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2024-03-29T08:13:22Z
User contributions
MediaWiki 1.30.0
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RUMBA%2B&diff=189847
RUMBA+
2022-12-03T01:22:06Z
<p>DavidCary: fill in a few details, with references.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|status = working<br />
|author=<br />
|name = RUMBA+<br />
|reprap = RAMPS<br />
|categories = {{tag|Electronics}}; {{tag|8/16-bit board}}<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== RUMBA+ ==<br />
===Summary===<br />
The RUMBA+ is a motherboard for 3D printer or similar applications. It is a new variant of the [[RUMBA]].<br />
It was developed by Makerbase.<br />
It adds Touchscreen (TFT) controller capability to the RUMBA.<br />
The TFT makes it possible to add power loss and resume detection, wi fi capability, filament detection, and filament load /unloading.<br />
<br />
The RUMBA+ is compatible with most RepRap firmware<br />
-- [[Sprinter]], [[Repetier-Firmware]], [[Marlin]], [[Teacup Firmware]], etc.<br />
<br />
RUMBA+ is fully open source -- the source is available on GitHub.<br />
(-- [https://blog.aus3d.com.au/rumba-control-board/ "RUMBA+ Control Board"])<br />
<br />
* github: https://github.com/Aus3D/RUMBA-Plus<br />
* [https://wiki.aus3d.com.au/RUMBA_Plus "Aus 3D wiki: RUMBA Plus"]<br />
* [https://chrisbarrbuilds.com/rumba-vs-ramps-a-thermal-analysis/ "RUMBA+ vs RAMPS: A Thermal Analysis"]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Development_Pathway&diff=189846
Development Pathway
2022-12-02T22:46:14Z
<p>DavidCary: categorize, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>=Working Notes, please log in and edit!=<br />
<br />
These should be autogenerated by the 'Development' catagory or template. Or integrated in some other manner.<br />
<br />
[[Development]]<br />
<br />
As we mention when discussing the [[Combinatorics Problem]],<br />
a new design can be "better" from some other design in many different ways.<br />
<br />
Erik de Bruijn lists these broad areas of potential improvements:<br />
<ref><br />
Erik de Bruijn.<br />
[http://thesis.erikdebruijn.nl/master/MScThesis-ErikDeBruijn-2010.pdf "On the viability of the open source development model for the design of physical objects. Lessons learned from the RepRap project"].<br />
2010.<br />
In particular, "3.1.3 Technological innovations" and "Appendix C".<br />
</ref><br />
* Added functionality:<br />
** Use of ceramics and pastes instead of thermoplastics<br />
** The ability to function in subtractive as well as additive operating modes (e.g., Hydra-MMM).<br />
** The ability to mix multiple materials.<br />
** Embedding wire and conductive materials<br />
* extended auxiliary tools (Erik de Bruijn, "On the viability ..."; "3.1.3 Technological innovations")<br />
* Improved existing functionality<br />
** Faster, more efficient, more detailed and/or stronger output<br />
* Increased ease of assembly and use<br />
* Lower cost<br />
* More suitable components (e.g. easier-to-acquire)<br />
* Specialization towards a certain application<br />
** Digital pottery system<br />
* Interoperability with other systems<br />
** Compatibility with G-Code common in industrial CNC installations<br />
** platform independent software<br />
* Improved design architecture (e.g. modularization, part consolidation)<br />
* Refining operating techniques<br />
* Improved sharing infrastructure<br />
<br />
Better electronics is discussed at [[Alternative Electronics]].<br />
Better host software is discussed at [[Host software Variations]].<br />
Many ideas for making things better are listed at [[ideas to place]] and [[FuturePlans]].<br />
<br />
Ideas for a better website, enabling easier collaboration, are discussed at [[Library/Notes]].<br />
<br />
=Increased Resolution=<br />
* [[microstepping with optical feedback]]<br />
* [[CamRap]]<br />
<br />
=Materials Selection=<br />
<br />
discussions of the pros and cons of various frame materials go in [[frame material]].<br />
<br />
discussions of the various materials that can be shaped by a RepRap are currently at [[MaterialsScience]].<br />
<br />
discussions of the various techniques used to shape various materials are currently at [[Materials/Appropriate Machines]].<br />
<br />
discussions of particular tool heads used on a RepRap to shape particular materials are at [[RepRapToolHeads]] and [[FutureToolIdeas]].<br />
<br />
=== [[Laser Cutter]] ===<br />
<br />
=== [[SLSRap]] ===<br />
[[SLSRap]] is a RepRap which [[SLS]]s its own optics fixtures like lens holders and so on.<br />
<br />
''By SLS, are you referring to selective laser sintering [[SLS Printer]] ?''<br />
<br />
=Post-Mendel Designs=<br />
*[[Eiffel]]<br />
*[[MetalicaRap]]<br />
<br />
= Basic Box =<br />
[[RBS/Basic Box | Basic Box]] is a waypoint to developing a [[RBS]] [[SplineScan]] cabinet.<br />
<br />
=RepStraps=<br />
*[[FlatPack]] RepStrap<br />
*[[Extruded Aluminum RepStrap]]<br />
*[[Large Wooden Box RepStrap]]<br />
<br />
=Increased Build Area=<br />
<br />
[[Development:Mendel Apollo]] and<br />
[[MegaRap]]<br />
<br />
=== MegaRap ===<br />
'''[[Mendel]] is great, but I can currently<br />
* Carry it through a standard doorway<br />
* Lift it by myself<br />
* Fit it in the back seat or trunk of a car<br />
* Use it on a corner of my desk (as opposed to a dedicated room in a house, or a shed, garage, or barn)<br />
'''<br />
<br />
We at RepRap agree [[scaling]] is a real problem. That's why <span style="font-size:250%">MegaMendel</span> is here to help!<br />
<br />
Gert Joergensen has built the [[MegaMendel]], a mighty machine with a build area of 766mm x 453mm x 497mm.<br />
<br />
Some [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,176260 "Need bigger surface!"] ideas for scaling up to 200 mm x 400 mm heated bed, might apply to even larger scales.<br />
<br />
There's been some discussion [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,129040 "RepRap / RepStrap for making Aerodynamic Models"] circa 500mm x 500mm x 500mm.<br />
<br />
There's been some discussion of a [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?152,132060 "1 x 1 m print area reprap"].<br />
<br />
Someone<sup>who?</sup> has built [[LeBigRep]], an even bigger machine with a build area of 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm.<br />
-- a [[Cubic Meter Bot]].<br />
<br />
Perhaps you can [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,169146 "Help me design a large Rostock"] 4ft diameter (1.2 m diameter).<br />
<br />
If that is not big enough,<br />
[[MegaRap]] is a (currently hypothetical) RepRap. It may be a [[PourStrap]] or [[WeldStrap]] and is definitely a [[CNC Router]] which can process 4 ft x 8 ft sheets of plywood, foam, etc.<br />
