁を造形物の周りに建設する方法、Prime Pillarと呼ばれる、段替後の射出不足・不良を解消する柱のようなものを余ったスペースにプリントする対策があります。しかし、いずれも造形時間が増える上、材料も無駄になります。さらに、Ooze Shield に関しては、プリントする物体によってはうまく建設することも難しくなり、形状の制約がでてきてしまいます。<br />
<br />
そして、さらに残念なことに、2射出に改造したあなたのマシンは、段替え機構の重量が増えたことにより重たく、遅くなり、1射出として使うときも造形スピードを落とさざるを得なくなります。<br />
<br />
以上のことから、結局、これまでの2射出は、あまり実用的なものとは言えませんでした。<br />
<br />
<br />
==もう、面倒なことはやめましょう==<br />
このNo Ooze Nozzleがあれば、以下のものをすべてやめ、単に1射出の機構を2つにするだけで、実用的な2射出を作ることができます。<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* 段替え時特有のリトラクト<br />
* 遊休ノズルの冷却<br />
* 段替機構<br />
<br />
<br />
== 見た目 ==<br />
No ooze nozzle は、たった4点の小さな部品で構成され、実質的な重量増は0で、劇的な改善を達成します。下記はMakerbot Replicator などとも互換の、一般的な実用例です。<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | カットモデル<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | 4つの部品<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | アッセンブリ<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== 仕組み ==<br />
仕組みはとてもシンプル。コールドエンド側から圧力がかかったときに弁が開き、リトラクトすると閉まります。なお、残圧でも弁は開くため、リトラクトが多少は必要です。<br />
<br />
== 注意 ==<br />
ちょっとした欠点として、このNo Ooze Nozzleは、弁を開くために、少し高い圧力が必要となります。また、内部のボールとバネがどうしてもプラスチックの流れの妨げとなります。ハイパワーなEモーターを使うことはもちろん、それを減速してトルクを増幅することが推奨されます。<br />
<br />
製造に際しての注意としては、開弁圧の設定が、極めて繊細です。開弁圧が1.5Nを超えたならば、樹脂は殆ど射出されなくなってきてしまいます。もし、開弁圧が0.5Nを下回ったならば、今度はタレを止める効果があまりなくなってしまいます。さらに、3つの工具による穴あけ加工の芯が0.1mmでもズレていれば、やはり融けた樹脂をタレルことを止めることに失敗するでしょう。また、空けた穴はリーマーと研磨液で注意深く鏡面のように仕上げることで、流量が改善します。<br />
<br />
以上のように、精密な研削を経て、筆者はPLA樹脂、レイヤ高さ0.2mm、0,4mm口径のノズルを使い、200℃で80mm/secを達成しました。通常のカルテジアン型のマシンでこのスピードであれば、十分と言えるでしょう。デルタ型では、ちょっとスピードを落としたほうがいいかもしれません。<br />
<br />
購入するにあたっては、信頼できる加工屋さんを選定できなければ、単に時間を失うだけになることは明らかですので、気をつけましょう。<br />
<br />
== どうやって手に入れるの? ==<br />
まだ、商業的にこの製品を作っている人はいません。DIYで作る場合には、下記のツールを用意しましょう:<br />
*ボール盤<br />
*2mm ドリル<br />
*3mm ドリル<br />
*2mm リーマ<br />
*3mm リーマ<br />
*2.5mm ボール型リューターハイスビット<br />
<br />
手近なストアや通販から、下記のものを用意しましょう。<br />
*2.5mm ボール<br />
*バネ (L = 4mm, 巻数5くらい, 外径=2.6mmくらい, バネ定数2N/mmくらい)<br />
*M6 真鍮袋ナット<br />
*M6 寸切 (L = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ボール<br />
<br />
<br />
== 動画 ==<br />
下記の動画を見れば、実際に射出を行い、リトラクトし、樹脂がタレて出てこないことを確認できます。材料はPLAで、リトラクトは3mm程度、ホットエンド温度は200℃です。40cmのボーデンケーブルを使っており、ダイレクト・マウント型ではリトラクトはもっと少なくて済むでしょう。<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
<br />
== 扱いとメンテナンスにおける注意 ==<br />
たまにノズルが詰まったときに、No Ooze Nozzleは、先っぽの部分だけ外したいことがあります。また、ノズルを交換したいことがあるともいますが、そのときは全体を外したくなると思います。しかし、狙った方を外せないことが多々あるので、そのときのコツを書いておきます。<br />
<br />
まず、レンチと水に浸したスポンジを用意してください。そして、樹脂の融点までホットエンドの温度を上げましょう。<br />
* 先端の袋ナットだけを外したい場合、ヒーターブロックを水で冷やして、すぐにナットを緩めましょう。<br />
* 全体を交換したい場合、ノズルの先っちょを水で冷やして、すぐにナットを緩めましょう。<br />
<br />
ヒント:冷やした側が、ネジがきつくなります。温かい側が、ネジがゆるくなります。これは冷やすとメネジが小さくなり、密着がよくなるのと、間に入り込んだ樹脂が固まるからです。</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle/ja&diff=178316No Ooze Nozzle/ja2017-02-19T15:01:54Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}<br />
|url = [http://admin.thebase.in/users/edit_shop?time=1487515813 webstore]<br />
}}<br />
== 概要と背景 ==<br />
No Ooze Nozzle は、内部に機械式の弁を仕込んだホットエンドノズルです。コールドエンド側からフィラメントを圧送すると、弁が開いて、リトラクトすると弁が閉まって、ノズルからのタレをほぼ完全に抑制できます。<br />
<br />
このタレの問題はどのFDM 3Dプリンターであっても共通の問題です。お使いのマシンが1射出型の場合には、タレはちょっと鬱陶しいくらいですが、2射出以上においてはタレた樹脂がワークに接触、仕上がりが荒れてしまいます。また、タレた後の始動時には射出不足・不良が起き、欠陥もたくさん発生します。<br />
<br />
====2射出の問題と対策====<br />
この問題に対し、ハードウェアとソフトウェアの両方から様々な対策が取られていますが、それらは非常に煩わしいものです。<br />
<br />
ひとつの手法として、遊休ノズルをプリント位置から退避させる機構が実用化されています。しかし、タレそのものは改善されるわけではないので、重量増の割には芳しい結果を得ることができません。ソフトウェア側の対策も、依然、必要です。<br />
<br />
もうひとつの手法として、[[Diamond Hotend]] や E3D Cyclobsのような、2素材を1つのノズルから射出する方式があります。しかし、これはノズル内部で樹脂が混ざってしまうため、結局プライム・ピラーというソフトウェア側の対策が必要です。<br />
<br />
また、遊休ノズルの温度を下げることも有効です。しかし、温度が下がるまではタレが発生しますし、再始動時の加熱に時間がかかるなど、やはり問題は残ります。<br />
<br />
ソフトウェア側の対策としては、Ooze Shield と呼ばれる、ヨダレかけのような壁を造形物の周りに建設する方法、Prime Pillarと呼ばれる、段替後の射出不足・不良を解消する柱のようなものを余ったスペースにプリントする対策があります。しかし、いずれも造形時間が増える上、材料も無駄になります。さらに、Ooze Shield に関しては、プリントする物体によってはうまく建設することも難しくなり、形状の制約がでてきてしまいます。<br />
<br />
そして、さらに残念なことに、2射出に改造したあなたのマシンは、段替え機構の重量が増えたことにより重たく、遅くなり、1射出として使うときも造形スピードを落とさざるを得なくなります。<br />
<br />
以上のことから、結局、これまでの2射出は、あまり実用的なものとは言えませんでした。<br />
<br />
<br />
==もう、面倒なことはやめましょう==<br />
このNo Ooze Nozzleがあれば、以下のものをすべてやめ、単に1射出の機構を2つにするだけで、実用的な2射出を作ることができます。<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* 段替え時特有のリトラクト<br />
* 遊休ノズルの冷却<br />
* 段替機構<br />
<br />
<br />
== 見た目 ==<br />
No ooze nozzle は、たった4点の小さな部品で構成され、実質的な重量増は0で、劇的な改善を達成します。下記はMakerbot Replicator などとも互換の、一般的な実用例です。<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | カットモデル<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | 4つの部品<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | アッセンブリ<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== 仕組み ==<br />
仕組みはとてもシンプル。コールドエンド側から圧力がかかったときに弁が開き、リトラクトすると閉まります。なお、残圧でも弁は開くため、リトラクトが多少は必要です。<br />
<br />
== 注意 ==<br />
ちょっとした欠点として、このNo Ooze Nozzleは、弁を開くために、少し高い圧力が必要となります。また、内部のボールとバネがどうしてもプラスチックの流れの妨げとなります。ハイパワーなEモーターを使うことはもちろん、それを減速してトルクを増幅することが推奨されます。<br />
<br />
製造に際しての注意としては、開弁圧の設定が、極めて繊細です。開弁圧が1.5Nを超えたならば、樹脂は殆ど射出されなくなってきてしまいます。もし、開弁圧が0.5Nを下回ったならば、今度はタレを止める効果があまりなくなってしまいます。さらに、3つの工具による穴あけ加工の芯が0.1mmでもズレていれば、やはり融けた樹脂をタレルことを止めることに失敗するでしょう。また、空けた穴はリーマーと研磨液で注意深く鏡面のように仕上げることで、流量が改善します。<br />
<br />
以上のように、精密な研削を経て、筆者はPLA樹脂、レイヤ高さ0.2mm、0,4mm口径のノズルを使い、200℃で80mm/secを達成しました。通常のカルテジアン型のマシンでこのスピードであれば、十分と言えるでしょう。デルタ型では、ちょっとスピードを落としたほうがいいかもしれません。<br />
<br />
