https://reprap.org/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Gadgets3d&feedformat=atomRepRap - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T12:00:50ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.30.0https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Wires_and_connectors&diff=101691Wires and connectors2013-08-12T10:55:14Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Suppliers */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Wires and Connectors =<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wire Types ==<br />
<br />
We recommend using 22AWG or 20AWG multi-strand wires throughout your system. 18AWG wires can be used for power, but they may be hard to make connectors with. Your mileage may vary.<br />
<br />
The power and communications board will need to be directly connected to the power supply.<br />
You will need to wire power to each of your boards from your power and communications board.<br />
<br />
The signal wires don't carry much current, so they can be smaller than the other wires. You can usually find these wires pretty easily. Cables such as ethernet and phone cords contain multiple pairs of wires that are perfect for carrying signal... that's what they do! Simply crimp/solder on connectors to these and you're ready to go. Try to avoid solid core wire, particularly for cables that may move as the RepRap operates. Go for the stuff with lots of little strands inside, called - logically - multi-strand wire.<br />
<br />
== Making Cables (Housed connectors) ==<br />
<br />
'''Tools You'll Need''' <br/><br />
* wire strippers (nail clippers work great!)<br />
* needle nose pliers (small ones)<br />
* 22 AWG wire<br />
* [http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=538-08-50-0114 crimp-on terminal connectors]<br />
* [[SolderingToolKit|soldering toolkit]]<br />
<br />
In order to hook up all the various boards and devices for your RepRap machine, you will need to make cables. Generally this is accomplished by taking raw wires, stripping the ends, crimping a connector on, and then inserting that connector into the connector housing where it locks into place. This sounds easy, but can sometimes be quite frustrating. Here are some tips.<br />
<br />
=== Hold the Wire / Crimp Assembly Properly ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528699898/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528699898_1154851bfe_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
As simple as this sounds, it can make a huge difference. These things are small, easy to drop, and tough to align. The proper technique can make this much easier. Using your dominant hand, hold it palm up. Take the wire over your palm, along your index finger. With your free hand, grab a crimp-on terminal, and place it at the end of your index finger. Using your thumb, press down on the wire which should be properly placed on the terminal. Most crimp terminals have two sets of crimp tabs. One set is designed to crimp onto the insulation, the other is designed to crimp onto the wire itself. The proper placement is then to have the insulation be just a hair past the first set of tabs, with the wire extending all the way in. Then, with your free hand, crimp the connector on.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=== Properly Crimping the Wire ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528787945/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528787945_f0bb918132_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
If you have access to a crimping tool, you're set. Otherwise, use a set of needle nose pliers. First, crimp the tabs that are for the insulation. Once that is secure, then crimp the wire tabs. Doing it in this order will make it easier, as the wire crimp is the more important one and the assembly will be much more stable after the first crimp. Be careful to only crimp the tabs sticking out, and not the base of the crimp, as it will bend it out of shape and make it hard (or impossible) to insert into the connection housing. If you do this properly, your crimp will be strong and you won't have to solder it.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=== Optional: Solder Your Crimp ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528700494/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528700494_145837bb0a_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
This little hack isn't exactly orthodox. Electronics purists will probably have a heart attack hearing it. I find that even a very crappy crimp can be made into a solid connection that can handle some abuse, simply by applying a bit of solder to the connection. Basically what you want to do is heat up the crimp connector (that is already crimped to a wire.) Take care not to burn the insulation off the wire. Then, when its hot, apply a '''tiny''' bit of solder, just enough to wet the wires and the connector. Its best to do the soldering from the top of the crimp-on connector, as the solder will be able to flow to the wires better. Take care that the solder doesn't go anywhere else. If it wanders down towards the terminal, it can make it difficult to insert into the connector housing, or even interfere with inserting the connector.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=== Insert Cable into Housing ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528700634/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528700634_138125dd82_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
The connectors that are sourced in the bill of materials have two important properties:<br />
<br />
# They are polarized (meaning they only connect in one orientation)<br />
# They are friction lock (meaning that a connector will generally stay connected)<br />
<br />
There are three holes for each pin on the connector housing. There is a big hole on the top. This is where you insert the wire and crimp terminal. The crimp terminal has a metal tab on the bottom that sticks out. As the crimp terminal slides down the hole, eventually the tab pops out of the second hole in the housing, which locks it in place. This prevents the wire from pulling out of the housing. Because of this, it is very important you double check which hole to insert the wire '''before''' inserting, as it can be rather difficult to remove a wire after it has been inserted. Finally, there is a small hole on the bottom of the connector where the metal posts on the header enter to make contact with the crimp terminals.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
== Making Cables (Non-housed connectors) ==<br />
<br />
=== Tin the end of the soldering iron ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector1.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Tin the end of the connector, using some blue-tack to hold its position ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector2.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Tin the end of the wires ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector3.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Push wire and connector together and heat ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector4.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Slide on heat shrink and insulate ===<br />
<br />
<br />
== Suppliers ==<br />
<br />
'''EVERYWHERE''' <br/><br />
Most hardware stores, hobby shops, and electronics places sell wires, but they will often be pricey and/or marked up. YMMV.<br />
<br />
Alternatively, a simple google search for the gauge + AWG will give you some good results. Remember to get at least 2-3 colours to help you keep track of positive/negative. You may find that 6-core "security cable" is a cheap way of buying lots of different colours of signal wire<br />
<br />
A good read : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge<br />
<br />
Some examples :<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ <br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Company !! From !! Sizes !! Approximate Cost !! Additional notes <br />
|-<br />
| [http://gadgets3d.eu GADGETS3D.eu] || Poland/Europe || 26AWG wiring cables full set ( 6x 3 PIN cables for endstops, 3x 2 PIN cables for thermistors, 5x 4 PIN cables for motors) || €11 || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://gadgets3d.com GADGETS3D.com] || Worldwide || 26AWG wiring cables full set ( 6x 3 PIN cables for endstops, 3x 2 PIN cables for thermistors, 5x 4 PIN cables for motors) || $14.99 || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.eu/Cables_and_wiring/cat1675912_1534346.aspx Charlie's 3D Technologies] || Belgium || 0,5mm² ; 0,75mm² ; 2,5mm² || - || -<br />
|-<br />
| Radiospare || online || many <br> 16AWG [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/0333414/ red] [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/0333408/ black] ; 18AWG [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/6877531/ red] [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/6877522/ black] <br> Silicone [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/2226226/ 0,75mm²] [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/2227207/ 1,5mm²]|| || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.reprap-france.com/18-cablage Reprap-france] || France || 0,75mm² ; 1,5mm² || - || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.technobotsonline.com/cable-and-accessories/cable/silicone-insulated-cable.html Technobotsonline] || UK || many || - || -<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electronics]][[Category:Suppliers_by_Part]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Wires_and_connectors&diff=101690Wires and connectors2013-08-12T10:51:39Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Suppliers */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Wires and Connectors =<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wire Types ==<br />
<br />
We recommend using 22AWG or 20AWG multi-strand wires throughout your system. 18AWG wires can be used for power, but they may be hard to make connectors with. Your mileage may vary.<br />
<br />
The power and communications board will need to be directly connected to the power supply.<br />
You will need to wire power to each of your boards from your power and communications board.<br />
<br />
The signal wires don't carry much current, so they can be smaller than the other wires. You can usually find these wires pretty easily. Cables such as ethernet and phone cords contain multiple pairs of wires that are perfect for carrying signal... that's what they do! Simply crimp/solder on connectors to these and you're ready to go. Try to avoid solid core wire, particularly for cables that may move as the RepRap operates. Go for the stuff with lots of little strands inside, called - logically - multi-strand wire.<br />
<br />
== Making Cables (Housed connectors) ==<br />
<br />
'''Tools You'll Need''' <br/><br />
* wire strippers (nail clippers work great!)<br />
* needle nose pliers (small ones)<br />
* 22 AWG wire<br />
* [http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=538-08-50-0114 crimp-on terminal connectors]<br />
* [[SolderingToolKit|soldering toolkit]]<br />
<br />
In order to hook up all the various boards and devices for your RepRap machine, you will need to make cables. Generally this is accomplished by taking raw wires, stripping the ends, crimping a connector on, and then inserting that connector into the connector housing where it locks into place. This sounds easy, but can sometimes be quite frustrating. Here are some tips.<br />
<br />
=== Hold the Wire / Crimp Assembly Properly ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528699898/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528699898_1154851bfe_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
As simple as this sounds, it can make a huge difference. These things are small, easy to drop, and tough to align. The proper technique can make this much easier. Using your dominant hand, hold it palm up. Take the wire over your palm, along your index finger. With your free hand, grab a crimp-on terminal, and place it at the end of your index finger. Using your thumb, press down on the wire which should be properly placed on the terminal. Most crimp terminals have two sets of crimp tabs. One set is designed to crimp onto the insulation, the other is designed to crimp onto the wire itself. The proper placement is then to have the insulation be just a hair past the first set of tabs, with the wire extending all the way in. Then, with your free hand, crimp the connector on.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=== Properly Crimping the Wire ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528787945/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528787945_f0bb918132_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
If you have access to a crimping tool, you're set. Otherwise, use a set of needle nose pliers. First, crimp the tabs that are for the insulation. Once that is secure, then crimp the wire tabs. Doing it in this order will make it easier, as the wire crimp is the more important one and the assembly will be much more stable after the first crimp. Be careful to only crimp the tabs sticking out, and not the base of the crimp, as it will bend it out of shape and make it hard (or impossible) to insert into the connection housing. If you do this properly, your crimp will be strong and you won't have to solder it.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=== Optional: Solder Your Crimp ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528700494/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528700494_145837bb0a_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
This little hack isn't exactly orthodox. Electronics purists will probably have a heart attack hearing it. I find that even a very crappy crimp can be made into a solid connection that can handle some abuse, simply by applying a bit of solder to the connection. Basically what you want to do is heat up the crimp connector (that is already crimped to a wire.) Take care not to burn the insulation off the wire. Then, when its hot, apply a '''tiny''' bit of solder, just enough to wet the wires and the connector. Its best to do the soldering from the top of the crimp-on connector, as the solder will be able to flow to the wires better. Take care that the solder doesn't go anywhere else. If it wanders down towards the terminal, it can make it difficult to insert into the connector housing, or even interfere with inserting the connector.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=== Insert Cable into Housing ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528700634/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528700634_138125dd82_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
The connectors that are sourced in the bill of materials have two important properties:<br />
<br />
# They are polarized (meaning they only connect in one orientation)<br />
# They are friction lock (meaning that a connector will generally stay connected)<br />
<br />
There are three holes for each pin on the connector housing. There is a big hole on the top. This is where you insert the wire and crimp terminal. The crimp terminal has a metal tab on the bottom that sticks out. As the crimp terminal slides down the hole, eventually the tab pops out of the second hole in the housing, which locks it in place. This prevents the wire from pulling out of the housing. Because of this, it is very important you double check which hole to insert the wire '''before''' inserting, as it can be rather difficult to remove a wire after it has been inserted. Finally, there is a small hole on the bottom of the connector where the metal posts on the header enter to make contact with the crimp terminals.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
== Making Cables (Non-housed connectors) ==<br />
<br />
=== Tin the end of the soldering iron ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector1.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Tin the end of the connector, using some blue-tack to hold its position ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector2.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Tin the end of the wires ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector3.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Push wire and connector together and heat ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector4.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Slide on heat shrink and insulate ===<br />
<br />
<br />
== Suppliers ==<br />
<br />
'''EVERYWHERE''' <br/><br />
Most hardware stores, hobby shops, and electronics places sell wires, but they will often be pricey and/or marked up. YMMV.<br />
<br />
Alternatively, a simple google search for the gauge + AWG will give you some good results. Remember to get at least 2-3 colours to help you keep track of positive/negative. You may find that 6-core "security cable" is a cheap way of buying lots of different colours of signal wire<br />
<br />
A good read : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge<br />
<br />
Some examples :<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ <br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Company !! From !! Sizes !! Approximate Cost !! Additional notes <br />
|-<br />
| [http://gadgets3d.eu GADGETS3D.eu] || Poland/Europe || 26AWG wiring cables full set ( 6x 3 PIN cables for endstops, 3x 2 PIN cables for thermistors, 5x 4 PIN cables for motors) || €13 || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://gadgets3d.com GADGETS3D.com] || Worldwide || 26AWG wiring cables full set ( 6x 3 PIN cables for endstops, 3x 2 PIN cables for thermistors, 5x 4 PIN cables for motors) || $17 || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.eu/Cables_and_wiring/cat1675912_1534346.aspx Charlie's 3D Technologies] || Belgium || 0,5mm² ; 0,75mm² ; 2,5mm² || - || -<br />
|-<br />
| Radiospare || online || many <br> 16AWG [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/0333414/ red] [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/0333408/ black] ; 18AWG [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/6877531/ red] [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/6877522/ black] <br> Silicone [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/2226226/ 0,75mm²] [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/2227207/ 1,5mm²]|| || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.reprap-france.com/18-cablage Reprap-france] || France || 0,75mm² ; 1,5mm² || - || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.technobotsonline.com/cable-and-accessories/cable/silicone-insulated-cable.html Technobotsonline] || UK || many || - || -<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electronics]][[Category:Suppliers_by_Part]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Wires_and_connectors&diff=101689Wires and connectors2013-08-12T10:50:58Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Suppliers */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Wires and Connectors =<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wire Types ==<br />
<br />
We recommend using 22AWG or 20AWG multi-strand wires throughout your system. 18AWG wires can be used for power, but they may be hard to make connectors with. Your mileage may vary.<br />
<br />
The power and communications board will need to be directly connected to the power supply.<br />
You will need to wire power to each of your boards from your power and communications board.<br />
<br />
The signal wires don't carry much current, so they can be smaller than the other wires. You can usually find these wires pretty easily. Cables such as ethernet and phone cords contain multiple pairs of wires that are perfect for carrying signal... that's what they do! Simply crimp/solder on connectors to these and you're ready to go. Try to avoid solid core wire, particularly for cables that may move as the RepRap operates. Go for the stuff with lots of little strands inside, called - logically - multi-strand wire.<br />
<br />
== Making Cables (Housed connectors) ==<br />
<br />
'''Tools You'll Need''' <br/><br />
* wire strippers (nail clippers work great!)<br />
* needle nose pliers (small ones)<br />
* 22 AWG wire<br />
* [http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=538-08-50-0114 crimp-on terminal connectors]<br />
* [[SolderingToolKit|soldering toolkit]]<br />
<br />
In order to hook up all the various boards and devices for your RepRap machine, you will need to make cables. Generally this is accomplished by taking raw wires, stripping the ends, crimping a connector on, and then inserting that connector into the connector housing where it locks into place. This sounds easy, but can sometimes be quite frustrating. Here are some tips.<br />
<br />
=== Hold the Wire / Crimp Assembly Properly ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528699898/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528699898_1154851bfe_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
As simple as this sounds, it can make a huge difference. These things are small, easy to drop, and tough to align. The proper technique can make this much easier. Using your dominant hand, hold it palm up. Take the wire over your palm, along your index finger. With your free hand, grab a crimp-on terminal, and place it at the end of your index finger. Using your thumb, press down on the wire which should be properly placed on the terminal. Most crimp terminals have two sets of crimp tabs. One set is designed to crimp onto the insulation, the other is designed to crimp onto the wire itself. The proper placement is then to have the insulation be just a hair past the first set of tabs, with the wire extending all the way in. Then, with your free hand, crimp the connector on.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=== Properly Crimping the Wire ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528787945/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528787945_f0bb918132_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
If you have access to a crimping tool, you're set. Otherwise, use a set of needle nose pliers. First, crimp the tabs that are for the insulation. Once that is secure, then crimp the wire tabs. Doing it in this order will make it easier, as the wire crimp is the more important one and the assembly will be much more stable after the first crimp. Be careful to only crimp the tabs sticking out, and not the base of the crimp, as it will bend it out of shape and make it hard (or impossible) to insert into the connection housing. If you do this properly, your crimp will be strong and you won't have to solder it.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=== Optional: Solder Your Crimp ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528700494/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528700494_145837bb0a_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
This little hack isn't exactly orthodox. Electronics purists will probably have a heart attack hearing it. I find that even a very crappy crimp can be made into a solid connection that can handle some abuse, simply by applying a bit of solder to the connection. Basically what you want to do is heat up the crimp connector (that is already crimped to a wire.) Take care not to burn the insulation off the wire. Then, when its hot, apply a '''tiny''' bit of solder, just enough to wet the wires and the connector. Its best to do the soldering from the top of the crimp-on connector, as the solder will be able to flow to the wires better. Take care that the solder doesn't go anywhere else. If it wanders down towards the terminal, it can make it difficult to insert into the connector housing, or even interfere with inserting the connector.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=== Insert Cable into Housing ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/hoeken/528700634/in/set-72157600305955237/ [[image:cache-528700634_138125dd82_m.jpg|thumb]]]<br />
<br />
The connectors that are sourced in the bill of materials have two important properties:<br />
<br />
# They are polarized (meaning they only connect in one orientation)<br />
# They are friction lock (meaning that a connector will generally stay connected)<br />
<br />
There are three holes for each pin on the connector housing. There is a big hole on the top. This is where you insert the wire and crimp terminal. The crimp terminal has a metal tab on the bottom that sticks out. As the crimp terminal slides down the hole, eventually the tab pops out of the second hole in the housing, which locks it in place. This prevents the wire from pulling out of the housing. Because of this, it is very important you double check which hole to insert the wire '''before''' inserting, as it can be rather difficult to remove a wire after it has been inserted. Finally, there is a small hole on the bottom of the connector where the metal posts on the header enter to make contact with the crimp terminals.<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
== Making Cables (Non-housed connectors) ==<br />
<br />
=== Tin the end of the soldering iron ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector1.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Tin the end of the connector, using some blue-tack to hold its position ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector2.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Tin the end of the wires ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector3.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Push wire and connector together and heat ===<br />
[[image:WiresAndConnectors-solderconnector4.jpg|300px]]<br />
=== Slide on heat shrink and insulate ===<br />
<br />
<br />
== Suppliers ==<br />
<br />
'''EVERYWHERE''' <br/><br />
Most hardware stores, hobby shops, and electronics places sell wires, but they will often be pricey and/or marked up. YMMV.<br />
<br />
Alternatively, a simple google search for the gauge + AWG will give you some good results. Remember to get at least 2-3 colours to help you keep track of positive/negative. You may find that 6-core "security cable" is a cheap way of buying lots of different colours of signal wire<br />
<br />
A good read : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge<br />
<br />
Some examples :<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ <br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Company !! From !! Sizes !! Approximate Cost !! Additional notes <br />
|-<br />
| [http://gadgets3d.eu GADGETS3D.eu] || Europe || 26AWG wiring cables full set ( 6x 3 PIN cables for endstops, 3x 2 PIN cables for thermistors, 5x 4 PIN cables for motors) || €13 || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://gadgets3d.com GADGETS3D.com] || Worldwide || 26AWG wiring cables full set ( 6x 3 PIN cables for endstops, 3x 2 PIN cables for thermistors, 5x 4 PIN cables for motors) || $17 || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.eu/Cables_and_wiring/cat1675912_1534346.aspx Charlie's 3D Technologies] || Belgium || 0,5mm² ; 0,75mm² ; 2,5mm² || - || -<br />
|-<br />
| Radiospare || online || many <br> 16AWG [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/0333414/ red] [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/0333408/ black] ; 18AWG [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/6877531/ red] [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/6877522/ black] <br> Silicone [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/2226226/ 0,75mm²] [http://radiospares-fr.rs-online.com/web/p/fil-de-cablage-electrique/2227207/ 1,5mm²]|| || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.reprap-france.com/18-cablage Reprap-france] || France || 0,75mm² ; 1,5mm² || - || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.technobotsonline.com/cable-and-accessories/cable/silicone-insulated-cable.html Technobotsonline] || UK || many || - || -<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electronics]][[Category:Suppliers_by_Part]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=G3D_driver&diff=99729G3D driver2013-07-26T12:31:26Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Licences */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = A4988 G3D Stepper Drivers<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = G3d_1.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = New generation stepper motor driver<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
This is the new innovative stepper motor driver for your 3D printer or any task involved stepper motors! It is a new generation as replacement for Pololu/StepStick.<br />
<br />
Professional design ensure stable operation of this driver - it contain 2oz copper PCB for better heat dissipation and 0.1ohm sense resistors which let it working up to 2A (heatsink and additional air cooling is needed for operating over 1A).<br />
<br />
Using standard A4988 drivers you face the problem of vibration / shaking stepper motors and frame when stepper motors are moving (most noticeable on Z stage). These drivers solves this problem by using an additional 30k trimpot to correctly select the off-time settings. <br />
-------------<br />
Is it complicated to use? <br />
<br />
No, you only need to turn second trimpot (OSC) fully counterclokwise and that's all - you can enjoy smoother and quieter stepper motors operation and no more lost motor steps because of non-optimal off-time settings.<br />
-------------<br />
For what we need second trimpot ?<br />
<br />
This is just 30k trimpot which turned fully counterclokwise pulling ROSC pin into ground and turning it clockwise let you to choose reference.<br />
-------------<br />
Quotet from A4988 datasheet:<br />
<br />
"By pulling the ROSC pin to ground (second trimpot turned fully counter clockwise in our driver), mixed decay is set to <br />
be active 100% of the time, for both rising and falling currents, and <br />
prevents missed steps. If this is not an issue, it <br />
is recommended that automatically-selected mixed decay be used, <br />
because it will produce reduced ripple currents. Refer to the Fixed <br />
Off-Time section for details."<br />
<br />
You can check A4988 datasheet for more informations.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
4pcs or 5pcs G3D Drivers fully soldered and assembled and ready to use:<br />
<br />
4pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
5pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=72 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/> <br />
[http://myreprap.com/parts_accessories/electronics/stepper_drivers/ Robots3D (Russia)]<br/> <br />
[http://www.makershop.co.nz/electronics/G3D-Driver Makershop.co.nz (New Zealand)]<br/><br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=VREF Calculation Formula=<br />
<br />
VREF = I_TripMax * 8 * 0.1<br/><br />
I_TripMax = Peak current through one winding of your motor (A)(other winding will be off)<br/><br />
Note that the current rating shown on your stepper motor is usually for current in both windings.<br/><br />
The peak current through both windings simultaneously will be 70.71% of I_TripMax.<br/><br />
To avoid excessive heating of the stepper motor, particularly if it is bolted to a PLA component, you should set I_tripMax to no more than your steppers Rated current.<br/><br />
This will result in approximately half the temperature rise and 70% of the rated torque.<br />
<br />
Example: 0.4A * 8 * 0.1 = 0.32V<br />
<br />
VREF can be measured with a voltmeter between the metal top of the trimpot and GND.<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_11.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_22.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_33.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
<b>Note:</B> The schematic linked below shows Sense resistors as 0.2 ohm.<br><br />
The I trip calculation above and the products being shipped use 0.1 ohm sense resistors.<br><br />
This is a change from the common Pololu design, which uses 0.05 ohm for sense resistors.<br><br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_Driver_schematic.jpg|Schematic]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_driver_rev0.rar|Gerber files]]<br />
<br />
=Licences=<br />
<br />
GPL</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=G3D_driver&diff=91575G3D driver2013-05-08T08:24:49Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = A4988 G3D Stepper Drivers<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = G3d_1.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = New generation stepper motor driver<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
This is the new innovative stepper motor driver for your 3D printer or any task involved stepper motors! It is a new generation as replacement for Pololu/StepStick.<br />
<br />
Professional design ensure stable operation of this driver - it contain 2oz copper PCB for better heat dissipation and 0.1ohm sense resistors which let it working up to 2A (heatsink and additional air cooling is needed for operating over 1A).<br />
<br />
Using standard A4988 drivers you face the problem of vibration / shaking stepper motors and frame when stepper motors are moving (most noticeable on Z stage). These drivers solves this problem by using an additional 30k trimpot to correctly select the off-time settings. <br />
-------------<br />
Is it complicated to use? <br />
<br />
No, you only need to turn second trimpot (OSC) fully counterclokwise and that's all - you can enjoy smoother and quieter stepper motors operation and no more lost motor steps because of non-optimal off-time settings.<br />
-------------<br />
For what we need second trimpot ?<br />
<br />
This is just 30k trimpot which turned fully counterclokwise pulling ROSC pin into ground and turning it clockwise let you to choose reference.<br />
-------------<br />
Quotet from A4988 datasheet:<br />
<br />
"By pulling the ROSC pin to ground (second trimpot turned fully counter clockwise in our driver), mixed decay is set to <br />
be active 100% of the time, for both rising and falling currents, and <br />
prevents missed steps. If this is not an issue, it <br />
is recommended that automatically-selected mixed decay be used, <br />
because it will produce reduced ripple currents. Refer to the Fixed <br />
Off-Time section for details."<br />
<br />
You can check A4988 datasheet for more informations.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
4pcs or 5pcs G3D Drivers fully soldered and assembled and ready to use:<br />
<br />
4pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
5pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=72 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/> <br />
[http://myreprap.com/parts_accessories/electronics/stepper_drivers/ Robots3D (Russia)]<br/> <br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=VREF Calculation Formula=<br />
<br />
REF = I_TripMax * 8 * 0.1<br />
I_TripMax - Trip current of your motor (A)<br />
<br />
Example: 0.4A * 8 * 0.1 = 0.32V<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_11.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_22.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_33.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_Driver_schematic.jpg|Schematic]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_driver_rev0.rar|Gerber files]]<br />
<br />
=Licences=<br />
<br />
[[File:88x31.png]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_1.3/1.4_GADGETS3D_Shield_with_Panel&diff=91203RAMPS 1.3/1.4 GADGETS3D Shield with Panel2013-05-04T23:10:46Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Software configuration */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = GADGETS3D Shield with Panel<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = GADGETS3D_shield_main.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Run your RAMPS without computer!<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|based on = bkubicek controller design<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
Ever wanted to run your RepRap powered by RAMPS 1.3/1.4 without bonding computer into it? <br />
<br />
This panel and RAMPS GADGETS3D shield will let print your G-Code files from an SD card and <br />
show you all informations about current print also live tuning is possible - everything <br />
without computer connected.<br />
<br />
After connecting this panel into your RAMPS you are totally free of USB connection, all <br />
functions as axes moves, calibrations, setup you can done just by few rotations of knob and <br />
printing can be done just using g-code stored on the SD card.<br />
<br />
RAMPS GADGETS3D shield mounting of this panel into your RAMPS 1.3/1.4 electronics should <br />
take just a few seconds - you don't need to be a cables engineer also your electronics is <br />
