https://reprap.org/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Djl5217&feedformat=atomRepRap - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T15:38:19ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.30.0https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/RepRap_Media_Timeline&diff=89567RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/RepRap Media Timeline2013-04-21T20:06:49Z<p>Djl5217: /* 2012 */</p>
<hr />
<div>This page is a summary of 3D printing stories in press/tv/etc with a focus on RepRap in particular, but with some inclusion of other similar technologies.<br />
<br />
Another good media timeline can be found here:[[http://reprap.org/wiki/MediaMain]] <br />
<br />
Changes to this current timeline will be made by focusing on media that directly relates to RepRaps or interesting extensions which are commercialized items, such as the chocolate 3D printer, and futuristic technologies. <br />
<br />
The media items indicated in "italics" signify the extensions made in the 3D printing industry, while the items in regular font will be related to RepRaps.<br />
<br />
Viewers will notice that the "2012" section has far more items than the other years. This is due to the fact that a majority of advancements took place during this year and concrete ideas began blooming as well. <br />
<br />
= 1980's =<br />
<br />
'''1984'''; Charles "Chuck" Hull develops a technology to print 3D objects using digital data and terms it "Stereolithography" [http://engineeronadisk.com/V2/notes_manufacturing/engineeronadisk-163.html]<br />
<br />
'''March 11, 1986'''; Chuck Hull founded 3D Systems and invents the first 3D printer [http://www.prsnlz.me/articles/3d-systems%E2%80%99-cube-3d-printer-receives-american-technology-award/photos.html]<br />
<br />
'''1987'''; Selective laser sintering is developed at the University of Texas-Austin and commercialized by DTM [http://www.crcnetbase.com/doi/abs/10.1201/9780203910795.ch11]<br />
<br />
'''1988'''; S. Scott Crump invents Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), which is the basis for 3D printing extrusion [http://rpworld.net/cms/index.php/additive-manufacturing/rp-rapid-prototyping/fdm-fused-deposition-modeling-.html]<br />
<br />
= 1990's =<br />
<br />
'''1993'''; MIT patents "Three Dimensional Printing Techniques" which is comparable to a regular 2D printer's methodology. [http://rtei.org/blog/2011/12/29/the-effect-of-university-monopoly-licensing-in-3d-printing/]<br />
<br />
'''1995'''; Z Corporation acquires a technology license from MIT and begins building 3D printers [http://www.zcorp.com/en/Company/At-a-Glance/spage.aspx]<br />
<br />
'''1996'''; The term "3D Printer" is first used to address rapid prototyping machines [http://www.3d-innovations.com/blog/?p=373]<br />
<br />
'''1996'''; First major release of 3D printers from Z Corp, Stratasys, and 3D Systems [http://buildatron.com/history-of-3d-printing]<br />
<br />
= 2004 =<br />
<br />
'''February'''; Adrian Bowyer publishes the idea for a self replicating 3D printer, and concept of the RepRap is born! More on the RepRap About Page [About]<br />
<br />
= 2005 =<br />
<br />
'''March 9th'''; Spectrum Z-510 is the first high definition 3D color printer to be manufactured [http://www.zcorp.com/en/Press-Room/Z-Corporation-Ships-Spectrum-Z51/news.aspx]<br />
<br />
'''March 23rd'''; The RepRap blog started [[http://blog.reprap.org/]] <br />
<br />
'''June 2nd'''; Reprap project discussed in "The Machine that can copy anything" by Simon Hooper on CNN.com [[http://edition.cnn.com/2005/TECH/06/02/tech.reprap/]]<br />
<br />
'''October 6th'''; Arduino is released [http://spectrum.ieee.org/geek-life/hands-on/the-making-of-arduino/0]<br />
<br />
= 2006 =<br />
<br />
'''February'''; 'Neil Gershenfeld on Fab Labs' a TED talk about a (much higher cost) mobile fabrication laboratory, and enabling consumers to produce products for a "market of one". [http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/eng/neil_gershenfeld_on_fab_labs.html] <br />
<br />
=2007=<br />
<br />
=2008=<br />
<br />
'''February 9'''; The Darwin printer is able to print more than half of its own parts, thus self-replication is successful [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_Project]<br />
<br />
'''June 4'''; The Telegraph releases a science article about self-replicating robots leading into the RepRap. Parts of the article discuss the possible implications and advantages of a low cost 3D printer that can replicate its own parts and evolve. [[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/science/science-news/3343522/Robot-that-can-build-itself-to-be-unveiled.html]]<br />
<br />
'''November'''; Thingiverse is launched, the first website where people can uplaoad their own 3D models for people to print out, open sourcing at its finest, what will you upload? [http://www.thingiverse.com/]<br />
<br />
=2009=<br />
<br />
'''October 2'''; A second generation design, known as "Mendel", prints its first part [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_Project]]<br />
<br />
=2010=<br />
'''April 30'''; 'The disruptive future of printing' an article by Bill Thompson of the BBC about RepRap and its future. [http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/10089419] <br />
<br />
'''November 10'''; 'It Will Be Awesome if They Don't Screw it Up: 3D Printing...' a whitepaper by Michael Weinberg of Public Knowledge discussing the legal implications of widespread 3D printing. [http://www.publicknowledge.org/it-will-be-awesome-if-they-dont-screw-it-up] <br />
<br />
'''December 20th'''; ''3d printing: The state of the art. (Ciara Byrne in VentureBeat) [http://venturebeat.com/2010/12/20/3d-printing-the-state-of-the-art/]''<br />
Summary: An article discussing the importance of the present technology, why usage of 3D printing has risen and what the future use of the technology could be including some inherent problem we'll have to deal with. The importance of this article lies in the clarity with which it presents some very basic ideas. The readability also allows for a wide variety of readers to appreciate the upcoming innovations.<br />
<br />
'''December 31st'''; ''11 3d printing predictions for the year 2011. (Joris Peels on TechCrunch) [http://techcrunch.com/2010/12/31/3d-printing-prediction/]'' Summary: Some extremely specific predictions and a few less specific ones having to do with well known names such as Makerbot, Adobe, Microsoft, Stratasys, Objet and a quite a few more. All predictions indicate a rather significant increase in popularity for 3D printing.<br />
<br />
=2011=<br />
'''January 12'''; 'The Wow Factor of 3-D Printing,' an article in the New York Times about consumer 3-D printers. It mentions Reprap, MakerBot, and Bits From Bytes. [http://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/13/technology/personaltech/13basics.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=reprap&st=cse] <br />
<br />
'''January 19th'''; ''3d printing now in Titanium! (Charlie Sorrel on Wired.com) [http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2011/01/3d-printing-now-in-titanium/]''<br />
Summary: The article discusses the advancements in 3D printing, specifically Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) to print with titanium. <br />
<br />
'''March 23'''; ''Handheld Vacuum Cleaner 3D Printed (Matthew Humphries on Geek.com [http://www.geek.com/articles/geek-cetera/print-your-very-own-handheld-vacuum-cleaner-20110323/]"<br />
Summary: This article on the surface is about the ability to print out your own Vacuum. The real message behind it are the possibilities of open source programming as well as Rep Rap printers. Matthew offers his opinion on the exciting development as he puts it.<br />
<br />
'''April'''; Copyright questions as 3d printing comes of age. [http://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/news/2011/04/the-next-napster-copyright-questions-as-3d-printing-comes-of-age.ars/3] <br />
<br />
'''June 8th'''; Bre Pettis, founder of Makerbot Industries, makes a guest appearance on the Colbert Report discussing the relevance of 3D printing in modern society [[http://www.colbertnation.com/the-colbert-report-videos/388966/june-08-2011/bre-pettis]] <br />
<br />
'''July 11th'''; ''Geekteach: 3D Printing In the Classroom (By Buzz Garwood on BYTE.com) [http://www.informationweek.com/byte/personal-tech/science-technology/geekteach-3d-printing-in-the-classroom/231001199]''<br />
Summary: This is an uplifting article from a 3D printer enthusiast. He is a teacher and has been exposing his students to the 3D printing concept and technology. He talks about some of the way he utilizes it in the class room as well as the a description of where 3D technology is today. He even tells a story of a fellow teacher who presents his students with design problems and uses a printer to fabricate their solutions. <br />
<br />
'''August 16th'''; ''Eric Savitz, a reporter for Forbes(R) recognizes the significance and potential that 3D printing offers to the world, as the cost goes down and the technology develops. [http://www.forbes.com/sites/ciocentral/2011/08/17/how-3d-printing-will-change-absolutely-everything-it-touches/]''<br />
<br />
'''August 23rd'''; Makerbot announces that they are accepting $10 million in startup money[[http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/08/23/all-star-lineup-invests-in-makerbot/]] <br />
<br />
'''Fall 2011'''; [[Open Hybrid Mendel]] Design is tested at Penn State University Park Campus. <br />
<br />
'''September 9'''; ''An excellent YouTube video highlighting the amazing capabilities of 3D printers (by Fun Theory)' [[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aghzpO_UZE]]'' <br />
<br />
'''September 16'''; ''BBC News article on a new application of 3D printing 'Artificial Blood Vessels Created on a 3D Printer' [[http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-14946808]]'' <br />
<br />
'''September 20'''; Article on the Make blog about a working AR-15 magazine on thingiverse. [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/proscribed-printables.html] <br />
<br />
'''September 20'''; ''Origo: A 3D Printer for kids (John Biggs in TechCrunch) [http://techcrunch.com/2011/09/20/origo-a-3d-printer-for-kids/]'' Summary: The purple printer uses a thin stream of plastic to create various objects. It should be the same size as 3 Xbox 360's and cost the same as 3 of them as well with an estimated price of about 800$. Origo is designed to have a minimum amount of moving parts and a simple UI using 3Dtin as a design platform. <br />
<br />
'''October 3rd'''; ''Albensi Labs use 3D printing for dental restoration making the turnaround time drop from 7 days to 2 days. [http://news.thomasnet.com/companystory/Albensi-Labs-Turnaround-Time-on-Dental-Restorations-Drops-from-Seven-Days-to-Just-Two-Days-Using-Objet-3D-Printing-603162#_normalStart]''<br />
<br />
'''November 14th'''; '' Joe McKendrick of smartplanet.com discusses how the Fayetteville Free Library of Fayetteville, NY announced its plans to incorperate a “hackerspace” into its public library this will allow a librayr to expand on what it means to be a library[http://www.smartplanet.com/blog/business-brains/3d-printing-coming-to-a-library-near-you/19964], this issue is also being explored on the collegiate level at the University of Nevada, Reno[http://www.engadget.com/2012/10/19/reshaping-universities-through-3d-printing/][http://acrl.ala.org/techconnect/?p=1403]'' <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Unknown'''; "Academic paper released investigating the effects of structure and orientation on the strength of 3D printed materials. [https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:YM4FYwGua1QJ:bib.irb.hr/datoteka/586658.Paper_KGK_Galeta-Raos-Somolanji.docx+3d+printer+orientation+strength&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESitsHarLN2UbBcjnKOoRUuEPseVemMp-v84dnntyG52_SaE43ADK4e4ZUSP7_uyfVZbmg_DHFHODzg1j1pOyekU2yZKtHMHTKSRBlG9WDWnY51GM40BVxkILUuQoLqJfC1iAhus&sig=AHIEtbTeBSLz0Bx2zvR2M9PsE_dLHVdTTg]<br />
<br />
'''Unknown''' ''Artist uses solar powered 3D printer to make glass objects http://www.markuskayser.com/work/solarsinter/''<br />
Summary: The machine focuses the sun into a dot that is so hot it sinters the sand layer by layer into objects like bowls.<br />
<br />
=2012=<br />
<br />
'''January 25'''; Physibles @ The Pirate Bay [https://thepiratebay.org/browse/605] <br />
<br />
'''February 6'''; ''Transplant jaw made by 3D printer claimed as first [http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-16907104]'' (for BBC) <br><br />
Summary: A lower jaw, created from 3D printed titanium powder heated and fused together with a laser. This jaw was fitted to an 83-year-old woman’s face, and is said to be the first patient-specific implant in the replacement of the entire lower jaw. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''March 6'''; The CADspan Plugin for Google SketchUp allows generation of solid, 3D printable STL files [http://www.cadspan.com/tools] (Cantos for CADspan) <br><br />
Summary: Describes the CADspan Plugin for SketchUp which eases the process of creating a model for 3D printing. Popular tools in SketchUp are listed and their functions are explained. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''March 10'''; ''3D printing from an Android device [http://hackaday.com/2012/03/10/3d-printing-from-an-android-device/]'' (Benchoff for Hack a Day) <br><br />
Summary: This article discusses an Android app, Makerdroid, which was designed to get South African students excited about technology and desktop fabrication labs. This app allows the user to create .STL files on an Android device and generate Gcode with Skeinforge in order to print 3D objects directly from their Android devices. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''April 9'''; ''The Delicious Future: 3D Chocolate Printer Finally Available for Purchase'' (Doug Aamoth, Time Tech) [http://techland.time.com/2012/04/09/the-delicious-future-3d-chocolate-printer-finally-available-for-purchase/]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: Although the technology to 3D print chocolate has existed for years, there has never been a commercial model until now. The machine costs about $4600, and can be used for more filament types than just chocolate. <br />
<br />
'''April 15'''; ''Integrated 3D-printed reactionware for chemical synthesis and analysis ''(Symes, Kitson, Yan, and others for Nature Chemistry)'' [http://www.nature.com/nchem/journal/v4/n5/full/nchem.1313.html]''<br />
<br />
Summary: 3D printing has the potential to transform science and technology by investigating its ability to print chemical reagents directly into a 3D reactionware matrix, greatly reducing the production and implementation cost of such systems by putting them under digital control. Further research needs to be done to make these processes cheap and accessible to modest laboratories, but there is potential.<br />
<br />
'''April 30'''; ''Behrokh Khoshnevis, Professor of Industrial & Systems Engineering and is the Director of Manufacturing Engineering Graduate Program at the University of Southern California (USC) brings the idea of 3D printing to automate the construction of buildings, maybe one day you can 3D print your own house [http://tedxtalks.ted.com/video/TEDxOjai-Behrokh-Khoshnevis-Con]''<br />
<br />
'''May 6'''; ''STEMulate Learning integrates 3D printing into classroom [http://www.3ders.org/articles/20120506-stemulate-learning-integrates-3d-printing-into-classroom.html]''<br />
<br />
'''May 21'''; ''Working Lathe Made with 3D Printing (Walters for Geek.com)[http://www.geek.com/articles/geek-pick/3d-printing-genius-creates-working-lathe-20120521/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: A 3D printing enthusiast set out to prove that useful items can be created by RepRaps by designing and printing all necessary parts required to construct a small, compact, working lathe. The device utilizes a drill motor and can be utilized to create items for everyday use. Check out the video on the article's website!<br />
<br />
'''June 15'''; ''Guitar manufacturing is revolutionized by 3D printing (Doesburg for theguardian) [http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology/2012/jun/15/3d-printing-revolutionising-guitar-making?newsfeed=true]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Olaf Diegel, a professor of mechatronics at Massey University in Auckland, New Zealand, has revolutionized the process of guitar manufacturing by developing a virtually indestructible nylon-bodied guitar that would make members of ''The Who'' cringe. Diegel can expect big things for 3D printing technology in the near future, predicting that entire buildings will be capable of printing within 5 or 6 years.<br />
<br />
'''July 2'''; ''Possibilities of printing dinosaur fossils [http://www.theverge.com/2012/7/2/3105916/3d-printing-dinosaur-fossils-drexel-lacovara]''<br />
<br />
'''July 4'''; ''Researchers create artificial liver from 3D printed sugar lattice (arkar for allvoices.com)[http://www.allvoices.com/contributed-news/12520676-researchers-create-artificial-liver-from-3d-printed-sugar-lattice]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Researchers from UPenn and MIT have developed the capability of combining sugar and 3D printing technology to amass an artificial liver. The printer extruded a sugar armature structure in which tissue and blood vessels were organized to promote proper blood circulation, then liver cells were introduced after the sugar lattice was dissolved using water. While these synthetic organs are not nearly large enough for human implantation, the study exhibitsa very inventive and potentially life-saving use for 3D printing technology.<br />
<br />
'''July 6'''; ''New Innovations in printing Aluminum [http://www.ecocomposites.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=10269%3Anew-additive-aluminium-composites&catid=3%3Anews-free&Itemid=2]''<br />
<br />
'''July 7'''; ''Burritobot: Mexican Cuisine and 3D Printing (Technabob for technabob.com) [http://technabob.com/blog/2012/07/07/burritob0t-3d-burrito-printer]''<br />
<br />
Summary: In the spirit of expanding the possibilities of 3D printing, Manro Manriquez has developed a design for the Burritob0t, which is a robotic printer/extruder that will output burritos. The idea was developed after "realizing the overlap between 3D printing (additive assembly and interchangeable ingredients) with burrito construction." The project plans to launch a Kickstarter program to fund its efforts, but the Big Picture is clear: the Burritob0t is just one of many efforts attempting to realize the possibilities of robotic food construction.<br />
<br />
'''July 11'''; ''Building Planes with Giant 3D Printers (Olson for Forbes) [http://www.forbes.com/sites/parmyolson/2012/07/11/airbus-explores-a-future-where-planes-are-built-with-giant-3d-printers/]<br />
<br />
Summary: Bastian Schaefer, a cabin engineer with Airbus, has been toying with the possibilities of 3D printing an entire airplane. As the largest 3D printers to date are the size of a modest dining room table, the plan is part of an almost 40 year endeavor in which smaller airplane parts would be printed now while entire planes should be extruded by 2050. Efforts are inspired by the possibility of manufacturing lighter simulated aircraft by cheaper means.<br />
<br />
'''July 12'''; The next generation RepRap prints PLA at tremendously high speeds [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buhjfMHRTnE]<br />
<br />
'''July 16'''; ''3D printed keys used to hack high security handcuffs (Greenburg for Forbes) [http://www.forbes.com/sites/andygreenberg/2012/07/16/hacker-opens-high-security-handcuffs-with-3d-printed-and-laser-cut-keys/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Think your personal belongings are secure? A German hacker known as "Ray" demonstrated to an audience at the Hackers of Planet Earth conference in New York that even high-security handcuffs are no match for the powers of 3D printers and a carefully designed, makeshift, plastic key. This development reveals the susceptibility of secure systems to the looming power of 3D printers and a little human ingenuity.<br />
<br />
'''July 17'''; ''3D Printers In The Library; Toward a FabLab in the Academic Library (Kurt and Colegrove for ACRL TechConnect Blog) [http://acrl.ala.org/techconnect/?p=1403]''<br />
<br />
Summary: The DeLaMare Science & Engineering Library at the University of Nevada, Reno has added two 3D printers, a 3D scanner, and supporting software available for general use to the school community. Thanks to professor Tod Colegrove, the University is one of the first to experiment with an open-lab 3D printing environment, investigating just how the school environment will benefit from the ability to rapidly prototype designs applicable to a range of majors and scientific disciplines.<br />
<br />
'''July 18'''; ''3D printing services being offered at universities for the first time [http://www.foxreno.com/news/news/local-education/unr-library-first-nation-offer-3d-printing-campusw/nPxzf/]''<br />
<br />
'''July 22'''; ''Printing out your own prescription meds [http://io9.com/5928050/3d-printing-technology-could-let-you-print-your-pharmaceuticals-at-home]<br />
<br />
Summary: Dr. Lee Cronin from the University of Glasgow has applied 3D printing to chemistry. By printing custom reaction vessels with polypropylene, he creates strong, yet chemically inert reactors other unit operations to create what could be called a small chemical plant. By using the correct reactants and 3D printed architecture, one could make their own drugs. Because all organic molecules are made almost entirely of carbon, oxygen, any hydrogen, it is throught that a few basic reactants and 3D printed equipment could provide all that is needed to have access to a wide variety of drugs.<br />
<br />
'''July 25'''; 3D printing market set to hit $3 billion by 2018 ''(Raby for SlashGear)''[http://www.slashgear.com/3d-printing-market-to-hit-3-billion-by-2018-23239870/]<br />
<br />
Summary: Global Industry Analysts projects that collectively, the business of 3D printing will reach $3 billion in profits by they year 2018, which is made possible by a number of factors: evolving the technology to enable printing of vastly different materials, driving down production costs to build more printers cheaply, etc. 3D printing is more than just a fad, but a flowering business venture!<br />
<br />
'''July 26'''; ''World's first 3D Printed Gun [http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/133514-the-worlds-first-3d-printed-gun]<br />
<br />
'''July 30'''; ''Printing Unammed Aerial Vehicles [http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2011/sep/21/printed-drones-southampton-university]''<br />
<br />
'''August 6'''; ''3D Printed Exoskeleton aids in Arm Usage [http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/08/03/wrex-3d-printed-exoskeleton-girl-move-arms_n_1739419.html] <br />
<br />
'''August 6'''; ''New machine prints stone using sand and binding agent [http://www.gizmag.com/stone-spray/23634/]''<br />
Summary: A new machine called Stone Spray uses an robotic arm like sprayer to build small structures from dirt and sand. A binder is added to the material to make it solidify. The noval thing about this arm design is that it can print from any angle, not just from the floor up. It can even print horizontally from a vertical wall. Future developments could result in a machine that can build retaining walls and bridges from materials found in the local environment. Data on the stones durability or the cost of the binder is unknown. <br />
<br />
'''August 8'''; ''Focus Feature's stop motion movie ParaNorman uses 3D printed facial parts to "push facial performance to new levels" [http://www.engadget.com/2012/08/08/paranorman-taps-3d-printing/]''<br />
<br />
'''August 17'''; ''US company wants to make 3D bio-ink printed meat for human consumption (Merco Press)'' [http://en.mercopress.com/2012/08/17/us-company-wants-to-make-3d-bio-ink-printed-meat-for-human-consumption] <br><br />
Summary: A US start-up company has a solution for people who want to eat meat, but don't want to harm animals either: 3D printed meat.<br />
<br />
'''August 29'''; ''NASA funds Tethers Unlimited Inc. to work on its SpiderFab orbital 3D printer (Cameron Naramore, 3D Printer) [http://www.3dprinter.net/nasa-spiderfab-3d-print-spacecraft-in-space]<br/><br />
Summary: NASA spends much of its money on base costs of bringing equiptment up into space. They are also limited in which object to bring because very fragile ones will not endure the g's during liftoff. However, the emerging technology 'SpiderFab' is a 3D printer which will operate in space to print objects out of the atmosphere. With SpiderFab, innovative, hightech equipment can be printed directly out of our atmosphere and no longer require special liftoff considerations.<br />
<br />
'''September 19'''; ''Software to Detect Stress in Objects Before Print (Zach Walton, WebProNews/Technology) [http://www.webpronews.com/purdue-university-professor-fixes-major-flaw-in-3d-printing-2012-09]<br/><br />
Summary: Many 3D printed parts have accurate exterior features but fall short when it comes to structural performance. Purdue University professor Bedrich Benes is working on a software which will find these stress concentration points and add material to reduce the likelyhood of failure. This program also can find areas of excess material and remove it to save money and time (i.e. hollowed figures with struts in lieu of a completely solid object). <br />
<br />
'''September 21'''; ''3D Print Wood with Laywood Filament [http://www.geek.com/articles/geek-cetera/laywood-filaments-lets-you-3d-print-with-wood-20120921/]'' (Walters for Geek.com) <br><br />
Summary: 3D printers don't just print plastic, they can apparently print a wood-like material called 'Laywood' which feels, smells, and looks like real wood. This material consists of 40% recycled wood, and a polymer binder. This material won't warp, it doesn't experience shrinkage, and it doesn't require a heated bed for production. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''September 27''';''3D Printer Form 1 Gets 6X Its $100K Funding Goal On Kickstarter… In One Day [http://techcrunch.com/2012/09/27/3d-printer-form-1-gets-6x-its-100k-funding-goal-on-kickstarter-in-one-day/]''<br />
<br />
'''October 1'''; ''3-D Printer Company Seizes Machine From Desktop Gunsmith [http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2012/10/3d-gun-blocked/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Cody Wilson, a second-year law student at the University of Texas at Austin, had his 3D printer seized upon revealing the news that he was planning on printing a pistol capable of firing a single shot. Wilson leads Wiki Weapon, a project that plans to make open-source blue prints for constructing 3D ptinted guns. Stratasys lent a Stratasys uPrint SE to Wiki Weapon; upon discovery of his plan to print a pistol without a gun manufacturers license, they cancelled the lease and seized the printer. Wilson argues that it is legal in the U.S. to manufacture a gun at home without a license if it is concealable on a person, although such a weapon is subject to review.<br />
<br />
'''October 3'''; ''Army researchers use cutting edge 3D printers [http://www.army.mil/article/88464/]''<br />
<br />
'''October 5'''; ''Seeing Is Believing, Disney Crafts 3D Printed Optics [http://www.engadget.com/2012/10/05/seeing-is-believing-disney-crafts-3d-printed-optics-video/]'' (Hearn for Engadget) <br><br />
Summary: A group of engineers from Disney are using 'printed optics' to create interactive objects using 3D printing. This technology uses the 3D model to guide the light from LEDs to potentially replace the use of LCD and LED screens in displaying information on smaller interactive devices. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''October 10'''; ''CNBC Reports on Various Entities utilizing Bio-3D printing [http://www.cnbc.com/id/49348354]''<br />
<br />
'''October 10'''; ''3D Printing (Additive Manufacturing) Is Turning the Impossible Into the Possible [http://www.huffingtonpost.com/daniel-burrus/3d-printing-additive-manu_b_1951777.html?utm_hp_ref=tw]'' (Burrus for The Blog) <br><br />
Summary: This article describes the process of 3D printing and its applications as of recently. In the future, it can be used to deliver products to customers as soon as they are manufactured; like shoes, dresses, parts for jet engines, or even human bones. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''October 18'''; ''New Patent Could Saddle 3D Printers With DRM ''(Marks for New Scientist)''[http://gizmodo.com/5952780/new-patent-could-saddle-3d-printers-with-drm]''<br />
<br />
Summary: US patent 8286236, granted to Intellectual Ventures of Bellvue, Washington, grants 3D printers the ability to read digital authenticity codes judging whether or not that printer has legal authority to print a digital part file. This sweeping patent leads to more controversy surrounding digital rights management (DRM).<br />
<br />
'''October 18'''; ''Spice Up Your 3-D Prints With Custom Plastics (Joseph Flaherty, WIRED) [http://www.wired.com/design/2012/10/custom-printer-plastics/]''<br/><br />
Summary: Although 3D printer plastics may seem like a boring topic to some, Faberdashery, a plastics company based in Somerset, England is trying to change that. By examining and perfecting each of their plastics' formulas, the company can provide RepRap machine owners with a precise product taylored to their specific needs including color, smell, and even the addition of sparkles.<br />
