https://reprap.org/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Prusajr&feedformat=atomRepRap - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T13:15:15ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.30.0https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_i3&diff=175635Prusa i32016-06-12T21:18:01Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Prusa i3}}<br />
[[Category:Prusa i3| ]]<br />
{{RepRapNavigation|name=Prusa i3}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa i3<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Prusai3-metalframe.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa i3 is a design by Josef Prusa.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr<br />
|reprap = Prusa i3<br />
|categories =<br />
[[:Category:Prusa i3|Prusa i3]],<br />
{{tag|Prusa i3 Development}},<br />
{{tag|Prusa Mendel Development}},<br />
{{tag|Prusa Mendel}},<br />
{{tag|Mendel Variations}},<br />
{{tag|Cartesian-XZ-head}}<br />
|url = [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla Github]<br />
}}The Prusa i3 (iteration 3) precedes a third iteration (i3) MK2 which can be found here: [[Prusa i3 MK2]]. The i3 incorporates lessons learned from the previous two Prusa designs, as well as other popular modern RepRap designs.<br />
See also [[Prusa Mendel (iteration 2)]].<br />
<br />
{{Note | Derivates | The Prusa i3 is a very popular design, which led to many people creating derivates. We list these derivates in [[:Category: Prusa i3 Derivate]]. Also check [http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Variants the Prusa i3 Variants page], as well as [http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Prusa_i3_Development the Prusa i3 Development page]}}<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
==Specifications==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! scope="col"|&nbsp;<br />
! scope="col"|Single Sheet Frame<br />
! scope="col"|Box Frame<br />
|-<br />
! scope="row"|Plastic Parts (exc. Extruder)<br />
|26<br />
|29<br />
|-<br />
! scope="row"|Non Printed Parts (approx.)<br />
|337<br />
|293<br />
|-<br />
! scope="row"|Cost (USD)<br />
|$300-1000<br />
|$300-$800<br />
|-<br />
! scope="row"|Controller Electronics<br />
|Almost all RepRap<br />
|Almost all RepRap<br />
|-<br />
! scope="row"|Printing Size (mm)<br />
|200 x 200 x 200<br />
|200 x 200 x 270<br />
|-<br />
! scope="row"|Motors<br />
|5 x [[NEMA 17]] Stepper<br />
|5 x [[NEMA 17]] Stepper<br />
|-<br />
! scope="row"|Frame Material<br />
|6mm Aluminium, Wood<br />
|12mm Wood<br />
|-<br />
! scope="row"|Frame Manufacture<br />
|Laser Cutter, CNC, Water Jet<br />
|Basic Woodwork Tools<br />
|-<br />
! scope="row"|Pro<br />
|Easy assembly<br />
|Rigid XZ to Y Connection<br />
|-<br />
! scope="row"|Con<br />
|Specialised Tools<br />
|Looks less professional?<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Main improvements==<br />
The following is a list of the main improvements made upon the Prusa Mendel Iteration 2<br />
<br />
* Enhanced frame rigidity (prevents x-axis backlash)<br />
* Easy assembly<br />
* Parametric files for multiple sizes/bearings or bushings<br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3.<br />
<br />
== History ==<br />
<br />
=== Prusa i2 (November 2011) ===<br />
<br />
On 11-11-11, the [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel Prusa i2] is [http://blog.reprap.org/2011/11/prusa-iteration-2.html announced on the reprap blog].<br />
<br />
=== Prusa i3 (May 2012) ===<br />
<br />
The [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/commit/d3618a65684dae11b45e364b28529af3ea1782e5 first commit] to the Prusa3 GitHub repository.<br />
<br />
=== "Final refactoring complete" (September 3 2012) ===<br />
<br />
Josef Prusa: "[https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/commit/e6b2166c14e240d841483d0f21b6b062177efbb0 Final refactoring complete]."<br />
<br />
There were many commits the following months, evidencing the continuous development process.<br />
<br />
The rate of commits dropped rapidly after August 2013.<br />
<br />
However, that is not the end of the Prusa i3 development. See [http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Prusa_i3_Development the Prusa i3 Development page here].<br />
<br />
=== Original development moved to Vanilla (January 2014) ===<br />
<br />
Prusa moved the original development to "[https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla vanilla repository]" on Github in January of 2014.<br />
<br />
=== Offical kit available (May 2015)===<br />
<br />
In May 2015, the official kit became [http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-kit-with-lcd.html available from Prusa].<br />
<br />
== Variants ==<br />
''Main article: [[Prusa_i3_Variants|Prusa i3 Variants]]''<br />
<br />
The release of the Prusa i3 under the [[GPL]] license and numerous other factors (its low cost, minimal [[BOM]], simple assembly and calibration procedures, more than adequate documentation, etc) have encouraged the further development of a growing number of Prusa i3 "variants" worldwide, with different parts, different materials and different assembly processes, but which altogether adhere to the general looks, component assembly, dimensions and functionality of the original Prusa i3.<br />
<br />
See the page [[Prusa_i3_Variants]] for an attempt to list the Prusa i3 Open Source variants along with their differences / improvements and "genetic lineage". Also check out the [[:Category: Prusa i3 Derivate]] page which lists using the wiki tagging feature.<br />
<br />
== Printed Parts ==<br />
<br />
[[OpenSCAD]] files for the printed parts are available on the [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3 Github repository].<br />
<br />
To compile the parts and render [[STL]] files, copy <code>configuration.scad.dist</code>[https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/blob/master/box_frame/configuration.scad.dist] to <code>configuration.scad</code>, and customize by editing values.<br />
<br />
Precompiled STL files to make the printer can be found at [[Clone_wars:_Prusa_iteraci%C3%B3n_3|the Clone Wars page for the i3]], and here zipped up: [[file:clonewars.zip]].<ref>Please note that the zipped files are not compatible with holes for the Z axis brackets in the Prusa3ALU-*.dxf drawings, at least the ones in the old/ folder in github. Also, the models for Y-axis brackets are for M8 rods. Compiling your own and investigating the Prusa github packages is highly recommended!</ref><br />
<br />
==Frame type==<br />
<br />
Most major Prusa i3 Frame Styles fall into two categories: the Single Sheet Frame, and the Box Style Frame.<br />
<br />
The Single Sheet Frame is designed to be manufactured through the use of a Laser cutter, WaterJet, or CNC Mill / Router Table. There are two current development tracks within the Single Sheet Frame, an Aluminium frame style, and a gusseted Wood frame style. Both are designed to support 6mm or thicker framing material. Both the [http://reprap.org/wiki/JBFromOZ#Single_Plate_Style EiNSTeiN variant] and the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Introduction i3 Rework] designs use single sheet aluminum frames, as do most kits. The Box Style Frame, on the other hand, is designed to be easily manufactured at home with basic woodworking tools. The Y-axis for both frame styles is similar to that of the older Prusa Mendel Iteration 2. <br />
<br />
<br />
===Single Sheet Frame===<br />
<br />
This is a frame created from flat metal sheet, typically Aluminium, but can also be made from other material with a thickness usually between 3mm (0.125 inch) and 6mm (0.25 inch).<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg|thumb|none|alt=Prusa i3 with a single metal sheet style frame.|Prusa i3 with a single metal sheet style frame.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Pro:'''<br />
<br />
* Looks professional (subjective).<br />
<br />
'''Con:'''<br />
<br />
* Requires specialized tools (e.g. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_jet_cutter abrasive water jet cutter], laser cutter, CNC router) or contracting out.<br />
* Less rigid connection between XZ-frame and Y-frame part.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Box Style Frame ===<br />
<br />
This frame is created from 8 small sheets of wood.<br />
<br />
[[File:i3-boxframe.jpg|thumb|none|alt=Prusa i3 with a box style frame|Prusa i3 with a box style frame]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Pro:'''<br />
<br />
* Can be created with standard DIY tools.<br />
* More rigid connection between XZ&ndash;frame and Y&ndash;frame part part.<br />
<br />
'''Con:'''<br />
<br />
* Looks less professional (subjective)<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Stepper Motors===<br />
<br />
The Prusa i3 uses, including the extruder, 5 NEMA17 stepper motors. Two of these motors, the Z axis motors, are connected to the same stepper driver of the electronics. If using Wade's Extruder, its stepper motor needs a minimum holding torque of 40Ncm (0.4Nm). More information can be found on the [[Stepper Motor]] page.<br />
<br />
===Controller Electronics===<br />
<br />
About any RepRap controller works for the Prusa i3. Required features: 4 stepper drivers, 1 thermistor input and 1 heater output for the extruder and optionally another thermistor/heater pair for the heated bed. Choosing the best one for your printer is mostly a matter of taste. For comparisons, see [[List of electronics]], [[Comparison of Electronics]] and [[Alternative Electronics]].<br />
<br />
===Extruder===<br />
<br />
[[Extruder]]<br />
<br />
On November 12th, 2012 Josef Prusa (@josefprusa) tweeted a picture of his metal frame i3 with a custom dual extruder mounted.<br />
<br />
[[File:prusai3dual.jpg|thumb|none|alt=Prusa i3 with an unnamed dual extruder mounted.|Prusa i3 with an unnamed dual extruder mounted.]]<br />
<br />
Previous posts on Prusa's twitter feed reveal that Sound (Slic3r's Developer) inspired Prusa to attach a dual extruder.<br />
<br />
In may 2015 was published the [[&makers]] single direct drive extruder named [[&struder]], was designed to use on [[Wood multitool]] and now is adapted to use on prusa i3.<br />
<br />
===Heated Bed===<br />
The Prusa i3 includes a [[Heated Bed]] which allows for the use of materials such as [[ABS]] and nylon which can experience significant warping if printing on a cold platform.<br />
<br />
*MK3 heating bed, aluminum plate thickness of 3 mm, uniform heating, fast, back has good heat preservation, high temperature can be heated to 120 degrees<br />
[[File:I3-12.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Filament Holder==<br />
<br />
For Sheet Style, <br />
<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:60720 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:60720]<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:68329 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:68329]<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153792 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153792]<br />
<br />
For Box Style,<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104557 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104557],but I recommend using threaded rod and bearings with this thing, like [http://www.thingiverse.com/make:41414 this]<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111157 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111157]<br />
<br />
==Videos==<br />
*Montando la Prusa Mendel i3 (Spanish) [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-31Zn7wY7jk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-31Zn7wY7jk]<br />
*Aluminium Body i3 (Spanish) [http://reprap.org/wiki/User:OverCraft3D Video montaje completo por capítulos (OverCraft3D)]<br />
*Purchase Link [https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/product/reprap Open Source Prusa 3D Printers]<br />
<br />
==Notes==<br />
{{reflist}}</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User:Prusajr&diff=175634User:Prusajr2016-06-12T19:49:41Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Josef Průša''' '''-proosha-''' is the creator of '''Prusa 3D''' printers. He is actively developing the design. Recently he started selling original Prusa i3 kits worldwide check them out at [http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-kit/ Prusa3d.com] [[File:josefprusa.jpg|right|200px|Josef Prusa at Prusa Research offices]]<br />
<br />
=Contact=<br />
*'''Josef Průša'''<br />
*Prague<br />
*http://josefprusa.cz<br />
*http://prusa3d.com<br />
*'''http://shop.prusa3d.com'''<br />
*iam@josefprusa.cz<br />
<br />
=Contributions=<br />
* [[Prusa Mendel]]<br />
* [[Thermocouple_vs_Thermistor]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Nice People Who Upload Files And Are Quite Keen On Selling You A Set Of Printed Parts]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Josefprusa.jpg&diff=175633File:Josefprusa.jpg2016-06-12T19:47:38Z<p>Prusajr: Josef Prusa in Prusa Research offices inside MK2 printfarm</p>
<hr />
<div>Josef Prusa in Prusa Research offices inside MK2 printfarm</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User:Prusajr&diff=175632User:Prusajr2016-06-12T19:46:47Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Josef Průša''' '''-proosha-''' is the creator of '''Prusa 3D''' printers. He is actively developing the design. Recently he started selling original Prusa i3 kits worldwide check them out at [http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-kit/ Prusa3d.com] [[File:josefprusa.jpg|frame|200px]]<br />
<br />
=Contact=<br />
*'''Josef Průša'''<br />
*Prague<br />
*http://josefprusa.cz<br />
*http://prusa3d.com<br />
*'''http://shop.prusa3d.com'''<br />
*iam@josefprusa.cz<br />
<br />
=Contributions=<br />
* [[Prusa Mendel]]<br />
* [[Thermocouple_vs_Thermistor]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Nice People Who Upload Files And Are Quite Keen On Selling You A Set Of Printed Parts]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Prusai3-MK2.jpg&diff=175631File:Prusai3-MK2.jpg2016-06-12T19:30:18Z<p>Prusajr: Initial upload</p>
<hr />
<div>Initial upload</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_i3_MK2&diff=175630Prusa i3 MK22016-06-12T19:29:41Z<p>Prusajr: Created page with "{{Languages|Prusa i3 MK2}} {{RepRapNavigation|name=Prusa i3 MK2}} {{Development |name = Prusa i3 MK2 |status = working |image = Prusai3-MK2.jpg |descr..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Prusa i3 MK2}}<br />
[[Category:Prusa i3| ]]<br />
{{RepRapNavigation|name=Prusa i3 MK2}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa i3 MK2<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Prusai3-MK2.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa i3 MK2 is a design by Josef Prusa.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr<br />
|reprap = Prusa i3 MK2<br />
|categories =<br />
[[:Category:Prusa i3|Prusa i3]],<br />
{{tag|Prusa i3 Development}},<br />
{{tag|Prusa Mendel Development}},<br />
{{tag|Prusa Mendel}},<br />
{{tag|Mendel Variations}},<br />
{{tag|Cartesian-XZ-head}}<br />
|url = [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla Github]<br />
}}The Prusa i3 (iteration 3) MK2 is the newest and most current 3D Printer design by RepRap Core Developer Prusajr. The i3 MK2 incorporates lessons learned from the previous three Prusa designs.<br />
See also [[Prusa Mendel (iteration 2)]].<br />
<br />
{{Note | Derivates | The Prusa i3 is a very popular design, which led to many people creating derivates. We list these derivates in [[:Category: Prusa i3 Derivate]]. Also check [http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Variants the Prusa i3 Variants page], as well as [http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Prusa_i3_Development the Prusa i3 Development page]}}<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
==Main improvements==<br />
The following is a list of the main improvements made upon the Prusa Mendel Iteration 3<br />
<br />
* Enhanced frame rigidity by conection the Y axis to the PSU cover.<br />
* Easy assembly<br />
* Bigger build area (250x210x200mm)<br />
* Zoned PCB heatbed MK42<br />
* Better Z motors<br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa i3 MK2 is hosted on github: https://github.com/prusa3d/Orignal-Prusa-i3/tree/MK2.<br />
<br />
== History ==<br />
<br />
=== Offical kit available (May 2016)===<br />
<br />
In May 2016, the official kit became [http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.html available from Prusa].<br />
<br />
== Printed Parts ==<br />
<br />
[[OpenSCAD]] files for the printed parts are available on the [https://github.com/prusa3d/Orignal-Prusa-i3/tree/MK2 Github repository].<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Stepper Motors===<br />
<br />
The Prusa i3 MK2 uses, including the extruder, 5 NEMA17 stepper motors. Two of these motors, the Z axis motors, are connected to the same stepper driver of the electronics and have integrated trapezoid leadscrews. <br />
<br />
===Controller Electronics===<br />
<br />
In it's original configuration Prusa i3 MK2 is using RAMBo mini board from Ultimachine.<br />
<br />
===Extruder===<br />
<br />
[[Extruder]]<br />
<br />
Prusa i3 MK2 extruder is designed around E3D V6 hotend.<br />
<br />
===Heated Bed===<br />
The Prusa i3 MK2 was release together with PCB Heatbed MK42.<br />
<br />
==Notes==<br />
{{reflist}}</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg&diff=175629File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg2016-06-12T19:02:44Z<p>Prusajr: Prusajr uploaded a new version of &quot;File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg&quot;: Better picture</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_i3_Build_Manual&diff=148828Prusa i3 Build Manual2015-05-20T01:37:28Z<p>Prusajr: /* Single Sheet Frame Style */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Prusa i3 Build Manual}}<br />
<br />
{{RepRapNavigation|name=Prusa i3}}<br />
<br />
==Single Sheet Frame Style==<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg|400px|thumb|right|]]<br />
<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/8107645350/in/photostream<br><br />
<br />
To reduce confusion, documentation of the EiNSTeiN variant has been moved to here http://reprap.org/wiki/JBFromOZ.<br />
<br />
Official vanilla Prusa i3 build manual by Prusa is available at http://prusa3d.dozuki.com/c/Prusa_i3_kit<br />
<br />
== Materials ==<br />
'''Single plate Version Rods:''' - updated to numbers from https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/blob/master/box_frame/doc/dimensions.md<br />
<br />
'''X Axis;'''<br />
<br />
* 2x 370mm M8 smooth rod<br />
* 1x 20mm M8 smooth (for extruder idler, use 8x20 threaded rod or grub screw instead as substitute)<br />
<br />
'''Y Axis;'''<br />
<br />
* 4x 205mm M8 threaded - Note 210mm for nyloc nuts. If they are cut to exactly the same length will make assembly easier.<br />
* 2x 350mm M8 smooth rod - Note take care to cut to exactly same length.<br />
* 2x 380mm M10 threaded - Note M10 is correct.<br />
<br />
'''Z Axis;'''<br />
<br />
* 2x 320mm M8 smooth rod.<br />
* 2x 300mm M5 threaded (or 320mm if you want it to protrude above the frame).<br />
<br />
Rod Lengths:<br><br />
http://titanpad.com/bU77NESnMC<br><br />
<br><br />
In summary:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! M5 Threaded !! M8 Smooth !! M8 Threaded !! M10 Threaded<br />
|-<br />
| 2 x 300mm || 2 x 370mm|| 4 x 205mm || 2 x 380<br />
|- <br />
| || 1 x 20mm|| || <br />
|- <br />
| || 2 x 350mm|| || <br />
|- <br />
| || 2 x 320mm|| || <br />
|- <br />
|'''600mm'''||'''2100mm'''||'''820mm''' ||'''760mm''' <br />
|}<br />
Note: Last row shows totals for each size/finish<br />
<br />
==Boxed style Frame Style==<br />
[[File:I3-box_frame.png|400px|thumb|right|]]<br />
<br />
In the future this page might contain a tutorial. Until then, a tutorial for the boxed frame style Prusa i3 by Kliment:<br />
<br />
* http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/<br />
<br />
* http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/photos/i3/<br />
* http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/photos/prusa3/<br />
<br />
* http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/8127635345/in/photostream<br />
<br />
=== Rods ===<br />
<br />
note check here for detailed instructions for where these numbers are derived from https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/blob/master/box_frame/doc/dimensions.md<br />
<br />
X Axis;<br />
<br />
* 2x 470mm M8 smooth rod<br />
* 1x 20mm M8 smooth (for extruder idler, use 8x20 threaded rod or grub screw instead as substitute)<br />
<br />
If you want to play with the X length, you will have to cut the top (longest) plate as long as the smooth rod and one of the 450mm is actually (X rod length - 2x plate thickness) long. The rods may be longer, but should not be shorter by more than 1cm <br />
<br />
Y Axis:<br />
<br />
* 2x 370mm M8 smooth rods<br />
* 2x 400mm M10 threaded rod<br />
* <s>2x 400mm M8 threaded rods</s> (M10 is actually correct)<br />
* 4x 205mm M8 threaded rods<br />
<br />
Z Axis:<br />
<br />
* 2x 405mm M8 smooth rod<br />
* 2x ~370mm M5 threaded rod<br />
<br />
You could play with the Z lengths to increase building height.<br><br />
For this you will need longer wood cut for 4 of the 450x100mm plates; The plates are (Z rod length + 45mm) long<br />
<br />
=== Frame ===<br />
<br />
Default is 12mm thick wood. Get something that is strong and not likely to warp (change shape) due to temperature and humidity! The thickness is mostly needed to hold the screws used hold the frame together and to mount parts onto it. The entire frame structure must be stiff, holding its shape regardless of what it's sitting on.<br />
<br />
* 6x 450x100x12mm wood<br />
* 1x 475x100x15mm wood<br />
<br />
Any wood _over_ 12mm thickness will not work for the bottom plate with default config, the Y will then be lifted from the ground.<br><br />
So if you are using thicker wood for the frame, be sure to change board_thickness in configuration.scad before printing parts<br />
<br />
<br />
== Parts to be Purchased ==<br />
===BOM===<br />
There are a number of variants of i3 single plate.<br />
<br />
The original Prusa variant BOM is located at https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aga03tFhujeidDJzR0ZJNFZQYkhXTXlWd1BLRkN4Nmc&usp=sharing<br />
<br />
[[JBFromOZ#Single Plate Style|The JBFromOZ BOM, RP list and build info on his EiNSTeiN variant is here]]<br />
<br />
The current BOM used by BotBuilder.net for their workshops is located here: http://www.botbuilder.net/documentation - Updated Oct. 2013.<br />
<br />
The [[Prusa i3 Buyers Guide#Sourcing Your Own Parts|Sourcing Your Own Parts]] section of the i3 buyer's guide is an attempt to make a comprehensive parts list, with links and info on ordering individual components.<br />
<br />
== Rapid Prototype Parts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<table border = 2><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Description</td><td>Qty</td><td>Image</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>RP Parts</td><td></td><td>located in Prusa/single_plate folder</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>z-axis-top.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/QeLULR6jqhfbZiHGtsVZWN preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Z-axis-top.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>z-axis-bottom.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/ZKnVMghWMS2WC4jJvTo7Ro preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Z-axis-bottom.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-motor.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/MC8oFGT4hn6XUe8ApWE9tc preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:i3-Y-motor.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-idler.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/tuteEzdMGtvNGq7tWWUENS preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Y-idler.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-corners.scad (M10 x 1 M8 x 2 holes)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/6gdnhsjPWedripm58qbWpW preview]</td><td>4</td><td>[[File:I3-Y-corners.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-belt-holder.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/oyCjptmBwUCGj6KpCHYmnc preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Y-belt-holder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>x-end-motor.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/hA5MKicD4s2Wa2GmjcjptR preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-X-end-motor.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>x-end-idler.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/AoSpZKAbJW4QUsgsAEsGRe preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-X-end-idler.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>x-carriage.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/3v9J5mMSnbLZ7Lk8FSZeJP preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-x-carriage.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>magnetic-holder.scad (used for hall effect sensors / endstops)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/QfgTpS9steXLzuRokp2m4c preview]</td><td>2</td><td>[[File:I3-Magnetic-holder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>fan-mount.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/anRTZCtzrTizSLcdiFJGo5 preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Fan-mount.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>belt-guide.scad (suit 623 bearing)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/GY9EKxNhKRAyULQFwPMTR5 preview]</td><td>4</td><td>[[File:I3-Belt-guide.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Extruder options</td><td></td><td>not complete documentation at this stage</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<tr><br />
<td>gregs-wade.scad (in box_frame/extras folder)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/F8d7tQhAfHpkituW3sZFGD preview]<br><br />
</td><br />
<td>1 (???)</td><br />
<td>[[File:I3-Gregs-wade.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<tr><br />
<td>greg-adapter.scad (in mini/extruder/greg-wade folder)</td><td>1 (???)</td><td>[[File:I3-Greg-adapter.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>dual-extruder.scad (deprecated - experimental)</td><td>1 (???)</td><td>[[File:I3-Dual-extruder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>compact-extruder.scad (experimental - likely to be replaced by nema17 extruder)</td><td>1 (???)</td><td>[[File:I3-Compact-extruder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Single-Frame i3</td><td></td><td>Aluminium 6mm plate 370mm x 370mm</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Prusa3ALU-FREZOVANY-v4.dxf</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-DXFPlate.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
</table><br />
<br><br />
Note:<br />
<br><br />
The Prusa3 repository (below) includes frames for both aluminum and laser cut wood (sized for 6mm thick) for both the "single_plate" and "mini" variants. The wood frame files include two gussets, which stabilize the frame from flexing. Photos of each can be found at:<br><br><br />
"single_plate": http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/sets/72157632513929965/with/8378333341/ <br><br />
"mini": http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/sets/72157632518684272/with/8379471692/ <br><br />
<br><br />
The Prusa3ALU-*.dxf and Prusa3WOOD-*.dxf feature y-carriages that use zipties to fasten three LM8UUs to the underside. Prusa3_SC10UU-*.dxf has mount holes for SC10UU [[linear bearing]] blocks. Use whichever carriage fits your need.<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== File Sources ==<br />
===Github ===<br />
* https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3 - Josef Prusa - main development repository - scad file sources only available<br />
* https://github.com/alexrj/Prusa3/tree/i3-unterwelt - Sound MINI repository, MGS extruder repository (files for parts shown above) - scad file sources and stl files available<br />
* https://github.com/EiNSTeiN-/Prusa3/ - EiNSTeiN - 608 bearings, compact dual extruder repository, note that Y ends for M10 not M8 rods - scad file sources only available<br />
* https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla/tree/master/distribution - vanilla - used by josef prusa in his workshops - scad file sources and stl files available <br />
* https://github.com/Joaz/machine_parts/tree/master/mgs_prusa - Joaz - MGS extruder repository (parts not shown above)<br />
* https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=61d9a16368c58a74&id=61D9A16368C58A74!107&ithint=file,.rar&authkey=!AOcaZeSUEgaTCBA - 3D Printer Czar - STLs with improved Y belt holder<br />
<br />
=== STLs: ===<br />
* Einstein stls: singleplate -->>[[:File:Einstein-singleplate-stl.zip]] (generated 19/2/2014) <br />
* Einstein stls: boxframe -->>[[:File:Einstein-boxframe-stl.zip]] (generated 19/2/2014)<br />
* vanilla stls:[[:File:I3vanilla.zip]]<br />
<br />
<br />
NOTE: developers are encouraged to link or post their sources but also printable stl files, currently (19/2/2014) some of the scad files are throwing errors or missing variable names or simply don't generate anything, instructions for generating stl files from scad files are unclear in terms of which ones to use, the above stl zip files may or may not be accurate however it's better than the previous situation,there are more zipped stl files to be done - thejollygrimreaper<br />
<br />
== Other Build Documentation ==<br />
* Acrylic frame build document by 3D Printer Czar: https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=61D9A16368C58A74!113&authkey=!AI2iTJjJC1ZxdG0&ithint=file%2c.pdf<br />
* Single plate build pics: http://www.sub-design.co.uk/i3build/<br />
* Prusa i3 Frame Kit Build Manual by ReprapUniverse.com: http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/femvh8j5njf4sag/prusa_i3_frame_kit_build_manual.pdf <br />
* Build Documentation: http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/<br />
* [http://www.botbuilder.net/documentation BotBuilder.net Workshop Build Documentation - (50 page PDF)]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NixSNAUPciQ Build Videos]<br />
<br />
===Build instructions of singe plate as an interactive animation===<br />
* [[:File:Linux.zip | Build instructions as a Linux binary]<br />
* [http://www.carlos-sanchez.com/Prusa3/ As an online tool] that works in Windows and OSX.<br />
* New Design complete laser cut kit assembly: http://twelvepro.com/news/?page_id=31<br />
<br />
''Notes:'' <br />
* [[JBFromOZ]] - notes preparing to build an aluminium frame prusa i3. EiNSTeiN variant [[JBFromOZ#Build Instructions (With Pictures!)]]<br />
* Prusa i1/i2 smooth rod lengths should be usable for an i3 single-plate reprap.<br />
* Instructions on the github say to RP each part in the single-plate folder. I believe this instruction applies to the box frame version only, some items need more than 1 copy.<br />
<br />
== Extruder Discussion ==<br />
<br />
It is not yet 100% clear which extruder to use, there is a dual extruder and a compact extruder in the branch though neither looks complete.<br />
there is also a Greg's adapter ([[Greg's Hinged Extruder]] ?) in the /mini/extruder/greg-wade folder, it uses the nuts_and_bolts.scad which needs to be copied to the openscad library folder.<br />
<br />
I am planning to use a MGS extruder with a Nema17 stepper, designs from Sound are shown from his i3-unterwelt branch<br><br />
<br />
Build photos from EiNSTieN's build record, including some additional reference to his edits for 608 bearings, GT2 belts, dual extruders etc.<br />
<br />
== Hybridisation/RepStrap ==<br />
<br />
'''Wooden feet''' to replace plastic feet (y-corners.scad (M10 x 1 M8 x 2 holes)?<br />
While waiting to receive an order of printed parts why not build the base using wooden feet?<br />
Question is what amount of vibration will be experienced? If excessive could you use some old (carpet?) padding?<br />
Any ideas?<br />
<br />
[[Category:Prusa i3]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_i3_Build_Manual&diff=148827Prusa i3 Build Manual2015-05-20T01:35:01Z<p>Prusajr: Moved the single frame up, as boxed use is ugly and almost anybody use it.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Prusa i3 Build Manual}}<br />
<br />
{{RepRapNavigation|name=Prusa i3}}<br />
<br />
==Single Sheet Frame Style==<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg|400px|thumb|right|]]<br />
<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/8107645350/in/photostream<br><br />
<br />
To reduce confusion, documentation of the EiNSTeiN variant has been moved to here http://reprap.org/wiki/JBFromOZ.<br />
<br />
Documentation here will only be relevant to the "standard" single plate design. (whatever that actually means)<br />
<br />
== Materials ==<br />
'''Single plate Version Rods:''' - updated to numbers from https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/blob/master/box_frame/doc/dimensions.md<br />
<br />
'''X Axis;'''<br />
<br />
* 2x 370mm M8 smooth rod<br />
* 1x 20mm M8 smooth (for extruder idler, use 8x20 threaded rod or grub screw instead as substitute)<br />
<br />
'''Y Axis;'''<br />
<br />
* 4x 205mm M8 threaded - Note 210mm for nyloc nuts. If they are cut to exactly the same length will make assembly easier.<br />
* 2x 350mm M8 smooth rod - Note take care to cut to exactly same length.<br />
* 2x 380mm M10 threaded - Note M10 is correct.<br />
<br />
'''Z Axis;'''<br />
<br />
* 2x 320mm M8 smooth rod.<br />
* 2x 300mm M5 threaded (or 320mm if you want it to protrude above the frame).<br />
<br />
Rod Lengths:<br><br />
http://titanpad.com/bU77NESnMC<br><br />
<br><br />
In summary:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! M5 Threaded !! M8 Smooth !! M8 Threaded !! M10 Threaded<br />
|-<br />
| 2 x 300mm || 2 x 370mm|| 4 x 205mm || 2 x 380<br />
|- <br />
| || 1 x 20mm|| || <br />
|- <br />
| || 2 x 350mm|| || <br />
|- <br />
| || 2 x 320mm|| || <br />
|- <br />
|'''600mm'''||'''2100mm'''||'''820mm''' ||'''760mm''' <br />
|}<br />
Note: Last row shows totals for each size/finish<br />
<br />
==Boxed style Frame Style==<br />
[[File:I3-box_frame.png|400px|thumb|right|]]<br />
<br />
In the future this page might contain a tutorial. Until then, a tutorial for the boxed frame style Prusa i3 by Kliment:<br />
<br />
* http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/<br />
<br />
* http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/photos/i3/<br />
* http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/photos/prusa3/<br />
<br />
* http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/8127635345/in/photostream<br />
<br />
=== Rods ===<br />
<br />
note check here for detailed instructions for where these numbers are derived from https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/blob/master/box_frame/doc/dimensions.md<br />
<br />
X Axis;<br />
<br />
* 2x 470mm M8 smooth rod<br />
* 1x 20mm M8 smooth (for extruder idler, use 8x20 threaded rod or grub screw instead as substitute)<br />
<br />
If you want to play with the X length, you will have to cut the top (longest) plate as long as the smooth rod and one of the 450mm is actually (X rod length - 2x plate thickness) long. The rods may be longer, but should not be shorter by more than 1cm <br />
<br />
Y Axis:<br />
<br />
* 2x 370mm M8 smooth rods<br />
* 2x 400mm M10 threaded rod<br />
* <s>2x 400mm M8 threaded rods</s> (M10 is actually correct)<br />
* 4x 205mm M8 threaded rods<br />
<br />
Z Axis:<br />
<br />
* 2x 405mm M8 smooth rod<br />
* 2x ~370mm M5 threaded rod<br />
<br />
You could play with the Z lengths to increase building height.<br><br />
For this you will need longer wood cut for 4 of the 450x100mm plates; The plates are (Z rod length + 45mm) long<br />
<br />
=== Frame ===<br />
<br />
Default is 12mm thick wood. Get something that is strong and not likely to warp (change shape) due to temperature and humidity! The thickness is mostly needed to hold the screws used hold the frame together and to mount parts onto it. The entire frame structure must be stiff, holding its shape regardless of what it's sitting on.<br />
<br />
* 6x 450x100x12mm wood<br />
* 1x 475x100x15mm wood<br />
<br />
Any wood _over_ 12mm thickness will not work for the bottom plate with default config, the Y will then be lifted from the ground.<br><br />
So if you are using thicker wood for the frame, be sure to change board_thickness in configuration.scad before printing parts<br />
<br />
<br />
== Parts to be Purchased ==<br />
===BOM===<br />
There are a number of variants of i3 single plate.<br />
<br />
The original Prusa variant BOM is located at https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aga03tFhujeidDJzR0ZJNFZQYkhXTXlWd1BLRkN4Nmc&usp=sharing<br />
<br />
[[JBFromOZ#Single Plate Style|The JBFromOZ BOM, RP list and build info on his EiNSTeiN variant is here]]<br />
<br />
The current BOM used by BotBuilder.net for their workshops is located here: http://www.botbuilder.net/documentation - Updated Oct. 2013.<br />
<br />
The [[Prusa i3 Buyers Guide#Sourcing Your Own Parts|Sourcing Your Own Parts]] section of the i3 buyer's guide is an attempt to make a comprehensive parts list, with links and info on ordering individual components.<br />
<br />
== Rapid Prototype Parts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<table border = 2><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Description</td><td>Qty</td><td>Image</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>RP Parts</td><td></td><td>located in Prusa/single_plate folder</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>z-axis-top.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/QeLULR6jqhfbZiHGtsVZWN preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Z-axis-top.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>z-axis-bottom.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/ZKnVMghWMS2WC4jJvTo7Ro preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Z-axis-bottom.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-motor.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/MC8oFGT4hn6XUe8ApWE9tc preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:i3-Y-motor.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-idler.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/tuteEzdMGtvNGq7tWWUENS preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Y-idler.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-corners.scad (M10 x 1 M8 x 2 holes)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/6gdnhsjPWedripm58qbWpW preview]</td><td>4</td><td>[[File:I3-Y-corners.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-belt-holder.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/oyCjptmBwUCGj6KpCHYmnc preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Y-belt-holder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>x-end-motor.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/hA5MKicD4s2Wa2GmjcjptR preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-X-end-motor.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>x-end-idler.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/AoSpZKAbJW4QUsgsAEsGRe preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-X-end-idler.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>x-carriage.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/3v9J5mMSnbLZ7Lk8FSZeJP preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-x-carriage.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>magnetic-holder.scad (used for hall effect sensors / endstops)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/QfgTpS9steXLzuRokp2m4c preview]</td><td>2</td><td>[[File:I3-Magnetic-holder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>fan-mount.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/anRTZCtzrTizSLcdiFJGo5 preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Fan-mount.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>belt-guide.scad (suit 623 bearing)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/GY9EKxNhKRAyULQFwPMTR5 preview]</td><td>4</td><td>[[File:I3-Belt-guide.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Extruder options</td><td></td><td>not complete documentation at this stage</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<tr><br />
<td>gregs-wade.scad (in box_frame/extras folder)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/F8d7tQhAfHpkituW3sZFGD preview]<br><br />
</td><br />
<td>1 (???)</td><br />
<td>[[File:I3-Gregs-wade.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<tr><br />
<td>greg-adapter.scad (in mini/extruder/greg-wade folder)</td><td>1 (???)</td><td>[[File:I3-Greg-adapter.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>dual-extruder.scad (deprecated - experimental)</td><td>1 (???)</td><td>[[File:I3-Dual-extruder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>compact-extruder.scad (experimental - likely to be replaced by nema17 extruder)</td><td>1 (???)</td><td>[[File:I3-Compact-extruder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Single-Frame i3</td><td></td><td>Aluminium 6mm plate 370mm x 370mm</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Prusa3ALU-FREZOVANY-v4.dxf</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-DXFPlate.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
</table><br />
<br><br />
Note:<br />
<br><br />
The Prusa3 repository (below) includes frames for both aluminum and laser cut wood (sized for 6mm thick) for both the "single_plate" and "mini" variants. The wood frame files include two gussets, which stabilize the frame from flexing. Photos of each can be found at:<br><br><br />
"single_plate": http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/sets/72157632513929965/with/8378333341/ <br><br />
"mini": http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/sets/72157632518684272/with/8379471692/ <br><br />
<br><br />
The Prusa3ALU-*.dxf and Prusa3WOOD-*.dxf feature y-carriages that use zipties to fasten three LM8UUs to the underside. Prusa3_SC10UU-*.dxf has mount holes for SC10UU [[linear bearing]] blocks. Use whichever carriage fits your need.<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== File Sources ==<br />
===Github ===<br />
* https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3 - Josef Prusa - main development repository - scad file sources only available<br />
* https://github.com/alexrj/Prusa3/tree/i3-unterwelt - Sound MINI repository, MGS extruder repository (files for parts shown above) - scad file sources and stl files available<br />
* https://github.com/EiNSTeiN-/Prusa3/ - EiNSTeiN - 608 bearings, compact dual extruder repository, note that Y ends for M10 not M8 rods - scad file sources only available<br />
* https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla/tree/master/distribution - vanilla - used by josef prusa in his workshops - scad file sources and stl files available <br />
* https://github.com/Joaz/machine_parts/tree/master/mgs_prusa - Joaz - MGS extruder repository (parts not shown above)<br />
* https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=61d9a16368c58a74&id=61D9A16368C58A74!107&ithint=file,.rar&authkey=!AOcaZeSUEgaTCBA - 3D Printer Czar - STLs with improved Y belt holder<br />
<br />
=== STLs: ===<br />
* Einstein stls: singleplate -->>[[:File:Einstein-singleplate-stl.zip]] (generated 19/2/2014) <br />
* Einstein stls: boxframe -->>[[:File:Einstein-boxframe-stl.zip]] (generated 19/2/2014)<br />
* vanilla stls:[[:File:I3vanilla.zip]]<br />
<br />
<br />
NOTE: developers are encouraged to link or post their sources but also printable stl files, currently (19/2/2014) some of the scad files are throwing errors or missing variable names or simply don't generate anything, instructions for generating stl files from scad files are unclear in terms of which ones to use, the above stl zip files may or may not be accurate however it's better than the previous situation,there are more zipped stl files to be done - thejollygrimreaper<br />
<br />
== Other Build Documentation ==<br />
* Acrylic frame build document by 3D Printer Czar: https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=61D9A16368C58A74!113&authkey=!AI2iTJjJC1ZxdG0&ithint=file%2c.pdf<br />
* Single plate build pics: http://www.sub-design.co.uk/i3build/<br />
* Prusa i3 Frame Kit Build Manual by ReprapUniverse.com: http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/femvh8j5njf4sag/prusa_i3_frame_kit_build_manual.pdf <br />
* Build Documentation: http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/<br />
* [http://www.botbuilder.net/documentation BotBuilder.net Workshop Build Documentation - (50 page PDF)]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NixSNAUPciQ Build Videos]<br />
<br />
===Build instructions of singe plate as an interactive animation===<br />
* [[:File:Linux.zip | Build instructions as a Linux binary]<br />
* [http://www.carlos-sanchez.com/Prusa3/ As an online tool] that works in Windows and OSX.<br />
* New Design complete laser cut kit assembly: http://twelvepro.com/news/?page_id=31<br />
<br />
''Notes:'' <br />
* [[JBFromOZ]] - notes preparing to build an aluminium frame prusa i3. EiNSTeiN variant [[JBFromOZ#Build Instructions (With Pictures!)]]<br />
* Prusa i1/i2 smooth rod lengths should be usable for an i3 single-plate reprap.<br />
* Instructions on the github say to RP each part in the single-plate folder. I believe this instruction applies to the box frame version only, some items need more than 1 copy.<br />
<br />
== Extruder Discussion ==<br />
<br />
It is not yet 100% clear which extruder to use, there is a dual extruder and a compact extruder in the branch though neither looks complete.<br />
there is also a Greg's adapter ([[Greg's Hinged Extruder]] ?) in the /mini/extruder/greg-wade folder, it uses the nuts_and_bolts.scad which needs to be copied to the openscad library folder.<br />
<br />
I am planning to use a MGS extruder with a Nema17 stepper, designs from Sound are shown from his i3-unterwelt branch<br><br />
<br />
Build photos from EiNSTieN's build record, including some additional reference to his edits for 608 bearings, GT2 belts, dual extruders etc.<br />
<br />
== Hybridisation/RepStrap ==<br />
<br />
'''Wooden feet''' to replace plastic feet (y-corners.scad (M10 x 1 M8 x 2 holes)?<br />
While waiting to receive an order of printed parts why not build the base using wooden feet?<br />
Question is what amount of vibration will be experienced? If excessive could you use some old (carpet?) padding?<br />
Any ideas?<br />
<br />
[[Category:Prusa i3]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_i3_Build_Manual&diff=148826Prusa i3 Build Manual2015-05-20T01:29:57Z<p>Prusajr: /* Single Sheet Frame Style */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Prusa i3 Build Manual}}<br />
<br />
{{RepRapNavigation|name=Prusa i3}}<br />
<br />
==Boxed style Frame Style==<br />
[[File:I3-box_frame.png|400px|thumb|right|]]<br />
<br />
In the future this page might contain a tutorial. Until then, a tutorial for the boxed frame style Prusa i3 by Kliment:<br />
<br />
* http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/<br />
<br />
* http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/photos/i3/<br />
* http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/photos/prusa3/<br />
<br />
* http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/8127635345/in/photostream<br />
<br />
=== Rods ===<br />
<br />
note check here for detailed instructions for where these numbers are derived from https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/blob/master/box_frame/doc/dimensions.md<br />
<br />
X Axis;<br />
<br />
* 2x 470mm M8 smooth rod<br />
* 1x 20mm M8 smooth (for extruder idler, use 8x20 threaded rod or grub screw instead as substitute)<br />
<br />
If you want to play with the X length, you will have to cut the top (longest) plate as long as the smooth rod and one of the 450mm is actually (X rod length - 2x plate thickness) long. The rods may be longer, but should not be shorter by more than 1cm <br />
<br />
Y Axis:<br />
<br />
* 2x 370mm M8 smooth rods<br />
* 2x 400mm M10 threaded rod<br />
* <s>2x 400mm M8 threaded rods</s> (M10 is actually correct)<br />
* 4x 205mm M8 threaded rods<br />
<br />
Z Axis:<br />
<br />
* 2x 405mm M8 smooth rod<br />
* 2x ~370mm M5 threaded rod<br />
<br />
You could play with the Z lengths to increase building height.<br><br />
For this you will need longer wood cut for 4 of the 450x100mm plates; The plates are (Z rod length + 45mm) long<br />
<br />
=== Frame ===<br />
<br />
Default is 12mm thick wood. Get something that is strong and not likely to warp (change shape) due to temperature and humidity! The thickness is mostly needed to hold the screws used hold the frame together and to mount parts onto it. The entire frame structure must be stiff, holding its shape regardless of what it's sitting on.<br />
<br />
* 6x 450x100x12mm wood<br />
* 1x 475x100x15mm wood<br />
<br />
Any wood _over_ 12mm thickness will not work for the bottom plate with default config, the Y will then be lifted from the ground.<br><br />
So if you are using thicker wood for the frame, be sure to change board_thickness in configuration.scad before printing parts<br />
<br />
==Single Sheet Frame Style==<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg|400px|thumb|right|]]<br />
<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/8107645350/in/photostream<br><br />
<br />
To reduce confusion, documentation of the EiNSTeiN variant has been moved to here http://reprap.org/wiki/JBFromOZ.<br />
<br />
Documentation here will only be relevant to the "standard" single plate design. (whatever that actually means)<br />
<br />
== Materials ==<br />
'''Single plate Version Rods:''' - updated to numbers from https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/blob/master/box_frame/doc/dimensions.md<br />
<br />
'''X Axis;'''<br />
<br />
* 2x 370mm M8 smooth rod<br />
* 1x 20mm M8 smooth (for extruder idler, use 8x20 threaded rod or grub screw instead as substitute)<br />
<br />
'''Y Axis;'''<br />
<br />
* 4x 205mm M8 threaded - Note 210mm for nyloc nuts. If they are cut to exactly the same length will make assembly easier.<br />
* 2x 350mm M8 smooth rod - Note take care to cut to exactly same length.<br />
* 2x 380mm M10 threaded - Note M10 is correct.<br />
<br />
'''Z Axis;'''<br />
<br />
* 2x 320mm M8 smooth rod.<br />
* 2x 300mm M5 threaded (or 320mm if you want it to protrude above the frame).<br />
<br />
Rod Lengths:<br><br />
http://titanpad.com/bU77NESnMC<br><br />
<br><br />
In summary:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! M5 Threaded !! M8 Smooth !! M8 Threaded !! M10 Threaded<br />
|-<br />
| 2 x 300mm || 2 x 370mm|| 4 x 205mm || 2 x 380<br />
|- <br />
| || 1 x 20mm|| || <br />
|- <br />
| || 2 x 350mm|| || <br />
|- <br />
| || 2 x 320mm|| || <br />
|- <br />
|'''600mm'''||'''2100mm'''||'''820mm''' ||'''760mm''' <br />
|}<br />
Note: Last row shows totals for each size/finish<br />
<br />
== Parts to be Purchased ==<br />
===BOM===<br />
There are a number of variants of i3 single plate.<br />
<br />
The original Prusa variant BOM is located at https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aga03tFhujeidDJzR0ZJNFZQYkhXTXlWd1BLRkN4Nmc&usp=sharing<br />
<br />
[[JBFromOZ#Single Plate Style|The JBFromOZ BOM, RP list and build info on his EiNSTeiN variant is here]]<br />
<br />
The current BOM used by BotBuilder.net for their workshops is located here: http://www.botbuilder.net/documentation - Updated Oct. 2013.<br />
<br />
The [[Prusa i3 Buyers Guide#Sourcing Your Own Parts|Sourcing Your Own Parts]] section of the i3 buyer's guide is an attempt to make a comprehensive parts list, with links and info on ordering individual components.<br />
<br />
== Rapid Prototype Parts ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<table border = 2><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Description</td><td>Qty</td><td>Image</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>RP Parts</td><td></td><td>located in Prusa/single_plate folder</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>z-axis-top.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/QeLULR6jqhfbZiHGtsVZWN preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Z-axis-top.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>z-axis-bottom.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/ZKnVMghWMS2WC4jJvTo7Ro preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Z-axis-bottom.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-motor.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/MC8oFGT4hn6XUe8ApWE9tc preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:i3-Y-motor.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-idler.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/tuteEzdMGtvNGq7tWWUENS preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Y-idler.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-corners.scad (M10 x 1 M8 x 2 holes)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/6gdnhsjPWedripm58qbWpW preview]</td><td>4</td><td>[[File:I3-Y-corners.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>y-belt-holder.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/oyCjptmBwUCGj6KpCHYmnc preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Y-belt-holder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>x-end-motor.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/hA5MKicD4s2Wa2GmjcjptR preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-X-end-motor.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>x-end-idler.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/AoSpZKAbJW4QUsgsAEsGRe preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-X-end-idler.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>x-carriage.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/3v9J5mMSnbLZ7Lk8FSZeJP preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-x-carriage.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>magnetic-holder.scad (used for hall effect sensors / endstops)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/QfgTpS9steXLzuRokp2m4c preview]</td><td>2</td><td>[[File:I3-Magnetic-holder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>fan-mount.scad<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/anRTZCtzrTizSLcdiFJGo5 preview]</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-Fan-mount.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>belt-guide.scad (suit 623 bearing)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/GY9EKxNhKRAyULQFwPMTR5 preview]</td><td>4</td><td>[[File:I3-Belt-guide.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Extruder options</td><td></td><td>not complete documentation at this stage</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<tr><br />
<td>gregs-wade.scad (in box_frame/extras folder)<br>[http://cubes.supercuber.com/F8d7tQhAfHpkituW3sZFGD preview]<br><br />
</td><br />
<td>1 (???)</td><br />
<td>[[File:I3-Gregs-wade.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<tr><br />
<td>greg-adapter.scad (in mini/extruder/greg-wade folder)</td><td>1 (???)</td><td>[[File:I3-Greg-adapter.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>dual-extruder.scad (deprecated - experimental)</td><td>1 (???)</td><td>[[File:I3-Dual-extruder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>compact-extruder.scad (experimental - likely to be replaced by nema17 extruder)</td><td>1 (???)</td><td>[[File:I3-Compact-extruder.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Single-Frame i3</td><td></td><td>Aluminium 6mm plate 370mm x 370mm</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td>Prusa3ALU-FREZOVANY-v4.dxf</td><td>1</td><td>[[File:I3-DXFPlate.png|200px|thumb|left|]]</td><br />
</tr><br />
</table><br />
<br><br />
Note:<br />
<br><br />
The Prusa3 repository (below) includes frames for both aluminum and laser cut wood (sized for 6mm thick) for both the "single_plate" and "mini" variants. The wood frame files include two gussets, which stabilize the frame from flexing. Photos of each can be found at:<br><br><br />
"single_plate": http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/sets/72157632513929965/with/8378333341/ <br><br />
"mini": http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbgraber/sets/72157632518684272/with/8379471692/ <br><br />
<br><br />
The Prusa3ALU-*.dxf and Prusa3WOOD-*.dxf feature y-carriages that use zipties to fasten three LM8UUs to the underside. Prusa3_SC10UU-*.dxf has mount holes for SC10UU [[linear bearing]] blocks. Use whichever carriage fits your need.<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== File Sources ==<br />
===Github ===<br />
* https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3 - Josef Prusa - main development repository - scad file sources only available<br />
* https://github.com/alexrj/Prusa3/tree/i3-unterwelt - Sound MINI repository, MGS extruder repository (files for parts shown above) - scad file sources and stl files available<br />
* https://github.com/EiNSTeiN-/Prusa3/ - EiNSTeiN - 608 bearings, compact dual extruder repository, note that Y ends for M10 not M8 rods - scad file sources only available<br />
* https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla/tree/master/distribution - vanilla - used by josef prusa in his workshops - scad file sources and stl files available <br />
* https://github.com/Joaz/machine_parts/tree/master/mgs_prusa - Joaz - MGS extruder repository (parts not shown above)<br />
* https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=61d9a16368c58a74&id=61D9A16368C58A74!107&ithint=file,.rar&authkey=!AOcaZeSUEgaTCBA - 3D Printer Czar - STLs with improved Y belt holder<br />
<br />
=== STLs: ===<br />
* Einstein stls: singleplate -->>[[:File:Einstein-singleplate-stl.zip]] (generated 19/2/2014) <br />
* Einstein stls: boxframe -->>[[:File:Einstein-boxframe-stl.zip]] (generated 19/2/2014)<br />
* vanilla stls:[[:File:I3vanilla.zip]]<br />
<br />
<br />
NOTE: developers are encouraged to link or post their sources but also printable stl files, currently (19/2/2014) some of the scad files are throwing errors or missing variable names or simply don't generate anything, instructions for generating stl files from scad files are unclear in terms of which ones to use, the above stl zip files may or may not be accurate however it's better than the previous situation,there are more zipped stl files to be done - thejollygrimreaper<br />
<br />
== Other Build Documentation ==<br />
* Acrylic frame build document by 3D Printer Czar: https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=61D9A16368C58A74!113&authkey=!AI2iTJjJC1ZxdG0&ithint=file%2c.pdf<br />
* Single plate build pics: http://www.sub-design.co.uk/i3build/<br />
* Prusa i3 Frame Kit Build Manual by ReprapUniverse.com: http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/femvh8j5njf4sag/prusa_i3_frame_kit_build_manual.pdf <br />
* Build Documentation: http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/<br />
* [http://www.botbuilder.net/documentation BotBuilder.net Workshop Build Documentation - (50 page PDF)]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NixSNAUPciQ Build Videos]<br />
<br />
===Build instructions of singe plate as an interactive animation===<br />
* [[:File:Linux.zip | Build instructions as a Linux binary]<br />
* [http://www.carlos-sanchez.com/Prusa3/ As an online tool] that works in Windows and OSX.<br />
* New Design complete laser cut kit assembly: http://twelvepro.com/news/?page_id=31<br />
<br />
''Notes:'' <br />
* [[JBFromOZ]] - notes preparing to build an aluminium frame prusa i3. EiNSTeiN variant [[JBFromOZ#Build Instructions (With Pictures!)]]<br />
* Prusa i1/i2 smooth rod lengths should be usable for an i3 single-plate reprap.<br />
* Instructions on the github say to RP each part in the single-plate folder. I believe this instruction applies to the box frame version only, some items need more than 1 copy.<br />
<br />
== Extruder Discussion ==<br />
<br />
It is not yet 100% clear which extruder to use, there is a dual extruder and a compact extruder in the branch though neither looks complete.<br />
there is also a Greg's adapter ([[Greg's Hinged Extruder]] ?) in the /mini/extruder/greg-wade folder, it uses the nuts_and_bolts.scad which needs to be copied to the openscad library folder.<br />
<br />
I am planning to use a MGS extruder with a Nema17 stepper, designs from Sound are shown from his i3-unterwelt branch<br><br />
<br />
Build photos from EiNSTieN's build record, including some additional reference to his edits for 608 bearings, GT2 belts, dual extruders etc.<br />
<br />
== Hybridisation/RepStrap ==<br />
<br />
'''Wooden feet''' to replace plastic feet (y-corners.scad (M10 x 1 M8 x 2 holes)?<br />
While waiting to receive an order of printed parts why not build the base using wooden feet?<br />
Question is what amount of vibration will be experienced? If excessive could you use some old (carpet?) padding?<br />
Any ideas?<br />
<br />
[[Category:Prusa i3]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_i3&diff=148825Prusa i32015-05-20T01:26:31Z<p>Prusajr: Did some updates and added the link to official link. Hope I deserve it ;-)</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Prusa i3}}<br />
<br />
{{RepRapNavigation|name=Prusa i3}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa i3<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Prusai3-metalframe.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa i3 is a design by Josef Prusa.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr<br />
|reprap = Prusa i3<br />
|categories =<br />
{{tag|Prusa i3}},<br />
{{tag|Prusa i3 Development}},<br />
{{tag|Prusa Mendel Development}},<br />
{{tag|Prusa Mendel}},<br />
{{tag|Mendel Variations}},<br />
{{tag|Cartesian-XZ-head}}<br />
|url = [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla Github]<br />
}}The Prusa i3 (iteration 3) is the newest and most current 3D Printer design by RepRap Core Developer Prusajr. The i3 incorporates lessons learned from the previous two Prusa designs, as well as other popular modern RepRap designs.<br />
See also [[Prusa Mendel (iteration 2)]].<br />
<br />
{{Note | Derivates | The Prusa i3 is a very popular design, which led to many people creating derivates. We list these derivates in [[:Category: Prusa i3 Derivate]].}}<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<br />
==Specifications==<br />
<br />
{| {{table}}<br />
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|''''''<br />
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Single Sheet Frame'''<br />
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|'''Box Frame'''<br />
|-<br />
| Plastic Parts (exc. Extruder)||26||29<br />
|-<br />
| Non Printed Parts approx.||337||293<br />
|-<br />
| Cost||$300-1000?||$300-$800?<br />
|-<br />
| Controller Electronics||Almost all RepRap||Almost all RepRap<br />
|-<br />
| Printing Size||200 x 200 x 200||200 x 200 x 270<br />
|-<br />
| Motors||5 x NEMA 17 Stepper||5 x NEMA 17 Stepper<br />
|-<br />
| Frame Material||6mm Aluminium, Wood||12mm Wood<br />
|-<br />
| Frame Manufacture||Laser Cutter, CNC, Water Jet||Basic Woodwork Tools<br />
|-<br />
| Pro||Easy assembly||Rigid XZ to Y Connection<br />
|-<br />
| Con||Specialised Tools||Looks less professional?<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Main improvements==<br />
The following is a list of the main improvements made upon the Prusa Mendel Iteration 2<br />
<br />
* Enhanced frame rigidity (prevents x-axis backlash)<br />
* Easy assembly<br />
* Parametric files for multiple sizes/bearings or bushings<br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3.<br />
<br />
== History ==<br />
<br />
Prusa i2: November 2011 [http://blog.reprap.org/2011/11/prusa-iteration-2.html].<br />
<br />
Prusa i3: First commit in GitHub repository in May 2012 [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/commit/d3618a65684dae11b45e364b28529af3ea1782e5]<br />
<br />
Commit on September 3 2012 by Josef Prusa is labeled: '''Final Refactoring Complete''' [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/commit/e6b2166c14e240d841483d0f21b6b062177efbb0].<br />
<br />
There were many commits the following months, evidencing the continuous development process.<br />
<br />
The rate of commits dropped rapidly after August 2013.<br />
<br />
However, that is not the end of the Prusa i3 development. See [http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Prusa_i3_Development the Prusa i3 Development page here].<br />
<br />
In January 2014 Prusa moved the original development to vanilla repository on [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla Github].<br />
<br />
In May 2015 official kit became [http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-kit-with-lcd.html available from Prusa].<br />
<br />
== Variants ==<br />
<br />
The release of the Prusa i3 under the GPL license and numerous other factors (its low cost, minimal BOM, simple assembly and calibration procedures, more than adequate documentation, etc) have encouraged the further development of a growing number of Prusa i3 "variants" worldwide, with different parts, different materials and different assembly processes, but which altogether adhere to the general looks, component assembly, dimensions and functionality of the original Prusa i3.<br />
<br />
See the page [[Prusa_i3_Variants]] for an attempt to list the Prusa i3 Open Source variants along with their differences / improvements and "genetic lineage".<br />
<br />
==Printed Parts==<br />
<br />
The STL files to make the printer can be found at [[Clone_wars:_Prusa_iteraci%C3%B3n_3]]. <br />
and here zipped up: [[file:clonewars.zip]]<br />
Please note that the zipped files are not compatible with holes for the Z axis brackets in the Prusa3ALU-*.dxf drawings, at least the ones in the old/ folder in github. Also, the models for Y-axis brackets are for M8 rods. Compiling your own and investigating the Prusa github packages is highly recommended!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
To compile it yourself use the files from Github [[https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3]] (box style files) [[https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/tree/jo-final]] (Single sheet style)<br />
Copy configuration.scad.dist to configuration.scad and fill custom<br />
settings section there<br />
<br />
<br />
RP every .scad in this directory (except complete-printer) once.<br />
Aim for 0.3mm layers and 2.2 extrusion width (width over thickness),<br />
for 0.66mm stroke width. Printer is tested at this setting.<br />
<br />
Using doc/complete-printer.scad as a visual clue and doc/manual.txt as a<br />
guide, build the printer.<br />
<br />
==Frame type==<br />
<br />
Most major Prusa i3 Frame Styles fall into two categories: the Single Sheet Frame, and the Box Style Frame. The Single Sheet Frame is designed to be manufactured through the use of a Laser cutter, WaterJet, or CNC Mill / Router Table. There are two current development tracks within the Single Sheet Frame, an Aluminium frame style, and a gusseted Wood frame style. Both are designed to support 6mm or thicker framing material. Both the [http://reprap.org/wiki/JBFromOZ#Single_Plate_Style EiNSTeiN variant] and the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Introduction i3 Rework] designs use single sheet aluminum frames, as do most kits. The Box Style Frame, on the other hand, is designed to be easily manufactured at home with basic woodworking tools. The Y-axis for both frame styles is similar to that of the older Prusa Mendel Iteration 2. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
===Single Sheet Frame===<br />
<br />
This is a frame created from a single sheet of metal, typically Aluminum, but can also be made from various Materials with a thickness greater than 6mm / 0.25 inch<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg|thumb|none|alt=Prusa i3 with a single metal sheet style frame.|Prusa i3 with a single metal sheet style frame.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''pro:'''<br />
<br />
- Looks professional (subjective)<br />
<br />
'''con:'''<br />
<br />
- Requires specialised tools (e.g. Water flow jet cutter)<br />
<br />
- Less rigid connection between XZ-frame and Y-frame part, however this can be somewhat rectified by the TwelvePro variant, which provides additional frame support.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Wood Sheet frame ===<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusa-i3-wood.jpg|thumb|none|alt=Wood Style Sheet Frame|Wood Style Sheet Frame]]<br />
[[File:Prusa-i3-wood-in-melamime.jpg|thumb|none|alt=Wood Style Sheet Frame Made Out Of Melamime|Wood Style Sheet Frame Made Out Of Melamime]]<br />
<br />
This is a version of the sheet frame that is designed to be laser cut out of wood or plastic (eg. acrylic) if you don't have access to a waterjet cutter. The only difference is that this version has support gussets on the back side of the vertical frame (the side that doesn't have the z threaded rods).<br />
<br />
Construction is the same.<br />
<br />
Laser cutting files can be found at github.com/sgraber/Prusa3_LC.<br />
<br />
'''pro:'''<br />
<br />
- Looks professional (subjective)<br />
<br />
'''con:'''<br />
<br />
- Requires specialized tools (e.g.laser cutter)<br />
<br />
- Less rigid connection between XZ-frame and Y-frame part (Connects in the same way as the alu sheet frame)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
===Box Style Frame===<br />
This frame is created from 8 small sheets of wood.<br />
<br />
[[File:i3-boxframe.jpg|thumb|none|alt=Prusa i3 with a box style frame.|Prusa i3 with a box style frame.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''pro:'''<br />
<br />
- Can be created with standard DIY tools<br />
<br />
- More rigid connection between XZ-frame and Y-frame part<br />
<br />
'''con:'''<br />
<br />
- Looks less professional (subjective)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== Alternate Box frame === <br />
<br />
[[File:Prusa Box.jpg|thumb|none|alt=A Alternate box style frame.|A Alternate box style frame.]] <br />
<br />
This is a version of the boxed frame that uses only 5 parts instead of 8. <br />
It requires a little more work when cutting out the parts but less work to assemble. <br />
<br />
Blueprints for the box can be found Here[https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5KQoskdsdeDNEFpTTY0ZmdSQjg/edit?usp=sharing]<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
===Stepper Motors===<br />
<br />
The Prusa i3 uses, including the extruder, 5 NEMA17 stepper motors. Two of these motors, the Z axis motors, are connected to the same stepper driver of the electronics. If using Wade's Extruder, its stepper motor needs a minimum holding torque of 40Ncm (0.4Nm). More information can be found on the [[Stepper Motor]] page.<br />
<br />
===Controller Electronics===<br />
<br />
About any RepRap controller works for the Prusa i3. Required features: 4 stepper drivers, 1 thermistor input and 1 heater output for the extruder and optionally another thermistor/heater pair for the heated bed. Choosing the best one for your printer is mostly a matter of taste. For comparisons, see [[List of electronics]], [[Comparison of Electronics]] and [[Alternative Electronics]].<br />
<br />
===Extruder===<br />
<br />
[[Extruder]]<br />
<br />
On November 12th, 2012 Josef Prusa (@josefprusa) tweeted a picture of his metal frame i3 with a custom dual extruder mounted.<br />
<br />
[[File:prusai3dual.jpg|thumb|none|alt=Prusa i3 with an unnamed dual extruder mounted.|Prusa i3 with an unnamed dual extruder mounted.]]<br />
<br />
Previous posts on Prusa's twitter feed reveal that Sound (Slic3r's Developer) inspired Prusa to attach a dual extruder.<br />
<br />
In may 2015 was published the [[&makers]] single direct drive extruder named [[&struder]], was designed to use on [[Wood multitool]] and now is adapted to use on prusa i3.<br />
<br />
===Heated Bed===<br />
The Prusa i3 includes a [[Heated Bed]] which allows for the use of materials such as [[ABS]] and nylon which can experience significant warping if printing on a cold platform.<br />
<br />
*MK3 heating bed, aluminum plate thickness of 3 mm, uniform heating, fast, back has good heat preservation, high temperature can be heated to 120 degrees<br />
[[File:I3-12.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Filament Holder==<br />
<br />
For Sheet Style, <br />
<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:60720 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:60720]<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:68329 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:68329]<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153792 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153792]<br />
<br />
For Box Style,<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104557 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104557],but I recommend using threaded rod and bearings with this thing, like [http://www.thingiverse.com/make:41414 this]<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111157 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111157]<br />
<br />
==Videos==<br />
*Montando la Prusa Mendel i3 (Spanish) [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-31Zn7wY7jk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-31Zn7wY7jk]<br />
*Aluminium Body i3 (Spanish) [http://reprap.org/wiki/User:OverCraft3D Video montaje completo por capítulos (OverCraft3D)]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User:Prusajr&diff=148824User:Prusajr2015-05-20T01:11:40Z<p>Prusajr: /* Contact */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Josef Průša''' '''-proosha-''' is the creator of '''Prusa 3D''' printers. He is actively developing the design. Recently he started selling original Prusa i3 kits worldwide check them out at [http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-kit/ Prusa3d.com]<br />
<br />
=Contact=<br />
*'''Josef Průša'''<br />
*Prague<br />
*http://josefprusa.cz<br />
*http://prusa3d.com<br />
*'''http://shop.prusa3d.com'''<br />
*iam@josefprusa.cz<br />
<br />
=Contributions=<br />
* [[Prusa Mendel]]<br />
* [[Thermocouple_vs_Thermistor]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Nice People Who Upload Files And Are Quite Keen On Selling You A Set Of Printed Parts]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg&diff=148823File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg2015-05-20T01:05:46Z<p>Prusajr: Prusajr uploaded a new version of &quot;File:Prusai3-metalframe.jpg&quot;: Fancier prettier image</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Talk:RepRap_Buyers%27_Guide&diff=148819Talk:RepRap Buyers' Guide2015-05-19T21:58:28Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>Remember guys, neutral voice, this is a wiki, not a Flea Market. -Neil/Spacexula<br />
<br />
== How to get included into the RepRap Buyers' Guide ==<br />
<br />
It's simple: please add your entry here in a new line. Take care to set to set your country right and also to put checkmarks (only) where they fit. Admins watch this talk page and will take the entry over to the main page after a review.<br />
<br />
In case you aren't allowed to add external links (you'll notice that), put a space between the slashes of the link, like http:/ /example.com . The Admin will fix them when moving the entry over to the main page.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Vendor<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Loc.<br />
! {{Vertical|2em|12em|&nbsp;Full&nbsp;Printer&nbsp;Kits}}<br />
! {{Vertical|2em|12em|&nbsp;Printed&nbsp;Parts&nbsp;Kits}}<br />
! {{Vertical|2em|12em|&nbsp;Electronics&nbsp;Kits}}<br />
! {{Vertical|2em|12em|&nbsp;Extruder/Hotends}}<br />
! {{Vertical|2em|12em|&nbsp;Heated&nbsp;Beds}}<br />
! {{Vertical|2em|12em|&nbsp;Steppers}}<br />
! {{Vertical|2em|12em|&nbsp;Smooth/threaded&nbsp;Rods }}<br />
! {{Vertical|2em|12em|&nbsp;Filaments}}<br />
! {{Vertical|2em|12em|&nbsp;Misc.}}<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Developers of ...<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" class="unsortable" | Reviews and notes<br />
|-<br />
| [http://example-shop.com Example Shop] || AQ <br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; ||&#x2713; ||&#x2713; ||&#x2713;||&#x2713;<br />
| Miscellaneous|| &lt;your genuine development(s), if any, here&gt; || reviews go here (third party only)<br />
|-<br />
| [http://shop.prusa3d.com Official Prusa Shop] || CZ <br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; ||&#x2713; || || ||&#x2713;<br />
| Owned by Josef Prusa|| Prusa 3D printers and nozzles || Waiting ;-)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
-moved over and sorted the list out 23/4/2014 - thejollygrimreaper<br />
-moved over and sorted the list out 22/6/2014 - thejollygrimreaper<br />
-Moved over to main list 12/11/2014 - thejollygrimreaper<br />
-list sorted 30/11/2014 - --[[User:Thejollygrimreaper|Thejollygrimreaper]] ([[User talk:Thejollygrimreaper|talk]]) 15:49, 29 November 2014 (PST)<br />
-moved over --[[User:Thejollygrimreaper|Thejollygrimreaper]] ([[User talk:Thejollygrimreaper|talk]]) 17:40, 3 December 2014 (PST)<br />
-moved over --[[User:Thejollygrimreaper|Thejollygrimreaper]] ([[User talk:Thejollygrimreaper|talk]]) 03:34, 15 December 2014 (PST)<br />
-moved over --[[User:Thejollygrimreaper|Thejollygrimreaper]] ([[User talk:Thejollygrimreaper|talk]]) 23:44, 16 January 2015 (PST)<br />
-moved over --[[User:Thejollygrimreaper|Thejollygrimreaper]] ([[User talk:Thejollygrimreaper|talk]]) 18:34, 24 April 2015 (PDT)<br />
-moved over --[[User:Thejollygrimreaper|Thejollygrimreaper]] ([[User talk:Thejollygrimreaper|talk]]) 04:52, 15 May 2015 (PDT)<br />
<br />
== Makerbot? ==<br />
<br />
Does it still make sense to list Makerbot here ?<br />
They do not do open-hardware anymore, they are pretty hostile to the community, and the only few parts they carry that could be useful in building a reprap are hobbed bolts and a few other random vitamins. --[[User:Arthurwolf|Arthurwolf]] ([[User talk:Arthurwolf|talk]]) 02:27, 9 December 2014 (PST)<br />
<br />
== various pages that list sellers ==<br />
<br />
There seem to be a bunch of wiki pages that list places where people can buy stuff related to building a RepRap (raw materials and "vitamins") or a RepStrap.<br />
<br />
* [[Mendel Buyers Guide]]<br />
* [[Mendel materials procurement]]<br />
* [[Mendel assembly data sheet]]<br />
* [[PartsSupplies]]<br />
* [[Suppliers]]<br />
* [[Frame material]]<br />
* [[Extruded Aluminum]]<br />
<br />
Should we merge some of these pages together?<br />
Or put an explanation on one of these pages that lists all the pages why each one exists?<br />
--[[User:DavidCary|DavidCary]] 03:07, 11 April 2010 (UTC)<br />
<br />
Hey guys! a bunch of useful information disappearred just now. Specifically, McMaster Carr entry had links to two specific steel rods. They were the cheapest in my area and they delivered them the same day. Are these not suitable anymore? --[[user: Prof_Braino]] Sept 17<br />
<br />
== Please update the table listing for 3dbotshack.com ==<br />
We have added Hobbed Bolts (information can be found here http://3dbotshack.com/hobbedbolt.html ) and MK1 Heated Beds (info can be found here http://3dbotshack.com/3dprinterpcbheatbed.html ).<br />
<br />
<br />
== How to support developers even better ==<br />
<br />
Following the discussion about TrinityLabs above, I'd appreciate a discussion on how to support RepRap developers even better. The "Developer of..." column is new in this revision of the guide and meant to distinguish shops just copying openly available developments (I tend to call then "copy shops") from those who also do active development for the RepRap community. Now [[User:ArthurWolf]] has brought up shops which don't do their own development, but "support" development. I guess, "support" means something like paying a fee per product sold or ordering shop supplies not at a manufacturer, but from the developer.<br />
<br />
As shops supporting development are undoubtly more valueable for the community, maybe even essential for the community to survive as an independent one, how can we get this into the picture? What's the measurement to avoid checkmark hunters (like e.g. donating $0.10 per product sold, just to get the check mark) versus highlighting noticeable support? Can we perhaps call out one of the support strategies to be a recommended standard for RepRap shops?<br />
<br />
--[[User:Traumflug|Traumflug]] 20:18, 14 June 2013 (UTC)<br />
<br />
: P.S.: After writing this ArthurWolf explained the situation: TrinityLabs is actually one of several of the [[SmoothieBoard]] developers (so far I considered him to be the only one), but he also asked to forward this to another admin, so I keep my hands still. Nevertheless I think the general scope of the topic here deserves a discussion. --[[User:Traumflug|Traumflug]] 20:41, 14 June 2013 (UTC)<br />
<br />
Perhaps as a first step in this direction, each row could name the developer(s) who designed the products they are selling? For example, if a shop sold the original, unmodified [[Darwin]], that row would credit Adrian Bowyer. More recent machines would typically credit at least 3 people (the mechanical structure designer, the electronics designer, and the software programmer) and previous designers whose work they built on. --[[User:DavidCary|DavidCary]] 17:57, 25 August 2013 (UTC)<br />