safe from damages due of wrong wiring. Also this GADGETS3D shield provide separate power for <br />
correct operating of SD card.<br />
<br />
This is not a new idea and main panel with LCD is based on<br />
[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15081 bkubicek Panel design] just a GADGETS3D shield is a <br />
new invention - after we spent half of day to wiring LCD into RAMPS then we try to simplify it <br />
and also made an error free connection this is how comes idea about doing it using just <br />
10pin flat cables connected into panel and easy mountable shield can be inserted into RAMPS <br />
board in few seconds.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
GADGETS3D shield + Panel including 4 rows display, 2GB SD card and ALPS rotary encoder with <br />
plastic knob - everything is assembled, soldered and ready to use.<br />
<br />
List of suppliers:<br/><br />
<br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/><br />
[http://robots3d.ru/parts_accessories/electronics/electronics_kits/lcd-sd-panel-and-gadgets3d-shield-v1-0.html Robots3D.ru]<br/><br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=Software configuration=<br />
<br />
Panel works with the new Marlin firmware since release 3 so you need to upload it from <br />
precompiled hex file or you can download latest [https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Marlin sources] and configure it by yourself.<br />
<br />
In Configuration.h file search //#G3D_PANEL and uncomment to #G3D_PANEL <br />
<br />
That is all what you need to do.<br />
<br />
If you want to modify panel functionality by yourself for example change rotation direction or disable buzzer you can do advanced changes.<br />
<br />
=Pinouts description for advanced users=<br />
<br />
In pins.h file search for line "#if MOTHERBOARD == 33 || MOTHERBOARD == 34" and go down until "#ifdef ULTRA_LCD" line.<br />
<br />
After this line you can see pinouts definitons for controlling panel which looks like a this.<br />
<br />
#define [name] pin_numer<br />
<br />
Description of this pins:<br />
<br />
#define BEEPER 33 - Beeper and is Connected into GADGETS3D shield MEGA_18BEEPER pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_RS 16 - LCD control and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCDRS pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17 - LCD enable pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCDE pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D4 23 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD4 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D5 25 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD5 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D6 27 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD6 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D7 29 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD7 pin<br />
#define BTN_EN1 37 - Encoder left direction and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_E1 pin<br />
#define BTN_EN2 35 - Encoder right direction and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_E2 pin<br />
#define BTN_ENC 31 - Encoder Push/Click signal and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_EC<br />
<br />
For example to reverse direction of rotary encoder you can swap values of BTN_EN1 and <br />
<br />
BTN_EN2 difinitions into:<br />
<br />
#define BTN_EN1 35<br />
#define BTN_EN2 37<br />
<br />
For disable buzzer:<br />
<br />
#define BEEPER -1<br />
<br />
You can also find definitions about SD card pins but this values better don't touch only SDCARDDETECT value you can change without any problem<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_main2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_1.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
[[Media:RAMPS_GADGETS3_SHIELD_SCHEMATIC.jpg|GADGETS3D Shield Schematic]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:Panel_schematic.pdf|Panel schematic]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:Panel.zip|Panel gerber files]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:GADGETS3D_shield_with_panel_STP_file.rar|Panel STP files]]<br />
<br />
=SD card myths=<br />
<br />
Bigger don't means better using Marlin software you need always try to stay with cards up to 2GB even if your 4GB or 8GB card working well then this still means software have only access into low 2GB area so to be safe from any errors try to stay with 2GB or less memory cards this is still more than enought.</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Choosing_Belts_and_Pulleys&diff=82126Choosing Belts and Pulleys2013-02-14T10:22:17Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* GADGETS3D.com */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Choosing Belts and Pulleys=<br />
Traditionally RepRaps have been assembled using printed pulleys and T5 or XL belts. From an ideological standpoint, that makes sense, we should minimize the vitamin count wherever possible. Unfortunately, with the exception of the hot end and extruder, the pulleys and belts are '''probably the single most important parts when it comes to improving your print quality''', and the commonly used parts are almost completely wrong for what we do.<br />
<br />
==What's wrong with the status quo?==<br />
There are a number of problems.<br />
<br />
Depending on how well tuned your printer is, the quality of your printed pulleys will range from good to atrocious. Even the best quality pulleys will not be up to the quality of commercial pulleys. <br />
<br />
More importantly, the type of belts we use are all wrong. The T in T2.5 and T5 stands for Timing. It is designed to synchronize rotating shafts. It is not designed for linear motion, so it does not account for backlash in a reversing pulley. XL is also designed as a timing belt, but is a SAE standard, not metric. __The two are not compatible!__ If you have XL belts and pulleys that were printed for T5 belts, they may seem to fit but you will never be able to get decent prints.<br />
<br />
'''Actually there are [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,128202,128243#msg-128243 doubts] about claim that T5 / T2.5 is causing backlash.'''<br />
<br />
==How do we fix the problem?==<br />
To get the best print quality, we want to use a pulley and belt that are designed for linear motion. The GT2 series of belts are designed specifically for that purpose. They use a rounded tooth profile that guarantees that the belt tooth fits smoothly and accurately in the pulley groove, so when you reverse the pulley direction, there is no room for the belt to move in the groove. You should see an almost immediate increase in print consistency, especially around small holes and details.<br />
<br />
==How do I choose a pulley and a belt?==<br />
Generally speaking, for best performance you want at least 6 teeth in contact with the pulley at any given time. That minimizes the chance of the belt slipping, and helps reduce backlash even further. In practice that means you want a minimum of a 12 tooth pulley, and I usually try to get at least 18 teeth.<br />
<br />
Beyond that minimum, fewer teeth are generally better than more teeth, since a smaller pulley gives both more torque and more resolution. You get more torque because the longer your "arm", the less torque you have (Imagine the load is mounted on an arm the length of the radius of the pulley, the shorter that arm, the easier it is to lift the load), and you get higher resolution, since you have a fixed number of steps per revolution, and a smaller pulley moves a shorter linear distance per step.<br />
<br />
==Where do I get them?==<br />
There are several sources for GT2 belts and pulleys.<br />
===SDP-SI===<br />
In the US, the best source is Stock Drive Products. They sell a huge variety of belts and pulleys that meet our needs. Here are some suitable pulleys:<br />
<br />
Always call SDP for stock. Their website is always out of date.<br />
<br />
* [https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=22736&GroupID=347 5mm Bore, 36 teeth] (44.44444444 steps per mm for at 1/16 step mode)<br />
* [https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=8545&GroupID=347 5mm bore, 40 teeth]<br />
* [https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=55836&GroupID=347 5mm Bore, 42 teeth]<br />
* [https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Direct.asp?GroupID=347 All SDP's pulleys]. Filter for GT2, 2mm pitch, then choose the bore size needed for your steppers.<br />
* [https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Direct.asp?GroupID=342 Belts]. Filter on GT2, 2mm Pitch, and get 2 belts as close to 1M long as possible.<br />
<br />
Note, unfortunately, SDP does not carry a smaller diameter GT2 pulley with a 5mm bore, so to buy your pulleys here you need a larger pulley than in strictly ideal. These are fine, though. I use the 36 tooth pulleys on my printer and they work great.<br />
<br />
I recommend GT2, 2mm pitch, but you can also use GT2 3mm pitch. A finer pitch is preferable for the type of movement we do, and the belts are cheaper, but if you find the 2mm belts or pulleys are out of stock, you can go to 3mm pitch without any significant downsides. If you do choose 3mm pitch pulleys, be sure to get 3mm pitch belts as well.<br />
<br />
===Misumi===<br />
Another good source for GT2 pulleys and belts is Misumi. <br />
<br />
They carry a huge variety of suitable pulleys, including several that are closer to out ideal diameter. In addition, Misumi has offices around the globe so they are a better choice for international customers (though some regions will only sell to businesses).<br />
<br />
Their website does not make it easy to browse for belts and pulleys, but here are the relavent pages in their catalog:<br />
<br />
* [http://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/fa/PDFViewer.html?catalog=Metric2010&page=1097 Pulleys]<br />
* [http://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/fa/PDFViewer.html?catalog=Metric2010&page=1175 Belts]<br />
<br />
Note: Misumi calls theirs 2GT (2mm pitch) and 3GT (3mm pitch). As far as I know they are compatible, but both offer the same benefits. Misumi's pulleys seem expensive, but they are metal pulleys. We don't really need metal pulleys for our needs, but they are fine.<br />
<br />
===Royal Supply===<br />
* Belts: http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Gates-2MR-1164-06-PowerGrip-GT2-V-Belt-2MR-and-3MR-93901582-1036p17193.htm<br />
* Pulleys: http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Gates-2MR-18S-06-PowerGrip-GT2-Sprockets-2MR-and-3MR-78426007-1555p42023.htm#details (but beware that their bore is 3/16 or ~4,7mm so you'll need to redrill them to fit on the usual 5mm motor shaft)<br />
<br />
===B&B Mannufacturing===<br />
http://www.bbman.com/<br />
<br />
===Ultimachine===<br />
http://ultimachine.com/content/timing-pulley-gt2-20-tooth<br />
<br />
===TechPaladin===<br />
* Belts: http://techpaladin.com/store/#!/~/product/id=9001827<br />
* Pulleys: http://techpaladin.com/store/#!/~/product/id=18833859<br />
<br />
===fabberworld.com===<br />
http://www.fabberworld.com/Pulleys-and-Timing-Belts:::8.html?language=en<br />
<br />
===GADGETS3D.com===<br />
http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=74<br />
<br />
http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=75<br />
<br />
===fabster3d on eBay===<br />
http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
* [http://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/fa/PDFViewer.html?catalog=metric2010&page=1095 Misumi's pulley introduction]<br />
* SDP's [http://www.sdp-si.com/D265/HTML/D265T003.html Handbook of Timing Belts and Pulleys]<br />
<br />
[[Category:General motion control]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Choosing_Belts_and_Pulleys&diff=82125Choosing Belts and Pulleys2013-02-14T10:20:40Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where do I get them? */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Choosing Belts and Pulleys=<br />
Traditionally RepRaps have been assembled using printed pulleys and T5 or XL belts. From an ideological standpoint, that makes sense, we should minimize the vitamin count wherever possible. Unfortunately, with the exception of the hot end and extruder, the pulleys and belts are '''probably the single most important parts when it comes to improving your print quality''', and the commonly used parts are almost completely wrong for what we do.<br />
<br />
==What's wrong with the status quo?==<br />
There are a number of problems.<br />
<br />
Depending on how well tuned your printer is, the quality of your printed pulleys will range from good to atrocious. Even the best quality pulleys will not be up to the quality of commercial pulleys. <br />
<br />
More importantly, the type of belts we use are all wrong. The T in T2.5 and T5 stands for Timing. It is designed to synchronize rotating shafts. It is not designed for linear motion, so it does not account for backlash in a reversing pulley. XL is also designed as a timing belt, but is a SAE standard, not metric. __The two are not compatible!__ If you have XL belts and pulleys that were printed for T5 belts, they may seem to fit but you will never be able to get decent prints.<br />
<br />
'''Actually there are [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,128202,128243#msg-128243 doubts] about claim that T5 / T2.5 is causing backlash.'''<br />
<br />
==How do we fix the problem?==<br />
To get the best print quality, we want to use a pulley and belt that are designed for linear motion. The GT2 series of belts are designed specifically for that purpose. They use a rounded tooth profile that guarantees that the belt tooth fits smoothly and accurately in the pulley groove, so when you reverse the pulley direction, there is no room for the belt to move in the groove. You should see an almost immediate increase in print consistency, especially around small holes and details.<br />
<br />
==How do I choose a pulley and a belt?==<br />
Generally speaking, for best performance you want at least 6 teeth in contact with the pulley at any given time. That minimizes the chance of the belt slipping, and helps reduce backlash even further. In practice that means you want a minimum of a 12 tooth pulley, and I usually try to get at least 18 teeth.<br />
<br />
Beyond that minimum, fewer teeth are generally better than more teeth, since a smaller pulley gives both more torque and more resolution. You get more torque because the longer your "arm", the less torque you have (Imagine the load is mounted on an arm the length of the radius of the pulley, the shorter that arm, the easier it is to lift the load), and you get higher resolution, since you have a fixed number of steps per revolution, and a smaller pulley moves a shorter linear distance per step.<br />
<br />
==Where do I get them?==<br />
There are several sources for GT2 belts and pulleys.<br />
===SDP-SI===<br />
In the US, the best source is Stock Drive Products. They sell a huge variety of belts and pulleys that meet our needs. Here are some suitable pulleys:<br />
<br />
Always call SDP for stock. Their website is always out of date.<br />
<br />
* [https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=22736&GroupID=347 5mm Bore, 36 teeth] (44.44444444 steps per mm for at 1/16 step mode)<br />
* [https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=8545&GroupID=347 5mm bore, 40 teeth]<br />
* [https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=55836&GroupID=347 5mm Bore, 42 teeth]<br />
* [https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Direct.asp?GroupID=347 All SDP's pulleys]. Filter for GT2, 2mm pitch, then choose the bore size needed for your steppers.<br />
* [https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Direct.asp?GroupID=342 Belts]. Filter on GT2, 2mm Pitch, and get 2 belts as close to 1M long as possible.<br />
<br />
Note, unfortunately, SDP does not carry a smaller diameter GT2 pulley with a 5mm bore, so to buy your pulleys here you need a larger pulley than in strictly ideal. These are fine, though. I use the 36 tooth pulleys on my printer and they work great.<br />
<br />
I recommend GT2, 2mm pitch, but you can also use GT2 3mm pitch. A finer pitch is preferable for the type of movement we do, and the belts are cheaper, but if you find the 2mm belts or pulleys are out of stock, you can go to 3mm pitch without any significant downsides. If you do choose 3mm pitch pulleys, be sure to get 3mm pitch belts as well.<br />
<br />
===Misumi===<br />
Another good source for GT2 pulleys and belts is Misumi. <br />
<br />
They carry a huge variety of suitable pulleys, including several that are closer to out ideal diameter. In addition, Misumi has offices around the globe so they are a better choice for international customers (though some regions will only sell to businesses).<br />
<br />
Their website does not make it easy to browse for belts and pulleys, but here are the relavent pages in their catalog:<br />
<br />
* [http://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/fa/PDFViewer.html?catalog=Metric2010&page=1097 Pulleys]<br />
* [http://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/fa/PDFViewer.html?catalog=Metric2010&page=1175 Belts]<br />
<br />
Note: Misumi calls theirs 2GT (2mm pitch) and 3GT (3mm pitch). As far as I know they are compatible, but both offer the same benefits. Misumi's pulleys seem expensive, but they are metal pulleys. We don't really need metal pulleys for our needs, but they are fine.<br />
<br />
===Royal Supply===<br />
* Belts: http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Gates-2MR-1164-06-PowerGrip-GT2-V-Belt-2MR-and-3MR-93901582-1036p17193.htm<br />
* Pulleys: http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Gates-2MR-18S-06-PowerGrip-GT2-Sprockets-2MR-and-3MR-78426007-1555p42023.htm#details (but beware that their bore is 3/16 or ~4,7mm so you'll need to redrill them to fit on the usual 5mm motor shaft)<br />
<br />
===B&B Mannufacturing===<br />
http://www.bbman.com/<br />
<br />
===Ultimachine===<br />
http://ultimachine.com/content/timing-pulley-gt2-20-tooth<br />
<br />
===TechPaladin===<br />
* Belts: http://techpaladin.com/store/#!/~/product/id=9001827<br />
* Pulleys: http://techpaladin.com/store/#!/~/product/id=18833859<br />
<br />
===fabberworld.com===<br />
http://www.fabberworld.com/Pulleys-and-Timing-Belts:::8.html?language=en<br />
<br />
===GADGETS3D.com===<br />
http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=74<br />
http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=75<br />
<br />
===fabster3d on eBay===<br />
http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html<br />
<br />
==References==<br />
* [http://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/fa/PDFViewer.html?catalog=metric2010&page=1095 Misumi's pulley introduction]<br />
* SDP's [http://www.sdp-si.com/D265/HTML/D265T003.html Handbook of Timing Belts and Pulleys]<br />
<br />
[[Category:General motion control]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Budaschnozzle&diff=80774Budaschnozzle2013-02-02T12:50:43Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Suppliers */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|LulzBot/Budaschnozzle}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = Budaschnozzle1-1_001.jpg<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = BudaSchnozzle<br />
|description = Truly free/libre hot end<br />
|license = GPLv3<br />
|author = Aleph Objects, Inc.<br />
|reprap = Arcol.hu_Hot-End_Version_3.0<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Extruders|Extruders]][[Category:Extruders]], [[:Category:Hot End|Hot End]][[Category:Hot End]]<br />
|url = [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/ Budaschnozzle]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Intro=<br />
Introducing the new generation of the LulzBot hotend, the Budaschnozzle 1.1. With some tweaks and beefing up of a few parts, the Budaschnozzle 1.1 is a more robust and reliable hotend.<br />
<br />
The length of the hot zone was made longer to allow for faster printing. The PEEK isolator is now supported by the lower wooden plate with an internal thread. Nozzles are also now internally threaded and easily interchangable.<br />
<br />
*The BudaSchnozzle is a free/libre hot end.<br />
*Inspired by the [[Arcol.hu_Hot-End_Version_3.0]]<br />
<br><br />
<gallery perrow=3><br />
Image:Budaschnozzle1-1_001.jpg| Assembled Budaschnozzle v1.1<br />
Image:Budaschnozzle_v1.1.jpg| 3D CAD Rendering<br />
Image:Budaschnozzle_v1.1_cross.jpg| Cross-section Image<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Features=<br />
*Aluminum Block Resistor Hotend<br />
*Easily assembled and torn down with no glue or ceramic<br />
*Wire Strain Relief<br />
*Includes machined aluminum and steel parts, and laser cut wooden parts<br />
*Compatible with Wade's and Greg's accessible extruder<br />
*Currently compatible with:<br />
**The standard Prusa Mendel carriage<br />
**Our [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10646 Supa-Flat carriage]<br />
**Mendel [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15414 OpenX Bling carriage]<br />
<br />
=Specs=<br />
*Size at longest parts: (H,W,L) 57mm, 40mm, 40mm<br />
*Aluminum heater block<br />
**Machined aluminum heat block: 18.4mm x 25mm x 8.3mm.<br />
***M10 x 1.0 internal thread<br />
**Machined aluminum nozzle, M10 x 1.0 internal thread, 0.5mm orifice<br />
**Thermistor temperature reading: Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01<br />
**Resistor heating element: Vishay RWM06226R80JA15E1<br />
*Aluminum and copper heatsink<br />
*PEEK insulator<br />
*PTFE inner sleeve<br />
*Laser cut hard wood plates<br />
*For use with 3mm filament. 1.75mm filament can be used by changeing the inner PTFE tube.<br />
*Machined stainless steel back-up plate<br />
<br />
Note:<br />
<br />
*If you plan to make a nozzle and are wondering what size drill bit to use, a good drill chart can be found at: http://whatisacnc.com/3d-printer/3d-printer-nozzle/<br />
<br />
=Videos=<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">vYfa3DT09l8</videoflash><br />
<br><br />
<br />
=Mounting=<br />
<br />
Mounting the Budaschnozzle is SUPER easy. Once your carriage is mounted and ready to go, place the Budaschnozzle into the carriage hotend hole. Line up the holes in the Budaschnozzle mount plate with the extruder mounting holes in the carriage. Put your extruder on top of the Budaschnozzle mount plate lining up the extruder mount holes with the holes in the mount plate and carriage. Push in the the screws that are compatible with your carriage (generally M4 screws). Screw on the nuts and tighten the screws. Bam, done.<br />
<br />
Tip: Put a scrap piece of plastic filament through the extruder and into the hot-end before you tighten down the extruder. You do not need to heat the Budaschnozzle, just lightly push the filament down until it reaches the nozzle. This will align the filament travel space to give a nice smooth movement of the filament through the extruder and hot-end.<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3><br />
Image:DSC_0174.JPG| Empty X-carriage<br />
Image:DSC_0176.JPG| Budaschnozzle placed into the carriage<br />
Image:DSC_0177.JPG| Budaschnozzle mounted and tightened onto the carriage<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Accessories=<br />
There are multiple nozzle sizes available and an optional PTFE tube for printing 1.75mm filament. Following are two videos showing how to change out these parts.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">7ExD5lY4-pI</videoflash><br />
Changing out the PTFE tube for 1.75mm or 3mm filament.<br><br />
<videoflash type="youtube">mgb7E0XYTLA</videoflash><br />
Changing out extruder nozzles<br />
<br />
=Thermistor=<br />
A thermal table has been created for the Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01 thermistor for use with the Buddhaschnozzle. The thermal table is included in the Sprinter firmware and is used by selecting thermistor 7 in the Configuration.h file in Sprinter. Change the line "#define THERMISTORHEATER 1" to "#define THERMISTORHEATER 7"<br />
<br />
=Source=<br />
{|class="wikitable" align="left";"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| Bill of Materials<br />
| Spread sheet<br />
| Spread sheet of bill of materials<br />
| [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Budaschnozzle-20110908.ods .ods]<br />
|-<br />
| Heater Block<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawings<br />
| CAD drawing for the heater block<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/heater_block_V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Nozzle<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the nozzle<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Nozzle%20V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Peek Isolator<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the PEEK isolator<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/PEEK%20Isolator%20V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Aluminum extension<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the aluminum extension<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Threaded%20Extension%20V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Upper Plate<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Upper Plate<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Upper_Plate_V1.1.DXF .dxf]<br />
|-<br />
| Lower Plate<br />
| 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Lower Plate<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Lower_Plate_V1.1.DXF .dxf]<br />
|-<br />
| Backup Plate<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Backup Plate<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/backup_plate_V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Copper Heatsink<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Copper heatsink<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Copper_Heat_Sink_V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Budaschnozzle Mount<br />
| 3D CAD model and drawing<br />
| 3D CAD model for the Budaschnozzle mount<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/budaschnozzle_mount.stl .stl]<br />
|-<br />
| Budaschnozzle Assembly<br />
| SolidWorks 2011 Assembly<br />
| 3D CAD model for the Budaschnozzle<br />
| [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24584 thingiverse]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Suppliers=<br />
[http://www.lulzbot.com/en/166-budaschnozzle-11.html LulzBot Budaschnozzle]<br />
<br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=77 GADGETS3D - G3D Buda-style v1.2]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html fabster3d eBay - G3D Buda-style v1.2]<br />
<br />
=Older versions=<br />
[[LulzBot/Budaschnozzle/1.0 | Budaschnozzle v1.0]]<br />
[[Category:LulzBot]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Budaschnozzle&diff=80773Budaschnozzle2013-02-02T12:44:08Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Suppliers */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|LulzBot/Budaschnozzle}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = Budaschnozzle1-1_001.jpg<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = BudaSchnozzle<br />
|description = Truly free/libre hot end<br />
|license = GPLv3<br />
|author = Aleph Objects, Inc.<br />
|reprap = Arcol.hu_Hot-End_Version_3.0<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Extruders|Extruders]][[Category:Extruders]], [[:Category:Hot End|Hot End]][[Category:Hot End]]<br />
|url = [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/ Budaschnozzle]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Intro=<br />
Introducing the new generation of the LulzBot hotend, the Budaschnozzle 1.1. With some tweaks and beefing up of a few parts, the Budaschnozzle 1.1 is a more robust and reliable hotend.<br />
<br />
The length of the hot zone was made longer to allow for faster printing. The PEEK isolator is now supported by the lower wooden plate with an internal thread. Nozzles are also now internally threaded and easily interchangable.<br />
<br />
*The BudaSchnozzle is a free/libre hot end.<br />
*Inspired by the [[Arcol.hu_Hot-End_Version_3.0]]<br />
<br><br />
<gallery perrow=3><br />
Image:Budaschnozzle1-1_001.jpg| Assembled Budaschnozzle v1.1<br />
Image:Budaschnozzle_v1.1.jpg| 3D CAD Rendering<br />
Image:Budaschnozzle_v1.1_cross.jpg| Cross-section Image<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Features=<br />
*Aluminum Block Resistor Hotend<br />
*Easily assembled and torn down with no glue or ceramic<br />
*Wire Strain Relief<br />
*Includes machined aluminum and steel parts, and laser cut wooden parts<br />
*Compatible with Wade's and Greg's accessible extruder<br />
*Currently compatible with:<br />
**The standard Prusa Mendel carriage<br />
**Our [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10646 Supa-Flat carriage]<br />
**Mendel [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15414 OpenX Bling carriage]<br />
<br />
=Specs=<br />
*Size at longest parts: (H,W,L) 57mm, 40mm, 40mm<br />
*Aluminum heater block<br />
**Machined aluminum heat block: 18.4mm x 25mm x 8.3mm.<br />
***M10 x 1.0 internal thread<br />
**Machined aluminum nozzle, M10 x 1.0 internal thread, 0.5mm orifice<br />
**Thermistor temperature reading: Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01<br />
**Resistor heating element: Vishay RWM06226R80JA15E1<br />
*Aluminum and copper heatsink<br />
*PEEK insulator<br />
*PTFE inner sleeve<br />
*Laser cut hard wood plates<br />
*For use with 3mm filament. 1.75mm filament can be used by changeing the inner PTFE tube.<br />
*Machined stainless steel back-up plate<br />
<br />
Note:<br />
<br />
*If you plan to make a nozzle and are wondering what size drill bit to use, a good drill chart can be found at: http://whatisacnc.com/3d-printer/3d-printer-nozzle/<br />
<br />
=Videos=<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">vYfa3DT09l8</videoflash><br />
<br><br />
<br />
=Mounting=<br />
<br />
Mounting the Budaschnozzle is SUPER easy. Once your carriage is mounted and ready to go, place the Budaschnozzle into the carriage hotend hole. Line up the holes in the Budaschnozzle mount plate with the extruder mounting holes in the carriage. Put your extruder on top of the Budaschnozzle mount plate lining up the extruder mount holes with the holes in the mount plate and carriage. Push in the the screws that are compatible with your carriage (generally M4 screws). Screw on the nuts and tighten the screws. Bam, done.<br />
<br />
Tip: Put a scrap piece of plastic filament through the extruder and into the hot-end before you tighten down the extruder. You do not need to heat the Budaschnozzle, just lightly push the filament down until it reaches the nozzle. This will align the filament travel space to give a nice smooth movement of the filament through the extruder and hot-end.<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3><br />
Image:DSC_0174.JPG| Empty X-carriage<br />
Image:DSC_0176.JPG| Budaschnozzle placed into the carriage<br />
Image:DSC_0177.JPG| Budaschnozzle mounted and tightened onto the carriage<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Accessories=<br />
There are multiple nozzle sizes available and an optional PTFE tube for printing 1.75mm filament. Following are two videos showing how to change out these parts.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">7ExD5lY4-pI</videoflash><br />
Changing out the PTFE tube for 1.75mm or 3mm filament.<br><br />
<videoflash type="youtube">mgb7E0XYTLA</videoflash><br />
Changing out extruder nozzles<br />
<br />
=Thermistor=<br />
A thermal table has been created for the Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01 thermistor for use with the Buddhaschnozzle. The thermal table is included in the Sprinter firmware and is used by selecting thermistor 7 in the Configuration.h file in Sprinter. Change the line "#define THERMISTORHEATER 1" to "#define THERMISTORHEATER 7"<br />
<br />
=Source=<br />
{|class="wikitable" align="left";"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| Bill of Materials<br />
| Spread sheet<br />
| Spread sheet of bill of materials<br />
| [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Budaschnozzle-20110908.ods .ods]<br />
|-<br />
| Heater Block<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawings<br />
| CAD drawing for the heater block<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/heater_block_V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Nozzle<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the nozzle<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Nozzle%20V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Peek Isolator<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the PEEK isolator<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/PEEK%20Isolator%20V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Aluminum extension<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the aluminum extension<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Threaded%20Extension%20V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Upper Plate<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Upper Plate<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Upper_Plate_V1.1.DXF .dxf]<br />
|-<br />
| Lower Plate<br />
| 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Lower Plate<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Lower_Plate_V1.1.DXF .dxf]<br />
|-<br />
| Backup Plate<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Backup Plate<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/backup_plate_V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Copper Heatsink<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Copper heatsink<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Copper_Heat_Sink_V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Budaschnozzle Mount<br />
| 3D CAD model and drawing<br />
| 3D CAD model for the Budaschnozzle mount<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/budaschnozzle_mount.stl .stl]<br />
|-<br />
| Budaschnozzle Assembly<br />
| SolidWorks 2011 Assembly<br />
| 3D CAD model for the Budaschnozzle<br />
| [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24584 thingiverse]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Suppliers=<br />
[http://www.lulzbot.com/en/166-budaschnozzle-11.html LulzBot Budaschnozzle]<br />
<br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=77 GADGETS3D - G3D Buda-style v2]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html fabster3d eBay - G3D Buda-style v2]<br />
<br />
=Older versions=<br />
[[LulzBot/Budaschnozzle/1.0 | Budaschnozzle v1.0]]<br />
[[Category:LulzBot]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Budaschnozzle&diff=80772Budaschnozzle2013-02-02T12:43:39Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Suppliers */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|LulzBot/Budaschnozzle}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = Budaschnozzle1-1_001.jpg<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = BudaSchnozzle<br />
|description = Truly free/libre hot end<br />
|license = GPLv3<br />
|author = Aleph Objects, Inc.<br />
|reprap = Arcol.hu_Hot-End_Version_3.0<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Extruders|Extruders]][[Category:Extruders]], [[:Category:Hot End|Hot End]][[Category:Hot End]]<br />
|url = [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/ Budaschnozzle]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Intro=<br />
Introducing the new generation of the LulzBot hotend, the Budaschnozzle 1.1. With some tweaks and beefing up of a few parts, the Budaschnozzle 1.1 is a more robust and reliable hotend.<br />
<br />
The length of the hot zone was made longer to allow for faster printing. The PEEK isolator is now supported by the lower wooden plate with an internal thread. Nozzles are also now internally threaded and easily interchangable.<br />
<br />
*The BudaSchnozzle is a free/libre hot end.<br />
*Inspired by the [[Arcol.hu_Hot-End_Version_3.0]]<br />
<br><br />
<gallery perrow=3><br />
Image:Budaschnozzle1-1_001.jpg| Assembled Budaschnozzle v1.1<br />
Image:Budaschnozzle_v1.1.jpg| 3D CAD Rendering<br />
Image:Budaschnozzle_v1.1_cross.jpg| Cross-section Image<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Features=<br />
*Aluminum Block Resistor Hotend<br />
*Easily assembled and torn down with no glue or ceramic<br />
*Wire Strain Relief<br />
*Includes machined aluminum and steel parts, and laser cut wooden parts<br />
*Compatible with Wade's and Greg's accessible extruder<br />
*Currently compatible with:<br />
**The standard Prusa Mendel carriage<br />
**Our [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10646 Supa-Flat carriage]<br />
**Mendel [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15414 OpenX Bling carriage]<br />
<br />