<br />
'''October 18'''; ''Guitar Printer Makes Functioning Instrument (Aaron Sankin for Huffington Post) [http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/10/18/guitar-printer_n_1982704.html]''<br/><br />
Summary: Combining a love of engineering and a passion for music, Olaf Diegel has created a business out of printing customized 3D guitars capable of producing rich sounds and excellent tonal ranges. Although skeptical at first, San Francisco-based designer Scott Summit agrees that even 3D printed ''accoustic'' guitars perform well and do not buckle under the stress of strings, etc.<br />
<br />
'''October 19'''; ''The Future of Higher Education: Reshaping Universities Through 3D Printing [http://www.engadget.com/2012/10/19/reshaping-universities-through-3d-printing/]''<br />
<br />
'''October 19'''; ''Formlabs FORM 1 high-resolution 3D printer [http://www.engadget.com/2012/10/19/formlabs-form-1-eyes-on/]''<br />
<br />
'''October 19'''; ''3D Printing comes to the Disney Universe: Your face Frozen in Carbonite'' (David J Hill, Singularity Hub) [http://singularityhub.com/2012/10/19/3d-printing-comes-to-the-disney-universe-your-face-frozen-in-carbonite/]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: Disney has began to use 3D printing technology to personalize objects. Girls can have small statues of Disney Princesses printed out featuring their own faces for about $100. Star Wars fans can have small models of themselves frozen in carbonite. This interesting use of 3D printing will not only bring in profits for Disney, but also serve to greatly promote 3D printing technology.<br />
<br />
'''October 22'''; ''3D Bio-Printing Proposed to Send Vaccines and Medicine Via Email (Debora MacKenzie for New Scientist) [http://www.newscientist.com/blogs/shortsharpscience/2012/10/craig-venter-email-vaccine.html]'' <br><br />
Summary: A man who sequenced the human genome using his own DNA, then made "synthetic life" by outfitting a gutted bacterium with homemade genes, says his next trick will be emailing biological molecules, using 3D biological printers. The move could revolutionise healthcare - and biological warfare.<br />
<br />
'''October 23'''; ''UVA Undergraduates Print 3D Plane [http://www.geek.com/articles/geek-cetera/3d-printed-aircraft-successfully-takes-flight-20121023/]''<br />
<br />
'''October 25'''; ''EFF Fights To Protect 3D Printers From Illegitimate Patents [http://www.webpronews.com/eff-fights-to-protect-3d-printers-from-illegitimate-patents-2012-10]''<br />
<br />
'''October 25''';''With ‘Safe Haven,’ Desktop Weaponeers Resume Work on 3D-Printed Guns [http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2012/10/wiki-weapon/] (Beckhusen for WIRED)'' <br><br />
Summary: A group's efforts to create a 3D printed pistol looks promising. Efforts were halted when the group's printer was taken away and now they are currently applying for a gun license. Companies have been contributing to the development by volunteering manufacturing space and providing support in the group's vision. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''October 30''';'' 3D printing- a new industrial revolution [http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-20137791]''<br />
<br />
'''November 2''';'' Wired CEO Chris Anderson leaves Wired to start 3D Robotics company [http://www.wired.com/about/2012/11/wired-editor-in-chief-chris-anderson-steps-down/?cid=co4402984]--[[User:dwj131|dwj131]]<br />
<br />
'''November 4'''; ''Turning your thoughts into actual 3D objects [http://www.3ders.org/articles/20121104-turning-your-thoughts-into-actual-3d-objects.html]''<br />
<br />
'''November 9'''; 3D-Printed Rockets Help Propel NASA's Space Shuttle Launch (Philippa Warr for Wired) [http://www.wired.com/design/2012/11/3d-printed-nasa-rockets/]'' <br><br />
Summary: Parts for the rocket engines of NASA’s Space Launch System will be created using a method of 3D-printing known as selective laser melting.<br />
<br />
'''November 9'''; Researchers at Purdue develop a program to automatically tweak designs for 3D printed parts to improve strength ''(Matus for inhabitat.com)''[http://inhabitat.com/3d-printing-gets-a-boost-in-structural-strength-thanks-to-a-new-sofware-application/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Researchers at Purdue University have developed computer software that recognizes structural flaws in 3D models and adds supporting material before the objects are printed, greatly increasing the structural integrity of these 3D printed materials.<br />
<br />
'''November 11'''; Next Generation 3D Printing: Highter Resolution, Tastier, and Super Cute [http://www.wired.com/design/2012/05/next-generation-3-d-printing/?utm_source=Contextly&utm_medium=RelatedLinks&utm_campaign=Previous]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
<br />
'''November 12'''; Portable 3D Printer for the Military (David Meyer, ZDNet)[http://www.zdnet.com/us-military-working-on-backpack-sized-440-3d-printer-7000007257/]<br/><br />
Summary: U.S. Military has developed a new, inexpensive, portable 3D printer capable of printing spare parts in the field. 1/4 the cost of the MakerBot Replicator 2, these new machines are small and can even fit in a backpack, extremely useful for spare parts if needed during a warfight.<br />
<br />
'''November 12'''; 3D-Printing Photo Booth Makes You Into an Action Figure[http://www.wired.com/design/2012/11/3d-printing-photobooth/]'' [http://www.gizmag.com/3d-printing-rockets-nasa-sls/24909/](Warr for WIRED) <br><br />
Summary: A photo booth in Japan will scan your body and create a figurine of you. It can be a maximum of 8 inches tall and doesn't have the precision yet to pick up on shiny jewelry, earrings, mesh items, or glasses. Customers must pose for about 15 minutes for the machine to collect their body data. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''November 12'''; Scientists reveal new insights on nano 3D printing[http://www.rdmag.com/news/2012/11/scientists-reveal-new-insights-nano-3d-printing]''<br />
<br />
'''November 12'''; Voxeljet 3D printer used to produce Skyfall's Aston Martin stunt double ''(Hearn for engadget)''[http://www.engadget.com/2012/11/12/voxeljet-3d-printer-skyfalls-aston-martin-stunt-double/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Do you love James Bond? The filmmakers of the latest Bond movie, ''Skyfall,'' tasked 3D printing company Voxeljet with sculpting 1:3 scale stunt doubles of James' latest whip, the Aston Martin DB5. Luckily, no real vehicles were harmed in the making of the film, but these 18-piece scale models were. Check out the photos within the article!<br />
<br />
'''November 14'''; Minecraft Creations Become Real! [http://multiplayerblog.mtv.com/2012/11/14/figureprints-minecraft-3d-printing/]''<br />
<br />
'''November 19'''; 3D Printer Powered by Heart Cells ''(Walton on WebProNews)''[http://www.webpronews.com/this-3d-printed-bio-bot-uses-rat-heart-cells-to-move-2012-11]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Researchers at The University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign have developed a mobile 3D printed robot powered by rat heart cells. They hope that one day, these robots can be used to detect and/or neutralize specific chemical and toxins found in our environment.<br />
<br />
'''November 21'''; 3D Systems sues Formlabs and Kickstater for patent infringement and promotion respectively ''(Dillet for TechCrunch)''[http://techcrunch.com/2012/11/21/3d-systems-sues-3d-printer-company-formlabs-for-patent-infringement-and-kickstarter-for-promotion/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Thanks to the stereolithography printing technique, Formlabs and Kickstarer have joined forces to create the Form 1, a low-cost 3D printer capable of professional grade printing built into a hobbyist size and budget. Unfortunately, ''3D systems'' has held a patent on stereolithography techniques since 1997 and is demanding reparations by legal means.<br />
<br />
'''November 22'''; Scientists develop 3D tissue printer that prints cartilage[http://www.thestar.com/living/health/article/1291531--scientists-develop-3d-tissue-printer-that-prints-cartilage] (Star Staff for The Star)--[[User:dwj131|dwj131]] <br><br />
Summary: A 3D tissue printer was developed by scientists at Wake Forest University, which uses a traditional inkjet printer combined with an electrospinning machine. This was a proof of concept study which was successfully tested on mice with cartilage cells from a rabbit's ear. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''November 23'''; EDSGN 497D is Mentioned in an Article in Onward State[http://onwardstate.com/community/power-to-the-people-mass-manufacturing-for-the-masses-takes-off-with-edsgn-497d/]'' (Sami for Onward State) <br> <br />
Summary: Penn State’s EDSGN 497D course was featured on Onward State’s website. The article describes the open source RepRap technology, as well as the course structure in order to inform the surrounding community. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''November 24'''; GE Is So Stoked About 3D Printing, They're Using It To Make Parts For Jet Engines[http://www.businessinsider.com/ge-buys-3d-printing-company-to-make-parts-for-jet-engines-2012-11]''<br />
<br />
'''November 26'''; 3D printers to print out electronics in the near future ''(Mathur for thinkdigit.com)''[http://www.thinkdigit.com/General/3D-printers-to-print-out-electronics-cheaply_11499.html]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Researchers at the University of Warwick have developed a simple and inexpensive conductive plastic composite with 3D printing applications. This material can allow the printing of electronic tracks and sensors directly into 3D printed objects, opening doors for 3D printers to print electronics sometime in the near future. <br />
<br />
'''November 26'''; Fancy 3D printer spits out 'replacement parts' for humans ''(Lourens for gearburn.com)''[http://gearburn.com/2012/11/fancy-3d-printer-spits-outs-replacement-parts-for-humans/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: As scientists at the Wake Forest Institute for Regenerative Medicine have created cartilage using 3D printers capable for human transplants (see article here: [http://www.thestar.com/living/health/article/1291531--scientists-develop-3d-tissue-printer-that-prints-cartilage]), Lourens discusses his views on why 3D printing technology will 'disrupt the world in 2013.' <br />
<br />
'''November 26'''; 3D Printing Satellites ''(Kaurfman for TechNewsDaily)''[http://news.yahoo.com/3d-printing-low-cost-satellite-234108323.html]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Scientists have developed a space-ready, 3D printed CubeSat in seeking a low-cost way to launch their experiments into space. All but the satellite's sensors and computer chips were 3D printed in the laboratory. Development of these satellites can be revolutionized by 3D printing, as the process can be almost fully automated. Want to learn more about CubeSats? Check out the article!<br />
<br />
'''November 27'''; Customized Toy Records [http://www.pocket-lint.com/news/48557/fisher-price-3d-printed-records]''<br />
<br />
'''November 27'''; Get a 3-d print of your unborn child [http://news.discovery.com/tech/3d-printer-fetus-fasotec-120808.html]''<br />
<br />
'''November 28'''; Virginia Tech: Interactive 3-D printing station [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1MhNlGi-5I&feature=youtu.be]<br />
--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 16:45, 28 November 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
'''November 29'''; ''Staples to offer 'Easy 3D' printing service (Sharif Sakr in engadget) [http://www.engadget.com/2012/11/29/staples-easy-3d-printing-service/]'' Summary: The service, first starting in Belgium and the Netherlands, will eventually expand to all Staples stores. You'll be able to upload your file and then have it printed as fragments of paper arranged in 0.1mm layers up to a maximum height of six inches.<br />
<br />
'''November 29'''; ''3D printers could use Moon or Mars rocks as raw materials (BBC) [http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-20542496]''<br />
Summary: The article discusses the possibilities of using Moon rocks to create tools or spare parts. Prof Amit Bandyopadhyay is quoted backing the possibility and he is supported by David Woods (author of How Apollo Flew). Prof Colin Pillinger offers quotes claiming that it is a nice theory however not all that practical or worth it.<br />
<br />
'''December 3'''; ''3-D Printed Gun Only Lasts 6 Shots (Robert Beckhusen in Wired) [http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2012/12/weaponeers/] and (Andy Greenberg in Forbes) [http://www.forbes.com/sites/andygreenberg/2012/12/03/heres-what-it-looks-like-to-fire-a-partly-3d-printed-gun-video/]'' <br />
Summary: Only one part, the lower receiver, was printed out in the gun. This is a very important part since it is heavily regulated and carries the serial number of the weapon. It was expected to break, but in something closer to 20 rather than only 6 shots. <br />
<br />
'''December 3'''; ''Merger Creates World's Largest 3-D Print Company'' (Daniel Ferry, The Motley Fool.) [http://seekingalpha.com/article/1040891-is-there-an-undervalued-3d-printer-manufacturer-yes-arcam-ab]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]] <br />
Summary: Two of the three biggest 3D printing companies, Stratasys and Objet, have merged to create the world's biggest 3D printing company. The new $3 billion company will face difficulties in integrating the separate companies, but the potential benefits of combining resources far outweigh the risks. The company will still be named Stratasys, and Stratasys shareholders control 55% while Objet controls 45%.<br />
<br />
'''December 3'''; ''Arcam AB is an undervalued 3D printer manufacturer'' (David Allen, Seeking Alpha) [http://www.fool.com/investing/general/2012/12/03/merger-creates-worlds-largest-3d-print-company.aspx]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: While Arcam AB may not have as many sales as 3D Systems or Stratasys, it does have a much high return on equity while maintaining a strong profit margin. Arcam AB focuses on working with expensive metals like Titanium and Cobalt Chromium, where the reduced waste of additive manufacturing leads to significant profits. The Swedish company is begin to gain momentum in the United States but selling printers to Oak Ridge National Labatories.<br />
<br />
'''December 4'''; A discussion of the entrepreneurial spirit of DIY RepRap users (The Engineer). [http://www.theengineer.co.uk/in-depth/analysis/3d-printing-set-to-hit-the-mainstream/1014835.article]'' Summary: This article discussed how people are starting to become entrepreneurs in their homes and bedrooms and how the popularity of 3D printing is on the rise. The article also talks about Adrian Bowyer, the founder of RepRap, along with a united kingdom company that prints out designs made by young kids to popular designers. <br />
<br />
'''December 5'''; ''Exhibit – THR_33: Engineered to Endear, John Marshall'' [http://um3d.dc.umich.edu/2012/12/jmarshall/]<br />
Summary: John Marshall from the University of Michigan is using rapid prototyping, robotics and other sensors to make interactive art. He made a small house that has 3 different robots based off of a toaster, blender, and radio that interact with the viewer. The house also can sense when a viewer is near and open the windows. During this creation he created his own compound made from ABS plastic and acetone. His art was featured in the National Museum of Modern Art in Kyoto, Japan.<br />
<br />
'''December 6'''; ''Why 3D Printing Matters for "Made in the USA."'' (Jeremy Hsu, TechNewsDaily and LiveScience.) [http://www.livescience.com/25255-3d-printing-made-usa.html]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: The manufacturing capabilities of the United States have been declining for decades, but 3D printing might be able to reverse that trend. A government grant of $30 million created The National Additive Manufacturing Innovation Institute, which focuses on promoted the development of 3D printing. While this technology would not be suited to produce 10 million units of trash cans, it would be perfect for making 50 to 100 military aircraft.<br />
<br />
'''December 6'''; ''3D Printer Could Transform Moon Dirt Into Lunar Base'' (Megan Gannon, Space.com) [http://www.space.com/18694-moon-dirt-3d-printing-lunar-base.html]--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 22:01, 6 December 2012 (UTC)<br />
Summary: Researchers have developed a method of using simulated moon dust to create 3D printed objects. While the technology is still in rudimentary stages, this proof of concept experiment shows that lunar astronauts could replace broken tools or even create new structures using just the available materials. Considering the cost of transportation to the moon, this technology could create extensive cost savings and improve the feasibility of a long term moon base. Eventually, this technology could even by expanded to be used on Mars.<br />
<br />
'''December 6'''; Discussion of 3D printers being developed to print medical (and recreational) drugs (Beta Beat). [http://betabeat.com/2012/12/sorry-dealers-soon-well-get-all-our-drugs-from-this-new-3d-printer/]--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 22:03, 6 December 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
'''December 6'''; A 3D-printing popup store (3DEA) opens in NYC for the holidays. Attractions include a body scanner and ornament design competition [http://solidsmack.com/fabrication/3dea-3d-printing-pop-up-store-opens-in-nyc-for-the-holidays/]<br />
<br />
'''December 7'''; ''Manufacturing the future: 10 trends to come in 3D printing.'' (Eric Savitz, Forbes Magazine.) [http://www.forbes.com/sites/ciocentral/2012/12/07/manufacturing-the-future-10-trends-to-come-in-3d-printing/]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: This article predicts 10 uses of 3D printers for that will start becoming widespread next year. Some examples include 3D printing shops at the mall that will allow manufacturers to only ship designs and 3D printed medical implants that will help save lives. The bottom of this article also features slideshow gallery of ten cool things that can be printed, such as glasses frames and engagement rings. <br />
<br />
'''December 7'''; Harvard’s Semitic Museum Is Using 3D Printers To Restore An Ancient Statue [http://www.webpronews.com/harvards-semitic-museum-is-using-3d-printers-to-restore-an-ancient-statues-2012-12]--[[User:Wjf5042|Wjf5042]]<br />
<br />
'''December 8'''; ''Are personal 3D printers the next personal computers?''(Rob Enderle on Digital trends.com) [http://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/are-personal-3d-printers-the-next-personal-computers/]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]] Rob discusses the basics of 3-D printing, what some of the hopes and end goals of the industry are as well as arguing that 3-D printing is ready for a revolution. He also gives some guesses as to who will capitalize on these possibilities. <br />
<br />
'''December 10''' Wireless 3D printer "vending machine" can be controlled from iDevices or Android phones [http://hackaday.com/2012/12/10/an-automat-of-wireless-3d-printers/] Summary: Brian Benchoff writes on article about 3D printing shows in NYC to an amazing wall of 3D printers that are controlled from a mobile phone. At the end of the article a short video of the wall of printers can be seen in action creating an orchestra of 3D printing ingenuity. <br />
<br />
'''December 10''' The Plant of the Future: 3D Printing [http://www.manufacturing.net/articles/2012/12/the-plant-of-the-future-3d-printing]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] This article talks about how 3D printing could have a real place in manufacturing by the end of the decade.<br />
<br />
'''December 10'''; Staples Plans to Enter 3-D Printing Scene, Shapeways Keeps Calm [http://www.xconomy.com/new-york/2012/12/10/staples-plans-to-enter-3-d-printing-scene-shapeways-keeps-cool/]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] The office supply chain Staples plans to bring 3D printing to some of its overseas stores in the first quarter of 2013.<br />
<br />
'''December 10'''; '' Insdie The Worlds's Biggest Consumer 3D printing Factory'' (Andy Greenberg) [http://www.forbes.com/sites/andygreenberg/2012/12/10/inside-the-worlds-biggest-consumer-focused-3d-printing-factory/]--[[User:Steven Crump|Steven Crump]] Summary: Article written by Andy Greenber, memeber of Forbes staff, talks about Shapeways 3D printing setup. The slideshow at the end of the article has some amazing pictures including microprintng and a printed dress. Some really amazing prints.<br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; The Undetectable Firearms Act and 3D printed guns. [http://news.cnet.com/8301-11386_3-57558213-76/the-undetectable-firearms-act-and-3d-printed-guns-faq/]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] This article asks a great question; Is renewing the act really just a stealth attempt to regulate 3D printing?<br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; ''Homemade 3D-printed gifts (Travis Andrews in DVice)[http://dvice.com/archives/2012/12/15-3d-printed-g.php]'' Summary: A list of 15 gifts you can print out yourself including a large range of things as simple as chess sets and cookie cutters to more complicated ones such as an RC planes and working pencil sharpeners. A good look into the future of gift giving. <br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; Musings on the potential for 3D printers to be the next big thing in home electronics (Digital Trends). [http://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/are-personal-3d-printers-the-next-personal-computers/]<br />
[[Category:RUG, Pennsylvania, State College]]--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 20:06, 11 December 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; The Army is Deploying 3D Printers to Afghanistan [http://www.webpronews.com/the-army-deploys-3d-printers-to-afghanistan-2012-08]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] The army is setting up mobile labs in Afghanistan that will include CNC machines and 3D printers.<br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; A few weeks with a 3D printer[http://johnbiehler.com/2011/08/02/a-few-weeks-with-a-3d-printer-what-ive-learned/]--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 20:15, 11 December 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; Brand NEW Gyro Cube [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5Zx02qAacA&feature=plcp]--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 22:37, 11 December 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
'''December 12'''; 3D Printer Makes Medical Models (Video):[http://www.coloradotech.edu/Student-Life/CTU-Blog/December-2012/3D-Printer-Medical-Models]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] This article contains a cool video showing a 3D printer printing a model of a human heart. This helps to show that 3D printing can extend far beyond the engineering student or the hobbyist at home, 3D printers could have so many more applications than once thought<br />
<br />
'''December 12'''; What is True Colour 3D Printing? [http://www.mcortechnologies.com/what-is-true-colour-3d-printing/]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] A look at the technology to blend filament colors.<br />
<br />
'''December 12'''; '' 10 Cool Holiday Gifts You Can Make With Your 3D Printer '' (Victor Luckerson) [http://business.time.com/2012/12/12/10-cool-holiday-gifts-you-can-make-with-a-3-d-printer/slide/a-merry-makers-christmas/] --[[User:Steven Crump | Steven Crump]] Summary: If its close to the holidays or your still thinking of that last minute birthday gift, this article will give you some neat ideas for some funny and great inexpensive gifts. There are some great little gift ideas for events like secret Santa.<br />
<br />
'''December 13'''; '' MU Students Tinker with New 3D Printing Technology'' ( Amy Couch) [http://www.komu.com/news/mu-students-tinker-with-new-3d-printing-technology-38696/]--[[User:Steven Crump|Steven Crump]] Summary: Article written by Amy Couch talks about Missouri engineers 3D printing a chess piece and their 3D printing experiences.<br />
<br />
'''December 13'''; ''3D printing goes prime time as staples to offer 'easy 3D' service'' (David J. Hill, SingularityHub) [http://singularityhub.com/2012/12/13/3d-printing-goes-prime-time-staples-to-offer-easy-3d-service/]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: Staples is beginning to offer a 3D printing service to it's customers. The store will use Mcor's IRIS 3D printer to create a 3D model of a Cad file by extruding paper as a filament. The service will first be available in The Netherlands and Belgium, but will soon come to the U.S. This move is one more attempt to keep paper relevant and profitable in the digital age. <br />
<br />
'''December 13'''; '' 3D Printing Beats Rare Disease '' (Seth Colaner) [http://hothardware.com/News/3D-Printing-Enables-Toddler-To-Triumph-Over-Rare-Disease/] --[[User:Steven Crump | Steven Crump]] Summary: An amazing inspirational video that will give you goosebumps about 3D printing helping a young girl overcome her disease. This Video does a wonderful job demonstrating the usefulness of 3D printing and its vast versatility. <br />
<br />
'''December 15'''; ''A cheap way to print electronic devices '' (The economist) [http://www.economist.com/news/science-and-technology/21568360-cheap-way-print-electronic-devices-your-flexible-friend?fsrc=rss%7Csct]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: By combining soot and polyester, Dr. Simon Leigh has developed a filament that can conduct electricity. The special thing about this filament is that it's resistance changes under pressure. Some uses for this technology would be to measure the rehabilitation of stroke patients and remotely move a robotic arm by using a glove.<br />
<br />
'''December 15'''; ''3D-printed X-Cube is the hardest Rubik’s cube ever'' [[http://venturebeat.com/2012/12/15/3d-printed-x-cube-rubiks-cube-video/]]<br />
Summary: This new take on the 3x3x3 rubik's cube is arguably the most difficult rubik's cube yet!<br />
<br />
=2013=<br />
<br />
'''January 19'''; ''Filabot turns plastic waste into raw material for 3D printing'' (Duncan Geere, Wired)<br />
[http://www.wired.co.uk/news/archive/2013-01/19/filabot]<br />
Summary: An American college student named Tyler McNaney is developing a machine that recycles plastic household waste into the raw materials for use in 3D printing.<br />
<br />
'''February 19'''; ''3D-Printing Pen, The 3Doodler, Reaches Kickstarter Funding Goal In Hours" (John Biggs, TechCrunch)<br />
[http://techcrunch.com/2013/02/19/3d-printing-pen-the-3doodler-reaches-kickstarter-funding-goal-in-hours/] --[[User: Mbilyk | Michael Bilyk]]<br />
Summary: 3Doodler, a handheld 3D printing pen created by WobbleWorks, started a Kickstarter on February 19th and received seven times their asking amount within hours. The pen can be used to draw in three dimensions with ABS and PLA. The plastic melts and solidifies quick enough that lines can be drawn from the surface into the air.<br />
<br />
'''February 25'''; ''SCARA arm prints 3D parts''<br />
[http://hackaday.com/2013/02/25/scara-arm-finally-prints-plastic-parts/]<br />
Summary: The SCARA arm, a substantially different 3D printing design than the typical gantry arm setup, has recently succeeded in printing parts. The SCARA arm uses similar components, such as the control of the z-axis through two lead screws and the traditional stepper motors for the x and y axes, but the way the printer operates and its design is extremely unique and simple. Check out the video in the link to see for yourself!<br />
<br />
'''February 26'''; ''Nike's first-ever 3D-printed athletic cleat''<br />
[http://www.gizmag.com/nike-3d-printed-cleat/26403/]<br />
Summary: Nike is showing off a new cleat designed to help American football players excel in the all-important 40-yard dash. NFL scouts regard the dash as incredibly important, and Nike's new shoe is designed to help athletes decrease their times. What makes the Nike Vapor Laser Talon interesting is its 3D-printed cleat plate, which is a first for athletic cleats.<br />
<br />
'''March 5'''; ''Micro 3-D printer used to rapidly create tiny, complicated structures in seconds''<br />
[http://www.technologyreview.com/news/511856/micro-3-d-printer-creates-tiny-structures-in-seconds/]<br />
Summary: A tabletop 3-D microprinter has been developed by Nanoscribe, a spin-off of the Karlsruhe Institute of Technology in Germany, that can print complicated microstructures 100 times faster than currently possible. The size of the parts it creates is on the order of a few hundred nanometers, with the smallest features measuring about 30 nanometers. This printer has much potential in the commercial world, mostly in the electronics and medical fields, where the processes used to create microstructures is comparatively tedious and expensive.<br />
<br />
'''March 8'''; ''Venture into printable space rockets''<br />
[http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2416330,00.asp]<br />