: Might become tricky, because shops not selling their own developments tend to sell many different designs. Regarding electronics and firmware I'd be very happy to see this recognized as separate itmes. You can drive a Mendel with about any electronics and many firmwares; the smae is true for about any printer design. Printer designs should just list the required features of the controlling electronics instead of prefering a specific one. --[[User:Traumflug|Traumflug]] 10:47, 26 August 2013 (UTC)<br />
<br />
<br />
== Reviews shouldn't be from shop owners, but for customers ==<br />
<br />
Some of «Reviews and notes» are filled by shop owners; this is bad because isn't factual. Same for price, because shop owners will not be able to edit and update this information directly. --[[User:XoanSampaiño|Xoan Sampaiño]] ([[User talk:XoanSampaiño|talk]]) 21:27, 23 June 2014 (PDT)<br />
<br />
== listing update ==<br />
9/2/2015- moved over, if i missed any add them to the list at the top of the page --[[User:Thejollygrimreaper|Thejollygrimreaper]] ([[User talk:Thejollygrimreaper|talk]]) 01:34, 9 February 2015 (PST)</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_i3_Buyers_Guide&diff=148816Prusa i3 Buyers Guide2015-05-19T21:50:58Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
<br />
{{RepRapNavigation|name=Prusa i3}}<br />
<br />
== Full Kits ==<br />
<br />
All these vendors have an assortment of kits and/or parts specific to the Prusa i3. The list is non-exhaustive and contains both, good and bad quality RepRap-oriented vendors. <br />
<br />
To find a shop in your country, click on this little box near "Loc." and you'll find all of them in one spot. <br />
<br />
'''<br />
*** for maintainability/abuse reasons the table below will be merged over to the reprap buyers guide in the not too distant future'''<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Vendor<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Loc.<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | [[File:Full Printer Kits.png|25px]]<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | [[File:Printed Parts Kits1.png|25px]]<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | [[File:Electronics Kits.png|25px]]<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | [[File:Extruder Hotends.png|25px]]<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" class="unsortable" | Reviews and notes<br />
|-<br />
| [http://3dborg.com/ 3dborg.com] || NE, USA<br />
| &#x2713; || || ||<br />
| Mini i3's only.<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/ 3D Printers Online Store] || UK <br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| All latest Acrylic Prusa i3 Printers/Kits $315.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://3dbotshack.com/ 3dbotshack.com] || MN, USA<br />
| || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| [http://shop.prusa3d.com/ Official Prusa shop Prusa3d.com] || EU, US<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Owned by Josef Prusa. High quality kits and fully assembled printers. <br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.3distributed.com/collections/complete-kits 3Distributed] || UK <br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || ||<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.3dprinterczar.com/ 3D Printer Czar] || US, HK <br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Acrylic Frame Kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://aus3d.com.au/ ''Aus3D''] || AU <br />
| &#x2713; || || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.3dindustriesaustralia.com.au/ 3D Industries Australia] || AU <br />
| || || || &#x2713;<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| [http://store.bcndynamics.com/ BCN Dynamics] || ES<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| DM Frame Box and Aluminum single frame kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://reprap.pt RepRap PT] || PT<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Aluminium frame single plate kit.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.bitmovel.pt/ Bitmovel] || PT<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| 3D minions || CN, HK <br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.blomker.com/ Blomker Industries] || ASIA<br />
| &#x2713; || || &#x2713; || <br />
| Aluminum single frame kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.com/webshop Charlie's 3D Technologies] || BE<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Aluminum single frame kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.createc3d.com Createc 3D] || ES<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| single frame kits, Prusa i3 acrylic and Steel<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.cultivate3d.com/ cultivate3d] || AUS<br />
| &#x2713; || || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Kits with braced Frame<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.ebay.com/usr/erie3dprinting?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Erie 3D Printing] || USA<br />
| || &#x2713; || || <br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.folgertech.com Folger Technologies] || USA<br />
| &#x2713; || || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Acrylic Frame i3 Full Kit $319<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.ebay.com/sch/crunchtech/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25&_trksid=p3692 CrunchTech eBay Store] || USA<br />
| || &#x2713; || || <br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.edistri.be eDistri] || BE<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| [http://shop.diytechshop.com DIY Tech Shop] || US <br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; <br />
| Aluminum single frame kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.reprap-france.com eMotion Tech] || FR<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Aluminum single frame kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.iniciativas3d.com/category/53-impresoras-3d.aspx Iniciativas 3D] || ES<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Steel, Methacrylate and Aluminum kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.kitprinter3d.com KitPrinter3D] || ES<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Aluminum & steel kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.llamatech.be/en/ llama tech 3D printing] || BE <br />
| &#x2713; || || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Aluminum single frame kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.makerfarm.com MakerFarm.com] || <br />
| &#x2713; || || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Laser cut wood kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.moebyus.com Moebyus Machines] || ES<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Steel, Methacrylate and Aluminum kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.nwreprap.com NWRepRap] || USA<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.printeddreams.es Printed Dreams] || ES<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Methacrylate and Aluminum kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.replikeo.com Replikeo.com] || HK<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Aluminum, Plexiglass and Steel frame kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.reprapsource.com/en/show/6774 reprapsource In Beta] || DE<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Box style frames.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://reprapuniverse.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=prusa+i3 ReprapUniverse] || NL<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Multiple variations available.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.twelvepro.com Twelvepro.com] || <br />
| &#x2713; || || ||<br />
| Mini i3's.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.reprapthai.com RepRap Thailand] || ASIA<br />
| &#x2713; || || &#x2713; || <br />
| Wood and Acrylic single frame kits. <br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.3dprintronics.com/3d-store/prusa-kits#!/~/product/category=6664678&id=28256064 3DPrintronics.com] || India<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Aluminium Single frame kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://makemendel.com/prusa-i3-parts makemendel.com] || India<br />
| || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Frame and Screws are not included.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://220v.biz/3d 220v.biz] || Ukraine<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Structures made of plywood and other<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.schufco.com/ schufco] || BE <br />
| &#x2713; || || || &#x2713;<br />
| Aluminium kits.<br />
|-<br />
| http:/ /semiu.co.uk Semi-Utilitronic Industries || UK<br />
| &#x2713; || || ||<br />
| Aluminium frame single plate, box frame kits.<br />
|-<br />
| think3D || IN <br />
| || || || &#x2713;<br />
| Wood and Acrylic single frame kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://impresoras3dlowcost.com/ i3Dlc] || ES<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Steel kits.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.tehnologika.net tehnologika.net] || Slovakia<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Structures made of plywood.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.reprapmall.com Reprapmall] || CN<br />
| &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713; || &#x2713;<br />
| Acrylic sheet frame.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Various kits and plastic parts are also available on eBay. Search for "Prusa i3" for the list of kits. If buying from eBay, make sure to ask the seller which version of the i3 they are building. There's three flavors in total: single_plate, box_frame, and mini. single_plate is the aluminum frame (lasercut wood/acrylic alternative available), box_frame is the one where you screw sections of wood together to make a heavy duty box frame, and mini is the 4" x 4" x 4" build volume variant that has an aluminum frame (lasercut wood/acrylic alternative available).<br />
<br />
== Workshops ==<br />
<br />
Another option is to attend a build workshop. You can get a group together and ask someone to put on a workshop for you, or you can find a group putting on a build workshop, such as your local [http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/ Hacker Space].<br />
<br />
Here is a list of i3 build workshops:<br />
<br />
*[http://www.createc3d.com ''Createc 3D''] (Spain)<br />
*[http://www.reprapworkshop.cz ''reprapworkshop.cz''] (Czech Republic, aluminium frame)<br />
*[http://www.forum.220v.biz ''220v.biz''] (Украина, форум, рамы из фанеры)<br />
<br />
== Sourcing Your Own Parts ==<br />
<br />
Sourcing your own parts allows you to personalize your i3 to fit your needs and budget. The total can range from ~$334 to ~$1,290. If you select the best sourcing options, but find good deals on them, you can expect to pay ~$555.<br />
<br />
There are a number of design styles and options for different Prusa i3 parts. This can quickly become confusing, especially for the first time builder. There are only a few resources for building a Prusa, (both box frame and single plate style) and nothing to help would-be adopters across the first big hurdle: what parts to order. An unofficial BOM (Bill Of Materials) was put together in November 2012, but there doesn’t seem to be one for the Beta release.<br />
<br />
In order to make things easier, I have tried to bring all the relevant info scattered throughout the internet into one place. If you know of a better alternative part, or have a better or cheaper source for a part, please add it to the list.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''*** This page is watched, and an Ebay and/or Direct item links will be removed, this is due to links going bad when items on outside websites get updated and Ebay search links being used to target specific sellers''' <br />
<br />
=== Frame ===<br />
<br />
The first design choice is between the boxed style frame and the single sheet (also called single plate) style frame. The box style is somewhat more rigid, but also slightly more complex to build and less aesthetically appealing. Single sheet frame is simple, but uses expensive laser cut aluminum parts. (more info [[Prusa_i3#Frame_type|here]]) Note that the two frames require different length rods. For info on the rods, or on using different length rods to increase/decrease your build volume, look [[Prusa_i3_Build_Manual#Rods|here]].<br />
<br />
The exact width of the boards is not crucial, so long as the lengths are appropriate to the rods used. (Note that the width of the bottom board limits how far forward the y axis can be placed. This is compensated for by offsetting the linear bearings on the y carriage/bed.) If different board thicknesses are used, the design will have to be modified slightly. The y axis M10 threaded rods should just clear the bottom of the frame in order for the printed attachment points to sit at roughly the right level. The frame width (475mm) should be 5mm longer than the x axis smooth rod length (470mm). The 475mm board is longer so that it can span the whole frame width and overlap two other boards, which are 12mm thick. (450 + 12 + 12 ≈ 475mm)<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Box Style Frame<br />
! Part !! Sourcing Options !! Source<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | 6x 450x100x12mm pieces of wood (If bottom board is more than 13mm thick, it will bow the y axis up.)<br />
| cut from three boards, each 48x4x1/2"* <br />
|| [http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbqmc/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#/?c=1&1z0yq9f=1z0yq9f Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/pd_1141-99899-09732_4294815782__?productId=3602646&Ntt=1%2F2%22&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D1%252F2%2522&facetInfo= Lowe’s], etc. <br />
|-<br />
| cut from one sheet 24x48x1/2" plywood* || [http://www.doitbest.com/Lumber-Ufpi+Lbr+and+Treated-model-109097-doitbest-sku-100292.dib Do it Best], [http://www.homedepot.com/p/PureBond-1-2-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Maple-Plywood-1802/203552995 Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/Building-Supplies/Lumber/_/N-1z13cei/pl?Ntt=1%2F2%22#! Lowe’s], [http://search.wickes.co.uk/search#ts=ajax&method=and&w=12mm%20plywood&isort=score Wickes], etc.<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| Rowspan="2" | 475x100x12mm piece of wood (if using boards that are not 12.5mm thick, adjust length to be 450 plus twice the thickness)<br />
| cut from one 48x4x1" board* || [http://www.doitbest.com/Main.aspx?Ntt=1x4%22&Pageid=365&Ntk=Default&Ntx=mode+matchall&N=4294967176&Ne=4294967294 Do it Best], [http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbqmc/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#/?c=1&1z0ywy2=1z0ywy2 Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/Building-Supplies/Lumber/_/N-1z13cei/pl?Ntt=1x4#! Lowe’s], etc.<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| cut from one sheet 24x48x19/32" plywood* || [http://www.homedepot.com/p/19-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Rated-Sheathing-Syp-166081/100004472 Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/pd_12242-99899-NA_4294934297__?productId=3602886&Ntt=19%2F32%22&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D19%252F32%2522&facetInfo= Lowe’s], etc.<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | 230x230x12mm wooden bed || cut from a 10x1" thick board* || [http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbqmc/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#/?c=1&1z0ywwn=1z0ywwn Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/pd_238350-99899-2829_4294934154__?productId=3603706&Ntt=3%2F4%22+10%22&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D3%252F4%2522%2B10%2522&facetInfo= Lowe’s], etc.<br />
|-<br />
| cut from one sheet 24x48x1/2" plywood* || [http://www.doitbest.com/Lumber-Ufpi+Lbr+and+Treated-model-109097-doitbest-sku-100292.dib Do it Best], [http://www.homedepot.com/p/PureBond-1-2-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Maple-Plywood-1802/203552995 Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/Building-Supplies/Lumber/_/N-1z13cei/pl?Ntt=1%2F2%22#! Lowe’s], [http://search.wickes.co.uk/search#ts=ajax&method=and&w=12mm%20plywood&isort=score Wickes], etc.<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| 60x 3.5x20mm wood screws || #6 x 3/4” wood screws || [http://www.doitbest.com/Wood+screws-Hillman+Fastener-model-7258-doitbest-sku-711063.dib Do it Best], [http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=%236+3%2F4%22%20screws&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=SearchAll Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/Fasteners/Screws/Wood-Screws/_/N-1z0yk3a/pl?Ntt=%236+3%2F4%22#! Lowe’s], [http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/511078 Wickes], etc.<br />
|-<br />
| Glue (optional) || Wood glue || Local hardware store<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| Wood Sealant (optional) || Assorted shades and colors || Local hardware store<br />
|}<br />
<nowiki>*</nowiki>Actual dimensions of lumber are [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumber#Dimensional_lumber smaller] than nominal due to shrinkage during drying. Some given dimensions are actual, and some are nominal.<br />
<br />
Wood also warps as humidity changes. To minimize this, select pieces with uniform edge-grain without knots. Oak and poplar are good choices. (More information on wood selection [http://www.iment.com/maida/favs/house/useful/woodselecting.htm here]). Using a wood sealant will minimize changes in moisture content. A thin, light, unsealed wood should be used for the heated bed. A heavy bed will limit print speed and quality, and the heat will break down the sealant. Even paraffin wood sealants designed for saunas wouldn't be able to keep steam from leaving the surface if it gets close to 100°C. It would, however, prevent moisture from returning to that surface after cooldown. Uneven moisture content is what CAUSES warping, so this is a bad idea.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Single Sheet/Plate Style Frame<br />
<br />
! Part !! Sourcing Options !! Source<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="3" | Single Sheet Frame Parts (6mm thick) || Kit with laser cut aluminum parts || [http://reprapuniverse.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=69 ReprapUniverse.com], [http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.com/webshop/catalog/printer-frame Charlie’s 3D Technologies], [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=prusa+i3+aluminum+frame&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=prusa+i3+aluminum+frame&_sacat=0 eBay], [http://norcalreprap.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14&products_id=32 NorCal-Reprap] (norcalreprap appears to be out of business), [http://www.reprapsource.com/en/shop/list/226 RepRap Source], [http://reprapteile.de/druckerteile/prusa-i3-aluminium-rahmen-blau.html RepRapteile DE], [http://www.3dprintronics.com/3d-store/prusa-kits#!/~/product/category=6664678&id=28256064 3DPrintronics.com India].<br />
|-<br />
| Kit with laser cut plywood parts || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=prusa+i3+frame+wooden%2Fplywood&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=prusa+i3+frame+wooden%2Fplywood&_sacat=0 eBay], [http://twelvepro.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=59 TwelvePro], [http://tricklaser.com/Prusa-i3-wood-frame-PR-i3-WOOD1.htm TrickLaser], [http://www.220v.biz 220v.biz] etc.<br />
|-<br />
| cut from ¼” Plywood and use gussets for strength || [http://www.doitbest.com/Framing+lumber-Universal+Forest-model-99792-doitbest-sku-105953.dib Do it Best], [http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=4x8+plywood&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=SearchAll Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/SearchCatalogDisplay?storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=plywood#! Lowe’s], [http://search.wickes.co.uk/search#w=6mm%20plywood&asug= Wickes], [http://www.220v.biz 220v.biz] etc.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Rods ===<br />
<br />
You will need rods to match your frame. Precision ground rods are highly recommended, since bent or uneven rods will directly influence print quality. Bearings may not fit along sections of rod that are too large, and will rattle on smaller sections. Keep in mind that, while precision rod is formulated and tempered for rigidity, rod from welding supply stores is intended to be bent into shape. It is easily marred, and bends easily under any load. For this reason, you may want to buy from a supplier that cuts the rods to length before shipment, since longer rods are more likely to bend during shipping. If sourcing from a local hardware or welding supply store, you may want to roll the rod on the ground or sight down the length to ensure straightness.<br />
<br />
Most threaded rod will suffice, provided that it is relatively straight. Precision threaded rod (and precision nuts!) will reduce backlash and improve print precision. For the best quality, any of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leadscrew#Types several varieties of leadscrews] can be used ([[Threaded_rod#Vendors|sources listed here]]), although they require matching nuts. This requires that you modify your printed parts, so they are not listed below. For vertical threaded rods, gravity keeps the nut threads pressed downward against the threads on the rod, and so backlash is less of an issue. A uniform number of threads per inch is still necessary for layer thickness control. M10, M8, and M5 threads have a pitch of 1.5, 1.25, and 0.8 mm per rotation respectively. Although these [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread#Preferred_sizes ISO metric threads] are the default, finer threads can also be sourced.<br />
<br />
The specific rod diameter used is not crucial, allowing either metric or imperial sizes (although this will create 0.06mm slop in the bearings). Non-precision rods have diameter variations of around ±0.030mm, but too large is worse than too small since the linear bearings won’t fit. Precision bearings are ±0.009 or below. It may also be desirable to use larger rods for i3’s that may have higher loading (many heavy extruders, or a mill and drill head). Different sizes of threaded rods can be used, since they only connect to the i3 via nuts, which can easily be changed slightly. More substantial size changes may require different couplers to connect to the motors. If different smooth rods are used, then appropriately sized bearings must be sourced.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Rods for Box Style Frame<br />
! Part !! Sourcing Options !! Source<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | 8mm [[Smooth_rod|smooth rods]] (x axis: 2x 470mm, 1x 20mm; Y: 2x 370mm; Z: 2x 405mm) || Precision ground (cut from two 600mm and 2 800mm Precision Drive Shafts) || [[RepRap_Buyers'_Guide]]<br />
|-<br />
| Non-precision rods (BUY THEM AS STRAIGHT AS POSSIBLE and cut from three 36x5/16" rods if necessary) || [http://www.lowes.com/ Lowes], [http://www.tractorsupply.com Tractor Supply], [http://www.wickes.co.uk/ Wickes], etc<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| 2x 400+mm M10 [[Threaded_rod|threaded rod]] (Y axis) || cut from 1m long M10 or 3/8” threaded rod || [http://www.doitbest.com/ Do it Best], , [http://www.lowes.com/ Lowe’s], [http://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster], [http://www.tractorsupply.com/ Tractor Supply], [http://search.wickes.co.uk/ Wickes], etc<br />
|-<br />
| 4x 205+mm M8 [[Threaded_rod|threaded rods]] (Y axis) || cut from 1m long M8 or 5/16” threaded rod || [http://www.doitbest.com/ Do it Best], [http://www.lowes.com/ Lowe’s], [http://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster], [http://www.tractorsupply.com/ Tractor Supply], [http://search.wickes.co.uk/ Wickes], etc<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| 2x ~370mm M5 [[Threaded_rod|threaded rod]] (Z axis) || cut from 1m long M5, 3/16”, or ¼” threaded rod || [http://www.doitbest.com/ Lowe’s], [http://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster], [http://www.tractorsupply.com/ Tractor Supply], [http://search.wickes.co.uk/ Wickes], etc<br />
|-<br />
| Pre-cut kits with some or all of the above || i3 specific rods || [http://3dbotshack.com/hardware.html 3dbotshack.com],[http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.com/webshop/catalog/studs-and-bars Charlie’s 3d Technologies],[http://makemendel.com/ MakeMendel], [http://www.reprapsource.com/ RepRapSource],<br />
[http://http://3dacessorieshub.com/ 3D Acessories Hub]] <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<nowiki>*</nowiki>There are some precision rods on eBay, but most of them are not. If the seller doesn’t have the tolerances listed, then chances are they aren’t high precision.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Rods for Single Sheet/Plate Style Frame<br />
! Part !! Sourcing Options !! Source<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | 8mm [[Smooth_rod|smooth rods]] (x axis: 2x 370mm, 1x 20mm; Y: 2x 350mm; Z: 2x 320mm) || Precision ground (cut from two 600mm and 2 800mm Precision Drive Shafts) || [[RepRap_Buyers'_Guide]]<br />
|-<br />
| Non-precision rods (BUY THEM AS STREIGHT AS POSSIBLE and cut from three 36x5/16" rods if necessary) || [http://www.lowes.com/ Lowes], [http://www.tractorsupply.com/ Tractor Supply], [http://www.wickes.co.uk/ Wickes], etc<br />
|-<br />
| 2x 380mm M10 [[Threaded rod|threaded rods]] (Y axis) || cut from 1m long M10 or 3/8” threaded rod || [http://www.doitbest.com/ Lowe’s], [http://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster], [http://www.tractorsupply.com Tractor Supply], [http://search.wickes.co.uk/ Wickes], etc<br />
|-<br />
| 4x 205mm M8 [[Threaded rod|threaded rods]] (Y axis)|| cut from 1m long M8 or 5/16” threaded rod || [http://www.doitbest.com/ Do it Best], [http://www.lowes.com/ Lowe’s], [http://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster], [http://www.tractorsupply.com Tractor Supply], [http://search.wickes.co.uk/ Wickes], etc<br />
|-<br />
| 2x 300+mm M5 [[Threaded rod|threaded rods]] (Z axis) || cut from 1m long M5, 3/16”, or ¼” threaded rod || [http://www.doitbest.com/ Do it Best], [http://www.lowes.com/ Lowe’s], [http://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster], [http://www.tractorsupply.com/ Tractor Supply], [http://wickes.co.uk/ Wickes], etc<br />
|-<br />
| Kit with all of the above || i3 specific rods || [http://3dbotshack.com/hardware.html 3dbotshack.com],[http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.com/webshop/catalog/studs-and-bars Charlie’s 3d Technologies], [http://twelvepro.com/ TwelvePro]**<br />
|}<br />
<nowiki>*</nowiki>There are some precision rods on eBay, but most of them are not. If the seller doesn’t have the tolerances listed, then chances are they aren’t high precision.<br />
<br />
<nowiki>**</nowiki>TwelvePro rods are intended for their modified frame, not normal i3s.<br />
<br />
=== Basic 3D Printed Parts ===<br />
<br />
Most kits of 3D printed parts will include an extruder of some type, but for simplicity’s sake I will deal with the extruder options separately. There are several types of belts used in RepRap machines, and the GT2 is used for the i3 design. Images of all the printed parts can be found [[Prusa_i3_Build_Manual#Rapid_Prototype_Parts|here]], and the latest source files are on [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3 GitHub]. Also, apparently [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,178239,235112#msg-235112 the x carriage is different between the box frame style and the single plate style]. This means that an extruder which fits the box style frame may not fit the single plate version, and vice versa. (Is there a discrepancy with other parts to?) Make sure your printed parts match your frame style and extruder type before you buy.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Plastic Parts, excluding extruder<br />
! Part !! Sourcing Options !! Source<br />
|-<br />
| 3D Printed parts (for GT2 Belts and Greg's Wades extruder with Jhead) || Select based on desired extruder and pulleys/belts. ABS softens at a higher temperature, so is good in proximity to motors. PLA is more wear resistant, and so makes longer lasting gears. || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=I3+parts&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xprusa+i3+parts&_nkw=prusa+i3+parts&_sacat=0 eBay], or [[Prusa_i3_Buyers_Guide#Full_kits|i3 printed parts vendors]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Belts and Pulleys ===<br />
<br />
Timing belts (T2.5, T5, etc.) are [[Choosing_Belts_and_Pulleys|highly discouraged]] in favor of GT2 or GT3 belts. Make sure that the belt holder matches the belt you choose. (The belt holder is one of the 3D printed parts above.)<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Sources for Belts and Pulleys<br />
<br />
! Part !! Sourcing Options !! Source<br />
|-<br />
| 2x 6mm wide GT2 [[Belts_and_Pulleys#Belts|belt]] pieces (760? And 900? mm long) 1 for x axis, 1 for y || cut from 2m circumference belt || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=GT2+belt&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0&_nkw=GT2+belt&_sacat=0 eBay],or an [[Belts_and_Pulleys#Belts|appropriate vendor]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2x 6mm wide GT2 [[Belts_and_Pulleys#Pulleys|pulleys]] (should fit 5mm rod) (fox x and y) || pulleys with 12 teeth (more is ok) are recommended for minimum positioning error || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=GT2+belt+pulley&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=GT2+belt+pulley&_sacat=0 eBay], or an [[Belts_and_Pulleys#Pulleys|appropriate vendor]]<br />
|-<br />
| package with all of the above || cut from 2m circumference belt || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=prusa+i3+GT2+belt+pulley&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=prusa+i3+GT2+belt+pulley&_sacat=0 eBay], or an [[Belts_and_Pulleys|appropriate vendor]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Extruder Cold End ===<br />
<br />
There are a number of [[Extruder|extruder cold ends]] available, but not all will fit the i3 unmodified. To be safe, make sure the extruder you decide on is compatible with your version of the i3 (the single plate and the box frame versions have different carriages). When purchasing extruder parts, be sure that they work with the filament diameter you intend to use (aka, 1.75 or 3mm).<br />
<br />
There are no files for an extruder among the official STL files (either [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/tree/master/box_frame/sample_stls/default_box_htd3_lm8uu box] or [https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/tree/master/box_frame/sample_stls/single_plate_htd3_lm8uu single plate]), so there is no official extruder. There is a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:65939 version of Greg’s Wade Extruder], as well as a Bowden extruder (both [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:108273 dual] and [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:108274 quad] versions!), which have been modified to fit the single plate version of the i3. Greg’s Wade Extruder seems to be most common, although the compact/dual extruders appear to work to some degree (Seems to be still under development, as of 2013-8-15). (Note: A compact extruder is essentially half of a dual-extruder, with a few small design changes.)<br />
<br />
Direct drive extruders push filament through the hot end quickly, and can retract it just as quickly to reduce oozing. Higher gearing ratios give more precision (good for smaller nozzle apertures and layer heights) at the cost of slower speed. The lowered motor torque allows smaller, lighter motors.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Greg’s Wade Extruder<br />
<br />
! Part !! Sourcing Options !! Source<br />
|-<br />
| Printed parts (this was likely included in the [[Prusa_i3_Buyers_Guide#Basic_3D_Printed_Parts|Basic 3D Printed Parts section]] above) || || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=greg+wade+extruder&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=greg+wade+extruder&_sacat=0 eBay], [http://3dbotshack.com/gregshingedextruderforprusai3.html 3dbotshack.com USA], <br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | Hobbed bolt, M8 x 60mm (make sure the bolt is hobbed at the desired location. If using 1.75mm filament, be sure the cuts are shallow enough to catch) || Precut hobbes || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=wade+hobbed&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=wade+hobbed&_sacat=0 eBay], [http://3dbotshack.com/hobbedbolt.html 3dbotshack.com USA] <br />
|-<br />
| Local hardware store ([http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23717 cut hobbes yourself], if you have the equipment) || Ace Hardware, Do it Best, [http://www.homedepot.com/p/8-mm-1-25-x-60-mm-Zinc-Plated-Metric-Hex-Bolt-36038/202209668?keyword=M8+60mm Home Depot], Lowe’s, Wickes, etc.<br />
|-<br />
| 3x 608zz [[Ball_bearing|bearings]] || for bulk discount, purchase with 608 bearings from the [[Prusa_i3_Buyers_Guide#Hardware|hardware section]] below || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=608+bearings&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0&_nkw=608+bearings&_sacat=0 eBay], or any of [[Ball_bearing#Vendors|these suppliers]]<br />
|-<br />
| Smooth 8mmx20mm [[Smooth_rod|bar]] (axle for idler) || cut from the excess left over from making the rods. || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=i3+rod+rods&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=i3+rod+rods&_sacat=0 eBay]*, [http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Metal-Sheets-Rods/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ25ecodZc2b9/Ntk-All/Ntt-5%252F16%2522%2Brod/h_d2/Navigation?Ntx=mode%20matchall&catalogId=10053&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&langId=-1&storeId=10051&primarySearchOnly=true&currentPLP=true&omni=c_Metal%20Sheets%20&%20Rods&searchNav=true Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/Hardware/Structural-Hardware/Metal-Rounds/_/N-1z0xzpc/pl?Ntt=5%2F16#! Lowes], [http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplay?searchTermScope=&searchType=1000&filterTerm=&orderBy=&maxPrice=&showResultsPage=true&langId=-1&beginIndex=0&sType=SimpleSearch&metaData=&pageSize=20&searchPageType=&manufacturer=&resultCatEntryType=2&catalogId=10051&pageView=image&searchTerm=smooth+rod&minPrice=&storeId=10151&viewType= Tractor Supply], [http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/188299 Wickes], etc<br />
|-<br />
| 4x M4 springs (optional) || Some people prefer rubber matt or lock washers || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=wade+M4+spring&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xwade+spring&_nkw=wade+spring&_sacat=0 eBay]<br />
|-<br />
| Other miscellaneous hardware || assorted nuts and bolts, in accordance with which design you choose || Local hardware store<br />
|-<br />
| Full kit with all of the above|| || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=greg+wade+extruder&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=greg+wade+extruder&_sacat=0 eBay]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
Note: Nuts, bolts, etc may vary slightly depending on exact extruder design. If you can’t find what hardware to get, go with the above plus a couple M3 screws 30-40mm long some M4 screws 20mm long, and nuts/bolts/washers to fit (including locking nuts). Get a bunch of washers for the M8 bolt in case you need to use them as spacers.<br />
<br />
==== Raldrich Geared Stepper Extruder ====<br />
<br />
This extruder that was listed in an early i3 Bill of Materials. Is it the official i3 extruder?<br />
<br />
==== Compact Dual Extruder (experimental) ====<br />
<br />
Both the Compact and the Dual Compact Extruder require 42BYG48HJ50 geared motors instead of standard NEMA 17 motors. The motors used in development were sourced from [http://www.2engineers.com/shop/ 2engineers], which has since changed their design. [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,178239,179988#msg-179988 A PG35L might be adapted], and could be sourced from [http://www.nmbtc.com/motors/part-numbers/Permanent-Magnet-Stepper-with-Gearbox?data%5Bpg%5D=9&data%5B172%21%5D=&data%5B173%21%5D= NMB Minebea]. Two sets of [[Drive-gear|drive-gears]], 608 bearings, bar axles, springs, and assorted nuts and bolts are also required for the extruder. Details surrounding the compact dual extruder are scarce. [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,116114,134625 Several people appear to have “working” hardware], but so far [http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Software/Parts/Dual_Extruder the software is still under development].<br />
<br />
Applications include dissolvable support material, printed electronics (using off the shelf conductive filament), [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,116114,128319#msg-128319 faster high-detail printing], composite materials (living hinges, etc.), as well as multi-color prints. Full color printers would be better served by [[Coloring_filament|dyeing the filament]] or by using a [[Mixer_extruder|mixer extruder]] or [http://richrap.com/ RichRap extruder].<br />
<br />
==== I3ext by SGraber ====<br />
<br />
Machined drive gear and geared drive from stepper to filament driver. This is a derivative of the one Josef Prusa uses in his build workshops. It has been reworked to accept a Jhead-compatible hotend and use a standard MK7 hobbed pulley. Github repository is here: https://github.com/sgraber/i3ext<br />
<br />
=== Extruder Hot End ===<br />
<br />
First of all, the hotend must fit to your extruder cold end.<br />
<br />
You also have a couple options when it comes to the extruder hot end. The J-head extruder was designed so that it could be machined all in one piece. This makes it cheaper and more reliable, but means you need a J-head for each nozzle diameter you want to print with. (They do have exchangeable PTFE liners for different filament diameters.) Having a separate nozzle, heater block, barrel, and PTFE sleeve allows the user to mix and match filament size and nozzle diameters on a whim.<br />
<br />
; [[J Head Nozzle]]<br />
: Widely used hotend, fine for [[ABS]] and [[PLA]]. <br />
<br />
; [[MG Plus]]<br />
<br />
; [[Aluhotend]]<br />
<br />
; [[Ubis]]<br />
: Same mount as Jhead.<br />
<br />
; [[E3D]]<br />
: All Metal hotend.<br />
<br />
a semi complete list of other hotends can be found here [[Hot_End]]<br />
<br />
=== Electronics ===<br />
<br />
About any RapRap electronics can be used. If a dual extruder is used, an electronics supporting this is required, of course. See the [[Comparison of Electronics]], [[Alternative Electronics]] and [[List of electronics]] pages for more info.<br />
<br />
=== Bed ===<br />
<br />
The build surface is chosen so that the printed filament adheres to it. Various tapes can be used, and have the advantage of being easy to remove from both the piece and the bed underneath. Glass provides poor adhesion, however hairspray or a glue-stick can be used to make a good bond.<br />
<br />
The bed doesn’t necessarily have to be heated. If the first few layers of a print cool non uniformly, they have a tendency to curl up like a potato chip. Heating the bed greatly minimizes this problem.<br />
<br />
Printed Circuit Boards are the most common type of heated bed. They must be etched from 35µm copper clad silicon, NOT plated. Non-uniform copper will not heat evenly. For especially tall/thin parts, a heated build chamber can be used to reduce warping. If using an aluminum frame, you may want to [[Heated_bed#Thermal_Insulation|insulate the bottom]] to improve heating rate and max bed temperature. See http://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed for more information on bed construction.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Bed Parts<br />
<br />
! Part !! Sourcing Options !! Source<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="5" | (Optional, but highly recommended) [[Heated_Bed#Heater_types|Heated bed]] (generally 214x214mm) || [[PCB_Heatbed|PCB Heated Bed]] (Most uniform heating. May require LEDs and wires) || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.XReprap+heated+bed&_nkw=Reprap+heated+bed&_sacat=0&_from=R40 eBay], or [[PCB_Heatbed#Where_to_get_it|see vendor list]]<br />
|-<br />
| [[Heated_Bed#Stripboard_PCB_as_a_heating_Element|Stripboard PCB heating element]] (cheap, but effective) || [http://www.veroboard.com/4x10-4000l-phenolic-pitch-01-254mm-p-28.html VeroBoard]<br />
|-<br />
| Repurposed heaters (hot-plate, motorcycle grip heater, Silicone heating mat, polyimide film heater, clothes iron, etc.) || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=motorcycle+grip+heater&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=motorcycle+grip+heater&_sacat=0 eBay]<br />
|-<br />
| Heat bed with Aluminum clad resistors (TO220 Resistors fail eventually) || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=aluminum+resistors&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=aluminum+resistors&_sacat=0 eBay]<br />
|-<br />
| Heat bed by [[Mendel_heated_bed|taping down uninsulated wire]] with Kapton tape (nichrome wire or other) || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=nichrome+wire&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=nichrome+wire&_sacat=0 eBay]<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| rowspan="4" | [[Bed_material|Bed Material]]/build surface (if using glass/ceramic/metal without tape, you may want to coat with strong hairspray, [[Build_surface#PVAc_Glue|PVAc glue]] or a [[Build_surface#Glue_Stick|glue-stick]] to promote adhesion.) || [[Heated_Bed#Glass|Glass plate/mirror]] (you can buy precut, or cut it yourself) || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=reprap+glass&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=reprap+glass&_sacat=0 eBay]<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| [[Heated_Bed#Metal|Metal]] (heats evenly, but thin metal warps) || [http://www.acehardware.com/search/index.jsp?view=full&fbn=Taxonomy%7CMetal+Sheets&fbc=1&origkw=sheet&sr=1&kwCatId=&kw=sheet&lmdn=Category&kwCatId=&kw=sheet&origkw=sheet&sr=1&f=Taxonomy%2FACE%2F2568451&lmdn=Category&f=Taxonomy%2FACE%2F2624969&lmdn=Category&f=Taxonomy%2FACE%2F2625784&lmdn=Category&f=Taxonomy%2FACE%2F2625950&lmdn=Category Ace Hardware], [http://www.doitbest.com/4294966390-Metal+sheets.dib Do it Best], [http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZc27v/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051 Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/Sheet-Metal/_/N-1z0xzpd/pl?rpp=32&UserSearch=sheet+metal#! Lowe’s], etc.<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| [[Heated_Bed#Ceramic|Ceramic tile]] (Easier to cut/drill than glass, but heats up slowly) || [http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZarsz/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051&searchRedirect=ceramic+tile&cm_sp=searchredirect%2d%5f%2dceramic%5ftile%5fFLCAT%2d%5f%2dx%2d%5f%2dx&redAB=A Home Depot], [http://www.lowes.com/Flooring/Tile-Stone/_/N-1z11oi6/pl?Ntt=ceramic+tile#! Lowe’s], [http://search.wickes.co.uk/search#ts=ajax&method=and&w=ceramic%20tile&isort=score Wickes], etc.<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| Tape ([[Kapton_Tape|kapton]] or [[BlueTape|masking tape]]) || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=kapton+tape&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=kapton+tape&_sacat=0 eBay], or pretty much anywhere<br />
|- <br />
| 4x binder clips || Something to hold the build surface in place (if needed ) || [http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=binder%20clip Amazon], [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=binder+clips&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=binder+clips&_sacat=0 eBay], [http://www.staples.com/binder+clip/directory_binder+clip Staples], etc<br />
|- style="background: white" <br />
| Thermistor (required for heated bed) || You may want to purchase this from the same source as your hot end thermistor || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=reprap+thermistor&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0&_nkw=reprap+thermistor&_sacat=0 eBay]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Hardware ===<br />
<br />
I could only find two sources for this. One is an [[http://www.kitbom.com/eric.beland/prusa-i3-prerelease/build-view outdated, unofficial, and untested bill of materials]]. The other is the [[Prusa_i3_Rework_Bill_of_materials|BOM for the i3 Rework]]. I have noted the discrepancies below. Once I build my I3, I will try to update this list with any additions/changes.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Mechanical Parts<br />
<br />
! Part !! Sourcing Options !! Source<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | 10x linear bearings/bushings (7 for x axis, 3 for y) || LM8UU [[Linear_bearing|linear bearings]] || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=LM8UU&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC1.A0&_nkw=LM8UU&_sacat=0 eBay], or [[Linear_bearing#Vendors|see vendor list]]<br />
|-<br />
| 3D Printed [[PLA bushings]], or [[Bushing|commercial bushings]] (quiet, but lowers positioning precision. You will need a way of attaching them) || Print own, or [[Bushing#Vendors|see vendor list]]<br />
|- style="background: white"<br />
| 2x [[Ball_bearing|ball bearings]] (608 or 624 for x and y belts, depending on design. Cold end will require additional bearings) || ZZ are the most common, although [[Ball_bearing#Types|2RS or VV may be preferable for a milling and drilling head]]. || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=608+bearings&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0&_nkw=608+bearings&_sacat=0 eBay], or [[Ball_bearing#Vendors|see vendor list]]<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="3" | 2x couplers (z-axis) || 5x5mm steel couplers || [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=5x5+couplers&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=5x5+couplers&_sacat=0 eBay], or [[RepRap_Buyers%27_Guide|somewhere with RepRap parts]]<br />
|-<br />
| 3d printed couplers ([[Easy Reliable Coupler]], [[Auto-centering_shaft_coupler|auto-centering coupler]], etc) || ???<br />
|-<br />
| Stretch 4?mm ID plastic tubing over 5mm rod and motor shaft ||<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ Nuts and Bolts<br />
<br />
! Part !! Sourcing Options !! Source<br />
|-<br />
| || <br />
|-<br />
| 18x M3x10mm bolt (12 for motors, 6 for endstops) || ||<br />
|-<br />
| 14x M3x30mm bolt (10 for linear bearings, 4x for heated bed || ||<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | 28x M3 nuts (10 for linear bearings, 12 for heated bed, 6 for endstops) || non-locking ||<br />
|-<br />
| nyloc ||<br />
|-<br />
| 54x M3 washers (optional, 20 for linear bearings, 16 for heated bed, 12 for motors, 6 for endstops) || ||<br />
|-<br />
| 5x M4x20mm bolt (2 for x/y-axis tensioners, 3 for endstops) || preferably thumb screw for easy tightening ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2x M4x25mm bolt (x/y-axis tensioners) || ||<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | 7x M4 nuts (4 for x/y-axis tensioners, 3 for endstops) || 2x must be non-locking ||<br />
|-<br />
| 5x can be nyloc ||<br />
|-<br />
| 10x M4 washers (optional, 4 for x/y-axis tensioners, 6 for endstops) || ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2x M5 nuts (x/z-axis) || must be non-locking ||<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | 22x M8 nuts (y-axis threaded rods) || non-locking ||<br />
|-<br />
| nyloc ||<br />
|-<br />
| 22x M8 Washers (optional, for y-axis threaded rods) || ||<br />
|-<br />
| rowspan="2" | 12x M10 nuts (y-axis threaded rods) || non-locking ||<br />
|-<br />
| nyloc ||<br />
|-<br />
| 12x M10 washers (optional, for y-axis threaded rods) || ||<br />
|-<br />
| 4x Zip Ties (optional, for belts) || small ||<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Prusa i3]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PCB_Heatbed&diff=53664PCB Heatbed2012-01-28T21:09:00Z<p>Prusajr: Bullshit, both images show plated holes. Corrected it.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|description = PCB Heatbed<br />
|status = working<br />
|author = Josef Průša<br />
|reprap = mendel/darwin/repstraps<br />
|cadModel = [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
|categories = [[Category:Heated Bed]]<br />
|image = PCB_HEATBED.jpg<br />
|url = http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==WARNING==<br />
<span style="color:red;>"'''WARNING!!!'''<br />
Be aware from where you buying the PCB heatbeds!!<br />
There is one critical thing, the heatbed must be etched directly from 35um copper clad! ASK YOUR SELLER!!!<br />
If the board is plated, as it's normally done, no manufacturer can guarantee the final thickness of copper or even how even the copper is around the board.<br />
Which means that the final power wont be evenly distributed around the board or the board wont have high enough output generally. <br />
<br />
'''Main warning sign are plated holes! Plating of holes requires copper plating.'''<br />
<br />
Both of this images shows plated holes.<br />
<br />
[[File:UnplatedHoles.jpg| 300px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Plated_holes.jpg| 300px]]<br />
<br />
</span><br />
<br />
==About==<br />
<br />
PCB Heatbed MK1 is developed by Josef Průša<br />
<br />
I was working on this idea for nearly six months, inspired by [http://neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 ].<br />
<br />
==Where to get it==<br />
The .brd file is available here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
<br />
(Please note that I dont get any provision from these :-))<br />
Manufactured PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
=== EU ===<br />
RepRapSource (Germany) http://www.reprapsource.com/en/shop/show/6403<br />
<br />
Cubic Print (Germany) http://www.cubic-print.com/PCB-heated-bed<br />
<br />
=== USA ===<br />
Ultimachine http://ultimachine.com/content/prusa-pcb-heated-bed<br />
<br />
MakerGear http://www.makergear.com/products/3d-printers<br />
<br />
Lulzbot http://www.lulzbot.com/en/14-heated-print-bed.html<br />
<br />
==Printing==<br />
<br />
<br />
Cover the bed with kapton tape. Degrease it and print.<br />
<br />
ABS temp: 110°C<br />
PLA temp: 50-60°C<br />
<br />
MAKE SURE YOUR PSU HAS 10 MORE AMPS SPARE!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
==Mounting==<br />
<br />
<br />
Known working solution, I (prusajr) use is Glass sheet (3mm) with glued on cork standoffs and on top of that is glued the heatbed.<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919911/<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919707/<br />
<br />
We are now working on simpler mounting solution!<br />
''Josef, are you referring to this solution? -'' http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
When mounted only using the four corners, the inherent warp of the pcb can be a problem, hence it is better to use the cork mounting system above (as the piece of cork in the centre helps to keep the pcb flat).<br />
Magnets can be used in replace of the cork, this makes the bed removable. However, I (mooneyj) have only tried this on a darwin type printer (where the build platform only moves in z). During fast printing, the darwin vibrates and it seems the heatbed magnets slide over each other slightly. The acceleration of the y axis on a mendel may cause the magnets to slide also. Perhaps a hybrid of magnet and bolt mounting would work well?.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': According to the Eagle file posted on Thingiverse, the M3 holes are spaced 209 mm<br />
<br />
==Sides==<br />
<br />
PCB Bed has two sides, one with the traces (bottom side) and one with silkscreen (top).<br />
<br />
Printing on top side is safer, works great.<br />
<br />
Printing on bottom is more effective and heats up quicker. (Though the LED, resistor and wire connections are liable to collision with the print head. Also the tracks could be damaged if the print head collides. Make sure your z-bed-springs are not too strong to prevent damage during a collision).<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Connection==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Optional LEDs===<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resistor.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Mount the LEDs in different directions (polarity) so that one of the LEDs will light up regardless of the board's polarity. You can use a single LED if you are certain of the polarity.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED_DIAGRAM.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Electronics===<br />
''RAMPS''<br />
There are two ways to power the heatbed:<br />
1) You can omit the fuse on the board and use one of the mosfet outputs.<br />
2) Plug one heatbed wire to the GND pin on the mosfet output on RAMPS and connect the 12V+ separately to your powersupply. (Better)<br />
<br />
''Sanguinolou''<br />
The MK2 PCB heatbed heats up to 110C when powered through the heated bed connection on Sanguinolou, your power supply should be 300W and ensure your wires from your power supply to the Sanguinololu should be capable of handling the total draw of 20A+. Using a 300W ATX power supply with the 4wire ATX dual 12V connector is working well for me.<br />
<br />
N.B. It is recommended that you use a heatsink on your heated bed mosfet, it will get hot!<br />
<br />
==Testing==<br />
<br />
Its now in working state, Printed load of kits on it, working great.<br />
<br />
<br />
Main Idea is to use resistance of pcb traces as heating element.<br />
<br />
The following video shows a PCB heatbed MK2 being heated to 60 degrees as seen by an infrared camera:<br />
<videoflash>QE90bDUaAno</videoflash><br />
<br />
== FORKS (not done by Prusa)==<br />
<br />
=== MK2 ===<br />
(It's not successor of MK1 even with it's name. It's concurrent design. - Josef Prusa)<br />
<br />
==== About ====<br />
<br />
'''MK2 Heatbed - Minor changes by Tony Lock'''<br />
<br />
I liked Josef's original design but wanted to be able to use through hole components, have the thermistor poke through the middle and for it to look good on the 'back' with the silkscreen that Josef designed on that side as well.<br />
<br />
====Where to get it ====<br />
The MK2 .brd file is available here: [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2.brd]]<br />
<br />
Manufactured MK2 PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.me/RepRap-PCB-Heatbed-MK2 www.RepRap.me]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=heated+bed+reprap&_sacat=See-All-Categories#ptm eBay]<br />
<br />
[http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=126 eMakerShop]<br />
<br />
==== Printing ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
Although you can print directly to the bed covered in polyimide tape, no PCB is perfectly flat. It is recommended that you follow the directions in mounting, below, for better results.<br />
<br />
==== Mounting ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The MK2 board can be mounted either side up and is designed to be mounted as Josef describes:<br />
<br />
http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
The holes in the 4 corners to attach the heated bed MK2 to the top print plate are not suitable for M3 bolts though! Use M2.5 instead.<br />
<br />
The glass protects the tracks from a head crash and is easily swapped out.<br />
<br />
The board dimensions are identical to the MK1 design.<br />
<br />
Insulation between the board and the thick plate should improve heat-up times and reduce energy consumption. An example is here:<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_heated_bed#Thermal_Insulation<br />
<br />
''Caution, I have not tried this with the temperatures that the PCB bed can reach!''<br />
<br />
====Sides====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The PCB still has a side with the traces on and a side without but now the silkscreen is on both the top and bottom, this makes it look good even when 'upside down' under a layer of glass. The LED, resistor and power wires can be mounted on either side of the board, with either surface mount or through hole components. If you are using through hole be careful when soldering to not have overhang on the other side of the board that could interfere with the glass and introduce a gap between the glass and the PCB.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_front_small.jpg]]<br />
<br />
There is a central hole in the board (similar to this one http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1).<br />
It is sized so a small thermistor<br />
(for example the EPCOS one: http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=3878697 ) will fit though it allowing contact directly with the glass.<br />
''todo: test efficacy of using heat sink compound to better thermally couple the thermistor to the glass''<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_therm_hole.jpg| 200px]]<br />
<br />
====Connection====<br />
Polarity doesn't affect the PCB, however the LEDs have a polarity.<br />
<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
There are pads and plated through holes for connecting the power wires, ensure that the wire you use is thick enough for 10A. It is a good idea to think about strain relief so your moving build platform does not flex the joint, this can lead to failure of the joint over time. I recommend routing the wire from the heated bed to strain relief on the thick sheet before routing it to your controller/power supply. ''todo: get pictures of strain relief''<br />
<br />
[[File:UnplatedHoles.jpg| 300px]]<br />
<br />
=====Optional LEDs=====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resistor.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs (traditional wired LEDs may also be used)<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor <br />
<br />
With the MK2 traditional wired parts can be substituted for the Surface Mount parts.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PCB_Heatbed&diff=48545PCB Heatbed2011-12-03T15:31:45Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|description = PCB Heatbed<br />
|status = working<br />
|author = Josef Průša<br />
|reprap = mendel/darwin/repstraps<br />
|cadModel = [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
|categories = [[Category:Heated Bed]]<br />
|image = PCB_HEATBED.jpg<br />
|url = http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==WARNING==<br />
<span style="color:red;>"'''WARNING!!!'''<br />
Be aware from where you buying the PCB heatbeds!!<br />
There is one critical thing, the heatbed must be etched directly from 35um copper clad! ASK YOUR SELLER!!!<br />
If the board is plated, as it's normally done, no manufacturer can guarantee the final thickness of copper or even how even the copper is around the board.<br />
Which means that the final power wont be evenly distributed around the board or the board wont have high enough output generally. <br />
<br />
'''Main warning sign are plated holes! Plating of holes requires copper plating.'''<br />
</span><br />
<br />
==About==<br />
<br />
PCB Heatbed MK1 is developed by Josef Průša<br />
<br />
I was working on this idea for nearly six months, inspired by [http://neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 ].<br />
<br />
==Where to get it==<br />
The .brd file is available here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
<br />
(Please note that I dont get any provision from these :-))<br />
Manufactured PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
=== EU ===<br />
RepRapSource (Germany) http://www.reprapsource.com/en/shop/show/6403<br />
<br />
Cubic Print (Germany) http://www.cubic-print.com/PCB-heated-bed<br />
<br />
=== USA ===<br />
Ultimachine http://ultimachine.com/content/prusa-pcb-heated-bed<br />
<br />
MakerGear http://www.makergear.com/products/3d-printers<br />
<br />
Lulzbot http://www.lulzbot.com/en/14-heated-print-bed.html<br />
<br />
==Printing==<br />
<br />
<br />
Cover the bed with kapton tape. Degrease it and print.<br />
<br />
ABS temp: 110°C<br />
PLA temp: 50-60°C<br />
<br />
MAKE SURE YOUR PSU HAS 10 MORE AMPS SPARE!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
==Mounting==<br />
<br />
<br />
Known working solution, I (prusajr) use is Glass sheet (3mm) with glued on cork standoffs and on top of that is glued the heatbed.<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919911/<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919707/<br />
<br />
We are now working on simpler mounting solution!<br />
''Josef, are you referring to this solution? -'' http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
When mounted only using the four corners, the inherent warp of the pcb can be a problem, hence it is better to use the cork mounting system above (as the piece of cork in the centre helps to keep the pcb flat).<br />
Magnets can be used in replace of the cork, this makes the bed removable. However, I (mooneyj) have only tried this on a darwin type printer (where the build platform only moves in z). During fast printing, the darwin vibrates and it seems the heatbed magnets slide over each other slightly. The acceleration of the y axis on a mendel may cause the magnets to slide also. Perhaps a hybrid of magnet and bolt mounting would work well?.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': According to the Eagle file posted on Thingiverse, the M3 holes are spaced 209 mm<br />
<br />
==Sides==<br />
<br />
PCB Bed has two sides, one with the traces (bottom side) and one with silkscreen (top).<br />
<br />
Printing on top side is safer, works great.<br />
<br />
Printing on bottom is more effective and heats up quicker. (Though the LED, resistor and wire connections are liable to collision with the print head. Also the tracks could be damaged if the print head collides. Make sure your z-bed-springs are not too strong to prevent damage during a collision).<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Connection==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Optional LEDs===<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resistor.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Mount the LEDs in different directions (polarity) so that one of the LEDs will light up regardless of the board's polarity. You can use a single LED if you are certain of the polarity.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED_DIAGRAM.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Electronics===<br />
''RAMPS''<br />
There are two ways to power the heatbed:<br />
1) You can omit the fuse on the board and use one of the mosfet outputs.<br />
2) Plug one heatbed wire to the GND pin on the mosfet output on RAMPS and connect the 12V+ separately to your powersupply. (Better)<br />
<br />
''Sanguinolou''<br />
The MK2 PCB heatbed heats up to 110C when powered through the heated bed connection on Sanguinolou, your power supply should be 300W and ensure your wires from your power supply to the Sanguinololu should be capable of handling the total draw of 20A+. Using a 300W ATX power supply with the 4wire ATX dual 12V connector is working well for me.<br />
<br />
N.B. It is recommended that you use a heatsink on your heated bed mosfet, it will get hot!<br />
<br />
==Testing==<br />
<br />
Its now in working state, Printed load of kits on it, working great.<br />
<br />
<br />
Main Idea is to use resistance of pcb traces as heating element.<br />
<br />
<br />
== FORKS (not done by Prusa)==<br />
<br />
=== MK2 ===<br />
(It's not successor of MK1 even with it's name. It's concurrent design. - Josef Prusa)<br />
<br />
==== About ====<br />
<br />
'''MK2 Heatbed - Minor changes by Tony Lock'''<br />
<br />
I liked Josef's original design but wanted to be able to use through hole components, have the thermistor poke through the middle and for it to look good on the 'back' with the silkscreen that Josef designed on that side as well.<br />
<br />
====Where to get it ====<br />
The MK2 .brd file is available here: [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2.brd]]<br />
<br />
Manufactured MK2 PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=heated+bed+reprap&_sacat=See-All-Categories#ptm eBay]<br />
<br />
[http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=126 eMakerShop]<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Printing ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
Although you can print directly to the bed covered in polyamide tape, no PCB is perfectly flat. It is recommended that you follow the directions in mounting, below, for better results.<br />
<br />
==== Mounting ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The MK2 board can be mounted either side up and is designed to be mounted as Josef describes:<br />
<br />
http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
The holes in the 4 corners to attach the heated bed MK2 to the top print plate are not suitable for M3 bolts though! Use M2.5 instead.<br />
<br />
The glass protects the tracks from a head crash and is easily swapped out.<br />
<br />
The board dimensions are identical to the MK1 design.<br />
<br />
Insulation between the board and the thick plate should improve heat-up times and reduce energy consumption. An example is here:<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_heated_bed#Thermal_Insulation<br />
<br />
''Caution, I have not tried this with the temperatures that the PCB bed can reach!''<br />
<br />
====Sides====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The PCB still has a side with the traces on and a side without but now the silkscreen is on both the top and bottom, this makes it look good even when 'upside down' under a layer of glass. The LED, resistor and power wires can be mounted on either side of the board, with either surface mount or through hole components. If you are using through hole be careful when soldering to not have overhang on the other side of the board that could interfere with the glass and introduce a gap between the glass and the PCB.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_front_small.jpg]]<br />
<br />
There is a central hole in the board (similar to this one http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1).<br />
It is sized so a small thermistor<br />
(for example the EPCOS one: http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=3878697 ) will fit though it allowing contact directly with the glass.<br />
''todo: test efficacy of using heat sink compound to better thermally couple the thermistor to the glass''<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_therm_hole.jpg| 200px]]<br />
<br />
====Connection====<br />
Polarity doesn't affect the PCB, however the LEDs have a polarity.<br />
<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
There are pads and plated through holes for connecting the power wires, ensure that the wire you use is thick enough for 10A. It is a good idea to think about strain relief so your moving build platform does not flex the joint, this can lead to failure of the joint over time. I recommend routing the wire from the heated bed to strain relief on the thick sheet before routing it to your controller/power supply. ''todo: get pictures of strain relief''<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB Heatbed MK2 connections.jpg| 300px]]<br />
<br />
=====Optional LEDs=====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resistor.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs (traditional wired LEDs may also be used)<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor <br />
<br />
With the MK2 traditional wired parts can be substituted for the Surface Mount parts.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PCB_Heatbed&diff=44428PCB Heatbed2011-11-03T10:01:57Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|description = PCB Heatbed<br />
|status = working<br />
|author = Josef Průša<br />
|reprap = mendel/darwin/repstraps<br />
|cadModel = [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2.brd]]<br />
|categories = [[Category:Heated Bed]]<br />
|image = PCB_HEATBED.jpg<br />
|url = http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==WARNING==<br />
<span style="color:red;>"'''WARNING!!!'''<br />
Be aware from where you buying the PCB heatbeds!!<br />
There is one critical thing, the heatbed must be etched directly from 35um copper clad! ASK YOUR SELLER!!!<br />
If the board is plated, as it's normally done, no manufacturer can guarantee the final thickness of copper or even how even the copper is around the board.<br />
Which means that the final power wont be evenly distributed around the board or the board wont have high enough output generally. <br />
<br />
'''Main warning sign are plated holes! Plating of holes requires copper plating.'''<br />
</span><br />
<br />
==About==<br />
<br />
PCB Heatbed MK1 is developed by Josef Průša<br />
<br />
I was working on this idea for nearly six months, inspired by [http://neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 ].<br />
<br />
==Where to get it==<br />
The .brd file is available here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
<br />
(Please note that I dont get any provision from these :-))<br />
Manufactured PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
=== EU ===<br />
RepRapSource (Germany) http://www.reprapsource.com/en/shop/show/6403<br />
<br />
=== USA ===<br />
Ultimachine http://ultimachine.com/content/prusa-pcb-heated-bed<br />
<br />
MakerGear http://www.makergear.com/products/3d-printers<br />
<br />
Lulzbot http://www.lulzbot.com/en/14-heated-print-bed.html<br />
<br />
==Printing==<br />
<br />
<br />
Cover the bed with kapton tape. Degrease it and print.<br />
<br />
ABS temp: 110°C<br />
PLA temp: 50-60°C<br />
<br />
MAKE SURE YOUR PSU HAS 10 MORE AMPS SPARE!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
==Mounting==<br />
<br />
<br />
Known working solution, I (prusajr) use is Glass sheet (3mm) with glued on cork standoffs and on top of that is glued the heatbed.<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919911/<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919707/<br />
<br />
We are now working on simpler mounting solution!<br />
''Josef, are you referring to this solution? -'' http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
When mounted only using the four corners, the inherent warp of the pcb can be a problem, hence it is better to use the cork mounting system above (as the piece of cork in the centre helps to keep the pcb flat).<br />
Magnets can be used in replace of the cork, this makes the bed removable. However, I (mooneyj) have only tried this on a darwin type printer (where the build platform only moves in z). During fast printing, the darwin vibrates and it seems the heatbed magnets slide over each other slightly. The acceleration of the y axis on a mendel may cause the magnets to slide also. Perhaps a hybrid of magnet and bolt mounting would work well?.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': According to the Eagle file posted on Thingiverse, the M3 holes are spaced 209 mm<br />
<br />
==Sides==<br />
<br />
PCB Bed has two sides, one with the traces (bottom side) and one with silkscreen (top).<br />
<br />
Printing on top side is safer, works great.<br />
<br />
Printing on bottom is more effective and heats up quicker. (Though the LED, resistor and wire connections are liable to collision with the print head. Also the tracks could be damaged if the print head collides. Make sure your z-bed-springs are not to strong to prevent damage during a collision).<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Connection==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Optional LEDs===<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resister.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Mount the LEDs in different directions (polarity) so that one of the LEDs will light up regardless of the board's polarity. You can use a single LED if you are certain of the polarity.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED_DIAGRAM.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Electronics===<br />
''RAMPS''<br />
There are two ways to power the heatbed:<br />
1) You can omit the fuse on the board and use one of the mosfet outputs.<br />
2) Plug one heatbed wire to the GND pin on the mosfet output on RAMPS and connect the 12V+ separately to your powersupply. (Better)<br />
<br />
''Sanguinolou''<br />
The MK2 PCB heatbed heats up to 110C when powered through the heated bed connection on Sanguinolou, your power supply should be 300W and ensure your wires from your power supply to the Sanguinololu should be capable of handling the total draw of 20A+. Using a 300W ATX power supply with the 4wire ATX dual 12V connector is working well for me.<br />
<br />
N.B. It is recommended that you use a heatsink on your heated bed mosfet, it will get hot!<br />
<br />
==Testing==<br />
<br />
Its now in working state, Printed load of kits on it, working great.<br />
<br />
<br />
Main Idea is to use resistance of pcb traces as heating element.<br />
<br />
<br />
== FORKS (not done by Prusa)==<br />
<br />
=== MK2 ===<br />
(It's not successor of MK1 even with it's name. It's concurrent design. - Josef Prusa)<br />
<br />
==== About ====<br />
<br />
'''MK2 Heatbed - Minor changes by Tony Lock'''<br />
<br />
I liked Josef's original design but wanted to be able to use through hole components, have the thermistor poke through the middle and for it to look good on the 'back' with the silkscreen that Josef designed on that side as well.<br />
<br />
====Where to get it ====<br />
The MK2 .brd file is available here: [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2.brd]]<br />
<br />
Manufactured MK2 PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=heated+bed+reprap&_sacat=See-All-Categories#ptm eBay]<br />
<br />
[http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=126 eMakerShop]<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Printing ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
Although you can print directly to the bed covered in polyamide tape, no PCB is perfectly flat. It is recommended that you follow the directions in mounting, below, for better results.<br />
<br />
==== Mounting ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The MK2 board can be mounted either side up and is designed to be mounted as Josef describes:<br />
<br />
http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
The glass protects the tracks from a head crash and is easily swapped out.<br />
<br />
The board dimensions are identical to the MK1 design.<br />
<br />
Insulation between the board and the thick plate should improve heat-up times and reduce energy consumption. An example is here:<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_heated_bed#Thermal_Insulation<br />
<br />
''Caution, I have not tried this with the temperatures that the PCB bed can reach!''<br />
<br />
====Sides====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The PCB still has a side with the traces on and a side without but now the silkscreen is on both the top and bottom, this makes it look good even when 'upside down' under a layer of glass. The LED, resistor and power wires can be mounted on either side of the board, with either surface mount or through hole components. If you are using through hole be careful when soldering to not have overhang on the other side of the board that could interfere with the glass and introduce a gap between the glass and the PCB.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_front_small.jpg]]<br />
<br />
There is a central hole in the board (similar to this one http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1).<br />
It is sized so a small thermistor<br />
(for example the EPCOS one: http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=3878697 ) will fit though it allowing contact directly with the glass.<br />
''todo: test efficacy of using heat sink compound to better thermally couple the thermistor to the glass''<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_therm_hole.jpg| 200px]]<br />
<br />
====Connection====<br />
Polarity doesn't affect the PCB, however the LEDs have a polarity.<br />
<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
There are pads and plated through holes for connecting the power wires, ensure that the wire you use is thick enough for 10A. It is a good idea to think about strain relief so your moving build platform does not flex the joint, this can lead to failure of the joint over time. I recommend routing the wire from the heated bed to strain relief on the thick sheet before routing it to your controller/power supply. ''todo: get pictures of strain relief''<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB Heatbed MK2 connections.jpg| 300px]]<br />
<br />
=====Optional LEDs=====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resister.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs (traditional wired LEDs may also be used)<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor <br />
<br />
With the MK2 traditional wired parts can be substituted for the Surface Mount parts.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PCB_Heatbed&diff=44427PCB Heatbed2011-11-03T09:42:43Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|description = PCB Heatbed<br />
|status = working<br />
|author = Josef Průša<br />
|reprap = mendel/darwin/repstraps<br />
|cadModel = [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2.brd]]<br />
|categories = [[Category:Heated Bed]]<br />
|image = PCB_HEATBED.jpg<br />
|url = http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==WARNING==<br />
<span style="color:red;>"'''WARNING!!!'''<br />
Be aware from where you buying the PCB heatbeds!!<br />
There is one critical thing, the heatbed must be etched directly from 35um copper clad! ASK YOUR SELLER!!!<br />
If the board is plated, as it's normally done, no manufacturer can guarantee the final thickness of copper or even how even the copper is around the board.<br />
Which means that the final power wont be evenly distributed around the board or the board wont have high enough output generally. <br />
<br />
'''Main warning sign are plated holes! Plating of holes requires copper plating.'''<br />
</span><br />
<br />
==About==<br />
<br />
PCB Heatbed MK1 is developed by Josef Průša<br />
<br />
I was working on this idea for nearly six months, inspired by [http://neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 ].<br />
<br />
==Where to get it==<br />
The MK2 .brd file is available here: [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2.brd]]<br />
<br />
Manufactured MK2 PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=heated+bed+reprap&_sacat=See-All-Categories#ptm eBay]<br />
<br />
[http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=126 eMakerShop]<br />
<br />
==Printing==<br />
<br />
<br />
Cover the bed with kapton tape. Degrease it and print.<br />
<br />
ABS temp: 110°C<br />
PLA temp: 50-60°C<br />
<br />
MAKE SURE YOUR PSU HAS 10 MORE AMPS SPARE!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
==Mounting==<br />
<br />
<br />
Known working solution, I (prusajr) use is Glass sheet (3mm) with glued on cork standoffs and on top of that is glued the heatbed.<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919911/<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919707/<br />
<br />
We are now working on simpler mounting solution!<br />
''Josef, are you referring to this solution? -'' http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
When mounted only using the four corners, the inherent warp of the pcb can be a problem, hence it is better to use the cork mounting system above (as the piece of cork in the centre helps to keep the pcb flat).<br />
Magnets can be used in replace of the cork, this makes the bed removable. However, I (mooneyj) have only tried this on a darwin type printer (where the build platform only moves in z). During fast printing, the darwin vibrates and it seems the heatbed magnets slide over each other slightly. The acceleration of the y axis on a mendel may cause the magnets to slide also. Perhaps a hybrid of magnet and bolt mounting would work well?.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': According to the Eagle file posted on Thingiverse, the M3 holes are spaced 209 mm<br />
<br />
==Sides==<br />
<br />
PCB Bed has two sides, one with the traces (bottom side) and one with silkscreen (top).<br />
<br />
Printing on top side is safer, works great.<br />
<br />