購入するにあたっては、信頼できる加工屋さんを選定できなければ、単に時間を失うだけになることは明らかですので、気をつけましょう。<br />
<br />
== どうやって手に入れるの? ==<br />
まだ、商業的にこの製品を作っている人はいません。DIYで作る場合には、下記のツールを用意しましょう:<br />
*ボール盤<br />
*2mm ドリル<br />
*3mm ドリル<br />
*2mm リーマ<br />
*3mm リーマ<br />
*2.5mm ボール型リューターハイスビット<br />
<br />
手近なストアや通販から、下記のものを用意しましょう。<br />
*2.5mm ボール<br />
*バネ (L = 4mm, 巻数5くらい, 外径=2.6mmくらい, バネ定数2N/mmくらい)<br />
*M6 真鍮袋ナット<br />
*M6 寸切 (L = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ボール<br />
<br />
<br />
== 動画 ==<br />
下記の動画を見れば、実際に射出を行い、リトラクトし、樹脂がタレて出てこないことを確認できます。材料はPLAで、リトラクトは3mm程度、ホットエンド温度は200℃です。40cmのボーデンケーブルを使っており、ダイレクト・マウント型ではリトラクトはもっと少なくて済むでしょう。<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
<br />
== 扱いとメンテナンスにおける注意 ==<br />
たまにノズルが詰まったときに、No Ooze Nozzleは、先っぽの部分だけ外したいことがあります。また、ノズルを交換したいことがあるともいますが、そのときは全体を外したくなると思います。しかし、狙った方を外せないことが多々あるので、そのときのコツを書いておきます。<br />
<br />
まず、レンチと水に浸したスポンジを用意してください。そして、樹脂の融点までホットエンドの温度を上げましょう。<br />
* 先端の袋ナットだけを外したい場合、ヒーターブロックを水で冷やして、すぐにナットを緩めましょう。<br />
* 全体を交換したい場合、ノズルの先っちょを水で冷やして、すぐにナットを緩めましょう。<br />
<br />
ヒント:冷やした側が、ネジがきつくなります。温かい側が、ネジがゆるくなります。これは冷やすとメネジが小さくなり、密着がよくなるのと、間に入り込んだ樹脂が固まるからです。</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178315No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-19T15:00:36Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}<br />
|url = [http://admin.thebase.in/users/edit_shop?time=1487515813 webstore]<br />
}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end. By having this ball-valve gate, oozing can be nearly totally stopped.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
====Dual Extrusion Ooze Countermeasures====<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
Another bad thing is, because of the significant weight of the toolchanger for dual extrusion, once you modify your machine to dual extrusion, it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
All in all '''with dual extrusion you are likely to waste a lot of material and time'''. <br />
<br />
==No More ****!!==<br />
With the No Ooze Nozzle, you will no more need to mess with these countermeasures:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to a normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. <br />
<br />
The adjustment of the opening force of the valve is REALLY crucial. If it had exceeded 1.5N, you will likely get hardly any plastic flowing. If you have less than 0.5N, it will start oozing. Machining of inconsistent center of 0.1 mm is enough for leaking. These are because molten plastics have very low surface tension. So the barrel & the nut must be very carefully machined, and polished for fewer flow resistance. <br />
<br />
Had cleared all the precision requirements, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height with the temperature of 200 degrees Celsius and a 0.4 diameter nozzle with PLA.<br />
<br />
It is recommended that you do not waste your time by sourcing it from an unreliable manufacturer.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 2N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees, and a bowden cable of 40cm was used. Fewer retraction will be needed for direct mount extruders.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Handling & Maintenance ==<br />
Sometimes when the nozzle is clogged, you want to unscrew only the acorn nut for maintenance, but the whole assembly comes off the hotend. Or, vise verse, sometimes you want to unscrew the whole assembly for replacement, but only the acorn nut comes off the hotend.<br />
<br />
To unscrew the part where you want, first prepare a wet sponge, and then raise the temperature of the hotend to the relevant melting temperature. Then,<br />
* to unscrew only the acorn nut, touch the heater block with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
* to unscrew the whole assembly, touch the end of the nozzle with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
<br />
Hint: the cooled side is tight, and the hot side is loose. This is for thermal expansion and the stickiness of the plastic.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle/ja&diff=178314No Ooze Nozzle/ja2017-02-19T08:25:12Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== 概要と背景 ==<br />
No Ooze Nozzle は、内部に機械式の弁を仕込んだホットエンドノズルです。コールドエンド側からフィラメントを圧送すると、弁が開いて、リトラクトすると弁が閉まって、ノズルからのタレをほぼ完全に抑制できます。<br />
<br />
このタレの問題はどのFDM 3Dプリンターであっても共通の問題です。お使いのマシンが1射出型の場合には、タレはちょっと鬱陶しいくらいですが、2射出以上においてはタレた樹脂がワークに接触、仕上がりが荒れてしまいます。また、タレた後の始動時には射出不足・不良が起き、欠陥もたくさん発生します。<br />
<br />
====2射出の問題と対策====<br />
この問題に対し、ハードウェアとソフトウェアの両方から様々な対策が取られていますが、それらは非常に煩わしいものです。<br />
<br />
ひとつの手法として、遊休ノズルをプリント位置から退避させる機構が実用化されています。しかし、タレそのものは改善されるわけではないので、重量増の割には芳しい結果を得ることができません。ソフトウェア側の対策も、依然、必要です。<br />
<br />
もうひとつの手法として、[[Diamond Hotend]] や E3D Cyclobsのような、2素材を1つのノズルから射出する方式があります。しかし、これはノズル内部で樹脂が混ざってしまうため、結局プライム・ピラーというソフトウェア側の対策が必要です。<br />
<br />
また、遊休ノズルの温度を下げることも有効です。しかし、温度が下がるまではタレが発生しますし、再始動時の加熱に時間がかかるなど、やはり問題は残ります。<br />
<br />
ソフトウェア側の対策としては、Ooze Shield と呼ばれる、ヨダレかけのような壁を造形物の周りに建設する方法、Prime Pillarと呼ばれる、段替後の射出不足・不良を解消する柱のようなものを余ったスペースにプリントする対策があります。しかし、いずれも造形時間が増える上、材料も無駄になります。さらに、Ooze Shield に関しては、プリントする物体によってはうまく建設することも難しくなり、形状の制約がでてきてしまいます。<br />
<br />
そして、さらに残念なことに、2射出に改造したあなたのマシンは、段替え機構の重量が増えたことにより重たく、遅くなり、1射出として使うときも造形スピードを落とさざるを得なくなります。<br />
<br />
以上のことから、結局、これまでの2射出は、あまり実用的なものとは言えませんでした。<br />
<br />
<br />
==もう、面倒なことはやめましょう==<br />