Summary: An online competition deemed "The 3D Rocket Engine Design Challenge" was launched by DIYRockets and Sunglass in an attempt "to make space design open and collaborative." Additionally, the aim of the competition is to substantially decrease design costs while generating innovative technology for all types of space hardware and parts.<br />
<br />
'''April 4'''; ''Skyler Tibbits: The emergence of "4D printing"''<br />
[http://www.ted.com/talks/skylar_tibbits_the_emergence_of_4d_printing.html]<br />
Summary: This Ted talk describes the working being done by the Self-Assembly Lab at MIT. The goal of this lab is to use multiple materials to create 3D objects that will assembly themselves, with limited human interaction. For example, an object will go from a line to the structure of a molecule after adding water. This amazing technology is the future of construction and a necessary step in having printers that can truly replicate themselves. (David Blyton)<br />
<br />
'''April 5'''; ''3D printer produces synthetic tissue capable of transmitting signals like nerves''<br />
[http://www.theverge.com/2013/4/5/4187568/scientists-produce-synthetic-tissue-capable-of-transmitting-signals-like-nerves]<br />
Summary: Scientists have used a custom-made 3D printer to make a synthetic tissue that could have the ability to transmit long-distance electric signals much like nerves.<br />
<br />
'''April 11'''; ''3D printing and rapid prototyping to be worth $8.4 billion by 2025, says report''[http://www.caddedge.com/3d-printing-and-rapid-prototyping-news/]<br />
Summary: According to the Investors Business Daily the rapid prototyping marked could be worth $8.4 billion because of its increased use in the automotive, aerospace, and medical industries. Rapid prototyping is considered one of the largest contributors to the economic renaissance in the US and as prices of materials and printers continue to decrease they will be used more extensively with lower costs. In the future this has the potential to completely reshape manufacturing. <br />
<br />
'''April 16'''; ''Harvard kids use 3D printing to help the blind 'see' paintings''<br />
[http://venturebeat.com/2013/04/16/midas-touch-harvard-3d-printing-blind/]<br />
Summary: Students at Harvard are working on a new 3D printing project called "Midas Touch." The goal of this project is to help blind people see paintings. By using 3D printers to layer objects in a painting, the visually impaired will be able to use their sense of touch to see these works of art. (David Blyton)<br />
<br />
'''April 17'''; ''NASA experimenting with 3D printing for space exploration''<br />
[http://news.cnet.com/8301-11386_3-57579626-76/nasa-experimenting-with-3d-printing-for-space-exploration/]<br />
Summary: NASA scientists have begun looking into the advantages that are given by 3D printing. In NASA Ames, they have created a workshop with drill presses and 3D printers. The goal of this workshop is to be able to teach the aerospace engineers how to rapidly prototype different ideas in order to improve their designs. NASA has even begun funding a company to develop a 3D printer that can be used in space. (David Blyton)<br />
<br />
'''April 18'''; ''The 3D Printer Experience Brings Sci-Fi Technology to Chicago''<br />
[http://www.dnainfo.com/chicago/20130418/river-north/3d-printer-experience-brings-sci-fi-technology-chicago]<br />
Summary: A new store is opening up in Chicago next week that plans to get the general public more involved with 3D printers. The goal of the store is to demonstrate the many cool features of 3D printing technology, such as the ability to scan and print your own face. The store believes that if more people understand 3D printing and see it in action, they will be more likely to start their own projects and purchase prints from the store.(David Blyton)<br />
<br />
'''April 19'''; ''3D Printed Inspection Robot''<br />
[http://www.engineering.com/3DPrinting/3DPrintingArticles/ArticleID/5613/3D-Printed-Inspection-Robot.aspx]<br />
Summary: 3D printers and the open source movement are continuing to create innovations that reduce the cost of necessary technologies. Instead of using expensive robots to monitor power lines, Nick Morozvsky has created a way to cheaply make a device that serves the same function using only a 3D printer and off-the-shelf components. Innovation is far preferable to using brute force to solve engineering problems, and this solution could save power companies a significant amount of money. (David Blyton)<br />
<br />
'''April 19'''; ''Early 3D printing adopters could gain innovation advantage over rivals, says Gartner''<br />
[http://www.digitimes.com/news/a20130419PR200.html]<br />
Summary: Gartner, a technology research company, has released a report urging different industries to become more involved with 3D printing. Although most people are aware of the future potential of 3D printing, most do not realize that this potential can be utilized now. Companies need to start utilizing 3D printing technology, or else they will be left behind by their competitors. (David Blyton)</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/RepRap_Media_Timeline&diff=89564RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/RepRap Media Timeline2013-04-21T19:53:17Z<p>Djl5217: /* 2013 */</p>
<hr />
<div>This page is a summary of 3D printing stories in press/tv/etc with a focus on RepRap in particular, but with some inclusion of other similar technologies.<br />
<br />
Another good media timeline can be found here:[[http://reprap.org/wiki/MediaMain]] <br />
<br />
Changes to this current timeline will be made by focusing on media that directly relates to RepRaps or interesting extensions which are commercialized items, such as the chocolate 3D printer, and futuristic technologies. <br />
<br />
The media items indicated in "italics" signify the extensions made in the 3D printing industry, while the items in regular font will be related to RepRaps.<br />
<br />
Viewers will notice that the "2012" section has far more items than the other years. This is due to the fact that a majority of advancements took place during this year and concrete ideas began blooming as well. <br />
<br />
= 1980's =<br />
<br />
'''1984'''; Charles "Chuck" Hull develops a technology to print 3D objects using digital data and terms it "Stereolithography" [http://engineeronadisk.com/V2/notes_manufacturing/engineeronadisk-163.html]<br />
<br />
'''March 11, 1986'''; Chuck Hull founded 3D Systems and invents the first 3D printer [http://www.prsnlz.me/articles/3d-systems%E2%80%99-cube-3d-printer-receives-american-technology-award/photos.html]<br />
<br />
'''1987'''; Selective laser sintering is developed at the University of Texas-Austin and commercialized by DTM [http://www.crcnetbase.com/doi/abs/10.1201/9780203910795.ch11]<br />
<br />
'''1988'''; S. Scott Crump invents Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), which is the basis for 3D printing extrusion [http://rpworld.net/cms/index.php/additive-manufacturing/rp-rapid-prototyping/fdm-fused-deposition-modeling-.html]<br />
<br />
= 1990's =<br />
<br />
'''1993'''; MIT patents "Three Dimensional Printing Techniques" which is comparable to a regular 2D printer's methodology. [http://rtei.org/blog/2011/12/29/the-effect-of-university-monopoly-licensing-in-3d-printing/]<br />
<br />
'''1995'''; Z Corporation acquires a technology license from MIT and begins building 3D printers [http://www.zcorp.com/en/Company/At-a-Glance/spage.aspx]<br />
<br />
'''1996'''; The term "3D Printer" is first used to address rapid prototyping machines [http://www.3d-innovations.com/blog/?p=373]<br />
<br />
'''1996'''; First major release of 3D printers from Z Corp, Stratasys, and 3D Systems [http://buildatron.com/history-of-3d-printing]<br />
<br />
= 2004 =<br />
<br />
'''February'''; Adrian Bowyer publishes the idea for a self replicating 3D printer, and concept of the RepRap is born! More on the RepRap About Page [About]<br />
<br />
= 2005 =<br />
<br />
'''March 9th'''; Spectrum Z-510 is the first high definition 3D color printer to be manufactured [http://www.zcorp.com/en/Press-Room/Z-Corporation-Ships-Spectrum-Z51/news.aspx]<br />
<br />
'''March 23rd'''; The RepRap blog started [[http://blog.reprap.org/]] <br />
<br />
'''June 2nd'''; Reprap project discussed in "The Machine that can copy anything" by Simon Hooper on CNN.com [[http://edition.cnn.com/2005/TECH/06/02/tech.reprap/]]<br />
<br />
'''October 6th'''; Arduino is released [http://spectrum.ieee.org/geek-life/hands-on/the-making-of-arduino/0]<br />
<br />
= 2006 =<br />
<br />
'''February'''; 'Neil Gershenfeld on Fab Labs' a TED talk about a (much higher cost) mobile fabrication laboratory, and enabling consumers to produce products for a "market of one". [http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/eng/neil_gershenfeld_on_fab_labs.html] <br />
<br />
=2007=<br />
<br />
=2008=<br />
<br />
'''February 9'''; The Darwin printer is able to print more than half of its own parts, thus self-replication is successful [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_Project]<br />
<br />
'''June 4'''; The Telegraph releases a science article about self-replicating robots leading into the RepRap. Parts of the article discuss the possible implications and advantages of a low cost 3D printer that can replicate its own parts and evolve. [[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/science/science-news/3343522/Robot-that-can-build-itself-to-be-unveiled.html]]<br />
<br />
'''November'''; Thingiverse is launched, the first website where people can uplaoad their own 3D models for people to print out, open sourcing at its finest, what will you upload? [http://www.thingiverse.com/]<br />
<br />
=2009=<br />
<br />
'''October 2'''; A second generation design, known as "Mendel", prints its first part [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_Project]]<br />
<br />
=2010=<br />
'''April 30'''; 'The disruptive future of printing' an article by Bill Thompson of the BBC about RepRap and its future. [http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/10089419] <br />
<br />
'''November 10'''; 'It Will Be Awesome if They Don't Screw it Up: 3D Printing...' a whitepaper by Michael Weinberg of Public Knowledge discussing the legal implications of widespread 3D printing. [http://www.publicknowledge.org/it-will-be-awesome-if-they-dont-screw-it-up] <br />
<br />
'''December 20th'''; ''3d printing: The state of the art. (Ciara Byrne in VentureBeat) [http://venturebeat.com/2010/12/20/3d-printing-the-state-of-the-art/]''<br />
Summary: An article discussing the importance of the present technology, why usage of 3D printing has risen and what the future use of the technology could be including some inherent problem we'll have to deal with. The importance of this article lies in the clarity with which it presents some very basic ideas. The readability also allows for a wide variety of readers to appreciate the upcoming innovations.<br />
<br />
'''December 31st'''; ''11 3d printing predictions for the year 2011. (Joris Peels on TechCrunch) [http://techcrunch.com/2010/12/31/3d-printing-prediction/]'' Summary: Some extremely specific predictions and a few less specific ones having to do with well known names such as Makerbot, Adobe, Microsoft, Stratasys, Objet and a quite a few more. All predictions indicate a rather significant increase in popularity for 3D printing.<br />
<br />
=2011=<br />
'''January 12'''; 'The Wow Factor of 3-D Printing,' an article in the New York Times about consumer 3-D printers. It mentions Reprap, MakerBot, and Bits From Bytes. [http://www.nytimes.com/2011/01/13/technology/personaltech/13basics.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=reprap&st=cse] <br />
<br />
'''January 19th'''; ''3d printing now in Titanium! (Charlie Sorrel on Wired.com) [http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2011/01/3d-printing-now-in-titanium/]''<br />
Summary: The article discusses the advancements in 3D printing, specifically Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) to print with titanium. <br />
<br />
'''March 23'''; ''Handheld Vacuum Cleaner 3D Printed (Matthew Humphries on Geek.com [http://www.geek.com/articles/geek-cetera/print-your-very-own-handheld-vacuum-cleaner-20110323/]"<br />
Summary: This article on the surface is about the ability to print out your own Vacuum. The real message behind it are the possibilities of open source programming as well as Rep Rap printers. Matthew offers his opinion on the exciting development as he puts it.<br />
<br />
'''April'''; Copyright questions as 3d printing comes of age. [http://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/news/2011/04/the-next-napster-copyright-questions-as-3d-printing-comes-of-age.ars/3] <br />
<br />
'''June 8th'''; Bre Pettis, founder of Makerbot Industries, makes a guest appearance on the Colbert Report discussing the relevance of 3D printing in modern society [[http://www.colbertnation.com/the-colbert-report-videos/388966/june-08-2011/bre-pettis]] <br />
<br />
'''July 11th'''; ''Geekteach: 3D Printing In the Classroom (By Buzz Garwood on BYTE.com) [http://www.informationweek.com/byte/personal-tech/science-technology/geekteach-3d-printing-in-the-classroom/231001199]''<br />
Summary: This is an uplifting article from a 3D printer enthusiast. He is a teacher and has been exposing his students to the 3D printing concept and technology. He talks about some of the way he utilizes it in the class room as well as the a description of where 3D technology is today. He even tells a story of a fellow teacher who presents his students with design problems and uses a printer to fabricate their solutions. <br />
<br />
'''August 16th'''; ''Eric Savitz, a reporter for Forbes(R) recognizes the significance and potential that 3D printing offers to the world, as the cost goes down and the technology develops. [http://www.forbes.com/sites/ciocentral/2011/08/17/how-3d-printing-will-change-absolutely-everything-it-touches/]''<br />
<br />
'''August 23rd'''; Makerbot announces that they are accepting $10 million in startup money[[http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/08/23/all-star-lineup-invests-in-makerbot/]] <br />
<br />
'''Fall 2011'''; [[Open Hybrid Mendel]] Design is tested at Penn State University Park Campus. <br />
<br />
'''September 9'''; ''An excellent YouTube video highlighting the amazing capabilities of 3D printers (by Fun Theory)' [[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aghzpO_UZE]]'' <br />
<br />
'''September 16'''; ''BBC News article on a new application of 3D printing 'Artificial Blood Vessels Created on a 3D Printer' [[http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-14946808]]'' <br />
<br />
'''September 20'''; Article on the Make blog about a working AR-15 magazine on thingiverse. [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/proscribed-printables.html] <br />
<br />
'''September 20'''; ''Origo: A 3D Printer for kids (John Biggs in TechCrunch) [http://techcrunch.com/2011/09/20/origo-a-3d-printer-for-kids/]'' Summary: The purple printer uses a thin stream of plastic to create various objects. It should be the same size as 3 Xbox 360's and cost the same as 3 of them as well with an estimated price of about 800$. Origo is designed to have a minimum amount of moving parts and a simple UI using 3Dtin as a design platform. <br />
<br />
'''October 3rd'''; ''Albensi Labs use 3D printing for dental restoration making the turnaround time drop from 7 days to 2 days. [http://news.thomasnet.com/companystory/Albensi-Labs-Turnaround-Time-on-Dental-Restorations-Drops-from-Seven-Days-to-Just-Two-Days-Using-Objet-3D-Printing-603162#_normalStart]''<br />
<br />
'''November 14th'''; '' Joe McKendrick of smartplanet.com discusses how the Fayetteville Free Library of Fayetteville, NY announced its plans to incorperate a “hackerspace” into its public library this will allow a librayr to expand on what it means to be a library[http://www.smartplanet.com/blog/business-brains/3d-printing-coming-to-a-library-near-you/19964], this issue is also being explored on the collegiate level at the University of Nevada, Reno[http://www.engadget.com/2012/10/19/reshaping-universities-through-3d-printing/][http://acrl.ala.org/techconnect/?p=1403]'' <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Unknown'''; "Academic paper released investigating the effects of structure and orientation on the strength of 3D printed materials. [https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:YM4FYwGua1QJ:bib.irb.hr/datoteka/586658.Paper_KGK_Galeta-Raos-Somolanji.docx+3d+printer+orientation+strength&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESitsHarLN2UbBcjnKOoRUuEPseVemMp-v84dnntyG52_SaE43ADK4e4ZUSP7_uyfVZbmg_DHFHODzg1j1pOyekU2yZKtHMHTKSRBlG9WDWnY51GM40BVxkILUuQoLqJfC1iAhus&sig=AHIEtbTeBSLz0Bx2zvR2M9PsE_dLHVdTTg]<br />
<br />
'''Unknown''' ''Artist uses solar powered 3D printer to make glass objects http://www.markuskayser.com/work/solarsinter/''<br />
Summary: The machine focuses the sun into a dot that is so hot it sinters the sand layer by layer into objects like bowls.<br />
<br />
=2012=<br />
<br />
'''January 25'''; Physibles @ The Pirate Bay [https://thepiratebay.org/browse/605] <br />
<br />
'''February 6'''; ''Transplant jaw made by 3D printer claimed as first [http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-16907104]'' (for BBC) <br><br />
Summary: A lower jaw, created from 3D printed titanium powder heated and fused together with a laser. This jaw was fitted to an 83-year-old woman’s face, and is said to be the first patient-specific implant in the replacement of the entire lower jaw. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''March 6'''; The CADspan Plugin for Google SketchUp allows generation of solid, 3D printable STL files [http://www.cadspan.com/tools] (Cantos for CADspan) <br><br />
Summary: Describes the CADspan Plugin for SketchUp which eases the process of creating a model for 3D printing. Popular tools in SketchUp are listed and their functions are explained. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''March 10'''; ''3D printing from an Android device [http://hackaday.com/2012/03/10/3d-printing-from-an-android-device/]'' (Benchoff for Hack a Day) <br><br />
Summary: This article discusses an Android app, Makerdroid, which was designed to get South African students excited about technology and desktop fabrication labs. This app allows the user to create .STL files on an Android device and generate Gcode with Skeinforge in order to print 3D objects directly from their Android devices. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''April 9'''; ''The Delicious Future: 3D Chocolate Printer Finally Available for Purchase'' (Doug Aamoth, Time Tech) [http://techland.time.com/2012/04/09/the-delicious-future-3d-chocolate-printer-finally-available-for-purchase/]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: Although the technology to 3D print chocolate has existed for years, there has never been a commercial model until now. The machine costs about $4600, and can be used for more filament types than just chocolate. <br />
<br />
'''April 15'''; ''Integrated 3D-printed reactionware for chemical synthesis and analysis ''(Symes, Kitson, Yan, and others for Nature Chemistry)'' [http://www.nature.com/nchem/journal/v4/n5/full/nchem.1313.html]''<br />
<br />
Summary: 3D printing has the potential to transform science and technology by investigating its ability to print chemical reagents directly into a 3D reactionware matrix, greatly reducing the production and implementation cost of such systems by putting them under digital control. Further research needs to be done to make these processes cheap and accessible to modest laboratories, but there is potential.<br />
<br />
'''April 30'''; ''Behrokh Khoshnevis, Professor of Industrial & Systems Engineering and is the Director of Manufacturing Engineering Graduate Program at the University of Southern California (USC) brings the idea of 3D printing to automate the construction of buildings, maybe one day you can 3D print your own house [http://tedxtalks.ted.com/video/TEDxOjai-Behrokh-Khoshnevis-Con]''<br />
<br />
'''May 6'''; ''STEMulate Learning integrates 3D printing into classroom [http://www.3ders.org/articles/20120506-stemulate-learning-integrates-3d-printing-into-classroom.html]''<br />
<br />
'''May 21'''; ''Working Lathe Made with 3D Printing (Walters for Geek.com)[http://www.geek.com/articles/geek-pick/3d-printing-genius-creates-working-lathe-20120521/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: A 3D printing enthusiast set out to prove that useful items can be created by RepRaps by designing and printing all necessary parts required to construct a small, compact, working lathe. The device utilizes a drill motor and can be utilized to create items for everyday use. Check out the video on the article's website!<br />
<br />
'''June 15'''; ''Guitar manufacturing is revolutionized by 3D printing (Doesburg for theguardian) [http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology/2012/jun/15/3d-printing-revolutionising-guitar-making?newsfeed=true]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Olaf Diegel, a professor of mechatronics at Massey University in Auckland, New Zealand, has revolutionized the process of guitar manufacturing by developing a virtually indestructible nylon-bodied guitar that would make members of ''The Who'' cringe. Diegel can expect big things for 3D printing technology in the near future, predicting that entire buildings will be capable of printing within 5 or 6 years.<br />
<br />
'''July 2'''; ''Possibilities of printing dinosaur fossils [http://www.theverge.com/2012/7/2/3105916/3d-printing-dinosaur-fossils-drexel-lacovara]''<br />
<br />
'''July 4'''; ''Researchers create artificial liver from 3D printed sugar lattice (arkar for allvoices.com)[http://www.allvoices.com/contributed-news/12520676-researchers-create-artificial-liver-from-3d-printed-sugar-lattice]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Researchers from UPenn and MIT have developed the capability of combining sugar and 3D printing technology to amass an artificial liver. The printer extruded a sugar armature structure in which tissue and blood vessels were organized to promote proper blood circulation, then liver cells were introduced after the sugar lattice was dissolved using water. While these synthetic organs are not nearly large enough for human implantation, the study exhibitsa very inventive and potentially life-saving use for 3D printing technology.<br />
<br />
'''July 6'''; ''New Innovations in printing Aluminum [http://www.ecocomposites.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=10269%3Anew-additive-aluminium-composites&catid=3%3Anews-free&Itemid=2]''<br />
<br />
'''July 7'''; ''Burritobot: Mexican Cuisine and 3D Printing (Technabob for technabob.com) [http://technabob.com/blog/2012/07/07/burritob0t-3d-burrito-printer]''<br />
<br />
Summary: In the spirit of expanding the possibilities of 3D printing, Manro Manriquez has developed a design for the Burritob0t, which is a robotic printer/extruder that will output burritos. The idea was developed after "realizing the overlap between 3D printing (additive assembly and interchangeable ingredients) with burrito construction." The project plans to launch a Kickstarter program to fund its efforts, but the Big Picture is clear: the Burritob0t is just one of many efforts attempting to realize the possibilities of robotic food construction.<br />
<br />
'''July 11'''; ''Building Planes with Giant 3D Printers (Olson for Forbes) [http://www.forbes.com/sites/parmyolson/2012/07/11/airbus-explores-a-future-where-planes-are-built-with-giant-3d-printers/]<br />
<br />
Summary: Bastian Schaefer, a cabin engineer with Airbus, has been toying with the possibilities of 3D printing an entire airplane. As the largest 3D printers to date are the size of a modest dining room table, the plan is part of an almost 40 year endeavor in which smaller airplane parts would be printed now while entire planes should be extruded by 2050. Efforts are inspired by the possibility of manufacturing lighter simulated aircraft by cheaper means.<br />
<br />
'''July 12'''; The next generation RepRap prints PLA at tremendously high speeds [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buhjfMHRTnE]<br />
<br />
'''July 16'''; ''3D printed keys used to hack high security handcuffs (Greenburg for Forbes) [http://www.forbes.com/sites/andygreenberg/2012/07/16/hacker-opens-high-security-handcuffs-with-3d-printed-and-laser-cut-keys/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Think your personal belongings are secure? A German hacker known as "Ray" demonstrated to an audience at the Hackers of Planet Earth conference in New York that even high-security handcuffs are no match for the powers of 3D printers and a carefully designed, makeshift, plastic key. This development reveals the susceptibility of secure systems to the looming power of 3D printers and a little human ingenuity.<br />
<br />
'''July 17'''; ''3D Printers In The Library; Toward a FabLab in the Academic Library (Kurt and Colegrove for ACRL TechConnect Blog) [http://acrl.ala.org/techconnect/?p=1403]''<br />
<br />
Summary: The DeLaMare Science & Engineering Library at the University of Nevada, Reno has added two 3D printers, a 3D scanner, and supporting software available for general use to the school community. Thanks to professor Tod Colegrove, the University is one of the first to experiment with an open-lab 3D printing environment, investigating just how the school environment will benefit from the ability to rapidly prototype designs applicable to a range of majors and scientific disciplines.<br />
<br />
'''July 18'''; ''3D printing services being offered at universities for the first time [http://www.foxreno.com/news/news/local-education/unr-library-first-nation-offer-3d-printing-campusw/nPxzf/]''<br />
<br />
'''July 22'''; ''Printing out your own prescription meds [http://io9.com/5928050/3d-printing-technology-could-let-you-print-your-pharmaceuticals-at-home]<br />
<br />
Summary: Dr. Lee Cronin from the University of Glasgow has applied 3D printing to chemistry. By printing custom reaction vessels with polypropylene, he creates strong, yet chemically inert reactors other unit operations to create what could be called a small chemical plant. By using the correct reactants and 3D printed architecture, one could make their own drugs. Because all organic molecules are made almost entirely of carbon, oxygen, any hydrogen, it is throught that a few basic reactants and 3D printed equipment could provide all that is needed to have access to a wide variety of drugs.<br />
<br />
'''July 25'''; 3D printing market set to hit $3 billion by 2018 ''(Raby for SlashGear)''[http://www.slashgear.com/3d-printing-market-to-hit-3-billion-by-2018-23239870/]<br />
<br />
Summary: Global Industry Analysts projects that collectively, the business of 3D printing will reach $3 billion in profits by they year 2018, which is made possible by a number of factors: evolving the technology to enable printing of vastly different materials, driving down production costs to build more printers cheaply, etc. 3D printing is more than just a fad, but a flowering business venture!<br />
<br />
'''July 26'''; ''World's first 3D Printed Gun [http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/133514-the-worlds-first-3d-printed-gun]<br />
<br />
'''July 30'''; ''Printing Unammed Aerial Vehicles [http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2011/sep/21/printed-drones-southampton-university]''<br />
<br />
'''August 6'''; ''3D Printed Exoskeleton aids in Arm Usage [http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/08/03/wrex-3d-printed-exoskeleton-girl-move-arms_n_1739419.html] <br />
<br />
'''August 6'''; ''New machine prints stone using sand and binding agent [http://www.gizmag.com/stone-spray/23634/]''<br />
Summary: A new machine called Stone Spray uses an robotic arm like sprayer to build small structures from dirt and sand. A binder is added to the material to make it solidify. The noval thing about this arm design is that it can print from any angle, not just from the floor up. It can even print horizontally from a vertical wall. Future developments could result in a machine that can build retaining walls and bridges from materials found in the local environment. Data on the stones durability or the cost of the binder is unknown. <br />
<br />
'''August 8'''; ''Focus Feature's stop motion movie ParaNorman uses 3D printed facial parts to "push facial performance to new levels" [http://www.engadget.com/2012/08/08/paranorman-taps-3d-printing/]''<br />
<br />
'''August 17'''; ''US company wants to make 3D bio-ink printed meat for human consumption (Merco Press)'' [http://en.mercopress.com/2012/08/17/us-company-wants-to-make-3d-bio-ink-printed-meat-for-human-consumption] <br><br />
Summary: A US start-up company has a solution for people who want to eat meat, but don't want to harm animals either: 3D printed meat.<br />
<br />
'''August 29'''; ''NASA funds Tethers Unlimited Inc. to work on its SpiderFab orbital 3D printer (Cameron Naramore, 3D Printer) [http://www.3dprinter.net/nasa-spiderfab-3d-print-spacecraft-in-space]<br/><br />
Summary: NASA spends much of its money on base costs of bringing equiptment up into space. They are also limited in which object to bring because very fragile ones will not endure the g's during liftoff. However, the emerging technology 'SpiderFab' is a 3D printer which will operate in space to print objects out of the atmosphere. With SpiderFab, innovative, hightech equipment can be printed directly out of our atmosphere and no longer require special liftoff considerations.<br />