Printing on bottom is more effective and heats up quicker. (Though the LED, resistor and wire connections are liable to collision with the print head. Also the tracks could be damaged if the print head collides. Make sure your z-bed-springs are not to strong to prevent damage during a collision).<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Connection==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Optional LEDs===<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resister.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Mount the LEDs in different directions (polarity) so that one of the LEDs will light up regardless of the board's polarity. You can use a single LED if you are certain of the polarity.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED_DIAGRAM.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Electronics===<br />
''RAMPS''<br />
There are two ways to power the heatbed:<br />
1) You can omit the fuse on the board and use one of the mosfet outputs.<br />
2) Plug one heatbed wire to the GND pin on the mosfet output on RAMPS and connect the 12V+ separately to your powersupply. (Better)<br />
<br />
''Sanguinolou''<br />
The MK2 PCB heatbed heats up to 110C when powered through the heated bed connection on Sanguinolou, your power supply should be 300W and ensure your wires from your power supply to the Sanguinololu should be capable of handling the total draw of 20A+. Using a 300W ATX power supply with the 4wire ATX dual 12V connector is working well for me.<br />
<br />
N.B. It is recommended that you use a heatsink on your heated bed mosfet, it will get hot!<br />
<br />
==Testing==<br />
<br />
Its now in working state, Printed load of kits on it, working great.<br />
<br />
<br />
Main Idea is to use resistance of pcb traces as heating element.<br />
<br />
<br />
== FORKS (not done by Prusa)==<br />
<br />
=== MK2 ===<br />
<br />
==== About ====<br />
<br />
'''MK2 Heatbed - Minor changes by Tony Lock'''<br />
<br />
I liked Josef's original design but wanted to be able to use through hole components, have the thermistor poke through the middle and for it to look good on the 'back' with the silkscreen that Josef designed on that side as well.<br />
<br />
====Where to get it ====<br />
The MK2 .brd file is available here: [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2.brd]]<br />
<br />
Manufactured MK2 PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=heated+bed+reprap&_sacat=See-All-Categories#ptm eBay]<br />
<br />
[http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=126 eMakerShop]<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Printing ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
Although you can print directly to the bed covered in polyamide tape, no PCB is perfectly flat. It is recommended that you follow the directions in mounting, below, for better results.<br />
<br />
==== Mounting ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The MK2 board can be mounted either side up and is designed to be mounted as Josef describes:<br />
<br />
http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
The glass protects the tracks from a head crash and is easily swapped out.<br />
<br />
The board dimensions are identical to the MK1 design.<br />
<br />
Insulation between the board and the thick plate should improve heat-up times and reduce energy consumption. An example is here:<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_heated_bed#Thermal_Insulation<br />
<br />
''Caution, I have not tried this with the temperatures that the PCB bed can reach!''<br />
<br />
====Sides====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The PCB still has a side with the traces on and a side without but now the silkscreen is on both the top and bottom, this makes it look good even when 'upside down' under a layer of glass. The LED, resistor and power wires can be mounted on either side of the board, with either surface mount or through hole components. If you are using through hole be careful when soldering to not have overhang on the other side of the board that could interfere with the glass and introduce a gap between the glass and the PCB.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_front_small.jpg]]<br />
<br />
There is a central hole in the board (similar to this one http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1).<br />
It is sized so a small thermistor<br />
(for example the EPCOS one: http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=3878697 ) will fit though it allowing contact directly with the glass.<br />
''todo: test efficacy of using heat sink compound to better thermally couple the thermistor to the glass''<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_therm_hole.jpg| 200px]]<br />
<br />
====Connection====<br />
Polarity doesn't affect the PCB, however the LEDs have a polarity.<br />
<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
There are pads and plated through holes for connecting the power wires, ensure that the wire you use is thick enough for 10A. It is a good idea to think about strain relief so your moving build platform does not flex the joint, this can lead to failure of the joint over time. I recommend routing the wire from the heated bed to strain relief on the thick sheet before routing it to your controller/power supply. ''todo: get pictures of strain relief''<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB Heatbed MK2 connections.jpg| 300px]]<br />
<br />
=====Optional LEDs=====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resister.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs (traditional wired LEDs may also be used)<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor <br />
<br />
With the MK2 traditional wired parts can be substituted for the Surface Mount parts.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Build_a_RepRap&diff=38698Build a RepRap2011-07-22T15:13:38Z<p>Prusajr: Orca is RepStrap, thanks to its laser cut parts</p>
<hr />
<div>The following sections below attempt to make some sense of how all the pieces fit together to create a RepRap. However, if you want to skip all this stuff and get straight to getting your hands dirty then take a look at (in alphabetical order):<br />
<br />
* [[RepRapOneDarwin|How to Build Darwin]] - The first RepRap Version I design, which is now legacy.<br />
* [[How to Build a Huxley]] - The successor to Mendel (a.k.a. reprap III) it is still experimental, not-yet fully documented, and a more travel-sized Mendel variant<br />
* [[How to Build a Mendel]] - The original RepRap Version II design.<br />
* [[Prusa Mendel Assembly|How to Build a Prusa]] - The faster to print, cheaper to build Mendel variant, using only common easy to get stuff (Start here if you're new to RepRap).<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=5><br />
File:All 3 axes fdmd sml.jpg|Darwin<br />
File:huxley.jpg|Huxley<br />
File:Mendel.jpg|Mendel<br />
File:assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg|Prusa<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
Now, if you're interested, the way a RepRap works can be broken down into three major areas: <br />
<br />
# The software toolchain that generates instructions for the reprap<br />
# The electronics that read the instructions and handle the movement of the reprap<br />
# The mechanical body that does the actual printing<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Software Toolchain ==<br />
<br />
The software toolchain can be roughly broken down into 3 parts:<br />
# CAD tools<br />
# CAM tools<br />
# Firmware for electronics<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CAD Tools ===<br />
Computer Aided Design, or CAD, tools are used to design 3D parts for printing.<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
CAD tools in the truest sense are designed to allow you to easily change and manipulate parts based on parameters. Sometimes CAD files are referred to as ''parametric'' files. They usually represent parts or assemblies in terms of [[Wikipedia:Constructive solid geometry|Constructive Solid Geometry]], or CSG. Using CSG, parts can be represented as a tree of boolean operations performed on primitive shapes such as cubes, spheres, cylinders, pyramids, etc. Open source apps that fall into this category would be [http://www.openscad.org OpenSCAD], [http://sourceforge.net/apps/mediawiki/free-cad/index.php?title=Main_Page FreeCAD] and [http://code.google.com/p/heekscad/ heekscad]<br />
<br />
Another looser category of CAD tool would be apps that represent parts as a 3D [[Wikipedia:Polygon mesh|Polygon mesh]]. These applications are meant to be used more for special effects and artistic applications. They also seem to be a little more user-friendly. Open source apps in this category would be [http://www.blender.org Blender], [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google Sketchup] and [http://www.artofillusion.org/ Art of Illusion].<br />
<br />
==== Files ====<br />
Most of the time 3D software apps save their files in a proprietary or application-specific format. There are very few interchangeable CAD [[File Formats|file formats]]. The two most widely used interchangeable CSG file formats are [[File Formats|STEP]] and [[File Formats|IGES]]. The most widely used interchangeable mesh file format is [[File Formats|STL]]. STL files are important because, as we will see below, they are used by CAM tools.<br />
<br />
Mesh files cannot be converted into CSG file formats. However, CSG file formats ''can'' be converted into mesh file formats. Thus, if you're designing a part, it's a good idea to design it using a CSG CAD application.<br />
<br />
=== CAM Tools ===<br />
Computer Aided Manufacturing, or CAM, tools handle the intermediate step of translating CAD files into a machine-friendly format used by the RepRap's electronics.<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
In order to turn a 3D part into a machine friendly format, CAM software needs an [[File Formats|STL]] file. The machine friendly format that is used for printing is called [[G-code]]. It looks like early versions of Repraps used a protocol called [[SNAPComms|SNAP]] but G-codes are what's used now. To Convert STL files to G-code, you have to use one of the following 3 programs: <br />
<br />
# [[Skeinforge]] or<br />
# [[RepSnapper]] or<br />
# [[Mendel User Manual: Host Software|RepRap Host Software]]<br />
<br />
The STL to G-conversion slices the part like salami and then looks at the cross section of each slice and figures out the path that the print head must go in order to squirt out plastic.<br />
<br />
After you have your g-code file, you have to run it through a G-code interpreter. A G-code interpreter reads each line of the file and sends the actual electronic signals to the motors to tell the reprap how to move. There are 2 different G-code interpreters:<br />
<br />
# A program called [[EMC]] which runs on your computer or<br />
# the firmware on the Reprap's electronics<br />
<br />
To send g-code files to the firmware, you need to either:<br />
<br />
# Stick the g-code file on an SD card if the Reprap electronics have an SD card reader or<br />
# Drip-feed the gl-codes one at a time over the USB port using either:<br />
:* [[ReplicatorG]] or<br />
:* [[RepSnapper]] or<br />
:* [[Mendel User Manual: Host Software|RepRap Host Software]] or<br />
:* [[ArduinoSend|send.py]] or<br />
:* [[reprap-utils]]<br />
<br />
==== Files ====<br />
The main files use by CAM tools are [[File Formats|STL]] and [[File Formats|gcode]] files. CAM tools convert STL files into gcode files. The official STL files for [[Mendel]] are stored in the reprap [[Wikipedia:Apache Subversion|subversion]] repository. To get a copy of these files, run the following commands in ubuntu:<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install subversion<br />
svn co https://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/svnroot/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/cartesian-robot-m4/printed-parts/<br />
<br />
This will create a directory full of STL files that you can then give to your neighbor that already has a reprap and they can print out the parts for you. You will also notice that this directory contains [[File Types|AoI files]]. These files are for [[AoI|Art of Illusion]]. It is the CAD application that was used to design the parts and then save them as STL files.<br />
<br />
=== Firmware ===<br />
Reprap electronics are controlled by an inexpensive CPU such as the Atmel AVR processor. Atmel processors are what Arduino-based microcontrollers use. These processors are very wimpy compared to even the average 10 to 15 year old PC you find in the dump nowadays. However, these ''are'' CPUs so they do run primitive software. This primitive software they run is the Reprap's ''firmware''.<br />
<br />
Of the entire software chain that makes the Reprap work, the firmware portion of it is the closest you get to actual programming. Luckily, there are many people that have done all the heavy lifting already so you don't have to do much or any programming at all. <br />
<br />
To make the electronics work, you download the firmware for your controller's CPU, possibly make some configuration file changes, possibly run some commands, then install the firmware to your electronics. The installation process usually consists of connecting a USB port to your computer and running an application.<br />
<br />
After your microcontroller has its firmware loaded, it is ready to accept [[File Formats|gcode]] files which have the machine-friendly instructions on how to print your part.<br />
<br />
<br />
The following is a brief list of the most popular firmware:<br />
* [[List of Firmware#FiveD|FiveD]]<br />
* [[List of Firmware#Teacup| Teacup]]<br />
* [[List of Firmware#Sprinter|Sprinter]]<br />
For all available firmwares see ''[[List of Firmware]]''<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
To upload firmware to your arduino-based electronics, you use the arduino IDE that you can download from the arduino website.<br />
<br />
==== Files ====<br />
The firmware files are usually [[File Formats|PDE]] files. You open these with the arduino IDE which in turn sends them to the reprap electronics via a USB cable.<br />
<br />
== Electronics ==<br />
A place to start with this is [["Official" Electronics]] and [[RepRapElectronics]] and [[StepperMotor]].<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/View?docid=dgzjfrcc_2gm84ggdb This] document describes the protocol that the [[Generation 3 Electronics]] uses to drip-feed G-codes from the PC to the firmware.<br />
<br />
== Mechanical Body ==<br />
This is the part of the reprap most people are probably eager to build.<br />
<br />
There are around 40 parts in the Mendel that you have to print out from an existing reprap. If you don't have access to another reprap (which is probably 99.9% of the people reading this), you'll have to make those parts by hand using wood or steel I'm guessing. If you don't have a wood workshop or CNC machine, I guess your best bet is to find a local machinist or carpenter that can make them for you.<br />
<br />
A machinist or carpenter should be able to make parts from blueprints. [[Metal Mendel#Photos and Drawings|Metal Mendel]] has some prints for a Mendel that should be useful.<br />
<br />
To make prints for STL files, you pretty much have to redraw them in a 2D or 3D CAD app. If a 3D part is designed in Freecad, it can do the projections (prints) for you but you can't put any dimensions on the parts. According to the Freecad team, you'd have to export the prints as dxf files, and import them to QCad to add dimensions.<br />
<br />
=== Bill of Materials ===<br />
Other than the printable portions of the reprap, again, you'll need a spreadsheet listing parts to buy, suppliers, estimated cost, etc.<br />
<br />
=== Building the Body ===<br />
To build the body, take a look at the STEP file in the source code, look at videos and I think there's stuff elsewhere in this wiki.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Category:RepStrap&diff=38697Category:RepStrap2011-07-22T15:13:18Z<p>Prusajr: Adding Orco, and making page more similar to RepRap options.</p>
<hr />
<div>A RepStrap is a open-hardware rapid prototyping machine which is made by fabrication processes which aren't under the RepRap umbrella yet. These are becoming less and less common as RepRap printed parts become more available, but are still an option. You can build a 3D printer RepStrap [[WolfStrap|using a tablesaw]], or [[LaserCut Mendel|using a lasercutter]], and use this to make fun, beautiful, useful things.<br />
<br />
Like [[RepRapWiki:About|RepRap]] parts, of course!<br />
<br />
If there is a page on the RepRap wiki that describes a RepStrap but is not listed on this page,<br />
please edit that page and put the <nowiki>[[category:RepStrap]]</nowiki> tag on it. Then the wiki will automatically display a link to that page at the bottom of this page.<br />
<br />
=Which RepStrap is Right for Me?=<br />
This page is a list of all RepStraps. Feel free to browse the versions listed here, or see the page [[What Tooling Do You Have]] to see what you can make with what you have.<br />
<br />
* [[Orca#How_to_build_Orca|How to build an Orca]] - Open source 3D printer derived from Mendel. Easier & faster to build then original Mendel '''but with cost of custom laser-cutted aluminum parts'''.<br />
* [[WolfStrap-English#WolfStrap-English|How to build an Wolfstrap]] - One of many RepStraps.<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=5><br />
File:Orca02.jpg|Orca<br />
File:Wolfstrap.jpg|Wolfstrap<br />
</gallery></div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Orca_v020&diff=38696Orca v0202011-07-22T15:06:07Z<p>Prusajr: Adding it to RepStrap category.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|status = working<br />
|name = RepRap Orca v0.2<br />
|description = RepRap Orca v0.2<br />
|license = GPL v2 <br />
|author = Camiel<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel RepStrap|Mendel RepStrap]][[Category:Mendel RepStrap]][[Category:RepStrap]]<br />
|image = Orca02.jpg<br />
}}<br />
New Users, please notice:<br />
* "Orca" is not widely used yet ( approx 10 users world-wide ).<br />
* It's longevity and capabilities is not (yet) proven ( but that's just because its new ).<br />
* Unlike Mendel or Darwin, Orca 100% requires the use of a laser cutter, with 20+ complicated laser-cut parts. Which makes it RepStrap. <br />
* Is developed and supported by a single commercial entity [http://www.mendel-parts.com http://mendel-parts.com] ( you may or may not like this, that's up to you).<br />
<br />
If you want discuss the politics related to this, please visit [[http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Talk:Orca&action=edit&redlink=1 the Talk page]]<br />
<br><br />
= Index =<br />
<br><br />
RepRap Orca is the latest 3D printer in development by [http://www.mendel-parts.com http://mendel-parts.com] and well in short: <br />
<br />
a cheap, not too heavy, but still robust 3D printer, easy to transport (grab it on the front X-bar at the sides..) and optimized for 1.75mm filament.<br />
<br />
It still has a Mendel build size, but is simpler/faster to build. (with experience and proper manual, probably in one afternoon).<br />
<br />
For this 3D printer not much hardware is needed, but it is still stiff with short bars and belts etc.<br />
<br />
It doesn't contain too many (or too big, too complex) plastic parts, so is capable of fast reproduction <br />
<br />
(each Orca can easily print a new Orca each day..)<br />
<br><br><br />
RepRap Orca v0.2 is a little bit experimental, I initially only spent six evenings on the whole design/printing prototype/building/testing etc.. <br><br />
plan was not to release yet and release maybe v0.4, however since me and many others around were so impressed, we decided to launch this product already quicker as expected.<br><br />
But therefore alot of files are still a bit beta, meaning they can have weird tolerances etc, meaning: DONT LOOK AT THE DETAILS :P<br><br />
(and dont send me emails why things are not 100% ok.. I know that..) <br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
== Specifications ==<br />
<br><br />
* check videos for now.. but from what ive seen last few months, Orca can do anything a standard Mendel can do.<br />
But it probably even goes beyond that, its better on shortterm (i dont know longterm yet) in quality (with same hotend)/max speed/skipping problems etc.<br />
However that depends very much on how perfect a printer is build/finetuned/experienced someone is.. <br />
<br><br><br />
Like our Mendel nr.1 (yes Kulitorum, that is still your machine running daily production here after more then probably 15months now! LOL) it is still printing very nice quality one of the best, even with those crappy parts.. <br><br />
<br><br />
So I guess its also a bit of luck and probably the energy and touch of the person who printed the plastic set for you as well.. <br />
(yes Adrian, your mendel (our Mendel nr.3 here) also is still printing great quality parts :) after probably 10-12months now..) happen to be those two Mendels from those two "godfathers" who perform greatest here. ;) <br><br />
thanks again for all your inspiration.. and everyone else off course...<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
== Benefits of this Design ==<br />
<br><br />
* fast & easy to build (build time: 4-16hours depending on experience/manual status/finetuning needed etc)<br />
* All plastics (incl extruder) can be printed in 15hours @ 50mm/s @ 0.32mm layers with 1.75mm filament<br />
* Plastics are small & simple shaped, (total weight for an Orca set incl extruder: 350 gram vs 900 gram for a standard Mendel)<br />
* only 4 simple cutting sizes for all threaded & smooth rod (in total: 10x330,7x400,2x500,2x265)<br />
* short bars (max 400mm)<br />
* short belts and simple routing/tensioning (3x 840/5mm wide or 1x 840/16mm wide cut in three)<br />
* less bolts, nuts etc<br />
* Very open frame<br />
** very nice while building/working on it, highly accessible<br />
** Printed Object good visible/accessible<br />
** Extruder simple & small & very good visible/accessible/<br />
* Smooth Z-axis & Z-axis moves down instead of up against gravity<br />
* Alot of the important dimensions are in the thick sheet<br />
* Footprint roughly 28x35cm (excl: studding sticking out & Y-cluster sticking out backward etc, since powersupplies can be put under that..)<br />
* Printsize roughly 200x200x130<br />
* Model is easy scalable<br />
* The extruder & hotend of Orca also fit (plugnplay with GEN6) on (standard) Mendel.<br />
* Cheap @ mendel-parts.com :P<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
== Orca Electronics ==<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
We are also developing new electronics, in short: a very deluxe GEN6 with alot of addons/new features, like standalone printing from SD, multiple heated beds/extruders possible, smart acceleration and a Touchscreen (4,3") and alot more at a very competitive price.. <br />
<br><br><br />
The project is currently named "gen6 ultra" but will change, for now probably "Orca Electronics" ;)<br />
But then newcomers will think the "Orca Electronics" are specific to the machine, and won't work with a Prusa, [[1X2]],<br />
or [[This Week's Sexy Post-Prusa Mendel]]. :(<br />
--[[User:Sebastien Bailard|Sebastien Bailard]] 20:49, 18 May 2011 (UTC)<br />
<br><br><br />
Current naming status:<br />
Orca Electronics aka: GEN6 Ultra / GEN6++ / Camiel's 2nd Generation Electronics / Mendel-Parts electronics v2 / naming still unsure etc<br />
<br><br><br />
<br />
NOTE: current Orca v0.2 uses standard GEN6 and doesnt come with the touchscreen electronics yet..<br> <br />
Orca will be sold with the new touchscreen electronics probably earliest end of September..<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
= How to get Orca =<br />
<br><br><br />
For Orca complete kits:<br />
*[http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/complete-kits/complete-orca-v0-2-kit-unassembled-experimental.html mendel-parts.com - catalog - complete-kits - Orca v0.2 3D printer full kit]<br />
*[http://www webshop X]<br />
<br><br><br />
For Orca parts:<br />
*[http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog.html mendel-parts.com - catalog]<br />
*[http://www webshop Y]<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
= How to build Orca =<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02.jpg|thumb|right|320px]]<br />
<br><br />
The four stages:<br />
<br><br />
*[http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Orca#Preparing 1. Preparing a build]<br />
*[http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Orca#Mechanical_construction 2. Mechanical construction]<br />
*[http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Orca#Wiring_.26_Electronics 3. Wiring & electronics]<br />
*[http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Orca#Firmware_.26_print_software 4. Firmware & print software]<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
== Preparing ==<br />
<br><br />
=== BOM ===<br />
<br><br />
Bill of Materials / What do I need for this Orca v0.2?<br />
* Printed Plastics<br />
* Smooth Rod<br />
* Threaded Rod<br />
* Bolts, nuts & washers<br />
* Bearings<br />
* Belts<br />
* Electronics & opto's<br />
* Extruder parts<br />
* Heated bed parts<br />
* Motors<br />
* Thick & thin sheet<br />
* Power supplies<br />
<br><br />
(? silicon sealant/cooling fan/cooling paste/kapton ?)<br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Printed Plastics ====<br />
<br><br />
* 1x Printbed sm01 (STL can be found here: <b>[http://www.mendel-parts.com/downloads/stl/_ORCA/printbed_assy_orca_sm01.stl Orca v0.2 printbed01] </b>)<br />
[[File:Printbed_assy_orca_sm01.jpg|450px]]<br />
* 1x Printbed sm02 (STL can be found here: <b>[http://www.mendel-parts.com/downloads/stl/_ORCA/printbed_assy_orca_sm02.stl Orca v0.2 printbed02] </b>))<br />
[[File:Printbed_assy_orca_sm02.jpg|450px]]<br />
* 1x Printbed sm03 (STL can be found here: <b>[http://www.mendel-parts.com/downloads/stl/_ORCA/printbed_assy_orca_sm03.stl Orca v0.2 printbed03] </b>))<br />
[[File:Printbed_assy_orca_sm03.jpg|450px]]<br />
<br />
This is a smaller then mendel printbed size bed, this was/is temporary/beta but all three together should be all plastics (some parts are not 100% necessary, but this is all inclusive version, also including our new Orca extruder)<br />
<br />
Untill we have sorted all the correct parts/assy names etc, this makes it possible for users to start already printing Orca plastics, without mixing up names with near future part file releases.<br />
<br />
<br />
(oops.. I forgot to add the belt pullies, (since i print those FDM), but three nophead (standard mendel) belt pullies are used also)<br />
<br />
==== Smooth Rod ====<br />
<br />
* 4x 330mm, 8mm diameter <br />
* 2x 400mm, 8mm diameter <br />
<br />
tolerances: +/- 5mm is probably ok..<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Threaded Rod ====<br />
* 6x 330mm, M8<br />
* 5x 400mm, M8<br />
* 2x 500mm, M8<br />
* 2x 265mm, M8<br />
<br />
tolerances: +/- 5mm is probably ok..<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Bolts, nuts & washers ====<br />
* this list is currently being finalised..<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Bearings ====<br />
* 38x 624ZZ (40pc needed with geared Orca extruder)<br />
* 4x 608ZZ<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Belts ====<br />
* 3x 840mm T5 synchroflex timing belt - 5mm width<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Electronics & opto's ====<br />
* 1x Mendel-Parts GEN6 Electronics incl opto's (others should work too, however we cant give support on those (yet).<br><br />
(this comes with the three opto's on cables and with wiring for the extruder (with a molex connector on one side, ferrules are used on the other side)<br />
* 1x USB A-B cable (recommended: 3mtr length (for convenience))<br />
<br />
==== Extruder parts ====<br />
* 1x Mendel-Parts hotend v9 for 1.75mm with .35mm nozzle (recommended, but others should work too with some fitting/adapting probably)<br />
* 1x Mendel-parts hotend v9 heaterblock kit (will be including thermistor, heat resistor, cooling fan (+ extension cabling)<br />
* 1x hightemp heatshrink 2.4mm around 20cm (for use with ferrules, see below)<br />
* 2x ferrule of 0.5mm (connecting G550 thermistor) <br />
* 4x ferrule of 1.0mm (connecting heat resistor & extending hotend v9 cooling fan cables)<br />
* 1x Thermistor G550 (recommended for GEN6)<br />
* 1x Heat Resistor <br />
* Silicone sealant upto 300C (longterm 300C...) (for placing thermistor and heat resistor in heater block)<br />
* Kapton tape 13mm (for the insulation of thermistor G550 legs)<br />
* 4x springs for extruder<br />
* cooling fan 40x40mm<br />
* M4 brass insert piece with centerhole drilled out to 5.0/5.1mm for direct drive extruder (dont forget to remove grubscrew while drilling if you upgrade an old one). <br />
Or alternatively with old version / Orca geared extruder, a standard m4 insert piece is used with M4 thread <br />
(in near future we will have an improved version and also in different materials etc.)<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Heated bed parts ====<br />
<br />
* 4x 1.5 Ohm heater block is recommended for Orca 4mm printbed, ideal with a 90W 12-22V powersupply, 12V=53C, 14v=60C .. 22V = 110C<br />
* 4x printbed springs for orca 26Lx11<br />
* 1x cabling for in between heater blocks, around 50cm long at least 0.75mm<br />
* 1x PTFE sheet for use as strain relief (and optional under the springs)<br />
<br />
optionally:<br />
* 1x Cooling paste upto 150C (can be used in between printbed and heater blocks for better heat transfer, however I have serious doubts in how necessary this is..)<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Motors ====<br />
<br />
* 4x NEMA17 motors are needed for an Orca (preferable with 80cm cables), for the Orca extruder without gearing (latest version) high torque motors are necessary (and probably raising the potentiometer on the electronics too..)<br />
All motor pullies now have grubscrews, but we still recommend to file a small flat side on the motorshaft, dont forget to use tape to protect the motor or use clay around the shaft. <br />
(I use wide insulation tape with a hole in it that fits the motor shaft tightly then there is a good seal and no metal swarfs are drawn in the motor (its magnetic..))<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Power supplies ====<br />
<br><br />
* 1x min. 60W 12V power supply for GEN6 electronics<br />
* 1x min. 60W 12-18V power supply for PLA heated bed or min. 90W 12-22V for PLA & ABS heated bed<br />
<br><br />
We use two seperate powersupplies currently with our printers, it's more flexible and a good desktop adapter / powersupply (not ATX etc) with >150W is pretty expensive.<br />
<br><br />
The heated bed powersupply sets the bed temperature by voltage currently to keep things simple.. <br />
<br><br />
If the default Orca (4x 1.5 Ohm) heater blocks are used approx.: 12V=54C / 14V = 61C / 22V = 110C etc.<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
==== Thick & thin sheet ====<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Orca v0.2 Thick sheet</b><br />
<br />
* <b>3mm Aluminium </b> (4pc - total area needed roughly: 80x80mm)<br />
** 4x ORCA_2102_BEARING_SUPPORT_PLATE<br />
[[File:orca02-thick-sheet-3mm.jpg|120px]] <br />
<br />
<br />
* <b>4mm Aluminium </b> (15pc - total area needed roughly: 300x550mm)<br />
** 1x ORCA_2001_Z_FLOOR<br />
** 2x ORCA_2101_Z-SUPPORT-PLATE<br />
** 2x ORCA_3104_YZ_DRIVE_PLATE<br />
** 2x ORCA_3105_YZ-SIDE-PLATE<br />
** 2x ORCA_3107_Y_FRAME_ENDPLATE<br />
** 1x ORCA_3111_Y_MOTOR_PLATE<br />
** 1x ORCA_3201_Y_FROG<br />
** 1x ORCA_3301_PRINTBED<br />
** 1x ORCA_4002_X-MOTOR-PLATE<br />
** 1x ORCA_5001_EXTRUDER_BASE_PLATE<br />
** 1x ORCA_5002_EXTRUDER_MOTOR_PLATE<br />
[[File:orca02-thick-sheet-4mm.jpg|650px]] <br />
<br />
<br />
* <b>6mm POM </b> (1pc - total area needed roughly: 94x365mm)<br />
** 1x ORCA_6001_MAINBOARD <br />
[[File:orca02-thick-sheet-6mm.jpg|450px]] <br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Orca v0.2 Thin sheet</b><br />
<br />
* 1mm Aluminium <br />
** 3x optoflag (same as mendel v2, but they probably need to be cut shorter)<br />
<br />
<br />
notes:<br />
<br />
The circuitboard holder also adds a bit of extra stiffness for x-direction of frame, however I've also printed without one..<br />
<br />
Aluminium is strong & lightweight and a long-lasting material, however if you are one of those "wood-freaks", it should also work in wood..<br />
<br />
maybe a little strengthening/adapting is necessary but I dont see big issues there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Required Tools ===<br />
You will need a "standard" toolbox to build an Orca. <br />
That includes, but is not limited to: <br />
<br />
*Metric allen key / hex wrench set - (2,5mm = M3 (and countersunk M4 bolts) / 3mm = M4)<br />
*(Combination) Wrench set - (5,5mm = M3 & 7mm = M4 & 10mm = M6 & 13mm = M8) <br />
*Dikes/needle-nose pliers/small vice grips. <br />
*Measuring device, preferably a set of calipers or a decent ruler<br />
*Scissors <br />
*Wire stripper <br />
*Small files &/or a dremel <br />
*Drill & common bit sizes <br />
*Countersunk drill (we will probably pre-countersunk Orca v0.2 thick sheet, however this is unsure yet..)<br />
*side cutters<br />
*Multimeter for checking powersupply connection, plus/minus<br />
*Soldering iron and associated consumables (solder, sponge, wick, etc) for the heated bed.<br />
Mendel-Parts.com GEN6 Electronics & opto's & motors are <b>plugnplay</b> out of the box, no soldering required for those.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Mechanical construction ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Overview ===<br />
General assembly info/tips.<br />
Explanation of Orca axes, concept etc<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CAD Files ===<br />
<br />
STP/IGES/STL/DXF/PDF/JPG etc<br />
<br />
see <b>[http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Orca#Printed_Plastics STL-printbeds]</b> for now for first STL files<br />
<br />
<br />
=== eDrawings & PDF sheets ===<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==== eDrawings ====<br />
[http://www.mendel-parts.com/downloads/soon eDrawing full Orca v0.2]<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
==== PDF sheets ====<br />
<br />
We are currently working on a first version of a (one-day-to-be-)professional assembly manual with exploded views/BOM's etc, just like an Ikea manual.. first version will be released end June/early July.<br />
*[http://www.mendel-parts.com/downloads/2d-drawings/Manual-Orca-v02-PDF/ dir for all current manual PDF's] (under construction, use at your own risk currently)<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
-- NOTE: THESE DRAWINGS CAN CONTAIN (SMALL) ERRORS AT THE MOMENT<br><br />
we will post comments this weekend on what is incorrect<br><br />
and these drawings are far from finished (and more will be added)<br><br />
however that will take a few more weeks probably<br><br />
well better something then nothing.. <br><br />
<br><br><br />
=== Step 1: Frame assembly ===<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
==== Z support right ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_2100_z-support-right01.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
==== Frame right ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_1100_frame-right01.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_1100_frame-right02.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_1100_frame-right03.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_1100_frame-right04.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_1100_frame-right05.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
==== Z support left ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_2200_z-support-left01.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
==== Frame left ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_1200_frame-left01.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
==== Frame ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_1000_frame01.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_1000_frame02.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Step 2: Z-cluster assembly ===<br />
<br><br />
==== Z Axis ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_2300_z-axis01.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br><br />
==== Z corner pulley ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_2050_z-corner-pulley01.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br><br />
==== Z cluster ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_2000_z-cluster01.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_2000_z-cluster02.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_2000_z-cluster03.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_2000_z-cluster04.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Step 3: Y-cluster assembly ===<br />
<br><br />
==== Y motor plate ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3110_y-motor-plate01.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3110_y-motor-plate02.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
==== Y belt support ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3120_y-belt-support01.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br><br />
==== Y bar clamp ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3130_y-bar-clamp01.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br><br />
==== Y vert drive right ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3160_y-vert-drive-right01.jpg|800px]]<br />
<br><br />
==== Y conn front ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3170_y-conn-front01.jpg|800px]]<br />
<br><br />
==== Y conn rear ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3180_y-conn-rear01.jpg|800px]]<br />
<br><br />
==== Y Frame ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3100_y-frame01.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3100_y-frame02.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
==== Y bearing 180 & 360 ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3203_y-bearing-360-B.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3204_y-bearing-360-A.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3210_y-bearing-180.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3220_y-bearing-360.jpg|400px]] <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
==== Y cluster ====<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3200_y-frog01.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3300_printbed01.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3000_y-cluster01.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3000_y-cluster02.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_3000_y-cluster03.jpg|800px]] <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Step 4: Placing YZ-cluster ===<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_4060_xz-bar-clamp01.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_0000-placing-yz-cluster01.jpg|800px]]<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_0000-placing-yz-cluster02.jpg|800px]]<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Step 5: X-cluster assembly ===<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_4050_x-belt-support01.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_4100_x-motor-plate01.jpg|800px]]<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_4100_x-motor-plate02.jpg|800px]]<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
=== Step 6: Extruder & hotend assembly ===<br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Step 7: Electronics assembly ===<br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02_6000_electronics01.jpg|800px]]<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
//dont forget optoflags... <br><br />
<br><br />
//option to build with some plastics less and with cable ties & "stelringen" instead)<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
== Wiring & Electronics ==<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Step 1: Fitting Electronics ===<br />
<br><br />
For now see: [[Generation 6 Electronics|GEN6 reprap wiki]]<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Step 2: Fitting Opto's ===<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Step 3: Powersupplies ===<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Step 4: Cable ties ===<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Step 5: (optional) Cooling fan ===<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
== Firmware & print software==<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Firmware software ===<br />
<br><br />
Arduino0018<br />
* Download & Installation<br />
* using arduino0018<br />
* Edit/download firmware and upload new firmware to GEN6<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
=== Print software ===<br />
<br><br />
Repsnapper v352<br />
* Download & Installation<br />
* Using the print software<br />
* Test printer <br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
= How to use Orca =<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
== General usage ==<br />
<br><br />
*Safety<br />
*powersupplies<br />
*emergency button<br />
*manual Z adjust <br />
*Transportation<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
== Software setup ==<br />
<br><br />
*Advanced printing (+skeinforge)<br />
*finetuning firmware<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
== maintenance of machine ==<br />
<br><br />
*Cleaning<br />
*Lubrication<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
== Problem solving ==<br />
<br><br />
*Extruder<br />
*Filament<br />
*Heated bed<br />
*Electronics<br />
*Power<br />
*USB/PC<br />
*Frame<br />
*X-cluster<br />
*Y-cluster<br />
*Z-cluster<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
= Images =<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== 3D CAD screendumps ==<br />
[[File:Orca02.jpg|350px|Orca v0.2]]<br />
[[File:Orca02-g.jpg|350px|Orca v0.2]]<br><br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02-c.jpg|350px|Orca v0.2]]<br />
[[File:Orca02-b.jpg|350px|Orca v0.2]]<br><br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02-d-frontview.jpg|350px|Orca v0.2]]<br />
[[File:Orca02-e-rightview.jpg|350px|Orca v0.2]]<br><br />
<br><br />
[[File:Orca02-f-backview.jpg|350px|Orca v0.2]]<br />
<br><br />
== High-res photos ==<br />
<br><br />
coming hopefully this weekend (if I (or others here) find a bit of time..<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
= Videos =<br />
<br><br />
*<videoflash type="youtube">VKCQ5vk_2fo</videoflash> <br>Orca nr 4 printing Orca nr 5 (18-5-2011)<br />
<br><br />
more videos can be found in our youtube channel:<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/user/VanberloSKI?feature=mhsn <b><u>more videos on youtube</u></b>]<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
= Status =<br />
<br />
*Version 0.2, May 2011 a prototype serie of 12pc has been made/build and in June production start of first 100pc v0.2 after some delay, because of last minute new extruder and new hotend v9 for Orca (whole extruder and hotend also fit Mendel plug n play if you have Gen6..)<br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
*Version 0.1, April 21, 2011, is the first prototype<br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Version 0.2 ==<br />
<br><br />
* more info soon<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
== Version 0.1 ==<br />
*Some weekend in January, 2011 : The first basic concept has been drawn<br />
*Some weekend in April, 2011: After on hold for some months, I've finished first files, printing the parts, building it.. and being amazed about it, even without any thick sheet (yet) its very solid... and it will be probably one printbed to print (excl extruder). So suddenly I start to realise that this printer is better then anything around atm (for the given selling price, since it will be cheap) and still has very high stifness and the shortest belts I've seen around (700/840/840mm) For those wo dont know, price of a 1380mm belt is around 2x the price of a 840mm and also long belts give alot more issues... Also the parts are very good printable/symmetric/etc and we are designing it all to have standard size bolts etc.. (alot of people dont know, but for example m4x35 is more expensive then m4x40.. so we focused also on using only a few standard sizes widely avaible etc.<br />
(finally my many years of being a 3D CAD Engineer at a major product development office comes in use for the RepRap world...)<br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
= Calendar =<br />
<br><br />
<b>PRESENT</b><br><br />
<br><br />
July 2011<br />
* early July - first Orca manual (exploded views/BOM's in pdf) is planned for early July<br />
* early July - Thick sheet files will be released (PDF/DXF)<br />
* early July - The single printed part & assembly files of orca v0.2 will be released (STL/STEP/IGES)<br />
* 11-24 July - Orca build party @ Barcelona, (Camiel might be there himself a few days) <br />
* mid July - first Orca electronics (basic) prototype testing is scheduled for mid July<br />
* end July - production should be expanded with another 3 or more Orca's<br />
<br><br />
so plan is to have in total for our production line by the end of July: 6-8 Orca's, 10-11 Mendels & 2 UP's, getting close to 20 printers :)<br><br />
<br><br />
and another plan is that I (Camiel) will go to Barcelona for few days helping out and Ill go with a van and print new orca's on the road.. <br><br />
That plan (printing on the road) has been in my head for many months, and is prepared already.. <br><br />
Eindhoven (NL) to Barcelona (ES) is around 14hours.. so I should be able to print on each Orca a new Orca set while driving.<br><br />
And Ill go with probably 3-5 Orca's printing while driving.<br><br />
"Replicating on the move" or what is the term there.. <br><br />
"Dont drink and drive! Print and fly!" :)<br><br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
<b>PAST</b> (who cares about that part, this world is going way too fast to look back..)<br><br />
<br><br />
June 2011<br />
* Orca printbed stl files are online<br />
* first production serie of 100pc of Orca v0.2 thick and thin sheet has arrived<br />
* Three Orca's are in our production line now (beside the Mendels), printing three new Orca sets daily<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
May 2011:<br />
* first, very successful, Orca workshop held @ mendel-parts<br />
* Orca was exposed on an exhibition @ TAC / Eindhoven, more info/pictures soon<br />
<br><br />
<br><br />
= Users =<br />
<br><br />
[[User:Camiel|Camiel Gubbels]] is the lead developer/engineer/tester/supplier for this 3D printer.<br><br />
Camiel's webshop is: [http://www.mendel-parts.com Mendel-Parts.com]<br><br />
<br><br />
He's often (when he has freetime.. so lately rarely) in the [irc://chat.freenode.net/#reprap IRC channel], if you need to ask a question.<br><br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
= FAQ =<br />
<br />
Q: Why is this new printer called "Orca"<br />
<br />
A: someone in IRC kept misreading my Orsa (project codename) or well maybe on purpose not sure.. (Orsa = bear in Italian, since it looks a bit like a sitting bear (back in January... ), also Orca sounds better in English then Orsa.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Build_a_RepRap&diff=38693Build a RepRap2011-07-22T14:54:03Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following sections below attempt to make some sense of how all the pieces fit together to create a RepRap. However, if you want to skip all this stuff and get straight to getting your hands dirty then take a look at (in alphabetical order):<br />
<br />
* [[RepRapOneDarwin|How to Build Darwin]] - The first RepRap Version I design, which is now legacy.<br />
* [[How to Build a Huxley]] - The successor to Mendel (a.k.a. reprap III) it is still experimental, not-yet fully documented, and a more travel-sized Mendel variant<br />
* [[How to Build a Mendel]] - The original RepRap Version II design.<br />
* [[Orca#How_to_build_Orca|How to build an Orca]] - Open source 3D printer derived from Mendel. Easier & faster to build then original Mendel '''but with cost of custom laser-cutted aluminum parts'''.<br />
* [[Prusa Mendel Assembly|How to Build a Prusa]] - The faster to print, cheaper to build Mendel variant, using only common easy to get stuff '''(Start here if you're new to RepRap).'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=5><br />
File:All 3 axes fdmd sml.jpg|Darwin<br />
File:huxley.jpg|Huxley<br />
File:Mendel.jpg|Mendel<br />
File:Orca02.jpg|Orca<br />
File:assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg|Prusa<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
Now, if you're interested, the way a RepRap works can be broken down into three major areas: <br />
<br />
# The software toolchain that generates instructions for the reprap<br />
# The electronics that read the instructions and handle the movement of the reprap<br />
# The mechanical body that does the actual printing<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Software Toolchain ==<br />
<br />
The software toolchain can be roughly broken down into 3 parts:<br />
# CAD tools<br />
# CAM tools<br />
# Firmware for electronics<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CAD Tools ===<br />
Computer Aided Design, or CAD, tools are used to design 3D parts for printing.<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
CAD tools in the truest sense are designed to allow you to easily change and manipulate parts based on parameters. Sometimes CAD files are referred to as ''parametric'' files. They usually represent parts or assemblies in terms of [[Wikipedia:Constructive solid geometry|Constructive Solid Geometry]], or CSG. Using CSG, parts can be represented as a tree of boolean operations performed on primitive shapes such as cubes, spheres, cylinders, pyramids, etc. Open source apps that fall into this category would be [http://www.openscad.org OpenSCAD], [http://sourceforge.net/apps/mediawiki/free-cad/index.php?title=Main_Page FreeCAD] and [http://code.google.com/p/heekscad/ heekscad]<br />
<br />
Another looser category of CAD tool would be apps that represent parts as a 3D [[Wikipedia:Polygon mesh|Polygon mesh]]. These applications are meant to be used more for special effects and artistic applications. They also seem to be a little more user-friendly. Open source apps in this category would be [http://www.blender.org Blender], [http://sketchup.google.com/ Google Sketchup] and [http://www.artofillusion.org/ Art of Illusion].<br />
<br />
==== Files ====<br />
Most of the time 3D software apps save their files in a proprietary or application-specific format. There are very few interchangeable CAD [[File Formats|file formats]]. The two most widely used interchangeable CSG file formats are [[File Formats|STEP]] and [[File Formats|IGES]]. The most widely used interchangeable mesh file format is [[File Formats|STL]]. STL files are important because, as we will see below, they are used by CAM tools.<br />
<br />
Mesh files cannot be converted into CSG file formats. However, CSG file formats ''can'' be converted into mesh file formats. Thus, if you're designing a part, it's a good idea to design it using a CSG CAD application.<br />
<br />
=== CAM Tools ===<br />
Computer Aided Manufacturing, or CAM, tools handle the intermediate step of translating CAD files into a machine-friendly format used by the RepRap's electronics.<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
In order to turn a 3D part into a machine friendly format, CAM software needs an [[File Formats|STL]] file. The machine friendly format that is used for printing is called [[G-code]]. It looks like early versions of Repraps used a protocol called [[SNAPComms|SNAP]] but G-codes are what's used now. To Convert STL files to G-code, you have to use one of the following 3 programs: <br />
<br />
# [[Skeinforge]] or<br />
# [[RepSnapper]] or<br />
# [[Mendel User Manual: Host Software|RepRap Host Software]]<br />
<br />
The STL to G-conversion slices the part like salami and then looks at the cross section of each slice and figures out the path that the print head must go in order to squirt out plastic.<br />
<br />
After you have your g-code file, you have to run it through a G-code interpreter. A G-code interpreter reads each line of the file and sends the actual electronic signals to the motors to tell the reprap how to move. There are 2 different G-code interpreters:<br />
<br />
# A program called [[EMC]] which runs on your computer or<br />
# the firmware on the Reprap's electronics<br />
<br />
To send g-code files to the firmware, you need to either:<br />
<br />
# Stick the g-code file on an SD card if the Reprap electronics have an SD card reader or<br />
# Drip-feed the gl-codes one at a time over the USB port using either:<br />
:* [[ReplicatorG]] or<br />
:* [[RepSnapper]] or<br />
:* [[Mendel User Manual: Host Software|RepRap Host Software]] or<br />
:* [[ArduinoSend|send.py]] or<br />
:* [[reprap-utils]]<br />
<br />
==== Files ====<br />
The main files use by CAM tools are [[File Formats|STL]] and [[File Formats|gcode]] files. CAM tools convert STL files into gcode files. The official STL files for [[Mendel]] are stored in the reprap [[Wikipedia:Apache Subversion|subversion]] repository. To get a copy of these files, run the following commands in ubuntu:<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install subversion<br />
svn co https://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/svnroot/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/cartesian-robot-m4/printed-parts/<br />
<br />
This will create a directory full of STL files that you can then give to your neighbor that already has a reprap and they can print out the parts for you. You will also notice that this directory contains [[File Types|AoI files]]. These files are for [[AoI|Art of Illusion]]. It is the CAD application that was used to design the parts and then save them as STL files.<br />
<br />
=== Firmware ===<br />
Reprap electronics are controlled by an inexpensive CPU such as the Atmel AVR processor. Atmel processors are what Arduino-based microcontrollers use. These processors are very wimpy compared to even the average 10 to 15 year old PC you find in the dump nowadays. However, these ''are'' CPUs so they do run primitive software. This primitive software they run is the Reprap's ''firmware''.<br />
<br />
Of the entire software chain that makes the Reprap work, the firmware portion of it is the closest you get to actual programming. Luckily, there are many people that have done all the heavy lifting already so you don't have to do much or any programming at all. <br />
<br />
To make the electronics work, you download the firmware for your controller's CPU, possibly make some configuration file changes, possibly run some commands, then install the firmware to your electronics. The installation process usually consists of connecting a USB port to your computer and running an application.<br />
<br />
After your microcontroller has its firmware loaded, it is ready to accept [[File Formats|gcode]] files which have the machine-friendly instructions on how to print your part.<br />
<br />
<br />
The following is a brief list of the most popular firmware:<br />
* [[List of Firmware#FiveD|FiveD]]<br />
* [[List of Firmware#Teacup| Teacup]]<br />
* [[List of Firmware#Sprinter|Sprinter]]<br />
For all available firmwares see ''[[List of Firmware]]''<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
To upload firmware to your arduino-based electronics, you use the arduino IDE that you can download from the arduino website.<br />
<br />
==== Files ====<br />
The firmware files are usually [[File Formats|PDE]] files. You open these with the arduino IDE which in turn sends them to the reprap electronics via a USB cable.<br />
<br />
== Electronics ==<br />
A place to start with this is [["Official" Electronics]] and [[RepRapElectronics]] and [[StepperMotor]].<br />
<br />
[https://docs.google.com/View?docid=dgzjfrcc_2gm84ggdb This] document describes the protocol that the [[Generation 3 Electronics]] uses to drip-feed G-codes from the PC to the firmware.<br />
<br />
== Mechanical Body ==<br />
This is the part of the reprap most people are probably eager to build.<br />
<br />
There are around 40 parts in the Mendel that you have to print out from an existing reprap. If you don't have access to another reprap (which is probably 99.9% of the people reading this), you'll have to make those parts by hand using wood or steel I'm guessing. If you don't have a wood workshop or CNC machine, I guess your best bet is to find a local machinist or carpenter that can make them for you.<br />
<br />
A machinist or carpenter should be able to make parts from blueprints. [[Metal Mendel#Photos and Drawings|Metal Mendel]] has some prints for a Mendel that should be useful.<br />
<br />
To make prints for STL files, you pretty much have to redraw them in a 2D or 3D CAD app. If a 3D part is designed in Freecad, it can do the projections (prints) for you but you can't put any dimensions on the parts. According to the Freecad team, you'd have to export the prints as dxf files, and import them to QCad to add dimensions.<br />
<br />
=== Bill of Materials ===<br />
Other than the printable portions of the reprap, again, you'll need a spreadsheet listing parts to buy, suppliers, estimated cost, etc.<br />
<br />
=== Building the Body ===<br />
To build the body, take a look at the STEP file in the source code, look at videos and I think there's stuff elsewhere in this wiki.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel&diff=35978Prusa Mendel2011-06-17T23:00:13Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa Mendel<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of normal [[Mendel]].<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr (design), Kliment (maintenance and documentation), Spacexula (documentation), GregFrost (ideas, refactoring)<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel Variations|Mendel Variations]][[Category:Mendel Variations]]<br />
|cadModel = [[file:Prusa_Mendel.EASM]]<br />
<br />
[[file:Prusa_Mendel.STEP]]<br />
<br />
[[file:Prusa_Mendel_Solidworks_2007_Assembly.zip]]<br />
}}<br />
:''If you are building this machine using SAE (imperial) fasteners, see also [[SAE Prusa Mendel]].''<br />
'''Prusa Mendel does less. But what it does it does better. It's a pure 3D printer.'''<br />
<br />
*If you want to pay more for a cool brand and worse quality, buy a Makerbot.<br />
*If you want a printer that will last forever, buy a Shapercube.<br />
*If you want to use linear bearings, go ahead and modify it.<br />
*(I've been corrected that Prusa and Sells are both crappy for milling; if you want to mill, [http://www.engadget.com/2011/05/31/mtm-snap-project-lets-you-build-your-own-cnc-machine-so-you-can/ check this out].) <s>If you want to do milling, its probably not as good as Sells Mendel in case of milling more then PCBs.</s><br />
<br />
Prusa's main goal is to be the purest and simplest 3D printer you can build.<br />
<br />
*It's much simpler to build it.<br />
*It's much simpler to modify it.<br />
*It's much simpler to print it for your friends. <br />
*It's much simpler to repair it.<br />
<br />
*Because of small complexity, it can be living thing. I update it all the time. It's unique feature but it should be standard. We are living in feature, we don't care if it's a bit different every time; our printer will print it in same time ;-)<br />
<br />
Prusa Mendel is the Ford Model T of 3D printers.<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of the original [[Mendel]]. It uses bushings instead of regular bearings. The current version uses three 608 bearings in total, one for the X axis and two for the Y axis. The 624 bearings are gone altogether. I have the entire machine up and running, with printed PLA bushings. It's pretty smooth.<br />
<br/><br />
__TOC__<br />
<div style="clear:both"></div><br />
<videoflash>tyVM3-v84I0</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel.<br />
<br />
You can follow the changes on [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/commits/master Changelog].<br />
<br />
You can sign up for github for free and fork the project to begin working on it.<br />
<br />
=== History ===<br />
* http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-pla-bushings.html<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials ==<br />
<br />
=== Printed Parts ===<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Diagram<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || coupling || RP || || [[File:Pm-coupler.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || endstop-holder || RP || || [[File:Pm-endstop-holder.png|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-carriage || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-cariage.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-end-idler || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-idler.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-end-motor || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-motor.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || y-motor-bracket || RP || || [[File:Pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || z-motor-mount || RP || || [[File:Pm-z-motor.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || belt-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-belt-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 8 || bar-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-bar-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || rod-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-rod-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || pulley || RP || || [[File:Pm-pulley.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || frame-vertex with foot || RP || || [[File:Pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || frame-vertex || RP || || [[File:Pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 12 || pla-bushing || RP-PLA || check your build file, the file makes either 4 or 12 || [[File:Pm-bushings.jpg|50px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Non-Printed Parts ("vitamins") ===<br />
<br />
'''Note that additional parts are required for the extruder, although some extruder parts are included in the table below.'''<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|+Required<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
|-<br />
| 83 || M8 nut || Fastener || Buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side.<br />
|-<br />
| 93 || M8 washer || Fastener || Buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side.<br />
|-<br />
| 6 || M8×30 mudguard / fender washer || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4×20 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4 nut || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4 washer || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 22 || M3×10 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 16 || M3×25 bolt || Fastener || Or eight M3×25 bolt plus eight M3x20 bolts. The M3x25 bolts are too long for the recent Prusa z-motor-holder and rod-clamp, and also for the Z motor couplings. See Section 8, steps 4 and 13 for details.<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || M3×40 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 70 || M3 washer || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 40 || M3 nut || Fastener || 8 optionally locknut / stop nut / nyloc<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M3 grub screw / set screw || Fastener || M3x8 seems about ideal but anything 6mm or longer should do<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || 608 roller skate / inline skate / skateboard bearing || Bearings ||<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || ballpoint pen springs || Spring || To fit over M3 bolts. Ballpoint pens are a common, cheap source of suitable springs. They are about 25mm long and compress to about 10mm.<br />
|-<br />
| 6 || M8×370mm || Threaded rod || 3 per side<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || M8×294mm || Threaded rod || front / rear<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || M8×440mm || Threaded rod || top / bottom<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M8×210mm || Threaded rod || Z-leadscrew<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || M8×50mm || Threaded rod || or M8x30 or longer bolt for X idler. Take care: if the bolt is too long, it may not be threaded along a sufficient length<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×495mm || Smooth rod || X-bar (''consensus seems to be that this is too long, and 420mm might be a better length, but this still requires confirmation from a finished builder''. [As a [[User:Garyhodgson|"finished builder"]] I can confirm 420mm would be better.])<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×406mm || Smooth rod || Y-bar<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×350mm || Smooth rod || Z-bar<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 225mm×225mm print top plate || Thick Sheet ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 140mm×225mm print bottom plate || Thick Sheet ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 840mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 1380mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt ||<br />
|-<br />
| 5 || NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor || Stepper || Be sure to get ones with ~20mm of shaft length. Shorter shafts require modifications to the X pulley assembly and Z motor couplers. One of the five motors, for use with the extruder, should be capable of creating a holding torque of at least 40Ncm.<br />
|-<br />
| 50 || small cable binder / ziptie || Misc ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] || || for 1.75mm filament [[RepRap Universal Mini Extruder]]; or any other compatible extruder for either<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || Electronics + endstops || || This can be [[RAMPS]], [[Pololu Electronics]], [[Generation 6 Electronics|Gen6]], [[Generation 7 Electronics|Gen7]], [[Generation 3 Electronics|Gen3]], or anything else compatible. Endstops are either optical switches or microswitches, three of each.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|+Optional<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || 30mm×10mm Optoflags || Thin Sheet || if using opto endstops<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm ID spring || Spring || to eliminate backlash in the z axis<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || object with precisely 290mm length || || for frame alignment<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || object with precisely 234mm length || || for frame alignment<br />
|}<br />
<br />
You can combine the latter two by having a piece of thick sheet with dimensions 290mm×234mm. Make sure to mark which side is which.<br />
<br />
When cutting the threaded rods from 1m lengths, you will need 6x1m pieces (or 5x1m pieces and 1x50cm piece). Cut them as follows:<br />
Rod 1: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm (The last piece will end up somewhat shorter than 50mm. Use it for your idler. Alternatively, an M8x30 or longer bolt can be used.)<br />
Rod 2: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm<br />
Rod 3: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 4: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 5: 440mm, 440mm, ~120mm<br />
Rod 6: 440mm<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel uses the 4 drivers in the standard Mendel electronics package to drive 5 motors by using "two steppers wired in parallel to one driver" [http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-y-and-z-axes.html].<br />
<br />
=== Where To Purchase ===<br />
<br />
See the [[Mendel Buyers Guide]] for information on where to purchase all of the parts needed.<br />
<br />
== Printing the Parts ==<br />
[[File:Prusa.jpg|right|thumbnail|300px|A printed set of Prusa Mendel parts]]<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a Mendel ===<br />
An easier option then individually printing each part if you are printing Prusa on a RepRap Mendel is the pre-assembled build file containing the Prusa parts. With this option you only need to print the Mendel plate and the PLA bushings to get a complete Prusa Mendel:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mendelplate.stl Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/pla-bushing.stl PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]] ===<br />
There are also pre-assembled build files available to fit your [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]]'s build area (download using right click => save as)<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' <br />
* These plates are 85x95mm in size. <br />
<br />
Plates for the MakerBot (the plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate1.stl Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate2.stl Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate3.stl Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate4.stl Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate5.stl Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on anything else ===<br />
Last but not least, if you have a machine that doesn't fit into any of the previous options all the .stl files necessary to print a Prusa Mendel are available on the [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel PrusaMendel Github] where you can download them and print them individually.<br />
<br />
=== Buy the printed parts ===<br />
[[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#RepRapped_Parts_Kits]]<br />
<br />
== Assembly ==<br />
Assembly instructions >> [[Prusa Mendel Assembly]].<br />
<br />
== Media ==<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyVM3-v84I0 Two printers simultaneously] - Prusa and shaper cube working side by side.<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh3S9aOMRhU Prusa homing using endstops]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8c5fB9Ozek Prusa development overview]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MvUD-tuOX0 Prusa Y axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-pDYDnHYaQ Prusa Z axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNRapg2gaPg Early preview of the Prusa Mendel redesign]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/56020395@N06/sets/72157625420636778/show/ Fumon's Prusa build session 1] - D1plo1d building Fumon's Prusa Mendel at Hacklab.to. Should give a hint as to how the Prusa Mendel parts go together.<br />
<br />
== Prusa Improvements/Hacks ==<br />
* Rob's [[Auto-centering shaft coupler]] - designed to reduce shaft/motor vibrations (print 2/replaces 2x coupler). May require widening the openings on the z motor mounts to allow the rotation of the zip tie. Use a zip tie gun to get maximum compression on the coupling.<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[PLA bushings]]<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
* [http://prusadjs.cz/ Prusa's Blog]<br />
* [http://feeds.feedburner.com/Prusabuilders Prusa Builder Blog Feed]<br />
* [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel Assembly photo gallery]<br />
* [http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/ Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions] - A nicely formatted version of the assembly process in PDF.<br />
* [http://www.lulu.com/product/paperback/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/15227669 Paperback version] the Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions, also available [http://www.lulu.com/product/paperback/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions-in-color/15227706 in color].</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel&diff=34370Prusa Mendel2011-05-23T16:23:20Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa Mendel<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of normal [[Mendel]].<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr (design), Kliment (maintenance and documentation)<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel Variations|Mendel Variations]][[Category:Mendel Variations]]<br />
|cadModel = [[file:Prusa_Mendel.EASM]]<br />
<br />
[[file:Prusa_Mendel.STEP]]<br />
<br />
[[file:Prusa_Mendel_Solidworks_2007_Assembly.zip]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Prusa Mendel does less. But what it does it does better. Its pure 3D printer.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
*If you want to be cool and pay more, Makerbot is better at this.<br />
*If you want printer which will last forever, buy Shapercube.<br />
*If you want to use linear bearings, go ahead and modify it.<br />
*(I've been corrected that Prusa and Sells are both crappy for milling.) <s>If you want to do milling, its probably not as good as Sells Mendel in case of milling more then PCBs. </s><br />
<br />
Main goal is to get purest and simplest printer you can build. <br />
*It's much simpler to modify it.<br />
*It's much simpler to build it.<br />
*It's much simpler to print it for your friends. <br />
*It's much simpler to repair it.<br />
*Because of small complexity, it can be living thing. I update it all the time. It's unique feature but it should be standard. We are living in feature, we don't care if its bit different every time, our printer will print it in same time ;-)<br />
<br />
Prusa Mendel is Ford T of 3D printers.<br />
<br />
Also see [[SAE Prusa Mendel]] if you are building this machine using SAE (Imperial) Fasterers<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of the original [[Mendel]]. I wanted to use bushings instead of regular bearings. The current version uses three 608 bearings in total, one for the X and two for the Y axis. The 624 bearings are gone altogether.<br />
I have the entire machine up and running, with my printed PLA bushings. It's pretty smooth.<br />
<br />
For those with less technical know-how, once you've got your parts together you can follow this great visual guide for assembling the Prusa: [http://issuu.com/garyhodgson/docs/prusa_mendel_visual_instructions]<br />
<br/><br />
__TOC__<br />
<div style="clear:both"></div><br />
<videoflash>tyVM3-v84I0</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel<br />
<br />
You can follow the changes on [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/commits/master Changelog]<br />
<br />
You can sign up for github for free and fork the project to begin working on it.<br />
<br />
=== History ===<br />
* http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-pla-bushings.html<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials ==<br />
<br />
=== Printed Parts ===<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Diagram<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || coupling || RP || || [[File:Pm-coupler.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || endstop-holder || RP || || [[File:Pm-endstop-holder.png|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-carriage || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-cariage.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-end-idler || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-idler.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-end-motor || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-motor.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || y-motor-bracket || RP || || [[File:Pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || z-motor-mount || RP || || [[File:Pm-z-motor.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || belt-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-belt-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 8 || bar-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-bar-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || rod-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-rod-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || pulley || RP || || [[File:Pm-pulley.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || frame-vertex with foot || RP || || [[File:Pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || frame-vertex || RP || || [[File:Pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 12 || pla-bushing || RP-PLA || check your build file, the file makes either 4 or 12 || [[File:Pm-bushings.jpg|50px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Non-Printed Parts ("vitamins") ===<br />
<br />
'''Note that additional parts are required for the extruder, although some extruder parts are included in the table below.'''<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|+Required<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
|-<br />
| 83 || M8 nut || Fastener || Buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side.<br />
|-<br />
| 93 || M8 washer || Fastener || Buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side.<br />
|-<br />
| 6 || M8×30 mudguard / fender washers || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4×20 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4 nut || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4 washer || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 22 || M3×10 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 16 || M3×25 bolt || Fastener || Or eight M3×25 bolt plus eight M3x20 bolts. The M3x25 bolts are too long for the recent Prusa z-motor-holder and rod-clamp, and also for the Z motor couplings. See Section 8, steps 4 and 13 for details. ||<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || M3×40 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 70 || M3 washer || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 40 || M3 nut || Fastener || 8 optionally locknut / stop nut / nyloc<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M3 grub screw / set screw || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || 608 roller skate / inline skate / skateboard bearing || Bearings ||<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || ballpoint pen springs || Spring ||<br />
|-<br />
| 6 || M8×370mm || Threaded rod || 3 per side<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || M8×294mm || Threaded rod || front / rear<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || M8×440mm || Threaded rod || top / bottom<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M8×210mm || Threaded rod || Z-leadscrew<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || M8×50mm || Threaded rod || or bolt for X idler<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×495mm || Smooth rod || X-bar (''consensus seems to be that this is too long, and 420mm might be a better length, but this still requires confirmation from a finished builder''. [As a [[User:Garyhodgson|"finished builder"]] I can confirm 420mm would be better.])<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×406mm || Smooth rod || Y-bar<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×350mm || Smooth rod || Z-bar<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 225mm×225mm print top plate || Thick Sheet ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 140mm×225mm print bottom plate || Thick Sheet ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 840mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 1380mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt ||<br />
|-<br />
| 5 || NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor || Stepper || Be sure to get ones with ~20mm of shaft length. Shorter shafts require modifications to the X pulley assembly and Z motor couplers. One of the five motors, for use with the extruder, should be capable of creating a holding torque of at least 40Ncm.<br />
|-<br />
| 50 || small cable binder / ziptie || Misc ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] || || for 1.75mm filament [[RepRap Universal Mini Extruder]]; or any other compatible extruder for either<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || Electronics + endstops || || this can be [[RAMPS]], [[Pololu Electronics]], [[Generation 6 Electronics|Gen6]], [[Generation 3 Electronics|Gen3]], or anything else compatible<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|+Optional<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || 30mm×10mm Optoflags || Thin Sheet || if using opto endstops<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm ID spring || Spring || if using opto endstops<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || object with precisely 290mm length || || for frame alignment<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || object with precisely 234mm length || || for frame alignment<br />
|}<br />
<br />
You can combine the latter two by having a piece of thick sheet with dimensions 290mm×234mm. Make sure to mark which side is which.<br />
<br />
When cutting the threaded rods from 1m lengths, you will need 6x 1m pieces (or 5x 1m pieces and 1x 50cm piece). Cut them as follows:<br />
Rod 1: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm (the last piece will turn up somewhat shorter than 50mm. Use it for your idler)<br />
Rod 2: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm<br />
Rod 3: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 4: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 5: 440mm, 440mm, ~120mm<br />