このNo Ooze Nozzleがあれば、以下のものをすべてやめ、単に1射出の機構を2つにするだけで、実用的な2射出を作ることができます。<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* 段替え時特有のリトラクト<br />
* 遊休ノズルの冷却<br />
* 段替機構<br />
<br />
<br />
== 見た目 ==<br />
No ooze nozzle は、たった4点の小さな部品で構成され、実質的な重量増は0で、劇的な改善を達成します。下記はMakerbot Replicator などとも互換の、一般的な実用例です。<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | カットモデル<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | 4つの部品<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | アッセンブリ<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== 仕組み ==<br />
仕組みはとてもシンプル。コールドエンド側から圧力がかかったときに弁が開き、リトラクトすると閉まります。なお、残圧でも弁は開くため、リトラクトが多少は必要です。<br />
<br />
== 注意 ==<br />
ちょっとした欠点として、このNo Ooze Nozzleは、弁を開くために、少し高い圧力が必要となります。また、内部のボールとバネがどうしてもプラスチックの流れの妨げとなります。ハイパワーなEモーターを使うことはもちろん、それを減速してトルクを増幅することが推奨されます。<br />
<br />
製造に際しての注意としては、開弁圧の設定が、極めて繊細です。開弁圧が1.5Nを超えたならば、樹脂は殆ど射出されなくなってきてしまいます。もし、開弁圧が0.5Nを下回ったならば、今度はタレを止める効果があまりなくなってしまいます。さらに、3つの工具による穴あけ加工の芯が0.1mmでもズレていれば、やはり融けた樹脂をタレルことを止めることに失敗するでしょう。また、空けた穴はリーマーと研磨液で注意深く鏡面のように仕上げることで、流量が改善します。<br />
<br />
以上のように、精密な研削を経て、筆者はPLA樹脂、レイヤ高さ0.2mm、0,4mm口径のノズルを使い、200℃で80mm/secを達成しました。通常のカルテジアン型のマシンでこのスピードであれば、十分と言えるでしょう。デルタ型では、ちょっとスピードを落としたほうがいいかもしれません。<br />
<br />
購入するにあたっては、信頼できる加工屋さんを選定できなければ、単に時間を失うだけになることは明らかですので、気をつけましょう。<br />
<br />
== どうやって手に入れるの? ==<br />
まだ、商業的にこの製品を作っている人はいません。DIYで作る場合には、下記のツールを用意しましょう:<br />
*ボール盤<br />
*2mm ドリル<br />
*3mm ドリル<br />
*2mm リーマ<br />
*3mm リーマ<br />
*2.5mm ボール型リューターハイスビット<br />
<br />
手近なストアや通販から、下記のものを用意しましょう。<br />
*2.5mm ボール<br />
*バネ (L = 4mm, 巻数5くらい, 外径=2.6mmくらい, バネ定数2N/mmくらい)<br />
*M6 真鍮袋ナット<br />
*M6 寸切 (L = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ボール<br />
<br />
<br />
== 動画 ==<br />
下記の動画を見れば、実際に射出を行い、リトラクトし、樹脂がタレて出てこないことを確認できます。材料はPLAで、リトラクトは3mm程度、ホットエンド温度は200℃です。40cmのボーデンケーブルを使っており、ダイレクト・マウント型ではリトラクトはもっと少なくて済むでしょう。<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
<br />
== 扱いとメンテナンスにおける注意 ==<br />
たまにノズルが詰まったときに、No Ooze Nozzleは、先っぽの部分だけ外したいことがあります。また、ノズルを交換したいことがあるともいますが、そのときは全体を外したくなると思います。しかし、狙った方を外せないことが多々あるので、そのときのコツを書いておきます。<br />
<br />
まず、レンチと水に浸したスポンジを用意してください。そして、樹脂の融点までホットエンドの温度を上げましょう。<br />
* 先端の袋ナットだけを外したい場合、ヒーターブロックを水で冷やして、すぐにナットを緩めましょう。<br />
* 全体を交換したい場合、ノズルの先っちょを水で冷やして、すぐにナットを緩めましょう。<br />
<br />
ヒント:冷やした側が、ネジがきつくなります。温かい側が、ネジがゆるくなります。これは冷やすとメネジが小さくなり、密着がよくなるのと、間に入り込んだ樹脂が固まるからです。</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178313No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-19T08:03:02Z<p>Quenta: /* Notice */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end. By having this ball-valve gate, oozing can be nearly totally stopped.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
====Dual Extrusion Ooze Countermeasures====<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
Another bad thing is, because of the significant weight of the toolchanger for dual extrusion, once you modify your machine to dual extrusion, it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
All in all '''with dual extrusion you are likely to waste a lot of material and time'''. <br />
<br />
==No More ****!!==<br />
With the No Ooze Nozzle, you will no more need to mess with these countermeasures:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. <br />
<br />
The adjustment of the opening force of the valve is REALLY crucial. If it had exceeded 1.5N, you will likely get hardly any plastic flowing. If you have less than 0.5N, it will start oozing. Machining of inconsistent center of 0.1 mm is enough for leaking. These are because molten plastics have very low surface tension. So the barrel & the nut must be very carefully machined, and polished for fewer flow resistance. <br />
<br />
Had cleared all the precision requirements, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height with the temperature of 200 degrees Celsius and a 0.4 diameter nozzle with PLA.<br />
<br />
It is recommended that you do not waste your time by sourcing it from an unreliable manufacturer.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 2N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees, and a bowden cable of 40cm was used. Fewer retraction will be needed for direct mount extruders.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Handling & Maintenance ==<br />
Sometimes when the nozzle is clogged, you want to unscrew only the acorn nut for maintenance, but the whole assembly comes off the hotend. Or, vise verse, sometimes you want to unscrew the whole assembly for replacement, but only the acorn nut comes off the hotend.<br />
<br />
To unscrew the part where you want, first prepare a wet sponge, and then raise the temperature of the hotend to the relevant melting temperature. Then,<br />
* to unscrew only the acorn nut, touch the heater block with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
* to unscrew the whole assembly, touch the end of the nozzle with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
<br />
Hint: the cooled side is tight, and the hot side is loose. This is for thermal expansion and the stickiness of the plastic.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178312No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-19T07:52:55Z<p>Quenta: /* Notice */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end. By having this ball-valve gate, oozing can be nearly totally stopped.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