<br />
'''September 19'''; ''Software to Detect Stress in Objects Before Print (Zach Walton, WebProNews/Technology) [http://www.webpronews.com/purdue-university-professor-fixes-major-flaw-in-3d-printing-2012-09]<br/><br />
Summary: Many 3D printed parts have accurate exterior features but fall short when it comes to structural performance. Purdue University professor Bedrich Benes is working on a software which will find these stress concentration points and add material to reduce the likelyhood of failure. This program also can find areas of excess material and remove it to save money and time (i.e. hollowed figures with struts in lieu of a completely solid object). <br />
<br />
'''September 21'''; ''3D Print Wood with Laywood Filament [http://www.geek.com/articles/geek-cetera/laywood-filaments-lets-you-3d-print-with-wood-20120921/]'' (Walters for Geek.com) <br><br />
Summary: 3D printers don't just print plastic, they can apparently print a wood-like material called 'Laywood' which feels, smells, and looks like real wood. This material consists of 40% recycled wood, and a polymer binder. This material won't warp, it doesn't experience shrinkage, and it doesn't require a heated bed for production. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''September 27''';''3D Printer Form 1 Gets 6X Its $100K Funding Goal On Kickstarter… In One Day [http://techcrunch.com/2012/09/27/3d-printer-form-1-gets-6x-its-100k-funding-goal-on-kickstarter-in-one-day/]''<br />
<br />
'''October 1'''; ''3-D Printer Company Seizes Machine From Desktop Gunsmith [http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2012/10/3d-gun-blocked/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Cody Wilson, a second-year law student at the University of Texas at Austin, had his 3D printer seized upon revealing the news that he was planning on printing a pistol capable of firing a single shot. Wilson leads Wiki Weapon, a project that plans to make open-source blue prints for constructing 3D ptinted guns. Stratasys lent a Stratasys uPrint SE to Wiki Weapon; upon discovery of his plan to print a pistol without a gun manufacturers license, they cancelled the lease and seized the printer. Wilson argues that it is legal in the U.S. to manufacture a gun at home without a license if it is concealable on a person, although such a weapon is subject to review.<br />
<br />
'''October 3'''; ''Army researchers use cutting edge 3D printers [http://www.army.mil/article/88464/]''<br />
<br />
'''October 5'''; ''Seeing Is Believing, Disney Crafts 3D Printed Optics [http://www.engadget.com/2012/10/05/seeing-is-believing-disney-crafts-3d-printed-optics-video/]'' (Hearn for Engadget) <br><br />
Summary: A group of engineers from Disney are using 'printed optics' to create interactive objects using 3D printing. This technology uses the 3D model to guide the light from LEDs to potentially replace the use of LCD and LED screens in displaying information on smaller interactive devices. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''October 10'''; ''CNBC Reports on Various Entities utilizing Bio-3D printing [http://www.cnbc.com/id/49348354]''<br />
<br />
'''October 10'''; ''3D Printing (Additive Manufacturing) Is Turning the Impossible Into the Possible [http://www.huffingtonpost.com/daniel-burrus/3d-printing-additive-manu_b_1951777.html?utm_hp_ref=tw]'' (Burrus for The Blog) <br><br />
Summary: This article describes the process of 3D printing and its applications as of recently. In the future, it can be used to deliver products to customers as soon as they are manufactured; like shoes, dresses, parts for jet engines, or even human bones. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''October 18'''; ''New Patent Could Saddle 3D Printers With DRM ''(Marks for New Scientist)''[http://gizmodo.com/5952780/new-patent-could-saddle-3d-printers-with-drm]''<br />
<br />
Summary: US patent 8286236, granted to Intellectual Ventures of Bellvue, Washington, grants 3D printers the ability to read digital authenticity codes judging whether or not that printer has legal authority to print a digital part file. This sweeping patent leads to more controversy surrounding digital rights management (DRM).<br />
<br />
'''October 18'''; ''Spice Up Your 3-D Prints With Custom Plastics (Joseph Flaherty, WIRED) [http://www.wired.com/design/2012/10/custom-printer-plastics/]''<br/><br />
Summary: Although 3D printer plastics may seem like a boring topic to some, Faberdashery, a plastics company based in Somerset, England is trying to change that. By examining and perfecting each of their plastics' formulas, the company can provide RepRap machine owners with a precise product taylored to their specific needs including color, smell, and even the addition of sparkles.<br />
<br />
'''October 18'''; ''Guitar Printer Makes Functioning Instrument (Aaron Sankin for Huffington Post) [http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/10/18/guitar-printer_n_1982704.html]''<br/><br />
Summary: Combining a love of engineering and a passion for music, Olaf Diegel has created a business out of printing customized 3D guitars capable of producing rich sounds and excellent tonal ranges. Although skeptical at first, San Francisco-based designer Scott Summit agrees that even 3D printed ''accoustic'' guitars perform well and do not buckle under the stress of strings, etc.<br />
<br />
'''October 19'''; ''The Future of Higher Education: Reshaping Universities Through 3D Printing [http://www.engadget.com/2012/10/19/reshaping-universities-through-3d-printing/]''<br />
<br />
'''October 19'''; ''Formlabs FORM 1 high-resolution 3D printer [http://www.engadget.com/2012/10/19/formlabs-form-1-eyes-on/]''<br />
<br />
'''October 19'''; ''3D Printing comes to the Disney Universe: Your face Frozen in Carbonite'' (David J Hill, Singularity Hub) [http://singularityhub.com/2012/10/19/3d-printing-comes-to-the-disney-universe-your-face-frozen-in-carbonite/]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: Disney has began to use 3D printing technology to personalize objects. Girls can have small statues of Disney Princesses printed out featuring their own faces for about $100. Star Wars fans can have small models of themselves frozen in carbonite. This interesting use of 3D printing will not only bring in profits for Disney, but also serve to greatly promote 3D printing technology.<br />
<br />
'''October 22'''; ''3D Bio-Printing Proposed to Send Vaccines and Medicine Via Email (Debora MacKenzie for New Scientist) [http://www.newscientist.com/blogs/shortsharpscience/2012/10/craig-venter-email-vaccine.html]'' <br><br />
Summary: A man who sequenced the human genome using his own DNA, then made "synthetic life" by outfitting a gutted bacterium with homemade genes, says his next trick will be emailing biological molecules, using 3D biological printers. The move could revolutionise healthcare - and biological warfare.<br />
<br />
'''October 23'''; ''UVA Undergraduates Print 3D Plane [http://www.geek.com/articles/geek-cetera/3d-printed-aircraft-successfully-takes-flight-20121023/]''<br />
<br />
'''October 25'''; ''EFF Fights To Protect 3D Printers From Illegitimate Patents [http://www.webpronews.com/eff-fights-to-protect-3d-printers-from-illegitimate-patents-2012-10]''<br />
<br />
'''October 25''';''With ‘Safe Haven,’ Desktop Weaponeers Resume Work on 3D-Printed Guns [http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2012/10/wiki-weapon/] (Beckhusen for WIRED)'' <br><br />
Summary: A group's efforts to create a 3D printed pistol looks promising. Efforts were halted when the group's printer was taken away and now they are currently applying for a gun license. Companies have been contributing to the development by volunteering manufacturing space and providing support in the group's vision. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''October 30''';'' 3D printing- a new industrial revolution [http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-20137791]''<br />
<br />
'''November 2''';'' Wired CEO Chris Anderson leaves Wired to start 3D Robotics company [http://www.wired.com/about/2012/11/wired-editor-in-chief-chris-anderson-steps-down/?cid=co4402984]--[[User:dwj131|dwj131]]<br />
<br />
'''November 4'''; ''Turning your thoughts into actual 3D objects [http://www.3ders.org/articles/20121104-turning-your-thoughts-into-actual-3d-objects.html]''<br />
<br />
'''November 9'''; 3D-Printed Rockets Help Propel NASA's Space Shuttle Launch (Philippa Warr for Wired) [http://www.wired.com/design/2012/11/3d-printed-nasa-rockets/]'' <br><br />
Summary: Parts for the rocket engines of NASA’s Space Launch System will be created using a method of 3D-printing known as selective laser melting.<br />
<br />
'''November 9'''; Researchers at Purdue develop a program to automatically tweak designs for 3D printed parts to improve strength ''(Matus for inhabitat.com)''[http://inhabitat.com/3d-printing-gets-a-boost-in-structural-strength-thanks-to-a-new-sofware-application/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Researchers at Purdue University have developed computer software that recognizes structural flaws in 3D models and adds supporting material before the objects are printed, greatly increasing the structural integrity of these 3D printed materials.<br />
<br />
'''November 11'''; Next Generation 3D Printing: Highter Resolution, Tastier, and Super Cute [http://www.wired.com/design/2012/05/next-generation-3-d-printing/?utm_source=Contextly&utm_medium=RelatedLinks&utm_campaign=Previous]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
<br />
'''November 12'''; Portable 3D Printer for the Military (David Meyer, ZDNet)[http://www.zdnet.com/us-military-working-on-backpack-sized-440-3d-printer-7000007257/]<br/><br />
Summary: U.S. Military has developed a new, inexpensive, portable 3D printer capable of printing spare parts in the field. 1/4 the cost of the MakerBot Replicator 2, these new machines are small and can even fit in a backpack, extremely useful for spare parts if needed during a warfight.<br />
<br />
'''November 12'''; 3D-Printing Photo Booth Makes You Into an Action Figure[http://www.wired.com/design/2012/11/3d-printing-photobooth/]'' [http://www.gizmag.com/3d-printing-rockets-nasa-sls/24909/](Warr for WIRED) <br><br />
Summary: A photo booth in Japan will scan your body and create a figurine of you. It can be a maximum of 8 inches tall and doesn't have the precision yet to pick up on shiny jewelry, earrings, mesh items, or glasses. Customers must pose for about 15 minutes for the machine to collect their body data. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''November 12'''; Scientists reveal new insights on nano 3D printing[http://www.rdmag.com/news/2012/11/scientists-reveal-new-insights-nano-3d-printing]''<br />
<br />
'''November 12'''; Voxeljet 3D printer used to produce Skyfall's Aston Martin stunt double ''(Hearn for engadget)''[http://www.engadget.com/2012/11/12/voxeljet-3d-printer-skyfalls-aston-martin-stunt-double/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Do you love James Bond? The filmmakers of the latest Bond movie, ''Skyfall,'' tasked 3D printing company Voxeljet with sculpting 1:3 scale stunt doubles of James' latest whip, the Aston Martin DB5. Luckily, no real vehicles were harmed in the making of the film, but these 18-piece scale models were. Check out the photos within the article!<br />
<br />
'''November 14'''; Minecraft Creations Become Real! [http://multiplayerblog.mtv.com/2012/11/14/figureprints-minecraft-3d-printing/]''<br />
<br />
'''November 19'''; 3D Printer Powered by Heart Cells ''(Walton on WebProNews)''[http://www.webpronews.com/this-3d-printed-bio-bot-uses-rat-heart-cells-to-move-2012-11]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Researchers at The University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign have developed a mobile 3D printed robot powered by rat heart cells. They hope that one day, these robots can be used to detect and/or neutralize specific chemical and toxins found in our environment.<br />
<br />
'''November 21'''; 3D Systems sues Formlabs and Kickstater for patent infringement and promotion respectively ''(Dillet for TechCrunch)''[http://techcrunch.com/2012/11/21/3d-systems-sues-3d-printer-company-formlabs-for-patent-infringement-and-kickstarter-for-promotion/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Thanks to the stereolithography printing technique, Formlabs and Kickstarer have joined forces to create the Form 1, a low-cost 3D printer capable of professional grade printing built into a hobbyist size and budget. Unfortunately, ''3D systems'' has held a patent on stereolithography techniques since 1997 and is demanding reparations by legal means.<br />
<br />
'''November 22'''; Scientists develop 3D tissue printer that prints cartilage[http://www.thestar.com/living/health/article/1291531--scientists-develop-3d-tissue-printer-that-prints-cartilage] (Star Staff for The Star)--[[User:dwj131|dwj131]] <br><br />
Summary: A 3D tissue printer was developed by scientists at Wake Forest University, which uses a traditional inkjet printer combined with an electrospinning machine. This was a proof of concept study which was successfully tested on mice with cartilage cells from a rabbit's ear. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''November 23'''; EDSGN 497D is Mentioned in an Article in Onward State[http://onwardstate.com/community/power-to-the-people-mass-manufacturing-for-the-masses-takes-off-with-edsgn-497d/]'' (Sami for Onward State) <br> <br />
Summary: Penn State’s EDSGN 497D course was featured on Onward State’s website. The article describes the open source RepRap technology, as well as the course structure in order to inform the surrounding community. -[[User:kwc5097|kwc5097]]<br />
<br />
'''November 24'''; GE Is So Stoked About 3D Printing, They're Using It To Make Parts For Jet Engines[http://www.businessinsider.com/ge-buys-3d-printing-company-to-make-parts-for-jet-engines-2012-11]''<br />
<br />
'''November 26'''; 3D printers to print out electronics in the near future ''(Mathur for thinkdigit.com)''[http://www.thinkdigit.com/General/3D-printers-to-print-out-electronics-cheaply_11499.html]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Researchers at the University of Warwick have developed a simple and inexpensive conductive plastic composite with 3D printing applications. This material can allow the printing of electronic tracks and sensors directly into 3D printed objects, opening doors for 3D printers to print electronics sometime in the near future. <br />
<br />
'''November 26'''; Fancy 3D printer spits out 'replacement parts' for humans ''(Lourens for gearburn.com)''[http://gearburn.com/2012/11/fancy-3d-printer-spits-outs-replacement-parts-for-humans/]''<br />
<br />
Summary: As scientists at the Wake Forest Institute for Regenerative Medicine have created cartilage using 3D printers capable for human transplants (see article here: [http://www.thestar.com/living/health/article/1291531--scientists-develop-3d-tissue-printer-that-prints-cartilage]), Lourens discusses his views on why 3D printing technology will 'disrupt the world in 2013.' <br />
<br />
'''November 26'''; 3D Printing Satellites ''(Kaurfman for TechNewsDaily)''[http://news.yahoo.com/3d-printing-low-cost-satellite-234108323.html]''<br />
<br />
Summary: Scientists have developed a space-ready, 3D printed CubeSat in seeking a low-cost way to launch their experiments into space. All but the satellite's sensors and computer chips were 3D printed in the laboratory. Development of these satellites can be revolutionized by 3D printing, as the process can be almost fully automated. Want to learn more about CubeSats? Check out the article!<br />
<br />
'''November 27'''; Customized Toy Records [http://www.pocket-lint.com/news/48557/fisher-price-3d-printed-records]''<br />
<br />
'''November 27'''; Get a 3-d print of your unborn child [http://news.discovery.com/tech/3d-printer-fetus-fasotec-120808.html]''<br />
<br />
'''November 28'''; Virginia Tech: Interactive 3-D printing station [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1MhNlGi-5I&feature=youtu.be]<br />
--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 16:45, 28 November 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
'''November 29'''; ''Staples to offer 'Easy 3D' printing service (Sharif Sakr in engadget) [http://www.engadget.com/2012/11/29/staples-easy-3d-printing-service/]'' Summary: The service, first starting in Belgium and the Netherlands, will eventually expand to all Staples stores. You'll be able to upload your file and then have it printed as fragments of paper arranged in 0.1mm layers up to a maximum height of six inches.<br />
<br />
'''November 29'''; ''3D printers could use Moon or Mars rocks as raw materials (BBC) [http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-20542496]''<br />
Summary: The article discusses the possibilities of using Moon rocks to create tools or spare parts. Prof Amit Bandyopadhyay is quoted backing the possibility and he is supported by David Woods (author of How Apollo Flew). Prof Colin Pillinger offers quotes claiming that it is a nice theory however not all that practical or worth it.<br />
<br />
'''December 3'''; ''3-D Printed Gun Only Lasts 6 Shots (Robert Beckhusen in Wired) [http://www.wired.com/dangerroom/2012/12/weaponeers/] and (Andy Greenberg in Forbes) [http://www.forbes.com/sites/andygreenberg/2012/12/03/heres-what-it-looks-like-to-fire-a-partly-3d-printed-gun-video/]'' <br />
Summary: Only one part, the lower receiver, was printed out in the gun. This is a very important part since it is heavily regulated and carries the serial number of the weapon. It was expected to break, but in something closer to 20 rather than only 6 shots. <br />
<br />
'''December 3'''; ''Merger Creates World's Largest 3-D Print Company'' (Daniel Ferry, The Motley Fool.) [http://seekingalpha.com/article/1040891-is-there-an-undervalued-3d-printer-manufacturer-yes-arcam-ab]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]] <br />
Summary: Two of the three biggest 3D printing companies, Stratasys and Objet, have merged to create the world's biggest 3D printing company. The new $3 billion company will face difficulties in integrating the separate companies, but the potential benefits of combining resources far outweigh the risks. The company will still be named Stratasys, and Stratasys shareholders control 55% while Objet controls 45%.<br />
<br />
'''December 3'''; ''Arcam AB is an undervalued 3D printer manufacturer'' (David Allen, Seeking Alpha) [http://www.fool.com/investing/general/2012/12/03/merger-creates-worlds-largest-3d-print-company.aspx]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: While Arcam AB may not have as many sales as 3D Systems or Stratasys, it does have a much high return on equity while maintaining a strong profit margin. Arcam AB focuses on working with expensive metals like Titanium and Cobalt Chromium, where the reduced waste of additive manufacturing leads to significant profits. The Swedish company is begin to gain momentum in the United States but selling printers to Oak Ridge National Labatories.<br />
<br />
'''December 4'''; A discussion of the entrepreneurial spirit of DIY RepRap users (The Engineer). [http://www.theengineer.co.uk/in-depth/analysis/3d-printing-set-to-hit-the-mainstream/1014835.article]'' Summary: This article discussed how people are starting to become entrepreneurs in their homes and bedrooms and how the popularity of 3D printing is on the rise. The article also talks about Adrian Bowyer, the founder of RepRap, along with a united kingdom company that prints out designs made by young kids to popular designers. <br />
<br />
'''December 6'''; ''Why 3D Printing Matters for "Made in the USA."'' (Jeremy Hsu, TechNewsDaily and LiveScience.) [http://www.livescience.com/25255-3d-printing-made-usa.html]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: The manufacturing capabilities of the United States have been declining for decades, but 3D printing might be able to reverse that trend. A government grant of $30 million created The National Additive Manufacturing Innovation Institute, which focuses on promoted the development of 3D printing. While this technology would not be suited to produce 10 million units of trash cans, it would be perfect for making 50 to 100 military aircraft.<br />
<br />
'''December 6'''; ''3D Printer Could Transform Moon Dirt Into Lunar Base'' (Megan Gannon, Space.com) [http://www.space.com/18694-moon-dirt-3d-printing-lunar-base.html]--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 22:01, 6 December 2012 (UTC)<br />
Summary: Researchers have developed a method of using simulated moon dust to create 3D printed objects. While the technology is still in rudimentary stages, this proof of concept experiment shows that lunar astronauts could replace broken tools or even create new structures using just the available materials. Considering the cost of transportation to the moon, this technology could create extensive cost savings and improve the feasibility of a long term moon base. Eventually, this technology could even by expanded to be used on Mars.<br />
<br />
'''December 6'''; Discussion of 3D printers being developed to print medical (and recreational) drugs (Beta Beat). [http://betabeat.com/2012/12/sorry-dealers-soon-well-get-all-our-drugs-from-this-new-3d-printer/]--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 22:03, 6 December 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
'''December 6'''; A 3D-printing popup store (3DEA) opens in NYC for the holidays. Attractions include a body scanner and ornament design competition [http://solidsmack.com/fabrication/3dea-3d-printing-pop-up-store-opens-in-nyc-for-the-holidays/]<br />
<br />
'''December 7'''; ''Manufacturing the future: 10 trends to come in 3D printing.'' (Eric Savitz, Forbes Magazine.) [http://www.forbes.com/sites/ciocentral/2012/12/07/manufacturing-the-future-10-trends-to-come-in-3d-printing/]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: This article predicts 10 uses of 3D printers for that will start becoming widespread next year. Some examples include 3D printing shops at the mall that will allow manufacturers to only ship designs and 3D printed medical implants that will help save lives. The bottom of this article also features slideshow gallery of ten cool things that can be printed, such as glasses frames and engagement rings. <br />
<br />
'''December 7'''; Harvard’s Semitic Museum Is Using 3D Printers To Restore An Ancient Statue [http://www.webpronews.com/harvards-semitic-museum-is-using-3d-printers-to-restore-an-ancient-statues-2012-12]--[[User:Wjf5042|Wjf5042]]<br />
<br />
'''December 8'''; ''Are personal 3D printers the next personal computers?''(Rob Enderle on Digital trends.com) [http://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/are-personal-3d-printers-the-next-personal-computers/]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]] Rob discusses the basics of 3-D printing, what some of the hopes and end goals of the industry are as well as arguing that 3-D printing is ready for a revolution. He also gives some guesses as to who will capitalize on these possibilities. <br />
<br />
'''December 10''' Wireless 3D printer "vending machine" can be controlled from iDevices or Android phones [http://hackaday.com/2012/12/10/an-automat-of-wireless-3d-printers/] Summary: Brian Benchoff writes on article about 3D printing shows in NYC to an amazing wall of 3D printers that are controlled from a mobile phone. At the end of the article a short video of the wall of printers can be seen in action creating an orchestra of 3D printing ingenuity. <br />
<br />
'''December 10''' The Plant of the Future: 3D Printing [http://www.manufacturing.net/articles/2012/12/the-plant-of-the-future-3d-printing]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] This article talks about how 3D printing could have a real place in manufacturing by the end of the decade.<br />
<br />
'''December 10'''; Staples Plans to Enter 3-D Printing Scene, Shapeways Keeps Calm [http://www.xconomy.com/new-york/2012/12/10/staples-plans-to-enter-3-d-printing-scene-shapeways-keeps-cool/]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] The office supply chain Staples plans to bring 3D printing to some of its overseas stores in the first quarter of 2013.<br />
<br />
'''December 10'''; '' Insdie The Worlds's Biggest Consumer 3D printing Factory'' (Andy Greenberg) [http://www.forbes.com/sites/andygreenberg/2012/12/10/inside-the-worlds-biggest-consumer-focused-3d-printing-factory/]--[[User:Steven Crump|Steven Crump]] Summary: Article written by Andy Greenber, memeber of Forbes staff, talks about Shapeways 3D printing setup. The slideshow at the end of the article has some amazing pictures including microprintng and a printed dress. Some really amazing prints.<br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; The Undetectable Firearms Act and 3D printed guns. [http://news.cnet.com/8301-11386_3-57558213-76/the-undetectable-firearms-act-and-3d-printed-guns-faq/]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] This article asks a great question; Is renewing the act really just a stealth attempt to regulate 3D printing?<br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; ''Homemade 3D-printed gifts (Travis Andrews in DVice)[http://dvice.com/archives/2012/12/15-3d-printed-g.php]'' Summary: A list of 15 gifts you can print out yourself including a large range of things as simple as chess sets and cookie cutters to more complicated ones such as an RC planes and working pencil sharpeners. A good look into the future of gift giving. <br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; Musings on the potential for 3D printers to be the next big thing in home electronics (Digital Trends). [http://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/are-personal-3d-printers-the-next-personal-computers/]<br />
[[Category:RUG, Pennsylvania, State College]]--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 20:06, 11 December 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; The Army is Deploying 3D Printers to Afghanistan [http://www.webpronews.com/the-army-deploys-3d-printers-to-afghanistan-2012-08]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] The army is setting up mobile labs in Afghanistan that will include CNC machines and 3D printers.<br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; A few weeks with a 3D printer[http://johnbiehler.com/2011/08/02/a-few-weeks-with-a-3d-printer-what-ive-learned/]--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 20:15, 11 December 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
'''December 11'''; Brand NEW Gyro Cube [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5Zx02qAacA&feature=plcp]--[[User:Nop5031|Nop5031]] 22:37, 11 December 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
'''December 12'''; 3D Printer Makes Medical Models (Video):[http://www.coloradotech.edu/Student-Life/CTU-Blog/December-2012/3D-Printer-Medical-Models]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] This article contains a cool video showing a 3D printer printing a model of a human heart. This helps to show that 3D printing can extend far beyond the engineering student or the hobbyist at home, 3D printers could have so many more applications than once thought<br />
<br />
'''December 12'''; What is True Colour 3D Printing? [http://www.mcortechnologies.com/what-is-true-colour-3d-printing/]--[[User:snb5148|snb5148]] A look at the technology to blend filament colors.<br />
<br />
'''December 12'''; '' 10 Cool Holiday Gifts You Can Make With Your 3D Printer '' (Victor Luckerson) [http://business.time.com/2012/12/12/10-cool-holiday-gifts-you-can-make-with-a-3-d-printer/slide/a-merry-makers-christmas/] --[[User:Steven Crump | Steven Crump]] Summary: If its close to the holidays or your still thinking of that last minute birthday gift, this article will give you some neat ideas for some funny and great inexpensive gifts. There are some great little gift ideas for events like secret Santa.<br />
<br />
'''December 13'''; '' MU Students Tinker with New 3D Printing Technology'' ( Amy Couch) [http://www.komu.com/news/mu-students-tinker-with-new-3d-printing-technology-38696/]--[[User:Steven Crump|Steven Crump]] Summary: Article written by Amy Couch talks about Missouri engineers 3D printing a chess piece and their 3D printing experiences.<br />
<br />
'''December 13'''; ''3D printing goes prime time as staples to offer 'easy 3D' service'' (David J. Hill, SingularityHub) [http://singularityhub.com/2012/12/13/3d-printing-goes-prime-time-staples-to-offer-easy-3d-service/]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: Staples is beginning to offer a 3D printing service to it's customers. The store will use Mcor's IRIS 3D printer to create a 3D model of a Cad file by extruding paper as a filament. The service will first be available in The Netherlands and Belgium, but will soon come to the U.S. This move is one more attempt to keep paper relevant and profitable in the digital age. <br />
<br />
'''December 13'''; '' 3D Printing Beats Rare Disease '' (Seth Colaner) [http://hothardware.com/News/3D-Printing-Enables-Toddler-To-Triumph-Over-Rare-Disease/] --[[User:Steven Crump | Steven Crump]] Summary: An amazing inspirational video that will give you goosebumps about 3D printing helping a young girl overcome her disease. This Video does a wonderful job demonstrating the usefulness of 3D printing and its vast versatility. <br />