Rod 6: 440mm<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel uses the 4 drivers in the standard Mendel electronics package to drive 5 motors by using "two steppers wired in parallel to one driver" [http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-y-and-z-axes.html].<br />
<br />
=== Where To Purchase ===<br />
<br />
See the [[Mendel Buyers Guide]] for information on where to purchase all of the parts needed.<br />
<br />
== Printing the Parts ==<br />
[[File:Prusa.jpg|right|thumbnail|300px|A printed set of Prusa Mendel parts]]<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a Mendel ===<br />
An easier option then individually printing each part if you are printing Prusa on a RepRap Mendel is the pre-assembled build file containing the Prusa parts. With this option you only need to print the Mendel plate and the PLA bushings to get a complete Prusa Mendel:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mendelplate.stl Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/pla-bushing.stl PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
SAE versions:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mendelplate.stl SAE Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/pla-bushing.stl SAE PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]] ===<br />
There are also pre-assembled build files available to fit your [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]]'s build area (download using right click => save as)<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' <br />
* These plates are 85x95mm in size. <br />
<br />
Plates for the MakerBot (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate1.stl Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate2.stl Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate3.stl Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate4.stl Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate5.stl Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
SAE versions: (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate1.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate2.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate3.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate4.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate5.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on anything else ===<br />
Last but not least, if you have a machine that doesn't fit into any of the previous options all the .stl files necessary to print a Prusa Mendel are available on the [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel PrusaMendel Github] where you can download them and print them individually.<br />
<br />
=== Buy the printed parts ===<br />
[[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#RepRapped_Parts_Kits]]<br />
<br />
== Assembly ==<br />
Assembly instructions >> [[Prusa Mendel Assembly]]<br />
<br />
There is also a [http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions visual guide] available, showing each of the steps below with follow-along images: [[File:PrusaMendelVisualInstructionsFrontPage.png|border|150px|alt=http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions|link=http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions|Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions Front Page]]<br />
<br />
== Media ==<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyVM3-v84I0 Two printers simultaneously] - Prusa and shaper cube working side by side.<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh3S9aOMRhU Prusa homing using enstops]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8c5fB9Ozek Prusa development overview]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MvUD-tuOX0 Prusa Y axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-pDYDnHYaQ Prusa Z axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNRapg2gaPg Early preview of the Prusa Mendel redesign]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/56020395@N06/sets/72157625420636778/show/ Fumon's Prusa build session 1] - D1plo1d building Fumon's Prusa Mendel at Hacklab.to. Should give a hint as to how the Prusa Mendel parts go together.<br />
<br />
== Prusa Improvements/Hacks ==<br />
* Rob's [[Auto-centering shaft coupler]] - designed to reduce shaft/motor vibrations (print 2/replaces 2x coupler). May require widening the openings on the z motor mounts to allow the rotation of the zip tie. Use a zip tie gun to get maximum compression on the coupling.<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[PLA bushings]]<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
* [http://prusadjs.cz/ Prusa's Blog]<br />
* [http://feeds.feedburner.com/Prusabuilders Prusa Builder Blog Feed]<br />
* [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel assembly photo gallery]<br />
* [http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/ Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions] - A nicely formatted version of the assembly process in PDF.<br />
* [http://www.lulu.com/product/paperback/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/15227669 Paperback version] the Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions, also available [http://www.lulu.com/product/paperback/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions-in-color/15227706 in color].</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Czech_Republic&diff=33935RUG/Czech Republic2011-05-17T14:01:55Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
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<h2 id="mainPage.news.title" style="background:#eeeeee; font-size: 105%; line-height: 120%; font-weight: bold; padding: 0px; margin:0px;padding: 0.4em;"><br />
[[Image:20px-Exquisite-khelpcenter.png|frameless|right]][http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?221 Forum/Mailing List]</h2><br />
<div id="mainPage.news.text" style="padding:0px 10px 10px;"><br />
{{#widget:Feed<br />
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</div><br />
<br />
=Please Log In and Edit=<br />
<br />
=Translation=<br />
*[[RepRapWiki:Translations]]<br />
*[[YourLanguage]]<br />
<br />
=Where to get parts=<br />
Local Shops may be better or worse than buying from online retailers. This depends on your local shops and what you're getting. Stepper motors you'll want to get online, steel rod - perhaps not. Fasteners, it depends. You may want to check your yellow pages to look these up, as opposed to online.<br />
<br />
==Plastic parts==<br />
*[[http://josefprusa.cz/ Prusajr]] prints<br />
*[[http://diy4fun.blogspot.com/ Miroslav Batek]] has printing Mendel too, dunno if he prints parts.<br />
*[[http://brmlab.cz Brmlab hackerspace]] is building Prusa Mendel, few weeks to finish (5.1.2011)<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
* [http://www.hwkitchen.com/ HW Kitchen] - Arduino a shieldy (Šenov)<br />
* [http://shop.snailinstruments.com SnailInstruments] - Ovladače krokových motorů (Beroun)<br />
* [http://www.czechduino.cz CzechDuriono] - Arduino desky a příslušenství (Plzeň)<br />
<br />
[[User:Prusajr]] Jeste tu neni nikdo kdo by prodaval RAMPS shield, ktery je potreba pro reprap :-/<br />
<br />
==Motors==<br />
All local stuff is extreamly pricey. <br />
[[http://www.slidesandballscrews.com/ Zapp]] is best, but from UK tho :-/<br />
<br />
==Mechanical stuff==<br />
* [[http://www.ferona.cz/ Ferona]] carries all and is in Prague. Local shops should be fine too.<br />
* [[http://www.vjrousek.cz/ Rousek]] sell almost all kinds of nuts, screws, washers for good price.<br />
<br />
==Belts==<br />
[[http://www.tyma.cz/ Tyma]] has belts and pulleys. Pricier then online sources tho.<br />
<br />
=Meetings=<br />
* [http://brmlab.cz BrmLab hackerspace] every tuesday from 6PM. (Prague)<br />
<br />
=Nearby Robot Hobby Clubs=<br />
* local First Robotics Competition<br />
* local [[RoboOne]] and [[Robot]] hobby group.<br />
<br />
=Keyword searches to help you find Geek Groups Meetups=<br />
(keywords: your town, artist-run center, artbot, barcamp, dorkbot, experimental media, ham radio, linux, arduino, blender, circuit bending, RC aircraft, rocketry, cnc, etc.)<br />
This will require a few google searches, where you enter your town and one of the keywords above into the following string:<br />
"Your Town" keyword (meetup OR meeting OR group OR club OR society OR workshop OR hobby)<br />
[dorkbot.org]<br />
[www.arduino.cc]<br />
<br />
* Local/Nearest FabLab or Techshop, <br />
<br />
* Community College with a Machine Shop that people can use?<br />
<br />
* CNC Group Meetups on cnczone.com or otherwise<br />
[www.google.ca]<br />
<br />
=Official RepRap Suppliers=<br />
*http://dev.forums.reprap.org/index.php?93<br />
*[[Suppliers]]<br />
<br />
=Members=<br />
*[[User:Prusajr]]<br />
*[[User:Qantip]]<br />
*<br />
<br />
=Projects=<br />
*[[Example|A Cool Bipedal Robot]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:RUG]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Czech_Republic&diff=33932RUG/Czech Republic2011-05-17T13:54:30Z<p>Prusajr: /* Electronics */</p>
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[[Image:20px-Exquisite-khelpcenter.png|frameless|right]][http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?221 Forum/Mailing List]</h2><br />
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<br />
=Please Log In and Edit=<br />
<br />
=Translation=<br />
*[[RepRapWiki:Translations]]<br />
*[[YourLanguage]]<br />
<br />
=Where to get parts=<br />
Local Shops may be better or worse than buying from online retailers. This depends on your local shops and what you're getting. Stepper motors you'll want to get online, steel rod - perhaps not. Fasteners, it depends. You may want to check your yellow pages to look these up, as opposed to online.<br />
<br />
==Plastic parts==<br />
*[[http://josefprusa.cz/ Prusajr]] prints<br />
*[[http://diy4fun.blogspot.com/ Miroslav Batek]] has printing Mendel too, dunno if he prints parts.<br />
*[[http://brmlab.cz Brmlab hackerspace]] is building Prusa Mendel, few weeks to finish (5.1.2011)<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
* [http://www.hwkitchen.com/ HW Kitchen] - Arduino a shieldy (Šenov)<br />
* [http://shop.snailinstruments.com SnailInstruments] - Ovladače krokových motorů (Beroun)<br />
* [http://www.czechduino.cz CzechDuriono] - Arduino desky a příslušenství (Plzeň)<br />
<br />
[[User:Prusajr]] Jeste tu neni nikdo kdo by prodaval RAMPS shield, ktery je potreba pro reprap :-/<br />
<br />
==Motors==<br />
All local stuff is extreamly pricey. <br />
[[http://www.slidesandballscrews.com/ Zapp]] is best, but from UK tho :-/<br />
<br />
==Mechanical stuff==<br />
* [[http://www.ferona.cz/ Ferona]] carries all and is in Prague. Local shops should be fine too.<br />
* [[http://www.vjrousek.cz/ Rousek]] sell almost all kinds of nuts, screws, washers for good price.<br />
<br />
==Belts==<br />
[[http://www.tyma.cz/ Tyma]] has belts and pulleys. Pricier then online sources tho.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Meetings=<br />
==Location==<br />
[[User:Prusajr|Prusajr's]] House, <br />
=Free Beer=<br />
*Granát, Plzeň<br />
*(bring pretzels)<br />
<br />
RepRap [[Map]] link.<br />
<br />
==Time==<br />
''Arbitrarily: 7pm Tuesday every other week, starting with the second Tuesday in January. (edit this)''<br />
<br />
=Nearby Robot Hobby Clubs=<br />
* local First Robotics Competition<br />
* local [[RoboOne]] and [[Robot]] hobby group.<br />
<br />
=Keyword searches to help you find Geek Groups Meetups=<br />
(keywords: your town, artist-run center, artbot, barcamp, dorkbot, experimental media, ham radio, linux, arduino, blender, circuit bending, RC aircraft, rocketry, cnc, etc.)<br />
This will require a few google searches, where you enter your town and one of the keywords above into the following string:<br />
"Your Town" keyword (meetup OR meeting OR group OR club OR society OR workshop OR hobby)<br />
[dorkbot.org]<br />
[www.arduino.cc]<br />
<br />
* Local/Nearest FabLab or Techshop, <br />
<br />
* Community College with a Machine Shop that people can use?<br />
<br />
* CNC Group Meetups on cnczone.com or otherwise<br />
[www.google.ca]<br />
<br />
=Official RepRap Suppliers=<br />
*http://dev.forums.reprap.org/index.php?93<br />
*[[Suppliers]]<br />
<br />
=Members=<br />
*[[User:Prusajr]]<br />
*[[User:Qantip]]<br />
*[[User:Example User]]<br />
*<br />
*<br />
<br />
=Projects=<br />
*[[Example|A Cool Bipedal Robot]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:RUG]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel&diff=31606Prusa Mendel2011-04-12T17:00:05Z<p>Prusajr: /* Assembly */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa Mendel<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of normal [[Mendel]].<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr (design), Kliment (maintenance and documentation)<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel Variations|Mendel Variations]][[Category:Mendel Variations]]<br />
|cadModel = [[file:Prusa_Mendel.EASM]]<br />
<br />
[[file:Prusa_Mendel.STEP]]<br />
<br />
[[file:Prusa_Mendel_Solidworks_2007_Assembly.zip]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Prusa Mendel does less. But what it does it does better. Its pure 3D printer.'''<br />
<br />
*If you want to do milling, its probably not as good as Sells Mendel in case of milling more then PCBs.<br />
*If you want to be cool and pay more, Makerbot is better at this.<br />
*If you want printer which will last forever, buy Shapercube.<br />
*If you want to use linear bearings, go ahead and modify it. <br />
<br />
Main goal is to get purest and simplest printer you can build. <br />
*It's much simpler to modify it.<br />
*It's much simpler to build it.<br />
*It's much simpler to print it for your friends. <br />
*It's much simpler to repair it.<br />
*Because of small complexity, it can be living thing. I update it all the time. It's unique feature but it should be standard. We are living in feature, we don't care if its bit different every time, our printer will print it in same time ;-)<br />
<br />
Prusa Mendel is Ford T of 3D printers.<br />
<br />
Also see [[SAE Prusa Mendel]] if you are building this machine using SAE (Imperial) Fasterers<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of the original [[Mendel]]. I wanted to use bushings instead of regular bearings. The current version uses three 608 bearings in total, one for the X and two for the Y axis. The 624 bearings are gone altogether.<br />
I have the entire machine up and running, with my printed PLA bushings. It's pretty smooth.<br />
<br/><br />
__TOC__<br />
<div style="clear:both"></div><br />
<videoflash>tyVM3-v84I0</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel<br />
<br />
You can follow the changes on [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/commits/master Changelog]<br />
<br />
You can sign up for github for free and fork the project to begin working on it.<br />
<br />
=== History ===<br />
* http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-pla-bushings.html<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials ==<br />
<br />
=== Printed Parts ===<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Diagram<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || coupling || RP || || [[File:Pm-coupler.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || endstop-holder || RP || ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-carriage || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-cariage.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-end-idler || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-idler.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-end-motor || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-motor.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || y-motor-bracket || RP || || [[File:Pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || z-motor-mount || RP || || [[File:Pm-z-motor.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || belt-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-belt-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 8 || bar-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-bar-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || rod-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-rod-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || pulley || RP || || [[File:Pm-pulley.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || frame-vertex with foot || RP || || [[File:Pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || frame-vertex || RP || || [[File:Pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 12 || pla-bushing || RP-PLA || check your build file, the file makes either 4 or 12 || [[File:Pm-bushings.jpg|50px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Non-Printed Parts ("vitamins") ===<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|+Required<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
|-<br />
| 83 || M8 nut || Fastener || Buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side.<br />
|-<br />
| 93 || M8 washer || Fastener || Buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side.<br />
|-<br />
| 6 || M8×30 mudguard / fender washers || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4×20 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4 nut || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4 washer || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 22 || M3×10 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 16 || M3×25 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || M3×40 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 70 || M3 washer || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 40 || M3 nut || Fastener || 8 optionally locknut / stop nut / nyloc<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M3 grub screw / set screw || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || 608 roller skate / inline skate / skateboard bearing || Bearings ||<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || ballpoint pen springs || Spring ||<br />
|-<br />
| 6 || M8×370mm || Threaded rod || 3 per side<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || M8×294mm || Threaded rod || front / rear<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || M8×440mm || Threaded rod || top / bottom<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M8×210mm || Threaded rod || Z-leadscrew<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || M8×50mm || Threaded rod || or bolt for X idler<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×495mm || Smooth rod || X-bar (''consensus seems to be that this is too long, and 420mm might be a better length, but this still requires confirmation from a finished builder''. [As a [[User:Garyhodgson|"finished builder"]] I can confirm 420mm would be better.])<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×406mm || Smooth rod || Y-bar<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×350mm || Smooth rod || Z-bar<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 225mm×225mm print top plate || Thick Sheet ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 140mm×225mm print bottom plate || Thick Sheet ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 840mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 1380mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt ||<br />
|-<br />
| 5 || NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor || Stepper ||<br />
|-<br />
| 50 || small cable binder / ziptie || Misc ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] || || or any other compatible extruder<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || Electronics + endstops || || this can be [[RAMPS]], [[Pololu Electronics]], [[Generation 6 Electronics|Gen6]], [[Generation 3 Electronics|Gen3]], or anything else compatible<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|+Optional<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || 30mm×10mm Optoflags || Thin Sheet || if using opto endstops<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm ID spring || Spring || if using opto endstops<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || object with precisely 290mm length || || for frame alignment<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || object with precisely 234mm length || || for frame alignment<br />
|}<br />
<br />
You can combine the latter two by having a piece of thick sheet with dimensions 290mm×234mm. Make sure to mark which side is which.<br />
<br />
When cutting the threaded rods from 1m lengths, you will need 6x 1m pieces (or 5x 1m pieces and 1x 50cm piece). Cut them as follows:<br />
Rod 1: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm (the last piece will turn up somewhat shorter than 50mm. Use it for your idler)<br />
Rod 2: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm<br />
Rod 3: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 4: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 5: 440mm, 440mm, ~120mm<br />
Rod 6: 440mm<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel uses the 4 drivers in the standard Mendel electronics package to drive 5 motors by using "two steppers wired in parallel to one driver" [http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-y-and-z-axes.html].<br />
<br />
=== Where To Purchase ===<br />
<br />
See the [[Mendel Buyers Guide]] for information on where to purchase all of the parts needed.<br />
<br />
== Printing the Parts ==<br />
[[File:Prusa.jpg|right|thumbnail|300px|A printed set of Prusa Mendel parts]]<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a Mendel ===<br />
An easier option then individually printing each part if you are printing Prusa on a RepRap Mendel is the pre-assembled build file containing the Prusa parts. With this option you only need to print the Mendel plate and the PLA bushings to get a complete Prusa Mendel:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mendelplate.stl Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/pla-bushing.stl PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
SAE versions:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mendelplate.stl SAE Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/pla-bushing.stl SAE PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]] ===<br />
There are also pre-assembled build files available to fit your [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]]'s build area (download using right click => save as)<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' <br />
* These plates are 85x95mm in size. <br />
<br />
Plates for the MakerBot (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate1.stl Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate2.stl Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate3.stl Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate4.stl Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate5.stl Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
SAE versions: (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate1.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate2.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate3.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate4.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate5.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on anything else ===<br />
Last but not least, if you have a machine that doesn't fit into any of the previous options all the .stl files necessary to print a Prusa Mendel are available on the [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel PrusaMendel Github] where you can download them and print them individually.<br />
<br />
=== Buy the printed parts ===<br />
[[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#RepRapped_Parts_Kits]]<br />
<br />
== Assembly ==<br />
Assembly instructions >> [[Prusa Mendel Assembly]]<br />
<br />
There is also a [http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions visual guide] available, showing each of the steps below with follow-along images: [[File:PrusaMendelVisualInstructionsFrontPage.png|border|150px|alt=http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions|link=http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions|Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions Front Page]]<br />
<br />
== Media ==<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyVM3-v84I0 Two printers simultaneously] - Prusa and shaper cube working side by side.<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh3S9aOMRhU Prusa homing using enstops]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8c5fB9Ozek Prusa development overview]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MvUD-tuOX0 Prusa Y axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-pDYDnHYaQ Prusa Z axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNRapg2gaPg Early preview of the Prusa Mendel redesign]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/56020395@N06/sets/72157625420636778/show/ Fumon's Prusa build session 1] - D1plo1d building Fumon's Prusa Mendel at Hacklab.to. Should give a hint as to how the Prusa Mendel parts go together.<br />
<br />
== Prusa Improvements/Hacks ==<br />
* Rob's [[Auto-centering shaft coupler]] - designed to reduce shaft/motor vibrations (print 2/replaces 2x coupler). May require widening the openings on the z motor mounts to allow the rotation of the zip tie. Use a zip tie gun to get maximum compression on the coupling.<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[PLA bushings]]<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
* [http://prusadjs.cz/ Prusa's Blog]<br />
* [http://feeds.feedburner.com/Prusabuilders Prusa Builder Blog Feed]<br />
* [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel assembly photo gallery]<br />
* [http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/ Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions] - A nicely formatted version of the assembly process in PDF.<br />
* [http://www.lulu.com/product/paperback/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/15227669 Paperback version] the Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions, also available [http://www.lulu.com/product/paperback/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions-in-color/15227706 in color].</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Assembly&diff=31604Prusa Mendel Assembly2011-04-12T16:56:19Z<p>Prusajr: Created page with '== Prusa Mendel Assembly == Prusa Mendel For the visually oriented, have a look at this [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel photo gallery] of an ongoing Mende…'</p>
<hr />
<div>== Prusa Mendel Assembly ==<br />
[[Prusa Mendel]]<br />
<br />
<br />
For the visually oriented, have a look at this [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel photo gallery] of an ongoing Mendel Prusa build.<br />
<br />
There is also a [http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions visual guide] available, showing each of the steps below with follow-along images: [[File:PrusaMendelVisualInstructionsFrontPage.png|border|150px|alt=http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions|link=http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions|Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions Front Page]]<br />
<br />
And now also [[Prusa_en_fran%C3%A7ais_-_Prusa_in_French]] for a translated build.<br />
<br />
===Assembling the frame vertex triangles (2x)===<br />
Notes:<br />
*Heating the flat side of a bushing with a hair dryer or heat gun before snapping onto the smooth bar can keep it from snapping.<br />
*If you're using serrated washers these should only be used between nut and plastic - nut-to-fender and fender-to-bearing washers should be flat.<br />
<br />
This part takes 15 minutes per triangle to assemble, for a total of 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
There is a triangle on each side of the Prusa RepRap, you will need to make 2 of these and then connect them together (see next step) to form the Prusa frame. Each side is an equilateral triangle with a frame vertex on each corner. You can use either footed or non-footed vertices to build this (the footed ones look better, but are not critical.) The instructions assume you are using footed vertices.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required (per triangle)'''<br />
* 2 RP footed frame vertices<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP frame vertex (non-footed)<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP bar clamp<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 3 370mm M8 threaded rods<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>-PFy4KhW9gE</videoflash><br />
# Take one of the 370mm threaded rods, and slip an M8 washer onto the middle of it.<br />
# Take the RP bar clamp (the U-shaped bit with the two holes) and slide the threaded rod through the two holes until the clamp sits next to the washer.<br />
# Slide another washer onto the rod from the other side.<br />
# Thread two M8 nuts onto either side of the clamp, until they are next to the washer, but do not tighten them yet.<br />
# Thread another two nuts on each side of the rod, followed by washers. See the picture for what it should look like. <flickr>5188262096|thumb|right|m|The bar clamp on the threaded rod.</flickr><br />
# Slide the rod through the long bottom (footed) side of two vertices. Make sure the feet point in the same direction. Also make sure the bulge on the non-footed side of the vertex points outwards.<br />
# Measure the distance. The distance between the two vertices should be 290mm (along the rod, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Get it approximately right now, we will check this again later. If you have a frame jig, place it between the two vertices and adjust the nuts until you can just barely fit the jig J1 between them.<br />
# Place another washer and nut on the other side of the vertex. Tighten, but not too much. We'll need a bit of flexibility here still.<br />
# Take another 370mm M8 threaded rod and place a nut followed by a washer at each end.<br />
# Place one end of the threaded rod into the one of the two footed frame vertices. It should be in the same plane as the first threaded rod. fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have two sides of the equilateral triangle.<br />
# Take the third piece of threaded rod and put a nut and washer on each end. Place it in the other footed vertex and fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have a triangle of threaded rods with two footed vertices on two of the corners, nothing in the third corner, and a bar clamp between the two vertices.<br />
# Take the third vertex (non-footed) and slide it onto the threaded rods in the final corner of the triangle. Measure the lenghts of the three sides to make sure they are all 290mm long (along the rod from plastic part to plastic part, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Adjust the nuts to make sure this is so. Use the frame jig J1 if you have one. Once done, place a washer and nut on the top of the vertex. Tighten all the outer nuts. <flickr>5188259098|thumb|right|m|The finished frame triangle </flickr><br />
# You should now have a sturdy triangle with equal-length sides, two feet on the bottom, and a bar clamp between the feet. Adjust the nuts around the bar clamp (but do not crush the bar clamp together yet) until it's approximately in the middle of the rod. Leave the nuts there loose. See photo for what you should have at this point.<br />
# That's it, that's one of the triangles done. Repeat the entire procedure for the second triangle. It is exactly identical to the first.<br />
<br />
Now we need to connect the 2 frame triangles to form the Prusa RepRap frame.<br />
<br />
The easiest way to do this is to thread everything onto the front and rear threaded rods and attach those to the triangles first, and then thread the top rods through. That's what the instructions below assume you are doing.<br />
<br style="clear:both"/><br />
<br />
=== Assembling the front threaded rods ===<br />
This step takes about 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the front/bottom vertex of each triangle as well as the y-stage bars and y motor mount to the frame.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP y motor bracket<br />
[[File:pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 18 M8 nuts<br />
* 20 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>9ut45Pe9gkw</videoflash><br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Thread an M8 nut onto the middle of the rod. Slide an M8 washer next to it. <br />
# Thread the rod through the bottom hole of the RP y-motor-bracket. The bottom hole of the bracket is the long, straight side.<flickr>5373622677|thumb|right|m|The long, straight side of the RP Y motor bracket will be parallel to ground when you are all done.</flickr><br />
# Slide another washer onto the other side of the rod and add another M8 nut to hold it in place.<br />
# Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, the y-motor-bracket (with the pointy bit pointed towards you),1 washer, 1 nut, 2 washers, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# When you hold it with the bigger part (with the circular hole) of the motor bracket ''towards you'', it should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <span style="color:red">'''NOTE: this diagram and the text above show three washers and a nut on the upper bar immediately to the right of the motor bracket. This is inconsistent with the assembly detailed below in [[#Assembling the y axis]], where they are missing and the fender washer contacts the bracket directly. Photos have been found of completed printers that appear to support either assembly. Would be good to get clarification.'''</span> <br />
<br/>[[File:front-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# You can now attach this setup to the triangle sides. Make sure the bigger part of the motor bracket points '''OUT''' of the triangle. Thread the ends of the rods through two of the footed vertices. Put a washer and nut on the end of each threaded rod.<br />
It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:front-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the rear threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 20 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the back/bottom vertex of the 2 triangles together as well as the y-stage bars and belt pulley.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>LfjWQKbxPGI</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>Pern6akmEn4</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is again a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# It should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:rear-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# Attach the two rods to the two remaining footed vertices. Thread each end of the rod through the vertex, and add a washer and nut. It should now look like this: <br/> [[File:rear-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
Your frame should now be standing on its own feet without support, but the tops sides of the triangles will still be wobbly. We'll fix that next.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the top threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
These connect the 2 frame triangles at their tops as well as providing mounts for the z-axis motors.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled and connected frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP z motor mounts<br />
[[File:pm-z-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 12 M8 nuts<br />
* 16 M8 washers<br />
* 2 440mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>HI77eGBl4gU</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Slide one of the threaded rods through one side of one of the top vertices. Put a washer, two nuts, and another washer on the part of the rod between the top vertices. This is what it should look like when seen from above: <br/> [[File:top-step1.png|center|750px]]<br />
# Repeat for the other rod. It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:top-step2.png|center|750px]]<br />
# Slide the rods through the opposite side vertex. Thread the nuts up to the vertices on each side.<br />
# To each of the four ends of the threaded rod, add a washer, a nut and another washer. Your setup should now look like this: <br/>[[File:top-step3.png|center|750px]]<br />
# Take one of the RP z motor mounts and attach it to the ends of the threaded rod. The side with the two holes and the indentation should point towards the ''outside''. Add a washer and nut to the end of each rod.<br />
# Repeat this on the other side. The top of the machine should now look like this: <br/> [[File:top.png|center|750px]]<br />
<br />
=== Tightening the frame ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Now that the frame is fully assembled we can adjust and tighten each of its threaded rods. You will need your frame jigs if you have them, or a reasonably precise length measurement tool.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 M8 nuts<br />
* 4 M8 washers<br />
* 1 440mm threaded rod<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. This is your frame jig J2.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>jwvujYvElhM</videoflash><br />
# Verify that the triangle vertices have distance J1 (290mm, equivalent is 11-13/32") from plastic to plastic along each of the three sides. Once you are sure of this, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firmly attached and unable to move, but do not crush the plastic parts.<br />
# Adjust each of the bottom rods until it has distance J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") between the inside ends of the vertices. Use frame jig J2 to check this if you have it. Once you are sure this is true, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firm, but do not crush the plastic.<br />
# Adjust the top of the frame so that the distance between the inside ends of the vertices is precisely J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") and the length of rod outside the vertex on one side is the same as the length outside the vertex on the other side. Double-check the distances before tightening the nut on the outside of the vertex.<br />
# The frame should now be fairly stable. Using a plumb line or similar (for example a nut hanging on a length of yarn), adjust the bar clamps on the bottom side of each triangle until they are close to center of the top vertices. Do not tighten the nuts either side of the bar clamps yet. These need to space the 440 mm rod exactly 1 bar clamp from the center line of the bot. This is so the polished z-rods are exactly centered with the bot and run perfectly vertical.<br />
# Insert the 440mm threaded rod through the two bar clamps on the bottom of the frame. make sure the new rod is on ''top'' of the triangle bottom rod. Adjust it so that the same length sticks out on each side.<br />
# On each side, place a nut, washer, bar clamp (threaded through the holes), washer, and another nut. The hole to which should go the z-running smooth rod should be virtually in center of bottom triangle rods. The setup should look like this when seen from below:<br />
<br/> [[File:bottom-rod.png|center|750px]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the y axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 225x140mm print bottom plate<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 2 406mm smooth rods<br />
* 1 y timing belt<br />
* 1 NEMA 17 stepper motor<br />
* 1 pulley<br />
* 3 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 4 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>A46NKyBos_8</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>7ZBNewV_CWw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Mark each of the four corners of the print bottom plate 8mm (equivalent is ~5/16") from each side with the marker.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole in each of the four corners.<br />
# Clamp the print bottom plate and the print top plate together, so that the bottom plate is equally far from each edge of the top plate. Drill 3mm holes into the top plate through the corner holes in the bottom plate so that they match on both plates.<br />
# Slide the two 406mm smooth rods through the bar clamps on the front and rear threaded rods. They should fit snugly and be approximately parallel. <br />
# Place the narrow side of the "print bottom" plate between the rods. This ensures they are exactly 140mm (equivalent is 5-33/64") apart from each other. Adjust the nuts on the front side bar clamps until the print bottom plate just barely fits between the rods. Try to get them at an approximately equal distance from the middle of the rod. <br />
# Tighten the front nuts just enough that they do not move on their own, but no further.<br />
# Measure the distance from the left front vertex to the left smooth rod. Adjust the distance from the left rear vertex to the left smooth rod to match it. This ensures the left rod is parallel to the frame. Tighten the nuts on the left clamp just enough that they do not move around.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate next to the left smooth rod on the rear side. Adjust the right rear bar clamp's nuts until the narrow side of the bottom plate barely fits between the rods.<br />
# Recheck the distances from the left vertex to the left rod are the same at the front and rear and that the short side of the print bottom plate fits snugly between the smooth rods both at the front and at the rear. This should ensure that the rods are parallel to each other and to the frame. Use the diagram below to see what it should look like from above. <br/> [[File:y-rods.png|center]]<br />
# Tighten the nuts on all of the four bar clamps now.<br />
# Snap 2 PLA bushings onto each of the two smooth rods. Place them about 120mm apart on each rod. Make sure they slide freely on the rods. Put a dab of glue on the top side of the bushings (the side opposite the open side). Carefully place the print bottom plate on top of the bushings, so that it's equally far apart from each of the two triangles (see diagram below). Wait for the glue to dry. <br/> [[File:y-plate.png|center]]<br />
# While the glue is drying, adjust the bearing on the rear threaded rod until it is exactly across from the front threaded rod. Tighten the nuts on the y motor bracket and the bearings at this point. All nuts on the front and rear rods should now be tight.<br />
# Also while the glue is drying, ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel in the pulley that goes to the center hole.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Place the motor with the pulley on it next to the mounting holes in the y motor bracket. Position the motor the left, so that the pulley ends up on the side of the bearing.<br />
# Adjust the pulley position on the shaft so that when the motor is flush with the bracket, the teeth on the pulley are approximately at the position of the bearing.<br />
# Fasten the motor with 3 M3x10 bolts. Put a washer between each bolt and the y motor bracket.<br />
# Tighten the grub screw so that the pulley cannot move along the shaft.<br />
# Position the y belt on top of the print bottom plate and through both of the bearings. Pull lightly on both ends so that it is straight. If the belt is not straight, adjust the position of the rear bearing until it is. Use a marker to mark out the position of the belt on the print bottom plate. Also mark which side of the plate is on the left.<br />
# ''After the glue has dried,'' carefully pop the print bottom plate with the PLA bushings off the rails. Place the two belt clamps perpendicular to the marked position of the belt, several centimeters apart. Make sure the belt position is between the two holes on each clamp. Use a marker to mark where the holes of the belt clamps would be on the plate.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole through each of the four marked belt clamp holes.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate back on the smooth rods, paying attention to the marking to make sure the correct side is on the left.<br />
# Place one end of the belt, toothed side down, where the holes for the front belt clamp are. Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in one of the belt clamps. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt. Leave several centimeters of the belt behind the clamp.<br />
# Put two M3 nuts underneath the plate and thread them onto the bolts. Tighten both nuts so that the end of the belt is firmly attached to the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Pass the belt over the front bearing, around the motor pulley, and then up underneath the plate to the other bearing. Pull it tight, then lay it on top of the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in the second belt clamp. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt. You can always tighten the belt later with 3 zip-ties.[[Tips]]<br />
# Attach an M3 nut to each of the two bolts, and pull the belt tight before tightening the two nuts.<br />
# Turn the motor by hand. It should turn with little effort, and each slight rotation should be matched by a slight movement of the plate. Make sure it slides smoothly along the entire length of the rods. Pushing the plate should immediately make the motor turn. Make sure the belt is not too loose (plate and motor should not be able to move independently) or too tight (taking a lot of effort to move the plate). Once you are confident your belt tension is correct, tighten the clamps very firmly. You may now trim the belt, but leave several centimeters behind each clamp for future adjustment.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the x axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-end-motor<br />
[[File:pm-x-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP x-end-idler<br />
[[File:pm-x-idler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 495mm smooth rods<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 50mm M8 threaded rod<br />
* 3 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8 nuts<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>K9bXwOZOXps</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Drill out the center hole in the hexagonal section of the x-end-idler and x-end-motor parts to 8mm.<br />
# Take the x-end-idler. Check the size of the hole on the flat, thin side surface. If it is 4mm in diameter, enlarge it using a file until it's 8mm in diameter.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps in the long channels on the bottom of the x-end-idler. You may find pulling them into the nut trap using an M3 bolt makes it easier. Thread M3x10 bolts through them, but just far enough that they do not fall out.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps of the x-end-motor part as well. Thread M3x10 bolts through those as above.<br />
# Place the x-end-motor and x-end-idler 50cm apart, so that the hexagonal parts are facing each other.<br />
# Slide the two 495mm smooth rods into the x-end idler. Make sure they go past the nut traps.<br />
# Slide the other ends of the rods into x-end-motor. Make sure they go past the nut traps. The hexagonal sections of the motor and idler should still be facing each other.<br />
# Tighten the M3 bolts on the x-end-idler. The x-end-motor should be able to move along the rods with minor effort. Do ''not'' tighten the x-end-motor bolts yet.<br />
# Thread an M8 nut onto one end of the 50mm threaded rod. (Alternatively, you can use an M8x50 bolt)<br />
# Put the following parts in this order onto the free end of the threaded rod (behind the nut): 1 fender washer, 1 M8 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 M8 washer, 1 fender washer.<br />
# Thread the free end of the threaded rod into the side of the x-end-idler. The bearing should be on the outside. Put an M8 washer and an M8 nut on the inside and tighten both nuts.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the z axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP shaft couplers<br />
[[File:pm-coupler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP rod-clamp<br />
[[File:pm-rod-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x axis assembly (from the previous step)<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 20 M3 washers<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 8 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors<br />
* 2 210mm threaded rods <br />
* 2 330mm smooth rods<br />
* 4 M8 nuts (2 optional)<br />
* 2 8.5mm ID springs (optional)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>v_W7WPdQ3Qo</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>bCK1W3SE1Xs</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Use a spirit level to make sure the two rods at the top of the frame are horizontal. If they are not, stack bits of paper under the vertices at the bottom until they are.<br />
# Drop a plumb line (or a nut tied to a length of yarn) directly down from the indentation on the side of the left z-motor-holder. Adjust the two bar clamps at the bottom of the frame on the left side until the nut falls into the U of the outer clamp. Repeat on the other side.<br />
# Put M3 nuts into the nut traps on both z-motor-holder ends.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on 2 M3x25 bolts and thread them into the flat (non-indented) end of a rod-clamp. Attach the rod-clamp to one of the z-motor-holders. Do not tighten.<br />
#: ''Note: The M3x25 bolts are too long for the recent Prusa z-motor-holder and rod-clamp, and using round headed bolts as shown above will result in the shaft of the bolt interfering with the seating of the z-motor. One could either use shorter bolts (approx. M3x20), or cut the M3x25's to size. An alternative is to use hexagonal bolts, and insert them in reverse with the shaft pointing outwards.''<br />
# Repeat for the other z-motor-holder and rod-clamp.<br />
# Insert a 330mm smooth rod into the space between each z-motor-holder and rod-clamp. Slide it in from the top. On the bottom, insert it into the U of the bottom bar clamp.<br />
# Using the plumb line, check that the smooth rods are vertical. If they are not, adjust the bottom bar clamp positions until they are. This is critical, so take as much time as you need.<br />
# Tighten the nuts on the bar clamps and the bolts on the rod clamps. Check again with the plumb line.<br />
# Place two PLA bushings on each of the smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Position the x-axis assembly inside the frame so that the bushing channels on the x-axis-motor and x-axis-idler align with the bushings. The x-end-idler should be on the right, with the bearing on the rear side of the machine.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Push the rectangular channels of x-end-idler and x-end-motor against the flat of the bushings. Position the x-end-idler against the bushings on the right side of the machine and then slide the x-end-motor along the x-axis smooth rods until it makes contact with the bushings on the left side of the machine. Let the glue dry.<br />
# While the glue is drying, assemble the couplings. Insert an M3x25 bolt, with an M3 washer, through each of the two side holes on each coupling. Put an M3 washer and M3 nut on the other end. Do not tighten yet.<br />
#: ''Note: The M3x25 bolts are a little too long for the couplings, and restrict the vertical movement of the x-chassis, or interfere with the z-axis smooth bars. Either use smaller bolts (M3x20), or cut the M3x25's to size.''<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried'', slide the X axis to the top of the Z axis smooth rod, and place some kind of support underneath the x-axis smooth rods to hold it up in approximately the middle of the frame. Tighten the M3x10 screws on the bottom of the x-end-motor.<br />
#Slide X axis to the bottom of the Z axis smooth rod, if you feel the bushings binding, jog the bar clamps on both sides of the Z axis untill the bushings can travel the full length of the Z rod with no resistance.<br />
# Insert an M8 nut into the bottom of the hexagonal channel of x-end-motor. Repeat for x-end-idler.<br />
# ''(optional)'' Insert a spring into the top of the hexagonal channel of each x-end part. Insert an M8 nut on top of each spring.<br />
# Thread one end of the 210mm threaded rods into each hexagonal channel from above, compressing the top nut and spring if you have them. The threaded rod should turn freely in each channel, and the nuts should stay snugly in place. Turn the rods until about half their length sticks out from the bottom of the parts.<br />
# Place a NEMA 17 motor into each of the two z-motor-holder parts, shaft down. You may ''optionally'' fasten them from underneath with M3x10 bolts and M3 washers.<br />
#: ''Note: You might not want to secure the z-motors if you have wobbling issues with you x-axis. This is especially true if your threaded rods are not straight.''<br />
# Attach the narrower end of a coupling to each of the motor shafts. Do not tighten the nuts on the coupling yet.<br />
# Turn the 210mm threaded rods so that they go upwards and enter the coupling. Screw them as far into the coupling as they will go, but do not use excessive force.<br />
# Carefully tighten the M3 nuts on both couplings.<br />
# Turn both threaded rods so that the x axis moves up. Make sure the couplings are supporting the weight. If the Z axis rods are hard to turn, or one is a lot harder to turn than the other, you will need to clean the inside of the spring track. The best way I have found to do this is put a nut on the end of a long scrap piece of threaded rod. Heat the nut up on your stove on high. then take the nut and run it up and down the inside of the spring chamber till the walls are smooth, and a little bigger than the nut that goes it. This should loosen up the hole enough that once reassembled the trouble side travels smoothly.<br />
# Place a spirit level on the x-axis smooth rods. Turn the threaded rod on one side only until the x axis is level. Your Z axis is ready.<br />
<br />
=== Installing the x carriage ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-carriage<br />
[[File:pm-x-cariage.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP pulley<br />
[[File:pm-pulley.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x belt<br />
* 2 M4 nuts<br />
* 5 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
* 4 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 1 Extruder<br />
* 1 NEMA17 stepper motor<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>NjowDqytHJQ</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>ahg42Vu4VLw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel on the side of the pulley rim.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Slide the pulley onto the motor shaft so that the rim comes onto the shaft last. Leave 1mm or so of shaft between the pulley and the motor body. Tighten the grub screw.<br />
# Insert the motor into the x-end-motor part so that the motor body is on the front of the machine and the pulley points towards the rear. The pulley teeth and the idler on the opposite side of the X axis should be aligned.<br />
# Fasten the motor using 4 M3x10 bolts and 4 M3 washers. The motor body should now be on top of the x-axis smooth rods.<br />
# Place 4 PLA bushings on the x-axis smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Place the x-carriage on top of the bushings, making sure they fit into the channels. The protruding part of the x-carriage with the four nut traps should be on the side of the pulley and idler, pointing towards the rear of the machine.<br />
# Wait for the glue to dry.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried,'' make sure the carriage can slide along the rods freely from end to end. Turn the entire frame around so that the rear of the machine faces towards you.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on each of two M3x25 bolts. Thread them through the holes of one belt-clamp. Repeat for the second belt-clamp.<br />
# Loosely attach one of the belt clamps to the carriage. Thread the two bolts through the holes in the carriage and attach nuts to them. Make sure there is enough space for the belt to slide between the clamp and the carriage. Repeat for the other clamp.<br />
# Slide one end of the belt through the left clamp, toothed side up. Pull several centimeters through, then tighten the clamp.<br />
# Run the belt over the 608 bearing and the motor pulley, then thread it through the other clamp, toothed side up. The belt should now form an elongated loop with the teeth on the inside of the loop. Pull the belt tight and tighten the second clamp.<br />
# Verify that the belt tension is right. Turning the motor pulley by hand should make the carriage move. The carriage should move freely along the entire length of the axis.<br />
# Use two M4x20 bolts and two M4 nuts to mount the extruder to the x-carriage.<br />
<br />
====Tips for assembling Wade + Arcols hotend====<br />
#DON'T MOUNT THE MOTOR AND THE BIG GEAR. Wait till its written here in tips.<br />
#Look at Wade assembly manual [http://reprap.org/wiki/Wade's_Geared_Extruder]<br />
#Prepare big wheel with hobbed bolt. Test with filament in fillament path if it matches the hobbet part of wade bolt. Prepare pulley on motor.<br />
#Assemble the long bolts for idler and the bearings. Check how bolts is lining the filament path and other stuff.<br />
#Mount the hotend to the Wade. <br />
#Mount the Wade to the x-carriage.<br />
#Mount the belt on the side where will be the motor.<br />
#Assemble the motor to Wade. Dont use washer on two bolts nearest the big gear. Preferably use low profile screws. Also dont tighten these two screw too much, you can later slide the motor without taking out the big gear.<br />
#Add the hobbed bolt with gear.<br />
#Add the idler.<br />
<br />
=== Wiring the electronics ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 Electronics setup (Pololu, Ramps, Gen3, Gen6, or anything else compatible)<br />
* 3 endstops<br />
* 3 RP endstop holders<br />
* 3 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 6 M3 washers<br />
* 3 M3 nuts<br />
* A lot of cable ties<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
Electronics assembly.<br />
<videoflash>UHBDstsSJj0</videoflash><br />
<br />
# There are various electronics configurations out there, but thay are mostly compatible. Regardless of what electronics you have, you should have at least three stepper drivers, ideally four. Those are either integrated on the board or separate modules. Identify the motor connections for X, Y, Z and the extruder stepper (E on some setups). Also identify the connections for the heated bed (if you have one), the extruder heater connection, the extruder and heated bed thermistors, and the X, Y and Z MIN endstop connections.<br />
# Screw or glue your endstops (opto or microswitch) to the long side of the three endstop holders.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, you will need to make three opto flags. These are long, thin strips of some easily formable, opaque material, for example metal sheet from drink cans. If you are using microswitch endstops, you can skip this step. Take an empty drink can and cut three 10mmx30mm pieces from from it. These will be your optoflags.<br />
# Position your endstops on the smooth rods. Facing the front of the machine, place one on the left z smooth rod below where the x axis currently is. This is your Place one on the far left of the rear x axis smooth rod. Place the third one on the right y axis smooth rod behind the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on an M3x25 bolt and thread it through each endstop holder, and put a washer and M3 nut on the other side. Do not tighten these nuts yet.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, glue an optoflag onto the left side of the x-carriage, the bottom of the x-motor-bracket (pointing down) and the print bottom plate, so that they go through the gap in the optoswitch as the axis slides.<br />
# You now need to determine the limits of each axis. With the extruder/hotend installed, slide the X carriage left until the nozzle is 10mm to the right from the left edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that the opto/switch is engaged in this position. If your optoflag is too long, trim it until it just barely triggers the endstop when the nozzle is in this position. Tighten the nut on the X endstop, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Slide the print bottom plate backwards until the nozzle is about 42mm (equivalent is 1-21/32") in front of the front edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that it engages when the print bottom plate is in this position. Tighten the Y endstop nut, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the Z axis moves downwards. Do not worry about the height yet. You will need to adjust the position of this endstop once the bed is installed and leveled. <br />
# Decide where your electronics will live. Mount these in place first, that will allow you to route cables easier.<br />
# Slide the X carriage as far away from the electronics as possible.<br />
# Route the cables from each of the endstops along the frame to the electronics board. Plug each one into the appropriate connector. For the X endstop, leave enough slack in the cable to allow the X axis to move along the Z all the way up and down the frame. Make sure none of the wires interfere with the movement of the axes. Use zipties to fix the wires to the frame. <br />
# Splice the Z motor wires together in parallel. If the motors are identical, join each wire with the wire of the same color, and then attach them to the connector that matches your electronics. Route the wires along the frame to your electronics board, and attach them to the Z-driver connector. Use cable ties to fix the wires to the frame.<br />
# Attach the Y motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame (making sure they don't interfere with the Y-axis movement) and attach them to your electronics at the Y-driver connector. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Attach the X motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame and attach them to your electronics at the X-driver connector. Leave enough slack for the X-axis to move all the way up and down the Z axis without getting caught on the wires. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Leaving enough slack so that the wires don't get stretched even when the X carriage is furthest away from the electronics, route the extruder motor, heater, and thermistor wires along the frame, to the electronics. Keep careful track of which wire is which. Color-coding is recommended. If your wires are not different colors, attach labels to the ends. Attach connectors to the wires to match your electronics and plug them into your electronics board. The stepper connection goes into the EXTRUDER/E connector. Tie the cables down to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Move the X and Y axes all the way in each direction, and check that no wires interfere with movement. Once done, slide each axis to approximately the middle of its range.<br />
# Get a piece of paper, and write "X, Y, Z, E" on it.<br />
# Plug in the power and USB connections to the electronics. ''From this point on, if ANYTHING acts strange, switch off power first, and figure it out later. This is extremely important!''<br />
# Connect to the electronics from a computer using repsnapper, reprap host, or replicatorg.<br />
# Stand in front of the machine. In the software, tell the X axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves to the RIGHT, write "OK" under X on your paper. If it moves to the LEFT, write "REV" under X. If it does not move write "NO" under it.<br />
# Tell the Y axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves FORWARD (towards you), write "OK" under Y. If it moves BACKWARD (away from you), write "REV" under Y. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Y on your paper.<br />
# Tell the Z axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves UP, write "OK" under Z. If it moves DOWN, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Tell the extruder to move forward (positive). If it moves in the direction that would push filament into , the nozzle, write "OK" under Z. If it moves in the opposite direction, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Close the software and ''switch off the power to the machine!''<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "REV", unplug its connector from the electronics, turn it by 180 degrees, and plug it in again. If the connector is polarized (can only be plugged in one way), you might need to reconnect the wires to the connector.<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "NO", make sure its connector is wired to the motor, and the connector is seated properly.<br />
# Repeat the test until all axes are labeled "OK". Now tell the X and Y axes to home. They should move until they reach their endstops, then stop.<br />
<br />
=== Attaching the print bed ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 4 M3x40 bolts<br />
* 4 ballpoint pen springs<br />
* 8 M3 nuts (optionally nyloc)<br />
* 16 M3 washers<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>dQSLWYBepVA</videoflash><br />
# If you have a heated build platform, install it on the print top plate at this point. Cover your top plate or build platform with whatever your build surface material will be (Kapton, blue tape, etc.) <br />
# Put a washer on each of the four M3x40 bolts.<br />
# Thread each bolt through one of the holes in the print top plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer, a ballpoint pen spring, and another M3 washer onto each bolt.<br />
# Thread a nut onto each bolt to fasten it to the print top plate. Do not tighten. This nut is only there to hold the springs in place.<br />
# Carefully place the print top plate on top of the print bottom plate. Make sure each bolt goes through one of the holes in the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer and nut on the end of each of the bolts.<br />
# Level the bed. To do this, put a spirit level on top of the bed and adjust the nuts of each of the M3 bolts until the spirit level shows the bed is level. Use the top nut to adjust the height and the bottom nut to fix it. If you have a heated build platform, put the spirit level on the platform. Once done, tighten all nuts.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the nozzle is just barely above the bed. <br />
# You are now ready to print. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
=== Firmware modifications ===<br />
<br />
#Because the Z axis rods are directly driven, you need to alter your firmware to reflect this. For 5/16 rod lead screws you need to change the #define z_steps_per_mm to 1133.858 in 1/8 and 2267.716 with 1/16 stepping.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel&diff=31603Prusa Mendel2011-04-12T16:48:08Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa Mendel<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of normal [[Mendel]].<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr (design), Kliment (maintenance and documentation)<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel Variations|Mendel Variations]][[Category:Mendel Variations]]<br />
|cadModel = [[file:Prusa_Mendel.EASM]]<br />
<br />
[[file:Prusa_Mendel.STEP]]<br />
<br />
[[file:Prusa_Mendel_Solidworks_2007_Assembly.zip]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Prusa Mendel does less. But what it does it does better. Its pure 3D printer.'''<br />
<br />
*If you want to do milling, its probably not as good as Sells Mendel in case of milling more then PCBs.<br />
*If you want to be cool and pay more, Makerbot is better at this.<br />
*If you want printer which will last forever, buy Shapercube.<br />
*If you want to use linear bearings, go ahead and modify it. <br />
<br />
Main goal is to get purest and simplest printer you can build. <br />
*It's much simpler to modify it.<br />
*It's much simpler to build it.<br />
*It's much simpler to print it for your friends. <br />
*It's much simpler to repair it.<br />
*Because of small complexity, it can be living thing. I update it all the time. It's unique feature but it should be standard. We are living in feature, we don't care if its bit different every time, our printer will print it in same time ;-)<br />
<br />
Prusa Mendel is Ford T of 3D printers.<br />
<br />
Also see [[SAE Prusa Mendel]] if you are building this machine using SAE (Imperial) Fasterers<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of the original [[Mendel]]. I wanted to use bushings instead of regular bearings. The current version uses three 608 bearings in total, one for the X and two for the Y axis. The 624 bearings are gone altogether.<br />
I have the entire machine up and running, with my printed PLA bushings. It's pretty smooth.<br />
<br/><br />
__TOC__<br />
<div style="clear:both"></div><br />
<videoflash>tyVM3-v84I0</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel<br />
<br />
You can follow the changes on [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/commits/master Changelog]<br />
<br />
You can sign up for github for free and fork the project to begin working on it.<br />
<br />
=== History ===<br />
* http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-pla-bushings.html<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials ==<br />
<br />
=== Printed Parts ===<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Diagram<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || coupling || RP || || [[File:Pm-coupler.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || endstop-holder || RP || ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-carriage || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-cariage.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-end-idler || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-idler.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || x-end-motor || RP || || [[File:Pm-x-motor.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || y-motor-bracket || RP || || [[File:Pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || z-motor-mount || RP || || [[File:Pm-z-motor.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || belt-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-belt-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 8 || bar-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-bar-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || rod-clamp || RP || || [[File:Pm-rod-clamp.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || pulley || RP || || [[File:Pm-pulley.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || frame-vertex with foot || RP || || [[File:Pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || frame-vertex || RP || || [[File:Pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|50px]]<br />
|-<br />
| 12 || pla-bushing || RP-PLA || check your build file, the file makes either 4 or 12 || [[File:Pm-bushings.jpg|50px]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Non-Printed Parts ("vitamins") ===<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|+Required<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
|-<br />
| 83 || M8 nut || Fastener || Buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side.<br />
|-<br />
| 93 || M8 washer || Fastener || Buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side.<br />
|-<br />
| 6 || M8×30 mudguard / fender washers || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4×20 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4 nut || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M4 washer || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 22 || M3×10 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 16 || M3×25 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || M3×40 bolt || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 70 || M3 washer || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 40 || M3 nut || Fastener || 8 optionally locknut / stop nut / nyloc<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M3 grub screw / set screw || Fastener ||<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || 608 roller skate / inline skate / skateboard bearing || Bearings ||<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || ballpoint pen springs || Spring ||<br />
|-<br />
| 6 || M8×370mm || Threaded rod || 3 per side<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || M8×294mm || Threaded rod || front / rear<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || M8×440mm || Threaded rod || top / bottom<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M8×210mm || Threaded rod || Z-leadscrew<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || M8×50mm || Threaded rod || or bolt for X idler<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×495mm || Smooth rod || X-bar (''consensus seems to be that this is too long, and 420mm might be a better length, but this still requires confirmation from a finished builder''. [As a [[User:Garyhodgson|"finished builder"]] I can confirm 420mm would be better.])<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×406mm || Smooth rod || Y-bar<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm×350mm || Smooth rod || Z-bar<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 225mm×225mm print top plate || Thick Sheet ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 140mm×225mm print bottom plate || Thick Sheet ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 840mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || 1380mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt ||<br />
|-<br />
| 5 || NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor || Stepper ||<br />
|-<br />
| 50 || small cable binder / ziptie || Misc ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] || || or any other compatible extruder<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || Electronics + endstops || || this can be [[RAMPS]], [[Pololu Electronics]], [[Generation 6 Electronics|Gen6]], [[Generation 3 Electronics|Gen3]], or anything else compatible<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"<br />
|+Optional<br />
|-<br />
! scope="col" | Quantity<br />
! scope="col" | Description<br />
! scope="col" | Type<br />
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || 30mm×10mm Optoflags || Thin Sheet || if using opto endstops<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm ID spring || Spring || if using opto endstops<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || object with precisely 290mm length || || for frame alignment<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || object with precisely 234mm length || || for frame alignment<br />
|}<br />
<br />
You can combine the latter two by having a piece of thick sheet with dimensions 290mm×234mm. Make sure to mark which side is which.<br />
<br />
When cutting the threaded rods from 1m lengths, you will need 6x 1m pieces (or 5x 1m pieces and 1x 50cm piece). Cut them as follows:<br />
Rod 1: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm (the last piece will turn up somewhat shorter than 50mm. Use it for your idler)<br />
Rod 2: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm<br />
Rod 3: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 4: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 5: 440mm, 440mm, ~120mm<br />
Rod 6: 440mm<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel uses the 4 drivers in the standard Mendel electronics package to drive 5 motors by using "two steppers wired in parallel to one driver" [http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-y-and-z-axes.html].<br />
<br />
=== Where To Purchase ===<br />
<br />
See the [[Mendel Buyers Guide]] for information on where to purchase all of the parts needed.<br />
<br />
== Printing the Parts ==<br />
[[File:Prusa.jpg|right|thumbnail|300px|A printed set of Prusa Mendel parts]]<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a Mendel ===<br />
An easier option then individually printing each part if you are printing Prusa on a RepRap Mendel is the pre-assembled build file containing the Prusa parts. With this option you only need to print the Mendel plate and the PLA bushings to get a complete Prusa Mendel:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mendelplate.stl Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/pla-bushing.stl PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
SAE versions:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mendelplate.stl SAE Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/pla-bushing.stl SAE PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]] ===<br />
There are also pre-assembled build files available to fit your [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]]'s build area (download using right click => save as)<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' <br />
* These plates are 85x95mm in size. <br />
<br />
Plates for the MakerBot (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate1.stl Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate2.stl Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate3.stl Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate4.stl Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate5.stl Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
SAE versions: (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate1.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate2.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate3.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate4.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate5.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on anything else ===<br />
Last but not least, if you have a machine that doesn't fit into any of the previous options all the .stl files necessary to print a Prusa Mendel are available on the [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel PrusaMendel Github] where you can download them and print them individually.<br />
<br />
=== Buy the printed parts ===<br />
[[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#RepRapped_Parts_Kits]]<br />
<br />
== Assembly ==<br />
<br />
For the visually oriented, have a look at this [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel photo gallery] of an ongoing Mendel Prusa build.<br />
<br />
There is also a [http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions visual guide] available, showing each of the steps below with follow-along images: [[File:PrusaMendelVisualInstructionsFrontPage.png|border|150px|alt=http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions|link=http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions|Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions Front Page]]<br />
<br />
And now also [[Prusa_en_fran%C3%A7ais_-_Prusa_in_French]] for a translated build.<br />
<br />
===Assembling the frame vertex triangles (2x)===<br />
Notes:<br />
*Heating the flat side of a bushing with a hair dryer or heat gun before snapping onto the smooth bar can keep it from snapping.<br />
*If you're using serrated washers these should only be used between nut and plastic - nut-to-fender and fender-to-bearing washers should be flat.<br />
<br />
This part takes 15 minutes per triangle to assemble, for a total of 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
There is a triangle on each side of the Prusa RepRap, you will need to make 2 of these and then connect them together (see next step) to form the Prusa frame. Each side is an equilateral triangle with a frame vertex on each corner. You can use either footed or non-footed vertices to build this (the footed ones look better, but are not critical.) The instructions assume you are using footed vertices.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required (per triangle)'''<br />
* 2 RP footed frame vertices<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP frame vertex (non-footed)<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP bar clamp<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 3 370mm M8 threaded rods<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>-PFy4KhW9gE</videoflash><br />