====Dual Extrusion Ooze Countermeasures====<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
Another bad thing is, because of the significant weight of the toolchanger for dual extrusion, once you modify your machine to dual extrusion, it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
All in all '''with dual extrusion you are likely to waste a lot of material and time'''. <br />
<br />
==No More ****!!==<br />
With the No Ooze Nozzle, you will no more need to mess with these countermeasures:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. The adjustment of the opening force of the valve is REALLY crucial. If it had exceeded 1.5N, you will likely get no plastic flowing. If you have less than 0.5N, it will start oozing. Machining of inconsistent center of 0.1 mm is enough for leaking. So the barrel & the nut must be very carefully machined, and polished for fewer flow resistance. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 2N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees, and a bowden cable of 40cm was used. Fewer retraction will be needed for direct mount extruders.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Handling & Maintenance ==<br />
Sometimes when the nozzle is clogged, you want to unscrew only the acorn nut for maintenance, but the whole assembly comes off the hotend. Or, vise verse, sometimes you want to unscrew the whole assembly for replacement, but only the acorn nut comes off the hotend.<br />
<br />
To unscrew the part where you want, first prepare a wet sponge, and then raise the temperature of the hotend to the relevant melting temperature. Then,<br />
* to unscrew only the acorn nut, touch the heater block with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
* to unscrew the whole assembly, touch the end of the nozzle with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
<br />
Hint: the cooled side is tight, and the hot side is loose. This is for thermal expansion and the stickiness of the plastic.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178311No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-19T04:13:50Z<p>Quenta: /* How to get it */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end. By having this ball-valve gate, oozing can be nearly totally stopped.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
====Dual Extrusion Ooze Countermeasures====<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
Another bad thing is, because of the significant weight of the toolchanger for dual extrusion, once you modify your machine to dual extrusion, it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
All in all '''with dual extrusion you are likely to waste a lot of material and time'''. <br />
<br />
==No More ****!!==<br />
With the No Ooze Nozzle, you will no more need to mess with these countermeasures:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 2N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees, and a bowden cable of 40cm was used. Fewer retraction will be needed for direct mount extruders.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Handling & Maintenance ==<br />
Sometimes when the nozzle is clogged, you want to unscrew only the acorn nut for maintenance, but the whole assembly comes off the hotend. Or, vise verse, sometimes you want to unscrew the whole assembly for replacement, but only the acorn nut comes off the hotend.<br />
<br />
To unscrew the part where you want, first prepare a wet sponge, and then raise the temperature of the hotend to the relevant melting temperature. Then,<br />
* to unscrew only the acorn nut, touch the heater block with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
* to unscrew the whole assembly, touch the end of the nozzle with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
<br />
Hint: the cooled side is tight, and the hot side is loose. This is for thermal expansion and the stickiness of the plastic.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle/ja&diff=178310No Ooze Nozzle/ja2017-02-19T04:13:08Z<p>Quenta: Created page with "{{Languages}} {{Development |name = No Ooze Nozzle |status = prototype |image = No_ooze_photo.jpg |description = nozzle end to stop ooze |license = GPL |author = Quenta |r..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== 概要と背景 ==<br />
No Ooze Nozzle は、内部に機械式の弁を仕込んだホットエンドノズルです。コールドエンド側からフィラメントを圧送すると、弁が開いて、リトラクトすると弁が閉まって、ノズルからのタレをほぼ完全に抑制できます。<br />
<br />
このタレの問題はどのFDM 3Dプリンターであっても共通の問題です。お使いのマシンが1射出型の場合には、タレはちょっと鬱陶しいくらいですが、2射出以上においてはタレた樹脂がワークに接触、仕上がりが荒れてしまいます。また、タレた後の始動時には射出不足・不良が起き、欠陥もたくさん発生します。<br />
<br />
====2射出の問題と対策====<br />
この問題に対し、ハードウェアとソフトウェアの両方から様々な対策が取られていますが、それらは非常に煩わしいものです。<br />
<br />
ひとつの手法として、遊休ノズルをプリント位置から退避させる機構が実用化されています。しかし、タレそのものは改善されるわけではないので、重量増の割には芳しい結果を得ることができません。ソフトウェア側の対策も、依然、必要です。<br />
<br />
もうひとつの手法として、[[Diamond Hotend]] や E3D Cyclobsのような、2素材を1つのノズルから射出する方式があります。しかし、これはノズル内部で樹脂が混ざってしまうため、結局プライム・ピラーというソフトウェア側の対策が必要です。<br />
<br />
また、遊休ノズルの温度を下げることも有効です。しかし、温度が下がるまではタレが発生しますし、再始動時の加熱に時間がかかるなど、やはり問題は残ります。<br />
<br />
ソフトウェア側の対策としては、Ooze Shield と呼ばれる、ヨダレかけのような壁を造形物の周りに建設する方法、Prime Pillarと呼ばれる、段替後の射出不足・不良を解消する柱のようなものを余ったスペースにプリントする対策があります。しかし、いずれも造形時間が増える上、材料も無駄になります。さらに、Ooze Shield に関しては、プリントする物体によってはうまく建設することも難しくなり、形状の制約がでてきてしまいます。<br />
<br />
そして、さらに残念なことに、2射出に改造したあなたのマシンは、段替え機構の重量が増えたことにより重たく、遅くなり、1射出として使うときも造形スピードを落とさざるを得なくなります。<br />