<br />
'''December 15'''; ''A cheap way to print electronic devices '' (The economist) [http://www.economist.com/news/science-and-technology/21568360-cheap-way-print-electronic-devices-your-flexible-friend?fsrc=rss%7Csct]--[[User:djb5469|djb5469]]<br />
Summary: By combining soot and polyester, Dr. Simon Leigh has developed a filament that can conduct electricity. The special thing about this filament is that it's resistance changes under pressure. Some uses for this technology would be to measure the rehabilitation of stroke patients and remotely move a robotic arm by using a glove.<br />
<br />
'''December 15'''; ''3D-printed X-Cube is the hardest Rubik’s cube ever'' [[http://venturebeat.com/2012/12/15/3d-printed-x-cube-rubiks-cube-video/]]<br />
Summary: This new take on the 3x3x3 rubik's cube is arguably the most difficult rubik's cube yet!<br />
<br />
=2013=<br />
<br />
'''January 19'''; ''Filabot turns plastic waste into raw material for 3D printing'' (Duncan Geere, Wired)<br />
[http://www.wired.co.uk/news/archive/2013-01/19/filabot]<br />
Summary: An American college student named Tyler McNaney is developing a machine that recycles plastic household waste into the raw materials for use in 3D printing.<br />
<br />
'''February 19'''; ''3D-Printing Pen, The 3Doodler, Reaches Kickstarter Funding Goal In Hours" (John Biggs, TechCrunch)<br />
[http://techcrunch.com/2013/02/19/3d-printing-pen-the-3doodler-reaches-kickstarter-funding-goal-in-hours/] --[[User: Mbilyk | Michael Bilyk]]<br />
Summary: 3Doodler, a handheld 3D printing pen created by WobbleWorks, started a Kickstarter on February 19th and received seven times their asking amount within hours. The pen can be used to draw in three dimensions with ABS and PLA. The plastic melts and solidifies quick enough that lines can be drawn from the surface into the air.<br />
<br />
'''February 25'''; ''SCARA arm prints 3D parts''<br />
[http://hackaday.com/2013/02/25/scara-arm-finally-prints-plastic-parts/]<br />
Summary: The SCARA arm, a substantially different 3D printing design than the typical gantry arm setup, has recently succeeded in printing parts. The SCARA arm uses similar components, such as the control of the z-axis through two lead screws and the traditional stepper motors for the x and y axes, but the way the printer operates and its design is extremely unique and simple. Check out the video in the link to see for yourself!<br />
<br />
'''February 26'''; ''Nike's first-ever 3D-printed athletic cleat''<br />
[http://www.gizmag.com/nike-3d-printed-cleat/26403/]<br />
Summary: Nike is showing off a new cleat designed to help American football players excel in the all-important 40-yard dash. NFL scouts regard the dash as incredibly important, and Nike's new shoe is designed to help athletes decrease their times. What makes the Nike Vapor Laser Talon interesting is its 3D-printed cleat plate, which is a first for athletic cleats.<br />
<br />
'''March 5'''; ''Micro 3-D printer used to rapidly create tiny, complicated structures in seconds''<br />
[http://www.technologyreview.com/news/511856/micro-3-d-printer-creates-tiny-structures-in-seconds/]<br />
Summary: A tabletop 3-D microprinter has been developed by Nanoscribe, a spin-off of the Karlsruhe Institute of Technology in Germany, that can print complicated microstructures 100 times faster than currently possible. The size of the parts it creates is on the order of a few hundred nanometers, with the smallest features measuring about 30 nanometers. This printer has much potential in the commercial world, mostly in the electronics and medical fields, where the processes used to create microstructures is comparatively tedious and expensive.<br />
<br />
'''March 8'''; ''Venture into printable space rockets''<br />
[http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2416330,00.asp]<br />
Summary: An online competition deemed "The 3D Rocket Engine Design Challenge" was launched by DIYRockets and Sunglass in an attempt "to make space design open and collaborative." Additionally, the aim of the competition is to substantially decrease design costs while generating innovative technology for all types of space hardware and parts.<br />
<br />
'''April 4'''; ''Skyler Tibbits: The emergence of "4D printing"''<br />
[http://www.ted.com/talks/skylar_tibbits_the_emergence_of_4d_printing.html]<br />
Summary: This Ted talk describes the working being done by the Self-Assembly Lab at MIT. The goal of this lab is to use multiple materials to create 3D objects that will assembly themselves, with limited human interaction. For example, an object will go from a line to the structure of a molecule after adding water. This amazing technology is the future of construction and a necessary step in having printers that can truly replicate themselves. (David Blyton)<br />
<br />
'''April 5'''; ''3D printer produces synthetic tissue capable of transmitting signals like nerves''<br />
[http://www.theverge.com/2013/4/5/4187568/scientists-produce-synthetic-tissue-capable-of-transmitting-signals-like-nerves]<br />
Summary: Scientists have used a custom-made 3D printer to make a synthetic tissue that could have the ability to transmit long-distance electric signals much like nerves.<br />
<br />
'''April 11'''; ''3D printing and rapid prototyping to be worth $8.4 billion by 2025, says report''[http://www.caddedge.com/3d-printing-and-rapid-prototyping-news/]<br />
Summary: According to the Investors Business Daily the rapid prototyping marked could be worth $8.4 billion because of its increased use in the automotive, aerospace, and medical industries. Rapid prototyping is considered one of the largest contributors to the economic renaissance in the US and as prices of materials and printers continue to decrease they will be used more extensively with lower costs. In the future this has the potential to completely reshape manufacturing. <br />
<br />
'''April 16'''; ''Harvard kids use 3D printing to help the blind 'see' paintings''<br />
[http://venturebeat.com/2013/04/16/midas-touch-harvard-3d-printing-blind/]<br />
Summary: Students at Harvard are working on a new 3D printing project called "Midas Touch." The goal of this project is to help blind people see paintings. By using 3D printers to layer objects in a painting, the visually impaired will be able to use their sense of touch to see these works of art. (David Blyton)<br />
<br />
'''April 17'''; ''NASA experimenting with 3D printing for space exploration''<br />
[http://news.cnet.com/8301-11386_3-57579626-76/nasa-experimenting-with-3d-printing-for-space-exploration/]<br />
Summary: NASA scientists have begun looking into the advantages that are given by 3D printing. In NASA Ames, they have created a workshop with drill presses and 3D printers. The goal of this workshop is to be able to teach the aerospace engineers how to rapidly prototype different ideas in order to improve their designs. NASA has even begun funding a company to develop a 3D printer that can be used in space. (David Blyton)<br />
<br />
'''April 18'''; ''The 3D Printer Experience Brings Sci-Fi Technology to Chicago''<br />
[http://www.dnainfo.com/chicago/20130418/river-north/3d-printer-experience-brings-sci-fi-technology-chicago]<br />
Summary: A new store is opening up in Chicago next week that plans to get the general public more involved with 3D printers. The goal of the store is to demonstrate the many cool features of 3D printing technology, such as the ability to scan and print your own face. The store believes that if more people understand 3D printing and see it in action, they will be more likely to start their own projects and purchase prints from the store.(David Blyton)<br />
<br />
'''April 19'''; ''3D Printed Inspection Robot''<br />
[http://www.engineering.com/3DPrinting/3DPrintingArticles/ArticleID/5613/3D-Printed-Inspection-Robot.aspx]<br />
Summary: 3D printers and the open source movement are continuing to create innovations that reduce the cost of necessary technologies. Instead of using expensive robots to monitor power lines, Nick Morozvsky has created a way to cheaply make a device that serves the same function using only a 3D printer and off-the-shelf components. Innovation is far preferable to using brute force to solve engineering problems, and this solution could save power companies a significant amount of money. (David Blyton)<br />
<br />
'''April 19'''; ''Early 3D printing adopters could gain innovation advantage over rivals, says Gartner''<br />
[http://www.digitimes.com/news/a20130419PR200.html]<br />
Summary: Gartner, a technology research company, has released a report urging different industries to become more involved with 3D printing. Although most people are aware of the future potential of 3D printing, most do not realize that this potential can be utilized now. Companies need to start utilizing 3D printing technology, or else they will be left behind by their competitors. (David Blyton)</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User:Djl5217&diff=89346User:Djl52172013-04-19T21:50:45Z<p>Djl5217: /* Blog 13 */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Blog 13 ==<br />
<br />
The thing I would have liked to spend more time on is 3D scanning and then printing the parts. We read the article about the new program that AUTOCAD has from blog 9. http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130326-autodesk-announces-recap-create-3d-data-from-photos-and-scans.html. Since this would be free to students it would be interesting to have everyone take pictures of an object and recreate it.<br />
<br />
I think the best way to evolve this class would be to use the printers for prototyping. They are called rapid prototypers but all that we have done in this class is replicate or print little trinkets for other classes. It would be interesting to try to partner with a junior design course (ME 340) or other course that would actually use the printers to prototype their designs before making the real part. This would change the class from an introductory learning class into a "real world problems" type of a class. Obviously there are some issues with this ideas, mainly printer reliability. However, if we could find a way to print consistently this is a possibility.<br />
<br />
== Blog 12 ==<br />
<br />
I think if I had to pick one project I would work on the dual extruder. I think having the versatility and option of being able to print two colors, thicknesses, or materials at the same time would be cool. This could be used to create parts faster with more resolution in areas where it is needed but also it could create the fill using a coarse extruder. Printing multi colors would just be a cool factor of the parts. It may also be possible to print two of the same part at once, doubling production. <br />
<br />
The filament recycler would be nice so that we can reuse filament. It would allow us to cut down or completely eliminate our waste. The reason I think the extruder is more important is because we don't waste that much filament, and it isn't very expensive to buy. I think that creating a machine to recycle a small amount of filament would be neat but it wouldn't be saving enough waste to make a huge difference. <br />
<br />
In summary they are both important projects that can help the reprap class. The extruder allows more possibilities and a larger variety of prints. Meanwhile, the recycler helps us create less waste to be more environmentally friendly, and it could also lower the amount of filament that we need to buy.<br />
<br />
== Blog 11 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
I think one of the large design problems with the OHM is the extruder. It is very difficult to get all of the parts to work well together without loosening, or being overly tight. One of the main problems is that many of the bolts cannot be adjusted once the extruder is put together. So to fix the problem the whole assembly must be taken apart to make a small adjustment. This makes a routine adjustment a large project that is usually neglected. Also the gears on the extruder need to be perfectly aligned to work correctly. If they are slightly misaligned, a little too tight, or a little loose then the extruder will not turn as it should. Making sure that the gears are aligned correctly requires the extruder body to be shaped right and the bolt to be pushed in straight to ensure alignment. This is very hard to do well.<br />
<br />
I think that the current extruder needs to be redesigned so that all of the bolts and can be reached from the outside. Also maybe a new way to hold and adjust the gears can be found to make them easier to assemble.<br />
<br />
== Blog 10 ==<br />
<br />
Five people talked about my blog in their Blog 8. I think the easiest way to get noticed is to take a minute to stop and think about what you read and do a little research. All of the blogs that were selected as the best were ones that the writer had an interesting view or idea that they described. When writing we don't want to hear a summary, but what you think about the ideas presented. Also, a two minute Google search can give you facts to support your writing or give new ideas for you to discuss. These are two very simple tasks but they make your writing more believable and interesting to read.<br />
<br />
In the future I plan to continue to do research on the topics that we discuss to learn more about them and about similar projects that other people are doing. I also want to add more hyperlinks and pictures to better show what I am speaking about. I think I am doing a good job on the writing, but a picture can make all the words much clearer.<br />
<br />
== Blog 9 ==<br />
<br />
'''Creating 3D data from photos and scans'''<br />
http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130326-autodesk-announces-recap-create-3d-data-from-photos-and-scans.html<br />
<br />
This new technology is very interesting. Up until now people could make models of small parts through 3D scanning. These parts have to be fairly small depending on the scanner that you have and there are problems with certain materials and colors. High quality scanners are also very expensive. With a photo based program anyone with a smartphone or camera could have access to this technology. This allows for any sized object to be drawn. As they said in the article bridges and buildings can now be put into CAD simply by taking a picture. This could be very helpful in repairing or remodeling. While this sounds like amazing technology I am a little skeptical on how well it works. The picture 3D scanners that I have seen all require many pictures to be taken of all angles and then a large computer to compile them. The pictures never fit perfectly and if precision is needed it takes a long time to go back and clean up the drawing. Perhaps they have a solution to these problems, but if not it will require a lot more work than they make it sound. All autodesk's programs are free to students, so we could test the program when it comes out.<br />
<br />
I found two places that have open sourced photo-to-3D programs. There is an example on Photo-To-3D.com of taking 2 pictures and making a 3D object from it. http://www.photo-to-3d.com/entrypage.jsp?uuid=dd2ed80d-8ef8-45ca-8b74-842d3beb599c Although it is only the front face of the object it is pretty neat. As I expected it is not very accurate, and it gets blurred in the corners. However if you don't need it to be exact this could work very well. Here are the two sites I found:<br />
<br />
insight3d<br />
http://insight3d.sourceforge.net/<br />
<br />
Photo-To-3D.com<br />
http://www.photo-to-3d.com/entrypage.jsp?uuid=dd2ed80d-8ef8-45ca-8b74-842d3beb599c<br />
<br />
== Blog 8==<br />
<br />
'''Review Of Other Blogs'''<br />
<br />
Blog 4<br />
<br />
Wjf5042 has a good review of the Robohand. He especially detailed how durable it is and how it can be reprinted if anything breaks and when the boy outgrows the current part. One thing that I hadn't thought about is that the family probably wouldn't buy a normal prosthetic arm until the boy grew up. otherwise they would have to buy a new one every year or so. <br />
<br />
Mark Keller has a very good blog post with a lot of research. He has a lot of good information comparing and contrasting the Robohand with the closed source hand he found. He talks about the difference in feel, cost, durability, and repair of these two products.<br />
<br />
Michael Bilyk has a very organized blog page with good content. His blog 4 is very detailed and has a seperate section for each thought that had about the Robohand project. It is nice to see this separation so that you know exactly what is being discussed in each section. His content is also very well thought out.One point that mentions is that the hand is easily modified for any physical hand problem that people could have.<br />
<br />
<br />
Blog 6<br />
<br />
Matt Rockar's blog is very nicely organized and easy to read. He has good thoughts about the practicality of using the reprap machines for undergraduate classes. He also had a good point on the use of reprap machines as a way to practice problem solving.<br />
<br />
Alex Punzi's blog was very clear and easy to read. He had some interesting perspectives that were different from many of the other blogs.<br />
<br />
<br />
Mark Keller's blog is the most nicely laid out blog that I have seen. He has all of the links for each blog post in the text and has placed pictures in the blog to help show what he is discussing. His writing is very clear and he takes the time to think about each prompt and fully discusses each.<br />
<br />
I think that these people would deserve more XP for their blogs since they are well organized, fully thought out, and have interesting ideas discussed in each of them.<br />
<br />
== Blog 7 ==<br />
(A)<br />
These projects are all very interesting and have the ability to make 3D printing more available to the public. If these companies actually produce their printers normal people could buy the printers instead of them only being available to large companies. Formlabs is being sued by 3D Systems for infringing on their patents. Formlabs says that all the patents have expired but 3D Systems says they infringed on the patent that covers stereolithography. The 3D doodler has been in the news in various places because it allows for much more creativity in 3d printing. Instead of being restricted to machines that must be hooked to a machine, using several programs and waiting hours to build an object this pen can sketch, doodle, or make any object with no setup. It can make super thin objects or build objects in the air. It is also probably much cheaper than any other 3D printer.<br />
There are many other 3D printer projects on Kickstarter.<br />
Bukobot<br />
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/deezmaker/buko-3d-printer-raising-the-bar-of-open-source-3d?ref=live<br />
re:3D<br />
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/re3d/gigabot-3d-printing-this-is-huge?ref=live<br />
<br />
<br />
(B/C)<br />
Kickstarter seems like a great way to raise money for projects. It allows normal people to have their ideas put online and seen by millions. It allows many more people to contribute to the project and earn more money than most people could asking their friends. <br />
After reading the article on Baffler (http://www.thebaffler.com/past/whos_the_shop_steward_on_your_kickstarter) Kickstarter seems more like a scam than a tool. The author had lots of bad things to say about it. Kickstarter and Amazon take 15% of your profits and if you promise gifts you will spend time and money sending them to our supporters so that you end up not having much money left over. If you do have money you still need to build and market your product that takes lots of time and effort. Although, Kickstarter seems like a great way to make money with your ideas, people need to look at it cautiously. This is very different from your average store. The best part is that there is no overhead. You don't need a building, electricity, employees, and everything that goes with it. You could sit at home with your computer and sell your products. The problem with this is that you need to make sure that you can market your items since you have no physical way of displaying them.<br />
<br />
There are alternatives to Kickstarter. Indiegogo, Smallknot, and RocketHub are a few that I found.<br />
<br />
== Blog 6 ==<br />
<br />
A)<br />
'''Disruptions: On the Fast Track to Routine 3-D Printing'''<br />
http://bits.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/02/17/disruptions-3-d-printing-is-on-the-fast-track/?nl=todaysheadlines&emc=edit_th_20130218<br />
<br />
This article details how the 3D printer is becoming a commonly used technology much faster than anyone thought it would. It is being used to make prototypes in many industries, and people are developing printers to make houses, food, and even living tissue. There has been a push by the president and many other groups to make 3D printers more widely used in industry and education. I think that 3D printers have a place everywhere. Simple repraps can be used in schools to support technology classes and help kids be more creative, better problem solvers, and gain experience with a new technology. In contrast the expensive and extremely accurate printers can be used to print engines in an assembly plant. There are many different types of printers with many purposes, and I think that printers will become more common as time goes on.<br />
<br />
B)<br />
The state of the union address was mentioned in this article because the president specifically mentioned 3D printers as a way to bring manufacturing back to the US. I think that it is cool that the president (or his speech writer) values the opportunities that 3D printers can offer. Using 3D printers in any industry can reduce waste and improve efficiency if implemented correctly. 3D printers can also expedite the creation of new ideas and industries that can hopefully create more jobs for Americas.<br />
<br />
C)<br />
'''Using 3D Printers to Transform Learning in Undergraduate Mechanical Engineering Courses'''<br />
http://curry.virginia.edu/research/centers/castlhe/project/using-3d-printers-to-transform-learning-in-undergraduate-mechanical-enginee<br />
<br />
I think using 3D printers for ME classes is a great idea. I am a strong believer that there is not enough hands on learning in universities. Being able to see the actual pieces that you are writing equations for and then testing them to check your results would be a great way to reinforce concepts. This can also be used in statics and strength of materials to test the properties of different materials. If they can print with rubber they could show how shear stress works on beams and how different shapes are affected by forces on them. Adding these printers to any programs would take a lot of work. Move faculty would need to be hired for upkeep and running the machines, money would be needed to buy the machines and materials to constantly upkeep them. Also, if there aren't many machines a system would need to be made to ensure that everyone can use the machines without them being hogged by a few students. <br />
<br />
D)<br />
The printers that Virgina is using cost around $30,000 each so they are about 100 times more expensive than our printers. (http://www.dimensionprinting.com/3d-printers/printing-productspecs1200series.aspx) Since our printers are made by students they have a lot more quirks and "personality" than a industrial printer would have. Our printers could be used for the same purpose but an industrial printer would be easier to use. The industrial printer would probably be much more consistent results than with our printers.<br />
<br />
== Blog 5 ==<br />
<br />
Looking over the objects I picked in my first blog I found a few that might be able to have copyrights. The most obvious is the Mario figure. Since Mario is such a popular figure I am positive that it has a copyright and making this figure probably infringes on that copyright. The electric bike model is a unique object and probably could have a copyright on it because it is artistic. The faces on the 4 headed totem pole may be able to have a copyright. However, them would be severed from the pole because it is not artistic or helpful to the design.<br />
<br />
Looking through Mark Keller's objects the only one that looks like it could have an infringement is the bi-plane. The plane's design is most likely patented by the company that created it. Blake Ziegler has a scanned copy of an Abraham Lincoln statue. This scanned copy is an infringement on the the original sculptor's design. On Cjm5325's blog there is a file to print Minions from the movie Despicable Me. These figures are probably infringing on copyright laws.<br />
<br />
The first reason to obtain a license is so that you know the restrictions on your part and that they cannot change in the future. The second reason is much more important. Obtaining a Creative Commons License for the parts that we create instantly tells other people that they can build off of our ideas. Since this class is all about open source and sharing ideas, all of our parts should have this license so that people don't have to wonder if they can use our work. This will hopefully allow people to share ideas faster and come up with new and better ways to build reprap machines.<br />
<br />
== Blog 4 ==<br />
<br />
Robohand: How cheap 3D printers built a replacement hand for a five-year old boy<br />
<br />
[http://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2013/02/robohand-how-cheap-3d-printers-built-a-replacement-hand-for-a-five-year-old-boy/<br />
]<br />
<br />
I feel like this is a perfect example of the effectiveness of open source ideas. Two random people from across the globe were able to find each other and design a practical and helpful device. By making it open source they are able to share their ideas with any other people that want to help invent a better hand and they can find people that could use their product. Being open source makes the project more accessible to anyone who wants to see it. This should mean collaboration and helping more people. However it also means that the designers cannot hold exclusive rights to their designs and charge to build the hands. If they sold the idea to a company and made it closed source they may be able to get more financial backing and could make more progress. However, a companies mindset is about making money and these men seem to only want to help people with disabilities. The cost of the product is much less in because of the open source. They have no overhead costs so they only have to pay for the materials that they use.<br />
<br />
If we want to participate in this project I think that we should print a Robohand to see how it works. If we can duplicate it well we should try to find someone in our area that could benefit from this device. Also, while making the hands we will probably be able to make alterations to the current designs to make it more user friendly. There may also be other faculty and students that would like to help in the project. It is possible that some robotics could be designed to make the use even better.<br />
<br />
== Blog 3 ==<br />
Contour Crafting: Automated Construction<br />
<br />
This use of 3D printing is pretty amazing. I didn't know that they had concrete that could be stacked without a support structure. Building houses this way could revolutionize the construction business. I know that many homes are now being built in modules, so by printing them in this fashion they could be built faster and more efficiently.<br />
<br />
<br />
How 3D Printers Are Reshaping Medicine<br />
<br />
I have heard of researchers printing human tissue before and it seems like an incredible idea once it is working. It we could print organs and skin whenever an emergency occurred a new organ could be printed in a few hours instead of trying to find a donor which could take months. Skin graphs could be printed instead of taking skin from other parts of the body. These printers could save lives and help people heal much faster. I had never thought of the impact that it could have on pharmaceutical companies. More effective, cheaper, and faster testing of drugs could lower the cost of drugs and may speed the advancement of medicines so that more people could get treatments. Even though these printers are not perfected it sounds like the impacts that they could offer are worth the time and money that are being spent to make them a reality.<br />
<br />
<br />
A $300k 3D-printed burger exists, because why not?<br />
<br />
I could think of a lots of things to spend $300k on, but a burger is not one of them. I'm sure that in the long run there may be a use for 3D printing meet, but it kinda seems like a waste of money. The research may be beneficial for other things also, but if organs are 10 years out for the medical field I feel like it will be at least that long or longer til we have 3D printed food. Even then it is debatable whether or not they could print a quantity that could put a dent in the amount of meat the US uses in a year.<br />
<br />
<br />
The Delicious Future: 3D Chocolate Printer Finally Available for Purchase<br />
<br />