# Take one of the 370mm threaded rods, and slip an M8 washer onto the middle of it.<br />
# Take the RP bar clamp (the U-shaped bit with the two holes) and slide the threaded rod through the two holes until the clamp sits next to the washer.<br />
# Slide another washer onto the rod from the other side.<br />
# Thread two M8 nuts onto either side of the clamp, until they are next to the washer, but do not tighten them yet.<br />
# Thread another two nuts on each side of the rod, followed by washers. See the picture for what it should look like. <flickr>5188262096|thumb|right|m|The bar clamp on the threaded rod.</flickr><br />
# Slide the rod through the long bottom (footed) side of two vertices. Make sure the feet point in the same direction. Also make sure the bulge on the non-footed side of the vertex points outwards.<br />
# Measure the distance. The distance between the two vertices should be 290mm (along the rod, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Get it approximately right now, we will check this again later. If you have a frame jig, place it between the two vertices and adjust the nuts until you can just barely fit the jig J1 between them.<br />
# Place another washer and nut on the other side of the vertex. Tighten, but not too much. We'll need a bit of flexibility here still.<br />
# Take another 370mm M8 threaded rod and place a nut followed by a washer at each end.<br />
# Place one end of the threaded rod into the one of the two footed frame vertices. It should be in the same plane as the first threaded rod. fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have two sides of the equilateral triangle.<br />
# Take the third piece of threaded rod and put a nut and washer on each end. Place it in the other footed vertex and fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have a triangle of threaded rods with two footed vertices on two of the corners, nothing in the third corner, and a bar clamp between the two vertices.<br />
# Take the third vertex (non-footed) and slide it onto the threaded rods in the final corner of the triangle. Measure the lenghts of the three sides to make sure they are all 290mm long (along the rod from plastic part to plastic part, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Adjust the nuts to make sure this is so. Use the frame jig J1 if you have one. Once done, place a washer and nut on the top of the vertex. Tighten all the outer nuts. <flickr>5188259098|thumb|right|m|The finished frame triangle </flickr><br />
# You should now have a sturdy triangle with equal-length sides, two feet on the bottom, and a bar clamp between the feet. Adjust the nuts around the bar clamp (but do not crush the bar clamp together yet) until it's approximately in the middle of the rod. Leave the nuts there loose. See photo for what you should have at this point.<br />
# That's it, that's one of the triangles done. Repeat the entire procedure for the second triangle. It is exactly identical to the first.<br />
<br />
Now we need to connect the 2 frame triangles to form the Prusa RepRap frame.<br />
<br />
The easiest way to do this is to thread everything onto the front and rear threaded rods and attach those to the triangles first, and then thread the top rods through. That's what the instructions below assume you are doing.<br />
<br style="clear:both"/><br />
<br />
=== Assembling the front threaded rods ===<br />
This step takes about 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the front/bottom vertex of each triangle as well as the y-stage bars and y motor mount to the frame.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP y motor bracket<br />
[[File:pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 18 M8 nuts<br />
* 20 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>9ut45Pe9gkw</videoflash><br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Thread an M8 nut onto the middle of the rod. Slide an M8 washer next to it. <br />
# Thread the rod through the bottom hole of the RP y-motor-bracket. The bottom hole of the bracket is the long, straight side.<flickr>5373622677|thumb|right|m|The long, straight side of the RP Y motor bracket will be parallel to ground when you are all done.</flickr><br />
# Slide another washer onto the other side of the rod and add another M8 nut to hold it in place.<br />
# Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, the y-motor-bracket (with the pointy bit pointed towards you),1 washer, 1 nut, 2 washers, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# When you hold it with the bigger part (with the circular hole) of the motor bracket ''towards you'', it should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <span style="color:red">'''NOTE: this diagram and the text above show three washers and a nut on the upper bar immediately to the right of the motor bracket. This is inconsistent with the assembly detailed below in [[#Assembling the y axis]], where they are missing and the fender washer contacts the bracket directly. Photos have been found of completed printers that appear to support either assembly. Would be good to get clarification.'''</span> <br />
<br/>[[File:front-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# You can now attach this setup to the triangle sides. Make sure the bigger part of the motor bracket points '''OUT''' of the triangle. Thread the ends of the rods through two of the footed vertices. Put a washer and nut on the end of each threaded rod.<br />
It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:front-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the rear threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 20 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the back/bottom vertex of the 2 triangles together as well as the y-stage bars and belt pulley.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>LfjWQKbxPGI</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>Pern6akmEn4</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is again a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# It should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:rear-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# Attach the two rods to the two remaining footed vertices. Thread each end of the rod through the vertex, and add a washer and nut. It should now look like this: <br/> [[File:rear-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
Your frame should now be standing on its own feet without support, but the tops sides of the triangles will still be wobbly. We'll fix that next.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the top threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
These connect the 2 frame triangles at their tops as well as providing mounts for the z-axis motors.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled and connected frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP z motor mounts<br />
[[File:pm-z-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 12 M8 nuts<br />
* 16 M8 washers<br />
* 2 440mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>HI77eGBl4gU</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Slide one of the threaded rods through one side of one of the top vertices. Put a washer, two nuts, and another washer on the part of the rod between the top vertices. This is what it should look like when seen from above: <br/> [[File:top-step1.png|center|750px]]<br />
# Repeat for the other rod. It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:top-step2.png|center|750px]]<br />
# Slide the rods through the opposite side vertex. Thread the nuts up to the vertices on each side.<br />
# To each of the four ends of the threaded rod, add a washer, a nut and another washer. Your setup should now look like this: <br/>[[File:top-step3.png|center|750px]]<br />
# Take one of the RP z motor mounts and attach it to the ends of the threaded rod. The side with the two holes and the indentation should point towards the ''outside''. Add a washer and nut to the end of each rod.<br />
# Repeat this on the other side. The top of the machine should now look like this: <br/> [[File:top.png|center|750px]]<br />
<br />
=== Tightening the frame ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Now that the frame is fully assembled we can adjust and tighten each of its threaded rods. You will need your frame jigs if you have them, or a reasonably precise length measurement tool.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 M8 nuts<br />
* 4 M8 washers<br />
* 1 440mm threaded rod<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. This is your frame jig J2.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>jwvujYvElhM</videoflash><br />
# Verify that the triangle vertices have distance J1 (290mm, equivalent is 11-13/32") from plastic to plastic along each of the three sides. Once you are sure of this, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firmly attached and unable to move, but do not crush the plastic parts.<br />
# Adjust each of the bottom rods until it has distance J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") between the inside ends of the vertices. Use frame jig J2 to check this if you have it. Once you are sure this is true, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firm, but do not crush the plastic.<br />
# Adjust the top of the frame so that the distance between the inside ends of the vertices is precisely J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") and the length of rod outside the vertex on one side is the same as the length outside the vertex on the other side. Double-check the distances before tightening the nut on the outside of the vertex.<br />
# The frame should now be fairly stable. Using a plumb line or similar (for example a nut hanging on a length of yarn), adjust the bar clamps on the bottom side of each triangle until they are close to center of the top vertices. Do not tighten the nuts either side of the bar clamps yet. These need to space the 440 mm rod exactly 1 bar clamp from the center line of the bot. This is so the polished z-rods are exactly centered with the bot and run perfectly vertical.<br />
# Insert the 440mm threaded rod through the two bar clamps on the bottom of the frame. make sure the new rod is on ''top'' of the triangle bottom rod. Adjust it so that the same length sticks out on each side.<br />
# On each side, place a nut, washer, bar clamp (threaded through the holes), washer, and another nut. The hole to which should go the z-running smooth rod should be virtually in center of bottom triangle rods. The setup should look like this when seen from below:<br />
<br/> [[File:bottom-rod.png|center|750px]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the y axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 225x140mm print bottom plate<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 2 406mm smooth rods<br />
* 1 y timing belt<br />
* 1 NEMA 17 stepper motor<br />
* 1 pulley<br />
* 3 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 4 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>A46NKyBos_8</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>7ZBNewV_CWw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Mark each of the four corners of the print bottom plate 8mm (equivalent is ~5/16") from each side with the marker.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole in each of the four corners.<br />
# Clamp the print bottom plate and the print top plate together, so that the bottom plate is equally far from each edge of the top plate. Drill 3mm holes into the top plate through the corner holes in the bottom plate so that they match on both plates.<br />
# Slide the two 406mm smooth rods through the bar clamps on the front and rear threaded rods. They should fit snugly and be approximately parallel. <br />
# Place the narrow side of the "print bottom" plate between the rods. This ensures they are exactly 140mm (equivalent is 5-33/64") apart from each other. Adjust the nuts on the front side bar clamps until the print bottom plate just barely fits between the rods. Try to get them at an approximately equal distance from the middle of the rod. <br />
# Tighten the front nuts just enough that they do not move on their own, but no further.<br />
# Measure the distance from the left front vertex to the left smooth rod. Adjust the distance from the left rear vertex to the left smooth rod to match it. This ensures the left rod is parallel to the frame. Tighten the nuts on the left clamp just enough that they do not move around.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate next to the left smooth rod on the rear side. Adjust the right rear bar clamp's nuts until the narrow side of the bottom plate barely fits between the rods.<br />
# Recheck the distances from the left vertex to the left rod are the same at the front and rear and that the short side of the print bottom plate fits snugly between the smooth rods both at the front and at the rear. This should ensure that the rods are parallel to each other and to the frame. Use the diagram below to see what it should look like from above. <br/> [[File:y-rods.png|center]]<br />
# Tighten the nuts on all of the four bar clamps now.<br />
# Snap 2 PLA bushings onto each of the two smooth rods. Place them about 120mm apart on each rod. Make sure they slide freely on the rods. Put a dab of glue on the top side of the bushings (the side opposite the open side). Carefully place the print bottom plate on top of the bushings, so that it's equally far apart from each of the two triangles (see diagram below). Wait for the glue to dry. <br/> [[File:y-plate.png|center]]<br />
# While the glue is drying, adjust the bearing on the rear threaded rod until it is exactly across from the front threaded rod. Tighten the nuts on the y motor bracket and the bearings at this point. All nuts on the front and rear rods should now be tight.<br />
# Also while the glue is drying, ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel in the pulley that goes to the center hole.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Place the motor with the pulley on it next to the mounting holes in the y motor bracket. Position the motor the left, so that the pulley ends up on the side of the bearing.<br />
# Adjust the pulley position on the shaft so that when the motor is flush with the bracket, the teeth on the pulley are approximately at the position of the bearing.<br />
# Fasten the motor with 3 M3x10 bolts. Put a washer between each bolt and the y motor bracket.<br />
# Tighten the grub screw so that the pulley cannot move along the shaft.<br />
# Position the y belt on top of the print bottom plate and through both of the bearings. Pull lightly on both ends so that it is straight. If the belt is not straight, adjust the position of the rear bearing until it is. Use a marker to mark out the position of the belt on the print bottom plate. Also mark which side of the plate is on the left.<br />
# ''After the glue has dried,'' carefully pop the print bottom plate with the PLA bushings off the rails. Place the two belt clamps perpendicular to the marked position of the belt, several centimeters apart. Make sure the belt position is between the two holes on each clamp. Use a marker to mark where the holes of the belt clamps would be on the plate.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole through each of the four marked belt clamp holes.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate back on the smooth rods, paying attention to the marking to make sure the correct side is on the left.<br />
# Place one end of the belt, toothed side down, where the holes for the front belt clamp are. Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in one of the belt clamps. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt. Leave several centimeters of the belt behind the clamp.<br />
# Put two M3 nuts underneath the plate and thread them onto the bolts. Tighten both nuts so that the end of the belt is firmly attached to the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Pass the belt over the front bearing, around the motor pulley, and then up underneath the plate to the other bearing. Pull it tight, then lay it on top of the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in the second belt clamp. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt. You can always tighten the belt later with 3 zip-ties.[[Tips]]<br />
# Attach an M3 nut to each of the two bolts, and pull the belt tight before tightening the two nuts.<br />
# Turn the motor by hand. It should turn with little effort, and each slight rotation should be matched by a slight movement of the plate. Make sure it slides smoothly along the entire length of the rods. Pushing the plate should immediately make the motor turn. Make sure the belt is not too loose (plate and motor should not be able to move independently) or too tight (taking a lot of effort to move the plate). Once you are confident your belt tension is correct, tighten the clamps very firmly. You may now trim the belt, but leave several centimeters behind each clamp for future adjustment.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the x axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-end-motor<br />
[[File:pm-x-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP x-end-idler<br />
[[File:pm-x-idler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 495mm smooth rods<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 50mm M8 threaded rod<br />
* 3 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8 nuts<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>K9bXwOZOXps</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Drill out the center hole in the hexagonal section of the x-end-idler and x-end-motor parts to 8mm.<br />
# Take the x-end-idler. Check the size of the hole on the flat, thin side surface. If it is 4mm in diameter, enlarge it using a file until it's 8mm in diameter.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps in the long channels on the bottom of the x-end-idler. You may find pulling them into the nut trap using an M3 bolt makes it easier. Thread M3x10 bolts through them, but just far enough that they do not fall out.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps of the x-end-motor part as well. Thread M3x10 bolts through those as above.<br />
# Place the x-end-motor and x-end-idler 50cm apart, so that the hexagonal parts are facing each other.<br />
# Slide the two 495mm smooth rods into the x-end idler. Make sure they go past the nut traps.<br />
# Slide the other ends of the rods into x-end-motor. Make sure they go past the nut traps. The hexagonal sections of the motor and idler should still be facing each other.<br />
# Tighten the M3 bolts on the x-end-idler. The x-end-motor should be able to move along the rods with minor effort. Do ''not'' tighten the x-end-motor bolts yet.<br />
# Thread an M8 nut onto one end of the 50mm threaded rod. (Alternatively, you can use an M8x50 bolt)<br />
# Put the following parts in this order onto the free end of the threaded rod (behind the nut): 1 fender washer, 1 M8 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 M8 washer, 1 fender washer.<br />
# Thread the free end of the threaded rod into the side of the x-end-idler. The bearing should be on the outside. Put an M8 washer and an M8 nut on the inside and tighten both nuts.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the z axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP shaft couplers<br />
[[File:pm-coupler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP rod-clamp<br />
[[File:pm-rod-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x axis assembly (from the previous step)<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 20 M3 washers<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 8 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors<br />
* 2 210mm threaded rods <br />
* 2 330mm smooth rods<br />
* 4 M8 nuts (2 optional)<br />
* 2 8.5mm ID springs (optional)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>v_W7WPdQ3Qo</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>bCK1W3SE1Xs</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Use a spirit level to make sure the two rods at the top of the frame are horizontal. If they are not, stack bits of paper under the vertices at the bottom until they are.<br />
# Drop a plumb line (or a nut tied to a length of yarn) directly down from the indentation on the side of the left z-motor-holder. Adjust the two bar clamps at the bottom of the frame on the left side until the nut falls into the U of the outer clamp. Repeat on the other side.<br />
# Put M3 nuts into the nut traps on both z-motor-holder ends.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on 2 M3x25 bolts and thread them into the flat (non-indented) end of a rod-clamp. Attach the rod-clamp to one of the z-motor-holders. Do not tighten.<br />
#: ''Note: The M3x25 bolts are too long for the recent Prusa z-motor-holder and rod-clamp, and using round headed bolts as shown above will result in the shaft of the bolt interfering with the seating of the z-motor. One could either use shorter bolts (approx. M3x20), or cut the M3x25's to size. An alternative is to use hexagonal bolts, and insert them in reverse with the shaft pointing outwards.''<br />
# Repeat for the other z-motor-holder and rod-clamp.<br />
# Insert a 330mm smooth rod into the space between each z-motor-holder and rod-clamp. Slide it in from the top. On the bottom, insert it into the U of the bottom bar clamp.<br />
# Using the plumb line, check that the smooth rods are vertical. If they are not, adjust the bottom bar clamp positions until they are. This is critical, so take as much time as you need.<br />
# Tighten the nuts on the bar clamps and the bolts on the rod clamps. Check again with the plumb line.<br />
# Place two PLA bushings on each of the smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Position the x-axis assembly inside the frame so that the bushing channels on the x-axis-motor and x-axis-idler align with the bushings. The x-end-idler should be on the right, with the bearing on the rear side of the machine.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Push the rectangular channels of x-end-idler and x-end-motor against the flat of the bushings. Position the x-end-idler against the bushings on the right side of the machine and then slide the x-end-motor along the x-axis smooth rods until it makes contact with the bushings on the left side of the machine. Let the glue dry.<br />
# While the glue is drying, assemble the couplings. Insert an M3x25 bolt, with an M3 washer, through each of the two side holes on each coupling. Put an M3 washer and M3 nut on the other end. Do not tighten yet.<br />
#: ''Note: The M3x25 bolts are a little too long for the couplings, and restrict the vertical movement of the x-chassis, or interfere with the z-axis smooth bars. Either use smaller bolts (M3x20), or cut the M3x25's to size.''<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried'', slide the X axis to the top of the Z axis smooth rod, and place some kind of support underneath the x-axis smooth rods to hold it up in approximately the middle of the frame. Tighten the M3x10 screws on the bottom of the x-end-motor.<br />
#Slide X axis to the bottom of the Z axis smooth rod, if you feel the bushings binding, jog the bar clamps on both sides of the Z axis untill the bushings can travel the full length of the Z rod with no resistance.<br />
# Insert an M8 nut into the bottom of the hexagonal channel of x-end-motor. Repeat for x-end-idler.<br />
# ''(optional)'' Insert a spring into the top of the hexagonal channel of each x-end part. Insert an M8 nut on top of each spring.<br />
# Thread one end of the 210mm threaded rods into each hexagonal channel from above, compressing the top nut and spring if you have them. The threaded rod should turn freely in each channel, and the nuts should stay snugly in place. Turn the rods until about half their length sticks out from the bottom of the parts.<br />
# Place a NEMA 17 motor into each of the two z-motor-holder parts, shaft down. You may ''optionally'' fasten them from underneath with M3x10 bolts and M3 washers.<br />
#: ''Note: You might not want to secure the z-motors if you have wobbling issues with you x-axis. This is especially true if your threaded rods are not straight.''<br />
# Attach the narrower end of a coupling to each of the motor shafts. Do not tighten the nuts on the coupling yet.<br />
# Turn the 210mm threaded rods so that they go upwards and enter the coupling. Screw them as far into the coupling as they will go, but do not use excessive force.<br />
# Carefully tighten the M3 nuts on both couplings.<br />
# Turn both threaded rods so that the x axis moves up. Make sure the couplings are supporting the weight. If the Z axis rods are hard to turn, or one is a lot harder to turn than the other, you will need to clean the inside of the spring track. The best way I have found to do this is put a nut on the end of a long scrap piece of threaded rod. Heat the nut up on your stove on high. then take the nut and run it up and down the inside of the spring chamber till the walls are smooth, and a little bigger than the nut that goes it. This should loosen up the hole enough that once reassembled the trouble side travels smoothly.<br />
# Place a spirit level on the x-axis smooth rods. Turn the threaded rod on one side only until the x axis is level. Your Z axis is ready.<br />
<br />
=== Installing the x carriage ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-carriage<br />
[[File:pm-x-cariage.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP pulley<br />
[[File:pm-pulley.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x belt<br />
* 2 M4 nuts<br />
* 5 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
* 4 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 1 Extruder<br />
* 1 NEMA17 stepper motor<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>NjowDqytHJQ</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>ahg42Vu4VLw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel on the side of the pulley rim.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Slide the pulley onto the motor shaft so that the rim comes onto the shaft last. Leave 1mm or so of shaft between the pulley and the motor body. Tighten the grub screw.<br />
# Insert the motor into the x-end-motor part so that the motor body is on the front of the machine and the pulley points towards the rear. The pulley teeth and the idler on the opposite side of the X axis should be aligned.<br />
# Fasten the motor using 4 M3x10 bolts and 4 M3 washers. The motor body should now be on top of the x-axis smooth rods.<br />
# Place 4 PLA bushings on the x-axis smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Place the x-carriage on top of the bushings, making sure they fit into the channels. The protruding part of the x-carriage with the four nut traps should be on the side of the pulley and idler, pointing towards the rear of the machine.<br />
# Wait for the glue to dry.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried,'' make sure the carriage can slide along the rods freely from end to end. Turn the entire frame around so that the rear of the machine faces towards you.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on each of two M3x25 bolts. Thread them through the holes of one belt-clamp. Repeat for the second belt-clamp.<br />
# Loosely attach one of the belt clamps to the carriage. Thread the two bolts through the holes in the carriage and attach nuts to them. Make sure there is enough space for the belt to slide between the clamp and the carriage. Repeat for the other clamp.<br />
# Slide one end of the belt through the left clamp, toothed side up. Pull several centimeters through, then tighten the clamp.<br />
# Run the belt over the 608 bearing and the motor pulley, then thread it through the other clamp, toothed side up. The belt should now form an elongated loop with the teeth on the inside of the loop. Pull the belt tight and tighten the second clamp.<br />
# Verify that the belt tension is right. Turning the motor pulley by hand should make the carriage move. The carriage should move freely along the entire length of the axis.<br />
# Use two M4x20 bolts and two M4 nuts to mount the extruder to the x-carriage.<br />
<br />
====Tips for assembling Wade + Arcols hotend====<br />
#DON'T MOUNT THE MOTOR AND THE BIG GEAR. Wait till its written here in tips.<br />
#Look at Wade assembly manual [http://reprap.org/wiki/Wade's_Geared_Extruder]<br />
#Prepare big wheel with hobbed bolt. Test with filament in fillament path if it matches the hobbet part of wade bolt. Prepare pulley on motor.<br />
#Assemble the long bolts for idler and the bearings. Check how bolts is lining the filament path and other stuff.<br />
#Mount the hotend to the Wade. <br />
#Mount the Wade to the x-carriage.<br />
#Mount the belt on the side where will be the motor.<br />
#Assemble the motor to Wade. Dont use washer on two bolts nearest the big gear. Preferably use low profile screws. Also dont tighten these two screw too much, you can later slide the motor without taking out the big gear.<br />
#Add the hobbed bolt with gear.<br />
#Add the idler.<br />
<br />
=== Wiring the electronics ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 Electronics setup (Pololu, Ramps, Gen3, Gen6, or anything else compatible)<br />
* 3 endstops<br />
* 3 RP endstop holders<br />
* 3 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 6 M3 washers<br />
* 3 M3 nuts<br />
* A lot of cable ties<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
Electronics assembly.<br />
<videoflash>UHBDstsSJj0</videoflash><br />
<br />
# There are various electronics configurations out there, but thay are mostly compatible. Regardless of what electronics you have, you should have at least three stepper drivers, ideally four. Those are either integrated on the board or separate modules. Identify the motor connections for X, Y, Z and the extruder stepper (E on some setups). Also identify the connections for the heated bed (if you have one), the extruder heater connection, the extruder and heated bed thermistors, and the X, Y and Z MIN endstop connections.<br />
# Screw or glue your endstops (opto or microswitch) to the long side of the three endstop holders.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, you will need to make three opto flags. These are long, thin strips of some easily formable, opaque material, for example metal sheet from drink cans. If you are using microswitch endstops, you can skip this step. Take an empty drink can and cut three 10mmx30mm pieces from from it. These will be your optoflags.<br />
# Position your endstops on the smooth rods. Facing the front of the machine, place one on the left z smooth rod below where the x axis currently is. This is your Place one on the far left of the rear x axis smooth rod. Place the third one on the right y axis smooth rod behind the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on an M3x25 bolt and thread it through each endstop holder, and put a washer and M3 nut on the other side. Do not tighten these nuts yet.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, glue an optoflag onto the left side of the x-carriage, the bottom of the x-motor-bracket (pointing down) and the print bottom plate, so that they go through the gap in the optoswitch as the axis slides.<br />
# You now need to determine the limits of each axis. With the extruder/hotend installed, slide the X carriage left until the nozzle is 10mm to the right from the left edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that the opto/switch is engaged in this position. If your optoflag is too long, trim it until it just barely triggers the endstop when the nozzle is in this position. Tighten the nut on the X endstop, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Slide the print bottom plate backwards until the nozzle is about 42mm (equivalent is 1-21/32") in front of the front edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that it engages when the print bottom plate is in this position. Tighten the Y endstop nut, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the Z axis moves downwards. Do not worry about the height yet. You will need to adjust the position of this endstop once the bed is installed and leveled. <br />
# Decide where your electronics will live. Mount these in place first, that will allow you to route cables easier.<br />
# Slide the X carriage as far away from the electronics as possible.<br />
# Route the cables from each of the endstops along the frame to the electronics board. Plug each one into the appropriate connector. For the X endstop, leave enough slack in the cable to allow the X axis to move along the Z all the way up and down the frame. Make sure none of the wires interfere with the movement of the axes. Use zipties to fix the wires to the frame. <br />
# Splice the Z motor wires together in parallel. If the motors are identical, join each wire with the wire of the same color, and then attach them to the connector that matches your electronics. Route the wires along the frame to your electronics board, and attach them to the Z-driver connector. Use cable ties to fix the wires to the frame.<br />
# Attach the Y motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame (making sure they don't interfere with the Y-axis movement) and attach them to your electronics at the Y-driver connector. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Attach the X motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame and attach them to your electronics at the X-driver connector. Leave enough slack for the X-axis to move all the way up and down the Z axis without getting caught on the wires. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Leaving enough slack so that the wires don't get stretched even when the X carriage is furthest away from the electronics, route the extruder motor, heater, and thermistor wires along the frame, to the electronics. Keep careful track of which wire is which. Color-coding is recommended. If your wires are not different colors, attach labels to the ends. Attach connectors to the wires to match your electronics and plug them into your electronics board. The stepper connection goes into the EXTRUDER/E connector. Tie the cables down to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Move the X and Y axes all the way in each direction, and check that no wires interfere with movement. Once done, slide each axis to approximately the middle of its range.<br />
# Get a piece of paper, and write "X, Y, Z, E" on it.<br />
# Plug in the power and USB connections to the electronics. ''From this point on, if ANYTHING acts strange, switch off power first, and figure it out later. This is extremely important!''<br />
# Connect to the electronics from a computer using repsnapper, reprap host, or replicatorg.<br />
# Stand in front of the machine. In the software, tell the X axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves to the RIGHT, write "OK" under X on your paper. If it moves to the LEFT, write "REV" under X. If it does not move write "NO" under it.<br />
# Tell the Y axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves FORWARD (towards you), write "OK" under Y. If it moves BACKWARD (away from you), write "REV" under Y. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Y on your paper.<br />
# Tell the Z axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves UP, write "OK" under Z. If it moves DOWN, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Tell the extruder to move forward (positive). If it moves in the direction that would push filament into , the nozzle, write "OK" under Z. If it moves in the opposite direction, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Close the software and ''switch off the power to the machine!''<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "REV", unplug its connector from the electronics, turn it by 180 degrees, and plug it in again. If the connector is polarized (can only be plugged in one way), you might need to reconnect the wires to the connector.<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "NO", make sure its connector is wired to the motor, and the connector is seated properly.<br />
# Repeat the test until all axes are labeled "OK". Now tell the X and Y axes to home. They should move until they reach their endstops, then stop.<br />
<br />
=== Attaching the print bed ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 4 M3x40 bolts<br />
* 4 ballpoint pen springs<br />
* 8 M3 nuts (optionally nyloc)<br />
* 16 M3 washers<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>dQSLWYBepVA</videoflash><br />
# If you have a heated build platform, install it on the print top plate at this point. Cover your top plate or build platform with whatever your build surface material will be (Kapton, blue tape, etc.) <br />
# Put a washer on each of the four M3x40 bolts.<br />
# Thread each bolt through one of the holes in the print top plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer, a ballpoint pen spring, and another M3 washer onto each bolt.<br />
# Thread a nut onto each bolt to fasten it to the print top plate. Do not tighten. This nut is only there to hold the springs in place.<br />
# Carefully place the print top plate on top of the print bottom plate. Make sure each bolt goes through one of the holes in the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer and nut on the end of each of the bolts.<br />
# Level the bed. To do this, put a spirit level on top of the bed and adjust the nuts of each of the M3 bolts until the spirit level shows the bed is level. Use the top nut to adjust the height and the bottom nut to fix it. If you have a heated build platform, put the spirit level on the platform. Once done, tighten all nuts.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the nozzle is just barely above the bed. <br />
# You are now ready to print. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
=== Firmware modifications ===<br />
<br />
#Because the Z axis rods are directly driven, you need to alter your firmware to reflect this. For 5/16 rod lead screws you need to change the #define z_steps_per_mm to 1133.858 in 1/8 and 2267.716 with 1/16 stepping.<br />
<br />
== Media ==<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyVM3-v84I0 Two printers simultaneously] - Prusa and shaper cube working side by side.<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh3S9aOMRhU Prusa homing using enstops]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8c5fB9Ozek Prusa development overview]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MvUD-tuOX0 Prusa Y axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-pDYDnHYaQ Prusa Z axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNRapg2gaPg Early preview of the Prusa Mendel redesign]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/56020395@N06/sets/72157625420636778/show/ Fumon's Prusa build session 1] - D1plo1d building Fumon's Prusa Mendel at Hacklab.to. Should give a hint as to how the Prusa Mendel parts go together.<br />
<br />
== Prusa Improvements/Hacks ==<br />
* Rob's [[Auto-centering shaft coupler]] - designed to reduce shaft/motor vibrations (print 2/replaces 2x coupler). May require widening the openings on the z motor mounts to allow the rotation of the zip tie. Use a zip tie gun to get maximum compression on the coupling.<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[PLA bushings]]<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
* [http://prusadjs.cz/ Prusa's Blog]<br />
* [http://feeds.feedburner.com/Prusabuilders Prusa Builder Blog Feed]<br />
* [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel assembly photo gallery]<br />
* [http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/ Prusa Mendel Visual Instructions] - A nicely formatted version of the assembly process in PDF.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel&diff=29146Prusa Mendel2011-02-27T14:53:05Z<p>Prusajr: /* Tips for assembling Wade + Arcols hotend */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa Mendel<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of normal [[Mendel]].<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr (design), Kliment (maintenance and documentation)<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel Variations|Mendel Variations]][[Category:Mendel Variations]],<br />
}}<br />
<br />
Also see [[SAE Prusa Mendel]] if you are building this machine using SAE (Imperial) Fasterers<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of the original [[Mendel]]. I wanted to use bushings instead of regular bearings. The current version uses three 608 bearings in total, one for the X and two for the Y axis. The 624 bearings are gone altogether.<br />
I have the entire machine up and running, with my printed PLA bushings. It's pretty smooth.<br />
<br/><br />
__TOC__<br />
<div style="clear:both"></div><br />
<videoflash>tyVM3-v84I0</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel<br />
<br />
You can follow the changes on [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/commits/master Changelog]<br />
<br />
You can sign up for github for free and fork the project to begin working on it.<br />
<br />
=== History ===<br />
* http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-pla-bushings.html<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials ==<br />
<br />
=== Printed Parts ===<br />
2x coupling RP<br />
3x endstop-holder RP<br />
1x x-carriage RP<br />
1x x-end-idler RP<br />
1x x-end-motor RP<br />
1x y-motor-bracket RP<br />
2x z-motor-mount RP<br />
4x belt-clamp RP<br />
8x bar-clamp RP<br />
2x rod-clamp RP<br />
2x pulley RP<br />
AND EITHER<br />
6x frame-vertex RP<br />
OR<br />
4x frame-vertex with foot RP<br />
2x frame-vertex RP<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Printed Bushings ====<br />
12x pla-bushing RP-PLA (check your build file, the file makes either 4 or 12.)<br />
<br />
=== Non-Printed Parts ("vitamins") ===<br />
(necessary)<br />
83x M8 nut Fastener (buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side. These are useful)<br />
93x M8 washer Fastener (again, buy a 100-pack.)<br />
2x M4x20 bolt Fastener<br />
2x M4 nut Fastener<br />
2x M4 washer Fastener<br />
22x M3x10 bolt Fastener<br />
16x M3x25 bolt Fastener<br />
4x M3x40 bolt Fastener<br />
70x M3 washer Fastener<br />
40x M3 nut (8 optionally nyloc) Fastener<br />
2x M3 grub screw (or M3x10 bolt) Fastener<br />
6x M8x30 Mudguard/fender washers Fastener<br />
3x 608 Bearing Bearings<br />
4x Ballpoint pen springs Spring<br />
6x M8x370mm side Threaded rod<br />
4x M8x294mm front/rear Threaded rod <br />
3x M8x440mm top/bottom Threaded rod<br />
2x M8x210mm Z-leadscrew Threaded rod<br />
1x M8x50mm threaded rod or bolt for X idler Threaded rod<br />
2x 8mmx495mm X-bar Smooth rod --Seems too long on my build, maybe 425 or 430? [[http://reprap.org/wiki/User:Bryanandaimee -Bryan]]<br />
2x 8mmx406mm Y-bar Smooth rod<br />
2x 8mmx350mm Z-bar Smooth rod<br />
1x 225mmx225mm print top plate Thick Sheet<br />
1x 140mmx225mm print bottom plate. Thick Sheet<br />
1x 840mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
1x 1380mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
5x Nema 17 bipolar NEMA Stepper<br />
50x Small cable binder/ziptie Misc.<br />
1x [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] (or any other compatible extruder)<br />
1x Electronics + endstops. This can be [[RAMPS]],[[Pololu Electronics]],[[Generation_6_Electronics|Gen6]],[[Generation_3_Electronics|Gen3]],or anything else compatible<br />
(optional)<br />
3x 30mmx10mm Optoflags (if using opto endstops) Thin, stiff, opaque sheet<br />
2x 8mm ID spring Spring<br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. <br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. <br />
(You can combine the latter two by having a piece of thick sheet with dimensions 290x234. Make sure to mark which side is which.)<br />
<br />
When cutting the threaded rods from 1m lengths, you will need 6x 1m pieces (or 5x 1m pieces and 1x 50cm piece). Cut them as follows:<br />
Rod 1: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm (the last piece will turn up somewhat shorter than 50mm. Use it for your idler)<br />
Rod 2: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm<br />
Rod 3: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 4: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 5: 440mm, 440mm, ~120mm<br />
Rod 6: 440mm<br />
<br />
(The Prusa Mendel uses the 4 drivers in the standard Mendel electronics package to drive 5 motors by using "two steppers wired in parallel to one driver"[http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-y-and-z-axes.html]).<br />
<br />
=== Buy the Non-Printed parts (vitamins) ===<br />
<br />
Hardware sets are available in [[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#Electrical_and_mechanical_kits_and_parts]]<br />
<br />
== Printing the Parts ==<br />
[[File:Prusa.jpg|right|thumbnail|300px|A printed set of Prusa Mendel parts]]<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a Mendel ===<br />
An easier option then individually printing each part if you are printing Prusa on a RepRap Mendel is the pre-assembled build file containing the Prusa parts. With this option you only need to print the Mendel plate and the PLA bushings to get a complete Prusa Mendel:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mendelplate.stl Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/pla-bushing.stl PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
SAE versions:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mendelplate.stl SAE Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/pla-bushing.stl SAE PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]] ===<br />
There are also pre-assembled build files available to fit your [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]]'s build area (download using right click => save as)<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' <br />
* These plates are 85x95mm in size. <br />
<br />
Plates for the MakerBot (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate1.stl Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate2.stl Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate3.stl Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate4.stl Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate5.stl Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
SAE versions: (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate1.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate2.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate3.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate4.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate5.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on anything else ===<br />
Last but not least, if you have a machine that doesn't fit into any of the previous options all the .stl files necessary to print a Prusa Mendel are available on the [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel PrusaMendel Github] where you can download them and print them individually.<br />
<br />
=== Buy the printed parts ===<br />
[[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#RepRapped_Parts_Kits]]<br />
<br />
== Assembly ==<br />
<br />
For the visually oriented, have a look at this [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel photo gallery] of an ongoing Mendel Prusa build.<br />
<br />
===Assembling the frame vertex triangles (2x)===<br />
Notes:<br />
*Heating the flat side of a bushing with a hair dryer or heat gun before snapping onto the smooth bar can keep it from snapping.<br />
<br />
This part takes 15 minutes per triangle to assemble, for a total of 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
There is a triangle on each side of the Prusa RepRap, you will need to make 2 of these and then connect them together (see next step) to form the Prusa frame. Each side is an equilateral triangle with a frame vertex on each corner. You can use either footed or non-footed vertices to build this (the footed ones look better, but are not critical.) The instructions assume you are using footed vertices.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required (per triangle)'''<br />
* 2 RP footed frame vertices<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP frame vertex (non-footed)<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP bar clamp<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 3 370mm M8 threaded rods<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>-PFy4KhW9gE</videoflash><br />
# Take one of the 370mm threaded rods, and slip an M8 washer onto the middle of it.<br />
# Take the RP bar clamp (the U-shaped bit with the two holes) and slide the threaded rod through the two holes until the clamp sits next to the washer.<br />
# Slide another washer onto the rod from the other side.<br />
# Thread two M8 nuts onto either side of the clamp, until they are next to the washer, but do not tighten them yet.<br />
# Thread another two nuts on each side of the rod, followed by washers. See the picture for what it should look like. <flickr>5188262096|thumb|right|m|The bar clamp on the threaded rod.</flickr><br />
# Slide the rod through the long bottom (footed) side of two vertices. Make sure the feet point in the same direction. Also make sure the bulge on the non-footed side of the vertex points outwards.<br />
# Measure the distance. The distance between the two vertices should be 290mm (along the rod, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Get it approximately right now, we will check this again later. If you have a frame jig, place it between the two vertices and adjust the nuts until you can just barely fit the jig J1 between them.<br />
# Place another washer and nut on the other side of the vertex. Tighten, but not too much. We'll need a bit of flexibility here still.<br />
# Take another 370mm M8 threaded rod and place a nut followed by a washer at each end.<br />
# Place one end of the threaded rod into the one of the two footed frame vertices. It should be in the same plane as the first threaded rod. fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have two sides of the equilateral triangle.<br />
# Take the third piece of threaded rod and put a nut and washer on each end. Place it in the other footed vertex and fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have a triangle of threaded rods with two footed vertices on two of the corners, nothing in the third corner, and a bar clamp between the two vertices.<br />
# Take the third vertex (non-footed) and slide it onto the threaded rods in the final corner of the triangle. Measure the lenghts of the three sides to make sure they are all 290mm long (along the rod from plastic part to plastic part, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Adjust the nuts to make sure this is so. Use the frame jig J1 if you have one. Once done, place a washer and nut on the top of the vertex. Tighten all the outer nuts. <br />
<flickr>5188259098|thumb|right|m|The finished frame triangle </flickr><br />
# You should now have a sturdy triangle with equal-length sides, two feet on the bottom, and a bar clamp between the feet. Adjust the nuts around the bar clamp (but do not crush the bar clamp together yet) until it's approximately in the middle of the rod. Leave the nuts there loose. See photo for what you should have at this point.<br />
# That's it, that's one of the triangles done. Repeat the entire procedure for the second triangle. It is exactly identical to the first.<br />
<br />
Now we need to connect the 2 frame triangles to form the Prusa RepRap frame.<br />
<br />
The easiest way to do this is to thread everything onto the front and rear threaded rods and attach those to the triangles first, and then thread the top rods through. That's what the instructions below assume you are doing.<br />
<br style="clear:both"/><br />
<br />
=== Assembling the front threaded rods ===<br />
This step takes about 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the front/bottom vertex of each triangle as well as the y-stage bars and y motor mount to the frame.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP y motor bracket<br />
[[File:pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 18 M8 nuts<br />
* 20 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>9ut45Pe9gkw</videoflash><br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Thread an M8 nut onto the middle of the rod. Slide an M8 washer next to it. <br />
# Thread the rod through the bottom hole of the RP y-motor-bracket. The bottom hole of the bracket is the long, straight side.<flickr>5373622677|thumb|right|m|The long, straight side of the RP Y motor bracket will be parallel to ground when you are all done.</flickr><br />
# Slide another washer onto the other side of the rod and add another M8 nut to hold it in place.<br />
# Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, the y-motor-bracket (with the pointy bit pointed towards you),1 washer, 1 nut, 2 washers, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# When you hold it with the bigger part (with the circular hole) of the motor bracket ''towards you'', it should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:front-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# You can now attach this setup to the triangle sides. Make sure the bigger part of the motor bracket points '''OUT''' of the triangle. Thread the ends of the rods through two of the footed vertices. Put a washer and nut on the end of each threaded rod.<br />
It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:front-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the rear threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 20 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the back/bottom vertex of the 2 triangles together as well as the y-stage bars and belt pulley.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>LfjWQKbxPGI</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>Pern6akmEn4</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is again a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# It should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:rear-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# Attach the two rods to the two remaining footed vertices. Thread each end of the rod through the vertex, and add a washer and nut. It should now look like this: <br/> [[File:rear-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
Your frame should now be standing on its own feet without support, but the tops sides of the triangles will still be wobbly. We'll fix that next.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the top threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
These connect the 2 frame triangles at their tops as well as providing mounts for the z-axis motors.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled and connected frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP z motor mounts<br />
[[File:pm-z-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 12 M8 nuts<br />
* 16 M8 washers<br />
* 2 440mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>HI77eGBl4gU</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Slide one of the threaded rods through one side of one of the top vertices. Put a washer, two nuts, and another washer on the part of the rod between the top vertices. This is what it should look like when seen from above: <br/> [[File:top-step1.png|center]]<br />
# Repeat for the other rod. It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:top-step2.png|center]]<br />
# Slide the rods through the opposite side vertex. Thread the nuts up to the vertices on each side.<br />
# To each of the four ends of the threaded rod, add a washer, a nut and another washer. Your setup should now look like this: <br/>[[File:top-step3.png|center]]<br />
# Take one of the RP z motor mounts and attach it to the ends of the threaded rod. The side with the two holes and the indentation should point towards the ''outside''. Add a washer and nut to the end of each rod.<br />
# Repeat this on the other side. The top of the machine should now look like this: <br/> [[File:top.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Tightening the frame ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Now that the frame is fully assembled we can adjust and tighten each of its threaded rods. You will need your frame jigs if you have them, or a reasonably precise length measurement tool.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 M8 nuts<br />
* 4 M8 washers<br />
* 1 440mm threaded rod<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. This is your frame jig J2.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>jwvujYvElhM</videoflash><br />
# Verify that the triangle vertices have distance J1 (290mm, equivalent is 11-13/32") from plastic to plastic along each of the three sides. Once you are sure of this, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firmly attached and unable to move, but do not crush the plastic parts.<br />
# Adjust each of the bottom rods until it has distance J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") between the inside ends of the vertices. Use frame jig J2 to check this if you have it. Once you are sure this is true, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firm, but do not crush the plastic.<br />
# Adjust the top of the frame so that the distance between the inside ends of the vertices is precisely J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") and the length of rod outside the vertex on one side is the same as the length outside the vertex on the other side. Double-check the distances before tightening the nut on the outside of the vertex.<br />
# The frame should now be fairly stable. Using a plumb line or similar (for example a nut hanging on a length of yarn), adjust the bar clamps on the bottom side of each triangle until they are close to center of the top vertices. Do not tighten the nuts either side of the bar clamps yet. These need to space the 440 mm rod exactly 1 bar clamp from the center line of the bot. This is so the polished z-rods are exactly centered with the bot and run perfectly vertical.<br />
# Insert the 440mm threaded rod through the two bar clamps on the bottom of the frame. make sure the new rod is on ''top'' of the triangle bottom rod. Adjust it so that the same length sticks out on each side.<br />
# On each side, place a nut, washer, bar clamp (threaded through the holes), washer, and another nut. The hole to which should go the z-running smooth rod should be virtually in center of bottom triangle rods. The setup should look like this when seen from below:<br />
<br/> [[File:bottom-rod.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the y axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 225x140mm print bottom plate<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 2 406mm smooth rods<br />
* 1 y timing belt<br />
* 1 NEMA 17 stepper motor<br />
* 1 pulley<br />
* 3 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 4 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>A46NKyBos_8</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>7ZBNewV_CWw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Mark each of the four corners of the print bottom plate 8mm (equivalent is ~5/16") from each side with the marker.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole in each of the four corners.<br />
# Clamp the print bottom plate and the print top plate together, so that the bottom plate is equally far from each edge of the top plate. Drill 3mm holes into the top plate through the corner holes in the bottom plate so that they match on both plates.<br />
# Slide the two 406mm smooth rods through the bar clamps on the front and rear threaded rods. They should fit <br />
snugly and be approximately parallel. <br />
# Place the narrow side of the "print bottom" plate between the rods. This ensures they are exactly 140mm (equivalent is 5-33/64") apart from each other. Adjust the nuts on the front side bar clamps until the print bottom plate just barely fits between the rods. Try to get them at an approximately equal distance from the middle of the rod. <br />
# Tighten the front nuts just enough that they do not move on their own, but no further.<br />
# Measure the distance from the left front vertex to the left smooth rod. Adjust the distance from the left rear vertex to the left smooth rod to match it. This ensures the left rod is parallel to the frame. Tighten the nuts on the left clamp just enough that they do not move around.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate next to the left smooth rod on the rear side. Adjust the right rear bar clamp's nuts until the narrow side of the bottom plate barely fits between the rods.<br />
# Recheck the distances from the left vertex to the left rod are the same at the front and rear and that the short side of the print bottom plate fits snugly between the smooth rods both at the front and at the rear. This should ensure that the rods are parallel to each other and to the frame. Use the diagram below to see what it should look like from above. <br/> [[File:y-rods.png|center]]<br />
# Tighten the nuts on all of the four bar clamps now.<br />
# Snap 2 PLA bushings onto each of the two smooth rods. Place them about 120mm apart on each rod. Make sure they slide freely on the rods. Put a dab of glue on the top side of the bushings (the side opposite the open side). Carefully place the print bottom plate on top of the bushings, so that it's equally far apart from each of the two triangles (see diagram below). Wait for the glue to dry. <br/> [[File:y-plate.png|center]]<br />
# While the glue is drying, adjust the bearing on the rear threaded rod until it is exactly across from the front threaded rod. Tighten the nuts on the y motor bracket and the bearings at this point. All nuts on the front and rear rods should now be tight.<br />
# Also while the glue is drying, ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel in the pulley that goes to the center hole.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Place the motor with the pulley on it next to the mounting holes in the y motor bracket. Position the motor the left, so that the pulley ends up on the side of the bearing.<br />
# Adjust the pulley position on the shaft so that when the motor is flush with the bracket, the teeth on the pulley are approximately at the position of the bearing.<br />
# Fasten the motor with 3 M3x10 bolts. Put a washer between each bolt and the y motor bracket.<br />
# Tighten the grub screw so that the pulley cannot move along the shaft.<br />
# Position the y belt on top of the print bottom plate and through both of the bearings. Pull lightly on both ends so that it is straight. If the belt is not straight, adjust the position of the rear bearing until it is. Use a marker to mark out the position of the belt on the print bottom plate. Also mark which side of the plate is on the left.<br />
# ''After the glue has dried,'' carefully pop the print bottom plate with the PLA bushings off the rails. Place the two belt clamps perpendicular to the marked position of the belt, several centimeters apart. Make sure the belt position is between the two holes on each clamp. Use a marker to mark where the holes of the belt clamps would be on the plate.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole through each of the four marked belt clamp holes.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate back on the smooth rods, paying attention to the marking to make sure the correct side is on the left.<br />
# Place one end of the belt, toothed side down, where the holes for the front belt clamp are. Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in one of the belt clamps. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt. Leave several centimeters of the belt behind the clamp.<br />
# Put two M3 nuts underneath the plate and thread them onto the bolts. Tighten both nuts so that the end of the belt is firmly attached to the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Pass the belt over the front bearing, around the motor pulley, and then up underneath the plate to the other bearing. Pull it tight, then lay it on top of the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in the second belt clamp. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt.<br />
# Attach an M3 nut to each of the two bolts, and pull the belt tight before tightening the two nuts.<br />
# Turn the motor by hand. It should turn with little effort, and each slight rotation should be matched by a slight movement of the plate. Make sure it slides smoothly along the entire length of the rods. Pushing the plate should immediately make the motor turn. Make sure the belt is not too loose (plate and motor should not be able to move independently) or too tight (taking a lot of effort to move the plate). Once you are confident your belt tension is correct, tighten the clamps very firmly. You may now trim the belt, but leave several centimeters behind each clamp for future adjustment.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the x axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-end-motor<br />
[[File:pm-x-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP x-end-idler<br />
[[File:pm-x-idler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 495mm smooth rods<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 50mm M8 threaded rod<br />
* 3 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8 nuts<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>K9bXwOZOXps</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Drill out the center hole in the hexagonal section of the x-end-idler and x-end-motor parts to 8mm.<br />
# Take the x-end-idler. Check the size of the hole on the flat, thin side surface. If it is 4mm in diameter, enlarge it using a file until it's 8mm in diameter.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps in the long channels on the bottom of the x-end-idler. You may find pulling them into the nut trap using an M3 bolt makes it easier. Thread M3x10 bolts through them, but just far enough that they do not fall out.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps of the x-end-motor part as well. Thread M3x10 bolts through those as above.<br />
# Place the x-end-motor and x-end-idler 50cm apart, so that the hexagonal parts are facing each other.<br />
# Slide the two 495mm smooth rods into the x-end idler. Make sure they go past the nut traps.<br />
# Slide the other ends of the rods into x-end-motor. Make sure they go past the nut traps. The hexagonal sections of the motor and idler should still be facing each other.<br />
# Tighten the M3 bolts on the x-end-idler. The x-end-motor should be able to move along the rods with minor effort. Do ''not'' tighten the x-end-motor bolts yet.<br />
# Thread an M8 nut onto one end of the 50mm threaded rod. (Alternatively, you can use an M8x50 bolt)<br />
# Put the following parts in this order onto the free end of the threaded rod (behind the nut): 1 fender washer, 1 M8 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 M8 washer, 1 fender washer.<br />
# Thread the free end of the threaded rod into the side of the x-end-idler. The bearing should be on the outside. Put an M8 washer and an M8 nut on the inside and tighten both nuts.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the z axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP shaft couplers<br />
[[File:pm-coupler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP rod-clamp<br />
[[File:pm-rod-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x axis assembly (from the previous step)<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 20 M3 washers<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 8 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors<br />
* 2 210mm threaded rods <br />
* 2 330mm smooth rods<br />
* 4 M8 nuts (2 optional)<br />
* 2 8.5mm ID springs (optional)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>v_W7WPdQ3Qo</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>bCK1W3SE1Xs</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Use a spirit level to make sure the two rods at the top of the frame are horizontal. If they are not, stack bits of paper under the vertices at the bottom until they are.<br />
# Drop a plumb line (or a nut tied to a length of yarn) directly down from the indentation on the side of the left z-motor-holder. Adjust the two bar clamps at the bottom of the frame on the left side until the nut falls into the U of the outer clamp. Repeat on the other side.<br />
# Put M3 nuts into the nut traps on both z-motor-holder ends.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on 2 M3x25 bolts and thread them into the flat (non-indented) end of a rod-clamp. Attach the rod-clamp to one of the z-motor-holders. Do not tighten.<br />
# Repeat for the other z-motor-holder and rod-clamp.<br />
# Insert a 330mm smooth rod into the space between each z-motor-holder and rod-clamp. Slide it in from the top. On the bottom, insert it into the U of the bottom bar clamp.<br />
# Using the plumb line, check that the smooth rods are vertical. If they are not, adjust the bottom bar clamp positions until they are. This is critical, so take as much time as you need.<br />
# Tighten the nuts on the bar clamps and the bolts on the rod clamps. Check again with the plumb line.<br />
# Place two PLA bushings on each of the smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Position the x-axis assembly inside the frame so that the bushing channels on the x-axis-motor and x-axis-idler align with the bushings. The x-end-idler should be on the right, with the bearing on the rear side of the machine.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Push the rectangular channels of x-end-idler and x-end-motor against the flat of the bushings. Position the x-end-idler against the bushings on the right side of the machine and then slide the x-end-motor along the x-axis smooth rods until it makes contact with the bushings on the left side of the machine. Let the glue dry.<br />
# While the glue is drying, assemble the couplings. Insert an M3x25 bolt, with an M3 washer, through each of the two side holes on each coupling. Put an M3 washer and M3 nut on the other end. Do not tighten yet.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried'', slide the X axis to the top of the Z axis smooth rod, and place some kind of support underneath the x-axis smooth rods to hold it up in approximately the middle of the frame. Tighten the M3x10 screws on the bottom of the x-end-motor.<br />
#Slide X axis to the bottom of the Z axis smooth rod, if you feel the bushings binding, jog the bar clamps on both sides of the Z axis untill the bushings can travel the full length of the Z rod with no resistance.<br />
# Insert an M8 nut into the bottom of the hexagonal channel of x-end-motor. Repeat for x-end-idler.<br />
# ''(optional)'' Insert a spring into the top of the hexagonal channel of each x-end part. Insert an M8 nut on top of each spring.<br />
# Thread one end of the 210mm threaded rods into each hexagonal channel from above, compressing the top nut and spring if you have them. The threaded rod should turn freely in each channel, and the nuts should stay snugly in place. Turn the rods until about half their length sticks out from the bottom of the parts.<br />
# Place a NEMA 17 motor into each of the two z-motor-holder parts, shaft down. You may ''optionally'' fasten them from underneath with M3x10 bolts and M3 washers.<br />
# Attach the narrower end of a coupling to each of the motor shafts. Do not tighten the nuts on the coupling yet.<br />
# Turn the 210mm threaded rods so that they go upwards and enter the coupling. Screw them as far into the coupling as they will go, but do not use excessive force.<br />
# Carefully tighten the M3 nuts on both couplings.<br />
# Turn both threaded rods so that the x axis moves up. Make sure the couplings are supporting the weight.<br />
# Place a spirit level on the x-axis smooth rods. Turn the threaded rod on one side only until the x axis is level. Your Z axis is ready.<br />
<br />
=== Installing the x carriage ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-carriage<br />
[[File:pm-x-cariage.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP pulley<br />
[[File:pm-pulley.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x belt<br />
* 2 M4 nuts<br />
* 5 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
* 4 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 1 Extruder<br />
* 1 NEMA17 stepper motor<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>NjowDqytHJQ</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>ahg42Vu4VLw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel on the side of the pulley rim.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Slide the pulley onto the motor shaft so that the rim comes onto the shaft last. Leave 1mm or so of shaft between the pulley and the motor body. Tighten the grub screw.<br />
# Insert the motor into the x-end-motor part so that the motor body is on the front of the machine and the pulley points towards the rear. The pulley teeth and the idler on the opposite side of the X axis should be aligned.<br />
# Fasten the motor using 4 M3x10 bolts and 4 M3 washers. The motor body should now be on top of the x-axis smooth rods.<br />
# Place 4 PLA bushings on the x-axis smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Place the x-carriage on top of the bushings, making sure they fit into the channels. The protruding part of the x-carriage with the four nut traps should be on the side of the pulley and idler, pointing towards the rear of the machine.<br />
# Wait for the glue to dry.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried,'' make sure the carriage can slide along the rods freely from end to end. Turn the entire frame around so that the rear of the machine faces towards you.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on each of two M3x25 bolts. Thread them through the holes of one belt-clamp. Repeat for the second belt-clamp.<br />
# Loosely attach one of the belt clamps to the carriage. Thread the two bolts through the holes in the carriage and attach nuts to them. Make sure there is enough space for the belt to slide between the clamp and the carriage. Repeat for the other clamp.<br />
# Slide one end of the belt through the left clamp, toothed side up. Pull several centimeters through, then tighten the clamp.<br />
# Run the belt over the 608 bearing and the motor pulley, then thread it through the other clamp, toothed side up. The belt should now form an elongated loop with the teeth on the inside of the loop. Pull the belt tight and tighten the second clamp.<br />
# Verify that the belt tension is right. Turning the motor pulley by hand should make the carriage move. The carriage should move freely along the entire length of the axis.<br />
# Use two M4x20 bolts and two M4 nuts to mount the extruder to the x-carriage.<br />
<br />
====Tips for assembling Wade + Arcols hotend====<br />
#DON'T MOUNT THE MOTOR AND THE BIG GEAR. Wait till its written here in tips.<br />
#Look at Wade assembly manual [http://reprap.org/wiki/Wade's_Geared_Extruder]<br />
#Prepare big wheel with hobbed bolt. Test with filament in fillament path if it matches the hobbet part of wade bolt. Prepare pulley on motor.<br />
#Assemble the long bolts for idler and the bearings. Check how bolts is lining the filament path and other stuff.<br />
#Mount the hotend to the Wade. <br />
#Mount the Wade to the x-carriage.<br />
#Mount the belt on the side where will be the motor.<br />
#Assemble the motor to Wade. Dont use washer on two bolts nearest the big gear. Preferably use low profile screws. Also dont tighten these two screw too much, you can later slide the motor without taking out the big gear.<br />
#Add the hobbed bolt with gear.<br />
#Add the idler.<br />
<br />
=== Wiring the electronics ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 Electronics setup (Pololu, Ramps, Gen3, Gen6, or anything else compatible)<br />
* 3 endstops<br />
* 3 RP endstop holders<br />
* 3 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 6 M3 washers<br />
* 3 M3 nuts<br />
* A lot of cable ties<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
Electronics assembly.<br />
<videoflash>UHBDstsSJj0</videoflash><br />
<br />
# There are various electronics configurations out there, but thay are mostly compatible. Regardless of what electronics you have, you should have at least three stepper drivers, ideally four. Those are either integrated on the board or separate modules. Identify the motor connections for X, Y, Z and the extruder stepper (E on some setups). Also identify the connections for the heated bed (if you have one), the extruder heater connection, the extruder and heated bed thermistors, and the X, Y and Z MIN endstop connections.<br />
# Screw or glue your endstops (opto or microswitch) to the long side of the three endstop holders.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, you will need to make three opto flags. These are long, thin strips of some easily formable, opaque material, for example metal sheet from drink cans. If you are using microswitch endstops, you can skip this step. Take an empty drink can and cut three 10mmx30mm pieces from from it. These will be your optoflags.<br />
# Position your endstops on the smooth rods. Facing the front of the machine, place one on the left z smooth rod below where the x axis currently is. This is your Place one on the far left of the rear x axis smooth rod. Place the third one on the right y axis smooth rod behind the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on an M3x25 bolt and thread it through each endstop holder, and put a washer and M3 nut on the other side. Do not tighten these nuts yet.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, glue an optoflag onto the left side of the x-carriage, the bottom of the x-motor-bracket (pointing down) and the print bottom plate, so that they go through the gap in the optoswitch as the axis slides.<br />
# You now need to determine the limits of each axis. With the extruder/hotend installed, slide the X carriage left until the nozzle is 10mm to the right from the left edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that the opto/switch is engaged in this position. If your optoflag is too long, trim it until it just barely triggers the endstop when the nozzle is in this position. Tighten the nut on the X endstop, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Slide the print bottom plate backwards until the nozzle is about 42mm (equivalent is 1-21/32") in front of the front edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that it engages when the print bottom plate is in this position. Tighten the Y endstop nut, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the Z axis moves downwards. Do not worry about the height yet. You will need to adjust the position of this endstop once the bed is installed and leveled. <br />
# Decide where your electronics will live. Mount these in place first, that will allow you to route cables easier.<br />
# Slide the X carriage as far away from the electronics as possible.<br />
# Route the cables from each of the endstops along the frame to the electronics board. Plug each one into the appropriate connector. For the X endstop, leave enough slack in the cable to allow the X axis to move along the Z all the way up and down the frame. Make sure none of the wires interfere with the movement of the axes. Use zipties to fix the wires to the frame. <br />
# Splice the Z motor wires together in parallel. If the motors are identical, join each wire with the wire of the same color, and then attach them to the connector that matches your electronics. Route the wires along the frame to your electronics board, and attach them to the Z-driver connector. Use cable ties to fix the wires to the frame.<br />
# Attach the Y motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame (making sure they don't interfere with the Y-axis movement) and attach them to your electronics at the Y-driver connector. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Attach the X motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame and attach them to your electronics at the X-driver connector. Leave enough slack for the X-axis to move all the way up and down the Z axis without getting caught on the wires. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Leaving enough slack so that the wires don't get stretched even when the X carriage is furthest away from the electronics, route the extruder motor, heater, and thermistor wires along the frame, to the electronics. Keep careful track of which wire is which. Color-coding is recommended. If your wires are not different colors, attach labels to the ends. Attach connectors to the wires to match your electronics and plug them into your electronics board. The stepper connection goes into the EXTRUDER/E connector. Tie the cables down to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Move the X and Y axes all the way in each direction, and check that no wires interfere with movement. Once done, slide each axis to approximately the middle of its range.<br />
# Get a piece of paper, and write "X, Y, Z, E" on it.<br />
# Plug in the power and USB connections to the electronics. ''From this point on, if ANYTHING acts strange, switch off power first, and figure it out later. This is extremely important!''<br />
# Connect to the electronics from a computer using repsnapper, reprap host, or replicatorg.<br />
# Stand in front of the machine. In the software, tell the X axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves to the RIGHT, write "OK" under X on your paper. If it moves to the LEFT, write "REV" under X. If it does not move write "NO" under it.<br />
# Tell the Y axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves FORWARD (towards you), write "OK" under Y. If it moves BACKWARD (away from you), write "REV" under Y. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Y on your paper.<br />
# Tell the Z axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves UP, write "OK" under Z. If it moves DOWN, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Tell the extruder to move forward (positive). If it moves in the direction that would push filament into , the nozzle, write "OK" under Z. If it moves in the opposite direction, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Close the software and ''switch off the power to the machine!''<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "REV", unplug its connector from the electronics, turn it by 180 degrees, and plug it in again. If the connector is polarized (can only be plugged in one way), you might need to reconnect the wires to the connector.<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "NO", make sure its connector is wired to the motor, and the connector is seated properly.<br />
# Repeat the test until all axes are labeled "OK". Now tell the X and Y axes to home. They should move until they reach their endstops, then stop.<br />
<br />