<br />
以上のことから、結局、これまでの2射出は、あまり実用的なものとは言えませんでした。<br />
<br />
<br />
==もう、面倒なことはやめましょう==<br />
このNo Ooze Nozzleがあれば、以下のものをすべてやめ、単に1射出の機構を2つにするだけで、実用的な2射出を作ることができます。<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* 段替え時特有のリトラクト<br />
* 遊休ノズルの冷却<br />
* 段替機構<br />
<br />
<br />
== 見た目 ==<br />
No ooze nozzle は、たった4点の小さな部品で構成され、実質的な重量増は0で、劇的な改善を達成します。下記はMakerbot Replicator などとも互換の、一般的な実用例です。<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | カットモデル<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | 4つの部品<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | アッセンブリ<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== 仕組み ==<br />
仕組みはとてもシンプル。コールドエンド側から圧力がかかったときに弁が開き、リトラクトすると閉まります。なお、残圧でも弁は開くため、リトラクトが多少は必要です。<br />
<br />
== 注意 ==<br />
ちょっとした欠点として、このNo Ooze Nozzleは、弁を開くために、少し高い圧力が必要となります。また、内部のボールとバネがどうしてもプラスチックの流れの妨げとなります。ハイパワーなEモーターを使うことはもちろん、それを減速してトルクを増幅することが推奨されます。参考値として、筆者はPLA樹脂、レイヤ高さ0.2mm、0,4mm口径のノズルを使い、200℃で80mm/secを達成しています。通常のカルテジアン型のマシンでこのスピードを出すことは珍しいでしょう。デルタ型では、ちょっとスピードを落としたほうがいいかもしれません。<br />
<br />
== どうやって手に入れるの? ==<br />
まだ、商業的にこの製品を作っている人はいません。DIYで作る場合には、下記のツールを用意しましょう:<br />
*ボール盤<br />
*2mm ドリル<br />
*3mm ドリル<br />
*2mm リーマ<br />
*3mm リーマ<br />
*2.5mm ボール型リューターハイスビット<br />
<br />
手近なストアや通販から、下記のものを用意しましょう。<br />
*2.5mm ボール<br />
*バネ (L = 4mm, 巻数5くらい, 外径=2.6mmくらい, バネ定数2N/mmくらい)<br />
*M6 真鍮袋ナット<br />
*M6 寸切 (L = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ボール<br />
<br />
<br />
== 動画 ==<br />
下記の動画を見れば、実際に射出を行い、リトラクトし、樹脂がタレて出てこないことを確認できます。材料はPLAで、リトラクトは3mm程度、ホットエンド温度は200℃です。40cmのボーデンケーブルを使っており、ダイレクト・マウント型ではリトラクトはもっと少なくて済むでしょう。<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
<br />
== 扱いとメンテナンスにおける注意 ==<br />
たまにノズルが詰まったときに、No Ooze Nozzleは、先っぽの部分だけ外したいことがあります。また、ノズルを交換したいことがあるともいますが、そのときは全体を外したくなると思います。しかし、狙った方を外せないことが多々あるので、そのときのコツを書いておきます。<br />
<br />
まず、レンチと水に浸したスポンジを用意してください。そして、樹脂の融点までホットエンドの温度を上げましょう。<br />
* 先端の袋ナットだけを外したい場合、ヒーターブロックを水で冷やして、すぐにナットを緩めましょう。<br />
* 全体を交換したい場合、ノズルの先っちょを水で冷やして、すぐにナットを緩めましょう。<br />
<br />
ヒント:冷やした側が、ネジがきつくなります。温かい側が、ネジがゆるくなります。これは冷やすとメネジが小さくなり、密着がよくなるのと、間に入り込んだ樹脂が固まるからです。</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178309No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-19T01:48:39Z<p>Quenta: /* How to get it */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end. By having this ball-valve gate, oozing can be nearly totally stopped.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
====Dual Extrusion Ooze Countermeasures====<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
Another bad thing is, because of the significant weight of the toolchanger for dual extrusion, once you modify your machine to dual extrusion, it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
All in all '''with dual extrusion you are likely to waste a lot of material and time'''. <br />
<br />
==No More ****!!==<br />
With the No Ooze Nozzle, you will no more need to mess with these countermeasures:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 2N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees, and a bowden cable of 40cm was used. Fewer retraction will be needed for direct mount extruders.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Handling & Maintenance ==<br />
Sometimes when the nozzle is clogged, you want to unscrew only the acorn nut for maintenance, but the whole assembly comes off the hotend. Or, vise verse, sometimes you want to unscrew the whole assembly for replacement, but only the acorn nut comes off the hotend.<br />
<br />
To unscrew the part where you want, first prepare a wet sponge, and then raise the temperature of the hotend to the relevant melting temperature. Then,<br />
* to unscrew only the acorn nut, touch the heater block with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
* to unscrew the whole assembly, touch the end of the nozzle with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
<br />
Hint: the cooled side is tight, and the hot side is loose. This is for thermal expansion and the stickiness of the plastic.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178308No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-19T01:42:28Z<p>Quenta: /* Video */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end. By having this ball-valve gate, oozing can be nearly totally stopped.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
====Dual Extrusion Ooze Countermeasures====<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
Another bad thing is, because of the significant weight of the toolchanger for dual extrusion, once you modify your machine to dual extrusion, it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
All in all '''with dual extrusion you are likely to waste a lot of material and time'''. <br />
<br />
==No More ****!!==<br />
With the No Ooze Nozzle, you will no more need to mess with these countermeasures:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees, and a bowden cable of 40cm was used. Fewer retraction will be needed for direct mount extruders.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Handling & Maintenance ==<br />
Sometimes when the nozzle is clogged, you want to unscrew only the acorn nut for maintenance, but the whole assembly comes off the hotend. Or, vise verse, sometimes you want to unscrew the whole assembly for replacement, but only the acorn nut comes off the hotend.<br />