Printing chocolate sounds like something that would be really neat for fancy catering or bakery businesses. Having complex shapes and the ability to print anything would be great for specialty items. I don't see chocolate for the masses using this technology though. It is still easier to melt large quantities in molds. However, the coolness factor of these printers would make them worth it for some.<br />
<br />
<br />
3D Printing Fashion<br />
<br />
Printing clothing sounds like a very interesting concept. Most all the 3D printers print solids, but clothes would have to be flexible to wear. I would like to know what materials that they use and how comfortable the clothes really are. Also, most clothes are woven. So how does a 3D printer keep the fibers together without melting them together? Printing clothing seems like a novel idea, but not very practical in a large scale.<br />
<br />
<br />
Finding other 3D printing ideas is pretty easy. A quick search brought up some of the ones previously discussed like the houses and fashion, and also new ones like baseball bats, guns, sand castles, exoskeletons, and drugs. Since this technology can be used with many mediums there are people experimenting in all kinds of disciplines.<br />
<br />
== Blog 2 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The features that are being demonstrated do not seem to be impressive. Copy, paste, save and delete are all commands that we have become accustomed to. However, if it was the first time that I had ever seen these ideas I think that they would be amazing. Being able to automatically retype something, save anything, and have a method of moving across a screen that is not through the keyboard, revolutionizes a computer experience. I have used a DOS computer system and other programs that do not use a mouse and we don’t realize how amazing a mouse really is until it is gone. <br />
<br />
People’s initial reaction to the mother of all demos was that the whole thing was a hoax. Viewers didn’t believe that what he was doing was possible.<br />
I think that sharing your knowledge all depends on the outcome that we want. Sharing ideas is all about learning and progressing ideas. Keeping ideas secret and patenting them seems to all be in the hopes that money can be made. As a university we want all students here to understand the technology and all of the possibilities that it contains. So our goal should be to share the information to allow other people to learn. By sharing this information other people can add their ideas to ours and we can come up with new technologies to advance the 3D printing. I think that having all of our printers and information online is a great idea. The only way to make it better is to continue to add instructions and pictures so that anyone can easily understand and replicate the systems.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Blog 1 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Part A'''<br />
<br />
<br />
1. Even though I don't own a tablet, I thought that this tablet stand would be very nice to carry with you or to leave on a desk.<br />
2. I like motorcycles, so even though this is just a model I think that it is artistic and beautiful. <br />
3. Round tuits are worth a chuckle the first time but after that they have no point. <br />
4. Model of Mario. Funny/awesome. <br />
5. This is a four headed totem pole piece. It seems to not have a purpose and it is strange that someone would want one just to sit on their desk.<br />
<br />
<br />
1. useful http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23784 <br />
2. artistic http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42265 <br />
3. useless http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35377 <br />
4. funny http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24751 <br />
5. strange http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30852<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Part B'''<br />
<br />
<br />
I would like to think that I am sometimes a tinkerer. My Dad is definitely a tinkerer and has multiple projects that he has worked on in energy and sustainability. I believe that not only corporate mentality but schools have made people focus only on results. No boss wants their workers to fail 80% of the time, and you can't pass school with a 20% either. This focus on correctness I think has made people self-consciously give up if they don;t think that they can do it well in the first try. This mentality is completely reverse of good design and tinkering. "Fail often to succeed sooner" is a quote from David Kelley of IDEO that could be a motto for tinkerers.<br />
<br />
I think the biggest principle I got out of the interview is to always put yourself in the seat of the user, or watch how they react. The happier the user is the more successful the design will be. When I saw his rapid prototyper I was surprised that he didn't have one already. It is also a great idea. What better project for a kid than to use their creativity to build a prototyper that they can continue to design and experiment with. I think the main thing to remember is that it can always be improved. Think outside the box, most ideas are helpful as long as you build off them to improve.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User:Djl5217&diff=89345User:Djl52172013-04-19T21:48:58Z<p>Djl5217: /* Blog 13 */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Blog 13 ==<br />
<br />
The thing I would have liked to spend more time on is 3D scanning and then printing the parts. we read the article about the new program that AUTOCAD has<br />
<br />
I think the best way to evolve this class would be to use the printers for prototyping. They are called rapid prototypers but all that we have done in this class is replicate or print little trinkets for other classes. It would be interesting to try to partner with a junior design course (ME 340) or other course that would actually use the printers to prototype their designs before making the real part. This would change the class from an introductory learning class into a "real world problems" type of a class. Obviously there are some issues with this ideas, mainly printer reliability. However, if we could find a way to print consistently this is a possibility.<br />
<br />
== Blog 12 ==<br />
<br />
I think if I had to pick one project I would work on the dual extruder. I think having the versatility and option of being able to print two colors, thicknesses, or materials at the same time would be cool. This could be used to create parts faster with more resolution in areas where it is needed but also it could create the fill using a coarse extruder. Printing multi colors would just be a cool factor of the parts. It may also be possible to print two of the same part at once, doubling production. <br />
<br />
The filament recycler would be nice so that we can reuse filament. It would allow us to cut down or completely eliminate our waste. The reason I think the extruder is more important is because we don't waste that much filament, and it isn't very expensive to buy. I think that creating a machine to recycle a small amount of filament would be neat but it wouldn't be saving enough waste to make a huge difference. <br />
<br />
In summary they are both important projects that can help the reprap class. The extruder allows more possibilities and a larger variety of prints. Meanwhile, the recycler helps us create less waste to be more environmentally friendly, and it could also lower the amount of filament that we need to buy.<br />
<br />
== Blog 11 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
I think one of the large design problems with the OHM is the extruder. It is very difficult to get all of the parts to work well together without loosening, or being overly tight. One of the main problems is that many of the bolts cannot be adjusted once the extruder is put together. So to fix the problem the whole assembly must be taken apart to make a small adjustment. This makes a routine adjustment a large project that is usually neglected. Also the gears on the extruder need to be perfectly aligned to work correctly. If they are slightly misaligned, a little too tight, or a little loose then the extruder will not turn as it should. Making sure that the gears are aligned correctly requires the extruder body to be shaped right and the bolt to be pushed in straight to ensure alignment. This is very hard to do well.<br />
<br />
I think that the current extruder needs to be redesigned so that all of the bolts and can be reached from the outside. Also maybe a new way to hold and adjust the gears can be found to make them easier to assemble.<br />
<br />
== Blog 10 ==<br />
<br />
Five people talked about my blog in their Blog 8. I think the easiest way to get noticed is to take a minute to stop and think about what you read and do a little research. All of the blogs that were selected as the best were ones that the writer had an interesting view or idea that they described. When writing we don't want to hear a summary, but what you think about the ideas presented. Also, a two minute Google search can give you facts to support your writing or give new ideas for you to discuss. These are two very simple tasks but they make your writing more believable and interesting to read.<br />
<br />
In the future I plan to continue to do research on the topics that we discuss to learn more about them and about similar projects that other people are doing. I also want to add more hyperlinks and pictures to better show what I am speaking about. I think I am doing a good job on the writing, but a picture can make all the words much clearer.<br />
<br />
== Blog 9 ==<br />
<br />
'''Creating 3D data from photos and scans'''<br />
http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130326-autodesk-announces-recap-create-3d-data-from-photos-and-scans.html<br />
<br />
This new technology is very interesting. Up until now people could make models of small parts through 3D scanning. These parts have to be fairly small depending on the scanner that you have and there are problems with certain materials and colors. High quality scanners are also very expensive. With a photo based program anyone with a smartphone or camera could have access to this technology. This allows for any sized object to be drawn. As they said in the article bridges and buildings can now be put into CAD simply by taking a picture. This could be very helpful in repairing or remodeling. While this sounds like amazing technology I am a little skeptical on how well it works. The picture 3D scanners that I have seen all require many pictures to be taken of all angles and then a large computer to compile them. The pictures never fit perfectly and if precision is needed it takes a long time to go back and clean up the drawing. Perhaps they have a solution to these problems, but if not it will require a lot more work than they make it sound. All autodesk's programs are free to students, so we could test the program when it comes out.<br />
<br />
I found two places that have open sourced photo-to-3D programs. There is an example on Photo-To-3D.com of taking 2 pictures and making a 3D object from it. http://www.photo-to-3d.com/entrypage.jsp?uuid=dd2ed80d-8ef8-45ca-8b74-842d3beb599c Although it is only the front face of the object it is pretty neat. As I expected it is not very accurate, and it gets blurred in the corners. However if you don't need it to be exact this could work very well. Here are the two sites I found:<br />
<br />
insight3d<br />
http://insight3d.sourceforge.net/<br />
<br />
Photo-To-3D.com<br />
http://www.photo-to-3d.com/entrypage.jsp?uuid=dd2ed80d-8ef8-45ca-8b74-842d3beb599c<br />
<br />
== Blog 8==<br />
<br />
'''Review Of Other Blogs'''<br />
<br />
Blog 4<br />
<br />
Wjf5042 has a good review of the Robohand. He especially detailed how durable it is and how it can be reprinted if anything breaks and when the boy outgrows the current part. One thing that I hadn't thought about is that the family probably wouldn't buy a normal prosthetic arm until the boy grew up. otherwise they would have to buy a new one every year or so. <br />
<br />
Mark Keller has a very good blog post with a lot of research. He has a lot of good information comparing and contrasting the Robohand with the closed source hand he found. He talks about the difference in feel, cost, durability, and repair of these two products.<br />
<br />
Michael Bilyk has a very organized blog page with good content. His blog 4 is very detailed and has a seperate section for each thought that had about the Robohand project. It is nice to see this separation so that you know exactly what is being discussed in each section. His content is also very well thought out.One point that mentions is that the hand is easily modified for any physical hand problem that people could have.<br />
<br />
<br />
Blog 6<br />
<br />
Matt Rockar's blog is very nicely organized and easy to read. He has good thoughts about the practicality of using the reprap machines for undergraduate classes. He also had a good point on the use of reprap machines as a way to practice problem solving.<br />
<br />
Alex Punzi's blog was very clear and easy to read. He had some interesting perspectives that were different from many of the other blogs.<br />
<br />
<br />
Mark Keller's blog is the most nicely laid out blog that I have seen. He has all of the links for each blog post in the text and has placed pictures in the blog to help show what he is discussing. His writing is very clear and he takes the time to think about each prompt and fully discusses each.<br />
<br />
I think that these people would deserve more XP for their blogs since they are well organized, fully thought out, and have interesting ideas discussed in each of them.<br />
<br />
== Blog 7 ==<br />
(A)<br />
These projects are all very interesting and have the ability to make 3D printing more available to the public. If these companies actually produce their printers normal people could buy the printers instead of them only being available to large companies. Formlabs is being sued by 3D Systems for infringing on their patents. Formlabs says that all the patents have expired but 3D Systems says they infringed on the patent that covers stereolithography. The 3D doodler has been in the news in various places because it allows for much more creativity in 3d printing. Instead of being restricted to machines that must be hooked to a machine, using several programs and waiting hours to build an object this pen can sketch, doodle, or make any object with no setup. It can make super thin objects or build objects in the air. It is also probably much cheaper than any other 3D printer.<br />
There are many other 3D printer projects on Kickstarter.<br />
Bukobot<br />
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/deezmaker/buko-3d-printer-raising-the-bar-of-open-source-3d?ref=live<br />
re:3D<br />
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/re3d/gigabot-3d-printing-this-is-huge?ref=live<br />
<br />
<br />
(B/C)<br />
Kickstarter seems like a great way to raise money for projects. It allows normal people to have their ideas put online and seen by millions. It allows many more people to contribute to the project and earn more money than most people could asking their friends. <br />
After reading the article on Baffler (http://www.thebaffler.com/past/whos_the_shop_steward_on_your_kickstarter) Kickstarter seems more like a scam than a tool. The author had lots of bad things to say about it. Kickstarter and Amazon take 15% of your profits and if you promise gifts you will spend time and money sending them to our supporters so that you end up not having much money left over. If you do have money you still need to build and market your product that takes lots of time and effort. Although, Kickstarter seems like a great way to make money with your ideas, people need to look at it cautiously. This is very different from your average store. The best part is that there is no overhead. You don't need a building, electricity, employees, and everything that goes with it. You could sit at home with your computer and sell your products. The problem with this is that you need to make sure that you can market your items since you have no physical way of displaying them.<br />
<br />
There are alternatives to Kickstarter. Indiegogo, Smallknot, and RocketHub are a few that I found.<br />
<br />
== Blog 6 ==<br />
<br />
A)<br />
'''Disruptions: On the Fast Track to Routine 3-D Printing'''<br />
http://bits.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/02/17/disruptions-3-d-printing-is-on-the-fast-track/?nl=todaysheadlines&emc=edit_th_20130218<br />
<br />
This article details how the 3D printer is becoming a commonly used technology much faster than anyone thought it would. It is being used to make prototypes in many industries, and people are developing printers to make houses, food, and even living tissue. There has been a push by the president and many other groups to make 3D printers more widely used in industry and education. I think that 3D printers have a place everywhere. Simple repraps can be used in schools to support technology classes and help kids be more creative, better problem solvers, and gain experience with a new technology. In contrast the expensive and extremely accurate printers can be used to print engines in an assembly plant. There are many different types of printers with many purposes, and I think that printers will become more common as time goes on.<br />
<br />
B)<br />
The state of the union address was mentioned in this article because the president specifically mentioned 3D printers as a way to bring manufacturing back to the US. I think that it is cool that the president (or his speech writer) values the opportunities that 3D printers can offer. Using 3D printers in any industry can reduce waste and improve efficiency if implemented correctly. 3D printers can also expedite the creation of new ideas and industries that can hopefully create more jobs for Americas.<br />
<br />
C)<br />
'''Using 3D Printers to Transform Learning in Undergraduate Mechanical Engineering Courses'''<br />
http://curry.virginia.edu/research/centers/castlhe/project/using-3d-printers-to-transform-learning-in-undergraduate-mechanical-enginee<br />
<br />
I think using 3D printers for ME classes is a great idea. I am a strong believer that there is not enough hands on learning in universities. Being able to see the actual pieces that you are writing equations for and then testing them to check your results would be a great way to reinforce concepts. This can also be used in statics and strength of materials to test the properties of different materials. If they can print with rubber they could show how shear stress works on beams and how different shapes are affected by forces on them. Adding these printers to any programs would take a lot of work. Move faculty would need to be hired for upkeep and running the machines, money would be needed to buy the machines and materials to constantly upkeep them. Also, if there aren't many machines a system would need to be made to ensure that everyone can use the machines without them being hogged by a few students. <br />
<br />
D)<br />
The printers that Virgina is using cost around $30,000 each so they are about 100 times more expensive than our printers. (http://www.dimensionprinting.com/3d-printers/printing-productspecs1200series.aspx) Since our printers are made by students they have a lot more quirks and "personality" than a industrial printer would have. Our printers could be used for the same purpose but an industrial printer would be easier to use. The industrial printer would probably be much more consistent results than with our printers.<br />
<br />
== Blog 5 ==<br />
<br />
Looking over the objects I picked in my first blog I found a few that might be able to have copyrights. The most obvious is the Mario figure. Since Mario is such a popular figure I am positive that it has a copyright and making this figure probably infringes on that copyright. The electric bike model is a unique object and probably could have a copyright on it because it is artistic. The faces on the 4 headed totem pole may be able to have a copyright. However, them would be severed from the pole because it is not artistic or helpful to the design.<br />
<br />
Looking through Mark Keller's objects the only one that looks like it could have an infringement is the bi-plane. The plane's design is most likely patented by the company that created it. Blake Ziegler has a scanned copy of an Abraham Lincoln statue. This scanned copy is an infringement on the the original sculptor's design. On Cjm5325's blog there is a file to print Minions from the movie Despicable Me. These figures are probably infringing on copyright laws.<br />
<br />
The first reason to obtain a license is so that you know the restrictions on your part and that they cannot change in the future. The second reason is much more important. Obtaining a Creative Commons License for the parts that we create instantly tells other people that they can build off of our ideas. Since this class is all about open source and sharing ideas, all of our parts should have this license so that people don't have to wonder if they can use our work. This will hopefully allow people to share ideas faster and come up with new and better ways to build reprap machines.<br />
<br />
== Blog 4 ==<br />
<br />
Robohand: How cheap 3D printers built a replacement hand for a five-year old boy<br />
<br />
[http://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2013/02/robohand-how-cheap-3d-printers-built-a-replacement-hand-for-a-five-year-old-boy/<br />
]<br />
<br />
I feel like this is a perfect example of the effectiveness of open source ideas. Two random people from across the globe were able to find each other and design a practical and helpful device. By making it open source they are able to share their ideas with any other people that want to help invent a better hand and they can find people that could use their product. Being open source makes the project more accessible to anyone who wants to see it. This should mean collaboration and helping more people. However it also means that the designers cannot hold exclusive rights to their designs and charge to build the hands. If they sold the idea to a company and made it closed source they may be able to get more financial backing and could make more progress. However, a companies mindset is about making money and these men seem to only want to help people with disabilities. The cost of the product is much less in because of the open source. They have no overhead costs so they only have to pay for the materials that they use.<br />
<br />
If we want to participate in this project I think that we should print a Robohand to see how it works. If we can duplicate it well we should try to find someone in our area that could benefit from this device. Also, while making the hands we will probably be able to make alterations to the current designs to make it more user friendly. There may also be other faculty and students that would like to help in the project. It is possible that some robotics could be designed to make the use even better.<br />
<br />
== Blog 3 ==<br />
Contour Crafting: Automated Construction<br />
<br />
This use of 3D printing is pretty amazing. I didn't know that they had concrete that could be stacked without a support structure. Building houses this way could revolutionize the construction business. I know that many homes are now being built in modules, so by printing them in this fashion they could be built faster and more efficiently.<br />
<br />
<br />
How 3D Printers Are Reshaping Medicine<br />
<br />
I have heard of researchers printing human tissue before and it seems like an incredible idea once it is working. It we could print organs and skin whenever an emergency occurred a new organ could be printed in a few hours instead of trying to find a donor which could take months. Skin graphs could be printed instead of taking skin from other parts of the body. These printers could save lives and help people heal much faster. I had never thought of the impact that it could have on pharmaceutical companies. More effective, cheaper, and faster testing of drugs could lower the cost of drugs and may speed the advancement of medicines so that more people could get treatments. Even though these printers are not perfected it sounds like the impacts that they could offer are worth the time and money that are being spent to make them a reality.<br />
<br />
<br />
A $300k 3D-printed burger exists, because why not?<br />
<br />
I could think of a lots of things to spend $300k on, but a burger is not one of them. I'm sure that in the long run there may be a use for 3D printing meet, but it kinda seems like a waste of money. The research may be beneficial for other things also, but if organs are 10 years out for the medical field I feel like it will be at least that long or longer til we have 3D printed food. Even then it is debatable whether or not they could print a quantity that could put a dent in the amount of meat the US uses in a year.<br />
<br />
<br />
The Delicious Future: 3D Chocolate Printer Finally Available for Purchase<br />
<br />
Printing chocolate sounds like something that would be really neat for fancy catering or bakery businesses. Having complex shapes and the ability to print anything would be great for specialty items. I don't see chocolate for the masses using this technology though. It is still easier to melt large quantities in molds. However, the coolness factor of these printers would make them worth it for some.<br />
<br />
<br />
3D Printing Fashion<br />
<br />
Printing clothing sounds like a very interesting concept. Most all the 3D printers print solids, but clothes would have to be flexible to wear. I would like to know what materials that they use and how comfortable the clothes really are. Also, most clothes are woven. So how does a 3D printer keep the fibers together without melting them together? Printing clothing seems like a novel idea, but not very practical in a large scale.<br />
<br />
<br />
Finding other 3D printing ideas is pretty easy. A quick search brought up some of the ones previously discussed like the houses and fashion, and also new ones like baseball bats, guns, sand castles, exoskeletons, and drugs. Since this technology can be used with many mediums there are people experimenting in all kinds of disciplines.<br />
<br />
== Blog 2 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The features that are being demonstrated do not seem to be impressive. Copy, paste, save and delete are all commands that we have become accustomed to. However, if it was the first time that I had ever seen these ideas I think that they would be amazing. Being able to automatically retype something, save anything, and have a method of moving across a screen that is not through the keyboard, revolutionizes a computer experience. I have used a DOS computer system and other programs that do not use a mouse and we don’t realize how amazing a mouse really is until it is gone. <br />
<br />
People’s initial reaction to the mother of all demos was that the whole thing was a hoax. Viewers didn’t believe that what he was doing was possible.<br />
I think that sharing your knowledge all depends on the outcome that we want. Sharing ideas is all about learning and progressing ideas. Keeping ideas secret and patenting them seems to all be in the hopes that money can be made. As a university we want all students here to understand the technology and all of the possibilities that it contains. So our goal should be to share the information to allow other people to learn. By sharing this information other people can add their ideas to ours and we can come up with new technologies to advance the 3D printing. I think that having all of our printers and information online is a great idea. The only way to make it better is to continue to add instructions and pictures so that anyone can easily understand and replicate the systems.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Blog 1 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Part A'''<br />
<br />
<br />
1. Even though I don't own a tablet, I thought that this tablet stand would be very nice to carry with you or to leave on a desk.<br />
2. I like motorcycles, so even though this is just a model I think that it is artistic and beautiful. <br />
3. Round tuits are worth a chuckle the first time but after that they have no point. <br />
4. Model of Mario. Funny/awesome. <br />
5. This is a four headed totem pole piece. It seems to not have a purpose and it is strange that someone would want one just to sit on their desk.<br />
<br />
<br />
1. useful http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23784 <br />
2. artistic http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42265 <br />
3. useless http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35377 <br />
4. funny http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24751 <br />
5. strange http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30852<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Part B'''<br />
<br />
<br />
I would like to think that I am sometimes a tinkerer. My Dad is definitely a tinkerer and has multiple projects that he has worked on in energy and sustainability. I believe that not only corporate mentality but schools have made people focus only on results. No boss wants their workers to fail 80% of the time, and you can't pass school with a 20% either. This focus on correctness I think has made people self-consciously give up if they don;t think that they can do it well in the first try. This mentality is completely reverse of good design and tinkering. "Fail often to succeed sooner" is a quote from David Kelley of IDEO that could be a motto for tinkerers.<br />