=Specs=<br />
*Size at longest parts: (H,W,L) 57mm, 40mm, 40mm<br />
*Aluminum heater block<br />
**Machined aluminum heat block: 18.4mm x 25mm x 8.3mm.<br />
***M10 x 1.0 internal thread<br />
**Machined aluminum nozzle, M10 x 1.0 internal thread, 0.5mm orifice<br />
**Thermistor temperature reading: Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01<br />
**Resistor heating element: Vishay RWM06226R80JA15E1<br />
*Aluminum and copper heatsink<br />
*PEEK insulator<br />
*PTFE inner sleeve<br />
*Laser cut hard wood plates<br />
*For use with 3mm filament. 1.75mm filament can be used by changeing the inner PTFE tube.<br />
*Machined stainless steel back-up plate<br />
<br />
Note:<br />
<br />
*If you plan to make a nozzle and are wondering what size drill bit to use, a good drill chart can be found at: http://whatisacnc.com/3d-printer/3d-printer-nozzle/<br />
<br />
=Videos=<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">vYfa3DT09l8</videoflash><br />
<br><br />
<br />
=Mounting=<br />
<br />
Mounting the Budaschnozzle is SUPER easy. Once your carriage is mounted and ready to go, place the Budaschnozzle into the carriage hotend hole. Line up the holes in the Budaschnozzle mount plate with the extruder mounting holes in the carriage. Put your extruder on top of the Budaschnozzle mount plate lining up the extruder mount holes with the holes in the mount plate and carriage. Push in the the screws that are compatible with your carriage (generally M4 screws). Screw on the nuts and tighten the screws. Bam, done.<br />
<br />
Tip: Put a scrap piece of plastic filament through the extruder and into the hot-end before you tighten down the extruder. You do not need to heat the Budaschnozzle, just lightly push the filament down until it reaches the nozzle. This will align the filament travel space to give a nice smooth movement of the filament through the extruder and hot-end.<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3><br />
Image:DSC_0174.JPG| Empty X-carriage<br />
Image:DSC_0176.JPG| Budaschnozzle placed into the carriage<br />
Image:DSC_0177.JPG| Budaschnozzle mounted and tightened onto the carriage<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Accessories=<br />
There are multiple nozzle sizes available and an optional PTFE tube for printing 1.75mm filament. Following are two videos showing how to change out these parts.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">7ExD5lY4-pI</videoflash><br />
Changing out the PTFE tube for 1.75mm or 3mm filament.<br><br />
<videoflash type="youtube">mgb7E0XYTLA</videoflash><br />
Changing out extruder nozzles<br />
<br />
=Thermistor=<br />
A thermal table has been created for the Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01 thermistor for use with the Buddhaschnozzle. The thermal table is included in the Sprinter firmware and is used by selecting thermistor 7 in the Configuration.h file in Sprinter. Change the line "#define THERMISTORHEATER 1" to "#define THERMISTORHEATER 7"<br />
<br />
=Source=<br />
{|class="wikitable" align="left";"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| Bill of Materials<br />
| Spread sheet<br />
| Spread sheet of bill of materials<br />
| [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Budaschnozzle-20110908.ods .ods]<br />
|-<br />
| Heater Block<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawings<br />
| CAD drawing for the heater block<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/heater_block_V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Nozzle<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the nozzle<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Nozzle%20V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Peek Isolator<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the PEEK isolator<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/PEEK%20Isolator%20V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Aluminum extension<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the aluminum extension<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Threaded%20Extension%20V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Upper Plate<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Upper Plate<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Upper_Plate_V1.1.DXF .dxf]<br />
|-<br />
| Lower Plate<br />
| 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Lower Plate<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Lower_Plate_V1.1.DXF .dxf]<br />
|-<br />
| Backup Plate<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Backup Plate<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/backup_plate_V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Copper Heatsink<br />
| 2D & 3D CAD drawing<br />
| CAD drawing for the Copper heatsink<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/Copper_Heat_Sink_V1.1.pdf .pdf]<br />
|-<br />
| Budaschnozzle Mount<br />
| 3D CAD model and drawing<br />
| 3D CAD model for the Budaschnozzle mount<br />
| [http://www.alephobjects.com/hardware/budaschnozzle/1.1/budaschnozzle_mount.stl .stl]<br />
|-<br />
| Budaschnozzle Assembly<br />
| SolidWorks 2011 Assembly<br />
| 3D CAD model for the Budaschnozzle<br />
| [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24584 thingiverse]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Suppliers=<br />
[http://www.lulzbot.com/en/166-budaschnozzle-11.html LulzBot Budaschnozzle]<br />
<br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=77 GADGETS3D - G3D Buda-style]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html fabster3d eBay - G3D Buda-style]<br />
<br />
=Older versions=<br />
[[LulzBot/Budaschnozzle/1.0 | Budaschnozzle v1.0]]<br />
[[Category:LulzBot]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=G3D_driver&diff=68610G3D driver2012-10-19T06:37:09Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = A4988 G3D Stepper Drivers<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = G3d_1.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = New generation stepper motor driver<br />
|license = CC (Noncommercial)<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
This is the new innovative stepper motor driver for your 3D printer or any task involved stepper motors! It is a new generation as replacement for Pololu/StepStick.<br />
<br />
Professional design ensure stable operation of this driver - it contain 2oz copper PCB for better heat dissipation and 0.1ohm sense resistors which let it working up to 2A (heatsink and additional air cooling is needed for operating over 1A).<br />
<br />
Using standard A4988 drivers you face the problem of vibration / shaking stepper motors and frame when stepper motors are moving (most noticeable on Z stage). These drivers solves this problem by using an additional 30k trimpot to correctly select the off-time settings. <br />
-------------<br />
Is it complicated to use? <br />
<br />
No, you only need to turn second trimpot (OSC) fully counterclokwise and that's all - you can enjoy smoother and quieter stepper motors operation and no more lost motor steps because of non-optimal off-time settings.<br />
-------------<br />
For what we need second trimpot ?<br />
<br />
This is just 30k trimpot which turned fully counterclokwise pulling ROSC pin into ground and turning it clockwise let you to choose reference.<br />
-------------<br />
Quotet from A4988 datasheet:<br />
<br />
"By pulling the ROSC pin to ground (second trimpot turned fully counter clockwise in our driver), mixed decay is set to <br />
be active 100% of the time, for both rising and falling currents, and <br />
prevents missed steps. If this is not an issue, it <br />
is recommended that automatically-selected mixed decay be used, <br />
because it will produce reduced ripple currents. Refer to the Fixed <br />
Off-Time section for details."<br />
<br />
You can check A4988 datasheet for more informations.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
4pcs or 5pcs G3D Drivers fully soldered and assembled and ready to use:<br />
<br />
4pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
5pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=72 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/> <br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=VREF Calculation Formula=<br />
<br />
REF = I_TripMax * 8 * 0.1<br />
I_TripMax - Trip current of your motor (A)<br />
<br />
Example: 0.4A * 8 * 0.1 = 0.32V<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_11.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_22.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_33.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_Driver_schematic.jpg|Schematic]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_driver_rev0.rar|Gerber files]]<br />
<br />
=Licences=<br />
<br />
[[File:88x31.png]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=G3D_driver&diff=68609G3D driver2012-10-19T06:35:27Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = A4988 G3D Stepper Drivers<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = G3d_1.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = New generation stepper motor driver<br />
|license = CC (Noncommercial)<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
This is the new innovative stepper motor driver for your 3D printer or any task involved stepper motors! It is a new generation as replacement for Pololu/StepStick.<br />
<br />
Professional design ensure stable operation of this driver - it contain 2oz copper PCB for better heat dissipation and 0.1ohm sense resistors which let it working up to 2A (heatsink and additional air cooling is needed for operating over 1A).<br />
<br />
Using standard A4988 drivers you face the problem of vibration / shaking stepper motors and frame when stepper motors are moving (most noticeable on Z stage). These drivers solves this problem by using an additional 30k trimpot to correctly select the off-time settings. <br />
-------------<br />
Is it complicated to use? <br />
<br />
No, you only need to turn second trimpot (OSC) fully counterclokwise and that's all - you can enjoy smoother and quieter stepper motors operation and no more lost motor steps because of non-optimal off-time settings.<br />
-------------<br />
For what we need second trimpot ?<br />
<br />
This is just 30k trimpot which turned fully counterclokwise pulling ROSC pin into ground and turning it clockwise let you to choose reference.<br />
-------------<br />
Quotet from A4988 datasheet:<br />
<br />
"By pulling the ROSC pin to ground (second trimpot turned fully counter clockwise in our driver), mixed decay is set to <br />
be active 100% of the time, for both rising and falling currents, and <br />
prevents missed steps. If this is not an issue, it <br />
is recommended that automatically-selected mixed decay be used, <br />
because it will produce reduced ripple currents. Refer to the Fixed <br />
Off-Time section for details."<br />
<br />
You can check A4988 datasheet for more informations.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
4pcs or 5pcs G3D Drivers fully soldered and assembled and ready to use:<br />
<br />
4pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
5pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=72 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/> <br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=VREF Calculation Formula=<br />
<br />
REF = I_TripMax * 8 * 0.1<br />
I_TripMax - Trip current of your motor (A)<br />
<br />
Example: 0.4A * 8 * 0.1 = 0.32V<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_11.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_22.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_33.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_Driver_schematic.jpg|Schematic]]<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_driver_rev0.rar|Gerber files]]<br />
<br />
=Licences=<br />
<br />
[[File:88x31.png]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=G3D_driver&diff=68608G3D driver2012-10-19T06:33:49Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = A4988 G3D Stepper Drivers<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = G3d_1.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = New generation stepper motor driver<br />
|license = CC (Noncommercial)<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
This is the new innovative stepper motor driver for your 3D printer or any task involved stepper motors! It is a new generation as replacement for Pololu/StepStick.<br />
<br />
Professional design ensure stable operation of this driver - it contain 2oz copper PCB for better heat dissipation.<br />
<br />
Using standard A4988 drivers you face the problem of vibration / shaking stepper motors and frame when stepper motors are moving (most noticeable on Z stage). These drivers solves this problem by using an additional 30k trimpot to correctly select the off-time settings. <br />
-------------<br />
Is it complicated to use? <br />
<br />
No, you only need to turn second trimpot (OSC) fully counterclokwise and that's all - you can enjoy smoother and quieter stepper motors operation and no more lost motor steps because of non-optimal off-time settings.<br />
-------------<br />
For what we need second trimpot ?<br />
<br />
This is just 30k trimpot which turned fully counterclokwise pulling ROSC pin into ground and turning it clockwise let you to choose reference.<br />
-------------<br />
Quotet from A4988 datasheet:<br />
<br />
"By pulling the ROSC pin to ground (second trimpot turned fully counter clockwise in our driver), mixed decay is set to <br />
be active 100% of the time, for both rising and falling currents, and <br />
prevents missed steps. If this is not an issue, it <br />
is recommended that automatically-selected mixed decay be used, <br />
because it will produce reduced ripple currents. Refer to the Fixed <br />
Off-Time section for details."<br />
<br />
You can check A4988 datasheet for more informations.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
4pcs or 5pcs G3D Drivers fully soldered and assembled and ready to use:<br />
<br />
4pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
5pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=72 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/> <br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=VREF Calculation Formula=<br />
<br />
REF = I_TripMax * 8 * 0.1<br />
I_TripMax - Trip current of your motor (A)<br />
<br />
Example: 0.4A * 8 * 0.1 = 0.32V<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_11.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_22.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_33.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_Driver_schematic.jpg|Schematic]]<br />
[[Media:A4988_G3D_driver_rev0.rar|Gerber files]]<br />
<br />
=Licences=<br />
<br />
[[File:88x31.png]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:A4988_G3D_Driver_schematic.jpg&diff=68607File:A4988 G3D Driver schematic.jpg2012-10-19T06:16:48Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:A4988_G3D_driver_rev0.rar&diff=68606File:A4988 G3D driver rev0.rar2012-10-19T06:12:06Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=StepStick&diff=68519StepStick2012-10-18T03:21:24Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where to buy? */</p>
<hr />
<div>:''Please note: StepStick has 0.2 ohm sense resistors instead of [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s 0.05 ohm. This limits the current to 1A. See Notes on building for more info.''<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = StepStick<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = CIMG6304.jpg<br />
|description = Revision 0.1<br />
|author = Joem<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics development|Electronics development]] [[Category:Electronics development]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
With the recent outage of [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s, I've been wanting to build my own, and break my dependency (no offense, I <3 you Pololu!). And after spending a lot of time designing the [[Sanguinololu|another]] board, I figured I could give this a go.<br />
<br />
This is an Allegro A4983 / A4988 x4 breakout board for [[Sanguinololu]]. It can be snapped apart at the score in case of Allegro failure, and replaced with another or a Pololu. Snap all 4 apart and get a pin-compatible clones for use on boards like [[RAMPS]] or [[Generation_7_Electronics | Gen7]].<br />
<br />
Now this is not for the iron wielding solderer. All parts are SMT, and somewhat small - there are some 0402 sized packages. Not to mention the Allegro's thermal pad - a solder pad on the bottom of the chip - can't be soldered without an iron of magic.<br />
<br />
That being said, I believe this is an easy to solder board using a toaster oven or hotplate reflow method. There is not too many pads facilitating easy solder paste application using a syringe, and the components should be spaced out enough that a steady hand with fine tweezers can place them. If you've built [[Sanguinololu]] with success, perhaps this is the next challenge on your soldering skills adventures. (Take a look at youtube for oven and hotplate reflow methods - not hard at all!)<br />
<br />
But if you're not up to the task, stay tuned and keep an eye on this place for a published list of places where you can get this pre-assembled.<br />
<br />
== Notes on building ==<br />
The Pololu A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1182 is produced on a 2oz copper PCB board. Most PCBs use 1oz copper boards, and Stepstick is designed to use this weight PCB. However, thermal dissipation will be much less than the 2oz copper used on the Pololu carrier. As such, the Stepstick has been designed with a current limit of 1A to suit a 1oz, 2-layer PCB, which should generally be plenty for reprap-type applications. This may be a limiting factor if you plan to use the same electronics for milling, or larger NEMA23 motors, where current draw is likely to be higher. If you are getting the boards produced yourself, you can of course choose how much copper to put in, and hence the thermal characteristics. The Allegro A4988 chip (datasheet available from: http://www.allegromicro.com/Products/Motor-Driver-And-Interface-ICs/Bipolar-Stepper-Motor-Drivers/A4988.aspx ) is capable of 35V and 2A, but this is based on using a 4-layer PCB, so lots of copper to dissipate heat. You can attach heatsinks and have a fan directed at the electronics to improve heat dissipation. The A4988 has a built-in thermal cut-out, so will turn off if it gets too hot.<br><br />
To increase the current output, you will need to change the value of the sense resistors (S1, S2), and the trimpot (T1) and/or it's resistor (R1). See this thread for more details and suggested values: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,128220<br />
<br />
Another consideration is the problem of using x16 microstepping in a low-current application. The Allegro A4988 has a "Low Current Microstepping" mode, enabled by shorting the ROSC pin to ground, R4 in the case of the Stepstick. Nophead discusses the reasons for doing this in this article: http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/stepstuck.html<br />
<br />
Nophead has written a number of other very useful articles about the stepstick, and stepper motors and drivers in general:<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/stepstuck.html<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/motor-maths.html<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/lessons-from-a3977.html<br />
<br />
If you find any other useful discussions related to the Stepstick, please link them in below.<br />
<br />
== BOM ==<br />
This is the Bill of Materials for a standard Stepstick, ie one limited to 1A.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Item <br />
! Package <br />
! Value <br />
! Value <br />
! Tolerance <br />
! Voltage <br />
! Position <br />
! Note<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||0402||0.1uf|| ||10%||16V||C1, C2, C5, C6||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||0402||0.22uf|| ||10%||16V||C4, C7||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||1206||4.7uf|| ||10%||16V||C3||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Motor driver chip||QNF|| || || || ||IC1||Allegro A4988<br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0805||0.2ohm|| 0.25W|| 1%|| ||S1,S2||Change these sense resistors to alter current limit<br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||10k|| ||10%|| ||R4|| <br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||20k|| ||10%|| ||R1|| <br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||100k|| ||10%|| ||R2, R3|| <br />
|-<br />
|Trimpot||3mm||10k|| || || || T1|| Change trimpot to alter current limit in conjunction with S1, S2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Adjusting and testing the current ==<br />
You change the current to the motor by adjusting the trimpot. Set the trimpot to minimum to start with, by turning the trimpot fully anti-clockwise. Turn clockwise until the motors are not skipping steps at your target speed and load.<br />
<br />
To find out the current that is actually being delivered, follow this advice from nophead http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,128220,129335#msg-129335<br />
<br />
<blockquote>There is a test point for VREF on the Pololu but it is missing on the Stepstick. Since it is just the wiper of the pot you can measure it there and it is easier as it is a bigger target. I hold the meter probe on the shaft of a metal screwdriver so I can see the value while I am turning the pot.<br />
<br />
The current will be VREF / (8 * RS).</blockquote><br />
<br />
== Where to buy? ==<br />
<br />
* New G3D Drivers + heatsink [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=72 GADGETS3D]<br />
* New G3D Drivers and heatsink [http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br />
* StepStick with A4988, heatsink and conductive copper foil sticker or heatsink compoud [http://stores.ebay.ca/reprapdiscount RepRapDiscount.com]<br />
* ebay.com (tijnekind)[http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stepstick-A4983-stepper-driver-board-RepRap-/300579027699?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_146&hash=item45fbe7faf3]<br />
* [http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=stepstick&_sacat=See-All-Categories Ebay] for all sellers<br />
* UK based seller on [http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=226 eMAKERshop] Boards right now, kits coming soon, contact through eMAKERshop<br />
* Fully assembled and tested boards with heatsink at [http://www.reprap.me RepRap.me] -- NOTE! 1/8 step only. These are NOT true StepSticks, they have been modified to use the less expensive (and less capable) A4984, not the A4988.<br />
* Fully assembled boards at [http://www.avrthing.com AVRThing.com] -- NOTE these have the A4983 and .22 ohm sense resistors<br />
<br />
== Schematic & Board Images ==<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Top.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Bottom.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Schematic.png|600px]]<br />
<br />
Not obvious from this schematics: the trimpot has 10&nbsp;k&Omega;. See [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,95013,95177#msg-95177].<br />
<br />
Herewith StepStick A4988 picture, its manufactured by SMD factory<br />
Unit now, I was tested by using Ramps1.2 + Arduino Atmage1280 + Sprinter Firmware.<br />
And it run very good.<br />
<br />
Follows video shown that above hardware setup and using 80mm/s FeedRate running test cube printing test.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">a3E31A5bu9Q|320|240</videoflash><br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">SjQVLWIA9-A&feature=channel_video_title|320|240</videoflash><br />
<br />
[[Image:CIMG6304.jpg|640px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:CIMG6369.jpg|320px]] <br />
[[Image:CIMG6378.jpg|320px]] <br />
[[Image:Stepstick_single_macro.jpg|320px]]<br />
<br />
== EAGLE files==<br />
https://github.com/mosfet/StepStick</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=G3D_driver&diff=68502G3D driver2012-10-17T19:45:21Z<p>Gadgets3d: Created page with '{{Development <!--Header--> |name = A4988 G3D Stepper Drivers |status = working <!--Image--> |image = G3d_1.jpg <!--General--> |description = New generation stepper motor driver …'</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = A4988 G3D Stepper Drivers<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = G3d_1.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = New generation stepper motor driver<br />
|license = CC (Noncommercial)<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
This is the new innovative stepper motor driver for your 3D printer or any task involved stepper motors! It is a new generation as replacement for Pololu/StepStick it is fully compatible with Pololu and StepStick.<br />
<br />
Professional design ensure stable operation of this driver - it contain double copper PCB for better heat dissipation.<br />
<br />
Using standard A4988 drivers you face the problem of vibration / shaking stepper motors and frame when stepper motors are moving (most noticeable on Z stage). These drivers solves this problem by using an additional 30k trimpot to correctly select the off-time settings. Is it complicated to use? No, you only need to turn second trimpot (OSC) fully counterclokwise and that's all - you can enjoy smoother and quieter stepper motors operation and no more lost motor steps because of non-optimal off-time settings.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
4pcs or 5pcs G3D Drivers fully soldered and assembled and ready to use:<br />
<br />
4pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
5pcs [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=72 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/> <br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=VREF Calculation Formula=<br />
<br />
REF = I_TripMax * 8 * 0.1<br />
I_TripMax - Trip current of your motor (A)<br />
<br />
Example: 0.4A * 8 * 0.1 = 0.32V<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_11.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_22.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:G3d_33.jpg]]<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
Files will be available within 24-48h.<br />
<br />
=Licences=<br />
<br />
[[File:88x31.png]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:G3d_33.jpg&diff=68501File:G3d 33.jpg2012-10-17T19:41:04Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:G3d_22.jpg&diff=68500File:G3d 22.jpg2012-10-17T19:39:45Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:G3d_11.jpg&diff=68499File:G3d 11.jpg2012-10-17T19:37:52Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:G3d_1.jpg&diff=68498File:G3d 1.jpg2012-10-17T19:21:41Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:88x31.png&diff=68497File:88x31.png2012-10-17T19:13:52Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PCB_Heatbed&diff=64333PCB Heatbed2012-09-03T05:34:59Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* EU */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|description = PCB Heatbed<br />
|status = working<br />
|author = Josef Průša<br />
|reprap = mendel/darwin/repstraps<br />
|cadModel = [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
|categories = [[Category:Heated Bed]]<br />
|image = PCB_HEATBED.jpg<br />
|url = http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==WARNING==<br />
<span style="color:red;>"'''WARNING!!!'''<br />
Be aware from where you buying the PCB heatbeds!!<br />
There is one critical thing, the heatbed must be etched directly from 35um copper clad! ASK YOUR SELLER!!!<br />
If the board is plated, as it's normally done, no manufacturer can guarantee the final thickness of copper or even how even the copper is around the board.<br />
Which means that the final power wont be evenly distributed around the board or the board wont have high enough output generally. <br />
<br />
'''Main warning sign are plated holes! Plating of holes requires copper plating.'''<br />
<br />
</span><br />
<br />
==About==<br />
<br />
PCB Heatbed MK1 is developed by Josef Průša<br />
<br />
I was working on this idea for nearly six months, inspired by [http://neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 ].<br />
<br />
==Where to get it==<br />
The .brd file is available here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
<br />
Mechanical drawings for designing mounting plates/etc (if desired) are here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21271]]<br />
<br />
(Please note that I dont get any provision from these :-))<br />
Manufactured PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
=== Asia ===<br />
<br />
[http://reprapdiscount.ecwid.com/simple-store#ecwid:category=2855167&mode=product&product=12583494 Reprapdiscount Hong Kong and Worldwide]<br />
<br />
=== EU ===<br />
GADGETS3D (Poland, Worldwide) http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=68<br />
<br />
RepRapSource (Germany) http://www.reprapsource.com/en/shop/show/6403<br />
<br />
Cubic Print (Germany) http://www.cubic-print.com/PCB-heated-bed<br />
<br />
LHPPortugal(Portugal) http://www.lhpportugal.com/loja/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=193<br />
<br />
=== USA ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.makergear.com/products/3d-printers MakerGear]<br />
<br />
[http://www.lulzbot.com/en/14-heated-print-bed.html Lulzbot]<br />
<br />
[http://ultimachine.com/content/prusa-pcb-heated-bed Ultimachine]<br />
<br />
[http://www.reprap-usa.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51 RepRap-USA]<br />
<br />
==Printing==<br />
<br />
<br />
Cover the bed with kapton tape. Degrease it and print.<br />
<br />
ABS temp: 110°C<br />
PLA temp: 50-60°C<br />
<br />
MAKE SURE YOUR PSU HAS 10 MORE AMPS SPARE!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
==Mounting==<br />
<br />
<br />
Known working solution, I (prusajr) use is Glass sheet (3mm) with glued on cork standoffs and on top of that is glued the heatbed.<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919911/<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919707/<br />
<br />
<br />
When mounted only using the four corners, the inherent warp of the pcb can be a problem, hence it is better to use the cork mounting system above (as the piece of cork in the centre helps to keep the pcb flat).<br />
Magnets can be used in replace of the cork, this makes the bed removable. However, I (mooneyj) have only tried this on a darwin type printer (where the build platform only moves in z). During fast printing, the darwin vibrates and it seems the heatbed magnets slide over each other slightly. The acceleration of the y axis on a mendel may cause the magnets to slide also. Perhaps a hybrid of magnet and bolt mounting would work well?.<br />
<br />
<br />
The current standard, however, is to simply place the glass on top of the heatbed, and affix it on the four sides with bulldog clips. The clips will not melt under pressure, and sufficiently hold the glass to the bed. This makes removal more easily for cleaning as well.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': According to the Eagle file posted on Thingiverse, the M3 holes are spaced 209 mm<br />
<br />
Mechanical drawings are here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21271]]<br />
<br />
==Sides==<br />
<br />
PCB Bed has two sides, one with the traces (bottom side) and one with silkscreen (top).<br />
<br />
Printing on top side is safer, works great.<br />
<br />
Printing on bottom is more effective and heats up quicker. (Though the LED, resistor and wire connections are liable to collision with the print head. Also the tracks could be damaged if the print head collides. Make sure your z-bed-springs are not too strong to prevent damage during a collision).<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Connection==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Optional LEDs===<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resistor.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Mount the LEDs in different directions (polarity) so that one of the LEDs will light up regardless of the board's polarity. You can use a single LED if you are certain of the polarity.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED_DIAGRAM.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Electronics===<br />
''RAMPS''<br />
<br />
See [[RAMPS1.4]], [[RAMPS1.3]], or [[RAMPS1.2]] depending on your version.<br />
<br />
''Sanguinolou''<br />
The MK2 PCB heatbed heats up to 110C when powered through the heated bed connection on Sanguinolou, your power supply should be 300W and ensure your wires from your power supply to the Sanguinololu should be capable of handling the total draw of 20A+. Using a 300W ATX power supply with the 4wire ATX dual 12V connector is working well for me.<br />
<br />
N.B. It is recommended that you use a heatsink on your heated bed mosfet, it will get hot!<br />
<br />
N.B. It is recommended that you measure the resistance of your board. I (evilB) didn't and blew up my Ramps 1.2 MOSFET because of a too high current. My measured resistance was 0.8 Ohm.<br />
<br />
==Testing==<br />
<br />
Its now in working state, Printed load of kits on it, working great.<br />
<br />
<br />
Main Idea is to use resistance of pcb traces as heating element.<br />
<br />
The following video shows a PCB heatbed MK2 being heated to 60 degrees as seen by an infrared camera:<br />
<videoflash>QE90bDUaAno</videoflash><br />
<br />
== FORKS (not done by Prusa)==<br />
<br />
=== MK2 ===<br />
(It's not successor of MK1 even with it's name. It's concurrent design. - Josef Prusa)<br />
<br />
==== About ====<br />
<br />
'''MK2 Heatbed - Minor changes by Tony Lock'''<br />
<br />
I liked Josef's original design but wanted to be able to use through hole components, have the thermistor poke through the middle and for it to look good on the 'back' with the silkscreen that Josef designed on that side as well.<br />
<br />
The MK2a has a few further changes:<br />
- A mounting hole in the middle of one edge to allow for easier bed leveling<br />
thanks to [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2012/05/bed-levelling.html Nophead] for this suggestion.<br />
- Larger LED and Resistor pads to allow for 1206 size surface mount components<br />
- Much larger area to solder the current carrying wire, easily connect ribbon cable<br />
(such as with the Mendel90 headbed connection). Also the through holes increased in size.<br />
- The redundant pads on the non-heating element side of the board removed to prevent confusion.<br />
These are not electrically connected if the board is not plated (plated boards are bad for the<br />
reasons outlined by Josef Prusa above).<br />
<br />
====Where to get it ====<br />
The MK2 .brd file is available here: [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2.brd]]<br />
<br />
The MK2a .brd file is available here [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2a.brd]]<br />
<br />
Manufactured MK2 PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59 www.gadgets3d.com]<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.me/RepRap-PCB-Heatbed-MK2 www.RepRap.me]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=heatbed+reprap+MK2a&_sacat=See-All-Categories#ptm eBay MK2a]<br />
<br />
[http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=126 eMakerShop MK2a]<br />
<br />
[http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150828114696&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT Reprapdiscount eBay]<br />
<br />
==== Printing ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
Although you can print directly to the bed covered in polyimide tape, no PCB is perfectly flat. It is recommended that you follow the directions in mounting, below, for better results.<br />
<br />
==== Mounting ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The MK2 board can be mounted either side up and is designed to be mounted as Josef describes:<br />
<br />
http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
The holes in the 4 corners to attach the heated bed MK2 to the top print plate are not suitable for M3 bolts though! Use M2.5 instead.<br />
<br />
The glass protects the tracks from a head crash and is easily swapped out.<br />
<br />
The board dimensions are identical to the MK1 design.<br />
<br />
Insulation between the board and the thick plate should improve heat-up times and reduce energy consumption. An example is here:<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_heated_bed#Thermal_Insulation<br />
<br />