See [[CNC router#BigRap]], [[RouterStrap]].<br />
<br />
Many people would like a CNC machine big enough to hold a "full-sized sheet" of 1.2 m × 2.4 m ( 4 feet × 8 feet, aka "four by eight" or "48 x 96") sheet of [[Wikipedia: plywood]] or MDF or other [[Wikipedia: engineered wood]] or foam, etc.; and then cut it into [[FlatPack]] parts.<br />
<br />
Are there any good ideas we can take from larger devices -- the [http://openfarmtech.org/index.php/Torch_Table_Build open-source torch table], the [[RouterStrap#MechMate]], etc. -- that we can scale down and apply to the MegaRap?<br />
<br />
The [[B&TRap]] -- using 3 cords -- can, in principle, be easily expanded to any size.<br />
<br />
=[[PourStrap]]=<br />
<br />
=== FlatPack PourStrap ===<br />
A [[Flatpack PourStrap]] is a [[PourStrap]] where the mold is made from sheets of acrylic or wood. The sheets are cut using a laser cutter, cnc router, or table saw.<br />
<br />
= Better electronics ==<br />
<br />
: ''main article: [[Alternative Electronics#Goals]]''<br />
<br />
=Library=<br />
Along with a few dozen post-mendel and RepStrap designs, we want a [[library]] of [[Library/6x10000s Problem|10,000 or so things]] to make with RepRaps.<br />
<br />
See [[Available Files]] for parts we already have in our library.<br />
<br />
== more self-replicating ==<br />
''main: [[About#Machine_Self-Replication]]; [[:Category:Self-Replication]]; [[self replicating reprap]].''<br />
<br />
How can we tweak the design of a RepRap to make it more self-reproducing?<br />
<br />
''(Is there a page that talks about "tweaking the design to make it more self-reproducing"? Please move the following ideas be moved to that page.)''<br />
<br />
Adrian Bowyer's work changed the lives of some people such as architectural students who print models of buildings and entire cities, engineering students who print models of gears and get a much more intuitive understanding of how they fit together, etc.<br />
Before Adrian Bowyers work, those students couldn't even afford to rent time on a prototyping machine, much less own their own machine.<br />
<br />
But some researchers feel that the current crop of low-cost fully-assembled prototyping machines based on Adrian's work, while they arguably work even better at printing models of buildings and gears, misses out on some world-changing ideas:<br />
* A few people at a single location at a single company mass-producing identical machines is inevitably going to come up with ideas for improvement at a slower rate than a diverse collection of people all over the planet, each one building on the work of people that came before and sharing improvements to the people who come after.<br />
* Rather than shipping a complete machine -- or even all the parts of a complete machine -- to someone that wants one, material costs and shipping costs and shipping time and time-to-build can potentially be reduced even further by taking advantage of local materials and local manufacturing capacity. (Ideally *everything* can be sourced locally, completely eliminating shipping time).<br />
* Given a primitive early version of a RepRap, it is in principle possible to directly print out and assemble a much later, vastly improved RepRap, and then (indirectly) print out and assemble the very latest RepRap with all the latest capabilities.<br />
* If everyone who builds a RepRap prints out 2 complete sets of parts and sends them to 2 other people who then build a RepRap (who continue the chain for 33 levels), everyone on the planet can have one -- see [[doubling time]].<br />
* Darwinian Marxism, as described in [[Wealth Without Money]]: when each machine is individually built and owned by the person who is going to use it, and each person contributes some improvement, no matter how small, then the improvements accumulate.<br />
<br />
Many people find the idea of a [[Wikipedia: self-replicating machine]], in particular machines that have a [[doubling time]], fascinating to think about.<br />
Adrian Bowyer's [[Wealth Without Money]] essay mentions<br />
a "a rapid-prototyping machine that can make all its components other than" a short list of critical components, and hints at "the desirable aim of shortening or eliminating [that list] altogether."<br />
RepRap researchers often metaphorically refer to parts on that short list as [[vitamin]]s.<br />
People discussing a [[RepLab]] or [[:category: RepRap machines]]<br />
often use phrases such as the "reprappiness factor"[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,206458,255328#msg-255328] or [[User:Spiritdude#Replicability | "replicability factor"]] or [[User:Spiritdude#Replicability Factor | "RepRap Factor"]] or "more replicable"[http://benjamin-engel.blogspot.com/2012/07/ben-bot.html] or [[Alt Select Mechanics | "% RepRap-able" ]] or "largely self reproducing" or "mostly self-replicating" or "largely self replicating" or "the percentage of the device that is printable" or "100% [[Self replicating reprap]]".<br />
<br />
Several researchers are developing ways to reduce the vitamins required to build a functional 3D printer:<br />
* printable actuators -- eliminating non-printable stepper motors -- [[Actuator Fabrication]]<br />
* printable frame -- eliminating [[threaded rod]] used in the frame -- [[Tantillus]], [[GolemB]], etc.<br />
* printable motion control -- eliminating linear and rotary bearings, or the smooth rods and threaded rod used as screw drive, or both -- [[Bamboo Printer]], [[PLA bushings]], [[:Category:Printable bearing]], Ben Bot[[http://benjamin-engel.blogspot.com/2012/07/ben-bot.html]], etc.<br />
* printable electronics -- [[Automated Circuitry Making]]; [[Mechanical Computer]]<br />
* printable fasteners -- eliminating nuts and bolts and other non-printable fasteners -- [[MultiRep]], [[MTM Snap]], etc.<br />
<br />
However, other researchers are keeping the same or increasing the vitamins, in order to reach [[#Other design goals]].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Ruggedisation ===<br />
''main article: [[Ruggedisation]]''<br />
<br />
=== objectively measuring more or less self-replicating ===<br />
<br />
Alas, there seems to be a lot of confusion about whether a machine is "self-replicating",<br />
and about how to measure how self-replicating it is.<br />
''(TODO: summarize comments on this topic from''<br />
''[[ConvertingARepStrapToAFull-blownRepRap]],''<br />
''[[Talk:Orca#Re: whether it.27.3Bs a "true reprap" or not:]],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,172844 "Convergence to self replicating"],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,202918,203672#msg-203672 "Dreaming of a Static Motor Arrangement and Less Vitamins"],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,37085 "95% reprappable repraps"],''<br />