=== Attaching the print bed ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 4 M3x40 bolts<br />
* 4 ballpoint pen springs<br />
* 8 M3 nuts (optionally nyloc)<br />
* 16 M3 washers<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>dQSLWYBepVA</videoflash><br />
# If you have a heated build platform, install it on the print top plate at this point. Cover your top plate or build platform with whatever your build surface material will be (Kapton, blue tape, etc.) <br />
# Put a washer on each of the four M3x40 bolts.<br />
# Thread each bolt through one of the holes in the print top plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer, a ballpoint pen spring, and another M3 washer onto each bolt.<br />
# Thread a nut onto each bolt to fasten it to the print top plate. Do not tighten. This nut is only there to hold the springs in place.<br />
# Carefully place the print top plate on top of the print bottom plate. Make sure each bolt goes through one of the holes in the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer and nut on the end of each of the bolts.<br />
# Level the bed. To do this, put a spirit level on top of the bed and adjust the nuts of each of the M3 bolts until the spirit level shows the bed is level. Use the top nut to adjust the height and the bottom nut to fix it. If you have a heated build platform, put the spirit level on the platform. Once done, tighten all nuts.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the nozzle is just barely above the bed. <br />
# You are now ready to print. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
=== Firmware modifications ===<br />
<br />
#Because the Z axis rods are directly driven, you need to alter your firmware to reflect this. For 5/16 rod lead screws you need to change the #define z_steps_per_mm to 1133.858 in 1/8 and 2267.716 with 1/16 stepping.<br />
<br />
== Media ==<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyVM3-v84I0 Two printers simultaneously] - Prusa and shaper cube working side by side.<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh3S9aOMRhU Prusa homing using enstops]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8c5fB9Ozek Prusa development overview]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MvUD-tuOX0 Prusa Y axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-pDYDnHYaQ Prusa Z axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNRapg2gaPg Early preview of the Prusa Mendel redesign]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/56020395@N06/sets/72157625420636778/show/ Fumon's Prusa build session 1] - D1plo1d building Fumon's Prusa Mendel at Hacklab.to. Should give a hint as to how the Prusa Mendel parts go together.<br />
<br />
== Prusa Improvements/Hacks ==<br />
* Rob's [[Auto-centering shaft coupler]] - designed to reduce shaft/motor vibrations (print 2/replaces 2x coupler). May require widening the openings on the z motor mounts to allow the rotation of the zip tie. Use a zip tie gun to get maximum compression on the coupling.<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[PLA bushings]]<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
* [http://prusadjs.cz/ Prusa's Blog]<br />
* [http://feeds.feedburner.com/Prusabuilders Prusa Builder Blog Feed]<br />
* [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel assembly photo gallery]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel&diff=29141Prusa Mendel2011-02-27T14:19:50Z<p>Prusajr: /* Tips for assembling Wade + Arcols hotend */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa Mendel<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of normal [[Mendel]].<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr (design), Kliment (maintenance and documentation)<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel Variations|Mendel Variations]][[Category:Mendel Variations]],<br />
}}<br />
<br />
Also see [[SAE Prusa Mendel]] if you are building this machine using SAE (Imperial) Fasterers<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of the original [[Mendel]]. I wanted to use bushings instead of regular bearings. The current version uses three 608 bearings in total, one for the X and two for the Y axis. The 624 bearings are gone altogether.<br />
I have the entire machine up and running, with my printed PLA bushings. It's pretty smooth.<br />
<br/><br />
__TOC__<br />
<div style="clear:both"></div><br />
<videoflash>tyVM3-v84I0</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel<br />
<br />
You can follow the changes on [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/commits/master Changelog]<br />
<br />
You can sign up for github for free and fork the project to begin working on it.<br />
<br />
=== History ===<br />
* http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-pla-bushings.html<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials ==<br />
<br />
=== Printed Parts ===<br />
2x coupling RP<br />
3x endstop-holder RP<br />
1x x-carriage RP<br />
1x x-end-idler RP<br />
1x x-end-motor RP<br />
1x y-motor-bracket RP<br />
2x z-motor-mount RP<br />
4x belt-clamp RP<br />
8x bar-clamp RP<br />
2x rod-clamp RP<br />
2x pulley RP<br />
AND EITHER<br />
6x frame-vertex RP<br />
OR<br />
4x frame-vertex with foot RP<br />
2x frame-vertex RP<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Printed Bushings ====<br />
12x pla-bushing RP-PLA (check your build file, the file makes either 4 or 12.)<br />
<br />
=== Non-Printed Parts ("vitamins") ===<br />
(necessary)<br />
83x M8 nut Fastener (buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side. These are useful)<br />
93x M8 washer Fastener (again, buy a 100-pack.)<br />
2x M4x20 bolt Fastener<br />
2x M4 nut Fastener<br />
2x M4 washer Fastener<br />
22x M3x10 bolt Fastener<br />
16x M3x25 bolt Fastener<br />
4x M3x40 bolt Fastener<br />
70x M3 washer Fastener<br />
40x M3 nut (8 optionally nyloc) Fastener<br />
2x M3 grub screw (or M3x10 bolt) Fastener<br />
6x M8x30 Mudguard/fender washers Fastener<br />
3x 608 Bearing Bearings<br />
4x Ballpoint pen springs Spring<br />
6x M8x370mm side Threaded rod<br />
4x M8x294mm front/rear Threaded rod <br />
3x M8x440mm top/bottom Threaded rod<br />
2x M8x210mm Z-leadscrew Threaded rod<br />
1x M8x50mm threaded rod or bolt for X idler Threaded rod<br />
2x 8mmx495mm X-bar Smooth rod --Seems too long on my build, maybe 425 or 430? [[http://reprap.org/wiki/User:Bryanandaimee -Bryan]]<br />
2x 8mmx406mm Y-bar Smooth rod<br />
2x 8mmx350mm Z-bar Smooth rod<br />
1x 225mmx225mm print top plate Thick Sheet<br />
1x 140mmx225mm print bottom plate. Thick Sheet<br />
1x 840mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
1x 1380mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
5x Nema 17 bipolar NEMA Stepper<br />
50x Small cable binder/ziptie Misc.<br />
1x [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] (or any other compatible extruder)<br />
1x Electronics + endstops. This can be [[RAMPS]],[[Pololu Electronics]],[[Generation_6_Electronics|Gen6]],[[Generation_3_Electronics|Gen3]],or anything else compatible<br />
(optional)<br />
3x 30mmx10mm Optoflags (if using opto endstops) Thin, stiff, opaque sheet<br />
2x 8mm ID spring Spring<br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. <br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. <br />
(You can combine the latter two by having a piece of thick sheet with dimensions 290x234. Make sure to mark which side is which.)<br />
<br />
When cutting the threaded rods from 1m lengths, you will need 6x 1m pieces (or 5x 1m pieces and 1x 50cm piece). Cut them as follows:<br />
Rod 1: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm (the last piece will turn up somewhat shorter than 50mm. Use it for your idler)<br />
Rod 2: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm<br />
Rod 3: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 4: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 5: 440mm, 440mm, ~120mm<br />
Rod 6: 440mm<br />
<br />
(The Prusa Mendel uses the 4 drivers in the standard Mendel electronics package to drive 5 motors by using "two steppers wired in parallel to one driver"[http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-y-and-z-axes.html]).<br />
<br />
=== Buy the Non-Printed parts (vitamins) ===<br />
<br />
Hardware sets are available in [[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#Electrical_and_mechanical_kits_and_parts]]<br />
<br />
== Printing the Parts ==<br />
[[File:Prusa.jpg|right|thumbnail|300px|A printed set of Prusa Mendel parts]]<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a Mendel ===<br />
An easier option then individually printing each part if you are printing Prusa on a RepRap Mendel is the pre-assembled build file containing the Prusa parts. With this option you only need to print the Mendel plate and the PLA bushings to get a complete Prusa Mendel:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mendelplate.stl Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/pla-bushing.stl PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
SAE versions:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mendelplate.stl SAE Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/pla-bushing.stl SAE PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]] ===<br />
There are also pre-assembled build files available to fit your [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]]'s build area (download using right click => save as)<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' <br />
* These plates are 85x95mm in size. <br />
<br />
Plates for the MakerBot (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate1.stl Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate2.stl Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate3.stl Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate4.stl Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate5.stl Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
SAE versions: (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate1.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate2.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate3.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate4.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate5.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on anything else ===<br />
Last but not least, if you have a machine that doesn't fit into any of the previous options all the .stl files necessary to print a Prusa Mendel are available on the [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel PrusaMendel Github] where you can download them and print them individually.<br />
<br />
=== Buy the printed parts ===<br />
[[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#RepRapped_Parts_Kits]]<br />
<br />
== Assembly ==<br />
<br />
For the visually oriented, have a look at this [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel photo gallery] of an ongoing Mendel Prusa build.<br />
<br />
===Assembling the frame vertex triangles (2x)===<br />
Notes:<br />
*Heating the flat side of a bushing with a hair dryer or heat gun before snapping onto the smooth bar can keep it from snapping.<br />
<br />
This part takes 15 minutes per triangle to assemble, for a total of 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
There is a triangle on each side of the Prusa RepRap, you will need to make 2 of these and then connect them together (see next step) to form the Prusa frame. Each side is an equilateral triangle with a frame vertex on each corner. You can use either footed or non-footed vertices to build this (the footed ones look better, but are not critical.) The instructions assume you are using footed vertices.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required (per triangle)'''<br />
* 2 RP footed frame vertices<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP frame vertex (non-footed)<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP bar clamp<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 3 370mm M8 threaded rods<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>-PFy4KhW9gE</videoflash><br />
# Take one of the 370mm threaded rods, and slip an M8 washer onto the middle of it.<br />
# Take the RP bar clamp (the U-shaped bit with the two holes) and slide the threaded rod through the two holes until the clamp sits next to the washer.<br />
# Slide another washer onto the rod from the other side.<br />
# Thread two M8 nuts onto either side of the clamp, until they are next to the washer, but do not tighten them yet.<br />
# Thread another two nuts on each side of the rod, followed by washers. See the picture for what it should look like. <flickr>5188262096|thumb|right|m|The bar clamp on the threaded rod.</flickr><br />
# Slide the rod through the long bottom (footed) side of two vertices. Make sure the feet point in the same direction. Also make sure the bulge on the non-footed side of the vertex points outwards.<br />
# Measure the distance. The distance between the two vertices should be 290mm (along the rod, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Get it approximately right now, we will check this again later. If you have a frame jig, place it between the two vertices and adjust the nuts until you can just barely fit the jig J1 between them.<br />
# Place another washer and nut on the other side of the vertex. Tighten, but not too much. We'll need a bit of flexibility here still.<br />
# Take another 370mm M8 threaded rod and place a nut followed by a washer at each end.<br />
# Place one end of the threaded rod into the one of the two footed frame vertices. It should be in the same plane as the first threaded rod. fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have two sides of the equilateral triangle.<br />
# Take the third piece of threaded rod and put a nut and washer on each end. Place it in the other footed vertex and fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have a triangle of threaded rods with two footed vertices on two of the corners, nothing in the third corner, and a bar clamp between the two vertices.<br />
# Take the third vertex (non-footed) and slide it onto the threaded rods in the final corner of the triangle. Measure the lenghts of the three sides to make sure they are all 290mm long (along the rod from plastic part to plastic part, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Adjust the nuts to make sure this is so. Use the frame jig J1 if you have one. Once done, place a washer and nut on the top of the vertex. Tighten all the outer nuts. <br />
<flickr>5188259098|thumb|right|m|The finished frame triangle </flickr><br />
# You should now have a sturdy triangle with equal-length sides, two feet on the bottom, and a bar clamp between the feet. Adjust the nuts around the bar clamp (but do not crush the bar clamp together yet) until it's approximately in the middle of the rod. Leave the nuts there loose. See photo for what you should have at this point.<br />
# That's it, that's one of the triangles done. Repeat the entire procedure for the second triangle. It is exactly identical to the first.<br />
<br />
Now we need to connect the 2 frame triangles to form the Prusa RepRap frame.<br />
<br />
The easiest way to do this is to thread everything onto the front and rear threaded rods and attach those to the triangles first, and then thread the top rods through. That's what the instructions below assume you are doing.<br />
<br style="clear:both"/><br />
<br />
=== Assembling the front threaded rods ===<br />
This step takes about 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the front/bottom vertex of each triangle as well as the y-stage bars and y motor mount to the frame.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP y motor bracket<br />
[[File:pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 18 M8 nuts<br />
* 20 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>9ut45Pe9gkw</videoflash><br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Thread an M8 nut onto the middle of the rod. Slide an M8 washer next to it. <br />
# Thread the rod through the bottom hole of the RP y-motor-bracket. The bottom hole of the bracket is the long, straight side.<flickr>5373622677|thumb|right|m|The long, straight side of the RP Y motor bracket will be parallel to ground when you are all done.</flickr><br />
# Slide another washer onto the other side of the rod and add another M8 nut to hold it in place.<br />
# Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, the y-motor-bracket (with the pointy bit pointed towards you),1 washer, 1 nut, 2 washers, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# When you hold it with the bigger part (with the circular hole) of the motor bracket ''towards you'', it should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:front-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# You can now attach this setup to the triangle sides. Make sure the bigger part of the motor bracket points '''OUT''' of the triangle. Thread the ends of the rods through two of the footed vertices. Put a washer and nut on the end of each threaded rod.<br />
It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:front-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the rear threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 20 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the back/bottom vertex of the 2 triangles together as well as the y-stage bars and belt pulley.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>LfjWQKbxPGI</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>Pern6akmEn4</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is again a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# It should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:rear-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# Attach the two rods to the two remaining footed vertices. Thread each end of the rod through the vertex, and add a washer and nut. It should now look like this: <br/> [[File:rear-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
Your frame should now be standing on its own feet without support, but the tops sides of the triangles will still be wobbly. We'll fix that next.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the top threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
These connect the 2 frame triangles at their tops as well as providing mounts for the z-axis motors.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled and connected frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP z motor mounts<br />
[[File:pm-z-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 12 M8 nuts<br />
* 16 M8 washers<br />
* 2 440mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>HI77eGBl4gU</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Slide one of the threaded rods through one side of one of the top vertices. Put a washer, two nuts, and another washer on the part of the rod between the top vertices. This is what it should look like when seen from above: <br/> [[File:top-step1.png|center]]<br />
# Repeat for the other rod. It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:top-step2.png|center]]<br />
# Slide the rods through the opposite side vertex. Thread the nuts up to the vertices on each side.<br />
# To each of the four ends of the threaded rod, add a washer, a nut and another washer. Your setup should now look like this: <br/>[[File:top-step3.png|center]]<br />
# Take one of the RP z motor mounts and attach it to the ends of the threaded rod. The side with the two holes and the indentation should point towards the ''outside''. Add a washer and nut to the end of each rod.<br />
# Repeat this on the other side. The top of the machine should now look like this: <br/> [[File:top.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Tightening the frame ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Now that the frame is fully assembled we can adjust and tighten each of its threaded rods. You will need your frame jigs if you have them, or a reasonably precise length measurement tool.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 M8 nuts<br />
* 4 M8 washers<br />
* 1 440mm threaded rod<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. This is your frame jig J2.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>jwvujYvElhM</videoflash><br />
# Verify that the triangle vertices have distance J1 (290mm, equivalent is 11-13/32") from plastic to plastic along each of the three sides. Once you are sure of this, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firmly attached and unable to move, but do not crush the plastic parts.<br />
# Adjust each of the bottom rods until it has distance J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") between the inside ends of the vertices. Use frame jig J2 to check this if you have it. Once you are sure this is true, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firm, but do not crush the plastic.<br />
# Adjust the top of the frame so that the distance between the inside ends of the vertices is precisely J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") and the length of rod outside the vertex on one side is the same as the length outside the vertex on the other side. Double-check the distances before tightening the nut on the outside of the vertex.<br />
# The frame should now be fairly stable. Using a plumb line or similar (for example a nut hanging on a length of yarn), adjust the bar clamps on the bottom side of each triangle until they are close to center of the top vertices. Do not tighten the nuts either side of the bar clamps yet. These need to space the 440 mm rod exactly 1 bar clamp from the center line of the bot. This is so the polished z-rods are exactly centered with the bot and run perfectly vertical.<br />
# Insert the 440mm threaded rod through the two bar clamps on the bottom of the frame. make sure the new rod is on ''top'' of the triangle bottom rod. Adjust it so that the same length sticks out on each side.<br />
# On each side, place a nut, washer, bar clamp (threaded through the holes), washer, and another nut. The hole to which should go the z-running smooth rod should be virtually in center of bottom triangle rods. The setup should look like this when seen from below:<br />
<br/> [[File:bottom-rod.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the y axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 225x140mm print bottom plate<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 2 406mm smooth rods<br />
* 1 y timing belt<br />
* 1 NEMA 17 stepper motor<br />
* 1 pulley<br />
* 3 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 4 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>A46NKyBos_8</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>7ZBNewV_CWw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Mark each of the four corners of the print bottom plate 8mm (equivalent is ~5/16") from each side with the marker.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole in each of the four corners.<br />
# Clamp the print bottom plate and the print top plate together, so that the bottom plate is equally far from each edge of the top plate. Drill 3mm holes into the top plate through the corner holes in the bottom plate so that they match on both plates.<br />
# Slide the two 406mm smooth rods through the bar clamps on the front and rear threaded rods. They should fit <br />
snugly and be approximately parallel. <br />
# Place the narrow side of the "print bottom" plate between the rods. This ensures they are exactly 140mm (equivalent is 5-33/64") apart from each other. Adjust the nuts on the front side bar clamps until the print bottom plate just barely fits between the rods. Try to get them at an approximately equal distance from the middle of the rod. <br />
# Tighten the front nuts just enough that they do not move on their own, but no further.<br />
# Measure the distance from the left front vertex to the left smooth rod. Adjust the distance from the left rear vertex to the left smooth rod to match it. This ensures the left rod is parallel to the frame. Tighten the nuts on the left clamp just enough that they do not move around.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate next to the left smooth rod on the rear side. Adjust the right rear bar clamp's nuts until the narrow side of the bottom plate barely fits between the rods.<br />
# Recheck the distances from the left vertex to the left rod are the same at the front and rear and that the short side of the print bottom plate fits snugly between the smooth rods both at the front and at the rear. This should ensure that the rods are parallel to each other and to the frame. Use the diagram below to see what it should look like from above. <br/> [[File:y-rods.png|center]]<br />
# Tighten the nuts on all of the four bar clamps now.<br />
# Snap 2 PLA bushings onto each of the two smooth rods. Place them about 120mm apart on each rod. Make sure they slide freely on the rods. Put a dab of glue on the top side of the bushings (the side opposite the open side). Carefully place the print bottom plate on top of the bushings, so that it's equally far apart from each of the two triangles (see diagram below). Wait for the glue to dry. <br/> [[File:y-plate.png|center]]<br />
# While the glue is drying, adjust the bearing on the rear threaded rod until it is exactly across from the front threaded rod. Tighten the nuts on the y motor bracket and the bearings at this point. All nuts on the front and rear rods should now be tight.<br />
# Also while the glue is drying, ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel in the pulley that goes to the center hole.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Place the motor with the pulley on it next to the mounting holes in the y motor bracket. Position the motor the left, so that the pulley ends up on the side of the bearing.<br />
# Adjust the pulley position on the shaft so that when the motor is flush with the bracket, the teeth on the pulley are approximately at the position of the bearing.<br />
# Fasten the motor with 3 M3x10 bolts. Put a washer between each bolt and the y motor bracket.<br />
# Tighten the grub screw so that the pulley cannot move along the shaft.<br />
# Position the y belt on top of the print bottom plate and through both of the bearings. Pull lightly on both ends so that it is straight. If the belt is not straight, adjust the position of the rear bearing until it is. Use a marker to mark out the position of the belt on the print bottom plate. Also mark which side of the plate is on the left.<br />
# ''After the glue has dried,'' carefully pop the print bottom plate with the PLA bushings off the rails. Place the two belt clamps perpendicular to the marked position of the belt, several centimeters apart. Make sure the belt position is between the two holes on each clamp. Use a marker to mark where the holes of the belt clamps would be on the plate.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole through each of the four marked belt clamp holes.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate back on the smooth rods, paying attention to the marking to make sure the correct side is on the left.<br />
# Place one end of the belt, toothed side down, where the holes for the front belt clamp are. Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in one of the belt clamps. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt. Leave several centimeters of the belt behind the clamp.<br />
# Put two M3 nuts underneath the plate and thread them onto the bolts. Tighten both nuts so that the end of the belt is firmly attached to the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Pass the belt over the front bearing, around the motor pulley, and then up underneath the plate to the other bearing. Pull it tight, then lay it on top of the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in the second belt clamp. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt.<br />
# Attach an M3 nut to each of the two bolts, and pull the belt tight before tightening the two nuts.<br />
# Turn the motor by hand. It should turn with little effort, and each slight rotation should be matched by a slight movement of the plate. Make sure it slides smoothly along the entire length of the rods. Pushing the plate should immediately make the motor turn. Make sure the belt is not too loose (plate and motor should not be able to move independently) or too tight (taking a lot of effort to move the plate). Once you are confident your belt tension is correct, tighten the clamps very firmly. You may now trim the belt, but leave several centimeters behind each clamp for future adjustment.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the x axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-end-motor<br />
[[File:pm-x-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP x-end-idler<br />
[[File:pm-x-idler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 495mm smooth rods<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 50mm M8 threaded rod<br />
* 3 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8 nuts<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>K9bXwOZOXps</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Drill out the center hole in the hexagonal section of the x-end-idler and x-end-motor parts to 8mm.<br />
# Take the x-end-idler. Check the size of the hole on the flat, thin side surface. If it is 4mm in diameter, enlarge it using a file until it's 8mm in diameter.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps in the long channels on the bottom of the x-end-idler. You may find pulling them into the nut trap using an M3 bolt makes it easier. Thread M3x10 bolts through them, but just far enough that they do not fall out.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps of the x-end-motor part as well. Thread M3x10 bolts through those as above.<br />
# Place the x-end-motor and x-end-idler 50cm apart, so that the hexagonal parts are facing each other.<br />
# Slide the two 495mm smooth rods into the x-end idler. Make sure they go past the nut traps.<br />
# Slide the other ends of the rods into x-end-motor. Make sure they go past the nut traps. The hexagonal sections of the motor and idler should still be facing each other.<br />
# Tighten the M3 bolts on the x-end-idler. The x-end-motor should be able to move along the rods with minor effort. Do ''not'' tighten the x-end-motor bolts yet.<br />
# Thread an M8 nut onto one end of the 50mm threaded rod. (Alternatively, you can use an M8x50 bolt)<br />
# Put the following parts in this order onto the free end of the threaded rod (behind the nut): 1 fender washer, 1 M8 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 M8 washer, 1 fender washer.<br />
# Thread the free end of the threaded rod into the side of the x-end-idler. The bearing should be on the outside. Put an M8 washer and an M8 nut on the inside and tighten both nuts.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the z axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP shaft couplers<br />
[[File:pm-coupler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP rod-clamp<br />
[[File:pm-rod-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x axis assembly (from the previous step)<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 20 M3 washers<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 8 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors<br />
* 2 210mm threaded rods <br />
* 2 330mm smooth rods<br />
* 4 M8 nuts (2 optional)<br />
* 2 8.5mm ID springs (optional)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>v_W7WPdQ3Qo</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>bCK1W3SE1Xs</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Use a spirit level to make sure the two rods at the top of the frame are horizontal. If they are not, stack bits of paper under the vertices at the bottom until they are.<br />
# Drop a plumb line (or a nut tied to a length of yarn) directly down from the indentation on the side of the left z-motor-holder. Adjust the two bar clamps at the bottom of the frame on the left side until the nut falls into the U of the outer clamp. Repeat on the other side.<br />
# Put M3 nuts into the nut traps on both z-motor-holder ends.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on 2 M3x25 bolts and thread them into the flat (non-indented) end of a rod-clamp. Attach the rod-clamp to one of the z-motor-holders. Do not tighten.<br />
# Repeat for the other z-motor-holder and rod-clamp.<br />
# Insert a 330mm smooth rod into the space between each z-motor-holder and rod-clamp. Slide it in from the top. On the bottom, insert it into the U of the bottom bar clamp.<br />
# Using the plumb line, check that the smooth rods are vertical. If they are not, adjust the bottom bar clamp positions until they are. This is critical, so take as much time as you need.<br />
# Tighten the nuts on the bar clamps and the bolts on the rod clamps. Check again with the plumb line.<br />
# Place two PLA bushings on each of the smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Position the x-axis assembly inside the frame so that the bushing channels on the x-axis-motor and x-axis-idler align with the bushings. The x-end-idler should be on the right, with the bearing on the rear side of the machine.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Push the rectangular channels of x-end-idler and x-end-motor against the flat of the bushings. Position the x-end-idler against the bushings on the right side of the machine and then slide the x-end-motor along the x-axis smooth rods until it makes contact with the bushings on the left side of the machine. Let the glue dry.<br />
# While the glue is drying, assemble the couplings. Insert an M3x25 bolt, with an M3 washer, through each of the two side holes on each coupling. Put an M3 washer and M3 nut on the other end. Do not tighten yet.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried'', slide the X axis to the top of the Z axis smooth rod, and place some kind of support underneath the x-axis smooth rods to hold it up in approximately the middle of the frame. Tighten the M3x10 screws on the bottom of the x-end-motor.<br />
#Slide X axis to the bottom of the Z axis smooth rod, if you feel the bushings binding, jog the bar clamps on both sides of the Z axis untill the bushings can travel the full length of the Z rod with no resistance.<br />
# Insert an M8 nut into the bottom of the hexagonal channel of x-end-motor. Repeat for x-end-idler.<br />
# ''(optional)'' Insert a spring into the top of the hexagonal channel of each x-end part. Insert an M8 nut on top of each spring.<br />
# Thread one end of the 210mm threaded rods into each hexagonal channel from above, compressing the top nut and spring if you have them. The threaded rod should turn freely in each channel, and the nuts should stay snugly in place. Turn the rods until about half their length sticks out from the bottom of the parts.<br />
# Place a NEMA 17 motor into each of the two z-motor-holder parts, shaft down. You may ''optionally'' fasten them from underneath with M3x10 bolts and M3 washers.<br />
# Attach the narrower end of a coupling to each of the motor shafts. Do not tighten the nuts on the coupling yet.<br />
# Turn the 210mm threaded rods so that they go upwards and enter the coupling. Screw them as far into the coupling as they will go, but do not use excessive force.<br />
# Carefully tighten the M3 nuts on both couplings.<br />
# Turn both threaded rods so that the x axis moves up. Make sure the couplings are supporting the weight.<br />
# Place a spirit level on the x-axis smooth rods. Turn the threaded rod on one side only until the x axis is level. Your Z axis is ready.<br />
<br />
=== Installing the x carriage ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-carriage<br />
[[File:pm-x-cariage.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP pulley<br />
[[File:pm-pulley.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x belt<br />
* 2 M4 nuts<br />
* 5 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
* 4 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 1 Extruder<br />
* 1 NEMA17 stepper motor<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>NjowDqytHJQ</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>ahg42Vu4VLw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel on the side of the pulley rim.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Slide the pulley onto the motor shaft so that the rim comes onto the shaft last. Leave 1mm or so of shaft between the pulley and the motor body. Tighten the grub screw.<br />
# Insert the motor into the x-end-motor part so that the motor body is on the front of the machine and the pulley points towards the rear. The pulley teeth and the idler on the opposite side of the X axis should be aligned.<br />
# Fasten the motor using 4 M3x10 bolts and 4 M3 washers. The motor body should now be on top of the x-axis smooth rods.<br />
# Place 4 PLA bushings on the x-axis smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Place the x-carriage on top of the bushings, making sure they fit into the channels. The protruding part of the x-carriage with the four nut traps should be on the side of the pulley and idler, pointing towards the rear of the machine.<br />
# Wait for the glue to dry.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried,'' make sure the carriage can slide along the rods freely from end to end. Turn the entire frame around so that the rear of the machine faces towards you.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on each of two M3x25 bolts. Thread them through the holes of one belt-clamp. Repeat for the second belt-clamp.<br />
# Loosely attach one of the belt clamps to the carriage. Thread the two bolts through the holes in the carriage and attach nuts to them. Make sure there is enough space for the belt to slide between the clamp and the carriage. Repeat for the other clamp.<br />
# Slide one end of the belt through the left clamp, toothed side up. Pull several centimeters through, then tighten the clamp.<br />
# Run the belt over the 608 bearing and the motor pulley, then thread it through the other clamp, toothed side up. The belt should now form an elongated loop with the teeth on the inside of the loop. Pull the belt tight and tighten the second clamp.<br />
# Verify that the belt tension is right. Turning the motor pulley by hand should make the carriage move. The carriage should move freely along the entire length of the axis.<br />
# Use two M4x20 bolts and two M4 nuts to mount the extruder to the x-carriage.<br />
<br />
====Tips for assembling Wade + Arcols hotend====<br />
#DON'T MOUNT THE MOTOR AND THE BIG GEAR. Wait till its written here in tips.<br />
#Look at Wade assembly manual [http://reprap.org/wiki/Wade's_Geared_Extruder]<br />
#Prepare big wheel with hobbed bolt. Test with filament in fillament path if it matches the hobbet part of wade bolt. Prepare pulley on motor.<br />
#Assemble the long bolts for idler and the bearings. Check how bolts is lining the filament path and other stuff.<br />
#Mount the hotend to the Wade. <br />
#Mount the Wade to the x-carriage.<br />
#Mount the belt on the side where will be the motor.<br />
#Assemble the motor to Wade. Dont use washer on two bolts nearer to the. Preferably use low profile screws. Also dont tighten these two screw too much, you can later slide the motor without taking out the big gear.<br />
#Add the hobbed bolt with gear.<br />
#Add the idler.<br />
<br />
=== Wiring the electronics ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 Electronics setup (Pololu, Ramps, Gen3, Gen6, or anything else compatible)<br />
* 3 endstops<br />
* 3 RP endstop holders<br />
* 3 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 6 M3 washers<br />
* 3 M3 nuts<br />
* A lot of cable ties<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
Electronics assembly.<br />
<videoflash>UHBDstsSJj0</videoflash><br />
<br />
# There are various electronics configurations out there, but thay are mostly compatible. Regardless of what electronics you have, you should have at least three stepper drivers, ideally four. Those are either integrated on the board or separate modules. Identify the motor connections for X, Y, Z and the extruder stepper (E on some setups). Also identify the connections for the heated bed (if you have one), the extruder heater connection, the extruder and heated bed thermistors, and the X, Y and Z MIN endstop connections.<br />
# Screw or glue your endstops (opto or microswitch) to the long side of the three endstop holders.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, you will need to make three opto flags. These are long, thin strips of some easily formable, opaque material, for example metal sheet from drink cans. If you are using microswitch endstops, you can skip this step. Take an empty drink can and cut three 10mmx30mm pieces from from it. These will be your optoflags.<br />
# Position your endstops on the smooth rods. Facing the front of the machine, place one on the left z smooth rod below where the x axis currently is. This is your Place one on the far left of the rear x axis smooth rod. Place the third one on the right y axis smooth rod behind the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on an M3x25 bolt and thread it through each endstop holder, and put a washer and M3 nut on the other side. Do not tighten these nuts yet.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, glue an optoflag onto the left side of the x-carriage, the bottom of the x-motor-bracket (pointing down) and the print bottom plate, so that they go through the gap in the optoswitch as the axis slides.<br />
# You now need to determine the limits of each axis. With the extruder/hotend installed, slide the X carriage left until the nozzle is 10mm to the right from the left edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that the opto/switch is engaged in this position. If your optoflag is too long, trim it until it just barely triggers the endstop when the nozzle is in this position. Tighten the nut on the X endstop, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Slide the print bottom plate backwards until the nozzle is about 42mm (equivalent is 1-21/32") in front of the front edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that it engages when the print bottom plate is in this position. Tighten the Y endstop nut, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the Z axis moves downwards. Do not worry about the height yet. You will need to adjust the position of this endstop once the bed is installed and leveled. <br />
# Decide where your electronics will live. Mount these in place first, that will allow you to route cables easier.<br />
# Slide the X carriage as far away from the electronics as possible.<br />
# Route the cables from each of the endstops along the frame to the electronics board. Plug each one into the appropriate connector. For the X endstop, leave enough slack in the cable to allow the X axis to move along the Z all the way up and down the frame. Make sure none of the wires interfere with the movement of the axes. Use zipties to fix the wires to the frame. <br />
# Splice the Z motor wires together in parallel. If the motors are identical, join each wire with the wire of the same color, and then attach them to the connector that matches your electronics. Route the wires along the frame to your electronics board, and attach them to the Z-driver connector. Use cable ties to fix the wires to the frame.<br />
# Attach the Y motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame (making sure they don't interfere with the Y-axis movement) and attach them to your electronics at the Y-driver connector. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Attach the X motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame and attach them to your electronics at the X-driver connector. Leave enough slack for the X-axis to move all the way up and down the Z axis without getting caught on the wires. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Leaving enough slack so that the wires don't get stretched even when the X carriage is furthest away from the electronics, route the extruder motor, heater, and thermistor wires along the frame, to the electronics. Keep careful track of which wire is which. Color-coding is recommended. If your wires are not different colors, attach labels to the ends. Attach connectors to the wires to match your electronics and plug them into your electronics board. The stepper connection goes into the EXTRUDER/E connector. Tie the cables down to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Move the X and Y axes all the way in each direction, and check that no wires interfere with movement. Once done, slide each axis to approximately the middle of its range.<br />
# Get a piece of paper, and write "X, Y, Z, E" on it.<br />
# Plug in the power and USB connections to the electronics. ''From this point on, if ANYTHING acts strange, switch off power first, and figure it out later. This is extremely important!''<br />
# Connect to the electronics from a computer using repsnapper, reprap host, or replicatorg.<br />
# Stand in front of the machine. In the software, tell the X axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves to the RIGHT, write "OK" under X on your paper. If it moves to the LEFT, write "REV" under X. If it does not move write "NO" under it.<br />
# Tell the Y axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves FORWARD (towards you), write "OK" under Y. If it moves BACKWARD (away from you), write "REV" under Y. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Y on your paper.<br />
# Tell the Z axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves UP, write "OK" under Z. If it moves DOWN, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Tell the extruder to move forward (positive). If it moves in the direction that would push filament into , the nozzle, write "OK" under Z. If it moves in the opposite direction, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Close the software and ''switch off the power to the machine!''<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "REV", unplug its connector from the electronics, turn it by 180 degrees, and plug it in again. If the connector is polarized (can only be plugged in one way), you might need to reconnect the wires to the connector.<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "NO", make sure its connector is wired to the motor, and the connector is seated properly.<br />
# Repeat the test until all axes are labeled "OK". Now tell the X and Y axes to home. They should move until they reach their endstops, then stop.<br />
<br />
=== Attaching the print bed ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 4 M3x40 bolts<br />
* 4 ballpoint pen springs<br />
* 8 M3 nuts (optionally nyloc)<br />
* 16 M3 washers<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>dQSLWYBepVA</videoflash><br />
# If you have a heated build platform, install it on the print top plate at this point. Cover your top plate or build platform with whatever your build surface material will be (Kapton, blue tape, etc.) <br />
# Put a washer on each of the four M3x40 bolts.<br />
# Thread each bolt through one of the holes in the print top plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer, a ballpoint pen spring, and another M3 washer onto each bolt.<br />
# Thread a nut onto each bolt to fasten it to the print top plate. Do not tighten. This nut is only there to hold the springs in place.<br />
# Carefully place the print top plate on top of the print bottom plate. Make sure each bolt goes through one of the holes in the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer and nut on the end of each of the bolts.<br />
# Level the bed. To do this, put a spirit level on top of the bed and adjust the nuts of each of the M3 bolts until the spirit level shows the bed is level. Use the top nut to adjust the height and the bottom nut to fix it. If you have a heated build platform, put the spirit level on the platform. Once done, tighten all nuts.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the nozzle is just barely above the bed. <br />
# You are now ready to print. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
=== Firmware modifications ===<br />
<br />
#Because the Z axis rods are directly driven, you need to alter your firmware to reflect this. For 5/16 rod lead screws you need to change the #define z_steps_per_mm to 1133.858 in 1/8 and 2267.716 with 1/16 stepping.<br />
<br />
== Media ==<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyVM3-v84I0 Two printers simultaneously] - Prusa and shaper cube working side by side.<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh3S9aOMRhU Prusa homing using enstops]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8c5fB9Ozek Prusa development overview]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MvUD-tuOX0 Prusa Y axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-pDYDnHYaQ Prusa Z axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNRapg2gaPg Early preview of the Prusa Mendel redesign]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/56020395@N06/sets/72157625420636778/show/ Fumon's Prusa build session 1] - D1plo1d building Fumon's Prusa Mendel at Hacklab.to. Should give a hint as to how the Prusa Mendel parts go together.<br />
<br />
== Prusa Improvements/Hacks ==<br />
* Rob's [[Auto-centering shaft coupler]] - designed to reduce shaft/motor vibrations (print 2/replaces 2x coupler). May require widening the openings on the z motor mounts to allow the rotation of the zip tie. Use a zip tie gun to get maximum compression on the coupling.<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[PLA bushings]]<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
* [http://prusadjs.cz/ Prusa's Blog]<br />
* [http://feeds.feedburner.com/Prusabuilders Prusa Builder Blog Feed]<br />
* [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel assembly photo gallery]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel&diff=29140Prusa Mendel2011-02-27T11:56:48Z<p>Prusajr: /* Tips for assembling Wade + Arcols hotend */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa Mendel<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of normal [[Mendel]].<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr (design), Kliment (maintenance and documentation)<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel Variations|Mendel Variations]][[Category:Mendel Variations]],<br />
}}<br />
<br />
Also see [[SAE Prusa Mendel]] if you are building this machine using SAE (Imperial) Fasterers<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of the original [[Mendel]]. I wanted to use bushings instead of regular bearings. The current version uses three 608 bearings in total, one for the X and two for the Y axis. The 624 bearings are gone altogether.<br />
I have the entire machine up and running, with my printed PLA bushings. It's pretty smooth.<br />
<br/><br />
__TOC__<br />
<div style="clear:both"></div><br />
<videoflash>tyVM3-v84I0</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel<br />
<br />
You can follow the changes on [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/commits/master Changelog]<br />
<br />
You can sign up for github for free and fork the project to begin working on it.<br />
<br />
=== History ===<br />
* http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-pla-bushings.html<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials ==<br />
<br />
=== Printed Parts ===<br />
2x coupling RP<br />
3x endstop-holder RP<br />
1x x-carriage RP<br />
1x x-end-idler RP<br />
1x x-end-motor RP<br />
1x y-motor-bracket RP<br />
2x z-motor-mount RP<br />
4x belt-clamp RP<br />
8x bar-clamp RP<br />
2x rod-clamp RP<br />
2x pulley RP<br />
AND EITHER<br />
6x frame-vertex RP<br />
OR<br />
4x frame-vertex with foot RP<br />
2x frame-vertex RP<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Printed Bushings ====<br />
12x pla-bushing RP-PLA (check your build file, the file makes either 4 or 12.)<br />
<br />
=== Non-Printed Parts ("vitamins") ===<br />
(necessary)<br />
83x M8 nut Fastener (buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side. These are useful)<br />
93x M8 washer Fastener (again, buy a 100-pack.)<br />
2x M4x20 bolt Fastener<br />
2x M4 nut Fastener<br />
2x M4 washer Fastener<br />
22x M3x10 bolt Fastener<br />
16x M3x25 bolt Fastener<br />
4x M3x40 bolt Fastener<br />
70x M3 washer Fastener<br />
40x M3 nut (8 optionally nyloc) Fastener<br />
2x M3 grub screw (or M3x10 bolt) Fastener<br />
6x M8x30 Mudguard/fender washers Fastener<br />
3x 608 Bearing Bearings<br />
4x Ballpoint pen springs Spring<br />
6x M8x370mm side Threaded rod<br />
4x M8x294mm front/rear Threaded rod <br />
3x M8x440mm top/bottom Threaded rod<br />
2x M8x210mm Z-leadscrew Threaded rod<br />
1x M8x50mm threaded rod or bolt for X idler Threaded rod<br />
2x 8mmx495mm X-bar Smooth rod --Seems too long on my build, maybe 425 or 430? [[http://reprap.org/wiki/User:Bryanandaimee -Bryan]]<br />
2x 8mmx406mm Y-bar Smooth rod<br />
2x 8mmx350mm Z-bar Smooth rod<br />
1x 225mmx225mm print top plate Thick Sheet<br />
1x 140mmx225mm print bottom plate. Thick Sheet<br />
1x 840mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
1x 1380mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
5x Nema 17 bipolar NEMA Stepper<br />
50x Small cable binder/ziptie Misc.<br />
1x [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] (or any other compatible extruder)<br />
1x Electronics + endstops. This can be [[RAMPS]],[[Pololu Electronics]],[[Generation_6_Electronics|Gen6]],[[Generation_3_Electronics|Gen3]],or anything else compatible<br />
(optional)<br />
3x 30mmx10mm Optoflags (if using opto endstops) Thin, stiff, opaque sheet<br />
2x 8mm ID spring Spring<br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. <br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. <br />
(You can combine the latter two by having a piece of thick sheet with dimensions 290x234. Make sure to mark which side is which.)<br />
<br />
When cutting the threaded rods from 1m lengths, you will need 6x 1m pieces (or 5x 1m pieces and 1x 50cm piece). Cut them as follows:<br />
Rod 1: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm (the last piece will turn up somewhat shorter than 50mm. Use it for your idler)<br />
Rod 2: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm<br />
Rod 3: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 4: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 5: 440mm, 440mm, ~120mm<br />
Rod 6: 440mm<br />
<br />
(The Prusa Mendel uses the 4 drivers in the standard Mendel electronics package to drive 5 motors by using "two steppers wired in parallel to one driver"[http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-y-and-z-axes.html]).<br />
<br />
=== Buy the Non-Printed parts (vitamins) ===<br />
<br />
Hardware sets are available in [[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#Electrical_and_mechanical_kits_and_parts]]<br />
<br />
== Printing the Parts ==<br />
[[File:Prusa.jpg|right|thumbnail|300px|A printed set of Prusa Mendel parts]]<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a Mendel ===<br />
An easier option then individually printing each part if you are printing Prusa on a RepRap Mendel is the pre-assembled build file containing the Prusa parts. With this option you only need to print the Mendel plate and the PLA bushings to get a complete Prusa Mendel:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mendelplate.stl Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/pla-bushing.stl PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
SAE versions:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mendelplate.stl SAE Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/pla-bushing.stl SAE PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]] ===<br />
There are also pre-assembled build files available to fit your [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]]'s build area (download using right click => save as)<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' <br />
* These plates are 85x95mm in size. <br />
<br />
Plates for the MakerBot (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate1.stl Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate2.stl Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate3.stl Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate4.stl Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate5.stl Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
SAE versions: (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate1.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate2.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate3.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate4.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate5.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on anything else ===<br />
Last but not least, if you have a machine that doesn't fit into any of the previous options all the .stl files necessary to print a Prusa Mendel are available on the [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel PrusaMendel Github] where you can download them and print them individually.<br />
<br />
=== Buy the printed parts ===<br />
[[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#RepRapped_Parts_Kits]]<br />
<br />
== Assembly ==<br />
<br />
For the visually oriented, have a look at this [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel photo gallery] of an ongoing Mendel Prusa build.<br />
<br />
===Assembling the frame vertex triangles (2x)===<br />
Notes:<br />
*Heating the flat side of a bushing with a hair dryer or heat gun before snapping onto the smooth bar can keep it from snapping.<br />
<br />
This part takes 15 minutes per triangle to assemble, for a total of 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
There is a triangle on each side of the Prusa RepRap, you will need to make 2 of these and then connect them together (see next step) to form the Prusa frame. Each side is an equilateral triangle with a frame vertex on each corner. You can use either footed or non-footed vertices to build this (the footed ones look better, but are not critical.) The instructions assume you are using footed vertices.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required (per triangle)'''<br />
* 2 RP footed frame vertices<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP frame vertex (non-footed)<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP bar clamp<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 3 370mm M8 threaded rods<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>-PFy4KhW9gE</videoflash><br />
# Take one of the 370mm threaded rods, and slip an M8 washer onto the middle of it.<br />
# Take the RP bar clamp (the U-shaped bit with the two holes) and slide the threaded rod through the two holes until the clamp sits next to the washer.<br />
# Slide another washer onto the rod from the other side.<br />
# Thread two M8 nuts onto either side of the clamp, until they are next to the washer, but do not tighten them yet.<br />
# Thread another two nuts on each side of the rod, followed by washers. See the picture for what it should look like. <flickr>5188262096|thumb|right|m|The bar clamp on the threaded rod.</flickr><br />
# Slide the rod through the long bottom (footed) side of two vertices. Make sure the feet point in the same direction. Also make sure the bulge on the non-footed side of the vertex points outwards.<br />
# Measure the distance. The distance between the two vertices should be 290mm (along the rod, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Get it approximately right now, we will check this again later. If you have a frame jig, place it between the two vertices and adjust the nuts until you can just barely fit the jig J1 between them.<br />
# Place another washer and nut on the other side of the vertex. Tighten, but not too much. We'll need a bit of flexibility here still.<br />
# Take another 370mm M8 threaded rod and place a nut followed by a washer at each end.<br />
# Place one end of the threaded rod into the one of the two footed frame vertices. It should be in the same plane as the first threaded rod. fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have two sides of the equilateral triangle.<br />
# Take the third piece of threaded rod and put a nut and washer on each end. Place it in the other footed vertex and fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have a triangle of threaded rods with two footed vertices on two of the corners, nothing in the third corner, and a bar clamp between the two vertices.<br />
# Take the third vertex (non-footed) and slide it onto the threaded rods in the final corner of the triangle. Measure the lenghts of the three sides to make sure they are all 290mm long (along the rod from plastic part to plastic part, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Adjust the nuts to make sure this is so. Use the frame jig J1 if you have one. Once done, place a washer and nut on the top of the vertex. Tighten all the outer nuts. <br />
<flickr>5188259098|thumb|right|m|The finished frame triangle </flickr><br />
# You should now have a sturdy triangle with equal-length sides, two feet on the bottom, and a bar clamp between the feet. Adjust the nuts around the bar clamp (but do not crush the bar clamp together yet) until it's approximately in the middle of the rod. Leave the nuts there loose. See photo for what you should have at this point.<br />
# That's it, that's one of the triangles done. Repeat the entire procedure for the second triangle. It is exactly identical to the first.<br />
<br />
Now we need to connect the 2 frame triangles to form the Prusa RepRap frame.<br />
<br />
The easiest way to do this is to thread everything onto the front and rear threaded rods and attach those to the triangles first, and then thread the top rods through. That's what the instructions below assume you are doing.<br />
<br style="clear:both"/><br />
<br />
=== Assembling the front threaded rods ===<br />
This step takes about 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the front/bottom vertex of each triangle as well as the y-stage bars and y motor mount to the frame.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP y motor bracket<br />
[[File:pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 18 M8 nuts<br />
* 20 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>9ut45Pe9gkw</videoflash><br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Thread an M8 nut onto the middle of the rod. Slide an M8 washer next to it. <br />
# Thread the rod through the bottom hole of the RP y-motor-bracket. The bottom hole of the bracket is the long, straight side.<flickr>5373622677|thumb|right|m|The long, straight side of the RP Y motor bracket will be parallel to ground when you are all done.</flickr><br />
# Slide another washer onto the other side of the rod and add another M8 nut to hold it in place.<br />
# Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, the y-motor-bracket (with the pointy bit pointed towards you),1 washer, 1 nut, 2 washers, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# When you hold it with the bigger part (with the circular hole) of the motor bracket ''towards you'', it should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:front-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# You can now attach this setup to the triangle sides. Make sure the bigger part of the motor bracket points '''OUT''' of the triangle. Thread the ends of the rods through two of the footed vertices. Put a washer and nut on the end of each threaded rod.<br />
It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:front-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the rear threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 20 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the back/bottom vertex of the 2 triangles together as well as the y-stage bars and belt pulley.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>LfjWQKbxPGI</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>Pern6akmEn4</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is again a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# It should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:rear-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# Attach the two rods to the two remaining footed vertices. Thread each end of the rod through the vertex, and add a washer and nut. It should now look like this: <br/> [[File:rear-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
Your frame should now be standing on its own feet without support, but the tops sides of the triangles will still be wobbly. We'll fix that next.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the top threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
These connect the 2 frame triangles at their tops as well as providing mounts for the z-axis motors.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled and connected frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP z motor mounts<br />
[[File:pm-z-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 12 M8 nuts<br />
* 16 M8 washers<br />
* 2 440mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>HI77eGBl4gU</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Slide one of the threaded rods through one side of one of the top vertices. Put a washer, two nuts, and another washer on the part of the rod between the top vertices. This is what it should look like when seen from above: <br/> [[File:top-step1.png|center]]<br />
# Repeat for the other rod. It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:top-step2.png|center]]<br />
# Slide the rods through the opposite side vertex. Thread the nuts up to the vertices on each side.<br />
# To each of the four ends of the threaded rod, add a washer, a nut and another washer. Your setup should now look like this: <br/>[[File:top-step3.png|center]]<br />
# Take one of the RP z motor mounts and attach it to the ends of the threaded rod. The side with the two holes and the indentation should point towards the ''outside''. Add a washer and nut to the end of each rod.<br />
# Repeat this on the other side. The top of the machine should now look like this: <br/> [[File:top.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Tightening the frame ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Now that the frame is fully assembled we can adjust and tighten each of its threaded rods. You will need your frame jigs if you have them, or a reasonably precise length measurement tool.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 M8 nuts<br />
* 4 M8 washers<br />
* 1 440mm threaded rod<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. This is your frame jig J2.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>jwvujYvElhM</videoflash><br />
# Verify that the triangle vertices have distance J1 (290mm, equivalent is 11-13/32") from plastic to plastic along each of the three sides. Once you are sure of this, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firmly attached and unable to move, but do not crush the plastic parts.<br />
# Adjust each of the bottom rods until it has distance J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") between the inside ends of the vertices. Use frame jig J2 to check this if you have it. Once you are sure this is true, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firm, but do not crush the plastic.<br />
# Adjust the top of the frame so that the distance between the inside ends of the vertices is precisely J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") and the length of rod outside the vertex on one side is the same as the length outside the vertex on the other side. Double-check the distances before tightening the nut on the outside of the vertex.<br />
# The frame should now be fairly stable. Using a plumb line or similar (for example a nut hanging on a length of yarn), adjust the bar clamps on the bottom side of each triangle until they are close to center of the top vertices. Do not tighten the nuts either side of the bar clamps yet. These need to space the 440 mm rod exactly 1 bar clamp from the center line of the bot. This is so the polished z-rods are exactly centered with the bot and run perfectly vertical.<br />
# Insert the 440mm threaded rod through the two bar clamps on the bottom of the frame. make sure the new rod is on ''top'' of the triangle bottom rod. Adjust it so that the same length sticks out on each side.<br />
# On each side, place a nut, washer, bar clamp (threaded through the holes), washer, and another nut. The hole to which should go the z-running smooth rod should be virtually in center of bottom triangle rods. The setup should look like this when seen from below:<br />
<br/> [[File:bottom-rod.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the y axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 225x140mm print bottom plate<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 2 406mm smooth rods<br />
* 1 y timing belt<br />
* 1 NEMA 17 stepper motor<br />
* 1 pulley<br />
* 3 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 4 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>A46NKyBos_8</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>7ZBNewV_CWw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Mark each of the four corners of the print bottom plate 8mm (equivalent is ~5/16") from each side with the marker.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole in each of the four corners.<br />
# Clamp the print bottom plate and the print top plate together, so that the bottom plate is equally far from each edge of the top plate. Drill 3mm holes into the top plate through the corner holes in the bottom plate so that they match on both plates.<br />
# Slide the two 406mm smooth rods through the bar clamps on the front and rear threaded rods. They should fit <br />
snugly and be approximately parallel. <br />
# Place the narrow side of the "print bottom" plate between the rods. This ensures they are exactly 140mm (equivalent is 5-33/64") apart from each other. Adjust the nuts on the front side bar clamps until the print bottom plate just barely fits between the rods. Try to get them at an approximately equal distance from the middle of the rod. <br />
# Tighten the front nuts just enough that they do not move on their own, but no further.<br />
# Measure the distance from the left front vertex to the left smooth rod. Adjust the distance from the left rear vertex to the left smooth rod to match it. This ensures the left rod is parallel to the frame. Tighten the nuts on the left clamp just enough that they do not move around.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate next to the left smooth rod on the rear side. Adjust the right rear bar clamp's nuts until the narrow side of the bottom plate barely fits between the rods.<br />
# Recheck the distances from the left vertex to the left rod are the same at the front and rear and that the short side of the print bottom plate fits snugly between the smooth rods both at the front and at the rear. This should ensure that the rods are parallel to each other and to the frame. Use the diagram below to see what it should look like from above. <br/> [[File:y-rods.png|center]]<br />
# Tighten the nuts on all of the four bar clamps now.<br />
# Snap 2 PLA bushings onto each of the two smooth rods. Place them about 120mm apart on each rod. Make sure they slide freely on the rods. Put a dab of glue on the top side of the bushings (the side opposite the open side). Carefully place the print bottom plate on top of the bushings, so that it's equally far apart from each of the two triangles (see diagram below). Wait for the glue to dry. <br/> [[File:y-plate.png|center]]<br />
# While the glue is drying, adjust the bearing on the rear threaded rod until it is exactly across from the front threaded rod. Tighten the nuts on the y motor bracket and the bearings at this point. All nuts on the front and rear rods should now be tight.<br />
# Also while the glue is drying, ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel in the pulley that goes to the center hole.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Place the motor with the pulley on it next to the mounting holes in the y motor bracket. Position the motor the left, so that the pulley ends up on the side of the bearing.<br />
# Adjust the pulley position on the shaft so that when the motor is flush with the bracket, the teeth on the pulley are approximately at the position of the bearing.<br />
# Fasten the motor with 3 M3x10 bolts. Put a washer between each bolt and the y motor bracket.<br />
# Tighten the grub screw so that the pulley cannot move along the shaft.<br />
# Position the y belt on top of the print bottom plate and through both of the bearings. Pull lightly on both ends so that it is straight. If the belt is not straight, adjust the position of the rear bearing until it is. Use a marker to mark out the position of the belt on the print bottom plate. Also mark which side of the plate is on the left.<br />
# ''After the glue has dried,'' carefully pop the print bottom plate with the PLA bushings off the rails. Place the two belt clamps perpendicular to the marked position of the belt, several centimeters apart. Make sure the belt position is between the two holes on each clamp. Use a marker to mark where the holes of the belt clamps would be on the plate.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole through each of the four marked belt clamp holes.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate back on the smooth rods, paying attention to the marking to make sure the correct side is on the left.<br />
# Place one end of the belt, toothed side down, where the holes for the front belt clamp are. Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in one of the belt clamps. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt. Leave several centimeters of the belt behind the clamp.<br />
# Put two M3 nuts underneath the plate and thread them onto the bolts. Tighten both nuts so that the end of the belt is firmly attached to the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Pass the belt over the front bearing, around the motor pulley, and then up underneath the plate to the other bearing. Pull it tight, then lay it on top of the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in the second belt clamp. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt.<br />
# Attach an M3 nut to each of the two bolts, and pull the belt tight before tightening the two nuts.<br />
# Turn the motor by hand. It should turn with little effort, and each slight rotation should be matched by a slight movement of the plate. Make sure it slides smoothly along the entire length of the rods. Pushing the plate should immediately make the motor turn. Make sure the belt is not too loose (plate and motor should not be able to move independently) or too tight (taking a lot of effort to move the plate). Once you are confident your belt tension is correct, tighten the clamps very firmly. You may now trim the belt, but leave several centimeters behind each clamp for future adjustment.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the x axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-end-motor<br />
[[File:pm-x-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP x-end-idler<br />
[[File:pm-x-idler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 495mm smooth rods<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 50mm M8 threaded rod<br />
* 3 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8 nuts<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>K9bXwOZOXps</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Drill out the center hole in the hexagonal section of the x-end-idler and x-end-motor parts to 8mm.<br />
# Take the x-end-idler. Check the size of the hole on the flat, thin side surface. If it is 4mm in diameter, enlarge it using a file until it's 8mm in diameter.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps in the long channels on the bottom of the x-end-idler. You may find pulling them into the nut trap using an M3 bolt makes it easier. Thread M3x10 bolts through them, but just far enough that they do not fall out.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps of the x-end-motor part as well. Thread M3x10 bolts through those as above.<br />
# Place the x-end-motor and x-end-idler 50cm apart, so that the hexagonal parts are facing each other.<br />
# Slide the two 495mm smooth rods into the x-end idler. Make sure they go past the nut traps.<br />
# Slide the other ends of the rods into x-end-motor. Make sure they go past the nut traps. The hexagonal sections of the motor and idler should still be facing each other.<br />
# Tighten the M3 bolts on the x-end-idler. The x-end-motor should be able to move along the rods with minor effort. Do ''not'' tighten the x-end-motor bolts yet.<br />
# Thread an M8 nut onto one end of the 50mm threaded rod. (Alternatively, you can use an M8x50 bolt)<br />
# Put the following parts in this order onto the free end of the threaded rod (behind the nut): 1 fender washer, 1 M8 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 M8 washer, 1 fender washer.<br />
# Thread the free end of the threaded rod into the side of the x-end-idler. The bearing should be on the outside. Put an M8 washer and an M8 nut on the inside and tighten both nuts.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the z axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP shaft couplers<br />
[[File:pm-coupler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP rod-clamp<br />
[[File:pm-rod-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x axis assembly (from the previous step)<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 20 M3 washers<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 8 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors<br />
* 2 210mm threaded rods <br />
* 2 330mm smooth rods<br />
* 4 M8 nuts (2 optional)<br />
* 2 8.5mm ID springs (optional)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>v_W7WPdQ3Qo</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>bCK1W3SE1Xs</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Use a spirit level to make sure the two rods at the top of the frame are horizontal. If they are not, stack bits of paper under the vertices at the bottom until they are.<br />
# Drop a plumb line (or a nut tied to a length of yarn) directly down from the indentation on the side of the left z-motor-holder. Adjust the two bar clamps at the bottom of the frame on the left side until the nut falls into the U of the outer clamp. Repeat on the other side.<br />
# Put M3 nuts into the nut traps on both z-motor-holder ends.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on 2 M3x25 bolts and thread them into the flat (non-indented) end of a rod-clamp. Attach the rod-clamp to one of the z-motor-holders. Do not tighten.<br />
# Repeat for the other z-motor-holder and rod-clamp.<br />
# Insert a 330mm smooth rod into the space between each z-motor-holder and rod-clamp. Slide it in from the top. On the bottom, insert it into the U of the bottom bar clamp.<br />
# Using the plumb line, check that the smooth rods are vertical. If they are not, adjust the bottom bar clamp positions until they are. This is critical, so take as much time as you need.<br />
# Tighten the nuts on the bar clamps and the bolts on the rod clamps. Check again with the plumb line.<br />
# Place two PLA bushings on each of the smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Position the x-axis assembly inside the frame so that the bushing channels on the x-axis-motor and x-axis-idler align with the bushings. The x-end-idler should be on the right, with the bearing on the rear side of the machine.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Push the rectangular channels of x-end-idler and x-end-motor against the flat of the bushings. Position the x-end-idler against the bushings on the right side of the machine and then slide the x-end-motor along the x-axis smooth rods until it makes contact with the bushings on the left side of the machine. Let the glue dry.<br />
# While the glue is drying, assemble the couplings. Insert an M3x25 bolt, with an M3 washer, through each of the two side holes on each coupling. Put an M3 washer and M3 nut on the other end. Do not tighten yet.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried'', slide the X axis to the top of the Z axis smooth rod, and place some kind of support underneath the x-axis smooth rods to hold it up in approximately the middle of the frame. Tighten the M3x10 screws on the bottom of the x-end-motor.<br />
#Slide X axis to the bottom of the Z axis smooth rod, if you feel the bushings binding, jog the bar clamps on both sides of the Z axis untill the bushings can travel the full length of the Z rod with no resistance.<br />