''Caution, I have not tried this with the temperatures that the PCB bed can reach!''<br />
<br />
'''MK2a'''<br />
<br />
The MK2a has a central mounting hole on the front side to allow for three point mounting. This is much easier for bed leveling in comparison to 4 point mounting. First level the side with two holes and fix in place, then level the side with one hole. A glass plate is highly recommended to provide a truly flat surface and rigidity.<br />
<br />
[[File:Mk2a_Central_Mount_Point.jpg |200 px]]<br />
<br />
====Sides====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The PCB still has a side with the traces on and a side without but now the silkscreen is on both the top and bottom, this makes it look good even when 'upside down' under a layer of glass. The LED, resistor and power wires can be mounted on either side of the board, with either surface mount or through hole components. If you are using through hole be careful when soldering not to interfere with the glass and introduce a gap between the glass and the PCB. If the MK2 board is made properly without copper plating then be sure to only solder the LED and resistor to the same side and the tracks. This problem is solved in the MK2a by removing the pads on the non connected side.<br />
<br />
MK2<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_front_small.jpg| 400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
MK2a<br />
[[File:Mk2a.jpg| 400px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
There is a central hole in the board (similar to this one http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1).<br />
It is sized so a small thermistor<br />
(for example the EPCOS one: http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=3878697 ) will fit though it allowing contact directly with the glass.<br />
''todo: test efficacy of using heat sink compound to better thermally couple the thermistor to the glass''<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_therm_hole.jpg| 200px]]<br />
<br />
====Connection====<br />
Polarity doesn't affect the PCB, however the LEDs have a polarity.<br />
<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
There are pads and un-plated through holes for connecting the power wires. Ensure that the wire you use is thick enough for 10A, and solder it to the pads on the track side of the PCB. It is a good idea to think about strain relief so your moving build platform does not flex the joint, this can lead to failure of the joint over time. I recommend routing the wire from the heated bed to strain relief on the thick sheet before routing it to your controller/power supply. ''todo: get pictures of strain relief''<br />
<br />
'''MK2a'''<br />
<br />
The pads to solder onto have been greatly increased as shown in the picture below. The picture shows the wires prepared for soldering routed through the holes for extra security. This does not remove the need to use proper strain relief.<br />
<br />
[[File:Mk2a_Through_Hole.jpg|400 px]]<br />
<br />
=====Optional LEDs=====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resistor. Solder the components to the pads on the track side of the PCB. With the MK2, conventional wired parts can be substituted for the surface mount parts. If your MK2 board is made properly without copper plating then be sure to only solder the LED and resistor to the same side and the tracks. This problem is solved in the MK2a by removing the pads on the non connected side.<br />
<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x surface mount (805 size on the MK1 and MK2, 1206 size on the MK2a for easier soldering) or conventional through-hole LEDs. Install with opposite polarity so one or the other will light up regardless of the polarity of the power supply to the board.<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm surface mount or through-hole resistor</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_1.3/1.4_GADGETS3D_Shield_with_Panel&diff=62862RAMPS 1.3/1.4 GADGETS3D Shield with Panel2012-08-10T15:47:01Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Design Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = GADGETS3D Shield with Panel<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = GADGETS3D_shield_main.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Run your RAMPS without computer!<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|based on = bkubicek controller design<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
Ever wanted to run your RepRap powered by RAMPS 1.3/1.4 without bonding computer into it? <br />
<br />
This panel and RAMPS GADGETS3D shield will let print your G-Code files from an SD card and <br />
show you all informations about current print also live tuning is possible - everything <br />
without computer connected.<br />
<br />
After connecting this panel into your RAMPS you are totally free of USB connection, all <br />
functions as axes moves, calibrations, setup you can done just by few rotations of knob and <br />
printing can be done just using g-code stored on the SD card.<br />
<br />
RAMPS GADGETS3D shield mounting of this panel into your RAMPS 1.3/1.4 electronics should <br />
take just a few seconds - you don't need to be a cables engineer also your electronics is <br />
safe from damages due of wrong wiring. Also this GADGETS3D shield provide separate power for <br />
correct operating of SD card.<br />
<br />
This is not a new idea and main panel with LCD is based on<br />
[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15081 bkubicek Panel design] just a GADGETS3D shield is a <br />
new invention - after we spent half of day to wiring LCD into RAMPS then we try to simplify it <br />
and also made an error free connection this is how comes idea about doing it using just <br />
10pin flat cables connected into panel and easy mountable shield can be inserted into RAMPS <br />
board in few seconds.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
GADGETS3D shield + Panel including 4 rows display, 2GB SD card and ALPS rotary encoder with <br />
plastic knob - everything is assembled, soldered and ready to use.<br />
<br />
List of suppliers:<br/><br />
<br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/><br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=Software configuration=<br />
<br />
Panel works with the new Marlin firmware since release 3 so you need to upload it from <br />
precompiled hex file or you can download latest [https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Marlin sources] and configure it by yourself.<br />
<br />
In Configuration.h file search for "//#define ULTIPANEL" and remove the leading '//' so:<br />
<br />
Change "//#define ULTIPANEL" into "#define ULTIPANEL" - This activate panel functionality.<br />
Change "// #define NEWPANEL" into "#define NEWPANEL" - This activate click-encoder functionality.<br />
That is all what you need to do.<br />
<br />
If you want to modify panel functionality by yourself for example change rotation direction or disable buzzer you can do advanced changes.<br />
<br />
=Pinouts description for advanced users=<br />
<br />
In pins.h file search for line "#if MOTHERBOARD == 33 || MOTHERBOARD == 34" and go down until "#ifdef ULTRA_LCD" line.<br />
<br />
After this line you can see pinouts definitons for controlling panel which looks like a this.<br />
<br />
#define [name] pin_numer<br />
<br />
Description of this pins:<br />
<br />
#define BEEPER 33 - Beeper and is Connected into GADGETS3D shield MEGA_18BEEPER pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_RS 16 - LCD control and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCDRS pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17 - LCD enable pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCDE pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D4 23 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD4 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D5 25 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD5 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D6 27 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD6 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D7 29 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD7 pin<br />
#define BTN_EN1 37 - Encoder left direction and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_E1 pin<br />
#define BTN_EN2 35 - Encoder right direction and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_E2 pin<br />
#define BTN_ENC 31 - Encoder Push/Click signal and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_EC<br />
<br />
For example to reverse direction of rotary encoder you can swap values of BTN_EN1 and <br />
<br />
BTN_EN2 difinitions into:<br />
<br />
#define BTN_EN1 35<br />
#define BTN_EN2 37<br />
<br />
For disable buzzer:<br />
<br />
#define BEEPER -1<br />
<br />
You can also find definitions about SD card pins but this values better don't touch only SDCARDDETECT value you can change without any problem<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_main2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_1.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
[[Media:RAMPS_GADGETS3_SHIELD_SCHEMATIC.jpg|GADGETS3D Shield Schematic]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:Panel_schematic.pdf|Panel schematic]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:Panel.zip|Panel gerber files]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:GADGETS3D_shield_with_panel_STP_file.rar|Panel STP files]]<br />
<br />
=SD card myths=<br />
<br />
Bigger don't means better using Marlin software you need always try to stay with cards up to 2GB even if your 4GB or 8GB card working well then this still means software have only access into low 2GB area so to be safe from any errors try to stay with 2GB or less memory cards this is still more than enought.</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:GADGETS3D_shield_with_panel_STP_file.rar&diff=62861File:GADGETS3D shield with panel STP file.rar2012-08-10T15:43:22Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_1.3/1.4_GADGETS3D_Shield_with_Panel&diff=61681RAMPS 1.3/1.4 GADGETS3D Shield with Panel2012-07-22T12:08:29Z<p>Gadgets3d: moved GADGETS3D Shield with Panel to RAMPS 1.3/1.4 GADGETS3D Shield with Panel</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = GADGETS3D Shield with Panel<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = GADGETS3D_shield_main.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Run your RAMPS without computer!<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|based on = bkubicek controller design<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
Ever wanted to run your RepRap powered by RAMPS 1.3/1.4 without bonding computer into it? <br />
<br />
This panel and RAMPS GADGETS3D shield will let print your G-Code files from an SD card and <br />
show you all informations about current print also live tuning is possible - everything <br />
without computer connected.<br />
<br />
After connecting this panel into your RAMPS you are totally free of USB connection, all <br />
functions as axes moves, calibrations, setup you can done just by few rotations of knob and <br />
printing can be done just using g-code stored on the SD card.<br />
<br />
RAMPS GADGETS3D shield mounting of this panel into your RAMPS 1.3/1.4 electronics should <br />
take just a few seconds - you don't need to be a cables engineer also your electronics is <br />
safe from damages due of wrong wiring. Also this GADGETS3D shield provide separate power for <br />
correct operating of SD card.<br />
<br />
This is not a new idea and main panel with LCD is based on<br />
[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15081 bkubicek Panel design] just a GADGETS3D shield is a <br />
new invention - after we spent half of day to wiring LCD into RAMPS then we try to simplify it <br />
and also made an error free connection this is how comes idea about doing it using just <br />
10pin flat cables connected into panel and easy mountable shield can be inserted into RAMPS <br />
board in few seconds.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
GADGETS3D shield + Panel including 4 rows display, 2GB SD card and ALPS rotary encoder with <br />
plastic knob - everything is assembled, soldered and ready to use.<br />
<br />
List of suppliers:<br/><br />
<br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/><br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=Software configuration=<br />
<br />
Panel works with the new Marlin firmware since release 3 so you need to upload it from <br />
precompiled hex file or you can download latest [https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Marlin sources] and configure it by yourself.<br />
<br />
In Configuration.h file search for "//#define ULTIPANEL" and remove the leading '//' so:<br />
<br />
Change "//#define ULTIPANEL" into "#define ULTIPANEL" - This activate panel functionality.<br />
Change "// #define NEWPANEL" into "#define NEWPANEL" - This activate click-encoder functionality.<br />
That is all what you need to do.<br />
<br />
If you want to modify panel functionality by yourself for example change rotation direction or disable buzzer you can do advanced changes.<br />
<br />
=Pinouts description for advanced users=<br />
<br />
In pins.h file search for line "#if MOTHERBOARD == 33 || MOTHERBOARD == 34" and go down until "#ifdef ULTRA_LCD" line.<br />
<br />
After this line you can see pinouts definitons for controlling panel which looks like a this.<br />
<br />
#define [name] pin_numer<br />
<br />
Description of this pins:<br />
<br />
#define BEEPER 33 - Beeper and is Connected into GADGETS3D shield MEGA_18BEEPER pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_RS 16 - LCD control and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCDRS pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17 - LCD enable pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCDE pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D4 23 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD4 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D5 25 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD5 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D6 27 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD6 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D7 29 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD7 pin<br />
#define BTN_EN1 37 - Encoder left direction and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_E1 pin<br />
#define BTN_EN2 35 - Encoder right direction and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_E2 pin<br />
#define BTN_ENC 31 - Encoder Push/Click signal and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_EC<br />
<br />
For example to reverse direction of rotary encoder you can swap values of BTN_EN1 and <br />
<br />
BTN_EN2 difinitions into:<br />
<br />
#define BTN_EN1 35<br />
#define BTN_EN2 37<br />
<br />
For disable buzzer:<br />
<br />
#define BEEPER -1<br />
<br />
You can also find definitions about SD card pins but this values better don't touch only SDCARDDETECT value you can change without any problem<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_main2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_1.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
[[Media:RAMPS_GADGETS3_SHIELD_SCHEMATIC.jpg|GADGETS3D Shield Schematic]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:Panel_schematic.pdf|Panel schematic]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:Panel.zip|Panel gerber files]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=SD card myths=<br />
<br />
Bigger don't means better using Marlin software you need always try to stay with cards up to 2GB even if your 4GB or 8GB card working well then this still means software have only access into low 2GB area so to be safe from any errors try to stay with 2GB or less memory cards this is still more than enought.</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=GADGETS3D_Shield_with_Panel&diff=61682GADGETS3D Shield with Panel2012-07-22T12:08:29Z<p>Gadgets3d: moved GADGETS3D Shield with Panel to RAMPS 1.3/1.4 GADGETS3D Shield with Panel</p>
<hr />
<div>#REDIRECT [[RAMPS 1.3/1.4 GADGETS3D Shield with Panel]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_1.3/1.4_GADGETS3D_Shield_with_Panel&diff=61680RAMPS 1.3/1.4 GADGETS3D Shield with Panel2012-07-22T12:01:57Z<p>Gadgets3d: Created page with '{{Development <!--Header--> |name = GADGETS3D Shield with Panel |status = working <!--Image--> |image = GADGETS3D_shield_main.jpg <!--General--> |description = Run your RAMPS wit…'</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = GADGETS3D Shield with Panel<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = GADGETS3D_shield_main.jpg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Run your RAMPS without computer!<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = GADGETS3D<br />
|based on = bkubicek controller design<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
Ever wanted to run your RepRap powered by RAMPS 1.3/1.4 without bonding computer into it? <br />
<br />
This panel and RAMPS GADGETS3D shield will let print your G-Code files from an SD card and <br />
show you all informations about current print also live tuning is possible - everything <br />
without computer connected.<br />
<br />
After connecting this panel into your RAMPS you are totally free of USB connection, all <br />
functions as axes moves, calibrations, setup you can done just by few rotations of knob and <br />
printing can be done just using g-code stored on the SD card.<br />
<br />
RAMPS GADGETS3D shield mounting of this panel into your RAMPS 1.3/1.4 electronics should <br />
take just a few seconds - you don't need to be a cables engineer also your electronics is <br />
safe from damages due of wrong wiring. Also this GADGETS3D shield provide separate power for <br />
correct operating of SD card.<br />
<br />
This is not a new idea and main panel with LCD is based on<br />
[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15081 bkubicek Panel design] just a GADGETS3D shield is a <br />
new invention - after we spent half of day to wiring LCD into RAMPS then we try to simplify it <br />
and also made an error free connection this is how comes idea about doing it using just <br />
10pin flat cables connected into panel and easy mountable shield can be inserted into RAMPS <br />
board in few seconds.<br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
GADGETS3D shield + Panel including 4 rows display, 2GB SD card and ALPS rotary encoder with <br />
plastic knob - everything is assembled, soldered and ready to use.<br />
<br />
List of suppliers:<br/><br />
<br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/><br />
<br />
You can also build it by yourself design files you can find at bottom of page.<br />
<br />
=Software configuration=<br />
<br />
Panel works with the new Marlin firmware since release 3 so you need to upload it from <br />
precompiled hex file or you can download latest [https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Marlin sources] and configure it by yourself.<br />
<br />
In Configuration.h file search for "//#define ULTIPANEL" and remove the leading '//' so:<br />
<br />
Change "//#define ULTIPANEL" into "#define ULTIPANEL" - This activate panel functionality.<br />
Change "// #define NEWPANEL" into "#define NEWPANEL" - This activate click-encoder functionality.<br />
That is all what you need to do.<br />
<br />
If you want to modify panel functionality by yourself for example change rotation direction or disable buzzer you can do advanced changes.<br />
<br />
=Pinouts description for advanced users=<br />
<br />
In pins.h file search for line "#if MOTHERBOARD == 33 || MOTHERBOARD == 34" and go down until "#ifdef ULTRA_LCD" line.<br />
<br />
After this line you can see pinouts definitons for controlling panel which looks like a this.<br />
<br />
#define [name] pin_numer<br />
<br />
Description of this pins:<br />
<br />
#define BEEPER 33 - Beeper and is Connected into GADGETS3D shield MEGA_18BEEPER pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_RS 16 - LCD control and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCDRS pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17 - LCD enable pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCDE pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D4 23 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD4 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D5 25 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD5 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D6 27 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD6 pin<br />
#define LCD_PINS_D7 29 - LCD singal pin and is connected into GADGETS3D shield LCD7 pin<br />
#define BTN_EN1 37 - Encoder left direction and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_E1 pin<br />
#define BTN_EN2 35 - Encoder right direction and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_E2 pin<br />
#define BTN_ENC 31 - Encoder Push/Click signal and is connected into GADGETS3D shield S_EC<br />
<br />
For example to reverse direction of rotary encoder you can swap values of BTN_EN1 and <br />
<br />
BTN_EN2 difinitions into:<br />
<br />
#define BTN_EN1 35<br />
#define BTN_EN2 37<br />
<br />
For disable buzzer:<br />
<br />
#define BEEPER -1<br />
<br />
You can also find definitions about SD card pins but this values better don't touch only SDCARDDETECT value you can change without any problem<br />
<br />
=Pictures=<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_main2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_1.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:GADGETS3D_shield_2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=Design Files=<br />
<br />
[[Media:RAMPS_GADGETS3_SHIELD_SCHEMATIC.jpg|GADGETS3D Shield Schematic]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:Panel_schematic.pdf|Panel schematic]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:Panel.zip|Panel gerber files]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=SD card myths=<br />
<br />
Bigger don't means better using Marlin software you need always try to stay with cards up to 2GB even if your 4GB or 8GB card working well then this still means software have only access into low 2GB area so to be safe from any errors try to stay with 2GB or less memory cards this is still more than enought.</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:GADGETS3D_shield_2.jpg&diff=61679File:GADGETS3D shield 2.jpg2012-07-22T11:27:38Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:GADGETS3D_shield_1.jpg&diff=61678File:GADGETS3D shield 1.jpg2012-07-22T11:20:47Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:GADGETS3D_shield_main2.jpg&diff=61677File:GADGETS3D shield main2.jpg2012-07-22T11:19:14Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:RAMPS_GADGETS3_SHIELD_SCHEMATIC.jpg&diff=61676File:RAMPS GADGETS3 SHIELD SCHEMATIC.jpg2012-07-22T11:12:49Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Panel.zip&diff=61675File:Panel.zip2012-07-22T11:10:00Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Panel_schematic.pdf&diff=61674File:Panel schematic.pdf2012-07-22T11:07:47Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:GADGETS3D_shield_main.jpg&diff=61668File:GADGETS3D shield main.jpg2012-07-22T09:48:54Z<p>Gadgets3d: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Printing_Material_Suppliers&diff=60340Printing Material Suppliers2012-06-18T04:20:22Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* 3mm diameter filament */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Filament=<br />
<br />
Below is a table listing suppliers of filament. Costs are only approximate and are likely to change. Always check before ordering, and if you can, update this page. If there are any missing fields in the table, please feel free to update. <br />
* Help migrate the remaining reviews to each company review page --> [[Filament supplier reviews]] Thanks.<br />
<br />
<br />
See also : http://www.3ders.org/pricecompare/<br />
<br />
==3mm diameter filament==<br />
<br />
''Please keep the tables in alphabetical order.''<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ ''3mm dia filament'' ([[FilamentNewSupplierCompanyEntryTemplate|Template]])<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Vendor (with link) !! Shipping location !! Material(s) !! Approximate costs $ € £ /kg !! [[FilamentNewCompanyReviewTemplate|Review]] & Additional notes<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.2printbeta.de 2PrintBeta] || From Germany || [[PLA]],[[ABS]] || $41-59/kg €32-46/kg £27-38/kg || In 100 m and 300m roll. Many colors, glow-in-the-dark, soft PLA and mixed sets are available<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.3dprinterstuff.com/shop/page/4?shop_param= 3D Printer Stuff] || From USA || [[ABS]] || $29/kg €23/kg £19/kg || Available in 1lb (0.5kg), 2lb (1kg), and 5lb (2.5kg) spools. Colors : Red, orange, yellow, green, olive, sky blue, navy blue, purple, rust, white, natural, black.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.a2aprinter.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=25 A2APrinter] || From Canada || [[PLA]], [[ABS]] || $36 - 38/kg || White, Yellow, Black<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_seeall_2?rh=k%3Aabs+filament%2Ci%3Aelectronics&keywords=abs+filament&ie=UTF8&qid=1330209408#/ref=sr_nr_p_4_2?rh=k%3Aabs+filament%2Cn%3A172282%2Cp_4%3A3D+Printer+Supplies&bbn=172282&keywords=abs+filament&ie=UTF8&qid=1337981605 3D Printer Supplies @ Amazon] || From USA || [[PLA]],[[ABS]] || $18-35/kg || 1kg/1.5kg spool rod. Many colors:natural,white, red, black, yellow,orange, green, blue, silver, gold, grey, Glow in Dark -Blue, Glow in Dark -Green, etc. 1.7mm/3mm ABS/PLA. Immediate shipping from USA. Worldwide shipping. Free shipping possible through Amazon Fullfill Prime. Return allowed.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://store.bcndynamics.com/en/7-plastics BCNdynamics] || From Spain || [[PLA]], [[ABS]] || €29,5/kg || In 1kg rolls. PLA and ABS 3mm in different colors <br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/catalog/materials Bits From Bytes] || From UK || [[ABS]], [[HDPE]], [[LDPE]], [[PLA]], [[PP]], [[uPVC]] ||$62-73/kg €49-57/kg £40-47/kg || In 1kg or 2kg rolls depending on material<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.buy3dink.com/ Buy 3D Ink] || From USA || [[ABS]] <br> [[PLA]]|| $12-35/kg €10-28/kg £8-23/kg ABS <br> $20-35/kg €16-27/kg £13-23/kg PLA|| Black, orange, green, clear<br />
|-<br />
| [http://botmill.com/index.php/materials.html BotMill] || From USA || [[ABS]], [[PLA]] || $33/kg €26/kg £22/kg || Min 1lb (0.5kg) order. Worldwide shipping - Free shipping in USA <br> Large variety of low-cost colored ABS and PLA<br>Terra Cotta, Orange, Light Blue, Olive Drab, Dark Grey<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.bio-bp.com/e_productshow/?50-PLA-3mm-3D-filament-50.html Bio-BP] || From China|| [[PLA]], [[ABS]] || $14-19/kg <br> (+$5-10/kg Shipping)|| Yellow, Green, Red<br />
|-<br />
| [http://croxwordz.blogspot.com Croxword] || From Taiwan || [[ABS]] || $17/kg €14/kg £11/kg <br> (+$14 Shipping)|| White/Black/Blue/Yellow<br />
|-<br />
| [http://czechreprap.eu czechreprap.eu] || From Czech (EU) || [[ABS]] || $20/kg €15/kg £12/kg || White / Black / Blue / Green / Red / Orange / Green<br />
|-<br />
| [http://diamondage.co.nz/pla.html Diamond Age Solutions Ltd.] || From NZ || [[PLA]], [[ABS]], IMPLA, HIPLA, HIPS, PETG etc. || NZ$33/kg $26/kg €21/kg £17/kg PLA <br> NZ$50/kg $39/kg €31/kg £26/kg ABS <br> Shipping : $10 to NZ (shipping + GST), ~NZ20$ per roll to Europe/US, less to Australia. || ~0.8kg for a 100 meter roll. Spools avail. Many colours, metallic fx & luminous + parts. 11th roll is free<br/>Contact vik [at] diamondage.co.nz<br />
|-<br />
| [http://esun.en.alibaba.com/product/472333729-212653045/productdetail.html Esun, Alibaba]|| From China || [[PLA]] [[ABS]] || $14-19/kg €11-15 £9-13/kg <br> (+$5-8/kg Shipping)|| black ,white, transparent,blue,red, yellow,green.pretty color,absolutely round shape,accurate diameter,no bubble,stable viscosity and melting point.<br />
|-<br />
|[http://www.fabber-parts.de/shop fabber-parts] || From Germany || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || €20~24 /kg 1kg/spool|| PLA (Nature, White, Green, Blue, Red, Orange, Black, Yellow, Gold, Silver, Grey, Pink) ABS (Nature, White, Green, Blue, Red, Orange, Black, Yellow, Gold, Silver, Grey, Pink)<br />
|-<br />
|[http://www.fabberworld.com fabberworld.com] || From Switzerland || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || €29 /kg 1kg/spool|| PLA (Nature, White, Green, Blue, Red, Orange, Black, Yellow, Gold, Silver, Grey, Pink) ABS (Nature, White, Green, Blue, Red, Orange, Black, Yellow, Gold, Silver, Grey, Pink)<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/ Faberdashery Ltd.] || From UK || [[PLA]] || Sold by the meter - From £0.26/m <br> ~$37-50/kg ~€29-39/kg £24-32/kg || An emporium of colored PLA, sold by the meter or in 100m coils <br> Pack with 10m of 10 colors also available (£30) [http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/print-materials/rainbow-fun-pack/ Rainbow Fun Pack]<br />
|-<br />
| [http://fabricationsofthemind.com/shop/abs/ Fabrications Of TheMind] || From UK || [[ABS]] || £20 /kg for 1kg <br> £16 /kg for 2kg (£31.95) <br> £13 /kg for 5kg (£64.95) ||Stocks getting very low. Wide range of spooled premium quality in various colours in transit for June delivery - 20% pre-order Discount.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://filamentprint.com/Filament-C281214.aspx?sid=29068 FilamentPrint Ltd] || From UK || [[PLA]], [[ABS]] || Sold by the Reel - £24-32/kg || A Quality supply of colored PLA and ABS. Reel weight optimised to minimise carriage costs.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://thefutureis3d.com/node/113 Future is 3D, The] || From USA || [[PLA]], [[ABS]] || Sold by the Reel - $33/kg || .<br />
|-<br />
| [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=60 GADGETS3D.com] || From Poland (EU) || [[PLA]] || $29.99 USD/kg || On spools for a better unrolling. Worldwide shipping.<br />
|-<br />
| [https://shop.grrf.de/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=82_83 German RepRap Foundation] || From Germany || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || €25-€34/kg : €55-€75 for 2.2kg PLA <br> €22.73/kg : €50 for 2.2kg ABS || On spools for a better unrolling. Worldwide shipping. Also have soft PLA<br />
|-<br />
| [http://handmadecircuits.com Handmade Circuits] || From USA || [[PLA]] || $40-$50 per 100m coil, $45 ten color sample pack || Many Assorted Colors, currently running $35 Sample Pack Special <br />
|-<br />
| [http://kdipolymerspecialists.co.uk KDI Polymer Specialist Ltd] || From UK || [[ABS]], [[PLA]] || £34 - 39/kg || 1kg reel. Translucent green, red and blue, all standard colours available bespoke colours on request <br> All with Free UK Shipping, trade enquiries welcome.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.kentstrapper.blogspot.com Kent's Strapper] || From Italy (EU) || [[PLA]],[[ABS]] || €45 , a partire da 45€ ||colori standard e ricercati, many colours<br />
|-<br />
| [http://lybina.com/ Lybina Pty Ltd] || From Australia || [[ABS]], [[PLA]], [[HDPE]], [[PP]], [[PVC]] || $32 /kg ($16 /lb) || 50 meter Coil (~1lb) and Bagged + GST + Transport. Contact Through Website [http://lybina.com/contact-us.html Lybina Contact Us Page] <br> Credit Card Facilities Available<br />
|-<br />
| [http://store.makerbot.com/plastic.html Makerbot] || From USA || [[ABS]], [[PLA]], [[PVA]] || $43 - 55/kg ($21 - $28/lb) ABS <br> $43 /kg ($21 /lb) PLA <br> $32 /lb ($64/kg) PVA|| Ships same day, Worldwide, [http://store.makerbot.com/plastic/1-75mm-filament.html 1.75mm] [http://store.makerbot.com/plastic/3mm-filament.html 3mm], Lots of colors and variety, high tolerance, custom manufactured. Fluorescent too!<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.makergear.com/products/filament MakerGear] || From USA || [[ABS]], [[PLA]]|| $30 - 50/kg ($15 - 25/lb)|| None<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/pla-filament/3mm-filament.html Mendel-Parts.com] || From Netherlands || [[PLA]]<br> & soon [[ABS]] || €25 - 27/kg PLA || 6 colors <br> Worldwide shipping with UPS - 3days max<br />
|-<br />
| [http://mixshop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=23 Mixshop] || From Canada || [[PLA]] || $36 - 38/kg || Black, Blue, Red<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.newimageplastic.com New Image Plastics] <br> [http://www.plasticweldingrod.com/ Plastic welding rod] <br> [http://www.3dprinterfilament.com/ 3D Printer Filament] || From USA || [[ABS]], [[PVC]], [[HDPE]], [[PLA]] || $16 /kg ($8 /lb) ABS || Min 10lb (~5kg) order. Delivery on small orders tends to take several weeks <br> Call Donna at +1 (330) 854-3010 and tell them Forrest or RepRap sent you <br> Apparently, they do not sell PLA (8/29/11: Donna said they don't stock it) but can extrude PLA supplied by a customer. .<br />
|-<br />
| [http://store.ozreprap.com Oz Reprap Supplies] || From Australia || [[PLA]] [[ABS]] || $30 / kg || 1kg and 2.5kg rolls. Many colours.<br />
|- <br />
| [http://www.paoparts.com Paoparts] || From France|| [[PLA]] || €24 /kg || In 1kg or 1,5kg roll.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.plastic2print.com Plastic2Print] || From Netherlands || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || €20-25 / kg <br>US$30-35 / kg<br>£15-20 / kg || 1.5, 2.0 or 2.3 kg/spool; prices including VAT (for EU). Non-EU get even lower prices. <br>Shipping worldwide.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.plastireal.com.br Plastireal] || From Brazil || [[PVC]] [[HDPE]] [[PP]] || R$20 /kg || São Paulo store<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.printplastic.eu/ Print Plastic] || From EU || [[PLA]] || xx € / kg || -<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.protoparadigm.com/ ProtoParadigm] || From USA || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] [[PVA]] [[Polycarbonate]] || $15.45 - $20/lb ($34 - $45/kg) ABS <br> $22 / Half Pound Glow-in-the-Dark ABS <br> $18 - $20/lb ($40 $45/kg) PLA <br> $13 / Quarter Pound PVA <br> $27 / Half Pound Polycarbonate || Very Tight Tolerances, Expanding Materials & Colors, 1kg Spools Available, 1.75mm and 3mm Diameters Available <br> ABS - Natural, Black, Neon Green, Red, Blue, Green, Glow-in-the-Dark <br> PLA - Natural, Black, Silver, White, Green, Red <br> PVA - Quarter Pound Coil <br> Polycarbonate - Half Pound Coil<br />
|-<br />
| [http://qdtsd.en.alibaba.com/productgrouplist-210256164/Plastic_Welding_rods.html#products Qingdao TSD Plastic Co., Ltd.] || From China || [[ABS]] [[HDPE]] [[PE]] [[PP]] [[PVC]] || ? || [[FilamentReviews Qingdao TSD Plastic Co|Reviews]]<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.reprapbcn.com RepRapBCN] || From Barcelona (EU) || [[ABS]], [[PLA]] || €31/kg PLA & ABS <br> || 1kg rolls 3mm & 1,75mm in stock (blue, red, green, black, yellow)<br />
|-<br />
| [http://reprapcentral.com RepRapCentral.com] || From UK || [[ABS]], [[PLA]] || £30 - 36/kg 5lb spool <br> £30 - 66/kg 1lb coil || Black/White ABS, Premium/Translucent PLA, Translucent Green, Translucent Blue, Orange, Purple, Yellow, Red, Bright Blue and a striking lime green. Next Day Shipping! (where stated), Worldwide shipping. [http://www.reprapcentral.com All Filaments]<br />
|-<br />
| [http://reprapsource.com/en/shop/list/198 RepRapSource] || From Germany || [[ABS]]<br>[[PLA]] || €24 - 30/kg ABS <br> €29 - 32 /kg PLA || For a 5lb roll. Different colours available<br />
|-<br />
| [http://RepRapKit.com RepRapKit.com] || From UK || [[ABS]]<br>[[PLA]] || from £18.78/kg inc Discount || Premium quality on spool. Limited stocks at present. Wide range of colours in transit for June delivery - 20% pre-order Discount.<br />
|-<br />
|[http://www.repraper.com Repraper Tech] || From China || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || $14~16 /kg 1kg/spool(can be customization), within 1 week delivery|| PLA (Nature, White, Green, Blue, Red, Orange, Black, Yellow, Gold, Silver, Grey, Pink) ABS (Nature, White, Green, Blue, Red, Orange, Black, Yellow, Gold, Silver, Grey, Pink)<br />
|-<br />
|[http://reprapworld.com/?searchresults&cPath=1590 RepRapWorld] || From Netherlands || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || €20 /kg (9.98 for a 500g coil)|| PLA (Blue, Red, Black, Yellow) ABS (Black, White)<br />
|-<br />
| [http://supply3dpla.com Supply3DPLA.com] || From Sweden || [[PLA]] || €39 for 2.5Kg spool or €15.6 / Kg <br> we also have odd PLA from €12/Kg || We are expanding to '''Black, Red, Green. Yellow, White, Blue, Puprle, Orange''' and '''Silver''' as standard in standard assortment. More to come. We also have our own testers as well as we are active in 3D printing our selfs.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://ultimachine.com/catalog/print-materials UltiMachine] || From USA || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || $24 - $30/kg ($12 - 15/lb) || Sold in 1 and 5lb (0.5kg and 2.3kg)<br />