''etc.).''<br />
Everyone agrees that a (common) machine built of parts, a machine that cannot print out *any* of those parts, is not self-replicating. At best it is a [[RepStrap]].<br />
Everyone agrees that a (hypothetical) machine that one can drop on an asteroid, in total isolation, and the machine somehow harvests iron and rock and sunlight and transforms it into all the parts needed to build 2 machines identical to the original machine, is "100% self replicating",<br />
a [[fully printable reprap]].<br />
But in-between cases are not so clear.<br />
<br />
A variety of ways to objectively measure how "self-replicating" one machine is (a "metric") have been proposed.<br />
So far, all of these metrics have some flaw or another.<br />
<br />
* '''minimize vitamin/total weight ratio.''' Flaw: adding a bunch of non-functional plastic spikes to each printed part increases the total weight of the machine, artificially improving this measure, but most people would say that is not a real improvement.<br />
* '''maximize the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,160546,160598#msg-160598 "actual volume of printed parts"]''' Flaw: adding a bunch of non-functional plastic spikes to each printed part increases the total weight of the machine, artificially improving this measure, but most people would say that is not a real improvement.<br />
* '''minimize total cost of the vitamins.''' Flaw: because of currency fluctuations and shipping cost variations, this is arguably not an objective measure. Also, replacing two euros worth of bolts that I can get tonight, with a hundred euros worth of plastic parts that would take me days to print out, seems counter-productive.<br />
* '''minimize total cost.''' through various [[Cost Reduction]] ideas. Flaw: one way to do this is to freeze the design and use mass-production high-volume manufacturing techniques to improve the economy of scale, but that misses out on the "continuous improvement" possible when each RepRap built can be different and possibly better than the next. Also, because of currency fluctuations and shipping cost variations, this is arguably not an objective measure.<br />
** cost of vitamins (including shipping)<br />
** cost of raw plastic feedstock<br />
** cost of printing (electricity, especially for heated bed)<br />
** labor cost * assembly time (see [[doubling time]])<br />
* '''minimize time to assemble.''' Many researchers have pointed out that time-to-assemble is far more important than initially realized -- [[RepRapBreeding]], [[RepRap Breeder]], [[Bonsai RepStrap]], [[Walkabout]], [[:Category: Loaner Program]], [[Print It Forward]], etc. Flaw: If I buy some (allegedly) ready-to-go machine, this time is (allegedly) zero. But most people would say this isn't really self-replicating.<br />
* '''minimize [[doubling time]]''' -- time to assemble from parts, plus time to print out a new set of parts and wait for the remaining vitamins to be shipped in. Flaw: If I buy some nearly-ready-to-go machine and insert a single part into that machine, and then the machine can print out only that one single part (the rest of the machine is "vitamins"), this time can be very short (overnight shipping plus time-to-insert), but most people would say this isn't very self-replicating.<br />
* '''minimize the number of unique vitamins'''. Flaw: one obvious "improvement" that improves this measure is to reduce the unique parts from "threaded rod, nuts, bolts" to "threaded rod, nuts" -- by replace each bolt with a piece of studding cut to the same length as the original bolt plus a nut or two to act as the head. Is this really an improvement?<br />
* '''minimize the number of exotic, single-source parts''', replacing them with "jellybean" parts available from multiple sources<br />
* '''minimize the cost and weight of the tools required to make the parts of the machine''': Replace parts that can only be made on a quarter-million-dollar machine with parts that can be turned on a big $20,000 manual lathe. Replace parts that can only be made on a big lathe with parts that can be made with a small $2,000 desktop CNC machine mill. Replace parts that can only be made with a lathe or CNC with parts that can be cut with a $200 circular saw. Replace parts that require at least a circular saw with parts that can be cut with a $20 hand saw. For example, the [[ScrewRap]] with its "Minimal tools" goal. Flaw: it is unclear whether designs using lots of [[T-Slot]] should be considered highly replicable by this criteria -- considering the T-slot as raw material that can relatively easily be cut by low-cost tools -- or whether it is not very replicable by this criteria -- since it requires highly specialized equipment to make the T-slot from aluminum stock.<br />
* Certain RepRap subassemblies have been designed to be "easy to make", "do-it-yourselfable" -- in particular, many [[Gen7 Stories]] show hand-built electronics using off-the-shelf prototyping board that can be easily customized. Designs using [[:category: through-hole electronics]] and prototyping board are sometimes said to be more self-replicating than most [[category: surface-mount electronics]] that require a custom mass-produced PCB with higher up-front NRE costs and tiny parts that seem to be impossible to hand-solder.<br />
* '''minimize the number of parts that have to be shipped in from distant places''', replacing them with locally-sourced parts or printed parts. [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,160546,160770#msg-160770 "build a printer from whatever you can find in a local hardware store."]<br />
* A set of machines, each of which can't make *any* of its own parts, but which collectively can make all of the parts of every machine in the set (what [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,172844,175259#msg-175259 MattMoses calls "Cyclic Fabrication Systems"]), are sometimes said to be self-replicating. See [[RepLab]].<br />
* Machines that can build all the parts for [[solar cell manufacturing]] factories that can produce solar cells that can power the original machines are sometimes said to be more self-replicating that machines that rely on the electrical power grid, but this idea isn't captured by any of the above proposed measurements.<br />
<br />
Is there some objective measure of "percent self-replicating" that avoids these flaws?<br />
<br />
== Other design goals ==<br />
<br />
Some researchers have yet other design goals or [[TRap#Design Philosophy | "design philosophy"]].<br />
<br />