<br />
I think the biggest principle I got out of the interview is to always put yourself in the seat of the user, or watch how they react. The happier the user is the more successful the design will be. When I saw his rapid prototyper I was surprised that he didn't have one already. It is also a great idea. What better project for a kid than to use their creativity to build a prototyper that they can continue to design and experiment with. I think the main thing to remember is that it can always be improved. Think outside the box, most ideas are helpful as long as you build off them to improve.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User:Djl5217&diff=89338User:Djl52172013-04-19T21:38:24Z<p>Djl5217: /* Blog 12 */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Blog 13 ==<br />
<br />
== Blog 12 ==<br />
<br />
I think if I had to pick one project I would work on the dual extruder. I think having the versatility and option of being able to print two colors, thicknesses, or materials at the same time would be cool. This could be used to create parts faster with more resolution in areas where it is needed but also it could create the fill using a coarse extruder. Printing multi colors would just be a cool factor of the parts. It may also be possible to print two of the same part at once, doubling production. <br />
<br />
The filament recycler would be nice so that we can reuse filament. It would allow us to cut down or completely eliminate our waste. The reason I think the extruder is more important is because we don't waste that much filament, and it isn't very expensive to buy. I think that creating a machine to recycle a small amount of filament would be neat but it wouldn't be saving enough waste to make a huge difference. <br />
<br />
In summary they are both important projects that can help the reprap class. The extruder allows more possibilities and a larger variety of prints. Meanwhile, the recycler helps us create less waste to be more environmentally friendly, and it could also lower the amount of filament that we need to buy.<br />
<br />
== Blog 11 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
I think one of the large design problems with the OHM is the extruder. It is very difficult to get all of the parts to work well together without loosening, or being overly tight. One of the main problems is that many of the bolts cannot be adjusted once the extruder is put together. So to fix the problem the whole assembly must be taken apart to make a small adjustment. This makes a routine adjustment a large project that is usually neglected. Also the gears on the extruder need to be perfectly aligned to work correctly. If they are slightly misaligned, a little too tight, or a little loose then the extruder will not turn as it should. Making sure that the gears are aligned correctly requires the extruder body to be shaped right and the bolt to be pushed in straight to ensure alignment. This is very hard to do well.<br />
<br />
I think that the current extruder needs to be redesigned so that all of the bolts and can be reached from the outside. Also maybe a new way to hold and adjust the gears can be found to make them easier to assemble.<br />
<br />
== Blog 10 ==<br />
<br />
Five people talked about my blog in their Blog 8. I think the easiest way to get noticed is to take a minute to stop and think about what you read and do a little research. All of the blogs that were selected as the best were ones that the writer had an interesting view or idea that they described. When writing we don't want to hear a summary, but what you think about the ideas presented. Also, a two minute Google search can give you facts to support your writing or give new ideas for you to discuss. These are two very simple tasks but they make your writing more believable and interesting to read.<br />
<br />
In the future I plan to continue to do research on the topics that we discuss to learn more about them and about similar projects that other people are doing. I also want to add more hyperlinks and pictures to better show what I am speaking about. I think I am doing a good job on the writing, but a picture can make all the words much clearer.<br />
<br />
== Blog 9 ==<br />
<br />
'''Creating 3D data from photos and scans'''<br />
http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130326-autodesk-announces-recap-create-3d-data-from-photos-and-scans.html<br />
<br />
This new technology is very interesting. Up until now people could make models of small parts through 3D scanning. These parts have to be fairly small depending on the scanner that you have and there are problems with certain materials and colors. High quality scanners are also very expensive. With a photo based program anyone with a smartphone or camera could have access to this technology. This allows for any sized object to be drawn. As they said in the article bridges and buildings can now be put into CAD simply by taking a picture. This could be very helpful in repairing or remodeling. While this sounds like amazing technology I am a little skeptical on how well it works. The picture 3D scanners that I have seen all require many pictures to be taken of all angles and then a large computer to compile them. The pictures never fit perfectly and if precision is needed it takes a long time to go back and clean up the drawing. Perhaps they have a solution to these problems, but if not it will require a lot more work than they make it sound. All autodesk's programs are free to students, so we could test the program when it comes out.<br />
<br />
I found two places that have open sourced photo-to-3D programs. There is an example on Photo-To-3D.com of taking 2 pictures and making a 3D object from it. http://www.photo-to-3d.com/entrypage.jsp?uuid=dd2ed80d-8ef8-45ca-8b74-842d3beb599c Although it is only the front face of the object it is pretty neat. As I expected it is not very accurate, and it gets blurred in the corners. However if you don't need it to be exact this could work very well. Here are the two sites I found:<br />
<br />
insight3d<br />
http://insight3d.sourceforge.net/<br />
<br />
Photo-To-3D.com<br />
http://www.photo-to-3d.com/entrypage.jsp?uuid=dd2ed80d-8ef8-45ca-8b74-842d3beb599c<br />
<br />
== Blog 8==<br />
<br />
'''Review Of Other Blogs'''<br />
<br />
Blog 4<br />
<br />
Wjf5042 has a good review of the Robohand. He especially detailed how durable it is and how it can be reprinted if anything breaks and when the boy outgrows the current part. One thing that I hadn't thought about is that the family probably wouldn't buy a normal prosthetic arm until the boy grew up. otherwise they would have to buy a new one every year or so. <br />
<br />
Mark Keller has a very good blog post with a lot of research. He has a lot of good information comparing and contrasting the Robohand with the closed source hand he found. He talks about the difference in feel, cost, durability, and repair of these two products.<br />
<br />
Michael Bilyk has a very organized blog page with good content. His blog 4 is very detailed and has a seperate section for each thought that had about the Robohand project. It is nice to see this separation so that you know exactly what is being discussed in each section. His content is also very well thought out.One point that mentions is that the hand is easily modified for any physical hand problem that people could have.<br />
<br />
<br />
Blog 6<br />
<br />
Matt Rockar's blog is very nicely organized and easy to read. He has good thoughts about the practicality of using the reprap machines for undergraduate classes. He also had a good point on the use of reprap machines as a way to practice problem solving.<br />
<br />
Alex Punzi's blog was very clear and easy to read. He had some interesting perspectives that were different from many of the other blogs.<br />
<br />
<br />
Mark Keller's blog is the most nicely laid out blog that I have seen. He has all of the links for each blog post in the text and has placed pictures in the blog to help show what he is discussing. His writing is very clear and he takes the time to think about each prompt and fully discusses each.<br />
<br />
I think that these people would deserve more XP for their blogs since they are well organized, fully thought out, and have interesting ideas discussed in each of them.<br />
<br />
== Blog 7 ==<br />
(A)<br />
These projects are all very interesting and have the ability to make 3D printing more available to the public. If these companies actually produce their printers normal people could buy the printers instead of them only being available to large companies. Formlabs is being sued by 3D Systems for infringing on their patents. Formlabs says that all the patents have expired but 3D Systems says they infringed on the patent that covers stereolithography. The 3D doodler has been in the news in various places because it allows for much more creativity in 3d printing. Instead of being restricted to machines that must be hooked to a machine, using several programs and waiting hours to build an object this pen can sketch, doodle, or make any object with no setup. It can make super thin objects or build objects in the air. It is also probably much cheaper than any other 3D printer.<br />
There are many other 3D printer projects on Kickstarter.<br />
Bukobot<br />
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/deezmaker/buko-3d-printer-raising-the-bar-of-open-source-3d?ref=live<br />
re:3D<br />
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/re3d/gigabot-3d-printing-this-is-huge?ref=live<br />
<br />
<br />
(B/C)<br />
Kickstarter seems like a great way to raise money for projects. It allows normal people to have their ideas put online and seen by millions. It allows many more people to contribute to the project and earn more money than most people could asking their friends. <br />
After reading the article on Baffler (http://www.thebaffler.com/past/whos_the_shop_steward_on_your_kickstarter) Kickstarter seems more like a scam than a tool. The author had lots of bad things to say about it. Kickstarter and Amazon take 15% of your profits and if you promise gifts you will spend time and money sending them to our supporters so that you end up not having much money left over. If you do have money you still need to build and market your product that takes lots of time and effort. Although, Kickstarter seems like a great way to make money with your ideas, people need to look at it cautiously. This is very different from your average store. The best part is that there is no overhead. You don't need a building, electricity, employees, and everything that goes with it. You could sit at home with your computer and sell your products. The problem with this is that you need to make sure that you can market your items since you have no physical way of displaying them.<br />
<br />
There are alternatives to Kickstarter. Indiegogo, Smallknot, and RocketHub are a few that I found.<br />
<br />
== Blog 6 ==<br />
<br />
A)<br />
'''Disruptions: On the Fast Track to Routine 3-D Printing'''<br />
http://bits.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/02/17/disruptions-3-d-printing-is-on-the-fast-track/?nl=todaysheadlines&emc=edit_th_20130218<br />
<br />
This article details how the 3D printer is becoming a commonly used technology much faster than anyone thought it would. It is being used to make prototypes in many industries, and people are developing printers to make houses, food, and even living tissue. There has been a push by the president and many other groups to make 3D printers more widely used in industry and education. I think that 3D printers have a place everywhere. Simple repraps can be used in schools to support technology classes and help kids be more creative, better problem solvers, and gain experience with a new technology. In contrast the expensive and extremely accurate printers can be used to print engines in an assembly plant. There are many different types of printers with many purposes, and I think that printers will become more common as time goes on.<br />
<br />
B)<br />
The state of the union address was mentioned in this article because the president specifically mentioned 3D printers as a way to bring manufacturing back to the US. I think that it is cool that the president (or his speech writer) values the opportunities that 3D printers can offer. Using 3D printers in any industry can reduce waste and improve efficiency if implemented correctly. 3D printers can also expedite the creation of new ideas and industries that can hopefully create more jobs for Americas.<br />
<br />
C)<br />
'''Using 3D Printers to Transform Learning in Undergraduate Mechanical Engineering Courses'''<br />
http://curry.virginia.edu/research/centers/castlhe/project/using-3d-printers-to-transform-learning-in-undergraduate-mechanical-enginee<br />
<br />
I think using 3D printers for ME classes is a great idea. I am a strong believer that there is not enough hands on learning in universities. Being able to see the actual pieces that you are writing equations for and then testing them to check your results would be a great way to reinforce concepts. This can also be used in statics and strength of materials to test the properties of different materials. If they can print with rubber they could show how shear stress works on beams and how different shapes are affected by forces on them. Adding these printers to any programs would take a lot of work. Move faculty would need to be hired for upkeep and running the machines, money would be needed to buy the machines and materials to constantly upkeep them. Also, if there aren't many machines a system would need to be made to ensure that everyone can use the machines without them being hogged by a few students. <br />
<br />
D)<br />
The printers that Virgina is using cost around $30,000 each so they are about 100 times more expensive than our printers. (http://www.dimensionprinting.com/3d-printers/printing-productspecs1200series.aspx) Since our printers are made by students they have a lot more quirks and "personality" than a industrial printer would have. Our printers could be used for the same purpose but an industrial printer would be easier to use. The industrial printer would probably be much more consistent results than with our printers.<br />
<br />
== Blog 5 ==<br />
<br />
Looking over the objects I picked in my first blog I found a few that might be able to have copyrights. The most obvious is the Mario figure. Since Mario is such a popular figure I am positive that it has a copyright and making this figure probably infringes on that copyright. The electric bike model is a unique object and probably could have a copyright on it because it is artistic. The faces on the 4 headed totem pole may be able to have a copyright. However, them would be severed from the pole because it is not artistic or helpful to the design.<br />
<br />
Looking through Mark Keller's objects the only one that looks like it could have an infringement is the bi-plane. The plane's design is most likely patented by the company that created it. Blake Ziegler has a scanned copy of an Abraham Lincoln statue. This scanned copy is an infringement on the the original sculptor's design. On Cjm5325's blog there is a file to print Minions from the movie Despicable Me. These figures are probably infringing on copyright laws.<br />
<br />
The first reason to obtain a license is so that you know the restrictions on your part and that they cannot change in the future. The second reason is much more important. Obtaining a Creative Commons License for the parts that we create instantly tells other people that they can build off of our ideas. Since this class is all about open source and sharing ideas, all of our parts should have this license so that people don't have to wonder if they can use our work. This will hopefully allow people to share ideas faster and come up with new and better ways to build reprap machines.<br />
<br />
== Blog 4 ==<br />
<br />
Robohand: How cheap 3D printers built a replacement hand for a five-year old boy<br />
<br />
[http://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2013/02/robohand-how-cheap-3d-printers-built-a-replacement-hand-for-a-five-year-old-boy/<br />
]<br />
<br />
I feel like this is a perfect example of the effectiveness of open source ideas. Two random people from across the globe were able to find each other and design a practical and helpful device. By making it open source they are able to share their ideas with any other people that want to help invent a better hand and they can find people that could use their product. Being open source makes the project more accessible to anyone who wants to see it. This should mean collaboration and helping more people. However it also means that the designers cannot hold exclusive rights to their designs and charge to build the hands. If they sold the idea to a company and made it closed source they may be able to get more financial backing and could make more progress. However, a companies mindset is about making money and these men seem to only want to help people with disabilities. The cost of the product is much less in because of the open source. They have no overhead costs so they only have to pay for the materials that they use.<br />
<br />
If we want to participate in this project I think that we should print a Robohand to see how it works. If we can duplicate it well we should try to find someone in our area that could benefit from this device. Also, while making the hands we will probably be able to make alterations to the current designs to make it more user friendly. There may also be other faculty and students that would like to help in the project. It is possible that some robotics could be designed to make the use even better.<br />
<br />
== Blog 3 ==<br />
Contour Crafting: Automated Construction<br />
<br />
This use of 3D printing is pretty amazing. I didn't know that they had concrete that could be stacked without a support structure. Building houses this way could revolutionize the construction business. I know that many homes are now being built in modules, so by printing them in this fashion they could be built faster and more efficiently.<br />
<br />
<br />
How 3D Printers Are Reshaping Medicine<br />
<br />
I have heard of researchers printing human tissue before and it seems like an incredible idea once it is working. It we could print organs and skin whenever an emergency occurred a new organ could be printed in a few hours instead of trying to find a donor which could take months. Skin graphs could be printed instead of taking skin from other parts of the body. These printers could save lives and help people heal much faster. I had never thought of the impact that it could have on pharmaceutical companies. More effective, cheaper, and faster testing of drugs could lower the cost of drugs and may speed the advancement of medicines so that more people could get treatments. Even though these printers are not perfected it sounds like the impacts that they could offer are worth the time and money that are being spent to make them a reality.<br />
<br />
<br />
A $300k 3D-printed burger exists, because why not?<br />
<br />
I could think of a lots of things to spend $300k on, but a burger is not one of them. I'm sure that in the long run there may be a use for 3D printing meet, but it kinda seems like a waste of money. The research may be beneficial for other things also, but if organs are 10 years out for the medical field I feel like it will be at least that long or longer til we have 3D printed food. Even then it is debatable whether or not they could print a quantity that could put a dent in the amount of meat the US uses in a year.<br />
<br />
<br />
The Delicious Future: 3D Chocolate Printer Finally Available for Purchase<br />
<br />
Printing chocolate sounds like something that would be really neat for fancy catering or bakery businesses. Having complex shapes and the ability to print anything would be great for specialty items. I don't see chocolate for the masses using this technology though. It is still easier to melt large quantities in molds. However, the coolness factor of these printers would make them worth it for some.<br />
<br />
<br />
3D Printing Fashion<br />
<br />
Printing clothing sounds like a very interesting concept. Most all the 3D printers print solids, but clothes would have to be flexible to wear. I would like to know what materials that they use and how comfortable the clothes really are. Also, most clothes are woven. So how does a 3D printer keep the fibers together without melting them together? Printing clothing seems like a novel idea, but not very practical in a large scale.<br />
<br />
<br />
Finding other 3D printing ideas is pretty easy. A quick search brought up some of the ones previously discussed like the houses and fashion, and also new ones like baseball bats, guns, sand castles, exoskeletons, and drugs. Since this technology can be used with many mediums there are people experimenting in all kinds of disciplines.<br />
<br />
== Blog 2 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The features that are being demonstrated do not seem to be impressive. Copy, paste, save and delete are all commands that we have become accustomed to. However, if it was the first time that I had ever seen these ideas I think that they would be amazing. Being able to automatically retype something, save anything, and have a method of moving across a screen that is not through the keyboard, revolutionizes a computer experience. I have used a DOS computer system and other programs that do not use a mouse and we don’t realize how amazing a mouse really is until it is gone. <br />
<br />
People’s initial reaction to the mother of all demos was that the whole thing was a hoax. Viewers didn’t believe that what he was doing was possible.<br />
I think that sharing your knowledge all depends on the outcome that we want. Sharing ideas is all about learning and progressing ideas. Keeping ideas secret and patenting them seems to all be in the hopes that money can be made. As a university we want all students here to understand the technology and all of the possibilities that it contains. So our goal should be to share the information to allow other people to learn. By sharing this information other people can add their ideas to ours and we can come up with new technologies to advance the 3D printing. I think that having all of our printers and information online is a great idea. The only way to make it better is to continue to add instructions and pictures so that anyone can easily understand and replicate the systems.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Blog 1 ==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Part A'''<br />
<br />
<br />
1. Even though I don't own a tablet, I thought that this tablet stand would be very nice to carry with you or to leave on a desk.<br />
2. I like motorcycles, so even though this is just a model I think that it is artistic and beautiful. <br />
3. Round tuits are worth a chuckle the first time but after that they have no point. <br />
4. Model of Mario. Funny/awesome. <br />
5. This is a four headed totem pole piece. It seems to not have a purpose and it is strange that someone would want one just to sit on their desk.<br />
<br />
<br />
1. useful http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23784 <br />
2. artistic http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42265 <br />
3. useless http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35377 <br />
4. funny http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24751 <br />
5. strange http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30852<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Part B'''<br />
<br />
<br />
I would like to think that I am sometimes a tinkerer. My Dad is definitely a tinkerer and has multiple projects that he has worked on in energy and sustainability. I believe that not only corporate mentality but schools have made people focus only on results. No boss wants their workers to fail 80% of the time, and you can't pass school with a 20% either. This focus on correctness I think has made people self-consciously give up if they don;t think that they can do it well in the first try. This mentality is completely reverse of good design and tinkering. "Fail often to succeed sooner" is a quote from David Kelley of IDEO that could be a motto for tinkerers.<br />
<br />
I think the biggest principle I got out of the interview is to always put yourself in the seat of the user, or watch how they react. The happier the user is the more successful the design will be. When I saw his rapid prototyper I was surprised that he didn't have one already. It is also a great idea. What better project for a kid than to use their creativity to build a prototyper that they can continue to design and experiment with. I think the main thing to remember is that it can always be improved. Think outside the box, most ideas are helpful as long as you build off them to improve.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Display_buttons_2.jpg&diff=89198File:Display buttons 2.jpg2013-04-18T21:56:07Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89197RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:55:51Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG [[File:Facing Tool.jpg|200px|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|200px|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|200px|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) This tool requires a 1/8 collet that clips into the tool holder. [[File:Center Drill.jpg|200px|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. This tool requires a small chuck to hold the bit which is held in a 1/8 collet that clips into the tool holder. [[File:Drill.jpg|200px|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
[[File:HAAS Machine Readout.jpg|200px|HAAS Machine Readout]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Close up of buttons.jpg|200px|Close up of buttons]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Close up of buttons 2.jpg|200px|Close up of buttons 2]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Display buttons 2.jpg|200px|Display buttons 2]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Run Screen.jpg|200px|Run Screen]]<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Close_up_of_buttons_2.jpg&diff=89196File:Close up of buttons 2.jpg2013-04-18T21:55:15Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89194RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:54:58Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG [[File:Facing Tool.jpg|200px|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|200px|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|200px|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) This tool requires a 1/8 collet that clips into the tool holder. [[File:Center Drill.jpg|200px|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. This tool requires a small chuck to hold the bit which is held in a 1/8 collet that clips into the tool holder. [[File:Drill.jpg|200px|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
[[File:HAAS Machine Readout.jpg|200px|HAAS Machine Readout]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Close up of buttons.jpg|200px|Close up of buttons]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Close up of buttons 2.jpg|200px|Close up of buttons 2]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Run Screen.jpg|200px|Run Screen]]<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Run_Screen.jpg&diff=89193File:Run Screen.jpg2013-04-18T21:54:13Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Close_up_of_buttons.jpg&diff=89192File:Close up of buttons.jpg2013-04-18T21:53:55Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89191RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:53:27Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG [[File:Facing Tool.jpg|200px|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|200px|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|200px|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) This tool requires a 1/8 collet that clips into the tool holder. [[File:Center Drill.jpg|200px|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. This tool requires a small chuck to hold the bit which is held in a 1/8 collet that clips into the tool holder. [[File:Drill.jpg|200px|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
[[File:HAAS Machine Readout.jpg|200px|HAAS Machine Readout]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Close up of buttons.jpg|200px|Close up of buttons]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Run Screen.jpg|200px|Run Screen]]<br />
<br />
[[File:HAAS Machine Readout.jpg|200px|HAAS Machine Readout]]<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:HAAS_Machine_Readout.jpg&diff=89189File:HAAS Machine Readout.jpg2013-04-18T21:52:03Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89188RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:51:45Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG [[File:Facing Tool.jpg|200px|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|200px|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|200px|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) This tool requires a 1/8 collet that clips into the tool holder. [[File:Center Drill.jpg|200px|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. This tool requires a small chuck to hold the bit which is held in a 1/8 collet that clips into the tool holder. [[File:Drill.jpg|200px|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