<br />
To unscrew the part where you want, first prepare a wet sponge, and then raise the temperature of the hotend to the relevant melting temperature. Then,<br />
* to unscrew only the acorn nut, touch the heater block with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
* to unscrew the whole assembly, touch the end of the nozzle with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
<br />
Hint: the cooled side is tight, and the hot side is loose. This is for thermal expansion and the stickiness of the plastic.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User:Quenta&diff=178305User:Quenta2017-02-18T16:40:11Z<p>Quenta: Created page with "Quenta is an ordinary resident based in earth. =Contributions= *No Ooze Nozzle"</p>
<hr />
<div>Quenta is an ordinary resident based in earth.<br />
<br />
=Contributions=<br />
*[[No Ooze Nozzle]]</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178304No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T16:16:10Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = prototype<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
|reprap = <br />
|version = 1.0<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end. By having this ball-valve gate, oozing can be nearly totally stopped.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
====Dual Extrusion Ooze Countermeasures====<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
Another bad thing is, because of the significant weight of the toolchanger for dual extrusion, once you modify your machine to dual extrusion, it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
All in all '''with dual extrusion you are likely to waste a lot of material and time'''. <br />
<br />
==No More ****!!==<br />
With the No Ooze Nozzle, you will no more need to mess with these countermeasures:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Handling & Maintenance ==<br />
Sometimes when the nozzle is clogged, you want to unscrew only the acorn nut for maintenance, but the whole assembly comes off the hotend. Or, vise verse, sometimes you want to unscrew the whole assembly for replacement, but only the acorn nut comes off the hotend.<br />
<br />
To unscrew the part where you want, first prepare a wet sponge, and then raise the temperature of the hotend to the relevant melting temperature. Then,<br />
* to unscrew only the acorn nut, touch the heater block with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
* to unscrew the whole assembly, touch the end of the nozzle with the sponge and cool it, then unscrew the acorn nut.<br />
<br />
Hint: the cooled side is tight, and the hot side is loose. This is for thermal expansion and the stickiness of the plastic.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178303No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T15:26:11Z<p>Quenta: /* Availability */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger. It will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== How to get it ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash></div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178302No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T15:18:13Z<p>Quenta: /* Availability */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger. It will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*drilling machine<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash></div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178301No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T15:16:42Z<p>Quenta: /* Video */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger. It will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*boor-bank<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The video is a demonstration of the nozzle extruding PLA, and then retracting about 3mm. The temperature of the hotend is kept at 200 degrees.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">204679648</videoflash></div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178293No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T09:37:47Z<p>Quenta: Quenta moved page RepRapWiki:No Ooze Nozzle to No Ooze Nozzle</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger. It will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*boor-bank<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRap:No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178294RepRap:No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T09:37:47Z<p>Quenta: Quenta moved page RepRapWiki:No Ooze Nozzle to No Ooze Nozzle</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[No Ooze Nozzle]]</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_ooze_nozzle&diff=178292No ooze nozzle2017-02-18T09:36:13Z<p>Quenta: Quenta moved page No ooze nozzle to RepRapWiki:No Ooze Nozzle: capitals applied for the name</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[RepRapWiki:No Ooze Nozzle]]</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178291No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T09:36:11Z<p>Quenta: Quenta moved page No ooze nozzle to RepRapWiki:No Ooze Nozzle: capitals applied for the name</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger. It