Some researchers deliberately tweak a design in ways that make it less self-replicating -- i.e., a "Vitamin-Rich RepRap" (see [[Kludgebot]]) -- in attempts to satisfy other design goals:<br />
<br />
* Simplicity<br />
** fewer unique kinds of parts -- it's much quicker to find a certain kind of part in a pile of 100 parts of 2 kinds than to find a certain kind of part in a pile of 50 parts, all of them unique. Also, bulk discounts often make it cost much less to buy 100 bolts in 2 different sizes than 50 bolts, each one unique.<br />
** fewer total number of parts -- reducing the assembly time. ([[LaserCut Mendel]], [[MakiBox]], [[R 360]], etc. mention this as a goal).<br />
* small and rugged to make [[transportation]] easier.<br />
* [[education]]<br />
** Using a 3D printer helps develop certain skills. What features of a RepRap or RepStrap help people develop those skills?<br />
** Building a 3D printer helps develop certain other skills. What features of a RepRap or RepStrap help people develop those skills? As a negative example, if a design is so difficult to assemble that many people give up on the project -- I'm looking at you, [[McWire (Death March: Do not build!!!)]] -- then those people can be tricked into thinking they aren't smart enough to assemble any 3D printer -- "learned helplessness".<br />
* ...<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
A few other design goals are mentioned at [[ideas to place]].<br />
<br />
= Further reading =<br />
<br />
* these Development Pathway notes may slightly replicate and encapsulate the [[Gada Prize]] stuff.<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,76497,76702 "Design a perfect 3D printer"] asks: "If you can design a 'perfect' 3D printer, what would you do?"<br />
<br />
=References=<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Community suggestions]]<br />
[[Category:Development| ]]<br />
[[Category:RepStrap| ]]<br />
[[Category:CNC machines| ]]<br />
[[Category:LaserCut| ]]<br />
[[Category:SLS| ]]<br />
[[Category:Self-Replication]]<br />
[[Category:RepRap Interface Standard]]<br />
[[Category:Standards]]<br />
[[Category:Theory & Research]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=GolemC_heart&diff=189845
GolemC heart
2022-12-02T21:44:44Z
<p>DavidCary: categorize, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>== '''yru's exstruder - golem's accessible Heart - yegahC (from golemC project)''' ==<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''check new version - http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Yegah''' ==<br />
<br />
[[yegah]]<br />
<br />
openSCAD SOURCE RELEASED under GPL - [[File:YegahC_rel_20121223.scad]]<br />
<br />
kickstart to custom gears CAUTION! verify diameters! [[Media:YegahC_xmasgears.tar.gz]]<br />
<br />
and 33mm should work with old stl [[Media:YegahC_33mm.tar.gz]]<br />
<br />
new extruder, thought out from scratch to be compact, simple, accesible and light. for the golemC "stone" printer<br />
<br />
still fine tuning design, stl's soon, openSCAD files will follow.<br />
<br />
it's designed around my very first aproach to drive roller, refinded by trial and error. instructions how to mill one will follow, feel free to make one for yourself but please, if you want to buy one, make sure the autor gets some material credit and buy here (http://mojreprap.pl/index.php?route=product/category&path=24) or contact me.<br />
<br />
small crescend shaped teeth grab firmly (5 kilo for the smooth compact one from the vid) while cutting in with ease. se here for easy cut in: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtdbHg0bXEE<br />
and here for gravity feed: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIRYETuT_ZM<br />
<br />
6mm shaft and small 6x13x5 ball bearings reduce weight to about 90g without engine (the red body/black gear ones)<br />
<br />
no springs yet it adapts to minor filament changes - idler is mounted via elastic PVC pipe.<br />
<br />
it's milled to fit 3mm filament, but works fine with 1.75 too. still, i will try to make even smaller design for 1.75mm specific.<br />
<br />
2 base flavours:<br />
- compact - more mendel friendly<br />
<br />
[[File:compact_626.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
- big gear ratio for open top printers and heavy filament pumping<br />
<br />
[[File:Tall 686.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
beta stl, openSCAD sources need some more work. I plan on giving them out for x-mas :) <-- so, x-mas came early this year :)<br />
<br />
[[File:yegahC_3mm_21112012.stl.gz]]<br />
<br />
assembly and tuning video:<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8qm2hG6ii8&feature=youtu.be ASSEMBLY]<br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uLmPNsXECg&feature=youtu.be TUNING]<br />
<br />
[[Category:GolemC]]<br />
[[Category:Extruders]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Category:MDF&diff=189844
Category:MDF
2022-12-02T21:42:40Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>'''MDF''' is the abbreviation for '''M'''edium-'''d'''ensity '''f'''ibreboard. ([[MDF]])<br />
<br />
'''Medite''' is a version of '''MDF''' but made without using urea-formaldehyde<br />
<br />
[[Category:Material]]<br />
[[Category:wood]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=SmartBoxRap_6%22&diff=189843
SmartBoxRap 6"
2022-12-02T21:42:18Z
<p>DavidCary: categorize, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = LasercutV6.jpg<br />
|name = SmartBoxRap 6"<br />
|description = A derivative of [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Smartrap_mini Smartrap mini]. Low cost low tech. <br />
|license = [[]]<br />
|author = Bodgeit<br />
|reprap = Smartrap mini<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Huxley RepStrap|Huxley RepStrap]] [[Category:Huxley RepStrap]], [[:Category:Huxley|Huxley]] [[Category:Huxley]], {{tag|FlatPack}}, {{tag|LaserCut}}, {{tag|MDF}}, [[:Category:Cartesian-XZ-head|XZ-head]] [[Category:Cartesian-XZ-head]], {{tag|Wood}}<br />
|url = [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:293641 SmartBoxRAP 6"]<br />
|version =0.1<br />
}} <br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
For the last Five years I have been building various [http://repstrapbertha.blogspot.com RepStrap versions of Darwin and Mendel] trying to devise simple ways to build these printed self replicating machines.<br />
SmartBoxRap 6" is based on all of the experience gained building the previous RepStraps.<br />
<br />
==Features==<br />
<br />
Belt drive, Bowden Extruder, [http://reprap.org/wiki/J-Head_Lite J-Head_Lite], Heated Bed, Removable print plate. True 6" cube print volume.<br />
1-2 hour build time > 50 screws<br />
<br />
== Statistics ==<br />
<br />
'''Build plate''' 160mm x 170mm <br />