# Insert an M8 nut into the bottom of the hexagonal channel of x-end-motor. Repeat for x-end-idler.<br />
# ''(optional)'' Insert a spring into the top of the hexagonal channel of each x-end part. Insert an M8 nut on top of each spring.<br />
# Thread one end of the 210mm threaded rods into each hexagonal channel from above, compressing the top nut and spring if you have them. The threaded rod should turn freely in each channel, and the nuts should stay snugly in place. Turn the rods until about half their length sticks out from the bottom of the parts.<br />
# Place a NEMA 17 motor into each of the two z-motor-holder parts, shaft down. You may ''optionally'' fasten them from underneath with M3x10 bolts and M3 washers.<br />
# Attach the narrower end of a coupling to each of the motor shafts. Do not tighten the nuts on the coupling yet.<br />
# Turn the 210mm threaded rods so that they go upwards and enter the coupling. Screw them as far into the coupling as they will go, but do not use excessive force.<br />
# Carefully tighten the M3 nuts on both couplings.<br />
# Turn both threaded rods so that the x axis moves up. Make sure the couplings are supporting the weight.<br />
# Place a spirit level on the x-axis smooth rods. Turn the threaded rod on one side only until the x axis is level. Your Z axis is ready.<br />
<br />
=== Installing the x carriage ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-carriage<br />
[[File:pm-x-cariage.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP pulley<br />
[[File:pm-pulley.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x belt<br />
* 2 M4 nuts<br />
* 5 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
* 4 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 1 Extruder<br />
* 1 NEMA17 stepper motor<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>NjowDqytHJQ</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>ahg42Vu4VLw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel on the side of the pulley rim.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Slide the pulley onto the motor shaft so that the rim comes onto the shaft last. Leave 1mm or so of shaft between the pulley and the motor body. Tighten the grub screw.<br />
# Insert the motor into the x-end-motor part so that the motor body is on the front of the machine and the pulley points towards the rear. The pulley teeth and the idler on the opposite side of the X axis should be aligned.<br />
# Fasten the motor using 4 M3x10 bolts and 4 M3 washers. The motor body should now be on top of the x-axis smooth rods.<br />
# Place 4 PLA bushings on the x-axis smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Place the x-carriage on top of the bushings, making sure they fit into the channels. The protruding part of the x-carriage with the four nut traps should be on the side of the pulley and idler, pointing towards the rear of the machine.<br />
# Wait for the glue to dry.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried,'' make sure the carriage can slide along the rods freely from end to end. Turn the entire frame around so that the rear of the machine faces towards you.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on each of two M3x25 bolts. Thread them through the holes of one belt-clamp. Repeat for the second belt-clamp.<br />
# Loosely attach one of the belt clamps to the carriage. Thread the two bolts through the holes in the carriage and attach nuts to them. Make sure there is enough space for the belt to slide between the clamp and the carriage. Repeat for the other clamp.<br />
# Slide one end of the belt through the left clamp, toothed side up. Pull several centimeters through, then tighten the clamp.<br />
# Run the belt over the 608 bearing and the motor pulley, then thread it through the other clamp, toothed side up. The belt should now form an elongated loop with the teeth on the inside of the loop. Pull the belt tight and tighten the second clamp.<br />
# Verify that the belt tension is right. Turning the motor pulley by hand should make the carriage move. The carriage should move freely along the entire length of the axis.<br />
# Use two M4x20 bolts and two M4 nuts to mount the extruder to the x-carriage.<br />
<br />
====Tips for assembling Wade + Arcols hotend====<br />
#DON'T MOUNT THE MOTOR AND THE BIG GEAR. Wait till its written here in tips.<br />
#Look at Wade assembly manual [http://reprap.org/wiki/Wade's_Geared_Extruder]<br />
#Prepare big wheel with hobbed bolt. Test with filament in fillament path if it matches the hobbet part of wade bolt. Prepare pulley on motor.<br />
#Assemble the long bolts for idler and the bearings. Check how bolts is lining the filament path and other stuff.<br />
#Mount the hotend to the Wade. <br />
#Mount the Wade to the x-carriage.<br />
#Assemble the motor to Wade. Dont use washer on two bolts nearer to the. Preferably use low profile screws. Also dont tighten these two screw too much, you can later slide the motor without taking out the big gear.<br />
#Add the hobbed bolt with gear.<br />
#Add the idler.<br />
<br />
=== Wiring the electronics ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 Electronics setup (Pololu, Ramps, Gen3, Gen6, or anything else compatible)<br />
* 3 endstops<br />
* 3 RP endstop holders<br />
* 3 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 6 M3 washers<br />
* 3 M3 nuts<br />
* A lot of cable ties<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
Electronics assembly.<br />
<videoflash>UHBDstsSJj0</videoflash><br />
<br />
# There are various electronics configurations out there, but thay are mostly compatible. Regardless of what electronics you have, you should have at least three stepper drivers, ideally four. Those are either integrated on the board or separate modules. Identify the motor connections for X, Y, Z and the extruder stepper (E on some setups). Also identify the connections for the heated bed (if you have one), the extruder heater connection, the extruder and heated bed thermistors, and the X, Y and Z MIN endstop connections.<br />
# Screw or glue your endstops (opto or microswitch) to the long side of the three endstop holders.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, you will need to make three opto flags. These are long, thin strips of some easily formable, opaque material, for example metal sheet from drink cans. If you are using microswitch endstops, you can skip this step. Take an empty drink can and cut three 10mmx30mm pieces from from it. These will be your optoflags.<br />
# Position your endstops on the smooth rods. Facing the front of the machine, place one on the left z smooth rod below where the x axis currently is. This is your Place one on the far left of the rear x axis smooth rod. Place the third one on the right y axis smooth rod behind the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on an M3x25 bolt and thread it through each endstop holder, and put a washer and M3 nut on the other side. Do not tighten these nuts yet.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, glue an optoflag onto the left side of the x-carriage, the bottom of the x-motor-bracket (pointing down) and the print bottom plate, so that they go through the gap in the optoswitch as the axis slides.<br />
# You now need to determine the limits of each axis. With the extruder/hotend installed, slide the X carriage left until the nozzle is 10mm to the right from the left edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that the opto/switch is engaged in this position. If your optoflag is too long, trim it until it just barely triggers the endstop when the nozzle is in this position. Tighten the nut on the X endstop, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Slide the print bottom plate backwards until the nozzle is about 42mm (equivalent is 1-21/32") in front of the front edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that it engages when the print bottom plate is in this position. Tighten the Y endstop nut, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the Z axis moves downwards. Do not worry about the height yet. You will need to adjust the position of this endstop once the bed is installed and leveled. <br />
# Decide where your electronics will live. Mount these in place first, that will allow you to route cables easier.<br />
# Slide the X carriage as far away from the electronics as possible.<br />
# Route the cables from each of the endstops along the frame to the electronics board. Plug each one into the appropriate connector. For the X endstop, leave enough slack in the cable to allow the X axis to move along the Z all the way up and down the frame. Make sure none of the wires interfere with the movement of the axes. Use zipties to fix the wires to the frame. <br />
# Splice the Z motor wires together in parallel. If the motors are identical, join each wire with the wire of the same color, and then attach them to the connector that matches your electronics. Route the wires along the frame to your electronics board, and attach them to the Z-driver connector. Use cable ties to fix the wires to the frame.<br />
# Attach the Y motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame (making sure they don't interfere with the Y-axis movement) and attach them to your electronics at the Y-driver connector. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Attach the X motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame and attach them to your electronics at the X-driver connector. Leave enough slack for the X-axis to move all the way up and down the Z axis without getting caught on the wires. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Leaving enough slack so that the wires don't get stretched even when the X carriage is furthest away from the electronics, route the extruder motor, heater, and thermistor wires along the frame, to the electronics. Keep careful track of which wire is which. Color-coding is recommended. If your wires are not different colors, attach labels to the ends. Attach connectors to the wires to match your electronics and plug them into your electronics board. The stepper connection goes into the EXTRUDER/E connector. Tie the cables down to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Move the X and Y axes all the way in each direction, and check that no wires interfere with movement. Once done, slide each axis to approximately the middle of its range.<br />
# Get a piece of paper, and write "X, Y, Z, E" on it.<br />
# Plug in the power and USB connections to the electronics. ''From this point on, if ANYTHING acts strange, switch off power first, and figure it out later. This is extremely important!''<br />
# Connect to the electronics from a computer using repsnapper, reprap host, or replicatorg.<br />
# Stand in front of the machine. In the software, tell the X axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves to the RIGHT, write "OK" under X on your paper. If it moves to the LEFT, write "REV" under X. If it does not move write "NO" under it.<br />
# Tell the Y axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves FORWARD (towards you), write "OK" under Y. If it moves BACKWARD (away from you), write "REV" under Y. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Y on your paper.<br />
# Tell the Z axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves UP, write "OK" under Z. If it moves DOWN, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Tell the extruder to move forward (positive). If it moves in the direction that would push filament into , the nozzle, write "OK" under Z. If it moves in the opposite direction, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Close the software and ''switch off the power to the machine!''<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "REV", unplug its connector from the electronics, turn it by 180 degrees, and plug it in again. If the connector is polarized (can only be plugged in one way), you might need to reconnect the wires to the connector.<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "NO", make sure its connector is wired to the motor, and the connector is seated properly.<br />
# Repeat the test until all axes are labeled "OK". Now tell the X and Y axes to home. They should move until they reach their endstops, then stop.<br />
<br />
=== Attaching the print bed ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 4 M3x40 bolts<br />
* 4 ballpoint pen springs<br />
* 8 M3 nuts (optionally nyloc)<br />
* 16 M3 washers<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>dQSLWYBepVA</videoflash><br />
# If you have a heated build platform, install it on the print top plate at this point. Cover your top plate or build platform with whatever your build surface material will be (Kapton, blue tape, etc.) <br />
# Put a washer on each of the four M3x40 bolts.<br />
# Thread each bolt through one of the holes in the print top plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer, a ballpoint pen spring, and another M3 washer onto each bolt.<br />
# Thread a nut onto each bolt to fasten it to the print top plate. Do not tighten. This nut is only there to hold the springs in place.<br />
# Carefully place the print top plate on top of the print bottom plate. Make sure each bolt goes through one of the holes in the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer and nut on the end of each of the bolts.<br />
# Level the bed. To do this, put a spirit level on top of the bed and adjust the nuts of each of the M3 bolts until the spirit level shows the bed is level. Use the top nut to adjust the height and the bottom nut to fix it. If you have a heated build platform, put the spirit level on the platform. Once done, tighten all nuts.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the nozzle is just barely above the bed. <br />
# You are now ready to print. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
=== Firmware modifications ===<br />
<br />
#Because the Z axis rods are directly driven, you need to alter your firmware to reflect this. For 5/16 rod lead screws you need to change the #define z_steps_per_mm to 1133.858 in 1/8 and 2267.716 with 1/16 stepping.<br />
<br />
== Media ==<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyVM3-v84I0 Two printers simultaneously] - Prusa and shaper cube working side by side.<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh3S9aOMRhU Prusa homing using enstops]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8c5fB9Ozek Prusa development overview]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MvUD-tuOX0 Prusa Y axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-pDYDnHYaQ Prusa Z axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNRapg2gaPg Early preview of the Prusa Mendel redesign]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/56020395@N06/sets/72157625420636778/show/ Fumon's Prusa build session 1] - D1plo1d building Fumon's Prusa Mendel at Hacklab.to. Should give a hint as to how the Prusa Mendel parts go together.<br />
<br />
== Prusa Improvements/Hacks ==<br />
* Rob's [[Auto-centering shaft coupler]] - designed to reduce shaft/motor vibrations (print 2/replaces 2x coupler). May require widening the openings on the z motor mounts to allow the rotation of the zip tie. Use a zip tie gun to get maximum compression on the coupling.<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[PLA bushings]]<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
* [http://prusadjs.cz/ Prusa's Blog]<br />
* [http://feeds.feedburner.com/Prusabuilders Prusa Builder Blog Feed]<br />
* [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel assembly photo gallery]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel&diff=29131Prusa Mendel2011-02-26T17:57:29Z<p>Prusajr: /* Installing the x carriage */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa Mendel<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of normal [[Mendel]].<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr (design), Kliment (maintenance and documentation)<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel Variations|Mendel Variations]][[Category:Mendel Variations]],<br />
}}<br />
<br />
Also see [[SAE Prusa Mendel]] if you are building this machine using SAE (Imperial) Fasterers<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of the original [[Mendel]]. I wanted to use bushings instead of regular bearings. The current version uses three 608 bearings in total, one for the X and two for the Y axis. The 624 bearings are gone altogether.<br />
I have the entire machine up and running, with my printed PLA bushings. It's pretty smooth.<br />
<br/><br />
__TOC__<br />
<div style="clear:both"></div><br />
<videoflash>tyVM3-v84I0</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel<br />
<br />
You can follow the changes on [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/commits/master Changelog]<br />
<br />
You can sign up for github for free and fork the project to begin working on it.<br />
<br />
=== History ===<br />
* http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-pla-bushings.html<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials ==<br />
<br />
=== Printed Parts ===<br />
2x coupling RP<br />
3x endstop-holder RP<br />
1x x-carriage RP<br />
1x x-end-idler RP<br />
1x x-end-motor RP<br />
1x y-motor-bracket RP<br />
2x z-motor-mount RP<br />
4x belt-clamp RP<br />
8x bar-clamp RP<br />
2x rod-clamp RP<br />
2x pulley RP<br />
AND EITHER<br />
6x frame-vertex RP<br />
OR<br />
4x frame-vertex with foot RP<br />
2x frame-vertex RP<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Printed Bushings ====<br />
12x pla-bushing RP-PLA (check your build file, the file makes either 4 or 12.)<br />
<br />
=== Non-Printed Parts ("vitamins") ===<br />
(necessary)<br />
83x M8 nut Fastener (buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side. These are useful)<br />
93x M8 washer Fastener (again, buy a 100-pack.)<br />
2x M4x20 bolt Fastener<br />
2x M4 nut Fastener<br />
2x M4 washer Fastener<br />
22x M3x10 bolt Fastener<br />
16x M3x25 bolt Fastener<br />
4x M3x40 bolt Fastener<br />
70x M3 washer Fastener<br />
40x M3 nut (8 optionally nyloc) Fastener<br />
2x M3 grub screw (or M3x10 bolt) Fastener<br />
6x M8x30 Mudguard/fender washers Fastener<br />
3x 608 Bearing Bearings<br />
4x Ballpoint pen springs Spring<br />
6x M8x370mm side Threaded rod<br />
4x M8x294mm front/rear Threaded rod <br />
3x M8x440mm top/bottom Threaded rod<br />
2x M8x210mm Z-leadscrew Threaded rod<br />
1x M8x50mm threaded rod or bolt for X idler Threaded rod<br />
2x 8mmx495mm X-bar Smooth rod --Seems too long on my build, maybe 425 or 430? [[http://reprap.org/wiki/User:Bryanandaimee -Bryan]]<br />
2x 8mmx406mm Y-bar Smooth rod<br />
2x 8mmx350mm Z-bar Smooth rod<br />
1x 225mmx225mm print top plate Thick Sheet<br />
1x 140mmx225mm print bottom plate. Thick Sheet<br />
1x 840mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
1x 1380mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
5x Nema 17 bipolar NEMA Stepper<br />
50x Small cable binder/ziptie Misc.<br />
1x [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] (or any other compatible extruder)<br />
1x Electronics + endstops. This can be [[RAMPS]],[[Pololu Electronics]],[[Generation_6_Electronics|Gen6]],[[Generation_3_Electronics|Gen3]],or anything else compatible<br />
(optional)<br />
3x 30mmx10mm Optoflags (if using opto endstops) Thin, stiff, opaque sheet<br />
2x 8mm ID spring Spring<br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. <br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. <br />
(You can combine the latter two by having a piece of thick sheet with dimensions 290x234. Make sure to mark which side is which.)<br />
<br />
When cutting the threaded rods from 1m lengths, you will need 6x 1m pieces (or 5x 1m pieces and 1x 50cm piece). Cut them as follows:<br />
Rod 1: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm (the last piece will turn up somewhat shorter than 50mm. Use it for your idler)<br />
Rod 2: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm<br />
Rod 3: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 4: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 5: 440mm, 440mm, ~120mm<br />
Rod 6: 440mm<br />
<br />
(The Prusa Mendel uses the 4 drivers in the standard Mendel electronics package to drive 5 motors by using "two steppers wired in parallel to one driver"[http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-y-and-z-axes.html]).<br />
<br />
=== Buy the Non-Printed parts (vitamins) ===<br />
<br />
Hardware sets are available in [[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#Electrical_and_mechanical_kits_and_parts]]<br />
<br />
== Printing the Parts ==<br />
[[File:Prusa.jpg|right|thumbnail|300px|A printed set of Prusa Mendel parts]]<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a Mendel ===<br />
An easier option then individually printing each part if you are printing Prusa on a RepRap Mendel is the pre-assembled build file containing the Prusa parts. With this option you only need to print the Mendel plate and the PLA bushings to get a complete Prusa Mendel:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mendelplate.stl Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/pla-bushing.stl PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
SAE versions:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mendelplate.stl SAE Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/pla-bushing.stl SAE PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]] ===<br />
There are also pre-assembled build files available to fit your [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]]'s build area (download using right click => save as)<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' <br />
* These plates are 85x95mm in size. <br />
<br />
Plates for the MakerBot (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate1.stl Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate2.stl Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate3.stl Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate4.stl Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate5.stl Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
SAE versions: (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate1.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate2.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate3.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate4.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate5.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on anything else ===<br />
Last but not least, if you have a machine that doesn't fit into any of the previous options all the .stl files necessary to print a Prusa Mendel are available on the [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel PrusaMendel Github] where you can download them and print them individually.<br />
<br />
=== Buy the printed parts ===<br />
[[Mendel_Buyers_Guide#RepRapped_Parts_Kits]]<br />
<br />
== Assembly ==<br />
<br />
For the visually oriented, have a look at this [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel photo gallery] of an ongoing Mendel Prusa build.<br />
<br />
===Assembling the frame vertex triangles (2x)===<br />
Notes:<br />
*Heating the flat side of a bushing with a hair dryer or heat gun before snapping onto the smooth bar can keep it from snapping.<br />
<br />
This part takes 15 minutes per triangle to assemble, for a total of 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
There is a triangle on each side of the Prusa RepRap, you will need to make 2 of these and then connect them together (see next step) to form the Prusa frame. Each side is an equilateral triangle with a frame vertex on each corner. You can use either footed or non-footed vertices to build this (the footed ones look better, but are not critical.) The instructions assume you are using footed vertices.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required (per triangle)'''<br />
* 2 RP footed frame vertices<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP frame vertex (non-footed)<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP bar clamp<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 3 370mm M8 threaded rods<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>-PFy4KhW9gE</videoflash><br />
# Take one of the 370mm threaded rods, and slip an M8 washer onto the middle of it.<br />
# Take the RP bar clamp (the U-shaped bit with the two holes) and slide the threaded rod through the two holes until the clamp sits next to the washer.<br />
# Slide another washer onto the rod from the other side.<br />
# Thread two M8 nuts onto either side of the clamp, until they are next to the washer, but do not tighten them yet.<br />
# Thread another two nuts on each side of the rod, followed by washers. See the picture for what it should look like. <flickr>5188262096|thumb|right|m|The bar clamp on the threaded rod.</flickr><br />
# Slide the rod through the long bottom (footed) side of two vertices. Make sure the feet point in the same direction. Also make sure the bulge on the non-footed side of the vertex points outwards.<br />
# Measure the distance. The distance between the two vertices should be 290mm (along the rod, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Get it approximately right now, we will check this again later. If you have a frame jig, place it between the two vertices and adjust the nuts until you can just barely fit the jig J1 between them.<br />
# Place another washer and nut on the other side of the vertex. Tighten, but not too much. We'll need a bit of flexibility here still.<br />
# Take another 370mm M8 threaded rod and place a nut followed by a washer at each end.<br />
# Place one end of the threaded rod into the one of the two footed frame vertices. It should be in the same plane as the first threaded rod. fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have two sides of the equilateral triangle.<br />
# Take the third piece of threaded rod and put a nut and washer on each end. Place it in the other footed vertex and fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have a triangle of threaded rods with two footed vertices on two of the corners, nothing in the third corner, and a bar clamp between the two vertices.<br />
# Take the third vertex (non-footed) and slide it onto the threaded rods in the final corner of the triangle. Measure the lenghts of the three sides to make sure they are all 290mm long (along the rod from plastic part to plastic part, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Adjust the nuts to make sure this is so. Use the frame jig J1 if you have one. Once done, place a washer and nut on the top of the vertex. Tighten all the outer nuts. <br />
<flickr>5188259098|thumb|right|m|The finished frame triangle </flickr><br />
# You should now have a sturdy triangle with equal-length sides, two feet on the bottom, and a bar clamp between the feet. Adjust the nuts around the bar clamp (but do not crush the bar clamp together yet) until it's approximately in the middle of the rod. Leave the nuts there loose. See photo for what you should have at this point.<br />
# That's it, that's one of the triangles done. Repeat the entire procedure for the second triangle. It is exactly identical to the first.<br />
<br />
Now we need to connect the 2 frame triangles to form the Prusa RepRap frame.<br />
<br />
The easiest way to do this is to thread everything onto the front and rear threaded rods and attach those to the triangles first, and then thread the top rods through. That's what the instructions below assume you are doing.<br />
<br style="clear:both"/><br />
<br />
=== Assembling the front threaded rods ===<br />
This step takes about 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the front/bottom vertex of each triangle as well as the y-stage bars and y motor mount to the frame.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP y motor bracket<br />
[[File:pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 18 M8 nuts<br />
* 20 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>9ut45Pe9gkw</videoflash><br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Thread an M8 nut onto the middle of the rod. Slide an M8 washer next to it. <br />
# Thread the rod through the bottom hole of the RP y-motor-bracket. The bottom hole of the bracket is the long, straight side.<flickr>5373622677|thumb|right|m|The long, straight side of the RP Y motor bracket will be parallel to ground when you are all done.</flickr><br />
# Slide another washer onto the other side of the rod and add another M8 nut to hold it in place.<br />
# Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, the y-motor-bracket (with the pointy bit pointed towards you),1 washer, 1 nut, 2 washers, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# When you hold it with the bigger part (with the circular hole) of the motor bracket ''towards you'', it should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:front-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# You can now attach this setup to the triangle sides. Make sure the bigger part of the motor bracket points '''OUT''' of the triangle. Thread the ends of the rods through two of the footed vertices. Put a washer and nut on the end of each threaded rod.<br />
It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:front-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the rear threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 20 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the back/bottom vertex of the 2 triangles together as well as the y-stage bars and belt pulley.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>LfjWQKbxPGI</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>Pern6akmEn4</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is again a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# It should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:rear-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# Attach the two rods to the two remaining footed vertices. Thread each end of the rod through the vertex, and add a washer and nut. It should now look like this: <br/> [[File:rear-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
Your frame should now be standing on its own feet without support, but the tops sides of the triangles will still be wobbly. We'll fix that next.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the top threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
These connect the 2 frame triangles at their tops as well as providing mounts for the z-axis motors.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled and connected frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP z motor mounts<br />
[[File:pm-z-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 12 M8 nuts<br />
* 16 M8 washers<br />
* 2 440mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>HI77eGBl4gU</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Slide one of the threaded rods through one side of one of the top vertices. Put a washer, two nuts, and another washer on the part of the rod between the top vertices. This is what it should look like when seen from above: <br/> [[File:top-step1.png|center]]<br />
# Repeat for the other rod. It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:top-step2.png|center]]<br />
# Slide the rods through the opposite side vertex. Thread the nuts up to the vertices on each side.<br />
# To each of the four ends of the threaded rod, add a washer, a nut and another washer. Your setup should now look like this: <br/>[[File:top-step3.png|center]]<br />
# Take one of the RP z motor mounts and attach it to the ends of the threaded rod. The side with the two holes and the indentation should point towards the ''outside''. Add a washer and nut to the end of each rod.<br />
# Repeat this on the other side. The top of the machine should now look like this: <br/> [[File:top.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Tightening the frame ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Now that the frame is fully assembled we can adjust and tighten each of its threaded rods. You will need your frame jigs if you have them, or a reasonably precise length measurement tool.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 M8 nuts<br />
* 4 M8 washers<br />
* 1 440mm threaded rod<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. This is your frame jig J2.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>jwvujYvElhM</videoflash><br />
# Verify that the triangle vertices have distance J1 (290mm, equivalent is 11-13/32") from plastic to plastic along each of the three sides. Once you are sure of this, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firmly attached and unable to move, but do not crush the plastic parts.<br />
# Adjust each of the bottom rods until it has distance J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") between the inside ends of the vertices. Use frame jig J2 to check this if you have it. Once you are sure this is true, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firm, but do not crush the plastic.<br />
# Adjust the top of the frame so that the distance between the inside ends of the vertices is precisely J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") and the length of rod outside the vertex on one side is the same as the length outside the vertex on the other side. Double-check the distances before tightening the nut on the outside of the vertex.<br />
# The frame should now be fairly stable. Using a plumb line or similar (for example a nut hanging on a length of yarn), adjust the bar clamps on the bottom side of each triangle until they are close to center of the top vertices. Do not tighten the nuts either side of the bar clamps yet. These need to space the 440 mm rod exactly 1 bar clamp from the center line of the bot. This is so the polished z-rods are exactly centered with the bot and run perfectly vertical.<br />
# Insert the 440mm threaded rod through the two bar clamps on the bottom of the frame. make sure the new rod is on ''top'' of the triangle bottom rod. Adjust it so that the same length sticks out on each side.<br />
# On each side, place a nut, washer, bar clamp (threaded through the holes), washer, and another nut. The hole to which should go the z-running smooth rod should be virtually in center of bottom triangle rods. The setup should look like this when seen from below:<br />
<br/> [[File:bottom-rod.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the y axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 225x140mm print bottom plate<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 2 406mm smooth rods<br />
* 1 y timing belt<br />
* 1 NEMA 17 stepper motor<br />
* 1 pulley<br />
* 3 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 4 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>A46NKyBos_8</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>7ZBNewV_CWw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Mark each of the four corners of the print bottom plate 8mm (equivalent is ~5/16") from each side with the marker.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole in each of the four corners.<br />
# Clamp the print bottom plate and the print top plate together, so that the bottom plate is equally far from each edge of the top plate. Drill 3mm holes into the top plate through the corner holes in the bottom plate so that they match on both plates.<br />
# Slide the two 406mm smooth rods through the bar clamps on the front and rear threaded rods. They should fit <br />
snugly and be approximately parallel. <br />
# Place the narrow side of the "print bottom" plate between the rods. This ensures they are exactly 140mm (equivalent is 5-33/64") apart from each other. Adjust the nuts on the front side bar clamps until the print bottom plate just barely fits between the rods. Try to get them at an approximately equal distance from the middle of the rod. <br />
# Tighten the front nuts just enough that they do not move on their own, but no further.<br />
# Measure the distance from the left front vertex to the left smooth rod. Adjust the distance from the left rear vertex to the left smooth rod to match it. This ensures the left rod is parallel to the frame. Tighten the nuts on the left clamp just enough that they do not move around.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate next to the left smooth rod on the rear side. Adjust the right rear bar clamp's nuts until the narrow side of the bottom plate barely fits between the rods.<br />
# Recheck the distances from the left vertex to the left rod are the same at the front and rear and that the short side of the print bottom plate fits snugly between the smooth rods both at the front and at the rear. This should ensure that the rods are parallel to each other and to the frame. Use the diagram below to see what it should look like from above. <br/> [[File:y-rods.png|center]]<br />
# Tighten the nuts on all of the four bar clamps now.<br />
# Snap 2 PLA bushings onto each of the two smooth rods. Place them about 120mm apart on each rod. Make sure they slide freely on the rods. Put a dab of glue on the top side of the bushings (the side opposite the open side). Carefully place the print bottom plate on top of the bushings, so that it's equally far apart from each of the two triangles (see diagram below). Wait for the glue to dry. <br/> [[File:y-plate.png|center]]<br />
# While the glue is drying, adjust the bearing on the rear threaded rod until it is exactly across from the front threaded rod. Tighten the nuts on the y motor bracket and the bearings at this point. All nuts on the front and rear rods should now be tight.<br />
# Also while the glue is drying, ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel in the pulley that goes to the center hole.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Place the motor with the pulley on it next to the mounting holes in the y motor bracket. Position the motor the left, so that the pulley ends up on the side of the bearing.<br />
# Adjust the pulley position on the shaft so that when the motor is flush with the bracket, the teeth on the pulley are approximately at the position of the bearing.<br />
# Fasten the motor with 3 M3x10 bolts. Put a washer between each bolt and the y motor bracket.<br />
# Tighten the grub screw so that the pulley cannot move along the shaft.<br />
# Position the y belt on top of the print bottom plate and through both of the bearings. Pull lightly on both ends so that it is straight. If the belt is not straight, adjust the position of the rear bearing until it is. Use a marker to mark out the position of the belt on the print bottom plate. Also mark which side of the plate is on the left.<br />
# ''After the glue has dried,'' carefully pop the print bottom plate with the PLA bushings off the rails. Place the two belt clamps perpendicular to the marked position of the belt, several centimeters apart. Make sure the belt position is between the two holes on each clamp. Use a marker to mark where the holes of the belt clamps would be on the plate.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole through each of the four marked belt clamp holes.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate back on the smooth rods, paying attention to the marking to make sure the correct side is on the left.<br />
# Place one end of the belt, toothed side down, where the holes for the front belt clamp are. Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in one of the belt clamps. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt. Leave several centimeters of the belt behind the clamp.<br />
# Put two M3 nuts underneath the plate and thread them onto the bolts. Tighten both nuts so that the end of the belt is firmly attached to the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Pass the belt over the front bearing, around the motor pulley, and then up underneath the plate to the other bearing. Pull it tight, then lay it on top of the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in the second belt clamp. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt.<br />
# Attach an M3 nut to each of the two bolts, and pull the belt tight before tightening the two nuts.<br />
# Turn the motor by hand. It should turn with little effort, and each slight rotation should be matched by a slight movement of the plate. Make sure it slides smoothly along the entire length of the rods. Pushing the plate should immediately make the motor turn. Make sure the belt is not too loose (plate and motor should not be able to move independently) or too tight (taking a lot of effort to move the plate). Once you are confident your belt tension is correct, tighten the clamps very firmly. You may now trim the belt, but leave several centimeters behind each clamp for future adjustment.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the x axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-end-motor<br />
[[File:pm-x-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP x-end-idler<br />
[[File:pm-x-idler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 495mm smooth rods<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 50mm M8 threaded rod<br />
* 3 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8 nuts<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>K9bXwOZOXps</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Drill out the center hole in the hexagonal section of the x-end-idler and x-end-motor parts to 8mm.<br />
# Take the x-end-idler. Check the size of the hole on the flat, thin side surface. If it is 4mm in diameter, enlarge it using a file until it's 8mm in diameter.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps in the long channels on the bottom of the x-end-idler. You may find pulling them into the nut trap using an M3 bolt makes it easier. Thread M3x10 bolts through them, but just far enough that they do not fall out.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps of the x-end-motor part as well. Thread M3x10 bolts through those as above.<br />
# Place the x-end-motor and x-end-idler 50cm apart, so that the hexagonal parts are facing each other.<br />
# Slide the two 495mm smooth rods into the x-end idler. Make sure they go past the nut traps.<br />
# Slide the other ends of the rods into x-end-motor. Make sure they go past the nut traps. The hexagonal sections of the motor and idler should still be facing each other.<br />
# Tighten the M3 bolts on the x-end-idler. The x-end-motor should be able to move along the rods with minor effort. Do ''not'' tighten the x-end-motor bolts yet.<br />
# Thread an M8 nut onto one end of the 50mm threaded rod. (Alternatively, you can use an M8x50 bolt)<br />
# Put the following parts in this order onto the free end of the threaded rod (behind the nut): 1 fender washer, 1 M8 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 M8 washer, 1 fender washer.<br />
# Thread the free end of the threaded rod into the side of the x-end-idler. The bearing should be on the outside. Put an M8 washer and an M8 nut on the inside and tighten both nuts.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the z axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP shaft couplers<br />
[[File:pm-coupler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP rod-clamp<br />
[[File:pm-rod-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x axis assembly (from the previous step)<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 20 M3 washers<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 8 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors<br />
* 2 210mm threaded rods <br />
* 2 330mm smooth rods<br />
* 4 M8 nuts (2 optional)<br />
* 2 8.5mm ID springs (optional)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>v_W7WPdQ3Qo</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>bCK1W3SE1Xs</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Use a spirit level to make sure the two rods at the top of the frame are horizontal. If they are not, stack bits of paper under the vertices at the bottom until they are.<br />
# Drop a plumb line (or a nut tied to a length of yarn) directly down from the indentation on the side of the left z-motor-holder. Adjust the two bar clamps at the bottom of the frame on the left side until the nut falls into the U of the outer clamp. Repeat on the other side.<br />
# Put M3 nuts into the nut traps on both z-motor-holder ends.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on 2 M3x25 bolts and thread them into the flat (non-indented) end of a rod-clamp. Attach the rod-clamp to one of the z-motor-holders. Do not tighten.<br />
# Repeat for the other z-motor-holder and rod-clamp.<br />
# Insert a 330mm smooth rod into the space between each z-motor-holder and rod-clamp. Slide it in from the top. On the bottom, insert it into the U of the bottom bar clamp.<br />
# Using the plumb line, check that the smooth rods are vertical. If they are not, adjust the bottom bar clamp positions until they are. This is critical, so take as much time as you need.<br />
# Tighten the nuts on the bar clamps and the bolts on the rod clamps. Check again with the plumb line.<br />
# Place two PLA bushings on each of the smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Position the x-axis assembly inside the frame so that the bushing channels on the x-axis-motor and x-axis-idler align with the bushings. The x-end-idler should be on the right, with the bearing on the rear side of the machine.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Push the rectangular channels of x-end-idler and x-end-motor against the flat of the bushings. Position the x-end-idler against the bushings on the right side of the machine and then slide the x-end-motor along the x-axis smooth rods until it makes contact with the bushings on the left side of the machine. Let the glue dry.<br />
# While the glue is drying, assemble the couplings. Insert an M3x25 bolt, with an M3 washer, through each of the two side holes on each coupling. Put an M3 washer and M3 nut on the other end. Do not tighten yet.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried'', slide the X axis to the top of the Z axis smooth rod, and place some kind of support underneath the x-axis smooth rods to hold it up in approximately the middle of the frame. Tighten the M3x10 screws on the bottom of the x-end-motor.<br />
#Slide X axis to the bottom of the Z axis smooth rod, if you feel the bushings binding, jog the bar clamps on both sides of the Z axis untill the bushings can travel the full length of the Z rod with no resistance.<br />
# Insert an M8 nut into the bottom of the hexagonal channel of x-end-motor. Repeat for x-end-idler.<br />
# ''(optional)'' Insert a spring into the top of the hexagonal channel of each x-end part. Insert an M8 nut on top of each spring.<br />
# Thread one end of the 210mm threaded rods into each hexagonal channel from above, compressing the top nut and spring if you have them. The threaded rod should turn freely in each channel, and the nuts should stay snugly in place. Turn the rods until about half their length sticks out from the bottom of the parts.<br />
# Place a NEMA 17 motor into each of the two z-motor-holder parts, shaft down. You may ''optionally'' fasten them from underneath with M3x10 bolts and M3 washers.<br />
# Attach the narrower end of a coupling to each of the motor shafts. Do not tighten the nuts on the coupling yet.<br />
# Turn the 210mm threaded rods so that they go upwards and enter the coupling. Screw them as far into the coupling as they will go, but do not use excessive force.<br />
# Carefully tighten the M3 nuts on both couplings.<br />
# Turn both threaded rods so that the x axis moves up. Make sure the couplings are supporting the weight.<br />
# Place a spirit level on the x-axis smooth rods. Turn the threaded rod on one side only until the x axis is level. Your Z axis is ready.<br />
<br />
=== Installing the x carriage ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-carriage<br />
[[File:pm-x-cariage.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP pulley<br />
[[File:pm-pulley.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x belt<br />
* 2 M4 nuts<br />
* 5 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
* 4 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 1 Extruder<br />
* 1 NEMA17 stepper motor<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>NjowDqytHJQ</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>ahg42Vu4VLw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel on the side of the pulley rim.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Slide the pulley onto the motor shaft so that the rim comes onto the shaft last. Leave 1mm or so of shaft between the pulley and the motor body. Tighten the grub screw.<br />
# Insert the motor into the x-end-motor part so that the motor body is on the front of the machine and the pulley points towards the rear. The pulley teeth and the idler on the opposite side of the X axis should be aligned.<br />
# Fasten the motor using 4 M3x10 bolts and 4 M3 washers. The motor body should now be on top of the x-axis smooth rods.<br />
# Place 4 PLA bushings on the x-axis smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Place the x-carriage on top of the bushings, making sure they fit into the channels. The protruding part of the x-carriage with the four nut traps should be on the side of the pulley and idler, pointing towards the rear of the machine.<br />
# Wait for the glue to dry.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried,'' make sure the carriage can slide along the rods freely from end to end. Turn the entire frame around so that the rear of the machine faces towards you.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on each of two M3x25 bolts. Thread them through the holes of one belt-clamp. Repeat for the second belt-clamp.<br />
# Loosely attach one of the belt clamps to the carriage. Thread the two bolts through the holes in the carriage and attach nuts to them. Make sure there is enough space for the belt to slide between the clamp and the carriage. Repeat for the other clamp.<br />
# Slide one end of the belt through the left clamp, toothed side up. Pull several centimeters through, then tighten the clamp.<br />
# Run the belt over the 608 bearing and the motor pulley, then thread it through the other clamp, toothed side up. The belt should now form an elongated loop with the teeth on the inside of the loop. Pull the belt tight and tighten the second clamp.<br />
# Verify that the belt tension is right. Turning the motor pulley by hand should make the carriage move. The carriage should move freely along the entire length of the axis.<br />
# Use two M4x20 bolts and two M4 nuts to mount the extruder to the x-carriage.<br />
<br />
====Tips for assembling Wade + Arcols hotend====<br />
#Open Wade assembly manual [http://reprap.org/wiki/Wade's_Geared_Extruder]<br />
#Prepare big wheel with hobbed bolt. Prepare pulley on motor.<br />
#Assemble the long bolts for idler and the bearings. Check how bolts is lining the filament path and other stuff.<br />
#Mount the hotend to the Wade. <br />
#Mount the Wade to the x-carriage.<br />
#Assemble the motor to Wade. Dont use washer on two bolts nearer to the. Preferably use low profile screws. Also dont tighten these two screw too much, you can later slide the motor without taking out the big gear.<br />
#Add the hobbed bolt with gear.<br />
#Add the idler.<br />
<br />
=== Wiring the electronics ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 Electronics setup (Pololu, Ramps, Gen3, Gen6, or anything else compatible)<br />
* 3 endstops<br />
* 3 RP endstop holders<br />
* 3 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 6 M3 washers<br />
* 3 M3 nuts<br />
* A lot of cable ties<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
Electronics assembly.<br />
<videoflash>UHBDstsSJj0</videoflash><br />
<br />
# There are various electronics configurations out there, but thay are mostly compatible. Regardless of what electronics you have, you should have at least three stepper drivers, ideally four. Those are either integrated on the board or separate modules. Identify the motor connections for X, Y, Z and the extruder stepper (E on some setups). Also identify the connections for the heated bed (if you have one), the extruder heater connection, the extruder and heated bed thermistors, and the X, Y and Z MIN endstop connections.<br />
# Screw or glue your endstops (opto or microswitch) to the long side of the three endstop holders.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, you will need to make three opto flags. These are long, thin strips of some easily formable, opaque material, for example metal sheet from drink cans. If you are using microswitch endstops, you can skip this step. Take an empty drink can and cut three 10mmx30mm pieces from from it. These will be your optoflags.<br />
# Position your endstops on the smooth rods. Facing the front of the machine, place one on the left z smooth rod below where the x axis currently is. This is your Place one on the far left of the rear x axis smooth rod. Place the third one on the right y axis smooth rod behind the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on an M3x25 bolt and thread it through each endstop holder, and put a washer and M3 nut on the other side. Do not tighten these nuts yet.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, glue an optoflag onto the left side of the x-carriage, the bottom of the x-motor-bracket (pointing down) and the print bottom plate, so that they go through the gap in the optoswitch as the axis slides.<br />
# You now need to determine the limits of each axis. With the extruder/hotend installed, slide the X carriage left until the nozzle is 10mm to the right from the left edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that the opto/switch is engaged in this position. If your optoflag is too long, trim it until it just barely triggers the endstop when the nozzle is in this position. Tighten the nut on the X endstop, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Slide the print bottom plate backwards until the nozzle is about 42mm (equivalent is 1-21/32") in front of the front edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that it engages when the print bottom plate is in this position. Tighten the Y endstop nut, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the Z axis moves downwards. Do not worry about the height yet. You will need to adjust the position of this endstop once the bed is installed and leveled. <br />
# Decide where your electronics will live. Mount these in place first, that will allow you to route cables easier.<br />
# Slide the X carriage as far away from the electronics as possible.<br />
# Route the cables from each of the endstops along the frame to the electronics board. Plug each one into the appropriate connector. For the X endstop, leave enough slack in the cable to allow the X axis to move along the Z all the way up and down the frame. Make sure none of the wires interfere with the movement of the axes. Use zipties to fix the wires to the frame. <br />
# Splice the Z motor wires together in parallel. If the motors are identical, join each wire with the wire of the same color, and then attach them to the connector that matches your electronics. Route the wires along the frame to your electronics board, and attach them to the Z-driver connector. Use cable ties to fix the wires to the frame.<br />
# Attach the Y motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame (making sure they don't interfere with the Y-axis movement) and attach them to your electronics at the Y-driver connector. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Attach the X motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame and attach them to your electronics at the X-driver connector. Leave enough slack for the X-axis to move all the way up and down the Z axis without getting caught on the wires. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Leaving enough slack so that the wires don't get stretched even when the X carriage is furthest away from the electronics, route the extruder motor, heater, and thermistor wires along the frame, to the electronics. Keep careful track of which wire is which. Color-coding is recommended. If your wires are not different colors, attach labels to the ends. Attach connectors to the wires to match your electronics and plug them into your electronics board. The stepper connection goes into the EXTRUDER/E connector. Tie the cables down to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Move the X and Y axes all the way in each direction, and check that no wires interfere with movement. Once done, slide each axis to approximately the middle of its range.<br />
# Get a piece of paper, and write "X, Y, Z, E" on it.<br />
# Plug in the power and USB connections to the electronics. ''From this point on, if ANYTHING acts strange, switch off power first, and figure it out later. This is extremely important!''<br />
# Connect to the electronics from a computer using repsnapper, reprap host, or replicatorg.<br />
# Stand in front of the machine. In the software, tell the X axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves to the RIGHT, write "OK" under X on your paper. If it moves to the LEFT, write "REV" under X. If it does not move write "NO" under it.<br />
# Tell the Y axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves FORWARD (towards you), write "OK" under Y. If it moves BACKWARD (away from you), write "REV" under Y. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Y on your paper.<br />
# Tell the Z axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves UP, write "OK" under Z. If it moves DOWN, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Tell the extruder to move forward (positive). If it moves in the direction that would push filament into , the nozzle, write "OK" under Z. If it moves in the opposite direction, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Close the software and ''switch off the power to the machine!''<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "REV", unplug its connector from the electronics, turn it by 180 degrees, and plug it in again. If the connector is polarized (can only be plugged in one way), you might need to reconnect the wires to the connector.<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "NO", make sure its connector is wired to the motor, and the connector is seated properly.<br />
# Repeat the test until all axes are labeled "OK". Now tell the X and Y axes to home. They should move until they reach their endstops, then stop.<br />
<br />
=== Attaching the print bed ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 4 M3x40 bolts<br />
* 4 ballpoint pen springs<br />
* 8 M3 nuts (optionally nyloc)<br />
* 16 M3 washers<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>dQSLWYBepVA</videoflash><br />
# If you have a heated build platform, install it on the print top plate at this point. Cover your top plate or build platform with whatever your build surface material will be (Kapton, blue tape, etc.) <br />
# Put a washer on each of the four M3x40 bolts.<br />
# Thread each bolt through one of the holes in the print top plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer, a ballpoint pen spring, and another M3 washer onto each bolt.<br />
# Thread a nut onto each bolt to fasten it to the print top plate. Do not tighten. This nut is only there to hold the springs in place.<br />
# Carefully place the print top plate on top of the print bottom plate. Make sure each bolt goes through one of the holes in the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer and nut on the end of each of the bolts.<br />
# Level the bed. To do this, put a spirit level on top of the bed and adjust the nuts of each of the M3 bolts until the spirit level shows the bed is level. Use the top nut to adjust the height and the bottom nut to fix it. If you have a heated build platform, put the spirit level on the platform. Once done, tighten all nuts.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the nozzle is just barely above the bed. <br />
# You are now ready to print. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
=== Firmware modifications ===<br />
<br />
#Because the Z axis rods are directly driven, you need to alter your firmware to reflect this. For 5/16 rod lead screws you need to change the #define z_steps_per_mm to 1133.858 in 1/8 and 2267.716 with 1/16 stepping.<br />
<br />
== Media ==<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyVM3-v84I0 Two printers simultaneously] - Prusa and shaper cube working side by side.<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh3S9aOMRhU Prusa homing using enstops]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8c5fB9Ozek Prusa development overview]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MvUD-tuOX0 Prusa Y axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-pDYDnHYaQ Prusa Z axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNRapg2gaPg Early preview of the Prusa Mendel redesign]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/56020395@N06/sets/72157625420636778/show/ Fumon's Prusa build session 1] - D1plo1d building Fumon's Prusa Mendel at Hacklab.to. Should give a hint as to how the Prusa Mendel parts go together.<br />
<br />
== Prusa Improvements/Hacks ==<br />
* Rob's [[Auto-centering shaft coupler]] - designed to reduce shaft/motor vibrations (print 2/replaces 2x coupler). May require widening the openings on the z motor mounts to allow the rotation of the zip tie. Use a zip tie gun to get maximum compression on the coupling.<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[PLA bushings]]<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
* [http://prusadjs.cz/ Prusa's Blog]<br />
* [http://feeds.feedburner.com/Prusabuilders Prusa Builder Blog Feed]<br />
* [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel assembly photo gallery]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PCB_Heatbed&diff=28789PCB Heatbed2011-02-21T10:38:55Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|description = PCB Heatbed<br />
|author = Josef Průša<br />
|reprap = mendel/darwin/repstraps<br />
|categories = addons<br />
|url = http://prusadjs.cz/2010/07/pcb-heatbed-in-production/<br />
}}<br />
==About==<br />
PCB heated bed. I'm working on this idea for nearly six months, inspired by [http://neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 ].<br />
<br />
<br />
==Printing==<br />
Cover the bed with kapton tape. Degrease it and print.<br />
<br />
ABS temp: 110°C<br />
PLA temp: 50-60°C<br />
<br />
MAKE SURE YOUR PSU HAS 10 MORE AMPS SPARE!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
==Mounting==<br />
Known working solution, I (prusajr) use is Glass sheet (3mm) with glued on cork standoffs and on top of that is glued the heatbed.<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919911/<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919707/<br />
<br />
We are now working on simpler mounting solution!<br />
<br />
==Sides==<br />
PCB Bed has two sides, one with the traces (bottom side) and one with silkscreen (top).<br />
<br />
Printing on top side is safer, works great.<br />
<br />
Printing on bottom is more effective and heats up quicker.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Connection==<br />
Polarity doesnt affect anything. <br />
<br />
===Leds===<br />
There is place for two leds you should put each of them in different direction so atleast one of them is lighten up, no matter what polarity you use.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED_DIAGRAM.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===RAMPS===<br />
There are two way how to power the heatbed.<br />
1) You can omit the fuse on the board and use one of the mosfet outputs.<br />
2) Plug one heatbed wire to the GND pin on the mosfet output on RAMPS and connect the 12V+ separately to your powesupply. (Better)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Its now in working state, Printed load of kits on it, working great.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Main Idea is to use resistance of pcb traces as heating element.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PCB_Heatbed&diff=28783PCB Heatbed2011-02-21T10:25:14Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|description = PCB Heatbed<br />
|author = Josef Průša<br />
|reprap = mendel/darwin/repstraps<br />
|categories = addons<br />
|url = http://prusadjs.cz/2010/07/pcb-heatbed-in-production/<br />
}}<br />
<br />
PCB heated bed. I'm working on this idea for nearly six months, inspired by [http://neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 ].<br />
<br />
==Sides==<br />
PCB Bed has two sides, one with the traces (bottom side) and one with silkscreen (top).<br />
<br />
Printing on top side is safer, works great.<br />
<br />
Printing on bottom is more effective and heats up quicker.<br />
<br />
==Connection==<br />
Polarity doesnt affect anything. <br />
<br />
===Leds===<br />
There is place for two leds you should put each of them in different direction so atleast one of them is lighten up, no matter what polarity you use.<br />
<br />
===RAMPS===<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Its now in working state, Printed load of kits on it, working great.<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED_DIAGRAM.jpg]]<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Main Idea is to use resistance of pcb traces as heating element.</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User:Prusajr&diff=28055User:Prusajr2011-02-05T11:21:56Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>=Contact=<br />
*http://josefprusa.cz<br />
*josefprusa@me.com<br />
*skype: prusajr<br />
<br />
=Contributions=<br />
* [[Prusa Mendel]]<br />
* [[Thermocouple_vs_Thermistor]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Nice People Who Upload Files And Are Quite Keen On Selling You A Set Of Printed Parts]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Thermistortest.zip&diff=28054File:Thermistortest.zip2011-02-05T11:20:59Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:DeviationGraph.jpg&diff=28053File:DeviationGraph.jpg2011-02-05T11:16:28Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:CompareGraph.jpg&diff=28052File:CompareGraph.jpg2011-02-05T11:13:48Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Thermocouple_vs_Thermistor&diff=28051Thermocouple vs Thermistor2011-02-05T11:12:38Z<p>Prusajr: Created page with '===Test comparing Thermocouple vs Thermistor=== I originally wanted to just calibrate the thermistor table I used in my FW, since I remember that Camiel from Mend…'</p>
<hr />
<div>===Test comparing Thermocouple vs Thermistor===<br />
I originally wanted to just calibrate the thermistor table I used in my FW, since I remember that [[User:Camiel|Camiel]] from Mendel-parts was moaning that his table was horrible and it affected his prints, I now just guess that his table wasn't made for his thermistor. I used one generated exactly for my thermistor by '''createTemperatureLookup.py''' from SVN. So I crated fake heater with both Thermocouple and Thermistor and written small sketch in Arduino to generate table, BUT I did want to simply try how imprecise it is. Then I was shocked, both readings were pretty close, actually biggest deviation was 3°C. You can see the graphs under and also download the Arduino sketch and sample data. <br />
<br />
My verdict, is that both technologies are good for heaters and heatbeds, the precision is mainly affected by mounting on heater. Also be carefull to use precision resistors for thermistor circuits, thats all :-)<br />
<br />
<videoflash>-_jajcG28M0</videoflash><br />
<br />
[[Image:compareGraph.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:deviationGraph.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
=Files=<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! AVAILABLE FORMATS<br />
! CREATED/RESERVED BY<br />
|-<br />
| Arduino code and data<br />
| PDE CSV XLS<br />
| Data<br />
| [[media:thermistortest.zip|.zip]]<br />
| [[User:Prusajr|--Prusajr]] 12:08, February 5, 2011 (UTC)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel&diff=27176Prusa Mendel2011-01-22T22:08:46Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa Mendel<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of normal [[Mendel]].<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr (design), Kliment (maintenance and documentation)<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel Variations|Mendel Variations]][[Category:Mendel Variations]],<br />
}}<br />
<br />
Also see [[SAE Prusa Mendel]] if you are building this machine using SAE (Imperial) Fasterers<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of the original [[Mendel]]. I wanted to use bushings instead of regular bearings. The current version uses three 608 bearings in total, one for the X and two for the Y axis. The 624 bearings are gone altogether.<br />
I have the entire machine up and running, with my printed PLA bushings. It's pretty smooth.<br />
<br/><br />
__TOC__<br />
<div style="clear:both"></div><br />
<videoflash>tyVM3-v84I0</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel<br />
<br />
You can follow the changes on [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/commits/master Changelog]<br />
<br />
You can sign up for github for free and fork the project to begin working on it.<br />
<br />
=== History ===<br />
* http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-pla-bushings.html<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials ==<br />
<br />
=== Printed Parts ===<br />
2x coupling RP<br />
3x endstop-holder RP<br />
1x x-carriage RP<br />
1x x-end-idler RP<br />
1x x-end-motor RP<br />
1x y-motor-bracket RP<br />
2x z-motor-mount RP<br />
4x belt-clamp RP<br />
8x bar-clamp RP<br />
2x rod-clamp RP<br />
2x pulley RP<br />
AND EITHER<br />
6x frame-vertex RP<br />
OR<br />
4x frame-vertex with foot RP<br />
2x frame-vertex RP<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Printed Bushings ====<br />
12x pla-bushing RP-PLA (check your build file, the file makes either 4 or 12.)<br />
<br />
=== Non-Printed Parts ("vitamins") ===<br />
(necessary)<br />
83x M8 nut Fastener (buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side. These are useful)<br />
93x M8 washer Fastener (again, buy a 100-pack.)<br />
2x M4x20 bolt Fastener<br />
2x M4 nut Fastener<br />
2x M4 washer Fastener<br />
22x M3x10 bolt Fastener<br />
16x M3x25 bolt Fastener<br />
4x M3x40 bolt Fastener<br />
70x M3 washer Fastener<br />
40x M3 nut (8 optionally nyloc) Fastener<br />
2x M3 grub screw (or M3x10 bolt) Fastener<br />
6x M8x30 Mudguard/fender washers Fastener<br />
3x 608 Bearing Bearings<br />
4x Ballpoint pen springs Spring<br />
6x M8x370mm side Threaded rod<br />
4x M8x294mm front/rear Threaded rod<br />
3x M8x440mm top/bottom Threaded rod<br />
2x M8x210mm Z-leadscrew Threaded rod<br />
1x M8x50mm threaded rod or bolt for X idler Threaded rod<br />
2x 8mmx495mm X-bar Smooth rod<br />
2x 8mmx406mm Y-bar Smooth rod<br />
2x 8mmx350mm Z-bar Smooth rod<br />
1x 225mmx225mm print top plate Thick Sheet<br />
1x 140mmx225mm print bottom plate. Thick Sheet<br />
1x 840mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
1x 1380mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
5x Nema 17 bipolar NEMA Stepper<br />
50x Small cable binder/ziptie Misc.<br />
1x [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] (or any other compatible extruder)<br />
1x Electronics + endstops. This can be [[RAMPS]],[[Pololu Electronics]],[[Generation_6_Electronics|Gen6]],[[Generation_3_Electronics|Gen3]],or anything else compatible<br />
(optional)<br />
3x 30mmx10mm Optoflags (if using opto endstops) Thin, stiff, opaque sheet<br />
2x 8mm ID spring Spring<br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. <br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. <br />
(You can combine the latter two by having a piece of thick sheet with dimensions 290x234. Make sure to mark which side is which.)<br />
<br />
When cutting the threaded rods from 1m lengths, you will need 6x 1m pieces (or 5x 1m pieces and 1x 50cm piece). Cut them as follows:<br />
Rod 1: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm (the last piece will turn up somewhat shorter than 50mm. Use it for your idler)<br />
Rod 2: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm<br />
Rod 3: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 4: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 5: 440mm, 440mm, ~120mm<br />
Rod 6: 440mm<br />
<br />
(The Prusa Mendel uses the 4 drivers in the standard Mendel electronics package to drive 5 motors by using "two steppers wired in parallel to one driver"[http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-y-and-z-axes.html]).<br />
<br />
== Printing the Parts ==<br />
[[File:Prusa.jpg|right|thumbnail|300px|A printed set of Prusa Mendel parts]]<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a Mendel ===<br />
An easier option then individually printing each part if you are printing Prusa on a RepRap Mendel is the pre-assembled build file containing the Prusa parts. With this option you only need to print the Mendel plate and the PLA bushings to get a complete Prusa Mendel:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mendelplate.stl Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/pla-bushing.stl PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
SAE versions:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mendelplate.stl SAE Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/pla-bushing.stl SAE PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]] ===<br />
There are also pre-assembled build files available to fit your [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]]'s build area (download using right click => save as)<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' <br />
* These plates are 85x95mm in size. <br />
<br />
Plates for the MakerBot (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate1.stl Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate2.stl Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate3.stl Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate4.stl Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl/mbotplate5.stl Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
SAE versions: (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate1.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate2.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate3.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate4.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/stl-sae/mbotplate5.stl SAE Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on anything else ===<br />
Last but not least, if you have a machine that doesn't fit into any of the previous options all the .stl files necessary to print a Prusa Mendel are available on the [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel PrusaMendel Github] where you can download them and print them individually.<br />
<br />
=== Buy the printed parts ===<br />
Support the community by buying printed parts from one of your fellow RepRap developers:<br />
[[Nice_People_Who_Upload_Files_And_Are_Quite_Keen_On_Selling_You_A_Set_Of_Printed_Parts]].<br />
<br />
You can also ask on [irc://chat.freenode.net/#reprap IRC], or try the [[RUG|RepRap User Groups]]<br />
<br />
Look on [http://www.emakershop.com eMAKERshop] where fellow reprappers have printed parts for sale.<br />
<br />
Get a complete [http://www.makergear.com/ Prusa Mendel Kit] from MakerGear.<br />
<br />
== Assembly ==<br />
<br />
For the visually oriented, have a look at this [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel photo gallery] of an ongoing Mendel Prusa build.<br />
<br />
===Assembling the frame vertex triangles (2x)===<br />
Notes:<br />
*Heating the flat side of a bushing with a hair dryer or heat gun before snapping onto the smooth bar can keep it from snapping.<br />
<br />
This part takes 15 minutes per triangle to assemble, for a total of 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
There is a triangle on each side of the Prusa RepRap, you will need to make 2 of these and then connect them together (see next step) to form the Prusa frame. Each side is an equilateral triangle with a frame vertex on each corner. You can use either footed or non-footed vertices to build this (the footed ones look better, but are not critical.) The instructions assume you are using footed vertices.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required (per triangle)'''<br />
* 2 RP footed frame vertices<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP frame vertex (non-footed)<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP bar clamp<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 3 370mm M8 threaded rods<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Take one of the 370mm threaded rods, and slip an M8 washer onto the middle of it.<br />
# Take the RP bar clamp (the U-shaped bit with the two holes) and slide the threaded rod through the two holes until the clamp sits next to the washer.<br />
# Slide another washer onto the rod from the other side.<br />
# Thread two M8 nuts onto either side of the clamp, until they are next to the washer, but do not tighten them yet.<br />
# Thread another two nuts on each side of the rod, followed by washers. See the picture for what it should look like. <flickr>5188262096|thumb|right|m|The bar clamp on the threaded rod.</flickr><br />
# Slide the rod through the long bottom (footed) side of two vertices. Make sure the feet point in the same direction. Also make sure the bulge on the non-footed side of the vertex points outwards.<br />
# Measure the distance. The distance between the two vertices should be 290mm (along the rod, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Get it approximately right now, we will check this again later. If you have a frame jig, place it between the two vertices and adjust the nuts until you can just barely fit the jig J1 between them.<br />
# Place another washer and nut on the other side of the vertex. Tighten, but not too much. We'll need a bit of flexibility here still.<br />
# Take another 370mm M8 threaded rod and place a nut followed by a washer at each end.<br />
# Place one end of the threaded rod into the one of the two footed frame vertices. It should be in the same plane as the first threaded rod. fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have two sides of the equilateral triangle.<br />
# Take the third piece of threaded rod and put a nut and washer on each end. Place it in the other footed vertex and fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have a triangle of threaded rods with two footed vertices on two of the corners, nothing in the third corner, and a bar clamp between the two vertices.<br />
# Take the third vertex (non-footed) and slide it onto the threaded rods in the final corner of the triangle. Measure the lenghts of the three sides to make sure they are all 290mm long (along the rod from plastic part to plastic part, equivalent is 11-13/32"). Adjust the nuts to make sure this is so. Use the frame jig J1 if you have one. Once done, place a washer and nut on the top of the vertex. Tighten all the outer nuts. <br />
<flickr>5188259098|thumb|right|m|The finished frame triangle </flickr><br />
# You should now have a sturdy triangle with equal-length sides, two feet on the bottom, and a bar clamp between the feet. Adjust the nuts around the bar clamp (but do not crush the bar clamp together yet) until it's approximately in the middle of the rod. Leave the nuts there loose. See photo for what you should have at this point.<br />
# That's it, that's one of the triangles done. Repeat the entire procedure for the second triangle. It is exactly identical to the first.<br />
<br />
Now we need to connect the 2 frame triangles to form the Prusa RepRap frame.<br />
<br />
The easiest way to do this is to thread everything onto the front and rear threaded rods and attach those to the triangles first, and then thread the top rods through. That's what the instructions below assume you are doing.<br />
<br style="clear:both"/><br />
<br />
=== Assembling the front threaded rods ===<br />
This step takes about 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the front/bottom vertex of each triangle as well as the y-stage bars and y motor mount to the frame.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP y motor bracket<br />
[[File:pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 18 M8 nuts<br />
* 20 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Thread an M8 nut onto the middle of the rod. Slide an M8 washer next to it. <br />
# Thread the rod through the bottom hole of the RP y-motor-bracket. The bottom hole of the bracket is the long, straight side.<flickr>5373622677|thumb|right|m|The long, straight side of the RP Y motor bracket will be parallel to ground when you are all done.</flickr><br />
# Slide another washer onto the other side of the rod and add another M8 nut to hold it in place.<br />
# Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, the y-motor-bracket (with the pointy bit pointed towards you),1 washer, 1 nut, 2 washers, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# When you hold it with the bigger part (with the circular hole) of the motor bracket ''towards you'', it should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:front-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# You can now attach this setup to the triangle sides. Make sure the bigger part of the motor bracket points '''OUT''' of the triangle. Thread the ends of the rods through two of the footed vertices. Put a washer and nut on the end of each threaded rod.<br />