will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*boor-bank<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178283No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T07:27:39Z<p>Quenta: /* Introduction */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, but it's a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger. It will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*boor-bank<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178282No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T07:26:40Z<p>Quenta: /* Availability */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, it is a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger. It will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*boor-bank<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router bit<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178281No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T07:24:09Z<p>Quenta: /* How it Looks */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, it is a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger. It will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle has a lean structure which comprise only 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*boor-bank<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router end<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178277No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T07:20:16Z<p>Quenta: /* Notice */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, it is a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger. It will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle comprise 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2mm layer height and 0.4 diameter nozzle.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*boor-bank<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router end<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178268No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T07:09:05Z<p>Quenta: /* Introduction */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, it is a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger. It will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed, too.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle comprise 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2 layer height with the example design.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*boor-bank<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router end<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178266No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T07:05:33Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, it is a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle comprise 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2 layer height with the example design.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
It is not yet commercially available. You will (typically) need the following tools to machine out a no ooze nozzle:<br />
*boor-bank<br />
*2mm drill<br />
*3mm drill<br />
*2mm reamer<br />
*3mm reamer<br />
*2.5mm ball-end cutting router end<br />
<br />
Purchase these BOM items from your locally available stores.<br />
*2.5mm ball<br />
*spring (length = 4, 5coils, OD=2.6mm, 1N/mm)<br />
*M6 acorn nut<br />
*M6 plain screw, (length = 13mm)<br />
*2.5mm ball router cutting bit<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178253No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T04:29:29Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a universal problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Not only is it just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, it is a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase on your hotend caused by the toolchanger will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
So it's best if you could simply stop the nozzle from oozing, and the no ooze nozzle is what you want. This attempts to eliminate the following:<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle comprise 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2 layer height with the example design.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
The store is recently under preparation. If you so desperately need one you could maybe contact the author with a PM.<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178252No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T04:13:38Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Set aside that it is just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, it is a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle comprise 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2 layer height with the example design.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
The store is recently under preparation.<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178251No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T04:07:29Z<p>Quenta: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}<br />
}}<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Set aside that it is just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, it is a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed.<br />
<br />
==No More==<br />