'''Heated bed''' 160mm x 160mm<br />
'''Build Volume''' 152.4mm x 152.4x 152.4 or 6" cubed</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Jy-mcu&diff=189842
Jy-mcu
2022-12-02T21:28:55Z
<p>DavidCary: fix so this is shown in the category:working developments list.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|picture = [jy-mcu_f.jpg]<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = Jy-mcu bluetooth<br />
|description = simplify bt connection to reprap <br />
|license = GPL<br />
|author = jamesdanielv<br />
|reprap = <br />
|categories = {{tag|Wireless 3D printing}}<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== How to print over Bluetooth ==<br />
<br />
One way to cut the cable between your laptop and your RepRap:<br />
<br />
[[File:jy-mcu_f.jpg|300px]] [[File:jy-mcu_b.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
Replace<br />
* The USB cable and the FTDI USB-to-TTL-RS232 adapter<br />
with 2 Bluetooth radios:<br />
* Many or most laptops already have a Bluetooth radio built in<br />
* The TTL-RS232 serial pins of the RepRap controller board can be directly connected to the "jy-mcu" board or similar Bluetooth adapter.<br />
<br />
jy-mcu is a board that contains the hardware of the hc-03,hc05,hc06 chipsets. compatibility is the same as they all accept the same at commands, however voltage levels may be different, so use caution if it is not on a board with 4 pin headers.<br />
<br />
This is a bt adapter that is used on some reprap with bt connection. Also will provide detailed instructions on how to setup with using android device only.<br />
YOU WILL WANT TO READ COMMENTS IN CODE because there is a line that needs to be changed for it to work and not error out with code stating to read code. this just prevents changing baud rate accidentally when bt device is just plugged in. <br />
[[File:BT_Connection_RAMPS1.4.png|400px]]<br />
<br />
Bluetooth is a wireless technology used for short range communications. Bluetooth has protocols that allow it to mimic serial communications and this makes it perfect for use with arduino, and on a ramps board for 3d printing software controls such as pronterface, and repetier host.<br />
<br />
Also it allows programing to be done on any device that has arduino ide. this includes PC, Mac, ubuntu, and android.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
here is a video of it working on a reprap.<br />
<br />
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZO8BniV1xI&lc=ShtOIYGwn4AhHoBuM1LTSm9Suhi8WjYiwIZM74MbKF0<br />
<br />
here is a program i made that runs on arduino ide and automatically detects baud rate and sets up device.<br />
'''''You will need to manually cut and paste to link to downloads, because of setup change on host web site.'''''<br />
http://forums.reprap.org/file.php?156,file=18939,filename=bt_magic_v1.ino,download=1 (bt_magic.ino for arduino)<br />
<br />
https://reprap.org/forum/file.php?156,file=111589,filename=bt_magic_uno.ino,download=1 (this version works on uno. was uploaded may31,2019)<br />
<br />
runs on version 1 of arduino ide. also serial monitor needs to be at 57600 and set to no line ending. cr and line need to be disabled for serial monitor.<br />
<br />
Now there is a version that runs with software serial, so it works on basically anything ported to arduino that can run software serial library. tested on arduino 1.5, but should work as far back as 1.0 i recently updated it so it works on mega,adk,and other arduino devices. still i think that hardware serial version above should be used first. the software serial version as of 1/8/2015 and bt magic still have some issues with communication above 19200 baud. so i would recommend if it detect your bt device, to change baud rate settings last if you use the software serial version. so change device name, password, then change baud rate. I'm looking at my own method to keep communications stable for software serial bt. I'm open to help and suggestions. thank-you!<br />
<br />
http://forums.reprap.org/file.php?156,file=46010,filename=bt_magic_update.zip,download=1 (softwareserialbtmagic) recently updated. you will still need to read script before compiling. <br />
<br />
here is a video of the program used to setup bluetooth adapter <br />
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtPqC1PASQY link title]<br />
<br />
SETUP with android devices requires a ON THE GO CABLE and the following free apps to be installed<br />
Arduino Communicator (to setup usb comm), arduino droid, and free usb serial. free usb serial app acts as the terminal because the system monitor does not yet exist in android version of arduino ide.<br />
<br />
<br />
I will do another video soon (using a better camera), and add multicomm port program ability.<br />
<br />
enjoy!. questions or comments or feedback contact me on the forum. thanks!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== troubleshooting ===<br />
<br />
if issues with detecting device, first shorten tx/rx lines to be less than 6 inch.<br />
If that doesn't work, try changing<br />
if (detect < 2) {x=0; Serial.println("_no");}<br />
to<br />
if (detect < 1) {x=0; Serial.println("_no");}<br />
This allows for detection even when serial receiving timing is off, usually from the dual interrupt. chip should program fine as serial2 data is all sent at once.<br />
<br />
<br />
On boards version 1.06 and possibly later, the baud rate may not be detected at all. Try adding a pullup resistor to the Bluetooth Module's TX line (the RX line on the Arduino). Even better, you can use the Arduino internal pull-up resistor by adding line '''pinMode(17, INPUT_PULLUP);''' to the above Arduino code (see [http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/PinMode here] for more info).<br />
<br />
==A simple way to change BT module settings - apparently using ftdi chip, but not recommended==<br />
(another person recommended this and added changes to this web page. I do not recommend this method below because it could short out pins in the chip, or on the arduino logic board. this being said the boards and the jy-mcu seem to be quite robust.)<br />
Here you take the full advantage of the USB-to-TTL Serial chip of your Arduino board (see [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega2560 Mega] or [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno Uno ], "Input and Output" section).<br /><br />
You do '''NOT need a USB-to-TTL Serial converter''' module (like this [http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-USB-To-TTL-or-COM-Converter-Module-buildin-in-CP2102-New-p-27989.html one], as described in [[Melzi#Melzi_with_Bluetooth|Melzi]]), you do '''NOT need an Arduino program''' to send commands to the BT module (as described above or in [[RAMPS_1.4#BT_Extension|RAMPS]]).<br /> <br />