|-<br />
| [https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/consumables.html Ultimaker Shop] || From Netherlands (EU) || [[PLA]], [[ABS]], flexPLA || €28 - 41/kg || In 750g and 2.3 kg reels. We offer many different colors of high quality filament. All offered material are tested extensively.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.voxelfactory.com Voxel Factory] || From Canada || [[PLA]],[[ABS]] || $33-45/kg || Check out our dual & triple spool package at low cost! Yellow, Green, Red, Orange, Black and White 1Kg spool.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.weistek.net/?q=node/8 WeisTek.net] || From China || [[PLA]],[[ABS]] || $10.9 - 19/kg + $5-8/kg freight in 2.5kg PLA reel || Expensive shipping ($42) In 1KG and 2.5kg roll. Many colors, glow-in-the-dark, soft PLA and mixed sets are available<br />
|-<br />
| [https://kd85.com/makerbot.html Wim-kd85.com] || From Belgium (EU) || [[ABS]], [[PLA]] || €20 - 32/kg ABS <br> €26 /kg PLA || 5lb rolls<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==1.75mm diameter filament==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ ''1.75mm dia filament'' ([[FilamentNewSupplierCompanyEntryTemplate|Template]])<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Vendor (with link) !! Shipping location !! Material(s) !! Approximate costs $ € £ /kg !! [[FilamentNewCompanyReviewTemplate|Review]] & Additional notes<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.3dprinterstuff.com/shop/page/6?shop_param= 3D Printer Stuff] || From USA || [[ABS]] || $33 - 38/kg ($17 - 19/lb || Available in 1, 2, and 5 lb spools. Red, orange, yellow, green, olive, sky blue, navy blue, purple, rust, white, natural, black.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.a2aprinter.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=25 A2APrinter] || From Canada || [[PLA]], [[ABS]] || $36 - 38/kg || White, Yellow, Black<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_seeall_2?rh=k%3Aabs+filament%2Ci%3Aelectronics&keywords=abs+filament&ie=UTF8&qid=1330209408 Amazon] || From USA || [[PLA]],[[ABS]] || $18-35/kg || 1kg/1.5kg spool rod. Many colors:natural,white, red, black, yellow,orange, green, blue, silver, gold, grey, etc. 1.7mm/3mm ABS/PLA. Immediate shipping from USA. Worldwide shipping. Free shipping possible through Amazon Fullfill Prime. Return allowed. <br />
|-<br />
|[http://www.bio-bp.com/e_productshow/?51-PLA-175mm-3D-filamen-51.html Bio-BP] || From China|| [[PLA]], [[ABS]] || $14-19/kg <br> (+$5-10/kg Shipping)|| Yellow/Green/Red<br />
|-<br />
| [http://botmill.com/index.php/materials.html BotMill] || From USA || [[PLA]] || $37 - $44/kg ($17 - 20/lb) || Min 5lb(11kg) order. Worldwide shipping - Free shipping in USA <br> PLA - black and natural<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.brightcn.net/e/products/prod1/p110.html BrightCN] (esunPLA)|| From China || [[PLA]] [[ABS]] || $10.9 - 19/kg + $5-8/kg freight in 2.5kg PLA reel|| black ,white, transparent,blue,red, yellow,green.pretty color,absolutely round shape,accurate diameter,no bubble,stable viscosity and melting point.<br />
|-<br />
|[http://www.Buy3DInk.com Buy 3D Ink] || From USA || [[ABS]], [[PLA]] || $35 /kg ($17/lb)|| Red, green, blue, black, white, yellow, natural<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=89_98 Cool Components] || From UK || [[ABS]] || £24.99/kg (£11.35/lb) || Available in Black, Blue, Green, Red & White (1kg spools).<br>World-wide shipping available.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://croxwordz.blogspot.com Croxword] || From Taiwan || [[ABS]] || $25 /kg ($12 /lb) : $50/ per box of 2kg (+$12 Shipping)|| White/Black/Blue/Yellow<br />
|-<br />
| [http://czechreprap.eu czechreprap.eu] || From Czech (EU) || [[ABS]] || $33/kg || Red, other colors soon<br />
|-<br />
| [http://diamondage.co.nz/pla.html Diamond Age Solutions Ltd.] || From NZ || [[PLA]], [[ABS]] || NZ$135 /kg PLA <br> NZ$200 /kg ABS <br> Shipping : ~NZ10$ per roll to Europe/US. || ~0.22kg for a 100 meter roll. Spools avail. Various colours, metallic fx & luminous. Also sells parts.<br /> Contact vik [at] diamondage.co.nz<br />
|-<br />
|[http://www.fabber-parts.de/shop fabber-parts] || From Germany || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || €20~24 /kg 1kg/spool|| PLA (Nature, White, Green, Blue, Red, Orange, Black, Yellow, Gold, Silver, Grey, Pink) ABS (Nature, White, Green, Blue, Red, Orange, Black, Yellow, Gold, Silver, Grey, Pink)<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/ Faberdashery Ltd.] || From UK || [[PLA]] || Sold by the meter - From £0.22/m <br> £54 - 64/kg || An emporium of high-quality colored PLA, sold by the meter or in 100m coils<br /> Pack with 10m of 10 colors also available (£22) [http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/products-page/print-materials/rainbow-fun-pack/ Rainbow Fun Pack]<br />
|-<br />
| [https://shop.grrf.de/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=82_83 German RepRap Foundation] || From Germany || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || €34 /kg ABS <br> €35 - 40/kg PLA || On spools for a better unrolling. Worldwide shipping. Soft PLA<br />
|-<br />
| [http://store.makerbot.com/plastic.html Makerbot] || From USA || [[ABS]], [[PLA]] || $43 - 55/kg ($21 - $27/lb) ABS <br> $43 /kg ($21 /lb) PLA || None<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.makergear.com/products/filament MakerGear] || From USA || [[ABS]] || $35 /kg ($17 /lb) || Sold in 1lb (0.5kg) rolls. Red, Blue, Green, Black, White, Orange, Pink & Purple<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/pla-filament/1-75mm-filament.html Mendel-Parts.com] || From EU || [[PLA]] <br>& soon [[ABS]] || €27 - 29/kg || 6 colors<br/>Worldwide shipping with UPS - 3days max<br />
|-<br />
| [http://mixshop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=23 Mixshop] || From Canada || [[PLA]] || $30 - 35/kg || Black, Blue, White<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.octave.com/ABS-Filament/c123457117/index.html Octave Systems] || From USA || [[ABS]] || $34.99/kg || Available in standard, fluorescent and glow-in-the-dark. Single reels or 2 and 4 reel packs. Colors include natural, white, black, blue, brown, gold, green, grey, orange, pink, purple, red, and yellow.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://store.ozreprap.com Oz Reprap Supplies] || From Australia || [[PLA]] [[ABS]] || $30/kg || 2.5kg roll. Red ABS, natural ABS & PLA.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.paoparts.com Paoparts] || From France|| [[PLA]] || €23 - 29/kg || In 1kg or 1,5kg roll.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.plastic2print.com Plastic2Print] || From Netherlands || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || €20-25 / kg <br>US$30-35 / kg<br>£15-20 / kg || 1.5, 2.0 or 2.3 kg/spool; prices including VAT (for EU). Non-EU get even lower prices. <br>Shipping worldwide.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.protoparadigm.com/ ProtoParadigm] || From USA || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] [[PVA]] [[Polycarbonate]] || $18 - $20/lb ($40 $45/kg) ABS <br> $22 / Half Pound Glow-in-the-Dark ABS <br> $18 - $20/lb ($40 $45/kg) PLA <br> $13 / Quarter Pound PVA|| Very Tight Tolerances <br> Expanding Materials & Colors <br> 1kg Spools Available <br> ABS - Natural, Black, Neon Green, Red, Blue, Green, Glow-in-the-Dark <br> PLA - Natural, Black, Silver, White, Green, Red <br> PVA - Quarter Pound Coil <br> Polycarbonate - Half Pound Coil<br />
|-<br />
| [http://ultimachine.com/catalog/print-materials UltiMachine] || From USA || [[ABS]] [[PLA]] || $28 - 38/kg ($14 - 19/lb) || Sold in 1 and 5lb (0.5kg and 2.3kg)<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.reprapbcn.com RepRapBCN] || From Barcelona (EU) || [[ABS]], [[PLA]] || €31/kg PLA & ABS <br> || 1kg rolls 3mm & 1,75mm in stock (blue, red, green, black, yellow)<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.repraper.com RepRaper Tech] || From China || [[ABS]], [[PLA]] || $14~16/kg PLA & ABS within 1 week delivery<br> || 1kg rolls(Can be customization, but need negotiate about the delivery time for other package), colors available(Nature, White, Green, Blue, Red, Orange, Black, Yellow, Gold, Silver, Grey, Pink) [[All filaments]]<br />
|-<br />
| [http://RepRapKit.com RepRapKit.com] || From UK || [[ABS]]<br>[[PLA]] || from £18.78/kg inc Discount || Premium quality on spool. Limited stocks at present. Wide range of colours in transit for June delivery - 20% pre-order Discount.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://reprapsource.com/en/shop/list/220 Reprapsource] || From Germany || [[PLA]] || €40 /kg || Natural<br />
|-<br />
| [http://supply3dpla.com Supply3DPLA.com] || From SWEDEN || [[PLA]] || €19.5 for 1.0 kg and very likely €39 for 2.3 Kg translucent soon || We are expanding to '''Black, Red, Green. White, Yellow, Blue, Puprle, Orange''' and '''Silver''' as standard in standard assortment. More to come. Extensive testing done by our testers and by us who also are active in 3D printing ourself! TRANSLUCENT filament supplier is set, we will be selling from a second source soon! Now we also have sale by the meter.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=37&vmcchk=1&Itemid=37 PP3DP] || From China || [[ABS]] || $44 /kg ($23 /lb) + $12 Shipping)|| Sold as 2x700g=3.1lb rolls. White<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.voxelfactory.com Voxel Factory] || From Canada || [[PLA]],[[ABS]] || $33-45/kg || Check out our dual & triple spool package at low cost! Yellow, Green, Red, Orange, Black and White 1Kg spool.<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.weistek.net/?q=node/12 WeisTek.net] || From China || [[PLA]],[[ABS]] || $10.9 - 19/kg + $5-8/kg freight in 2.5kg PLA reel || In 1kg and 2.3kg roll. many colors, glow-in-the-dark, soft PLA and mixed sets are available<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Photopolymers - Resin=<br />
<br />
''Please keep the tables in alphabetical order.''<br />
<br />
==Photopolymers - Resin UV Cured==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ ''Photopolymers UV 385nm'' ([[FilamentNewSupplierCompanyEntryTemplate|Template]])<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Vendor (with link) !! Shipping location !! Material(s) !! Approximate costs $ € £ /L !! [[FilamentNewCompanyReviewTemplate|Review]] & Additional notes<br />
|-<br />
| [http://bucktownpolymers.com/polymer00.html Bucktown Polymers] || From USA || Several || $35 and up/kg || Quarts/Gallons/5Gal Pails/55Gal Drums. Process colors, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black, White and many custom colors and effects.<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Photopolymers - Visible Spectrum Cured==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|+ ''Photopolymers Visible Spectrum Cured'' ([[FilamentNewSupplierCompanyEntryTemplate|Template]])<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Vendor (with link) !! Shipping location !! Material(s) !! Approximate costs $ € £ /L !! [[FilamentNewCompanyReviewTemplate|Review]] & Additional notes<br />
|-<br />
| [http://bucktownpolymers.com/polymer00.html Bucktown Polymers] || From USA || Several || $35 and up/kg || Quarts/Gallons/5Gal Pails/55Gal Drums. Process colors, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black, White and many custom colors and effects.<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Suppliers]]<br />
[[category:thermoplastic]]<br />
[[category:material]]<br />
[[category:photopolymers]]<br />
[[category:resin]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PCB_Heatbed&diff=60339PCB Heatbed2012-06-18T04:07:37Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* EU */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|description = PCB Heatbed<br />
|status = working<br />
|author = Josef Průša<br />
|reprap = mendel/darwin/repstraps<br />
|cadModel = [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
|categories = [[Category:Heated Bed]]<br />
|image = PCB_HEATBED.jpg<br />
|url = http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==WARNING==<br />
<span style="color:red;>"'''WARNING!!!'''<br />
Be aware from where you buying the PCB heatbeds!!<br />
There is one critical thing, the heatbed must be etched directly from 35um copper clad! ASK YOUR SELLER!!!<br />
If the board is plated, as it's normally done, no manufacturer can guarantee the final thickness of copper or even how even the copper is around the board.<br />
Which means that the final power wont be evenly distributed around the board or the board wont have high enough output generally. <br />
<br />
'''Main warning sign are plated holes! Plating of holes requires copper plating.'''<br />
<br />
</span><br />
<br />
==About==<br />
<br />
PCB Heatbed MK1 is developed by Josef Průša<br />
<br />
I was working on this idea for nearly six months, inspired by [http://neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 ].<br />
<br />
==Where to get it==<br />
The .brd file is available here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
<br />
Mechanical drawings for designing mounting plates/etc (if desired) are here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21271]]<br />
<br />
(Please note that I dont get any provision from these :-))<br />
Manufactured PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
=== EU ===<br />
GADGETS3D (Poland, Worldwide) http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59<br />
<br />
RepRapSource (Germany) http://www.reprapsource.com/en/shop/show/6403<br />
<br />
Cubic Print (Germany) http://www.cubic-print.com/PCB-heated-bed<br />
<br />
LHPPortugal(Portugal) http://www.lhpportugal.com/loja/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=193<br />
<br />
=== USA ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.makergear.com/products/3d-printers MakerGear]<br />
<br />
[http://www.lulzbot.com/en/14-heated-print-bed.html Lulzbot]<br />
<br />
[http://ultimachine.com/content/prusa-pcb-heated-bed Ultimachine]<br />
<br />
[http://www.reprap-usa.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51 RepRap-USA]<br />
<br />
==Printing==<br />
<br />
<br />
Cover the bed with kapton tape. Degrease it and print.<br />
<br />
ABS temp: 110°C<br />
PLA temp: 50-60°C<br />
<br />
MAKE SURE YOUR PSU HAS 10 MORE AMPS SPARE!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
==Mounting==<br />
<br />
<br />
Known working solution, I (prusajr) use is Glass sheet (3mm) with glued on cork standoffs and on top of that is glued the heatbed.<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919911/<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919707/<br />
<br />
<br />
When mounted only using the four corners, the inherent warp of the pcb can be a problem, hence it is better to use the cork mounting system above (as the piece of cork in the centre helps to keep the pcb flat).<br />
Magnets can be used in replace of the cork, this makes the bed removable. However, I (mooneyj) have only tried this on a darwin type printer (where the build platform only moves in z). During fast printing, the darwin vibrates and it seems the heatbed magnets slide over each other slightly. The acceleration of the y axis on a mendel may cause the magnets to slide also. Perhaps a hybrid of magnet and bolt mounting would work well?.<br />
<br />
<br />
The current standard, however, is to simply place the glass on top of the heatbed, and affix it on the four sides with bulldog clips. The clips will not melt under pressure, and sufficiently hold the glass to the bed. This makes removal more easily for cleaning as well.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': According to the Eagle file posted on Thingiverse, the M3 holes are spaced 209 mm<br />
<br />
Mechanical drawings are here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21271]]<br />
<br />
==Sides==<br />
<br />
PCB Bed has two sides, one with the traces (bottom side) and one with silkscreen (top).<br />
<br />
Printing on top side is safer, works great.<br />
<br />
Printing on bottom is more effective and heats up quicker. (Though the LED, resistor and wire connections are liable to collision with the print head. Also the tracks could be damaged if the print head collides. Make sure your z-bed-springs are not too strong to prevent damage during a collision).<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Connection==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Optional LEDs===<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resistor.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Mount the LEDs in different directions (polarity) so that one of the LEDs will light up regardless of the board's polarity. You can use a single LED if you are certain of the polarity.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED_DIAGRAM.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Electronics===<br />
''RAMPS''<br />
<br />
See [[RAMPS1.4]], [[RAMPS1.3]], or [[RAMPS1.2]] depending on your version.<br />
<br />
''Sanguinolou''<br />
The MK2 PCB heatbed heats up to 110C when powered through the heated bed connection on Sanguinolou, your power supply should be 300W and ensure your wires from your power supply to the Sanguinololu should be capable of handling the total draw of 20A+. Using a 300W ATX power supply with the 4wire ATX dual 12V connector is working well for me.<br />
<br />
N.B. It is recommended that you use a heatsink on your heated bed mosfet, it will get hot!<br />
<br />
N.B. It is recommended that you measure the resistance of your board. I (evilB) didn't and blew up my Ramps 1.2 MOSFET because of a too high current. My measured resistance was 0.8 Ohm.<br />
<br />
==Testing==<br />
<br />
Its now in working state, Printed load of kits on it, working great.<br />
<br />
<br />
Main Idea is to use resistance of pcb traces as heating element.<br />
<br />
The following video shows a PCB heatbed MK2 being heated to 60 degrees as seen by an infrared camera:<br />
<videoflash>QE90bDUaAno</videoflash><br />
<br />
== FORKS (not done by Prusa)==<br />
<br />
=== MK2 ===<br />
(It's not successor of MK1 even with it's name. It's concurrent design. - Josef Prusa)<br />
<br />
==== About ====<br />
<br />
'''MK2 Heatbed - Minor changes by Tony Lock'''<br />
<br />
I liked Josef's original design but wanted to be able to use through hole components, have the thermistor poke through the middle and for it to look good on the 'back' with the silkscreen that Josef designed on that side as well.<br />
<br />
====Where to get it ====<br />
The MK2 .brd file is available here: [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2.brd]]<br />
<br />
Manufactured MK2 PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59 www.gadgets3d.com]<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.me/RepRap-PCB-Heatbed-MK2 www.RepRap.me]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=heated+bed+reprap&_sacat=See-All-Categories#ptm eBay]<br />
<br />
[http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=126 eMakerShop]<br />
<br />
==== Printing ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
Although you can print directly to the bed covered in polyimide tape, no PCB is perfectly flat. It is recommended that you follow the directions in mounting, below, for better results.<br />
<br />
==== Mounting ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The MK2 board can be mounted either side up and is designed to be mounted as Josef describes:<br />
<br />
http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
The holes in the 4 corners to attach the heated bed MK2 to the top print plate are not suitable for M3 bolts though! Use M2.5 instead.<br />
<br />
The glass protects the tracks from a head crash and is easily swapped out.<br />
<br />
The board dimensions are identical to the MK1 design.<br />
<br />
Insulation between the board and the thick plate should improve heat-up times and reduce energy consumption. An example is here:<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_heated_bed#Thermal_Insulation<br />
<br />
''Caution, I have not tried this with the temperatures that the PCB bed can reach!''<br />
<br />
====Sides====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The PCB still has a side with the traces on and a side without but now the silkscreen is on both the top and bottom, this makes it look good even when 'upside down' under a layer of glass. The LED, resistor and power wires can be mounted on either side of the board, with either surface mount or through hole components. If you are using through hole be careful when soldering to not have overhang on the other side of the board that could interfere with the glass and introduce a gap between the glass and the PCB.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_front_small.jpg]]<br />
<br />
There is a central hole in the board (similar to this one http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1).<br />
It is sized so a small thermistor<br />
(for example the EPCOS one: http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=3878697 ) will fit though it allowing contact directly with the glass.<br />
''todo: test efficacy of using heat sink compound to better thermally couple the thermistor to the glass''<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_therm_hole.jpg| 200px]]<br />
<br />
====Connection====<br />
Polarity doesn't affect the PCB, however the LEDs have a polarity.<br />
<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
There are pads and un-plated through holes for connecting the power wires. Ensure that the wire you use is thick enough for 10A, and solder it to the pads on the track side of the PCB. It is a good idea to think about strain relief so your moving build platform does not flex the joint, this can lead to failure of the joint over time. I recommend routing the wire from the heated bed to strain relief on the thick sheet before routing it to your controller/power supply. ''todo: get pictures of strain relief''<br />
<br />
[[File:UnplatedHoles.jpg| 300px]]<br />
<br />
=====Optional LEDs=====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resistor. Solder the components to the pads on the track side of the PCB. With the MK2, conventional wired parts can be substituted for the surface mount parts.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x surface mount or conventional through-hole LEDs. Install with opposite polarity so one or the other will light up regardless of the polarity of the power supply to the board.<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm surface mount or through-hole resistor</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=PCB_Heatbed&diff=60338PCB Heatbed2012-06-18T04:05:28Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where to get it */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|description = PCB Heatbed<br />
|status = working<br />
|author = Josef Průša<br />
|reprap = mendel/darwin/repstraps<br />
|cadModel = [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
|categories = [[Category:Heated Bed]]<br />
|image = PCB_HEATBED.jpg<br />
|url = http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==WARNING==<br />
<span style="color:red;>"'''WARNING!!!'''<br />
Be aware from where you buying the PCB heatbeds!!<br />
There is one critical thing, the heatbed must be etched directly from 35um copper clad! ASK YOUR SELLER!!!<br />
If the board is plated, as it's normally done, no manufacturer can guarantee the final thickness of copper or even how even the copper is around the board.<br />
Which means that the final power wont be evenly distributed around the board or the board wont have high enough output generally. <br />
<br />
'''Main warning sign are plated holes! Plating of holes requires copper plating.'''<br />
<br />
</span><br />
<br />
==About==<br />
<br />
PCB Heatbed MK1 is developed by Josef Průša<br />
<br />
I was working on this idea for nearly six months, inspired by [http://neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 ].<br />
<br />
==Where to get it==<br />
The .brd file is available here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3919]]<br />
<br />
Mechanical drawings for designing mounting plates/etc (if desired) are here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21271]]<br />
<br />
(Please note that I dont get any provision from these :-))<br />
Manufactured PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
=== EU ===<br />
RepRapSource (Germany) http://www.reprapsource.com/en/shop/show/6403<br />
<br />
Cubic Print (Germany) http://www.cubic-print.com/PCB-heated-bed<br />
<br />
LHPPortugal(Portugal) http://www.lhpportugal.com/loja/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=193<br />
<br />
=== USA ===<br />
<br />
[http://www.makergear.com/products/3d-printers MakerGear]<br />
<br />
[http://www.lulzbot.com/en/14-heated-print-bed.html Lulzbot]<br />
<br />
[http://ultimachine.com/content/prusa-pcb-heated-bed Ultimachine]<br />
<br />
[http://www.reprap-usa.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51 RepRap-USA]<br />
<br />
==Printing==<br />
<br />
<br />
Cover the bed with kapton tape. Degrease it and print.<br />
<br />
ABS temp: 110°C<br />
PLA temp: 50-60°C<br />
<br />
MAKE SURE YOUR PSU HAS 10 MORE AMPS SPARE!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
==Mounting==<br />
<br />
<br />
Known working solution, I (prusajr) use is Glass sheet (3mm) with glued on cork standoffs and on top of that is glued the heatbed.<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919911/<br />
http://www.flickr.com/photos/prusajr/5410919707/<br />
<br />
<br />
When mounted only using the four corners, the inherent warp of the pcb can be a problem, hence it is better to use the cork mounting system above (as the piece of cork in the centre helps to keep the pcb flat).<br />
Magnets can be used in replace of the cork, this makes the bed removable. However, I (mooneyj) have only tried this on a darwin type printer (where the build platform only moves in z). During fast printing, the darwin vibrates and it seems the heatbed magnets slide over each other slightly. The acceleration of the y axis on a mendel may cause the magnets to slide also. Perhaps a hybrid of magnet and bolt mounting would work well?.<br />
<br />
<br />
The current standard, however, is to simply place the glass on top of the heatbed, and affix it on the four sides with bulldog clips. The clips will not melt under pressure, and sufficiently hold the glass to the bed. This makes removal more easily for cleaning as well.<br />
<br />
'''Note''': According to the Eagle file posted on Thingiverse, the M3 holes are spaced 209 mm<br />
<br />
Mechanical drawings are here: [[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21271]]<br />
<br />
==Sides==<br />
<br />
PCB Bed has two sides, one with the traces (bottom side) and one with silkscreen (top).<br />
<br />
Printing on top side is safer, works great.<br />
<br />
Printing on bottom is more effective and heats up quicker. (Though the LED, resistor and wire connections are liable to collision with the print head. Also the tracks could be damaged if the print head collides. Make sure your z-bed-springs are not too strong to prevent damage during a collision).<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Connection==<br />
<br />
<br />
===Optional LEDs===<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resistor.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x Surface Mount LEDs<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm Surface Mount Resistor<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Mount the LEDs in different directions (polarity) so that one of the LEDs will light up regardless of the board's polarity. You can use a single LED if you are certain of the polarity.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_HEATBED_DIAGRAM.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Electronics===<br />
''RAMPS''<br />
<br />
See [[RAMPS1.4]], [[RAMPS1.3]], or [[RAMPS1.2]] depending on your version.<br />
<br />
''Sanguinolou''<br />
The MK2 PCB heatbed heats up to 110C when powered through the heated bed connection on Sanguinolou, your power supply should be 300W and ensure your wires from your power supply to the Sanguinololu should be capable of handling the total draw of 20A+. Using a 300W ATX power supply with the 4wire ATX dual 12V connector is working well for me.<br />
<br />
N.B. It is recommended that you use a heatsink on your heated bed mosfet, it will get hot!<br />
<br />
N.B. It is recommended that you measure the resistance of your board. I (evilB) didn't and blew up my Ramps 1.2 MOSFET because of a too high current. My measured resistance was 0.8 Ohm.<br />
<br />
==Testing==<br />
<br />
Its now in working state, Printed load of kits on it, working great.<br />
<br />
<br />
Main Idea is to use resistance of pcb traces as heating element.<br />
<br />
The following video shows a PCB heatbed MK2 being heated to 60 degrees as seen by an infrared camera:<br />
<videoflash>QE90bDUaAno</videoflash><br />
<br />
== FORKS (not done by Prusa)==<br />
<br />
=== MK2 ===<br />
(It's not successor of MK1 even with it's name. It's concurrent design. - Josef Prusa)<br />
<br />
==== About ====<br />
<br />
'''MK2 Heatbed - Minor changes by Tony Lock'''<br />
<br />
I liked Josef's original design but wanted to be able to use through hole components, have the thermistor poke through the middle and for it to look good on the 'back' with the silkscreen that Josef designed on that side as well.<br />
<br />
====Where to get it ====<br />
The MK2 .brd file is available here: [[File:PCB_heatedbed_Mk2.brd]]<br />
<br />
Manufactured MK2 PCBs can be found here:<br />
<br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59 www.gadgets3d.com]<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.me/RepRap-PCB-Heatbed-MK2 www.RepRap.me]<br />
<br />
[http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=heated+bed+reprap&_sacat=See-All-Categories#ptm eBay]<br />
<br />
[http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=126 eMakerShop]<br />
<br />
==== Printing ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
Although you can print directly to the bed covered in polyimide tape, no PCB is perfectly flat. It is recommended that you follow the directions in mounting, below, for better results.<br />
<br />
==== Mounting ====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The MK2 board can be mounted either side up and is designed to be mounted as Josef describes:<br />
<br />
http://josefprusa.cz/pcb-heatbed-final-mounting-and-wiring-solutio<br />
<br />
The holes in the 4 corners to attach the heated bed MK2 to the top print plate are not suitable for M3 bolts though! Use M2.5 instead.<br />
<br />
The glass protects the tracks from a head crash and is easily swapped out.<br />
<br />
The board dimensions are identical to the MK1 design.<br />
<br />
Insulation between the board and the thick plate should improve heat-up times and reduce energy consumption. An example is here:<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_heated_bed#Thermal_Insulation<br />
<br />
''Caution, I have not tried this with the temperatures that the PCB bed can reach!''<br />
<br />
====Sides====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The PCB still has a side with the traces on and a side without but now the silkscreen is on both the top and bottom, this makes it look good even when 'upside down' under a layer of glass. The LED, resistor and power wires can be mounted on either side of the board, with either surface mount or through hole components. If you are using through hole be careful when soldering to not have overhang on the other side of the board that could interfere with the glass and introduce a gap between the glass and the PCB.<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_front_small.jpg]]<br />
<br />
There is a central hole in the board (similar to this one http://wiki.makerbot.com/cchb1).<br />
It is sized so a small thermistor<br />
(for example the EPCOS one: http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=3878697 ) will fit though it allowing contact directly with the glass.<br />
''todo: test efficacy of using heat sink compound to better thermally couple the thermistor to the glass''<br />
<br />
[[File:PCB_Heatbed_MK2_therm_hole.jpg| 200px]]<br />
<br />
====Connection====<br />
Polarity doesn't affect the PCB, however the LEDs have a polarity.<br />
<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
There are pads and un-plated through holes for connecting the power wires. Ensure that the wire you use is thick enough for 10A, and solder it to the pads on the track side of the PCB. It is a good idea to think about strain relief so your moving build platform does not flex the joint, this can lead to failure of the joint over time. I recommend routing the wire from the heated bed to strain relief on the thick sheet before routing it to your controller/power supply. ''todo: get pictures of strain relief''<br />
<br />
[[File:UnplatedHoles.jpg| 300px]]<br />
<br />
=====Optional LEDs=====<br />
'''MK2'''<br />
<br />
The LEDs are optional, but if you choose to use the LEDs you MUST install the resistor. Solder the components to the pads on the track side of the PCB. With the MK2, conventional wired parts can be substituted for the surface mount parts.<br />
<br />
''''Parts''''<br />
<br />
2 x surface mount or conventional through-hole LEDs. Install with opposite polarity so one or the other will light up regardless of the polarity of the power supply to the board.<br />
<br />
1 x 1K ohm surface mount or through-hole resistor</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=StepStick&diff=60298StepStick2012-06-17T15:40:42Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where to buy? */</p>
<hr />
<div>:''Please note: StepStick has 0.2 ohm sense resistors instead of [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s 0.05 ohm. This limits the current to 1A. See Notes on building for more info.''<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = StepStick<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = CIMG6304.jpg<br />
|description = Revision 0.1<br />
|author = Joem<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics development|Electronics development]] [[Category:Electronics development]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
With the recent outage of [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s, I've been wanting to build my own, and break my dependency (no offense, I <3 you Pololu!). And after spending a lot of time designing the [[Sanguinololu|another]] board, I figured I could give this a go.<br />
<br />
This is an Allegro A4983 / A4988 x4 breakout board for [[Sanguinololu]]. It can be snapped apart at the score in case of Allegro failure, and replaced with another or a Pololu. Snap all 4 apart and get a pin-compatible clones for use on boards like [[RAMPS]] or [[Generation_7_Electronics | Gen7]].<br />
<br />
Now this is not for the iron wielding solderer. All parts are SMT, and somewhat small - there are some 0402 sized packages. Not to mention the Allegro's thermal pad - a solder pad on the bottom of the chip - can't be soldered without an iron of magic.<br />
<br />
That being said, I believe this is an easy to solder board using a toaster oven or hotplate reflow method. There is not too many pads facilitating easy solder paste application using a syringe, and the components should be spaced out enough that a steady hand with fine tweezers can place them. If you've built [[Sanguinololu]] with success, perhaps this is the next challenge on your soldering skills adventures. (Take a look at youtube for oven and hotplate reflow methods - not hard at all!)<br />
<br />
But if you're not up to the task, stay tuned and keep an eye on this place for a published list of places where you can get this pre-assembled.<br />
<br />
== Notes on building ==<br />
The Pololu A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1182 is produced on a 2oz copper PCB board. Most PCBs use 1oz copper boards, and Stepstick is designed to use this weight PCB. However, thermal dissipation will be much less than the 2oz copper used on the Pololu carrier. As such, the Stepstick has been designed with a current limit of 1A to suit a 1oz, 2-layer PCB, which should generally be plenty for reprap-type applications. This may be a limiting factor if you plan to use the same electronics for milling, or larger NEMA23 motors, where current draw is likely to be higher. If you are getting the boards produced yourself, you can of course choose how much copper to put in, and hence the thermal characteristics. The Allegro A4988 chip (datasheet available from: http://www.allegromicro.com/Products/Motor-Driver-And-Interface-ICs/Bipolar-Stepper-Motor-Drivers/A4988.aspx ) is capable of 35V and 2A, but this is based on using a 4-layer PCB, so lots of copper to dissipate heat. You can attach heatsinks and have a fan directed at the electronics to improve heat dissipation. The A4988 has a built-in thermal cut-out, so will turn off if it gets too hot.<br><br />