[[File:HAAS Machine Readout.jpg|200px|HAAS Machine Readout]]<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89187RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:49:46Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG [[File:Facing Tool.jpg|200px|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|200px|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|200px|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) This tool requires a 1/8 collet that clips into the tool holder. [[File:Center Drill.jpg|200px|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. This tool requires a small chuck to hold the bit which is held in a 1/8 collet that clips into the tool holder. [[File:Drill.jpg|200px|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89186RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:46:20Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG [[File:Facing Tool.jpg|200px|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|200px|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|200px|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) [[File:Center Drill.jpg|200px|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. [[File:Drill.jpg|200px|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89185RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:45:36Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG[[File:Facing Tool.jpg|200px|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|200px|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|200px|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|200px|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) [[File:Center Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. [[File:Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89184RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:45:06Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG[[File:Facing Tool.jpg|200px|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|thumbnail|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|thumbnail|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) [[File:Center Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. [[File:Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89183RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:44:53Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG[[File:Facing Tool.jpg|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|thumbnail|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|thumbnail|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) [[File:Center Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. [[File:Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89182RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:44:26Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG[[File:Facing Tool.jpg|200px|thumb|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|thumbnail|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|thumbnail|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) [[File:Center Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. [[File:Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89181RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:43:42Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG[[File:Facing Tool.jpg|thumbnail|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|thumbnail|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|thumbnail|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) [[File:Center Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. [[File:Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Cut-off_tool.jpg&diff=89180File:Cut-off tool.jpg2013-04-18T21:43:02Z<p>Djl5217: uploaded a new version of "File:Cut-off tool.jpg"</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Narrow_Cut-off_tool.jpg&diff=89179File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg2013-04-18T21:42:37Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89178RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:42:14Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG[[File:Facing Tool.jpg|thumbnail|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|thumbnail|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|thumbnail|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Narrow Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Narrow Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) [[File:Center Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. [[File:Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Drill.jpg&diff=89177File:Drill.jpg2013-04-18T21:41:31Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Center_Drill.jpg&diff=89176File:Center Drill.jpg2013-04-18T21:41:07Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Cut-off_tool.jpg&diff=89175File:Cut-off tool.jpg2013-04-18T21:40:42Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Threading_Tool.jpg&diff=89174File:Threading Tool.jpg2013-04-18T21:40:20Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Rough_Lathe.jpg&diff=89173File:Rough Lathe.jpg2013-04-18T21:39:58Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89172RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:39:39Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG[[File:Facing Tool.jpg|thumbnail|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. NO TOOL <br />
<br />
3. Rough lathe tool OD FINISH TURNING TOOL - 35 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.jpg|thumbnail|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.jpg|thumbnail|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. Narrow Cutoff OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool [[File:Cut-off tool.jpg|thumbnail|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
8. Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) [[File:Center Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
9. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. [[File:Drill.jpg|thumbnail|Drill]]<br />
<br />
10. NO TOOL<br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Facing_Tool.jpg&diff=89171File:Facing Tool.jpg2013-04-18T21:35:24Z<p>Djl5217: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89170RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:30:50Z<p>Djl5217: /* Setup */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool [[File:Facing Tool.png|thumbnail|Facing Tool]]<br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG. [[File:Rough Lathe.png|thumbnail|Rough Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG. [[File:Finish Lathe.png|thumbnail|Finish Lathe tool]]<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT [[File:Threading Tool.png|thumbnail|Threading tool]]<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT [[File:Cut-off tool.png|thumbnail|Cut-off tool]]<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.) [[File:Center Drill.png|thumbnail|Center Drill tool]]<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size. [[File:Drill.png|thumbnail|Drill]]<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89168RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:26:29Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89167RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:26:16Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89166RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:25:56Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89165RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:25:16Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|left|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|right|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89164RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:24:51Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|center|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89163RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:24:13Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|thumbnail|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89162RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:23:47Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|100px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|100px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89161RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:23:09Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumbnail|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|100px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|100px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89160RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:22:31Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, a model of the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|100px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the brass tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|100px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|100px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89159RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:21:34Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|100px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the brass tip ]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|100px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|100px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89158RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:20:39Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|thumb|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the brass tip ]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|150px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|150px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89157RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:19:52Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|upright|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the brass tip ]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|150px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|150px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89156RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:19:15Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|150px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the brass tip ]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|150px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|150px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89155RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:18:49Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg|200px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the brass tip ]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|200px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Detailed drawing of the steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png|200px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Model of the extruder plate]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89154RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:16:16Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|300px|frame|none|alt=Alt text|Caption text]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89152RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:15:15Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|100px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89150RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:14:28Z<p>Djl5217: /* Files */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg|alt=Alt text|Drawing of steel tip]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/Hot_Tip&diff=89149RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Hot Tip2013-04-18T21:09:11Z<p>Djl5217: /* Hot Tip Projects */</p>
<hr />
<div>= Hot Tip Projects =<br />
::::::::::::::::[[File:Hot_Tip.JPG|400px|link=Hot Tip]]<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Penn State has desiged and is manufacturing their own hot extruding tips. The hot tip consists of three components: The brass tip, the steel tube, and the teflon liner. The brass tip is made from brass bar stock supplied by the class. The tip is what extrudes the filament into layers. The steel tube holds the tip in place and screws into the extruder base plate. The teflon liner is inserted into the steel tube to allow the filament to slide easily into the brass tip. Using the manufactuing abilities that are available on campus, we are able to make brass tips with nozzle sizes of .5mm and .35mm. <br />
<br />
This page is to store and organize information on hot tip production for future students and others intersted in learing about hot tips.<br />
<br />
We are hoping to get .25mm tips made in the near future. Students working on the hot tip project are experienceing problems using drill bits that small. The attempt to make these fine tips with the CNC Lathe in the FAME lab is currently in progress.<br />
<br />
== Files ==<br />
<br />
Below are the solidwork files as well as the drawing for the hot tip. Additionally, the plate used to hold the tip is included.<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Steel_Tip.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_brass.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Tip_steel.SLDDRW]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.SLDPRT]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Brass Tip Drawing.jpeg]]<br />
<br />
100px[[File:Steel Tip Drawing.jpeg]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Extruder_Plate.png]]<br />
<br />
== Fame Lab CNC ==<br />
<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab in Leonhard Building was nice enough to allow us to use one of their CNC turning machines. We currently do not have a standing agreement in terms of using their space but are open to allowing us to use the facility if you ask. To inquire about the CNC machines at the Fame Lab you should first contact Mike Immel and then Scott Heckman. Explain that you are working on hot tips for this class and were wondering if you can utilize a CNC turning machine. <br />
<br />
After you get permission from Mike, you are going to be required to obtain a log-in account to the IE department network. Scott Heckman should be able to set this account up for you, but make sure to talk to Mike Immel first. Once the log-in has be obtained, the online safety videos and quizzes can be found [http://www.ie.psu.edu/IEIntranet/ToolMaterial/Certifications/MachineCertifications.html here]and complete the FAME Lab training. Don't worry the course doesn't take too long and using the CNC is definitely worth the time and effort. If you are only using the CNC Lathe, you should only have to complete the turing center videos.<br />
<br />
The Fame Lab does not like provide you with tools needed for the machines, but if you ask Dan (his office is in the corner of the lab and can usually be found in the lab somewhere) to borrow the tools and talk to him nicely, he probably will. Be very careful with the tools, don't break any of them or destroy anything or they will get really mad. Make sure to clean up everything when finished.<br />
<br />
Some hints about the Fame Lab. Make sure you know how to use mastercam or you will spend alot of time fustrated with the program and there isn't much help available from the lab guys. Make sure you know how to transfer, edit and read g code and use the lathes. NEVER trust the G code. Make sure you slow go through each line of the code and make the lathe prove that it will work. By stepping through the code slowly, you can avoid problems of crashing tools and destroying stuff.<br />
<br />
== Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
We are currently doing a combination of manual milling and CNC milling. For the brass tips we have created a CNC code so that the extruder hole and the whole outside part can be completed at one time. Then a manual lathe is used to drill the .125 hole. Both of these steps can be done in the FAME lab. The steel part can be completed in the FAME lab of the Learning Factory on the manual lathe.<br />
<br />
=== Lab Safety ===<br />
<br />
'''General Terms and Descriptions:''' <br />
<br />
'''Axes''': <br />
<br />
y-axis - forward/ backward. Axis measurements to .001 inches (one mil). <br />
<br />
x-axis- left/right. Big wheel. <br />
<br />
compound axis- Adjustable angle axis. This will be used for threading and for cutting the cone on the brass part.<br />
<br />
'''Gears''': We use high gear and low gear. Low gear is for threading only, and high gear is for any other type of cutting. A demonstration of this should be done in person. Change gears only when the lathe is off, and change speed only when it is on. <br />
<br />
Threading should be done at 80 RPM. For brass, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''. For steel, cutting is done at '''500 RPM'''.<br />
<br />
'''Tools''': This refers to the different cutting tips that go on the lathe. There are four that we use: facing, for cutting a flat side; turning, for reducing the diameter; threading, for cutting threads; and grooving, for cutting a groove. There is also a drill, which is separate from these tools.<br />
<br />
'''Mil''': This is a unit of measure, equal to .001 inches. This is what everything will be measured in.<br />
<br />
'''IMPORTANT STUFF''':<br />
<br />
'''BE SAFE. DON’T BE STUPID.'''<br />
<br />
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask a TA. They are pretty helpful, and they all know what they are doing. <br />
<br />
Before you do anything, think through it. From experience, it is really easy to ruin your part, and this can be avoided by not making any silly mistakes. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of the lathe before you use it.<br />
<br />
'''Some Tips and Tricks''': <br />
<br />
● When you are cutting threading, the best way to check if you are done is screw the threads into another part. Use emery cloth to sand down the threads a little bit. If you are worried about cutting to deep (especially on the steel part), you can finish the threads with a die. However, this is only for cleaning up and finishing the threads, not cutting them entirely.<br />
<br />
● When tapping or drilling, be very liberal with the cutting fluid, and use it frequently. If something starts smoking, back out the bit and give it a minute to rest. <br />
<br />
● Use your calipers early and often. It’s really easy to mess up the part because you didn’t measure something correctly the first time.<br />
<br />
=== Steel part ===<br />
<br />
'''1''' Use the horizontal band saw to cut a piece from the bar that is ~1/8 of an inch longer than the full length of the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Put the piece into the lathe, Less than half should be sticking out. Put the facing tool on the lathe.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Face the end of the part. Don’t take much material off, you just need a flat face.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Put in the turning tool. Touch off against the end of the part (x direction) to get a zero point. Then, touch off in the y direction and take note of the position to get a zero point here.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Cut down the smaller diameter. Do this by moving in steps of ~20 mils in the y direction, then moving along the part in the x direction. Watch the indicator to know how far to go. Make sure to check your diameter after a few times with a caliper to see how much is left to take off, as it is more accurate.<br />
<br />
'''6''' Move the cutting tool out of the way, and set up the drill with a centering bit. Cut a centering hole (not very deep) using plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Get a drill bit size 3/16. MEASURE THE BIT BEFORE YOU USE IT. DON’T TRUST PEOPLE TO PUT IT BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOT. Drill all the way through the part. Use plenty of cutting oil.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Put the threading tool on the lathe. On your left is a threading chart. Make sure that the levers are set to cut at 24 threads per inch. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the lathe into low gear.<br />
<br />
'''10''' Set the compound axis to 29.5 degrees. This will be what you use for depth of cut. The y axis is for backing away from the part only.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Touch off using the y axis, this is your zero point. Each time through the threads, return the y axis to exactly this point.<br />
<br />
'''12''' Move the x axis to the right a few inches. Look at the threading indicator (a spinny thing with numbers 1-4 on it). When it gets to a line, pull up the lever below it to engage. You may want to practice this a few times before you actually cut threads into the part. <br />
<br />
'''13''' Let the auto-threading run until just before the tip hits the shoulder of the part. At the same time, disengage the threading and back out the y axis several turns. If you don’t do both of these things simultaneously you will ruin the part.<br />
<br />
'''14''' Go through this process several times. Each time, move the compound axis in ~5 mils. In order to test if you are finished threading, get a 5/16-24 washer and see if it fits. When it gets close, take off only 2 mils at a time. It may help to use some emery cloth. Once the washer fits on, you are done this side of the part.<br />
<br />
'''15''' Put the machine back into high gear (lever forward, pin out). <br />
<br />
'''16''' Take out the part and turn in around. Put the facing tool on the lathe and cut a flat face on the other side of the part. Don’t take off too much, just enough to make a flat surface.<br />
<br />
'''17''' Take the part out again and measure its length. Put it back in the lathe, and face it to the correct length, in about 20 mil segments. <br />
<br />
'''18''' Get a drill bit size I. Check its diameter. Drill out the part to more than ½ inch depth.<br />
<br />
'''19''' Get a tap (5/16-24), a tap handle, and a supporter. With the piece still in the lathe, tap the hole. Go in 1-2 turns, then back out and spin the tap back and forth. Use lots of cutting oil, and every few turns back the tap all the way out and wipe it off. Keep going until you have tapped in about ½ inch.<br />
<br />
You are finished making the steel part. You should check everything over to make sure its correct. Blow out the inside of the part with compressed air to clean it. If the edge is sharp, you can deburr it with the sander. If you have a finished brass part, make sure it screws in.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== CNC Brass Part ===<br />
<br />
==== For .5 mm or .35 mm ====<br />
The brass part uses the HAAS lathe in the FAME lab. There is a training process that must be completed before using the FAME lab machines. After access and training are complete make sure that the lathe isn't reserved for other projects or reserve it yourself before starting. <br />
<br />
'''Gcode file'''<br />
<br />
This file needs to be put onto a floppy disk for the HAAS lathe. The FAME lab has floppy disks and a floppy writer if you need to use it.<br />
<br />
[[File:BrassTipgcode.txt | Brass Tip Gcode]]<br />
<br />
==== Setup ====<br />
<br />
'''Tools'''<br />
<br />
1. Facing Tool <br />
<br />
2. Rough lathe tool OD ROUGH RIGHT - 80 DEG.<br />
<br />
3. Finish lathe tool OD FINISH RIGHT - 35 DEG.<br />
<br />
4. Threading Tool OD THREAD RIGHT INSERT<br />
<br />
5. <br />
<br />
6. Cut-off tool OD GROOVE RIGHT - NARROW INSERT<br />
<br />
7.Center drill .125 dia (SPOT TOOL .25 DIA.)<br />
<br />
8. .5mm drill (DRILL .125 DIA.) The tool name is .125 but it is the .5 mm drill size.<br />
<br />
9. <br />
<br />
10. <br />
<br />
'''Material'''<br />
<br />
Put the bar stock into the machine. It needs to be sticking out 1.5 inches from the chuck. The first time you may need to have it stick out a little farther and machine a flat face on the material. <br />
<br />
'''Zeroing'''<br />
<br />
Note: Please ask someone in the lab BEFORE beginning this procedure. It is not too difficult but a small mistake could break the tools or machine.<br />
<br />
Each tool needs to be zeroed before running the program. This is done on the X axis by slowly moving the tool into the spinning part and machining a new diameter. Then measure the diameter and input that value into the machine. The Z axis is similar except the part is not spinning. Slowly move the tool towards the part while holding a small piece of paper between part and tool. When they are close enough that moving the paper between them gets a little tight STOP. This distance -.003" is the zero position of the tool.<br />
<br />
'''Running the program'''<br />
<br />
When you are ready to run the program ASK someone to run it the first time to make sure that the program works correctly the first time. After that the program should be able to run all the way through by itself. The material will need to be pulled out 1.5" after each pass.<br />
<br />
==== Manual Lathe Brass Part ====<br />
'''1''' Put the brass bar into the lathe. Face off the part.<br />
<br />
'''2''' The next tool you will need is the turning tool. You will machine the bottom half (the one with the cone) first. <br />
::'''a''' You should set up a zero point at the end of the rod. Make sure you also touch off on the y axis.<br />
<br />
'''3''' Cut the first diameter (the side with the cone). <br />
<br />
'''4''' Set up the compound axis at 45 degrees. The handle should be facing away from you. The compound axis will be making the cut, which is a<br />
good check to see if it is set up correctly. <br />
'''5''' Make the cut with the compound axis, and take the depth of cut using the x- axis. Take very small cuts, and try to only cut in one<br />
direction (so that the bit is pushing, not pulling). <br />
::'''a''' this part is finished when you have a sharp cone. It’s time to stop when you are no longer cutting the cone and are only shortening the piece. There isn’t really a good way to measure this, just eyeball it. <br />
<br />
'''6''' Cut the threading on the long end. This doesn’t actually thread into anything, it is where the nichrome wire lies. Try to make the grooves<br />
wide enough so that the wire will fit.<br />
<br />
'''7''' Take out the part and flip it around.<br />
<br />
'''8''' Using the turning tool, cut down the diameter of the back end.<br />
::'''a''' BE REALLY CAREFUL HERE. The tool will be VERY close to the chuck on the lathe. DO NOT hit the lathe with it, you will break something. If necessary, angle the tool away a little bit so that it will not hit the lathe. <br />
::'''b''' If you are unsure how to do this part without breaking something, please ask for help. It is a huge pain to recenter the lathe, which will have to be done if you knock it. <br />
<br />
'''9''' Put the grooving tool on the lathe, and cut the groove. You only need to cut one width of the tool. Depth isn’t critical, but be careful not to cut so deep that it will interfere with the hole for the filament. <br />
<br />
'''10''' Cut the threading. This is slightly easier than all of the other threading, because of the groove. It allows you to first stop the feeding and then back away from the part, rather than doing both at the same time.<br />
<br />
'''11''' Cut the hole for the filament. Make sure to use a centering bit first, then the .125 drill bit. The idea is to cut as deep as possible without actually coming out the other end. The better you do at this, the less likely someone is to break a drill bit cutting the tiny hole. <br />
<br />
'''12''' Congrats! You’re finished. Make sure everything fits together, and that it generally looks right. Check against another tip that has already been machined. All that’s left is to drill the .5mm hole and put in some teflon tubing.<br />
<br />
'''13''' The tiny hole is drilled using a chuck, centering bit, and drill bit that are from the RepRap class, not the learning factory. Please try to keep them separate. The hole is drill from the outside of the piece, not the inside. Use as high RPM as possible while still being safe (~2200). Be careful, it’s really easy to snap the drill bit, and that is bad.<br />
<br />
<br />
==== For <.5mm (2012 version)====<br />
<br />
You will have to use the CNC lathe program below: <br />
:[[File:311220DAVIDSTJOHN_1.MCX-6]]<br />
<br />
::'''Note:''' Please read section 1.5 before using the CNC lathe. In order to use the CNC lathe you must first obtain permission from the Fame Lab as complete a safety course. Information can be found in section 1.5 of this page. Please read them. <br />
'''1''' Load piece into CNC Lathe with 1.5" sticking out.<br />
<br />
'''2''' Set machine up with program, load your tools, and set your axes, as learned in FAME Lab training.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''3''' Start machine and let program run.<br />
<br />
'''4''' Clean up machine when done making all pieces.<br />
<br />
'''5''' Follow steps 8-13 for back-side of part.<br />
<br />
== Redesign ==<br />
<br />
11.30.12 (In Progress) - We are currently working on redesigning the steel tip to include a smaller teflon piping to allow more space for the threads screwing into the hot plate. Updated solidworks drawings will be added when complete. With a smaller sized hole, we are working inserting a aluminum oxide rod to allow for higher temperature melting.</div>Djl5217