<br />
====Procedure:====<br />
<br />
[[Image:Jy-mcu_Ramps_Nocrossover.jpg|200px|thumb|BT module on RAMPS.<br />This connection (Tx-Tx, Rx-Rx) works ONLY for changing module settings via AT commands.]]<br />
:1. Connect the BT module to the RAMPS or Arduino board as follows [notes 1, 2]:<br />
::{| class="wikitable"<br />
!BT JY-MCU<br />
!RAMPS / Arduino<br />
|-<br />
|VCC<br />
|5V<br />
|-<br />
|GND<br />
|GND<br />
|-<br />
|TX<br />
|TX0 (D1)<br />
|-<br />
|RX<br />
|RX0 (D0)<br />
|}<br />
:2. Arduino must have no programs loaded (e.g. Marlin or other 3D printer firmware) that interfere with Serial0 communication.<br /><br />
:3. The BT module red light should be blinking (which means no active BT connection to a PC or other device).<br /><br />
:4. Start a terminal program (e.g. Serial Monitor within Arduino IDE, CuteCom in Linux, TeraTerm in Windows) with the following settings:<br /><br />
::Baudrate 9600 bps (this is usually the default for BT JY-MCU).<br /><br />
::Select 'No line ending' or something similar (AT commands shoud be sent without any other character like CR or LF).<br /><br />
:5. Make a connection to the BT module and type the following AT commands [notes 3, 4]:<br /><br />
::AT - response should be: OK<br /> <br />
::'''AT+BAUD8''' - response should be: OK115200BAUD (set baud rate 115200 bps)<br /><br />
:6. Disconnect, then re-connect with baudrate 115200 bps and check that everything is OK by typing:<br />
::AT - response should be: OK<br /><br />
<br />
====Notes====<br />
:1. Here we make a direct Tx-Tx and Rx-Rx connection (i.e. no crossover); this is OK only for changing BT module settings, while for normal communication between PC and 3D printer you have to make a Tx-Rx connection instead.<br /><br />
:2. I did not use resistors (a different solution than in [[RAMPS_1.4#BT_Extension|RAMPS]]); some people say this solution is <font color="red">NOT correct/safe???</font>, but it worked well for me with BT modules [http://www.dx.com/p/jy-mcu-arduino-bluetooth-wireless-serial-port-module-104299?item=6 V1.05 and V1.06] not only for changing BT module settings, but also for normal communication between PC and 3D printer (see also [http://club.dx.com/reviews/104299/615337 here] and [http://club.dx.com/forums/forums.dx/threadid.1359610 here]).<br />
:3. AT commands need to be sent at once (i.e. not single characters at a time). If your terminal program does not allow that, simply copy the command to the clipboard and paste it at once into the terminal.<br /><br />
:4. [http://byron76.blogspot.it/2011/09/one-board-several-firmwares.html Here] you find more info about the AT commands.<br /><br />
<br />
====Tip====<br />
I suggest you to use Serial0 (i.e. pins D0 and D1) to connect the BT module to RAMPS / Arduino for normal communication between PC and 3D printer as well, as this will allow you to switch between USB and BT communication without the need to change the serial port number in your firmware (e.g. SERIAL_PORT paramenter in Marlin).<br />
However, some versions of the BT module (like V1.05) interfere with the USB communication and you need to disconnect the BT module when you want to communicate via USB (including Arduino firmware upload operation).<br />
<br />
== Other wireless options ==<br />
<br />
* [[Bluetooth Wireless Communication]].<br />
* [[RAMPS 1.4#BT Extension]].<br />
* [[Melzi#Melzi with Bluetooth]].</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=HIPS_and_d-lemonene,_D-Limonen&diff=189841
HIPS and d-lemonene, D-Limonen
2022-12-02T21:19:36Z
<p>DavidCary: suggest merge</p>
<hr />
<div>{{merge to | HIPS }}<br />
'''HIPS Filament & d-Lemonene'''<br />
<br />
As soluble support material for ABS HIPS can be solved in a d-lemonene (in german d-limonen) lotion. Use 97-99% pure limonen / lemonene extract in water with a ratio of 1:10 to 1:3, depending on the complexity and the amount of supportive HIPS filament being printed within the product. Don't throw away the water/lemonene bath after using it, try to use it a second or third time by adequately adding some lemonade lotion into it. The lemonene lotion is available in Internet.<br />
<br />
Das HIPS Filament wird als Stützmaterial, genauso wie PVA, benutzt, Nur wird HIPS nicht in Wasser, sondern in einer Limonen Terpente oder d-Limonen Extrakt gelöst. Dazu gibt es Limonen Extrakte die man über uns oder im Internet bestellen kann. Bei einer 97-99% Lösung sollte man diese in Verhältnis von 1:10 bis zu 1:3, je nach HIPS Volumen im 3D Druck Objekt, in Wasser mischen. Danach wird das 3D Druck Objekt hineingetaucht und zwischen 2-5 Stunden belassen.<br />
<br />
Content written by meXhibit / 11.2013<br />
Verantwortlich für diesen Inhalt ist meXhibit / 11.2013<br />
<br />
[[Category:HIPS]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=HIPS&diff=189840
HIPS
2022-12-02T21:19:20Z
<p>DavidCary: suggest merge</p>
<hr />
<div>{{languages}}<br />
{{merge from | HIPS and d-lemonene, D-Limonen }}<br />
<br />
High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS) is a great support material for ABS parts as it is very similar to [[ABS]] in its properties (read more at [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polystyrene#Copolymers Wikipedia]), but works with different solvents ([[Limonene]] for HIPS vs [[acetone]] for ABS). Experiments are ongoing for HIPS as a support material due to Limonene not affecting ABS, and a similar cost (vs double for [[PVA]]). HIPS can be easily torn from the ABS leaving an even finish behind. Also, HIPS is soluble in chemical called Limonen, which doesn't affect ABS.<br />
It can take between few hours and 2 or 3 days to dissolve the support. If possible, shake it some in a while so the soft support detaches from the model.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
Known vendors<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.123inkt.nl/3D-Filament-3D-printers-p43512.html 123inkt.nl]<br />
| [http://www.3d2print.net/shop/product-category/hips/ 3D2PRINT]<br />
| [http://www.3ddirect.com/HIPS-3d-printer-filaments 3ddirect]<br />
| [http://www.3dfilamenta.com 3Dfilamenta]<br />
| [http://www.3dinkspot.com 3D Inkspot]<br />
| [http://www.3dpartistry.com 3DPartistry]<br />
|-<br />
<br />
<br />
| [http://www.3dprima.com/ 3D-Prima]<br />
| [http://www.cubic-print.com/HIPS-black Cubic-Print]<br />
| [http://www.filamentenmeer.nl/ Filament & meer]<br />
| [http://gizmodorks.com/hips-3d-printer-filament/ GizmoDorks]<br />
| [https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/hips-3mm-filament-1kg-reel LulzBot]<br />