It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:front-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the rear threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 20 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the back/bottom vertex of the 2 triangles together as well as the y-stage bars and belt pulley.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>LfjWQKbxPGI</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>Pern6akmEn4</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is again a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# It should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:rear-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# Attach the two rods to the two remaining footed vertices. Thread each end of the rod through the vertex, and add a washer and nut. It should now look like this: <br/> [[File:rear-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
Your frame should now be standing on its own feet without support, but the tops sides of the triangles will still be wobbly. We'll fix that next.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the top threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
These connect the 2 frame triangles at their tops as well as providing mounts for the z-axis motors.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled and connected frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP z motor mounts<br />
[[File:pm-z-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 12 M8 nuts<br />
* 16 M8 washers<br />
* 2 440mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>HI77eGBl4gU</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Slide one of the threaded rods through one side of one of the top vertices. Put a washer, two nuts, and another washer on the part of the rod between the top vertices. This is what it should look like when seen from above: <br/> [[File:top-step1.png|center]]<br />
# Repeat for the other rod. It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:top-step2.png|center]]<br />
# Slide the rods through the opposite side vertex. Thread the nuts up to the vertices on each side.<br />
# To each of the four ends of the threaded rod, add a washer, a nut and another washer. Your setup should now look like this: <br/>[[File:top-step3.png|center]]<br />
# Take one of the RP z motor mounts and attach it to the ends of the threaded rod. The side with the two holes and the indentation should point towards the ''outside''. Add a washer and nut to the end of each rod.<br />
# Repeat this on the other side. The top of the machine should now look like this: <br/> [[File:top.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Tightening the frame ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Now that the frame is fully assembled we can adjust and tighten each of its threaded rods. You will need your frame jigs if you have them, or a reasonably precise length measurement tool.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 M8 nuts<br />
* 4 M8 washers<br />
* 1 440mm threaded rod<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. This is your frame jig J2.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Verify that the triangle vertices have distance J1 (290mm, equivalent is 11-13/32") from plastic to plastic along each of the three sides. Once you are sure of this, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firmly attached and unable to move, but do not crush the plastic parts.<br />
# Adjust each of the bottom rods until it has distance J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") between the inside ends of the vertices. Use frame jig J2 to check this if you have it. Once you are sure this is true, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firm, but do not crush the plastic.<br />
# Adjust the top of the frame so that the distance between the inside ends of the vertices is precisely J2 (234mm, equivalent is 9-7/32") and the length of rod outside the vertex on one side is the same as the length outside the vertex on the other side. Double-check the distances before tightening the nut on the outside of the vertex.<br />
# The frame should now be fairly stable. Using a plumb line or similar (for example a nut hanging on a length of yarn), adjust the bar clamps on the bottom side of each triangle until they are close to center of the top vertices. Do not tighten the nuts either side of the bar clamps yet. These need to space the 440 mm rod exactly 1 bar clamp from the center line of the bot. This is so the polished z-rods are exactly centered with the bot and run perfectly vertical.<br />
# Insert the 440mm threaded rod through the two bar clamps on the bottom of the frame. make sure the new rod is on ''top'' of the triangle bottom rod. Adjust it so that the same length sticks out on each side.<br />
# On each side, place a nut, washer, bar clamp (threaded through the holes), washer, and another nut. The hole to which should go the z-running smooth rod should be virtually in center of bottom triangle rods. The setup should look like this when seen from below:<br />
<br/> [[File:bottom-rod.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the y axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 225x140mm print bottom plate<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 2 406mm smooth rods<br />
* 1 y timing belt<br />
* 1 NEMA 17 stepper motor<br />
* 1 pulley<br />
* 3 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 4 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>A46NKyBos_8</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>7ZBNewV_CWw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Mark each of the four corners of the print bottom plate 8mm (equivalent is ~5/16") from each side with the marker.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole in each of the four corners.<br />
# Clamp the print bottom plate and the print top plate together, so that the bottom plate is equally far from each edge of the top plate. Drill 3mm holes into the top plate through the corner holes in the bottom plate so that they match on both plates.<br />
# Slide the two 406mm smooth rods through the bar clamps on the front and rear threaded rods. They should fit <br />
snugly and be approximately parallel. <br />
# Place the narrow side of the "print bottom" plate between the rods. This ensures they are exactly 140mm (equivalent is 5-33/64") apart from each other. Adjust the nuts on the front side bar clamps until the print bottom plate just barely fits between the rods. Try to get them at an approximately equal distance from the middle of the rod. <br />
# Tighten the front nuts just enough that they do not move on their own, but no further.<br />
# Measure the distance from the left front vertex to the left smooth rod. Adjust the distance from the left rear vertex to the left smooth rod to match it. This ensures the left rod is parallel to the frame. Tighten the nuts on the left clamp just enough that they do not move around.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate next to the left smooth rod on the rear side. Adjust the right rear bar clamp's nuts until the narrow side of the bottom plate barely fits between the rods.<br />
# Recheck the distances from the left vertex to the left rod are the same at the front and rear and that the short side of the print bottom plate fits snugly between the smooth rods both at the front and at the rear. This should ensure that the rods are parallel to each other and to the frame. Use the diagram below to see what it should look like from above. <br/> [[File:y-rods.png|center]]<br />
# Tighten the nuts on all of the four bar clamps now.<br />
# Snap 2 PLA bushings onto each of the two smooth rods. Place them about 120mm apart on each rod. Make sure they slide freely on the rods. Put a dab of glue on the top side of the bushings (the side opposite the open side). Carefully place the print bottom plate on top of the bushings, so that it's equally far apart from each of the two triangles (see diagram below). Wait for the glue to dry. <br/> [[File:y-plate.png|center]]<br />
# While the glue is drying, adjust the bearing on the rear threaded rod until it is exactly across from the front threaded rod. Tighten the nuts on the y motor bracket and the bearings at this point. All nuts on the front and rear rods should now be tight.<br />
# Also while the glue is drying, ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel in the pulley that goes to the center hole.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Place the motor with the pulley on it next to the mounting holes in the y motor bracket. Position the motor the left, so that the pulley ends up on the side of the bearing.<br />
# Adjust the pulley position on the shaft so that when the motor is flush with the bracket, the teeth on the pulley are approximately at the position of the bearing.<br />
# Fasten the motor with 3 M3x10 bolts. Put a washer between each bolt and the y motor bracket.<br />
# Tighten the grub screw so that the pulley cannot move along the shaft.<br />
# Position the y belt on top of the print bottom plate and through both of the bearings. Pull lightly on both ends so that it is straight. If the belt is not straight, adjust the position of the rear bearing until it is. Use a marker to mark out the position of the belt on the print bottom plate. Also mark which side of the plate is on the left.<br />
# ''After the glue has dried,'' carefully pop the print bottom plate with the PLA bushings off the rails. Place the two belt clamps perpendicular to the marked position of the belt, several centimeters apart. Make sure the belt position is between the two holes on each clamp. Use a marker to mark where the holes of the belt clamps would be on the plate.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole through each of the four marked belt clamp holes.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate back on the smooth rods, paying attention to the marking to make sure the correct side is on the left.<br />
# Place one end of the belt, toothed side down, where the holes for the front belt clamp are. Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in one of the belt clamps. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt. Leave several centimeters of the belt behind the clamp.<br />
# Put two M3 nuts underneath the plate and thread them onto the bolts. Tighten both nuts so that the end of the belt is firmly attached to the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Pass the belt over the front bearing, around the motor pulley, and then up underneath the plate to the other bearing. Pull it tight, then lay it on top of the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Put a washer onto each of two M3x25 bolts, and thread them through the holes in the second belt clamp. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt.<br />
# Attach an M3 nut to each of the two bolts, and pull the belt tight before tightening the two nuts.<br />
# Turn the motor by hand. It should turn with little effort, and each slight rotation should be matched by a slight movement of the plate. Make sure it slides smoothly along the entire length of the rods. Pushing the plate should immediately make the motor turn. Make sure the belt is not too loose (plate and motor should not be able to move independently) or too tight (taking a lot of effort to move the plate). Once you are confident your belt tension is correct, tighten the clamps very firmly. You may now trim the belt, but leave several centimeters behind each clamp for future adjustment.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the x axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-end-motor<br />
[[File:pm-x-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP x-end-idler<br />
[[File:pm-x-idler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 495mm smooth rods<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 50mm M8 threaded rod<br />
* 3 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8 nuts<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>K9bXwOZOXps</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Drill out the center hole in the hexagonal section of the x-end-idler and x-end-motor parts to 8mm.<br />
# Take the x-end-idler. Check the size of the hole on the flat, thin side surface. If it is 4mm in diameter, enlarge it using a file until it's 8mm in diameter.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps in the long channels on the bottom of the x-end-idler. You may find pulling them into the nut trap using an M3 bolt makes it easier. Thread M3x10 bolts through them, but just far enough that they do not fall out.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps of the x-end-motor part as well. Thread M3x10 bolts through those as above.<br />
# Place the x-end-motor and x-end-idler 50cm apart, so that the hexagonal parts are facing each other.<br />
# Slide the two 495mm smooth rods into the x-end idler. Make sure they go past the nut traps.<br />
# Slide the other ends of the rods into x-end-motor. Make sure they go past the nut traps. The hexagonal sections of the motor and idler should still be facing each other.<br />
# Tighten the M3 bolts on the x-end-idler. The x-end-motor should be able to move along the rods with minor effort. Do ''not'' tighten the x-end-motor bolts yet.<br />
# Thread an M8 nut onto one end of the 50mm threaded rod. (Alternatively, you can use an M8x50 bolt)<br />
# Put the following parts in this order onto the free end of the threaded rod (behind the nut): 1 fender washer, 1 M8 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 M8 washer, 1 fender washer.<br />
# Thread the free end of the threaded rod into the side of the x-end-idler. The bearing should be on the outside. Put an M8 washer and an M8 nut on the inside and tighten both nuts.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the z axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP shaft couplers<br />
[[File:pm-coupler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP rod-clamp<br />
[[File:pm-rod-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x axis assembly (from the previous step)<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 20 M3 washers<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 8 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors<br />
* 2 210mm threaded rods <br />
* 2 330mm smooth rods<br />
* 4 M8 nuts (2 optional)<br />
* 2 8.5mm ID springs (optional)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>v_W7WPdQ3Qo</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>bCK1W3SE1Xs</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Use a spirit level to make sure the two rods at the top of the frame are horizontal. If they are not, stack bits of paper under the vertices at the bottom until they are.<br />
# Drop a plumb line (or a nut tied to a length of yarn) directly down from the indentation on the side of the left z-motor-holder. Adjust the two bar clamps at the bottom of the frame on the left side until the nut falls into the U of the outer clamp. Repeat on the other side.<br />
# Put M3 nuts into the nut traps on both z-motor-holder ends.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on 2 M3x25 bolts and thread them into the flat (non-indented) end of a rod-clamp. Attach the rod-clamp to one of the z-motor-holders. Do not tighten.<br />
# Repeat for the other z-motor-holder and rod-clamp.<br />
# Insert a 330mm smooth rod into the space between each z-motor-holder and rod-clamp. Slide it in from the top. On the bottom, insert it into the U of the bottom bar clamp.<br />
# Using the plumb line, check that the smooth rods are vertical. If they are not, adjust the bottom bar clamp positions until they are. This is critical, so take as much time as you need.<br />
# Tighten the nuts on the bar clamps and the bolts on the rod clamps. Check again with the plumb line.<br />
# Place two PLA bushings on each of the smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Position the x-axis assembly inside the frame so that the bushing channels on the x-axis-motor and x-axis-idler align with the bushings. The x-end-idler should be on the right, with the bearing on the rear side of the machine.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Push the rectangular channels of x-end-idler and x-end-motor against the flat of the bushings. Position the x-end-idler against the bushings on the right side of the machine and then slide the x-end-motor along the x-axis smooth rods until it makes contact with the bushings on the left side of the machine. Let the glue dry.<br />
# While the glue is drying, assemble the couplings. Insert an M3x25 bolt, with an M3 washer, through each of the two side holes on each coupling. Put an M3 washer and M3 nut on the other end. Do not tighten yet.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried'', slide the X axis to the top of the Z axis smooth rod, and place some kind of support underneath the x-axis smooth rods to hold it up in approximately the middle of the frame. Tighten the M3x10 screws on the bottom of the x-end-motor.<br />
#Slide X axis to the bottom of the Z axis smooth rod, if you feel the bushings binding, jog the bar clamps on both sides of the Z axis untill the bushings can travel the full length of the Z rod with no resistance.<br />
# Insert an M8 nut into the bottom of the hexagonal channel of x-end-motor. Repeat for x-end-idler.<br />
# ''(optional)'' Insert a spring into the top of the hexagonal channel of each x-end part. Insert an M8 nut on top of each spring.<br />
# Thread one end of the 210mm threaded rods into each hexagonal channel from above, compressing the top nut and spring if you have them. The threaded rod should turn freely in each channel, and the nuts should stay snugly in place. Turn the rods until about half their length sticks out from the bottom of the parts.<br />
# Place a NEMA 17 motor into each of the two z-motor-holder parts, shaft down. You may ''optionally'' fasten them from underneath with M3x10 bolts and M3 washers.<br />
# Attach the narrower end of a coupling to each of the motor shafts. Do not tighten the nuts on the coupling yet.<br />
# Turn the 210mm threaded rods so that they go upwards and enter the coupling. Screw them as far into the coupling as they will go, but do not use excessive force.<br />
# Carefully tighten the M3 nuts on both couplings.<br />
# Turn both threaded rods so that the x axis moves up. Make sure the couplings are supporting the weight.<br />
# Place a spirit level on the x-axis smooth rods. Turn the threaded rod on one side only until the x axis is level. Your Z axis is ready.<br />
<br />
=== Installing the x carriage ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-carriage<br />
[[File:pm-x-cariage.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP pulley<br />
[[File:pm-pulley.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x belt<br />
* 2 M4 nuts<br />
* 5 M3 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
* 4 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
* 1 Extruder<br />
* 1 NEMA17 stepper motor<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
<videoflash>NjowDqytHJQ</videoflash><br />
<videoflash>ahg42Vu4VLw</videoflash><br />
<br />
# Ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel on the side of the pulley rim.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Slide the pulley onto the motor shaft so that the rim comes onto the shaft last. Leave 1mm or so of shaft between the pulley and the motor body. Tighten the grub screw.<br />
# Insert the motor into the x-end-motor part so that the motor body is on the front of the machine and the pulley points towards the rear. The pulley teeth and the idler on the opposite side of the X axis should be aligned.<br />
# Fasten the motor using 4 M3x10 bolts and 4 M3 washers. The motor body should now be on top of the x-axis smooth rods.<br />
# Place 4 PLA bushings on the x-axis smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Place the x-carriage on top of the bushings, making sure they fit into the channels. The protruding part of the x-carriage with the four nut traps should be on the side of the pulley and idler, pointing towards the rear of the machine.<br />
# Wait for the glue to dry.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried,'' make sure the carriage can slide along the rods freely from end to end. Turn the entire frame around so that the rear of the machine faces towards you.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on each of two M3x25 bolts. Thread them through the holes of one belt-clamp. Repeat for the second belt-clamp.<br />
# Loosely attach one of the belt clamps to the carriage. Thread the two bolts through the holes in the carriage and attach nuts to them. Make sure there is enough space for the belt to slide between the clamp and the carriage. Repeat for the other clamp.<br />
# Slide one end of the belt through the left clamp, toothed side up. Pull several centimeters through, then tighten the clamp.<br />
# Run the belt over the 608 bearing and the motor pulley, then thread it through the other clamp, toothed side up. The belt should now form an elongated loop with the teeth on the inside of the loop. Pull the belt tight and tighten the second clamp.<br />
# Verify that the belt tension is right. Turning the motor pulley by hand should make the carriage move. The carriage should move freely along the entire length of the axis.<br />
# Use two M4x20 bolts and two M4 nuts to mount the extruder to the x-carriage.<br />
<br />
=== Wiring the electronics ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 Electronics setup (Pololu, Ramps, Gen3, Gen6, or anything else compatible)<br />
* 3 endstops<br />
* 3 RP endstop holders<br />
* 3 M3x25 bolts<br />
* 6 M3 washers<br />
* 3 M3 nuts<br />
* A lot of cable ties<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
Electronics assembly.<br />
<br />
# There are various electronics configurations out there, but thay are mostly compatible. Regardless of what electronics you have, you should have at least three stepper drivers, ideally four. Those are either integrated on the board or separate modules. Identify the motor connections for X, Y, Z and the extruder stepper (E on some setups). Also identify the connections for the heated bed (if you have one), the extruder heater connection, the extruder and heated bed thermistors, and the X, Y and Z MIN endstop connections.<br />
# Screw or glue your endstops (opto or microswitch) to the long side of the three endstop holders.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, you will need to make three opto flags. These are long, thin strips of some easily formable, opaque material, for example metal sheet from drink cans. If you are using microswitch endstops, you can skip this step. Take an empty drink can and cut three 10mmx30mm pieces from from it. These will be your optoflags.<br />
# Position your endstops on the smooth rods. Facing the front of the machine, place one on the left z smooth rod below where the x axis currently is. This is your Place one on the far left of the rear x axis smooth rod. Place the third one on the right y axis smooth rod behind the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer on an M3x25 bolt and thread it through each endstop holder, and put a washer and M3 nut on the other side. Do not tighten these nuts yet.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, glue an optoflag onto the left side of the x-carriage, the bottom of the x-motor-bracket (pointing down) and the print bottom plate, so that they go through the gap in the optoswitch as the axis slides.<br />
# You now need to determine the limits of each axis. With the extruder/hotend installed, slide the X carriage left until the nozzle is 10mm to the right from the left edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that the opto/switch is engaged in this position. If your optoflag is too long, trim it until it just barely triggers the endstop when the nozzle is in this position. Tighten the nut on the X endstop, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Slide the print bottom plate backwards until the nozzle is about 42mm (equivalent is 1-21/32") in front of the front edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that it engages when the print bottom plate is in this position. Tighten the Y endstop nut, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the Z axis moves downwards. Do not worry about the height yet. You will need to adjust the position of this endstop once the bed is installed and leveled. <br />
# Decide where your electronics will live. Mount these in place first, that will allow you to route cables easier.<br />
# Slide the X carriage as far away from the electronics as possible.<br />
# Route the cables from each of the endstops along the frame to the electronics board. Plug each one into the appropriate connector. For the X endstop, leave enough slack in the cable to allow the X axis to move along the Z all the way up and down the frame. Make sure none of the wires interfere with the movement of the axes. Use zipties to fix the wires to the frame. <br />
# Splice the Z motor wires together in parallel. If the motors are identical, join each wire with the wire of the same color, and then attach them to the connector that matches your electronics. Route the wires along the frame to your electronics board, and attach them to the Z-driver connector. Use cable ties to fix the wires to the frame.<br />
# Attach the Y motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame (making sure they don't interfere with the Y-axis movement) and attach them to your electronics at the Y-driver connector. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Attach the X motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame and attach them to your electronics at the X-driver connector. Leave enough slack for the X-axis to move all the way up and down the Z axis without getting caught on the wires. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Leaving enough slack so that the wires don't get stretched even when the X carriage is furthest away from the electronics, route the extruder motor, heater, and thermistor wires along the frame, to the electronics. Keep careful track of which wire is which. Color-coding is recommended. If your wires are not different colors, attach labels to the ends. Attach connectors to the wires to match your electronics and plug them into your electronics board. The stepper connection goes into the EXTRUDER/E connector. Tie the cables down to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Move the X and Y axes all the way in each direction, and check that no wires interfere with movement. Once done, slide each axis to approximately the middle of its range.<br />
# Get a piece of paper, and write "X, Y, Z, E" on it.<br />
# Plug in the power and USB connections to the electronics. ''From this point on, if ANYTHING acts strange, switch off power first, and figure it out later. This is extremely important!''<br />
# Connect to the electronics from a computer using repsnapper, reprap host, or replicatorg.<br />
# Stand in front of the machine. In the software, tell the X axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves to the RIGHT, write "OK" under X on your paper. If it moves to the LEFT, write "REV" under X. If it does not move write "NO" under it.<br />
# Tell the Y axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves FORWARD (towards you), write "OK" under Y. If it moves BACKWARD (away from you), write "REV" under Y. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Y on your paper.<br />
# Tell the Z axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves UP, write "OK" under Z. If it moves DOWN, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Tell the extruder to move forward (positive). If it moves in the direction that would push filament into , the nozzle, write "OK" under Z. If it moves in the opposite direction, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Close the software and ''switch off the power to the machine!''<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "REV", unplug its connector from the electronics, turn it by 180 degrees, and plug it in again. If the connector is polarized (can only be plugged in one way), you might need to reconnect the wires to the connector.<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "NO", make sure its connector is wired to the motor, and the connector is seated properly.<br />
# Repeat the test until all axes are labeled "OK". Now tell the X and Y axes to home. They should move until they reach their endstops, then stop.<br />
<br />
=== Attaching the print bed ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 4 M3x40 bolts<br />
* 4 ballpoint pen springs<br />
* 8 M3 nuts (optionally nyloc)<br />
* 16 M3 washers<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# If you have a heated build platform, install it on the print top plate at this point. Cover your top plate or build platform with whatever your build surface material will be (Kapton, blue tape, etc.) <br />
# Put a washer on each of the four M3x40 bolts.<br />
# Thread each bolt through one of the holes in the print top plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer, a ballpoint pen spring, and another M3 washer onto each bolt.<br />
# Thread a nut onto each bolt to fasten it to the print top plate. Do not tighten. This nut is only there to hold the springs in place.<br />
# Carefully place the print top plate on top of the print bottom plate. Make sure each bolt goes through one of the holes in the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer and nut on the end of each of the bolts.<br />
# Level the bed. To do this, put a spirit level on top of the bed and adjust the nuts of each of the M3 bolts until the spirit level shows the bed is level. Use the top nut to adjust the height and the bottom nut to fix it. If you have a heated build platform, put the spirit level on the platform. Once done, tighten all nuts.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the nozzle is just barely above the bed. <br />
# You are now ready to print. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
== Media ==<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyVM3-v84I0 Two printers simultaneously] - Prusa and shaper cube working side by side.<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh3S9aOMRhU Prusa homing using enstops]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8c5fB9Ozek Prusa development overview]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MvUD-tuOX0 Prusa Y axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-pDYDnHYaQ Prusa Z axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNRapg2gaPg Early preview of the Prusa Mendel redesign]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/56020395@N06/sets/72157625420636778/show/ Fumon's Prusa build session 1] - D1plo1d building Fumon's Prusa Mendel at Hacklab.to. Should give a hint as to how the Prusa Mendel parts go together.<br />
<br />
== Prusa Improvements/Hacks ==<br />
* Rob's [[Auto-centering shaft coupler]] - designed to reduce shaft/motor vibrations (print 2/replaces 2x coupler). May require widening the openings on the z motor mounts to allow the rotation of the zip tie.<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[PLA bushings]]<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
* [http://prusadjs.cz/ Prusa's Blog]<br />
* [http://feeds.feedburner.com/Prusabuilders Prusa Builder Blog Feed]<br />
* [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel assembly photo gallery]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Czech_Republic&diff=26673RUG/Czech Republic2011-01-13T19:17:04Z<p>Prusajr: </p>
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<br />
=Where to get parts=<br />
Local Shops may be better or worse than buying from online retailers. This depends on your local shops and what you're getting. Stepper motors you'll want to get online, steel rod - perhaps not. Fasteners, it depends. You may want to check your yellow pages to look these up, as opposed to online.<br />
<br />
==Plastic parts==<br />
*[[http://josefprusa.cz/ Prusajr]] prints<br />
*[[http://diy4fun.blogspot.com/ Miroslav Batek]] has printing Mendel too, dunno if he prints parts.<br />
*[[http://brmlab.cz Brmlab hackerspace]] is building Prusa Mendel, few weeks to finish (5.1.2011)<br />
<br />
==Electronics==<br />
* [http://shop.snailinstruments.com SnailInstruments] - Ovladače krokových motorů (Beroun)<br />
* [http://www.czechduino.cz CzechDuriono] - Arduino desky a příslušenství (Plzeň)<br />
[[User:Prusajr]] Suggests to buy electronics online from reprapsource.com or ultimachine.com<br />
<br />
<br />
==Motors==<br />
All local stuff is extreamly pricey. <br />
[[http://www.slidesandballscrews.com/ Zapp]] is best, but from UK tho :-/<br />
<br />
==Mechanical stuff==<br />
[[http://www.ferona.cz/ Ferona]] carries all and is in Prague. Local shops should be fine too.<br />
<br />
==Belts==<br />
[[http://www.tyma.cz/ Tyma]] has belts and pulleys. Pricier then online sources tho.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=Meetings=<br />
==Location==<br />
[[User:Prusajr|Prusajr's]] House, <br />
=Free Beer=<br />
*Granát, Plzeň<br />
*(bring pretzels)<br />
<br />
RepRap [[Map]] link.<br />
<br />
==Time==<br />
''Arbitrarily: 7pm Tuesday every other week, starting with the second Tuesday in January. (edit this)''<br />
<br />
=Nearby Robot Hobby Clubs=<br />
* local First Robotics Competition<br />
* local [[RoboOne]] and [[Robot]] hobby group.<br />
<br />
=Keyword searches to help you find Geek Groups Meetups=<br />
(keywords: your town, artist-run center, artbot, barcamp, dorkbot, experimental media, ham radio, linux, arduino, blender, circuit bending, RC aircraft, rocketry, cnc, etc.)<br />
This will require a few google searches, where you enter your town and one of the keywords above into the following string:<br />
"Your Town" keyword (meetup OR meeting OR group OR club OR society OR workshop OR hobby)<br />
[dorkbot.org]<br />
[www.arduino.cc]<br />
<br />
* Local/Nearest FabLab or Techshop, <br />
<br />
* Community College with a Machine Shop that people can use?<br />
<br />
* CNC Group Meetups on cnczone.com or otherwise<br />
[www.google.ca]<br />
<br />
=Official RepRap Suppliers=<br />
*http://dev.forums.reprap.org/index.php?93<br />
*[[Suppliers]]<br />
<br />
=Members=<br />
*[[User:Prusajr]]<br />
*[[User:Qantip]]<br />
*[[User:Example User]]<br />
*<br />
*<br />
<br />
=Projects=<br />
*[[Example|A Cool Bipedal Robot]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:RUG]]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel&diff=26409Prusa Mendel2011-01-08T18:42:44Z<p>Prusajr: Better parts pictures</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Prusa Mendel<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = assembled-prusa-mendel.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of normal [[Mendel]].<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Prusajr (design), Kliment (maintenance and documentation)<br />
|reprap = Mendel<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Mendel Variations|Mendel Variations]][[Category:Mendel Variations]],<br />
}}<br />
<br />
Also see [[SAE Prusa Mendel]] if you are building this machine using SAE (Imperial) Fasterers<br />
<br />
The Prusa Mendel is a simpler remix of the original [[Mendel]]. I wanted to use bushings instead of regular bearings. The current version uses three 608 bearings in total, one for the X and two for the Y axis. The 624 bearings are gone altogether.<br />
I have the entire machine up and running, with my printed PLA bushings. It's pretty smooth.<br />
<br/><br />
__TOC__<br />
<div style="clear:both"></div><br />
<videoflash>tyVM3-v84I0</videoflash><br />
<br />
== Development ==<br />
The development of the Prusa Mendel is hosted on github: http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel<br />
<br />
You can follow the changes on [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/commits/master Changelog]<br />
<br />
You can sign up for github for free and fork the project to begin working on it.<br />
<br />
=== History ===<br />
* http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-pla-bushings.html<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials ==<br />
<br />
=== Printed Parts ===<br />
2x coupling RP<br />
3x endstop-holder RP<br />
1x x-carriage RP<br />
1x x-end-idler RP<br />
1x x-end-motor RP<br />
1x y-motor-bracket RP<br />
2x z-motor-mount RP<br />
4x belt-clamp RP<br />
8x bar-clamp RP<br />
2x rod-clamp RP<br />
2x pulley RP<br />
AND EITHER<br />
6x frame-vertex RP<br />
OR<br />
4x frame-vertex with foot RP<br />
2x frame-vertex RP<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Printed Bushings ====<br />
12x pla-bushing RP-PLA (check your build file, the file makes either 4 or 12.)<br />
<br />
=== Non-Printed Parts ("vitamins") ===<br />
(necessary)<br />
82x M8 nut Fastener (buy a 100-pack to be on the safe side. These are useful)<br />
90x M8 washer Fastener (again, buy a 100-pack.)<br />
18x M4x20 bolt Fastener<br />
4x M4x40 bolt (extruder) Fastener<br />
24x M4 nut Fastener<br />
38x M4 washer Fastener<br />
20x M3x10 bolt Fastener<br />
4x M3x20 bolt Fastener<br />
4x M3x40 bolt Fastener<br />
32x M3 washer Fastener<br />
21x M3 nut (8 optionally nyloc) Fastener<br />
2x M3 grub screw Fastener<br />
6x M8x30 Mudguard/fender washers Fastener<br />
3x 608 Bearing Bearings<br />
4x Ballpoint pen springs Spring<br />
6x M8x370mm side Threaded rod<br />
4x M8x294mm front/rear Threaded rod<br />
3x M8x440mm top/bottom Threaded rod<br />
2x M8x210mm Z-leadscrew Threaded rod<br />
1x M8x50mm threaded rod or bolt for X idler Threaded rod<br />
2x 8mmx495mm X-bar Smooth rod<br />
2x 8mmx406mm Y-bar Smooth rod<br />
2x 8mmx350mm Z-bar Smooth rod<br />
1x 225mmx225mm print top plate Thick Sheet<br />
1x 140mmx225mm print bottom plate. Thick Sheet<br />
1x 840mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
1x 1380mmx5mm T5 pitch timing belt Belt<br />
5x Nema 17 bipolar NEMA Stepper<br />
50x Small cable binder/ziptie Misc.<br />
1x [[Wade's Geared Extruder]] (or any other compatible extruder)<br />
1x Electronics + endstops. This can be [[RAMPS]],[[Pololu Electronics]],[[Generation_6_Electronics|Gen6]],[[Generation_3_Electronics|Gen3]],or anything else compatible<br />
(optional)<br />
3x 30mmx10mm Optoflags (if using opto endstops) Thin, stiff, opaque sheet<br />
2x 8mm ID spring Spring<br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. <br />
1x piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. <br />
(You can combine the latter two by having a piece of thick sheet with dimensions 290x234. Make sure to mark which side is which.)<br />
<br />
When cutting the threaded rods from 1m lengths, you will need 6x 1m pieces (or 5x 1m pieces and 1x 50cm piece). Cut them as follows:<br />
Rod 1: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm (the last piece will turn up somewhat shorter than 50mm. Use it for your idler)<br />
Rod 2: 370mm, 370mm, 210mm, ~50mm<br />
Rod 3: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 4: 370mm, 294mm, 294mm, ~42mm<br />
Rod 5: 440mm, 440mm, ~120mm<br />
Rod 6: 440mm<br />
<br />
(The Prusa Mendel uses the 4 drivers in the standard Mendel electronics package to drive 5 motors by using "two steppers wired in parallel to one driver"[http://blog.reprap.org/2010/10/story-of-simpler-mendel-y-and-z-axes.html]).<br />
<br />
== Printing the Parts ==<br />
[[File:Prusa.jpg|right|thumbnail|300px|A printed set of Prusa Mendel parts]]<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a Mendel ===<br />
An easier option then individually printing each part if you are printing Prusa on a RepRap Mendel is the pre-assembled build file containing the Prusa parts. With this option you only need to print the Mendel plate and the PLA bushings to get a complete Prusa Mendel:<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/plate1.stl Mendel Plate] (contains all printed parts except the PLA Bushings)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/pla-bushing.stl PLA Bushing]<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on a [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]] ===<br />
There are also pre-assembled build files available to fit your [[Pirated CupCake|CupCake CNC]]'s build area (download using right click => save as)<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' <br />
* These plates use the full surface of the build platform, so remove '''bolts''' if necessary. <br />
<br />
Plates for the MakerBot (The plates have changed, these print times are no longer accurate): <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/mbotplate1.stl Makerbot Plate 1]=> 6 hrs 30 min <br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/mbotplate2.stl Makerbot Plate 2]=> ~2 hrs 30 min (needs retesting)<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/mbotplate3.stl Makerbot Plate 3]=> 5 hrs 40 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/mbotplate4.stl Makerbot Plate 4]=> 2 hrs 30 min<br />
* [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/raw/master/mbotplate5.stl Makerbot Plate 5] => 1 hr 50 min<br />
<br />
=== Printing a Prusa on anything else ===<br />
Last but not least, if you have a machine that doesn't fit into any of the previous options all the .stl files necessary to print a Prusa Mendel are available on the [http://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel PrusaMendel Github] where you can download them and print them individually.<br />
<br />
=== Buy the printed parts ===<br />
Support the community by buying printed parts from makers. Ask on IRC, go thru forum. <br />
Ppl who can print Prusa Mendel are (feel free to add yourself!)<br />
*[[User:Prusajr|Prusajr]] (EU)<br />
*[[User:Kliment|Kliment]] (EU)<br />
*Sikko (EU)<br />
*Spacexula (USA)<br />
<br />
If you cant find anyone, here are commercial sources<br />
[http://www.emakershop.com/ eMAKERshop]<br />
<br />
== Assembly ==<br />
<br />
For the visually oriented, have a look at this [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel photo gallery] of an ongoing Mendel Prusa build.<br />
<br />
===Assembling the frame vertex triangles (2x)===<br />
<br />
This part takes 15 minutes per triangle to assemble, for a total of 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
There is a triangle on each side of the Prusa RepRap, you will need to make 2 of these and then connect them together (see next step) to form the Prusa frame. Each side is an equilateral triangle with a frame vertex on each corner. You can use either footed or non-footed vertices to build this (the footed ones look better, but are not critical.) The instructions assume you are using footed vertices.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required (per triangle)'''<br />
* 2 RP footed frame vertices<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-foot.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP frame vertex (non-footed)<br />
[[File:pm-frame-vertex-footless.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP bar clamp<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 3 370mm M8 threaded rods<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Take one of the 370mm threaded rods, and slip an M8 washer onto the middle of it.<br />
# Take the RP bar clamp (the U-shaped bit with the two holes) and slide the threaded rod through the two holes until the clamp sits next to the washer.<br />
# Slide another washer onto the rod from the other side.<br />
# Thread two M8 nuts onto either side of the clamp, until they are next to the washer, but do not tighten them yet.<br />
# Thread another two nuts on each side of the rod, followed by washers. See the picture for what it should look like. <flickr>5188262096|thumb|right|m|The bar clamp on the threaded rod.</flickr><br />
# Slide the rod through the long bottom (footed) side of two vertices. Make sure the feet point in the same direction. Also make sure the bulge on the non-footed side of the vertex points outwards.<br />
# Measure the distance. The distance between the two vertices should be 290mm (along the rod). Get it approximately right now, we will check this again later. If you have a frame jig, place it between the two vertices and adjust the nuts until you can just barely fit the jig J1 between them.<br />
# Place another washer and nut on the other side of the vertex. Tighten, but not too much. We'll need a bit of flexibility here still.<br />
# Take another 370mm M8 threaded rod and place a nut followed by a washer at each end.<br />
# Place one end of the threaded rod into the one of the two footed frame vertices. It should be in the same plane as the first threaded rod. fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have two sides of the equilateral triangle.<br />
# Take the third piece of threaded rod and put a nut and washer on each end. Place it in the other footed vertex and fix it in place with a washer and nut. You should now have a triangle of threaded rods with two footed vertices on two of the corners, nothing in the third corner, and a bar clamp between the two vertices.<br />
# Take the third vertex (non-footed) and slide it onto the threaded rods in the final corner of the triangle. Measure the lenghts of the three sides to make sure they are all 290mm long (along the rod from plastic part to plastic part). Adjust the nuts to make sure this is so. Use the frame jig J1 if you have one. Once done, place a washer and nut on the top of the vertex. Tighten all the outer nuts. <br />
<flickr>5188259098|thumb|right|m|The finished frame triangle </flickr><br />
# You should now have a sturdy triangle with equal-length sides, two feet on the bottom, and a bar clamp between the feet. Adjust the nuts around the bar clamp (but do not crush the bar clamp together yet) until it's approximately in the middle of the rod. Leave the nuts there loose. See photo for what you should have at this point.<br />
# That's it, that's one of the triangles done. Repeat the entire procedure for the second triangle. It is exactly identical to the first.<br />
<br />
Now we need to connect the 2 frame triangles to form the Prusa RepRap frame.<br />
<br />
The easiest way to do this is to thread everything onto the front and rear threaded rods and attach those to the triangles first, and then thread the top rods through. That's what the instructions below assume you are doing.<br />
<br style="clear:both"/><br />
<br />
=== Assembling the front threaded rods ===<br />
This step takes about 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the front/bottom vertex of each triangle as well as the y-stage bars and y motor mount to the frame.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP y motor bracket<br />
[[File:pm-y-motor-bracket.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 16 M8 nuts<br />
* 17 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods.<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Thread an M8 nut onto the middle of the rod. Slide an M8 washer next to it. <br />
# Thread the rod through the bottom hole of the RP y-motor-bracket. The bottom hole is the one with the odd-shaped (not circular) hole next to it.<br />
# Slide another washer onto the other side of the rod and add another M8 nut to hold it in place.<br />
# Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, the y-motor-bracket (with the circular hole pointing towards you), 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# When you hold it with the bigger part (with the circular hole) of the motor bracket ''towards you'', it should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:front-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# You can now attach this setup to the triangle sides. Make sure the bigger part of the motor bracket points '''OUT''' of the triangle. Thread the ends of the rods through two of the footed vertices. Put a washer and nut on the end of each threaded rod.<br />
It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:front-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the rear threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 20 minutes.<br />
<br />
These 2 threaded rods are used to connect the back/bottom vertex of the 2 triangles together as well as the y-stage bars and belt pulley.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 14 M8 nuts<br />
* 14 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 294mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Thread the bottom rod first. Add a nut and washer to each end of the rod.<br />
# Now thread the top rod. This is again a complicated one, so make sure you get it all done in the right order. From left to right, the rod should have: 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 fender/mudguard washer, 1 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 washer,1 fender/mudguard washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer, 1 bar clamp (threaded through the holes), 1 washer, 2 nuts, 1 washer. <br />
# It should look like the picture below. Verify this now. <br/>[[File:rear-rods-bare.png|center]]<br />
# Attach the two rods to the two remaining footed vertices. Thread each end of the rod through the vertex, and add a washer and nut. It should now look like this: <br/> [[File:rear-rods.png|center]]<br />
<br />
Your frame should now be standing on its own feet without support, but the tops sides of the triangles will still be wobbly. We'll fix that next.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the top threaded rods ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
These connect the 2 frame triangles at their tops as well as providing mounts for the z-axis motors.<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 assembled and connected frame vertex triangles<br />
* 2 RP z motor mounts<br />
[[File:pm-z-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 12 M8 nuts<br />
* 16 M8 washers<br />
* 2 440mm threaded rods<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Slide one of the threaded rods through one side of one of the top vertices. Put a washer, two nuts, and another washer on the part of the rod between the top vertices. This is what it should look like when seen from above: <br/> [[File:top-step1.png|center]]<br />
# Repeat for the other rod. It should now look like this:<br/>[[File:top-step2.png|center]]<br />
# Slide the rods through the opposite side vertex. Thread the nuts up to the vertices on each side.<br />
# To each of the four ends of the threaded rod, add a washer, a nut and another washer. Your setup should now look like this: <br/>[[File:top-step3.png|center]]<br />
# Take one of the RP z motor mounts and attach it to the ends of the threaded rod. The side with the two holes and the indentation should point towards the ''outside''. Add a washer and nut to the end of each rod.<br />
# Repeat this on the other side. The top of the machine should now look like this: <br/> [[File:top.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Tightening the frame ===<br />
<br />
This step takes about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Now that the frame is fully assembled we can adjust and tighten each of its threaded rods. You will need your frame jigs if you have them, or a reasonably precise length measurement tool.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP bar clamps<br />
[[File:pm-bar-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 4 M8 nuts<br />
* 4 M8 washers<br />
* 1 440mm threaded rod<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 290mm length. This is your frame jig J1.<br />
* (optional but recommended)A piece of threaded rod or wood or any other material with precisely 234mm length. This is your frame jig J2.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Verify that the triangle vertices have distance J1 (290mm) from plastic to plastic along each of the three sides. Once you are sure of this, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firmly attached and unable to move, but do not crush the plastic parts.<br />
# Adjust each of the bottom rods until it has distance J2 (234mm) between the inside ends of the vertices. Use frame jig J2 to check this if you have it. Once you are sure this is true, tighten the outer vertex nuts until they are firm, but do not crush the plastic.<br />
# Adjust the top of the frame so that the distance between the inside ends of the vertices is precisely J2 (234mm) and the length of rod outside the vertex on one side is the same as the length outside the vertex on the other side. Double-check the distances before tightening the nut on the outside of the vertex.<br />
# The frame should now be fairly stable. Using a plumb line or similar (for example a nut hanging on a length of yarn), adjust the bar clamps on the bottom side of each triangle until they are directly below the middle of the top vertices. Do not tighten the nuts either side of the bar clamps yet.<br />
# Insert the 440mm threaded rod through the two bar clamps on the bottom of the frame. make sure the new rod is on ''top'' of the triangle bottom rod. Adjust it so that the same length sticks out on each side.<br />
# On each side, place a nut, washer, bar clamp (threaded through the holes), washer, and another nut. The setup should look like this when seen from below:<br />
<br/> [[File:bottom-rod.png|center]]<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the y axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
[[File:pm-bushings.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 225x140mm print bottom plate<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 2 406mm smooth rods<br />
* 1 y timing belt<br />
* 1 NEMA 17 stepper motor<br />
* 1 pulley<br />
* 4 M3x20 bolts<br />
* 4 M3 washers<br />
* 1 M3 nut<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
* 4 M4x20 bolts<br />
* 4 M4 washers<br />
* 4 M4 nuts<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Mark each of the four corners of the print bottom plate 8mm from each side with the marker.<br />
# Carefully drill a 3mm hole in each of the four corners.<br />
# Clamp the print bottom plate and the print top plate together, so that the bottom plate is equally far from each edge of the top plate. Drill 3mm holes into the top plate through the corner holes in the bottom plate so that they match on both plates.<br />
# Slide the two 406mm smooth rods through the bar clamps on the front and rear threaded rods. They should fit <br />
snugly and be approximately parallel. <br />
# Place the narrow side of the "print bottom" plate between the rods. This ensures they are exactly 140mm apart from each other. Adjust the nuts on the front side bar clamps until the print bottom plate just barely fits between the rods. Try to get them at an approximately equal distance from the middle of the rod. <br />
# Tighten the front nuts just enough that they do not move on their own, but no further.<br />
# Measure the distance from the left front vertex to the left smooth rod. Adjust the distance from the left rear vertex to the left smooth rod to match it. This ensures the left rod is parallel to the frame. Tighten the nuts on the left clamp just enough that they do not move around.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate next to the left smooth rod on the rear side. Adjust the right rear bar clamp's nuts until the narrow side of the bottom plate barely fits between the rods.<br />
# Recheck the distances from the left vertex to the left rod are the same at the front and rear and that the short side of the print bottom plate fits snugly between the smooth rods both at the front and at the rear. This should ensure that the rods are parallel to each other and to the frame. Use the diagram below to see what it should look like from above. <br/> [[File:y-rods.png|center]]<br />
# Tighten the nuts on all of the four bar clamps now.<br />
# Snap 2 PLA bushings onto each of the two smooth rods. Place them about 120cm apart on each rod. Make sure they slide freely on the rods. Put a dab of glue on the top side of the bushings (the side opposite the open side). Carefully place the print bottom plate on top of the bushings, so that it's equally far apart from each of the two triangles (see diagram below). Wait for the glue to dry. <br/> [[File:y-plate.png|center]]<br />
# While the glue is drying, adjust the bearing on the rear threaded rod until it is exactly across from the front threaded rod. Tighten the nuts on the y motor bracket and the bearings at this point. All nuts on the front and rear rods should now be tight.<br />
# Also while the glue is drying, ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel in the pulley that goes to the center hole.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Slide the motor shaft with the pulley on it through the circular hole in the y motor bracket. Slide it in from the left, so that the pulley ends up on the side of the bearing.<br />
# Adjust the pulley position on the shaft so that when the motor is flush with the bracket, the teeth on the pulley are approximately at the position of the bearing.<br />
# Carefully slide the motor back out, without changing the position of the pulley on the shaft, and tighten the grub screw so that the pulley cannot move along the shaft.<br />
# Slide the motor back in, and fasten it with 4 M3x20 bolts. Put a washer between each bolt and the y motor bracket.<br />
# Position the y belt on top of the print bottom plate and through both of the bearings. Pull lightly on both ends so that it is straight. If the belt is not straight, adjust the position of the rear bearing until it is. Use a marker to mark out the position of the belt on the print bottom plate. Also mark which side of the plate is on the left.<br />
# ''After the glue has dried,'' carefully pop the print bottom plate with the PLA bushings off the rails. Place the two belt clamps perpendicular to the marked position of the belt, several centimeters apart. Make sure the belt position is between the two holes on each clamp. Use a marker to mark where the holes of the belt clamps would be on the plate.<br />
# Carefully drill a 4mm hole through each of the four marked belt clamp holes.<br />
# Place the print bottom plate back on the smooth rods, paying attention to the marking to make sure the correct side is on the left.<br />
# Place one end of the belt, toothed side down, where the holes for the front belt clamp are. Put a washer onto each of two M4x20 bolts, and thread them through the holes in one of the belt clamps. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt. Leave several centimeters of the belt behind the clamp.<br />
# Put two M4 nuts underneath the plate and thread them onto the bolts. Tighten both nuts so that the end of the belt is firmly attached to the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Pass the belt over the front bearing, around the motor pulley, and then up underneath the plate to the other bearing. Pull it tight, then lay it on top of the plate, toothed side down.<br />
# Put a washer onto each of two M4x20 bolts, and thread them through the holes in the second belt clamp. Then attach the clamp to the top of the plate, clamping down the belt.<br />
# Attach an M4 nut to each of the two bolts, and pull the belt tight before tightening the two nuts.<br />
# Turn the motor by hand. It should turn with little effort, and each slight rotation should be matched by a slight movement of the plate. Make sure it slides smoothly along the entire length of the rods. Pushing the plate should immediately make the motor turn. Make sure the belt is not too loose (plate and motor should not be able to move independently) or too tight (taking a lot of effort to move the plate). Once you are confident your belt tension is correct, tighten the clamps very firmly. You may now trim the belt, but leave several centimeters behind each clamp for future adjustment.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the x axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-end-motor<br />
[[File:pm-x-motor.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP x-end-idler<br />
[[File:pm-x-idler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 495mm smooth rods<br />
* 8 M3 nuts<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 1 608 bearing<br />
* 2 M8x30 fender/mudguard washers<br />
* 1 50mm M8 threaded rod<br />
* 3 M8 washers<br />
* 2 M8 nuts<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Drill out the center hole in the hexagonal section of the x-end-idler and x-end-motor parts to 8mm.<br />
# Take the x-end-idler. Check the size of the hole on the flat, thin side surface. If it is 4mm in diameter, enlarge it using a file until it's 8mm in diameter.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps in the long channels on the bottom of the x-end-idler. You may find pulling them into the nut trap using an M3 bolt makes it easier. Thread M3x10 bolts through them, but just far enough that they do not fall out.<br />
# Place 4 M3 nuts in the nut traps of the x-end-motor part as well. Thread M3x10 bolts through those as above.<br />
# Place the x-end-motor and x-end-idler 50cm apart, so that the hexagonal parts are facing each other.<br />
# Slide the two 495mm smooth rods into the x-end idler. Make sure they go past the nut traps.<br />
# Slide the other ends of the rods into x-end-motor. Make sure they go past the nut traps. The hexagonal sections of the motor and idler should still be facing each other.<br />
# Tighten the M3 bolts on the x-end-idler. The x-end-motor should be able to move along the rods with minor effort. Do ''not'' tighten the x-end-motor bolts yet.<br />
# Thread an M8 nut onto one end of the 50mm threaded rod. (Alternatively, you can use an M8x50 bolt)<br />
# Put the following parts in this order onto the free end of the threaded rod (behind the nut): 1 fender washer, 1 M8 washer, 1 608 bearing, 1 M8 washer, 1 fender washer.<br />
# Thread the free end of the threaded rod into the side of the x-end-idler. The bearing should be on the outside. Put an M8 washer and an M8 nut on the inside and tighten both nuts.<br />
<br />
=== Assembling the z axis ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 2 RP shaft couplers<br />
[[File:pm-coupler.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP rod-clamp<br />
[[File:pm-rod-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x axis assembly (from the previous step)<br />
* 8 M4 nuts<br />
* 12 M4 washers<br />
* 8 M4x20 bolts<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
* 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors<br />
* 2 210mm threaded rods <br />
* 2 330mm smooth rods<br />
* 4 M8 nuts (2 optional)<br />
* 2 8.5mm ID springs (optional)<br />
* 8 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 8 M3 washers<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Use a spirit level to make sure the two rods at the top of the frame are horizontal. If they are not, stack bits of paper under the vertices at the bottom until they are.<br />
# Drop a plumb line (or a nut tied to a length of yarn) directly down from the indentation on the side of the left z-motor-holder. Adjust the two bar clamps at the bottom of the frame on the left side until the nut falls into the U of the outer clamp. Repeat on the other side.<br />
# Put M4 nuts into the nut traps on both z-motor-holder ends.<br />
# Put an M4 washer on 2 M4x20 bolts and thread them into the flat (non-indented) end of a rod-clamp. Attach the rod-clamp to one of the z-motor-holders. Do not tighten.<br />
# Repeat for the other z-motor-holder and rod-clamp.<br />
# Insert a 330mm smooth rod into the space between each z-motor-holder and rod-clamp. Slide it in from the top. On the bottom, insert it into the U of the bottom bar clamp.<br />
# Using the plumb line, check that the smooth rods are vertical. If they are not, adjust the bottom bar clamp positions until they are. This is critical, so take as much time as you need.<br />
# Tighten the nuts on the bar clamps and the bolts on the rod clamps. Check again with the plumb line.<br />
# Place two PLA bushings on each of the smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Position the x-axis assembly inside the frame so that the bushing channels on the x-axis-motor and x-axis-idler align with the bushings. The x-end-idler should be on the right, with the bearing on the rear side of the machine.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Push the rectangular channels of x-end-idler and x-end-motor against the flat of the bushings. Position the x-end-idler against the bushings on the right side of the machine and then slide the x-end-motor along the x-axis smooth rods until it makes contact with the bushings on the left side of the machine. Let the glue dry.<br />
# While the glue is drying, assemble the couplings. Insert an M4x20 bolt, with an M4 washer, through each of the two side holes on each coupling. Put an M4 washer and M4 nut on the other end. Do not tighten yet.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried'', slide the X axis up, and place some kind of support underneath the x-axis smooth rods to hold it up in approximately the middle of the frame. Tighten the M3x10 screws on the bottom of the x-end-motor.<br />
# Insert an M8 nut into the bottom of the hexagonal channel of x-end-motor. Repeat for x-end-idler.<br />
# ''(optional)'' Insert a spring into the top of the hexagonal channel of each x-end part. Insert an M8 nut on top of each spring.<br />
# Thread one end of the 210mm threaded rods into each hexagonal channel from above, compressing the top nut and spring if you have them. The threaded rod should turn freely in each channel, and the nuts should stay snugly in place. Turn the rods until about half their length sticks out from the bottom of the parts.<br />
# Place a NEMA 17 motor into each of the two z-motor-holder parts, shaft down. You may ''optionally'' fasten them from underneath with M3x10 bolts and M3 washers.<br />
# Attach the narrower end of a coupling to each of the motor shafts. Do not tighten the nuts on the coupling yet.<br />
# Turn the 210mm threaded rods so that they go upwards and enter the coupling. Screw them as far into the coupling as they will go, but do not use excessive force.<br />
# Carefully tighten the M4 nuts on both couplings.<br />
# Turn both threaded rods so that the x axis moves up. Make sure the couplings are supporting the weight.<br />
# Place a spirit level on the x-axis smooth rods. Turn the threaded rod on one side only until the x axis is level. Your Z axis is ready.<br />
<br />
=== Installing the x carriage ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 RP x-carriage<br />
[[File:pm-x-cariage.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 RP pulley<br />
[[File:pm-pulley.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 2 RP belt clamps<br />
[[File:pm-belt-clamp.jpg|frameless|borderless|]]<br />
* 1 x belt<br />
* 6 M4 nuts<br />
* 1 M3 nut<br />
* 1 M3 grub screw<br />
* 4 M3x10 bolts<br />
* 4 M3 washers<br />
* 1 Extruder<br />
* 4 PLA bushings<br />
* 1 NEMA17 stepper motor<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# Ensure that the hole in the center of the pulley matches your motor shaft (it should slide on and fit very snugly). If it is too tight to fit, drill it out.<br />
# Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the pulley bottom. You may need to widen the slot slightly to do this. Make sure that the center of the nut is aligned with the channel on the side of the pulley rim.<br />
# Once you are satisfied with the position of the nut, insert an M3 grub screw into the channel on the rim of the hub. Tighten it until you see the end of the screw inside the center hole. Then unscrew it enough to slide the pulley onto the motor shaft.<br />
# Slide the pulley onto the motor shaft so that the rim comes onto the shaft last. Leave 1mm or so of shaft between the pulley and the motor body. Tighten the grub screw.<br />
# Insert the motor into the x-end-motor part so that the motor body is on the front of the machine and the pulley points towards the rear. The pulley teeth and the idler on the opposite side of the X axis should be aligned.<br />
# Fasten the motor using 4 M3x10 bolts and 4 M3 washers. The motor body should now be on top of the x-axis smooth rods.<br />
# Place 4 PLA bushings on the x-axis smooth rods. Make sure they slide freely.<br />
# Put a blob of glue on the flat side of each bushing.<br />
# Place the x-carriage on top of the bushings, making sure they fit into the channels. The protruding part of the x-carriage with the four nut traps should be on the side of the pulley and idler, pointing towards the rear of the machine.<br />
# Wait for the glue to dry.<br />
# ''Once the glue has dried,'' make sure the carriage can slide along the rods freely from end to end. Turn the entire frame around so that the rear of the machine faces towards you.<br />
# Put an M4 washer on each of two M4x20 bolts. Thread them through the holes of one belt-clamp. Repeat for the second belt-clamp.<br />
# Loosely attach one of the belt clamps to the carriage. Thread the two bolts through the holes in the carriage and attach nuts to them. Make sure there is enough space for the belt to slide between the clamp and the carriage. Repeat for the other clamp.<br />
# Slide one end of the belt through the left clamp, toothed side up. Pull several centimeters through, then tighten the clamp.<br />
# Run the belt over the 608 bearing and the motor pulley, then thread it through the other clamp, toothed side up. The belt should now form an elongated loop with the teeth on the inside of the loop. Pull the belt tight and tighten the second clamp.<br />
# Verify that the belt tension is right. Turning the motor pulley by hand should make the carriage move. The carriage should move freely along the entire length of the axis.<br />
# Use two M4x20 bolts and two M4 nuts to mount the extruder to the x-carriage.<br />
<br />
=== Wiring the electronics ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 Electronics setup (Pololu, Ramps, Gen3, Gen6, or anything else compatible)<br />
* 3 endstops<br />
* 3 RP endstop holders<br />
* 3 M4x20 bolts<br />
* 6 M4 washers<br />
* 3 M4 nuts<br />
* A lot of cable ties<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
Electronics assembly.<br />
<br />
# There are various electronics configurations out there, but thay are mostly compatible. Regardless of what electronics you have, you should have at least three stepper drivers, ideally four. Those are either integrated on the board or separate modules. Identify the motor connections for X, Y, Z and the extruder stepper (E on some setups). Also identify the connections for the heated bed (if you have one), the extruder heater connection, the extruder and heated bed thermistors, and the X, Y and Z MIN endstop connections.<br />
# Screw or glue your endstops (opto or microswitch) to the long side of the three endstop holders.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, you will need to make three opto flags. These are long, thin strips of some easily formable, opaque material, for example metal sheet from drink cans. If you are using microswitch endstops, you can skip this step. Take an empty drink can and cut three 10mmx30mm pieces from from it. These will be your optoflags.<br />
# Position your endstops on the smooth rods. Facing the front of the machine, place one on the left z smooth rod below where the x axis currently is. This is your Place one on the far left of the rear x axis smooth rod. Place the third one on the right y axis smooth rod behind the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M4 washer on an M4x20 bolt and thread it through each endstop holder, and put a washer and M4 nut on the other side. Do not tighten these nuts yet.<br />
# If you are using opto endstops, glue an optoflag onto the left side of the x-carriage, the bottom of the x-motor-bracket (pointing down) and the print bottom plate, so that they go through the gap in the optoswitch as the axis slides.<br />
# You now need to determine the limits of each axis. With the extruder/hotend installed, slide the X carriage left until the nozzle is 10mm to the right from the left edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that the opto/switch is engaged in this position. If your optoflag is too long, trim it until it just barely triggers the endstop when the nozzle is in this position. Tighten the nut on the X endstop, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Slide the print bottom plate backwards until the nozzle is about 42mm in front of the front edge of the print bottom plate. Reposition the endstop so that it engages when the print bottom plate is in this position. Tighten the Y endstop nut, being careful not to move it.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the Z axis moves downwards. Do not worry about the height yet. You will need to adjust the position of this endstop once the bed is installed and leveled. <br />
# Decide where your electronics will live. Mount these in place first, that will allow you to route cables easier.<br />
# Slide the X carriage as far away from the electronics as possible.<br />
# Route the cables from each of the endstops along the frame to the electronics board. Plug each one into the appropriate connector. For the X endstop, leave enough slack in the cable to allow the X axis to move along the Z all the way up and down the frame. Make sure none of the wires interfere with the movement of the axes. Use zipties to fix the wires to the frame. <br />
# Splice the Z motor wires together in parallel. If the motors are identical, join each wire with the wire of the same color, and then attach them to the connector that matches your electronics. Route the wires along the frame to your electronics board, and attach them to the Z-driver connector. Use cable ties to fix the wires to the frame.<br />
# Attach the Y motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame (making sure they don't interfere with the Y-axis movement) and attach them to your electronics at the Y-driver connector. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Attach the X motor wires to the connector that matches the electronics, route them along the frame and attach them to your electronics at the X-driver connector. Leave enough slack for the X-axis to move all the way up and down the Z axis without getting caught on the wires. Fix the wires to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Leaving enough slack so that the wires don't get stretched even when the X carriage is furthest away from the electronics, route the extruder motor, heater, and thermistor wires along the frame, to the electronics. Keep careful track of which wire is which. Color-coding is recommended. If your wires are not different colors, attach labels to the ends. Attach connectors to the wires to match your electronics and plug them into your electronics board. The stepper connection goes into the EXTRUDER/E connector. Tie the cables down to the frame with zipties.<br />
# Move the X and Y axes all the way in each direction, and check that no wires interfere with movement. Once done, slide each axis to approximately the middle of its range.<br />
# Get a piece of paper, and write "X, Y, Z, E" on it.<br />
# Plug in the power and USB connections to the electronics. ''From this point on, if ANYTHING acts strange, switch off power first, and figure it out later. This is extremely important!''<br />
# Connect to the electronics from a computer using repsnapper, reprap host, or replicatorg.<br />
# Stand in front of the machine. In the software, tell the X axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves to the RIGHT, write "OK" under X on your paper. If it moves to the LEFT, write "REV" under X. If it does not move write "NO" under it.<br />
# Tell the Y axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves FORWARD (towards you), write "OK" under Y. If it moves BACKWARD (away from you), write "REV" under Y. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Y on your paper.<br />
# Tell the Z axis to move forward (positive) by 10mm. If it moves UP, write "OK" under Z. If it moves DOWN, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Tell the extruder to move forward (positive). If it moves in the direction that would push filament into , the nozzle, write "OK" under Z. If it moves in the opposite direction, write "REV" under Z. If the axis does not move, write "NO" under Z on your paper.<br />
# Close the software and ''switch off the power to the machine!''<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "REV", unplug its connector from the electronics, turn it by 180 degrees, and plug it in again. If the connector is polarized (can only be plugged in one way), you might need to reconnect the wires to the connector.<br />
# For each axis that is labeled "NO", make sure its connector is wired to the motor, and the connector is seated properly.<br />
# Repeat the test until all axes are labeled "OK". Now tell the X and Y axes to home. They should move until they reach their endstops, then stop.<br />
<br />
=== Attaching the print bed ===<br />
<br />
'''Parts Required'''<br />
* 1 225x225mm print top plate<br />
* 4 M3x40 bolts<br />
* 4 ballpoint pen springs<br />
* 8 M3 nuts (optionally nyloc)<br />
* 16 M3 washers<br />
<br />
'''Instructions'''<br />
# If you have a heated build platform, install it on the print top plate at this point. Cover your top plate or build platform with whatever your build surface material will be (Kapton, blue tape, etc.) <br />
# Put a washer on each of the four M3x40 bolts.<br />
# Thread each bolt through one of the holes in the print top plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer, a ballpoint pen spring, and another M3 washer onto each bolt.<br />
# Thread a nut onto each bolt to fasten it to the print top plate. Do not tighten. This nut is only there to hold the springs in place.<br />
# Carefully place the print top plate on top of the print bottom plate. Make sure each bolt goes through one of the holes in the print bottom plate.<br />
# Put an M3 washer and nut on the end of each of the bolts.<br />
# Level the bed. To do this, put a spirit level on top of the bed and adjust the nuts of each of the M3 bolts until the spirit level shows the bed is level. Use the top nut to adjust the height and the bottom nut to fix it. If you have a heated build platform, put the spirit level on the platform. Once done, tighten all nuts.<br />
# Adjust the Z endstop so that it is triggered when the nozzle is just barely above the bed. <br />
# You are now ready to print. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
== Media ==<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyVM3-v84I0 Two printers simultaneously] - Prusa and shaper cube working side by side.<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh3S9aOMRhU Prusa homing using enstops]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8c5fB9Ozek Prusa development overview]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MvUD-tuOX0 Prusa Y axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-pDYDnHYaQ Prusa Z axis stress test]<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNRapg2gaPg Early preview of the Prusa Mendel redesign]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/56020395@N06/sets/72157625420636778/show/ Fumon's Prusa build session 1] - D1plo1d building Fumon's Prusa Mendel at Hacklab.to. Should give a hint as to how the Prusa Mendel parts go together.<br />
<br />
== Prusa Improvements/Hacks ==<br />
* Rob's [[Auto-centering shaft coupler]] - designed to reduce shaft/motor vibrations (print 2/replaces 2x coupler)<br />
<br />
== See Also ==<br />
* [[PLA bushings]]<br />
<br />
== External Links ==<br />
* [http://prusadjs.cz/ Prusa's Blog]<br />
* [http://feeds.feedburner.com/Prusabuilders Prusa Builder Blog Feed]<br />
* [http://picasaweb.google.com/bokowski/PrusaMendel assembly photo gallery]</div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Pm-pulley.jpg&diff=26408File:Pm-pulley.jpg2011-01-08T18:39:31Z<p>Prusajr: uploaded a new version of "File:Pm-pulley.jpg"</p>
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<div></div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Pm-x-cariage.jpg&diff=26407File:Pm-x-cariage.jpg2011-01-08T18:39:24Z<p>Prusajr: uploaded a new version of "File:Pm-x-cariage.jpg"</p>
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<div></div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Pm-coupler.jpg&diff=26405File:Pm-coupler.jpg2011-01-08T18:39:07Z<p>Prusajr: uploaded a new version of "File:Pm-coupler.jpg"</p>
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<div></div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Pm-x-idler.jpg&diff=26404File:Pm-x-idler.jpg2011-01-08T18:33:42Z<p>Prusajr: uploaded a new version of "File:Pm-x-idler.jpg"</p>
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<div></div>Prusajrhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Pm-x-motor.jpg&diff=26403File:Pm-x-motor.jpg2011-01-08T18:32:33Z<p>Prusajr: uploaded a new version of "File:Pm-x-motor.jpg"</p>
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