To increase the current output, you will need to change the value of the sense resistors (S1, S2), and the trimpot (T1) and/or it's resistor (R1). See this thread for more details and suggested values: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,128220<br />
<br />
Another consideration is the problem of using x16 microstepping in a low-current application. The Allegro A4988 has a "Low Current Microstepping" mode, enabled by shorting the ROSC pin to ground, R4 in the case of the Stepstick. Nophead discusses the reasons for doing this in this article: http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/stepstuck.html<br />
<br />
Nophead has written a number of other very useful articles about the stepstick, and stepper motors and drivers in general:<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/stepstuck.html<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/motor-maths.html<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/lessons-from-a3977.html<br />
<br />
If you find any other useful discussions related to the Stepstick, please link them in below.<br />
<br />
== BOM ==<br />
This is the Bill of Materials for a standard Stepstick, ie one limited to 1A.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Item <br />
! Package <br />
! Value <br />
! Value <br />
! Tolerance <br />
! Voltage <br />
! Position <br />
! Note<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||0402||0.1uf|| ||10%||16V||C1, C2, C5, C6||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||0402||0.22uf|| ||10%||16V||C4, C7||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||1206||4.7uf|| ||10%||16V||C3||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Motor driver chip||QNF|| || || || ||IC1||Allegro A4988<br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0805||0.2ohm|| 0.25W|| 1%|| ||S1,S2||Change these sense resistors to alter current limit<br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||10k|| ||10%|| ||R4|| <br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||20k|| ||10%|| ||R1|| <br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||100k|| ||10%|| ||R2, R3|| <br />
|-<br />
|Trimpot||3mm||10k|| || || || T1|| Change trimpot to alter current limit in conjunction with S1, S2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Adjusting and testing the current ==<br />
You change the current to the motor by adjusting the trimpot. Set the trimpot to minimum to start with, by turning the trimpot fully anti-clockwise. Turn clockwise until the motors are not skipping steps at your target speed and load.<br />
<br />
To find out the current that is actually being delivered, follow this advice from nophead http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,128220,129335#msg-129335<br />
<br />
<blockquote>There is a test point for VREF on the Pololu but it is missing on the Stepstick. Since it is just the wiper of the pot you can measure it there and it is easier as it is a bigger target. I hold the meter probe on the shaft of a metal screwdriver so I can see the value while I am turning the pot.<br />
<br />
The current will be VREF / (8 * RS).</blockquote><br />
<br />
== Where to buy? ==<br />
* StepStick with A4988 and heatsink [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=58 GADGETS3D]<br />
* StepStick with A4988 and heatsink [http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br />
* ebay.com (tijnekind)[http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stepstick-A4983-stepper-driver-board-RepRap-/300579027699?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_146&hash=item45fbe7faf3]<br />
* [http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=stepstick&_sacat=See-All-Categories Ebay] for all sellers<br />
* UK based seller on [http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=226 eMAKERshop] Boards right now, kits coming soon, contact through eMAKERshop<br />
* Fully assembled and tested boards with heatsink at [http://www.reprap.me RepRap.me] -- NOTE! 1/8 step only. These are NOT true StepSticks, they have been modified to use the less expensive (and less capable) A4984, not the A4988.<br />
* Fully assembled boards at [http://www.avrthing.com AVRThing.com] -- NOTE these have the A4983 and .22 ohm sense resistors<br />
<br />
== Schematic & Board Images ==<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Top.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Bottom.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Schematic.png|600px]]<br />
<br />
Not obvious from this schematics: the trimpot has 10&nbsp;k&Omega;. See [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,95013,95177#msg-95177].<br />
<br />
Herewith StepStick A4988 picture, its manufactured by SMD factory<br />
Unit now, I was tested by using Ramps1.2 + Arduino Atmage1280 + Sprinter Firmware.<br />
And it run very good.<br />
<br />
Follows video shown that above hardware setup and using 80mm/s FeedRate running test cube printing test.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">a3E31A5bu9Q|320|240</videoflash><br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">SjQVLWIA9-A&feature=channel_video_title|320|240</videoflash><br />
<br />
[[Image:CIMG6304.jpg|640px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:CIMG6369.jpg|320px]] <br />
[[Image:CIMG6378.jpg|320px]] <br />
[[Image:Stepstick_single_macro.jpg|320px]]<br />
<br />
== EAGLE files==<br />
https://github.com/mosfet/StepStick</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield&diff=60296Arduino Mega Pololu Shield2012-06-17T15:36:51Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* How to get it */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RAMPS}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = RAMPS1_3.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = RAMPS<br />
|description = A RepRap etch resist printable circuit board that fits on the Arduino MEGA and holds interchangeable stepper driver carriers and the rest of RepRap's electronics.<br />
Arduino MEGA based modular RepRap electronics.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = johnnyr<br />
|reprap = Pololu Electronics<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
'''RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield''', or '''RAMPS''' for short. It is designed to fit the entire electronics needed for a RepRap in one small package for low cost. RAMPS interfaces an [[Arduino Mega]] with the powerful Arduino MEGA platform and has plenty room for expansion. The modular design includes plug in stepper drivers and extruder control electronics on an Arduino MEGA shield for easy service, part replacement, upgrade-ability and expansion. Additionally, a number of Arduino expansion boards can be added to the system as long as the main RAMPS board is kept to the top of the stack.<br />
<br />
<br />
Version 1.4 uses surface mount capacitors and resistors to further cover edge issue cases. As of version 1.3 in order to fit more stuff RAMPS is no longer designed for easy circuit home etching. If you want to etch your own PCB either get version 1.25 or [[Generation_7_Electronics]]. Version 1.25 and earlier are "1.5 layer" designed boards (i.e. it's double sided board, but one of layers can easily be replaced with wire-jumpers) that is printable on your RepRap with the etch resist pen method, or home fabbed with toner transfer.<br />
<br />
This board is mostly based on Adrian's [[Pololu_Electronics]] and work by Tonok. <br />
Copper etch resists methods suggested by Vik. Also inspired by Vik's work with EasyDrivers.<br />
circuit design based mostly on Adrian's [[Pololu_Electronics]]<br />
Joaz at RepRapSource.com supplied initial pin definitions and many design improvements.<br />
Much inspiration, suggestions, and ideas from Prusajr, Kliment, Maxbots, Rick, and many others in the RepRap community.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:ramps.jpg|Mendel printed RAMPS wired to Mendel.<br />
Image:rampsMendel.jpg|Mendel with RAMPS in enclosure mounted.<br />
Image:arduinomegapololushieldboardbothsides.png | screen capture of 2-sided RAMPS layout<br />
Image:RAMPSopen.jpg | commercially fabbed 2-sided RAMPS wired to Mendel<br />
Image:RAMPS1_3.JPG | RAMPS1.3<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
'''Features'''<br />
* It has provisions for the cartesian robot and extruder. <br />
* Expandable to control other accessories.<br />
* 3 mosfets for heater / fan outputs and 3 thermistor circuits.<br />
* Fused at 5A for additional safety and component protection<br />
* Heated bed control with additional 11A fuse<br />
* Fits 5 [[Pololu stepper driver board]]<br />
* Pololu boards are on pin header sockets so they can be replaced easily or removed for use in future designs.<br />
* I2C and SPI pins left available for future expansion.<br />
* All the Mosfets are hooked into PWM pins for versatility.<br />
* Servo style connectors are used to connect to the endstops, motors, and leds. These connectors are gold plated, rated for 3A, very compact, and globally available.<br />
* SD Card add on available -- Available now made by Kliment - [[Sdramps]]<br />
* LEDs indicate when heater outputs on<br />
* Option to connect 2 motors to Z for Prusa Mendel<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">0k_KArg_sgA</videoflash><br />
<br />
= Safety Tip =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=Support=<br />
The primary channel for RAMPS support is the [http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?219 RAMPS Forum]<br />
<div id="mainPage.news" style="border: solid 1px #aaaaaa; padding: 0px;"><br />
<h2 id="mainPage.news.title" style="background:#eeeeee; font-size: 105%; line-height: 120%; font-weight: bold; padding: 0px; margin:0px;padding: 0.4em;"><br />
[[Image:20px-Exquisite-khelpcenter.png|frameless|right]][http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?219 Forum/Mailing List]</h2><br />
<div id="mainPage.news.text" style="padding:0px 10px 10px;"><br />
{{#widget:Feed<br />
|feedurl=http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?219,replies=1,type=rss<br />
|chan=n<br />
|num=5<br />
|desc=0<br />
|date=y<br />
|targ=n<br />
}}<br />
</div><br />
</div><br />
= Safety Tip =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
<br />
=Build and Use=<br />
<br />
See the page that corresponds with the version you are building [[RAMPS1.4]],[[RAMPS1.3]] or [[RAMPS 1.2]] <br />
<br />
=Ingredients=<br />
<br />
==Schematic==<br />
Current schematic shown. For older versions click the image. Click again for full image.<br />
[[Image:arduinomegapololushieldschematic.png|800px|This is the schematic of the shield.]]<br />
<br />
==Source==<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
| Eagle Files<br />
| These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.)<br />
| [[media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
| Eagle Libraries<br />
| The components used in this board are here. see [[Eagle_Library]]<br />
| [[media:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Custom Versions=<br />
<br />
==Grogyans==<br />
Will have locking connectors for the motors.<br />
Uses the MAX6675 thermocouple sensor, which essentially replaces the AD595.<br />
Less vias, which should also increase building time.<br />
Bottom only, to enable the possibility of a RepRap or toner transfer method to fabricate the board.<br />
Moved the power LED to the front for easy identification.<br />
Providing the user has a proto-shield for Mega, there is plenty of pins left for them to play with.<br />
By using another tiered board, will alow the possibility of more extruders and LCD all of which can communicate over the I2C protocol.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Showcase=<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:rampsbottom.jpg|printed on a RepRap Mendel with the etch resist method [[Plotting|Using_cad.py]]<br />
Image:rampslabels.jpg|attempt at printing labels with sharpie<br />
Image:Ramps-2sided.jpg|Two-sided PCB Built v1.0<br />
Image:arduinomegapololushieldback.jpg|messy back of the first prototype of RAMPS -- built on a generic megaproto shield with point to point wiring, rather than a custom RAMPS PCB<br />
Image:rampsStandardPinHeaders.jpg|RAMPS with standard pin headers<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=Change Log=<br />
<br />
*1.4 August 4, 2011<br />
#Changed capacitors and resistors to surface mount components<br />
#Added LEDs to mosfet outputs<br />
#Added bulk capacitors for each stepper driver<br />
#Added pull up resistors to enable to override the Pololu drivers default enabled state<br />
#Added mosfet gate resistors<br />
#Added pull-ups for I2C<br />
#Servo1 connector moved to pin 11 to free 7 for ADK<br />
#Fixed thermals<br />
#Servo 5V supply is only connected to VCC if a jumper is added<br />
#Reset switch changed for small footprint<br />
#Moved Aux conectors around a bit and increased board size ~0.1"<br />
#Added some space around Q3 for a small heatsink<br />
<br />
*1.3 May 13, 2011<br />
#Added 5th stepper driver socket<br />
#Added 3rd thermistor circuit<br />
#Added Heated bed circuit w/ 11A PTC fuse, changed to 4 position pluggable input jack to accommodate additional current<br />
#Increased board size to 4"x2.32"<br />
#Pin order on heater outputs changed<br />
#Increased spacing increased to accommodate different connectors<br />
#Added connectors for optional 2 motors on Z driver<br />
#Added connector for PS control<br />
#Improved expansion connector layout<br />
#Moved LED towards corner and added resistor to LED circuit<br />
#No longer optimised for home etching :(<br />
#License changed to GPL v3 or newer<br />
<br />
* v1.2 January 04, 2011<br />
# Added 0.1" motor connector to RAMPS for each driver (motors no longer have to be connected on top of stepper drivers)<br />
# Added breakouts for serial and I2C<br />
# Changed extra power and pin headers around for easier connection to extra boards.<br />
# Lost most extra analog breakouts<br />
# More silk screen and bottom layer fixing<br />
<br />
* v1.1 September 30, 2010<br />
# Replaced power barrel jack with plug-able screw terminal<br />
# Added jumpers to select micro-stepping on stepper driver boards<br />
# Added debug LED<br />
# Changed mosfet pins to be compatible with FiveD firmware<br />
# Reduced number of 100uF capacitors to 1<br />
# Added 100nF capacitor to 12V input<br />
# Put auxiliary 12VIN and GNDIN pads in a straight line<br />
# Silk screen and bottom layer cleaned up<br />
<br />
* v1.0 Original RAMPS PCB design<br />
<br />
* v0.1? Point to point wired Arduino MEGA Prototype shield<br />
<br />
<br />
=How to get it=<br />
<br />
Bare PCB and components are available from<br />
#[http://ultimachine.com/ramps Ultimachine]<br />
#[http://myworld.ebay.com/tijnekind/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 Brupje] - see items for sale<br />
#[http://reprapsource.com/shop/shop/list/196 ReprapSource]<br />
#[https://shop.grrf.de/index.php?main_page= German RepRap Foundation (GRRF)] - seller of Ramps electronics, plastruder parts, stepper motors, plastics (ABS), mechanics kits.<br />
#[http://xyzprinters.com/23-ramps XYZ-Printers]<br />
#[http://reprapworld.com/?searchresults&cPath=1591_1593 Reprapworld.com]<br />
<br />
Fully assembled board are available from <br />
#[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54 GADGETS3D.com] '''Fully assembled RAMPS 1.4'''<br />
#[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br />
#[http://ultimachine.com/content/ramps-pre-assembled-kit Ultimachine]<br />
#[http://myworld.ebay.com/tijnekind/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 Brupje] - see items for sale<br />
#[http://xyzprinters.com/23-ramps XYZ-Printers]<br />
#[http://www.mixshop.com/ MixShop] '''RAMPS 1.4 Pre-Assembled'''<br />
#[http://www.a2aprinter.com/ A2APrinter] '''RAMPS 1.4 Pre-Assembled'''<br />
#[http://store.bcndynamics.com/ BCNdynamics store]<br />
#[http://www.2printbeta.de/ 2PrintBeta]<br />
#[http://reprapworld.com/?searchresults&cPath=1591_1593 Reprapworld.com]<br />
<br />
=Wish list=<br />
This shield would like to replicate with the following external boards<br />
#Additional Stepper Driver.<br />
#Replace the resettable fuse with a traditional [http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=S5906 15A blade fuse] and [http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=S6040 holder]?<br />
#DC Driver<br />
#Two additional Thermistors (for a second extruder and heated chamber)<br />
#Include a second resistor in parallel to the thermistor to reduce self heating. [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2007/10/measuring-temperature-easy-way.html See here]<br />
#Thermocouple<br />
#SD Card -- Available now made by Kliment - [[Sdramps]]<br />
#Control Panel w/LCD<br />
#Ethernet<br />
#Host USB<br />
<br />
=Trouble Shooting=<br />
*Check List<br />
#RAMPS shield firmly seated on Arduino MEGA<br />
#No stray wires/metal to cause short<br />
#All connections firmly seated, screws tight<br />
#Power connection oriented correctly, connected to RAMPS shield (only USB is connected to MEGA)<br />
#Thermistor connected to T0<br />
#Firmware uploaded<br />
#Stepper driver potentiometers to a sane setting (maybe 25% from CCW to start, adjust to enough power to drive axis + not overheat)<br />
#Heater wires properly connected<br />
<br />
*Cannot connect?<br />
** Verify firmware and host software baud rate matches<br />
** Disconnect USB, reconnect, and retry<br />
** It may be a problem with the software you're using (repsnapper). Try using [http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ pronterface].<br />
<br />
*Stepper motor getting too hot?<br />
** Adjust the potentiometer (small screw) on the stepper driver in question by rotating the screw counterclockwise to decrease the current going to the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
*My fan is not working.<br />
** If you have RAMPs 1.3+ and sprinter firmware (set with the default pins for RAMPs 1.3), try attaching the fan to D9 output.<br />
** In pronterface, the fan can be turned on by using the M106 command and turned off with M107.<br />
<br />
==Stepper Driver Testing==<br />
If you are not sure whether you have a problem with your RAMPS or the stepper drivers you can test that the driver is getting the power and signals it needs to work.<br />
<br />
*Stepper motors getting too hot?<br />
** Adjust the potentiometer (small screw) on the stepper driver by rotating the screw counterclockwise to decrease the current going to the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
Use a meter of some sort to test the signals at one of the motor drivers. Be careful not to short anything out. You can use a (-) pad in AUX-1 for ground and test the voltage on VMOT, VDD, EN, STEP, and DIR. If all of these are working correctly then the stepper driver is likely bad.<br />
<pre><br />
High(5V) when disabled, Low when enabled EN-| |-VMOT 12V (or voltage at 5A side of input power connector<br />
Set by Jumper MS1-| |-GND 0V <br />
Set by Jumper MS2-| |-1A ---------------| <Motor Coil A <br />
Set by Jumper MS3-| |-2A ---------------|____<br />
Not used (tied to SLP) RST-| |-1B -----------------/ | <Motor Coil B<br />
Not used (tied to RST) SLP-| |-2B -------------------/<br />
Pulse High for each step STEP-| |-VDD 5V<br />
Switches between High and Low when driven direction changes DIR-| |-GND 0V<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
<br />
==Q&A==<br />
*What power supply you recommend for your ramps board. I have just finished assembly and looking at the diagrams for a pc power supply and wondering about the separate amperages for the extruder and heated bed. Can they be higher amps without damage?<br />
<br />
Yes, the power supply being capable of more amps than required is the desired configuration. The current shown are the max supported by RAMPS and is the minimum the power supply should be capable of. It is also OK to have both of the inputs on RAMPS connected to one PSU with enough capacity. If you are not using a heated bed the entire thing can run off the 5A side (D8 will just not work).<br />
<br />
*I got a RAMPS V1.3 as part of a kit, but it doesn't have any installation instructions - just a schematic. Can you point us to a good tutorial for connecting everything? (i.e. stepper motors, opto flag pcb's, power, data, etc) Some of it (like the single USB port) is obvious, but some of it isn't.<br />
<br />
See [[RAMPS1.3]] for instructions for version 1.3. There is a version navigation bar at the top of the RAMPS pages that allow you to jump to a specific versions instructions. There is a very helpful graphic under Final Check section.<br />
<br />
*For RAMPS V1.3 the power section of the schematic shows several places with GND/12V (C4/C6, X4-2/1, X4-4/3, VCC/D12). Which one is the GND/12V from the power supply? Is it the round power plug like a laptop power plug? Also, is the outside of that plug GND while the inside is +12V? My kit came with a note warning not to reverse the input power or it would cook the board . . . and a plug adapter with no labels that can be installed either way.<br />
<br />
See the connecting power section of your version's page. The round plug is on the Arduino MEGA and will only power the MEGA. You need to power the green pluggable connector, it should not be reversible and the board should be marked (+) and (-). If for some reason your board is not marked you can follow the diagrams and pictures in the wiki.<br />
<br />
[[Category:RAMPS| ]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Sdramps&diff=60294Sdramps2012-06-17T15:35:28Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where to get it? */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = SD RAMPS<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = sdramps.jpeg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Run your RAMPS from SD Card!<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Kliment, Brupje<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
Ever wanted to run your RepRap from SD card? Here is your chance! This RAMPS add-on enables you to print from MicroSD.With RAMPS 1.3 and higher it's easily connected to the RAMPS board. You will require special firmware though. <br />
<br />
*Kingston brand SD cards do not work as they do not support SPI. <br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
Depending on the vendor you can buy SD Ramps as bare PCB, DIY-kit or preassembled.<br />
<br />
List of suppliers:<br/><br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br/><br />
[http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=55&cPath=1591_1593 ReprapWorld.Com]<br/><br />
[http://ultimachine.com/content/kliments-sd-ramps Ultimachine]<br/><br />
[http://ozbot.info OzBot.info] Australia<br/><br />
[http://www.lulzbot.com/en/80-sd-ramps-assembled.html LulzBot] US<br/><br />
[https://shop.grrf.de/sd-ramps-v10-p-374.html German RepRap Foundation] Germany<br/><br />
[http://www.mixshop.com/ MixShop.com] Canada<br/><br />
<br />
=Building your own=<br />
<br />
==Bill of materials==<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
!ID<br />
!Name<br />
!Type<br />
|-<br />
|PCB<br />
|SD RAMPS PCB<br />
|PCB<br />
|-<br />
|C1<br />
|2.2uF Tantalum 1206<br />
|Capacitor<br />
|-<br />
|IC1<br />
|74HC4050<br />
|Level inverter<br />
|-<br />
|IC2<br />
|MIC5209-3.3YS<br />
|Voltage regulator<br />
|-<br />
|LED1<br />
|LED1206 red<br />
|LED<br />
|-<br />
|R1<br />
|1kOhm 1206<br />
|Resistor<br />
|-<br />
|SV1/SV2 <br />
|6x2 stackable header<br />
|Header<br />
|-<br />
|U$1<br />
|MicroSD socket<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Component soldering==<br />
<br />
The following steps will show you how to solder the board. These components are Surface mounted, so this can be a bit tricky. You will need a soldering iron with a small tip. Other than that, it is doable if you have a bit of experience.<br />
<br />
{|<br />
|Step 1<br/>Examine the PCB. Try to figure out what goes where.<br />
|[[File:SD1.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 2<br/>Place the 74HC4050 on the PCB. Some chips do not have clearly marked how they should be put on the board, just place them with text on the chip aligned to the north side of the PCB. Solder one pin (if you are right handed, working from left to right is a good order) and align the other pins to the pad. Solder a second one, check the alignment and then the other pins.<br />
|[[File:SD2.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 3<br/>Next is the MIC5209-3.3YS. Place it on the pads and solder the pins. Can't go wrong here.<br />
|[[File:SD3.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 4<br/>Turn the pcb and put the capacitor on the pads,'''mind the white band!''' I like to put solder on one pad first, put the capacitor on and melt the solder again. Then solder the other pad.<br />
|[[File:SD4.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 5<br/>The SD socket is probably the hardest part. Your socket should have eight or nine pins. Place the most left pin on the most left pad. If you have eight pins, a pad on the right remains unused.<br />
|[[File:SD5.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 6<br/>Next put the resistor and LED onto the board. The resistor can be put on either way, the LED can only be placed with the +-polarity on the left.<br />
|[[File:SD6.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 7<br/>Finally put on the headers and you are good to go!<br />
|[[File:SD7.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Testing your board==<br />
<br />
For testing your board, I have written a small test program. It will continuously try to detect your SDCard. If it succeeds, it will print information about the card. Your should make sure your SDCard is formatted correctly.<br />
<br />
You can download it here: [[File:sdrampstest.zip]]<br />
<br />
Upload the software onto your Arduino MEGA.<br />
<br />
Put your SD RAMPS board onto an Arduino MEGA like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:sd8.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
The RED LED should light up, indicating the board is powered.<br />
<br />
Open the Serial Monitor in you Arduino environment. If the SDCard is readable, it should read something like:<br />
<br />
Wiring is correct and a card is present.<br />
<br />
<br />
Card type: SDHC<br />
<br />
<br />
Volume type is FAT16<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Volume size (bytes): 822231040<br />
<br />
Volume size (Kbytes): 802960<br />
<br />
Volume size (Mbytes): 784<br />
<br />
<br />
Files found on the card (name, date and size in bytes): <br />
<br />
TEST.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:40 0<br />
<br />
TST2.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:46 0<br />
<br />
TST3.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:54 0<br />
<br />
==Troubleshooting==<br />
<br />
1. The LED does not light up<br />
Make sure the LED is mounted the right way. If the 74HC4050 is getting hot, you might have a short.<br />
<br />
2. The test program says: initialization failed. Things to check: ...<br />
Follow the advise of the program and check every step above. Check if your SD Card works.<br />
<br />
=Using the SD RAMPS=<br />
<br />
==RAMPS 1.3 with Sprinter firmware==<br />
<br />
These steps will guide you on how to use the SD RAMPS with RAMPS 1.3 and the Sprinter firmware.<br />
<br />
Note that you MUST install Diode D1 on the RAMPS board if you want to be able to print without being connected to your PC - see: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS1.4#D2.2C_D2_-_Diodes<br />
<br />
1. Connect your SD RAMPS like this to the RAMPS board:<br />
<br />
[[File:connectsdramp1.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:connectsdramp2.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
The four most right pins are not used.<br />
<br />
NOTE: On RAMPS 1.4, the corresponding pin pads have been moved a bit closer to the corner of the board, so it looks a little bit different, because the SDRAMPS daughter-board hangs over the corner of the RAMPS 1.4 board a little bit:<br />
<br />
[[File:001.JPG]]<br />
<br />
2. Download the latest Sprinter firmware from [https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter Sprinter]<br />
<br />
Extract the firmware and open it in your Arduino IDE.<br />
<br />
3. Go to the file configuration.h and change the motherboard setting:<br />
<br />
#define MOTHERBOARD 33<br />
<br />
4. Check that SD Card support is enabled:<br />
<br />
#define SDSUPPORT 1<br />
<br />
5. Compile and upload the firmware.<br />
<br />
6. Open the Serial Monitor from the Arduino IDE. Make sure the left select list reads newline. Enter the GCode M21 (init SD Card). It should return ok.<br />
<br />
[[File:screenshotsdramp1.png]]<br />
<br />
7. Enter the GCode M20 (list files). It should return the contents of the SD card.<br />
<br />
[[File:screenshotsdramp2.png]]<br />
<br />
==Ramps 1.2==</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Sdramps&diff=60293Sdramps2012-06-17T15:35:11Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where to get it? */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = SD RAMPS<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = sdramps.jpeg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Run your RAMPS from SD Card!<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Kliment, Brupje<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
Ever wanted to run your RepRap from SD card? Here is your chance! This RAMPS add-on enables you to print from MicroSD.With RAMPS 1.3 and higher it's easily connected to the RAMPS board. You will require special firmware though. <br />
<br />
*Kingston brand SD cards do not work as they do not support SPI. <br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
Depending on the vendor you can buy SD Ramps as bare PCB, DIY-kit or preassembled.<br />
<br />
List of suppliers:<br/><br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://www.ebay.com/sch/fabster3d/m.html Fabster3D Ebay]<br />
[http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=55&cPath=1591_1593 ReprapWorld.Com]<br/><br />
[http://ultimachine.com/content/kliments-sd-ramps Ultimachine]<br/><br />
[http://ozbot.info OzBot.info] Australia<br/><br />
[http://www.lulzbot.com/en/80-sd-ramps-assembled.html LulzBot] US<br/><br />
[https://shop.grrf.de/sd-ramps-v10-p-374.html German RepRap Foundation] Germany<br/><br />
[http://www.mixshop.com/ MixShop.com] Canada<br/><br />
<br />
=Building your own=<br />
<br />
==Bill of materials==<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
!ID<br />
!Name<br />
!Type<br />
|-<br />
|PCB<br />
|SD RAMPS PCB<br />
|PCB<br />
|-<br />
|C1<br />
|2.2uF Tantalum 1206<br />
|Capacitor<br />
|-<br />
|IC1<br />
|74HC4050<br />
|Level inverter<br />
|-<br />
|IC2<br />
|MIC5209-3.3YS<br />
|Voltage regulator<br />
|-<br />
|LED1<br />
|LED1206 red<br />
|LED<br />
|-<br />
|R1<br />
|1kOhm 1206<br />
|Resistor<br />
|-<br />
|SV1/SV2 <br />
|6x2 stackable header<br />
|Header<br />
|-<br />
|U$1<br />
|MicroSD socket<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Component soldering==<br />
<br />
The following steps will show you how to solder the board. These components are Surface mounted, so this can be a bit tricky. You will need a soldering iron with a small tip. Other than that, it is doable if you have a bit of experience.<br />
<br />
{|<br />
|Step 1<br/>Examine the PCB. Try to figure out what goes where.<br />
|[[File:SD1.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 2<br/>Place the 74HC4050 on the PCB. Some chips do not have clearly marked how they should be put on the board, just place them with text on the chip aligned to the north side of the PCB. Solder one pin (if you are right handed, working from left to right is a good order) and align the other pins to the pad. Solder a second one, check the alignment and then the other pins.<br />
|[[File:SD2.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 3<br/>Next is the MIC5209-3.3YS. Place it on the pads and solder the pins. Can't go wrong here.<br />
|[[File:SD3.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 4<br/>Turn the pcb and put the capacitor on the pads,'''mind the white band!''' I like to put solder on one pad first, put the capacitor on and melt the solder again. Then solder the other pad.<br />
|[[File:SD4.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 5<br/>The SD socket is probably the hardest part. Your socket should have eight or nine pins. Place the most left pin on the most left pad. If you have eight pins, a pad on the right remains unused.<br />
|[[File:SD5.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 6<br/>Next put the resistor and LED onto the board. The resistor can be put on either way, the LED can only be placed with the +-polarity on the left.<br />
|[[File:SD6.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 7<br/>Finally put on the headers and you are good to go!<br />
|[[File:SD7.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Testing your board==<br />
<br />
For testing your board, I have written a small test program. It will continuously try to detect your SDCard. If it succeeds, it will print information about the card. Your should make sure your SDCard is formatted correctly.<br />
<br />
You can download it here: [[File:sdrampstest.zip]]<br />
<br />
Upload the software onto your Arduino MEGA.<br />
<br />
Put your SD RAMPS board onto an Arduino MEGA like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:sd8.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
The RED LED should light up, indicating the board is powered.<br />
<br />
Open the Serial Monitor in you Arduino environment. If the SDCard is readable, it should read something like:<br />
<br />
Wiring is correct and a card is present.<br />
<br />
<br />
Card type: SDHC<br />
<br />
<br />
Volume type is FAT16<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Volume size (bytes): 822231040<br />
<br />
Volume size (Kbytes): 802960<br />
<br />
Volume size (Mbytes): 784<br />
<br />
<br />
Files found on the card (name, date and size in bytes): <br />
<br />
TEST.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:40 0<br />
<br />
TST2.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:46 0<br />
<br />
TST3.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:54 0<br />
<br />
==Troubleshooting==<br />
<br />
1. The LED does not light up<br />
Make sure the LED is mounted the right way. If the 74HC4050 is getting hot, you might have a short.<br />
<br />
2. The test program says: initialization failed. Things to check: ...<br />
Follow the advise of the program and check every step above. Check if your SD Card works.<br />
<br />
=Using the SD RAMPS=<br />
<br />
==RAMPS 1.3 with Sprinter firmware==<br />
<br />
These steps will guide you on how to use the SD RAMPS with RAMPS 1.3 and the Sprinter firmware.<br />
<br />
Note that you MUST install Diode D1 on the RAMPS board if you want to be able to print without being connected to your PC - see: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS1.4#D2.2C_D2_-_Diodes<br />
<br />
1. Connect your SD RAMPS like this to the RAMPS board:<br />
<br />
[[File:connectsdramp1.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:connectsdramp2.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
The four most right pins are not used.<br />
<br />
NOTE: On RAMPS 1.4, the corresponding pin pads have been moved a bit closer to the corner of the board, so it looks a little bit different, because the SDRAMPS daughter-board hangs over the corner of the RAMPS 1.4 board a little bit:<br />
<br />
[[File:001.JPG]]<br />
<br />
2. Download the latest Sprinter firmware from [https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter Sprinter]<br />
<br />
Extract the firmware and open it in your Arduino IDE.<br />
<br />
3. Go to the file configuration.h and change the motherboard setting:<br />
<br />
#define MOTHERBOARD 33<br />
<br />
4. Check that SD Card support is enabled:<br />
<br />
#define SDSUPPORT 1<br />
<br />
5. Compile and upload the firmware.<br />
<br />
6. Open the Serial Monitor from the Arduino IDE. Make sure the left select list reads newline. Enter the GCode M21 (init SD Card). It should return ok.<br />
<br />
[[File:screenshotsdramp1.png]]<br />