| [http://www.makergeeks.com/hiimpohfi1.html Maker Geeks]<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| [https://www.matterhackers.com/s/store?q=hips MatterHackers]<br />
| [http://www.mexhibit.ch/ meXhibit ]<br />
| [http://www.plabs3d.com/ Plabs 3D ]<br />
| [https://www.printerplayground.com/high-impact-polystyrene-hips-dissolvable-filament Printer Playground ]<br />
| [http://reprapworld.com/?products/listing&cPath=1590_1664 ReprapWorld]<br />
| [http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-1-75mm-hips-filament-1kg-2-2lb-for-3d-printers.html SainSmart]<br />
|-<br />
<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.subassembly.in/ Subassembly India]<br />
| [http://store.thingibox.com/en/4-plastic_filament Thingibox]<br />
| [http://www.toybuilderlabs.com/ ToyBuilder Labs]<br />
| [http://3D-grottan.se/ 3D-Grottan.se]<br />
| [http://3dmarkt.at/ 3DMarkt.at]<br />
| [http://reprap.pt/ RepRap PT]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
<br />
* [http://www.thingiverse.com/make:26452 tbuser gearbox using HIPS for support]<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/tbuser/8529943752/in/photostream tbuser octopus with HIPS]<br />
<br />
{{MaterialsDock EN}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:HIPS| ]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Graber_i3&diff=189839
Graber i3
2022-12-02T21:15:00Z
<p>DavidCary: add categories</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Graber i3<br />
|status = Working<br />
|image = Graberi3.jpg<br />
|description = Prusa i3 est un projet mené par S.Graber (This is Prusa i3, only almost all parts in MDF)<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Sgraber<br />
|reprap = Prusa i3<br />
|categories = {{tag | Graber i3}}; {{tag | Wood}}; {{tag | Cartesian-XZ-head}}<br />
|url = [https://github.com/sgraber/Graber S.Graber on GitHub]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
This is a stub for the Graber i3: https://github.com/sgraber/Graber [DXF and SketchUp files available]<br />
<br />
Laser cut parts can be ordered here: http://twelvepro.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=66_59&product_id=52<br />
<br />
and here: http://220v.biz/3d<br />
<br />
<br />
The Graber i3's design is uniquely suited towards building it with a laser cutter or even a simple CNC cutting machine, such as the Shapeoko. It derives from the original Prusa i3 design, and replaces all 3D-printed parts for completely wooden ones. <br />
<br />
Build volume: 200 x 200 x 200 mm<br />
<br />
=Bill of Materials=<br />
This list may be incomplete! <br />
<br />
The metric figures below are meant to be equivalent to their imperial counterpart - they might not be an exact fit.<br />
M3 nuts will be to small for the provided slots (thus the strikethrough); M5 nuts would be wide enough, but the screw holes only have a diameter of 3.5mm.<br />
One possible solution is to use M3 nuts+M3 washers. Find some M3 washers that have an outer diameter of 8mm, and use one washer per screw to make it a secure fit.<br />
<br />
<br />
If you are laser-cutting the wooden pieces yourself, you will need two 810 x 460mm pieces of 6mm thick MDF.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Threaded rods<br />
|-<br />
! Qty<br />
! Metric<br />
! Imperial<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M5 x 292mm || 5mm x 11.5" (Z-Axis)<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M8 x 51mm || 5/16" x 2" (y-belt idler)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Smooth rods<br />
|-<br />
! Qty<br />
! Metric<br />
! Imperial<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm x 317mm || 8mm x 12.5" (Z-Axis)<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm x 342mm || 8mm x 13.5" (Y-Axis)<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || 8mm x 400mm || 8mm x 15 3/4" (X-Axis)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Bolts<br />
|-<br />
!Qty<br />
!Metric<br />
!Imperial<br />
|-<br />
| 15 || M3 x 10mm (for stepper motors) ||<br />
|- <br />
| 6 || <s>M3</s> x 13mm || 6-32 x 0.5"<br />
|-<br />
| 41 || <s>M3</s> x 19mm || 6-32 x 3/4"<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || M3 x 20mm (Heated Bed) ||<br />
|-<br />
| 3 || M3 x 25mm (RAMPS mount) ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || <s>M3</s> x 25mm || 6-32 x 1"<br />
|- <br />
| 4 || <s>M3</s> x 32mm || 6-32 x 1,1/4" (X-Car)<br />
|-<br />
| 8 || <s>M3</s> x 38mm || 6-32 x 1,1/2"<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || M8 x 30mm ||<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || M8 x 40mm ||<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Nuts<br />
|-<br />
!Qty<br />
!Metric<br />
!Imperial<br />
|-<br />
| 7 || M3 Nut Nylon Insert ||<br />
|-<br />
| 61 || <s>M3</s> Nut Nylon Insert || Nut 6-32 Nylon Insert<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M5 Nut ||<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M8 Nut || Nut 5/16"<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Washers<br />
|-<br />
!Qty<br />
!Metric<br />
!Imperial<br />
|-<br />
| 6 || <s>M3</s> Washers || Washers 6-32<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || M8 Washers || Washers 5/16"<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Other Parts<br />
|-<br />
!Qty<br />
!Item<br />
|-<br />
| 4 || Spring (heated bed mount)<br />
|-<br />
| 7 || Zip Tie 4"<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || bearing 608zz (for Y and X idler) <br />
|-<br />
| 2 || Flexible 5 mm x 5 mm Shaft Coupling OR 20mm lenth of PVC Tubing (Z-Axis)<br />
|-<br />
| 10 || LM8UU linear bearing<br />
|-<br />
| 1 || Extruder w/ 0.3mm Nozzle for 1.75mm Filament w/ 100k NTC<br />
|- <br />
| 1 || Wade Gear<br />
|-<br />
| 2m || (7 feet) GT2 belt 6mm width<br />
|-<br />
| 2 || GT2 20-Tooth Pulley 5mm Shaft<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+Electronics<br />
|-<br />
!Qty<br />
!Item<br />
|-<br />
|1 || Mega2560 R3 ATmega2560<br />
|-<br />
|1 || RAMPS 1.4<br />
|-<br />
|1 || MK2B Dual Power PCB Heat Bed<br />
|-<br />
|3 || Micro Switch (end stops)<br />
|-<br />
|1 || RAMPS 1.4 LCD12864 Intelligent Controller LCD Control Board (optional, for standalone operation)<br />
|-<br />
| 5 || Nema 17 Stepper motor<br />
|-<br />
|5 || A4988 Stepper Motor Drive Module<br />
|-<br />
|1 || 12V 15A power supply unit<br />
|}</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Mechanical_Computer&diff=189838
Mechanical Computer
2022-12-02T20:21:39Z
<p>DavidCary: link to external resources on the topic of relay computers</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Mechanical Computer<br />