<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like a servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle comprise 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and open when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does leave the valve open. The opening force of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring are also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. With PLA, the author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2 layer height with the example design.<br />
<br />
== Availability ==<br />
The store is recently under preparation.<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
The demonstration video is recently under preparation.</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=No_Ooze_Nozzle&diff=178250No Ooze Nozzle2017-02-18T03:44:08Z<p>Quenta: Created page with "{{Languages}} {{Development |name = No Ooze Nozzle |image = No_ooze_photo.jpg |description = nozzle end to stop ooze |license = GPL |author = Quenta ||categories = {{tag|e..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = No Ooze Nozzle<br />
|image = No_ooze_photo.jpg<br />
|description = nozzle end to stop ooze<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Quenta<br />
||categories = {{tag|extruders}} , {{tag | Hot End}}<br />
}}<!-- notice how the first paragraph is right behind the template, no newline in between. This is required to have the first line of text to the left aligned vertically (top boundary) with the Development box to the right. --><br />
<br />
{{Note|The page/device is experimental.|The device may future become available for experimental/commercial use.}}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
The No-ooze-nozzle is a hotend with a mechanical valve, which opens only when there is pressure from the extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
Oozing is a problem of FDM 3D printers, which perhaps all users experience. Set aside that it is just a little annoying for single extrusion machines, it is a critical problem for dual (or more) extrusion machine. The oozed plastics mess the model, and demands the use of intricate countermeasures. Countermeasures means both hardware & software countermeasures.<br />
<br />
One hardware countermeasure is the one that shift the nozzle from the printing position so that the ooze doesn't touch the model. However it's a hefty load for your hotend and neither does it stop the nozzle from oozing, so you still need the prime pillar or the ooze shield.<br />
<br />
Another measure is to have one nozzle to extrude multiple filaments, like the [[Diamond Hotend]] or the E3D Cyclobs. However because the plastics mix in the barrel, you still need software countermeasure, namely a prime pillar.<br />
<br />
You could also cool down the idle hotend, but it doesn't totally prevent oozing, and it takes time to reheat when printing again.<br />
<br />
So with dual extrusion you are likely to waste materials and time anyways. Another shortcoming is, the significant weight increase will result slower speed, so it's likely that you'll also have to compromise your single-extrusion speed.<br />
<br />
==No More...==<br />
<br />
* ooze shield<br />
* prime pillar<br />
* tool change retraction<br />
* cooling the idle hotend<br />
* tool changer (like servo)<br />
<br />
== How it Looks ==<br />
The No ooze nozzle comprise 4 components. Below is a Makerbot hotend nozzle compatible design example.<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=3><br />
File:No_ooze_nozzle.png | a cut model<br />
File:No_ooze_photo.jpg | components<br />
File:No_ooze_assy.jpg | assembled parts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== How it Works ==<br />
The gimmick is simple. the nozzle is closed when there is no pressure, and opens when there is. Note that some retraction is needed, as residual pressure does open the valve. The opening pressure of the ball valve is adjusted to about 1N force.<br />
<br />
== Notice ==<br />
The shortcoming of this nozzle is that you will need some higher pressure to jerk the valve open, relative to normal hotend nozzle. The valve & the spring is also obstacles of the plastics flow. High power geared extruder motors are recommended. The author has attained 80mm/sec at 0.2 layer height with the example design.<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
<br />
For Youtube you use the following format, you get the video's address by looking at the video in youtube, you need the part between the "=" and the "&" so this video has the address "youtube.com/watch?v='''2FU0v-3gloo'''&feature=player_embedded", you need the bold part. Get it?<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">Hl4Gf5R4YJg</videoflash></div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:No_ooze_assy.jpg&diff=178222File:No ooze assy.jpg2017-02-17T19:27:20Z<p>Quenta: photo of assembled no-ooze-nozzle</p>
<hr />
<div>photo of assembled no-ooze-nozzle</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:No_ooze_photo.jpg&diff=178221File:No ooze photo.jpg2017-02-17T19:21:12Z<p>Quenta: photo of parts of no ooze nozzle</p>
<hr />
<div>photo of parts of no ooze nozzle</div>Quentahttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:No_ooze_nozzle.png&diff=178217File:No ooze nozzle.png2017-02-17T18:14:51Z<p>Quenta: a cut model of a no-ooze-nozzle</p>
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<div>a cut model of a no-ooze-nozzle</div>Quenta