<br />
7. Enter the GCode M20 (list files). It should return the contents of the SD card.<br />
<br />
[[File:screenshotsdramp2.png]]<br />
<br />
==Ramps 1.2==</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield&diff=60290Arduino Mega Pololu Shield2012-06-17T15:30:14Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* How to get it */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RAMPS}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = RAMPS1_3.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = RAMPS<br />
|description = A RepRap etch resist printable circuit board that fits on the Arduino MEGA and holds interchangeable stepper driver carriers and the rest of RepRap's electronics.<br />
Arduino MEGA based modular RepRap electronics.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = johnnyr<br />
|reprap = Pololu Electronics<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
'''RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield''', or '''RAMPS''' for short. It is designed to fit the entire electronics needed for a RepRap in one small package for low cost. RAMPS interfaces an [[Arduino Mega]] with the powerful Arduino MEGA platform and has plenty room for expansion. The modular design includes plug in stepper drivers and extruder control electronics on an Arduino MEGA shield for easy service, part replacement, upgrade-ability and expansion. Additionally, a number of Arduino expansion boards can be added to the system as long as the main RAMPS board is kept to the top of the stack.<br />
<br />
<br />
Version 1.4 uses surface mount capacitors and resistors to further cover edge issue cases. As of version 1.3 in order to fit more stuff RAMPS is no longer designed for easy circuit home etching. If you want to etch your own PCB either get version 1.25 or [[Generation_7_Electronics]]. Version 1.25 and earlier are "1.5 layer" designed boards (i.e. it's double sided board, but one of layers can easily be replaced with wire-jumpers) that is printable on your RepRap with the etch resist pen method, or home fabbed with toner transfer.<br />
<br />
This board is mostly based on Adrian's [[Pololu_Electronics]] and work by Tonok. <br />
Copper etch resists methods suggested by Vik. Also inspired by Vik's work with EasyDrivers.<br />
circuit design based mostly on Adrian's [[Pololu_Electronics]]<br />
Joaz at RepRapSource.com supplied initial pin definitions and many design improvements.<br />
Much inspiration, suggestions, and ideas from Prusajr, Kliment, Maxbots, Rick, and many others in the RepRap community.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:ramps.jpg|Mendel printed RAMPS wired to Mendel.<br />
Image:rampsMendel.jpg|Mendel with RAMPS in enclosure mounted.<br />
Image:arduinomegapololushieldboardbothsides.png | screen capture of 2-sided RAMPS layout<br />
Image:RAMPSopen.jpg | commercially fabbed 2-sided RAMPS wired to Mendel<br />
Image:RAMPS1_3.JPG | RAMPS1.3<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
'''Features'''<br />
* It has provisions for the cartesian robot and extruder. <br />
* Expandable to control other accessories.<br />
* 3 mosfets for heater / fan outputs and 3 thermistor circuits.<br />
* Fused at 5A for additional safety and component protection<br />
* Heated bed control with additional 11A fuse<br />
* Fits 5 [[Pololu stepper driver board]]<br />
* Pololu boards are on pin header sockets so they can be replaced easily or removed for use in future designs.<br />
* I2C and SPI pins left available for future expansion.<br />
* All the Mosfets are hooked into PWM pins for versatility.<br />
* Servo style connectors are used to connect to the endstops, motors, and leds. These connectors are gold plated, rated for 3A, very compact, and globally available.<br />
* SD Card add on available -- Available now made by Kliment - [[Sdramps]]<br />
* LEDs indicate when heater outputs on<br />
* Option to connect 2 motors to Z for Prusa Mendel<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">0k_KArg_sgA</videoflash><br />
<br />
= Safety Tip =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=Support=<br />
The primary channel for RAMPS support is the [http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?219 RAMPS Forum]<br />
<div id="mainPage.news" style="border: solid 1px #aaaaaa; padding: 0px;"><br />
<h2 id="mainPage.news.title" style="background:#eeeeee; font-size: 105%; line-height: 120%; font-weight: bold; padding: 0px; margin:0px;padding: 0.4em;"><br />
[[Image:20px-Exquisite-khelpcenter.png|frameless|right]][http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?219 Forum/Mailing List]</h2><br />
<div id="mainPage.news.text" style="padding:0px 10px 10px;"><br />
{{#widget:Feed<br />
|feedurl=http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?219,replies=1,type=rss<br />
|chan=n<br />
|num=5<br />
|desc=0<br />
|date=y<br />
|targ=n<br />
}}<br />
</div><br />
</div><br />
= Safety Tip =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
<br />
=Build and Use=<br />
<br />
See the page that corresponds with the version you are building [[RAMPS1.4]],[[RAMPS1.3]] or [[RAMPS 1.2]] <br />
<br />
=Ingredients=<br />
<br />
==Schematic==<br />
Current schematic shown. For older versions click the image. Click again for full image.<br />
[[Image:arduinomegapololushieldschematic.png|800px|This is the schematic of the shield.]]<br />
<br />
==Source==<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
| Eagle Files<br />
| These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.)<br />
| [[media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
| Eagle Libraries<br />
| The components used in this board are here. see [[Eagle_Library]]<br />
| [[media:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Custom Versions=<br />
<br />
==Grogyans==<br />
Will have locking connectors for the motors.<br />
Uses the MAX6675 thermocouple sensor, which essentially replaces the AD595.<br />
Less vias, which should also increase building time.<br />
Bottom only, to enable the possibility of a RepRap or toner transfer method to fabricate the board.<br />
Moved the power LED to the front for easy identification.<br />
Providing the user has a proto-shield for Mega, there is plenty of pins left for them to play with.<br />
By using another tiered board, will alow the possibility of more extruders and LCD all of which can communicate over the I2C protocol.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Showcase=<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:rampsbottom.jpg|printed on a RepRap Mendel with the etch resist method [[Plotting|Using_cad.py]]<br />
Image:rampslabels.jpg|attempt at printing labels with sharpie<br />
Image:Ramps-2sided.jpg|Two-sided PCB Built v1.0<br />
Image:arduinomegapololushieldback.jpg|messy back of the first prototype of RAMPS -- built on a generic megaproto shield with point to point wiring, rather than a custom RAMPS PCB<br />
Image:rampsStandardPinHeaders.jpg|RAMPS with standard pin headers<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=Change Log=<br />
<br />
*1.4 August 4, 2011<br />
#Changed capacitors and resistors to surface mount components<br />
#Added LEDs to mosfet outputs<br />
#Added bulk capacitors for each stepper driver<br />
#Added pull up resistors to enable to override the Pololu drivers default enabled state<br />
#Added mosfet gate resistors<br />
#Added pull-ups for I2C<br />
#Servo1 connector moved to pin 11 to free 7 for ADK<br />
#Fixed thermals<br />
#Servo 5V supply is only connected to VCC if a jumper is added<br />
#Reset switch changed for small footprint<br />
#Moved Aux conectors around a bit and increased board size ~0.1"<br />
#Added some space around Q3 for a small heatsink<br />
<br />
*1.3 May 13, 2011<br />
#Added 5th stepper driver socket<br />
#Added 3rd thermistor circuit<br />
#Added Heated bed circuit w/ 11A PTC fuse, changed to 4 position pluggable input jack to accommodate additional current<br />
#Increased board size to 4"x2.32"<br />
#Pin order on heater outputs changed<br />
#Increased spacing increased to accommodate different connectors<br />
#Added connectors for optional 2 motors on Z driver<br />
#Added connector for PS control<br />
#Improved expansion connector layout<br />
#Moved LED towards corner and added resistor to LED circuit<br />
#No longer optimised for home etching :(<br />
#License changed to GPL v3 or newer<br />
<br />
* v1.2 January 04, 2011<br />
# Added 0.1" motor connector to RAMPS for each driver (motors no longer have to be connected on top of stepper drivers)<br />
# Added breakouts for serial and I2C<br />
# Changed extra power and pin headers around for easier connection to extra boards.<br />
# Lost most extra analog breakouts<br />
# More silk screen and bottom layer fixing<br />
<br />
* v1.1 September 30, 2010<br />
# Replaced power barrel jack with plug-able screw terminal<br />
# Added jumpers to select micro-stepping on stepper driver boards<br />
# Added debug LED<br />
# Changed mosfet pins to be compatible with FiveD firmware<br />
# Reduced number of 100uF capacitors to 1<br />
# Added 100nF capacitor to 12V input<br />
# Put auxiliary 12VIN and GNDIN pads in a straight line<br />
# Silk screen and bottom layer cleaned up<br />
<br />
* v1.0 Original RAMPS PCB design<br />
<br />
* v0.1? Point to point wired Arduino MEGA Prototype shield<br />
<br />
<br />
=How to get it=<br />
<br />
Bare PCB and components are available from<br />
#[http://ultimachine.com/ramps Ultimachine]<br />
#[http://myworld.ebay.com/tijnekind/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 Brupje] - see items for sale<br />
#[http://reprapsource.com/shop/shop/list/196 ReprapSource]<br />
#[https://shop.grrf.de/index.php?main_page= German RepRap Foundation (GRRF)] - seller of Ramps electronics, plastruder parts, stepper motors, plastics (ABS), mechanics kits.<br />
#[http://xyzprinters.com/23-ramps XYZ-Printers]<br />
#[http://reprapworld.com/?searchresults&cPath=1591_1593 Reprapworld.com]<br />
<br />
Fully assembled board are available from <br />
#[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54 GADGETS3D.com] '''Fully assembled RAMPS 1.4'''<br />
#[http://ultimachine.com/content/ramps-pre-assembled-kit Ultimachine]<br />
#[http://myworld.ebay.com/tijnekind/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 Brupje] - see items for sale<br />
#[http://xyzprinters.com/23-ramps XYZ-Printers]<br />
#[http://www.mixshop.com/ MixShop] '''RAMPS 1.4 Pre-Assembled'''<br />
#[http://www.a2aprinter.com/ A2APrinter] '''RAMPS 1.4 Pre-Assembled'''<br />
#[http://store.bcndynamics.com/ BCNdynamics store]<br />
#[http://www.2printbeta.de/ 2PrintBeta]<br />
#[http://reprapworld.com/?searchresults&cPath=1591_1593 Reprapworld.com]<br />
<br />
=Wish list=<br />
This shield would like to replicate with the following external boards<br />
#Additional Stepper Driver.<br />
#Replace the resettable fuse with a traditional [http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=S5906 15A blade fuse] and [http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=S6040 holder]?<br />
#DC Driver<br />
#Two additional Thermistors (for a second extruder and heated chamber)<br />
#Include a second resistor in parallel to the thermistor to reduce self heating. [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2007/10/measuring-temperature-easy-way.html See here]<br />
#Thermocouple<br />
#SD Card -- Available now made by Kliment - [[Sdramps]]<br />
#Control Panel w/LCD<br />
#Ethernet<br />
#Host USB<br />
<br />
=Trouble Shooting=<br />
*Check List<br />
#RAMPS shield firmly seated on Arduino MEGA<br />
#No stray wires/metal to cause short<br />
#All connections firmly seated, screws tight<br />
#Power connection oriented correctly, connected to RAMPS shield (only USB is connected to MEGA)<br />
#Thermistor connected to T0<br />
#Firmware uploaded<br />
#Stepper driver potentiometers to a sane setting (maybe 25% from CCW to start, adjust to enough power to drive axis + not overheat)<br />
#Heater wires properly connected<br />
<br />
*Cannot connect?<br />
** Verify firmware and host software baud rate matches<br />
** Disconnect USB, reconnect, and retry<br />
** It may be a problem with the software you're using (repsnapper). Try using [http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ pronterface].<br />
<br />
*Stepper motor getting too hot?<br />
** Adjust the potentiometer (small screw) on the stepper driver in question by rotating the screw counterclockwise to decrease the current going to the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
*My fan is not working.<br />
** If you have RAMPs 1.3+ and sprinter firmware (set with the default pins for RAMPs 1.3), try attaching the fan to D9 output.<br />
** In pronterface, the fan can be turned on by using the M106 command and turned off with M107.<br />
<br />
==Stepper Driver Testing==<br />
If you are not sure whether you have a problem with your RAMPS or the stepper drivers you can test that the driver is getting the power and signals it needs to work.<br />
<br />
*Stepper motors getting too hot?<br />
** Adjust the potentiometer (small screw) on the stepper driver by rotating the screw counterclockwise to decrease the current going to the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
Use a meter of some sort to test the signals at one of the motor drivers. Be careful not to short anything out. You can use a (-) pad in AUX-1 for ground and test the voltage on VMOT, VDD, EN, STEP, and DIR. If all of these are working correctly then the stepper driver is likely bad.<br />
<pre><br />
High(5V) when disabled, Low when enabled EN-| |-VMOT 12V (or voltage at 5A side of input power connector<br />
Set by Jumper MS1-| |-GND 0V <br />
Set by Jumper MS2-| |-1A ---------------| <Motor Coil A <br />
Set by Jumper MS3-| |-2A ---------------|____<br />
Not used (tied to SLP) RST-| |-1B -----------------/ | <Motor Coil B<br />
Not used (tied to RST) SLP-| |-2B -------------------/<br />
Pulse High for each step STEP-| |-VDD 5V<br />
Switches between High and Low when driven direction changes DIR-| |-GND 0V<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
<br />
==Q&A==<br />
*What power supply you recommend for your ramps board. I have just finished assembly and looking at the diagrams for a pc power supply and wondering about the separate amperages for the extruder and heated bed. Can they be higher amps without damage?<br />
<br />
Yes, the power supply being capable of more amps than required is the desired configuration. The current shown are the max supported by RAMPS and is the minimum the power supply should be capable of. It is also OK to have both of the inputs on RAMPS connected to one PSU with enough capacity. If you are not using a heated bed the entire thing can run off the 5A side (D8 will just not work).<br />
<br />
*I got a RAMPS V1.3 as part of a kit, but it doesn't have any installation instructions - just a schematic. Can you point us to a good tutorial for connecting everything? (i.e. stepper motors, opto flag pcb's, power, data, etc) Some of it (like the single USB port) is obvious, but some of it isn't.<br />
<br />
See [[RAMPS1.3]] for instructions for version 1.3. There is a version navigation bar at the top of the RAMPS pages that allow you to jump to a specific versions instructions. There is a very helpful graphic under Final Check section.<br />
<br />
*For RAMPS V1.3 the power section of the schematic shows several places with GND/12V (C4/C6, X4-2/1, X4-4/3, VCC/D12). Which one is the GND/12V from the power supply? Is it the round power plug like a laptop power plug? Also, is the outside of that plug GND while the inside is +12V? My kit came with a note warning not to reverse the input power or it would cook the board . . . and a plug adapter with no labels that can be installed either way.<br />
<br />
See the connecting power section of your version's page. The round plug is on the Arduino MEGA and will only power the MEGA. You need to power the green pluggable connector, it should not be reversible and the board should be marked (+) and (-). If for some reason your board is not marked you can follow the diagrams and pictures in the wiki.<br />
<br />
[[Category:RAMPS| ]]</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Sdramps&diff=60288Sdramps2012-06-17T15:24:40Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where to get it? */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = SD RAMPS<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = sdramps.jpeg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Run your RAMPS from SD Card!<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Kliment, Brupje<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
Ever wanted to run your RepRap from SD card? Here is your chance! This RAMPS add-on enables you to print from MicroSD.With RAMPS 1.3 and higher it's easily connected to the RAMPS board. You will require special firmware though. <br />
<br />
*Kingston brand SD cards do not work as they do not support SPI. <br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
Depending on the vendor you can buy SD Ramps as bare PCB, DIY-kit or preassembled.<br />
<br />
List of suppliers:<br/><br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57 GADGETS3D.com]<br/><br />
[http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=55&cPath=1591_1593 ReprapWorld.Com]<br/><br />
[http://ultimachine.com/content/kliments-sd-ramps Ultimachine]<br/><br />
[http://ozbot.info OzBot.info] Australia<br/><br />
[http://www.lulzbot.com/en/80-sd-ramps-assembled.html LulzBot] US<br/><br />
[https://shop.grrf.de/sd-ramps-v10-p-374.html German RepRap Foundation] Germany<br/><br />
[http://www.mixshop.com/ MixShop.com] Canada<br/><br />
<br />
=Building your own=<br />
<br />
==Bill of materials==<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
!ID<br />
!Name<br />
!Type<br />
|-<br />
|PCB<br />
|SD RAMPS PCB<br />
|PCB<br />
|-<br />
|C1<br />
|2.2uF Tantalum 1206<br />
|Capacitor<br />
|-<br />
|IC1<br />
|74HC4050<br />
|Level inverter<br />
|-<br />
|IC2<br />
|MIC5209-3.3YS<br />
|Voltage regulator<br />
|-<br />
|LED1<br />
|LED1206 red<br />
|LED<br />
|-<br />
|R1<br />
|1kOhm 1206<br />
|Resistor<br />
|-<br />
|SV1/SV2 <br />
|6x2 stackable header<br />
|Header<br />
|-<br />
|U$1<br />
|MicroSD socket<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Component soldering==<br />
<br />
The following steps will show you how to solder the board. These components are Surface mounted, so this can be a bit tricky. You will need a soldering iron with a small tip. Other than that, it is doable if you have a bit of experience.<br />
<br />
{|<br />
|Step 1<br/>Examine the PCB. Try to figure out what goes where.<br />
|[[File:SD1.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 2<br/>Place the 74HC4050 on the PCB. Some chips do not have clearly marked how they should be put on the board, just place them with text on the chip aligned to the north side of the PCB. Solder one pin (if you are right handed, working from left to right is a good order) and align the other pins to the pad. Solder a second one, check the alignment and then the other pins.<br />
|[[File:SD2.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 3<br/>Next is the MIC5209-3.3YS. Place it on the pads and solder the pins. Can't go wrong here.<br />
|[[File:SD3.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 4<br/>Turn the pcb and put the capacitor on the pads,'''mind the white band!''' I like to put solder on one pad first, put the capacitor on and melt the solder again. Then solder the other pad.<br />
|[[File:SD4.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 5<br/>The SD socket is probably the hardest part. Your socket should have eight or nine pins. Place the most left pin on the most left pad. If you have eight pins, a pad on the right remains unused.<br />
|[[File:SD5.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 6<br/>Next put the resistor and LED onto the board. The resistor can be put on either way, the LED can only be placed with the +-polarity on the left.<br />
|[[File:SD6.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 7<br/>Finally put on the headers and you are good to go!<br />
|[[File:SD7.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Testing your board==<br />
<br />
For testing your board, I have written a small test program. It will continuously try to detect your SDCard. If it succeeds, it will print information about the card. Your should make sure your SDCard is formatted correctly.<br />
<br />
You can download it here: [[File:sdrampstest.zip]]<br />
<br />
Upload the software onto your Arduino MEGA.<br />
<br />
Put your SD RAMPS board onto an Arduino MEGA like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:sd8.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
The RED LED should light up, indicating the board is powered.<br />
<br />
Open the Serial Monitor in you Arduino environment. If the SDCard is readable, it should read something like:<br />
<br />
Wiring is correct and a card is present.<br />
<br />
<br />
Card type: SDHC<br />
<br />
<br />
Volume type is FAT16<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Volume size (bytes): 822231040<br />
<br />
Volume size (Kbytes): 802960<br />
<br />
Volume size (Mbytes): 784<br />
<br />
<br />
Files found on the card (name, date and size in bytes): <br />
<br />
TEST.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:40 0<br />
<br />
TST2.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:46 0<br />
<br />
TST3.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:54 0<br />
<br />
==Troubleshooting==<br />
<br />
1. The LED does not light up<br />
Make sure the LED is mounted the right way. If the 74HC4050 is getting hot, you might have a short.<br />
<br />
2. The test program says: initialization failed. Things to check: ...<br />
Follow the advise of the program and check every step above. Check if your SD Card works.<br />
<br />
=Using the SD RAMPS=<br />
<br />
==RAMPS 1.3 with Sprinter firmware==<br />
<br />
These steps will guide you on how to use the SD RAMPS with RAMPS 1.3 and the Sprinter firmware.<br />
<br />
Note that you MUST install Diode D1 on the RAMPS board if you want to be able to print without being connected to your PC - see: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS1.4#D2.2C_D2_-_Diodes<br />
<br />
1. Connect your SD RAMPS like this to the RAMPS board:<br />
<br />
[[File:connectsdramp1.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:connectsdramp2.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
The four most right pins are not used.<br />
<br />
NOTE: On RAMPS 1.4, the corresponding pin pads have been moved a bit closer to the corner of the board, so it looks a little bit different, because the SDRAMPS daughter-board hangs over the corner of the RAMPS 1.4 board a little bit:<br />
<br />
[[File:001.JPG]]<br />
<br />
2. Download the latest Sprinter firmware from [https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter Sprinter]<br />
<br />
Extract the firmware and open it in your Arduino IDE.<br />
<br />
3. Go to the file configuration.h and change the motherboard setting:<br />
<br />
#define MOTHERBOARD 33<br />
<br />
4. Check that SD Card support is enabled:<br />
<br />
#define SDSUPPORT 1<br />
<br />
5. Compile and upload the firmware.<br />
<br />
6. Open the Serial Monitor from the Arduino IDE. Make sure the left select list reads newline. Enter the GCode M21 (init SD Card). It should return ok.<br />
<br />
[[File:screenshotsdramp1.png]]<br />
<br />
7. Enter the GCode M20 (list files). It should return the contents of the SD card.<br />
<br />
[[File:screenshotsdramp2.png]]<br />
<br />
==Ramps 1.2==</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Sdramps&diff=60287Sdramps2012-06-17T15:24:18Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where to get it? */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
<!--Header--><br />
|name = SD RAMPS<br />
|status = working<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = sdramps.jpeg<br />
<!--General--><br />
|description = Run your RAMPS from SD Card!<br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = Kliment, Brupje<br />
|categories = Electronics<br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
Ever wanted to run your RepRap from SD card? Here is your chance! This RAMPS add-on enables you to print from MicroSD.With RAMPS 1.3 and higher it's easily connected to the RAMPS board. You will require special firmware though. <br />
<br />
*Kingston brand SD cards do not work as they do not support SPI. <br />
<br />
=Where to get it?=<br />
<br />
Depending on the vendor you can buy SD Ramps as bare PCB, DIY-kit or preassembled.<br />
<br />
List of suppliers:<br/><br />
[http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57 GADGETS3D.com]<br />
[http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=55&cPath=1591_1593 ReprapWorld.Com]<br/><br />
[http://ultimachine.com/content/kliments-sd-ramps Ultimachine]<br/><br />
[http://ozbot.info OzBot.info] Australia<br/><br />
[http://www.lulzbot.com/en/80-sd-ramps-assembled.html LulzBot] US<br/><br />
[https://shop.grrf.de/sd-ramps-v10-p-374.html German RepRap Foundation] Germany<br/><br />
[http://www.mixshop.com/ MixShop.com] Canada<br/><br />
<br />
=Building your own=<br />
<br />
==Bill of materials==<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
!ID<br />
!Name<br />
!Type<br />
|-<br />
|PCB<br />
|SD RAMPS PCB<br />
|PCB<br />
|-<br />
|C1<br />
|2.2uF Tantalum 1206<br />
|Capacitor<br />
|-<br />
|IC1<br />
|74HC4050<br />
|Level inverter<br />
|-<br />
|IC2<br />
|MIC5209-3.3YS<br />
|Voltage regulator<br />
|-<br />
|LED1<br />
|LED1206 red<br />
|LED<br />
|-<br />
|R1<br />
|1kOhm 1206<br />
|Resistor<br />
|-<br />
|SV1/SV2 <br />
|6x2 stackable header<br />
|Header<br />
|-<br />
|U$1<br />
|MicroSD socket<br />
|<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Component soldering==<br />
<br />
The following steps will show you how to solder the board. These components are Surface mounted, so this can be a bit tricky. You will need a soldering iron with a small tip. Other than that, it is doable if you have a bit of experience.<br />
<br />
{|<br />
|Step 1<br/>Examine the PCB. Try to figure out what goes where.<br />
|[[File:SD1.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 2<br/>Place the 74HC4050 on the PCB. Some chips do not have clearly marked how they should be put on the board, just place them with text on the chip aligned to the north side of the PCB. Solder one pin (if you are right handed, working from left to right is a good order) and align the other pins to the pad. Solder a second one, check the alignment and then the other pins.<br />
|[[File:SD2.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 3<br/>Next is the MIC5209-3.3YS. Place it on the pads and solder the pins. Can't go wrong here.<br />
|[[File:SD3.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 4<br/>Turn the pcb and put the capacitor on the pads,'''mind the white band!''' I like to put solder on one pad first, put the capacitor on and melt the solder again. Then solder the other pad.<br />
|[[File:SD4.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 5<br/>The SD socket is probably the hardest part. Your socket should have eight or nine pins. Place the most left pin on the most left pad. If you have eight pins, a pad on the right remains unused.<br />
|[[File:SD5.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 6<br/>Next put the resistor and LED onto the board. The resistor can be put on either way, the LED can only be placed with the +-polarity on the left.<br />
|[[File:SD6.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|-<br />
|Step 7<br/>Finally put on the headers and you are good to go!<br />
|[[File:SD7.jpg|right|thumb]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Testing your board==<br />
<br />
For testing your board, I have written a small test program. It will continuously try to detect your SDCard. If it succeeds, it will print information about the card. Your should make sure your SDCard is formatted correctly.<br />
<br />
You can download it here: [[File:sdrampstest.zip]]<br />
<br />
Upload the software onto your Arduino MEGA.<br />
<br />
Put your SD RAMPS board onto an Arduino MEGA like this:<br />
<br />
[[File:sd8.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
The RED LED should light up, indicating the board is powered.<br />
<br />
Open the Serial Monitor in you Arduino environment. If the SDCard is readable, it should read something like:<br />
<br />
Wiring is correct and a card is present.<br />
<br />
<br />
Card type: SDHC<br />
<br />
<br />
Volume type is FAT16<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Volume size (bytes): 822231040<br />
<br />
Volume size (Kbytes): 802960<br />
<br />
Volume size (Mbytes): 784<br />
<br />
<br />
Files found on the card (name, date and size in bytes): <br />
<br />
TEST.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:40 0<br />
<br />
TST2.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:46 0<br />
<br />
TST3.TXT 2011-08-10 14:14:54 0<br />
<br />
==Troubleshooting==<br />
<br />
1. The LED does not light up<br />
Make sure the LED is mounted the right way. If the 74HC4050 is getting hot, you might have a short.<br />
<br />
2. The test program says: initialization failed. Things to check: ...<br />
Follow the advise of the program and check every step above. Check if your SD Card works.<br />
<br />
=Using the SD RAMPS=<br />
<br />
==RAMPS 1.3 with Sprinter firmware==<br />
<br />
These steps will guide you on how to use the SD RAMPS with RAMPS 1.3 and the Sprinter firmware.<br />
<br />
Note that you MUST install Diode D1 on the RAMPS board if you want to be able to print without being connected to your PC - see: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS1.4#D2.2C_D2_-_Diodes<br />
<br />
1. Connect your SD RAMPS like this to the RAMPS board:<br />
<br />
[[File:connectsdramp1.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:connectsdramp2.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
The four most right pins are not used.<br />
<br />
NOTE: On RAMPS 1.4, the corresponding pin pads have been moved a bit closer to the corner of the board, so it looks a little bit different, because the SDRAMPS daughter-board hangs over the corner of the RAMPS 1.4 board a little bit:<br />
<br />
[[File:001.JPG]]<br />
<br />
2. Download the latest Sprinter firmware from [https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter Sprinter]<br />
<br />
Extract the firmware and open it in your Arduino IDE.<br />
<br />
3. Go to the file configuration.h and change the motherboard setting:<br />
<br />
#define MOTHERBOARD 33<br />
<br />
4. Check that SD Card support is enabled:<br />
<br />
#define SDSUPPORT 1<br />
<br />
5. Compile and upload the firmware.<br />
<br />
6. Open the Serial Monitor from the Arduino IDE. Make sure the left select list reads newline. Enter the GCode M21 (init SD Card). It should return ok.<br />
<br />
[[File:screenshotsdramp1.png]]<br />
<br />
7. Enter the GCode M20 (list files). It should return the contents of the SD card.<br />
<br />
[[File:screenshotsdramp2.png]]<br />
<br />
==Ramps 1.2==</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=StepStick&diff=60283StepStick2012-06-17T15:17:11Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where to buy? */</p>
<hr />
<div>:''Please note: StepStick has 0.2 ohm sense resistors instead of [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s 0.05 ohm. This limits the current to 1A. See Notes on building for more info.''<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = StepStick<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = CIMG6304.jpg<br />
|description = Revision 0.1<br />
|author = Joem<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics development|Electronics development]] [[Category:Electronics development]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
With the recent outage of [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s, I've been wanting to build my own, and break my dependency (no offense, I <3 you Pololu!). And after spending a lot of time designing the [[Sanguinololu|another]] board, I figured I could give this a go.<br />
<br />
This is an Allegro A4983 / A4988 x4 breakout board for [[Sanguinololu]]. It can be snapped apart at the score in case of Allegro failure, and replaced with another or a Pololu. Snap all 4 apart and get a pin-compatible clones for use on boards like [[RAMPS]] or [[Generation_7_Electronics | Gen7]].<br />
<br />
Now this is not for the iron wielding solderer. All parts are SMT, and somewhat small - there are some 0402 sized packages. Not to mention the Allegro's thermal pad - a solder pad on the bottom of the chip - can't be soldered without an iron of magic.<br />
<br />
That being said, I believe this is an easy to solder board using a toaster oven or hotplate reflow method. There is not too many pads facilitating easy solder paste application using a syringe, and the components should be spaced out enough that a steady hand with fine tweezers can place them. If you've built [[Sanguinololu]] with success, perhaps this is the next challenge on your soldering skills adventures. (Take a look at youtube for oven and hotplate reflow methods - not hard at all!)<br />
<br />
But if you're not up to the task, stay tuned and keep an eye on this place for a published list of places where you can get this pre-assembled.<br />
<br />
== Notes on building ==<br />
The Pololu A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1182 is produced on a 2oz copper PCB board. Most PCBs use 1oz copper boards, and Stepstick is designed to use this weight PCB. However, thermal dissipation will be much less than the 2oz copper used on the Pololu carrier. As such, the Stepstick has been designed with a current limit of 1A to suit a 1oz, 2-layer PCB, which should generally be plenty for reprap-type applications. This may be a limiting factor if you plan to use the same electronics for milling, or larger NEMA23 motors, where current draw is likely to be higher. If you are getting the boards produced yourself, you can of course choose how much copper to put in, and hence the thermal characteristics. The Allegro A4988 chip (datasheet available from: http://www.allegromicro.com/Products/Motor-Driver-And-Interface-ICs/Bipolar-Stepper-Motor-Drivers/A4988.aspx ) is capable of 35V and 2A, but this is based on using a 4-layer PCB, so lots of copper to dissipate heat. You can attach heatsinks and have a fan directed at the electronics to improve heat dissipation. The A4988 has a built-in thermal cut-out, so will turn off if it gets too hot.<br><br />
To increase the current output, you will need to change the value of the sense resistors (S1, S2), and the trimpot (T1) and/or it's resistor (R1). See this thread for more details and suggested values: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,128220<br />
<br />
Another consideration is the problem of using x16 microstepping in a low-current application. The Allegro A4988 has a "Low Current Microstepping" mode, enabled by shorting the ROSC pin to ground, R4 in the case of the Stepstick. Nophead discusses the reasons for doing this in this article: http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/stepstuck.html<br />
<br />
Nophead has written a number of other very useful articles about the stepstick, and stepper motors and drivers in general:<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/stepstuck.html<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/motor-maths.html<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/lessons-from-a3977.html<br />
<br />
If you find any other useful discussions related to the Stepstick, please link them in below.<br />
<br />
== BOM ==<br />
This is the Bill of Materials for a standard Stepstick, ie one limited to 1A.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Item <br />
! Package <br />
! Value <br />
! Value <br />
! Tolerance <br />
! Voltage <br />
! Position <br />
! Note<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||0402||0.1uf|| ||10%||16V||C1, C2, C5, C6||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||0402||0.22uf|| ||10%||16V||C4, C7||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||1206||4.7uf|| ||10%||16V||C3||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Motor driver chip||QNF|| || || || ||IC1||Allegro A4988<br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0805||0.2ohm|| 0.25W|| 1%|| ||S1,S2||Change these sense resistors to alter current limit<br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||10k|| ||10%|| ||R4|| <br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||20k|| ||10%|| ||R1|| <br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||100k|| ||10%|| ||R2, R3|| <br />
|-<br />
|Trimpot||3mm||10k|| || || || T1|| Change trimpot to alter current limit in conjunction with S1, S2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Adjusting and testing the current ==<br />
You change the current to the motor by adjusting the trimpot. Set the trimpot to minimum to start with, by turning the trimpot fully anti-clockwise. Turn clockwise until the motors are not skipping steps at your target speed and load.<br />
<br />
To find out the current that is actually being delivered, follow this advice from nophead http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,128220,129335#msg-129335<br />
<br />
<blockquote>There is a test point for VREF on the Pololu but it is missing on the Stepstick. Since it is just the wiper of the pot you can measure it there and it is easier as it is a bigger target. I hold the meter probe on the shaft of a metal screwdriver so I can see the value while I am turning the pot.<br />
<br />
The current will be VREF / (8 * RS).</blockquote><br />
<br />
== Where to buy? ==<br />
* StepStick with A4988 and heatsink [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=58 GADGETS3D]<br />
* ebay.com (tijnekind)[http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stepstick-A4983-stepper-driver-board-RepRap-/300579027699?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_146&hash=item45fbe7faf3]<br />
* [http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=stepstick&_sacat=See-All-Categories Ebay] for all sellers<br />
* UK based seller on [http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=226 eMAKERshop] Boards right now, kits coming soon, contact through eMAKERshop<br />
* Fully assembled and tested boards with heatsink at [http://www.reprap.me RepRap.me] -- NOTE! 1/8 step only. These are NOT true StepSticks, they have been modified to use the less expensive (and less capable) A4984, not the A4988.<br />
* Fully assembled boards at [http://www.avrthing.com AVRThing.com] -- NOTE these have the A4983 and .22 ohm sense resistors<br />
<br />
== Schematic & Board Images ==<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Top.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Bottom.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Schematic.png|600px]]<br />
<br />
Not obvious from this schematics: the trimpot has 10&nbsp;k&Omega;. See [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,95013,95177#msg-95177].<br />
<br />
Herewith StepStick A4988 picture, its manufactured by SMD factory<br />
Unit now, I was tested by using Ramps1.2 + Arduino Atmage1280 + Sprinter Firmware.<br />
And it run very good.<br />
<br />
Follows video shown that above hardware setup and using 80mm/s FeedRate running test cube printing test.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">a3E31A5bu9Q|320|240</videoflash><br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">SjQVLWIA9-A&feature=channel_video_title|320|240</videoflash><br />
<br />
[[Image:CIMG6304.jpg|640px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:CIMG6369.jpg|320px]] <br />
[[Image:CIMG6378.jpg|320px]] <br />
[[Image:Stepstick_single_macro.jpg|320px]]<br />
<br />
== EAGLE files==<br />
https://github.com/mosfet/StepStick</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=StepStick&diff=60282StepStick2012-06-17T15:16:35Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where to buy? */</p>
<hr />
<div>:''Please note: StepStick has 0.2 ohm sense resistors instead of [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s 0.05 ohm. This limits the current to 1A. See Notes on building for more info.''<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = StepStick<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = CIMG6304.jpg<br />
|description = Revision 0.1<br />
|author = Joem<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics development|Electronics development]] [[Category:Electronics development]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
With the recent outage of [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s, I've been wanting to build my own, and break my dependency (no offense, I <3 you Pololu!). And after spending a lot of time designing the [[Sanguinololu|another]] board, I figured I could give this a go.<br />
<br />
This is an Allegro A4983 / A4988 x4 breakout board for [[Sanguinololu]]. It can be snapped apart at the score in case of Allegro failure, and replaced with another or a Pololu. Snap all 4 apart and get a pin-compatible clones for use on boards like [[RAMPS]] or [[Generation_7_Electronics | Gen7]].<br />
<br />
Now this is not for the iron wielding solderer. All parts are SMT, and somewhat small - there are some 0402 sized packages. Not to mention the Allegro's thermal pad - a solder pad on the bottom of the chip - can't be soldered without an iron of magic.<br />
<br />
That being said, I believe this is an easy to solder board using a toaster oven or hotplate reflow method. There is not too many pads facilitating easy solder paste application using a syringe, and the components should be spaced out enough that a steady hand with fine tweezers can place them. If you've built [[Sanguinololu]] with success, perhaps this is the next challenge on your soldering skills adventures. (Take a look at youtube for oven and hotplate reflow methods - not hard at all!)<br />
<br />
But if you're not up to the task, stay tuned and keep an eye on this place for a published list of places where you can get this pre-assembled.<br />
<br />
== Notes on building ==<br />
The Pololu A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1182 is produced on a 2oz copper PCB board. Most PCBs use 1oz copper boards, and Stepstick is designed to use this weight PCB. However, thermal dissipation will be much less than the 2oz copper used on the Pololu carrier. As such, the Stepstick has been designed with a current limit of 1A to suit a 1oz, 2-layer PCB, which should generally be plenty for reprap-type applications. This may be a limiting factor if you plan to use the same electronics for milling, or larger NEMA23 motors, where current draw is likely to be higher. If you are getting the boards produced yourself, you can of course choose how much copper to put in, and hence the thermal characteristics. The Allegro A4988 chip (datasheet available from: http://www.allegromicro.com/Products/Motor-Driver-And-Interface-ICs/Bipolar-Stepper-Motor-Drivers/A4988.aspx ) is capable of 35V and 2A, but this is based on using a 4-layer PCB, so lots of copper to dissipate heat. You can attach heatsinks and have a fan directed at the electronics to improve heat dissipation. The A4988 has a built-in thermal cut-out, so will turn off if it gets too hot.<br><br />
To increase the current output, you will need to change the value of the sense resistors (S1, S2), and the trimpot (T1) and/or it's resistor (R1). See this thread for more details and suggested values: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,128220<br />
<br />
Another consideration is the problem of using x16 microstepping in a low-current application. The Allegro A4988 has a "Low Current Microstepping" mode, enabled by shorting the ROSC pin to ground, R4 in the case of the Stepstick. Nophead discusses the reasons for doing this in this article: http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/stepstuck.html<br />
<br />
Nophead has written a number of other very useful articles about the stepstick, and stepper motors and drivers in general:<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/stepstuck.html<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/motor-maths.html<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/lessons-from-a3977.html<br />
<br />
If you find any other useful discussions related to the Stepstick, please link them in below.<br />
<br />
== BOM ==<br />
This is the Bill of Materials for a standard Stepstick, ie one limited to 1A.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Item <br />
! Package <br />
! Value <br />
! Value <br />
! Tolerance <br />
! Voltage <br />
! Position <br />
! Note<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||0402||0.1uf|| ||10%||16V||C1, C2, C5, C6||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||0402||0.22uf|| ||10%||16V||C4, C7||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||1206||4.7uf|| ||10%||16V||C3||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Motor driver chip||QNF|| || || || ||IC1||Allegro A4988<br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0805||0.2ohm|| 0.25W|| 1%|| ||S1,S2||Change these sense resistors to alter current limit<br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||10k|| ||10%|| ||R4|| <br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||20k|| ||10%|| ||R1|| <br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||100k|| ||10%|| ||R2, R3|| <br />
|-<br />
|Trimpot||3mm||10k|| || || || T1|| Change trimpot to alter current limit in conjunction with S1, S2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Adjusting and testing the current ==<br />
You change the current to the motor by adjusting the trimpot. Set the trimpot to minimum to start with, by turning the trimpot fully anti-clockwise. Turn clockwise until the motors are not skipping steps at your target speed and load.<br />
<br />
To find out the current that is actually being delivered, follow this advice from nophead http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,128220,129335#msg-129335<br />
<br />
<blockquote>There is a test point for VREF on the Pololu but it is missing on the Stepstick. Since it is just the wiper of the pot you can measure it there and it is easier as it is a bigger target. I hold the meter probe on the shaft of a metal screwdriver so I can see the value while I am turning the pot.<br />
<br />
The current will be VREF / (8 * RS).</blockquote><br />
<br />
== Where to buy? ==<br />
* StepStikc with A4988 and heatsink [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=58 GADGETS3D]<br />
* ebay.com (tijnekind)[http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stepstick-A4983-stepper-driver-board-RepRap-/300579027699?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_146&hash=item45fbe7faf3]<br />
* [http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=stepstick&_sacat=See-All-Categories Ebay] for all sellers<br />
* UK based seller on [http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=226 eMAKERshop] Boards right now, kits coming soon, contact through eMAKERshop<br />
* Fully assembled and tested boards with heatsink at [http://www.reprap.me RepRap.me] -- NOTE! 1/8 step only. These are NOT true StepSticks, they have been modified to use the less expensive (and less capable) A4984, not the A4988.<br />
* Fully assembled boards at [http://www.avrthing.com AVRThing.com] -- NOTE these have the A4983 and .22 ohm sense resistors<br />
<br />
== Schematic & Board Images ==<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Top.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Bottom.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Schematic.png|600px]]<br />
<br />
Not obvious from this schematics: the trimpot has 10&nbsp;k&Omega;. See [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,95013,95177#msg-95177].<br />
<br />
Herewith StepStick A4988 picture, its manufactured by SMD factory<br />
Unit now, I was tested by using Ramps1.2 + Arduino Atmage1280 + Sprinter Firmware.<br />
And it run very good.<br />
<br />
Follows video shown that above hardware setup and using 80mm/s FeedRate running test cube printing test.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">a3E31A5bu9Q|320|240</videoflash><br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">SjQVLWIA9-A&feature=channel_video_title|320|240</videoflash><br />
<br />
[[Image:CIMG6304.jpg|640px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:CIMG6369.jpg|320px]] <br />
[[Image:CIMG6378.jpg|320px]] <br />
[[Image:Stepstick_single_macro.jpg|320px]]<br />
<br />
== EAGLE files==<br />
https://github.com/mosfet/StepStick</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=StepStick&diff=60280StepStick2012-06-17T15:15:12Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* Where to buy? */</p>
<hr />
<div>:''Please note: StepStick has 0.2 ohm sense resistors instead of [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s 0.05 ohm. This limits the current to 1A. See Notes on building for more info.''<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = StepStick<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = CIMG6304.jpg<br />
|description = Revision 0.1<br />
|author = Joem<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics development|Electronics development]] [[Category:Electronics development]]<br />
|cadModel = Eagle<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
With the recent outage of [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s, I've been wanting to build my own, and break my dependency (no offense, I <3 you Pololu!). And after spending a lot of time designing the [[Sanguinololu|another]] board, I figured I could give this a go.<br />
<br />
This is an Allegro A4983 / A4988 x4 breakout board for [[Sanguinololu]]. It can be snapped apart at the score in case of Allegro failure, and replaced with another or a Pololu. Snap all 4 apart and get a pin-compatible clones for use on boards like [[RAMPS]] or [[Generation_7_Electronics | Gen7]].<br />
<br />
Now this is not for the iron wielding solderer. All parts are SMT, and somewhat small - there are some 0402 sized packages. Not to mention the Allegro's thermal pad - a solder pad on the bottom of the chip - can't be soldered without an iron of magic.<br />
<br />
That being said, I believe this is an easy to solder board using a toaster oven or hotplate reflow method. There is not too many pads facilitating easy solder paste application using a syringe, and the components should be spaced out enough that a steady hand with fine tweezers can place them. If you've built [[Sanguinololu]] with success, perhaps this is the next challenge on your soldering skills adventures. (Take a look at youtube for oven and hotplate reflow methods - not hard at all!)<br />
<br />
But if you're not up to the task, stay tuned and keep an eye on this place for a published list of places where you can get this pre-assembled.<br />
<br />
== Notes on building ==<br />
The Pololu A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1182 is produced on a 2oz copper PCB board. Most PCBs use 1oz copper boards, and Stepstick is designed to use this weight PCB. However, thermal dissipation will be much less than the 2oz copper used on the Pololu carrier. As such, the Stepstick has been designed with a current limit of 1A to suit a 1oz, 2-layer PCB, which should generally be plenty for reprap-type applications. This may be a limiting factor if you plan to use the same electronics for milling, or larger NEMA23 motors, where current draw is likely to be higher. If you are getting the boards produced yourself, you can of course choose how much copper to put in, and hence the thermal characteristics. The Allegro A4988 chip (datasheet available from: http://www.allegromicro.com/Products/Motor-Driver-And-Interface-ICs/Bipolar-Stepper-Motor-Drivers/A4988.aspx ) is capable of 35V and 2A, but this is based on using a 4-layer PCB, so lots of copper to dissipate heat. You can attach heatsinks and have a fan directed at the electronics to improve heat dissipation. The A4988 has a built-in thermal cut-out, so will turn off if it gets too hot.<br><br />
To increase the current output, you will need to change the value of the sense resistors (S1, S2), and the trimpot (T1) and/or it's resistor (R1). See this thread for more details and suggested values: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,128220<br />
<br />
Another consideration is the problem of using x16 microstepping in a low-current application. The Allegro A4988 has a "Low Current Microstepping" mode, enabled by shorting the ROSC pin to ground, R4 in the case of the Stepstick. Nophead discusses the reasons for doing this in this article: http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/stepstuck.html<br />
<br />
Nophead has written a number of other very useful articles about the stepstick, and stepper motors and drivers in general:<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/stepstuck.html<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/motor-maths.html<br><br />
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/lessons-from-a3977.html<br />
<br />
If you find any other useful discussions related to the Stepstick, please link them in below.<br />
<br />
== BOM ==<br />
This is the Bill of Materials for a standard Stepstick, ie one limited to 1A.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Item <br />
! Package <br />
! Value <br />
! Value <br />
! Tolerance <br />
! Voltage <br />
! Position <br />
! Note<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||0402||0.1uf|| ||10%||16V||C1, C2, C5, C6||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||0402||0.22uf|| ||10%||16V||C4, C7||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Capacitor||1206||4.7uf|| ||10%||16V||C3||16V capacitor for 12V maximum voltage; use higher voltage capacitors for higher voltage applications, max 35V<br />
|-<br />
|Motor driver chip||QNF|| || || || ||IC1||Allegro A4988<br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0805||0.2ohm|| 0.25W|| 1%|| ||S1,S2||Change these sense resistors to alter current limit<br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||10k|| ||10%|| ||R4|| <br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||20k|| ||10%|| ||R1|| <br />
|-<br />
|Resistor||0402||100k|| ||10%|| ||R2, R3|| <br />
|-<br />
|Trimpot||3mm||10k|| || || || T1|| Change trimpot to alter current limit in conjunction with S1, S2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Adjusting and testing the current ==<br />
You change the current to the motor by adjusting the trimpot. Set the trimpot to minimum to start with, by turning the trimpot fully anti-clockwise. Turn clockwise until the motors are not skipping steps at your target speed and load.<br />
<br />
To find out the current that is actually being delivered, follow this advice from nophead http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,128220,129335#msg-129335<br />
<br />
<blockquote>There is a test point for VREF on the Pololu but it is missing on the Stepstick. Since it is just the wiper of the pot you can measure it there and it is easier as it is a bigger target. I hold the meter probe on the shaft of a metal screwdriver so I can see the value while I am turning the pot.<br />
<br />
The current will be VREF / (8 * RS).</blockquote><br />
<br />
== Where to buy? ==<br />
* GADGETS3D [http://gadgets3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=58 GADGETS3D]<br />
* ebay.com (tijnekind)[http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stepstick-A4983-stepper-driver-board-RepRap-/300579027699?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_146&hash=item45fbe7faf3]<br />
* [http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=stepstick&_sacat=See-All-Categories Ebay] for all sellers<br />
* UK based seller on [http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=226 eMAKERshop] Boards right now, kits coming soon, contact through eMAKERshop<br />
* Fully assembled and tested boards with heatsink at [http://www.reprap.me RepRap.me] -- NOTE! 1/8 step only. These are NOT true StepSticks, they have been modified to use the less expensive (and less capable) A4984, not the A4988.<br />
* Fully assembled boards at [http://www.avrthing.com AVRThing.com] -- NOTE these have the A4983 and .22 ohm sense resistors<br />
<br />
== Schematic & Board Images ==<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Top.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Bottom.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:StepStick.Schematic.png|600px]]<br />
<br />
Not obvious from this schematics: the trimpot has 10&nbsp;k&Omega;. See [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,95013,95177#msg-95177].<br />
<br />
Herewith StepStick A4988 picture, its manufactured by SMD factory<br />
Unit now, I was tested by using Ramps1.2 + Arduino Atmage1280 + Sprinter Firmware.<br />
And it run very good.<br />
<br />
Follows video shown that above hardware setup and using 80mm/s FeedRate running test cube printing test.<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">a3E31A5bu9Q|320|240</videoflash><br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">SjQVLWIA9-A&feature=channel_video_title|320|240</videoflash><br />
<br />
[[Image:CIMG6304.jpg|640px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:CIMG6369.jpg|320px]] <br />
[[Image:CIMG6378.jpg|320px]] <br />
[[Image:Stepstick_single_macro.jpg|320px]]<br />
<br />
== EAGLE files==<br />
https://github.com/mosfet/StepStick</div>Gadgets3dhttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield&diff=60278Arduino Mega Pololu Shield2012-06-17T15:11:46Z<p>Gadgets3d: /* How to get it */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RAMPS}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = RAMPS1_3.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = RAMPS<br />
|description = A RepRap etch resist printable circuit board that fits on the Arduino MEGA and holds interchangeable stepper driver carriers and the rest of RepRap's electronics.<br />
Arduino MEGA based modular RepRap electronics.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = johnnyr<br />
|reprap = Pololu Electronics<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Electronics|Electronics]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
'''RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield''', or '''RAMPS''' for short. It is designed to fit the entire electronics needed for a RepRap in one small package for low cost. RAMPS interfaces an [[Arduino Mega]] with the powerful Arduino MEGA platform and has plenty room for expansion. The modular design includes plug in stepper drivers and extruder control electronics on an Arduino MEGA shield for easy service, part replacement, upgrade-ability and expansion. Additionally, a number of Arduino expansion boards can be added to the system as long as the main RAMPS board is kept to the top of the stack.<br />
<br />
<br />
Version 1.4 uses surface mount capacitors and resistors to further cover edge issue cases. As of version 1.3 in order to fit more stuff RAMPS is no longer designed for easy circuit home etching. If you want to etch your own PCB either get version 1.25 or [[Generation_7_Electronics]]. Version 1.25 and earlier are "1.5 layer" designed boards (i.e. it's double sided board, but one of layers can easily be replaced with wire-jumpers) that is printable on your RepRap with the etch resist pen method, or home fabbed with toner transfer.<br />
<br />
This board is mostly based on Adrian's [[Pololu_Electronics]] and work by Tonok. <br />
Copper etch resists methods suggested by Vik. Also inspired by Vik's work with EasyDrivers.<br />
circuit design based mostly on Adrian's [[Pololu_Electronics]]<br />
Joaz at RepRapSource.com supplied initial pin definitions and many design improvements.<br />
Much inspiration, suggestions, and ideas from Prusajr, Kliment, Maxbots, Rick, and many others in the RepRap community.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:ramps.jpg|Mendel printed RAMPS wired to Mendel.<br />
Image:rampsMendel.jpg|Mendel with RAMPS in enclosure mounted.<br />
Image:arduinomegapololushieldboardbothsides.png | screen capture of 2-sided RAMPS layout<br />
Image:RAMPSopen.jpg | commercially fabbed 2-sided RAMPS wired to Mendel<br />
Image:RAMPS1_3.JPG | RAMPS1.3<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
'''Features'''<br />
* It has provisions for the cartesian robot and extruder. <br />
* Expandable to control other accessories.<br />
* 3 mosfets for heater / fan outputs and 3 thermistor circuits.<br />
* Fused at 5A for additional safety and component protection<br />
* Heated bed control with additional 11A fuse<br />
* Fits 5 [[Pololu stepper driver board]]<br />
* Pololu boards are on pin header sockets so they can be replaced easily or removed for use in future designs.<br />
* I2C and SPI pins left available for future expansion.<br />
* All the Mosfets are hooked into PWM pins for versatility.<br />
* Servo style connectors are used to connect to the endstops, motors, and leds. These connectors are gold plated, rated for 3A, very compact, and globally available.<br />
* SD Card add on available -- Available now made by Kliment - [[Sdramps]]<br />
* LEDs indicate when heater outputs on<br />
* Option to connect 2 motors to Z for Prusa Mendel<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="youtube">0k_KArg_sgA</videoflash><br />
<br />
= Safety Tip =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=Support=<br />
The primary channel for RAMPS support is the [http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?219 RAMPS Forum]<br />
<div id="mainPage.news" style="border: solid 1px #aaaaaa; padding: 0px;"><br />
<h2 id="mainPage.news.title" style="background:#eeeeee; font-size: 105%; line-height: 120%; font-weight: bold; padding: 0px; margin:0px;padding: 0.4em;"><br />
[[Image:20px-Exquisite-khelpcenter.png|frameless|right]][http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?219 Forum/Mailing List]</h2><br />
<div id="mainPage.news.text" style="padding:0px 10px 10px;"><br />
{{#widget:Feed<br />
|feedurl=http://forums.reprap.org/feed.php?219,replies=1,type=rss<br />
|chan=n<br />
|num=5<br />
|desc=0<br />
|date=y<br />
|targ=n<br />
}}<br />
</div><br />
</div><br />
= Safety Tip =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
<br />
=Build and Use=<br />
<br />
See the page that corresponds with the version you are building [[RAMPS1.4]],[[RAMPS1.3]] or [[RAMPS 1.2]] <br />
<br />
=Ingredients=<br />
<br />
==Schematic==<br />
Current schematic shown. For older versions click the image. Click again for full image.<br />
[[Image:arduinomegapololushieldschematic.png|800px|This is the schematic of the shield.]]<br />
<br />
==Source==<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
| Eagle Files<br />
| These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.)<br />
| [[media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
| Eagle Libraries<br />
| The components used in this board are here. see [[Eagle_Library]]<br />
| [[media:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=Custom Versions=<br />
<br />
==Grogyans==<br />
Will have locking connectors for the motors.<br />
Uses the MAX6675 thermocouple sensor, which essentially replaces the AD595.<br />
Less vias, which should also increase building time.<br />
Bottom only, to enable the possibility of a RepRap or toner transfer method to fabricate the board.<br />
Moved the power LED to the front for easy identification.<br />
Providing the user has a proto-shield for Mega, there is plenty of pins left for them to play with.<br />
By using another tiered board, will alow the possibility of more extruders and LCD all of which can communicate over the I2C protocol.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Showcase=<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:rampsbottom.jpg|printed on a RepRap Mendel with the etch resist method [[Plotting|Using_cad.py]]<br />
Image:rampslabels.jpg|attempt at printing labels with sharpie<br />
Image:Ramps-2sided.jpg|Two-sided PCB Built v1.0<br />
Image:arduinomegapololushieldback.jpg|messy back of the first prototype of RAMPS -- built on a generic megaproto shield with point to point wiring, rather than a custom RAMPS PCB<br />
Image:rampsStandardPinHeaders.jpg|RAMPS with standard pin headers<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
=Change Log=<br />
<br />
*1.4 August 4, 2011<br />
#Changed capacitors and resistors to surface mount components<br />
#Added LEDs to mosfet outputs<br />
#Added bulk capacitors for each stepper driver<br />
#Added pull up resistors to enable to override the Pololu drivers default enabled state<br />
#Added mosfet gate resistors<br />
#Added pull-ups for I2C<br />
#Servo1 connector moved to pin 11 to free 7 for ADK<br />
#Fixed thermals<br />
#Servo 5V supply is only connected to VCC if a jumper is added<br />
#Reset switch changed for small footprint<br />
#Moved Aux conectors around a bit and increased board size ~0.1"<br />
#Added some space around Q3 for a small heatsink<br />
<br />
*1.3 May 13, 2011<br />
#Added 5th stepper driver socket<br />
#Added 3rd thermistor circuit<br />
#Added Heated bed circuit w/ 11A PTC fuse, changed to 4 position pluggable input jack to accommodate additional current<br />
#Increased board size to 4"x2.32"<br />
#Pin order on heater outputs changed<br />
#Increased spacing increased to accommodate different connectors<br />
#Added connectors for optional 2 motors on Z driver<br />
#Added connector for PS control<br />
#Improved expansion connector layout<br />
#Moved LED towards corner and added resistor to LED circuit<br />
#No longer optimised for home etching :(<br />
#License changed to GPL v3 or newer<br />
<br />
* v1.2 January 04, 2011<br />
# Added 0.1" motor connector to RAMPS for each driver (motors no longer have to be connected on top of stepper drivers)<br />
# Added breakouts for serial and I2C<br />
# Changed extra power and pin headers around for easier connection to extra boards.<br />
# Lost most extra analog breakouts<br />
# More silk screen and bottom layer fixing<br />
<br />
* v1.1 September 30, 2010<br />
# Replaced power barrel jack with plug-able screw terminal<br />
# Added jumpers to select micro-stepping on stepper driver boards<br />
# Added debug LED<br />
# Changed mosfet pins to be compatible with FiveD firmware<br />
# Reduced number of 100uF capacitors to 1<br />
# Added 100nF capacitor to 12V input<br />
# Put auxiliary 12VIN and GNDIN pads in a straight line<br />
# Silk screen and bottom layer cleaned up<br />
<br />
* v1.0 Original RAMPS PCB design<br />
<br />
* v0.1? Point to point wired Arduino MEGA Prototype shield<br />
<br />
<br />
=How to get it=<br />
<br />
Bare PCB and components are available from<br />
#[http://ultimachine.com/ramps Ultimachine]<br />
#[http://myworld.ebay.com/tijnekind/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 Brupje] - see items for sale<br />
#[http://reprapsource.com/shop/shop/list/196 ReprapSource]<br />
#[https://shop.grrf.de/index.php?main_page= German RepRap Foundation (GRRF)] - seller of Ramps electronics, plastruder parts, stepper motors, plastics (ABS), mechanics kits.<br />
#[http://xyzprinters.com/23-ramps XYZ-Printers]<br />
#[http://reprapworld.com/?searchresults&cPath=1591_1593 Reprapworld.com]<br />
<br />
Fully assembled board are available from <br />
#[http://gadgets3d.com GADGETS3D] '''Fully assembled RAMPS 1.4'''<br />
#[http://ultimachine.com/content/ramps-pre-assembled-kit Ultimachine]<br />
#[http://myworld.ebay.com/tijnekind/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 Brupje] - see items for sale<br />
#[http://xyzprinters.com/23-ramps XYZ-Printers]<br />
#[http://www.mixshop.com/ MixShop] '''RAMPS 1.4 Pre-Assembled'''<br />
#[http://www.a2aprinter.com/ A2APrinter] '''RAMPS 1.4 Pre-Assembled'''<br />
#[http://store.bcndynamics.com/ BCNdynamics store]<br />
#[http://www.2printbeta.de/ 2PrintBeta]<br />
#[http://reprapworld.com/?searchresults&cPath=1591_1593 Reprapworld.com]<br />
<br />
=Wish list=<br />
This shield would like to replicate with the following external boards<br />
#Additional Stepper Driver.<br />
#Replace the resettable fuse with a traditional [http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=S5906 15A blade fuse] and [http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=S6040 holder]?<br />
#DC Driver<br />
#Two additional Thermistors (for a second extruder and heated chamber)<br />
#Include a second resistor in parallel to the thermistor to reduce self heating. [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2007/10/measuring-temperature-easy-way.html See here]<br />
#Thermocouple<br />
#SD Card -- Available now made by Kliment - [[Sdramps]]<br />
#Control Panel w/LCD<br />
#Ethernet<br />
#Host USB<br />
<br />
=Trouble Shooting=<br />
*Check List<br />
#RAMPS shield firmly seated on Arduino MEGA<br />
#No stray wires/metal to cause short<br />
#All connections firmly seated, screws tight<br />
#Power connection oriented correctly, connected to RAMPS shield (only USB is connected to MEGA)<br />
#Thermistor connected to T0<br />
#Firmware uploaded<br />
#Stepper driver potentiometers to a sane setting (maybe 25% from CCW to start, adjust to enough power to drive axis + not overheat)<br />
#Heater wires properly connected<br />
<br />
*Cannot connect?<br />
** Verify firmware and host software baud rate matches<br />
** Disconnect USB, reconnect, and retry<br />
** It may be a problem with the software you're using (repsnapper). Try using [http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ pronterface].<br />
<br />
*Stepper motor getting too hot?<br />
** Adjust the potentiometer (small screw) on the stepper driver in question by rotating the screw counterclockwise to decrease the current going to the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
*My fan is not working.<br />
** If you have RAMPs 1.3+ and sprinter firmware (set with the default pins for RAMPs 1.3), try attaching the fan to D9 output.<br />
** In pronterface, the fan can be turned on by using the M106 command and turned off with M107.<br />
<br />
==Stepper Driver Testing==<br />
If you are not sure whether you have a problem with your RAMPS or the stepper drivers you can test that the driver is getting the power and signals it needs to work.<br />
<br />
*Stepper motors getting too hot?<br />
** Adjust the potentiometer (small screw) on the stepper driver by rotating the screw counterclockwise to decrease the current going to the stepper motor.<br />
<br />
Use a meter of some sort to test the signals at one of the motor drivers. Be careful not to short anything out. You can use a (-) pad in AUX-1 for ground and test the voltage on VMOT, VDD, EN, STEP, and DIR. If all of these are working correctly then the stepper driver is likely bad.<br />
<pre><br />
High(5V) when disabled, Low when enabled EN-| |-VMOT 12V (or voltage at 5A side of input power connector<br />
Set by Jumper MS1-| |-GND 0V <br />
Set by Jumper MS2-| |-1A ---------------| <Motor Coil A <br />
Set by Jumper MS3-| |-2A ---------------|____<br />
Not used (tied to SLP) RST-| |-1B -----------------/ | <Motor Coil B<br />
Not used (tied to RST) SLP-| |-2B -------------------/<br />
Pulse High for each step STEP-| |-VDD 5V<br />
Switches between High and Low when driven direction changes DIR-| |-GND 0V<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
<br />
==Q&A==<br />
*What power supply you recommend for your ramps board. I have just finished assembly and looking at the diagrams for a pc power supply and wondering about the separate amperages for the extruder and heated bed. Can they be higher amps without damage?<br />
<br />
Yes, the power supply being capable of more amps than required is the desired configuration. The current shown are the max supported by RAMPS and is the minimum the power supply should be capable of. It is also OK to have both of the inputs on RAMPS connected to one PSU with enough capacity. If you are not using a heated bed the entire thing can run off the 5A side (D8 will just not work).<br />
<br />
*I got a RAMPS V1.3 as part of a kit, but it doesn't have any installation instructions - just a schematic. Can you point us to a good tutorial for connecting everything? (i.e. stepper motors, opto flag pcb's, power, data, etc) Some of it (like the single USB port) is obvious, but some of it isn't.<br />
<br />
See [[RAMPS1.3]] for instructions for version 1.3. There is a version navigation bar at the top of the RAMPS pages that allow you to jump to a specific versions instructions. There is a very helpful graphic under Final Check section.<br />
<br />
*For RAMPS V1.3 the power section of the schematic shows several places with GND/12V (C4/C6, X4-2/1, X4-4/3, VCC/D12). Which one is the GND/12V from the power supply? Is it the round power plug like a laptop power plug? Also, is the outside of that plug GND while the inside is +12V? My kit came with a note warning not to reverse the input power or it would cook the board . . . and a plug adapter with no labels that can be installed either way.<br />
<br />
See the connecting power section of your version's page. The round plug is on the Arduino MEGA and will only power the MEGA. You need to power the green pluggable connector, it should not be reversible and the board should be marked (+) and (-). If for some reason your board is not marked you can follow the diagrams and pictures in the wiki.<br />
<br />
[[Category:RAMPS| ]]</div>Gadgets3d