|description = documenting a generic tool/artpiece<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = [[User:Example_User]]<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Examples|Examples]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
In 1837, Charles Babbage was the first to design a general-purpose computer, a mechanical analytical engine.<br />
The design anticipated the first completed general-purpose computer by about 100 years.<br />
<br />
It has been proven that the technology of his day was sufficient to produce the relatively high strength and precision parts necessary for Babbage's designs to function.<br />
<br />
Alas, as of 2010, the current [[RepRap Options]] are not yet able to make parts with enough strength and precision to produce a computer according to Babbage's original design.<br />
However, we hope that someday the RepRap will be able to produce practically all the parts for a mechanical computer, by attacking this problem in two directions:<br />
* making new RepRap designs that are "better" in the sense that they can produce stronger and more precise parts.<br />
* We now know that a general-purpose computer can do extremely high-precision calculations even when built out of relatively low-precision components. By adapting the ideas of Babbage and later inventors, we can make new mechanical computer designs that are "better" in the sense that they are at least as "powerful" as Babbage's original design, but have more relaxed requirements on strength and precision.<br />
<br />
== Working Notes ==<br />
<br />
''It would appear that we have reached the limits of what is possible to achieve with computer technology, although one should be careful with such statements, as they tend to sound pretty silly in five years.''<br />
''-- John von Neumann, computer inventor, 1949''<br />
<br />
''Everything below this point is working notes.''<br />
<br />
== Forum thread? ==<br />
printing a computer: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?88,32387<br />
<br />
== Related==<br />
* The [[RelayRepRap]] is a project exploring whether it is possible to make a RepRap control system that can be made by a RepRap -- a possible [[Development_Pathway#more_self-replicating | path to more self-replicating development]]. See [https://hackaday.io/project/11914-relayreprap Hackaday: RelayRepRap].<br />
* [[Adding Mechanism]]<br />
* [[Actuator Fabrication#Fluidic (fluid logic) and Pure-Mechanical Systems]]<br />
<br />
* Jeffrey Winters. "remember the adding machine". Mentions a calculating machine built by Thomas Fowler in 1840 that used base 3 so that it could be built from simpler and lower-precision parts (but more of them).[http://www.memagazine.org/backissues/membersonly/sept03/features/adding/adding.html]; [https://web.archive.org/web/20110804233050/http://www.memagazine.org/backissues/membersonly/sept03/features/adding/adding.html]<br />
* Andrew Carol. "Building Complex Machines Using LEGO". "Babbage Difference Engine made with LEGO".[http://acarol.woz.org/]<br />
* Michael Freeman. "Difference Engine 0.5" . Designed using OpenScad and Blender ; printed on "the 3D printer". [[OpenSCAD]] source files available for download.[http://www-users.cs.york.ac.uk/~mjf/difference_engine/]<br />
* Sydney Padua. "The Marvellous Analytical Engine - How It Works". (A video illustrating the motion of some of the key parts of Babbage’s Analytical Engine).[http://sydneypadua.com/2dgoggles/the-marvellous-analytical-engine-how-it-works/]<br />
* "The Logical Engine: A project to create the world's first steam-powered all-mechanical computer, which could also be considered a 6,000,000:1 scale model of a nano-computer." Suggests that a binary rod computer would be easier to build and require fewer kinds of parts than a decimal rotating computer.[http://halfbakedmaker.org/what-is-the-logical-engine/]<br />
* "rod logic" at everything2.[http://everything2.com/title/rod+logic]<br />
* The "Microprocessor Design" wikibook says a "relay computer" (the CPU, not including memory) can be built with less than 450 relays, and gives some examples.[http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Microprocessor_Design/Wire_Wrap]<br />
* The Open Circuits wiki has a discussion on designing a relay computer, and gives examples: [https://opencircuits.com/index.php?title=Relay_CPU "Relay CPU"]<br />
*A steampowered mechanical Turing machine[http://srimech.blogspot.com/search/label/turingmachine] and CAD models for making said Turing machine:[https://github.com/jmacarthur/millihertz/tree/master/scad/newbuild/]<br />
* (Who should I credit?). The "Babbage-Boole Rodulator", aka the "Logical Engine". One possible answer to the question, "what if Babbage ditched decimal representation in favor of binary?". "My rule is that I can use any material as long as it doesn't have some essential property that was not available in Babbage's time.".[http://www.halfbakedmaker.org/?tag=rodulator] [http://www.halfbakedmaker.org/?category=Babbage-Boole+Rodulator]<br />
<br />
=Motivation=<br />
==Love Of the Art==<br />
Mechanical Computing is inherently beautiful and [[Interesting|interesting]].<br />
==RBS==<br />
Bootstraps [[RBS]].<br />
==Technology==<br />
This brings a number of fabrication technologies under the RepRap Umbrella:<br />
*[[Shape_Deposition_Manufacturing]].<br />
*[[Gear Cutting]]<br />
<br />
=Files and Parts=<br />
<br />
<br />
=Photos and Drawings=<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Example.jpg|[[Help:Contents/Links|Links]] can be put in captions.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=Flicker Example=<br />
<flickr>2967868906|right</flickr><br />
<br />
[[Category:3D model manufacturing]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Development_Pathway&diff=189837
Development Pathway
2022-12-02T20:13:58Z
<p>DavidCary: /* more self-replicating */ link to related page</p>
<hr />
<div>=Working Notes, please log in and edit!=<br />
<br />
These should be autogenerated by the 'Development' catagory or template. Or integrated in some other manner.<br />
<br />
[[Development]]<br />
<br />
As we mention when discussing the [[Combinatorics Problem]],<br />
a new design can be "better" from some other design in many different ways.<br />
<br />
Erik de Bruijn lists these broad areas of potential improvements:<br />
<ref><br />
Erik de Bruijn.<br />
[http://thesis.erikdebruijn.nl/master/MScThesis-ErikDeBruijn-2010.pdf "On the viability of the open source development model for the design of physical objects. Lessons learned from the RepRap project"].<br />
2010.<br />
In particular, "3.1.3 Technological innovations" and "Appendix C".<br />
</ref><br />
* Added functionality:<br />
** Use of ceramics and pastes instead of thermoplastics<br />
** The ability to function in subtractive as well as additive operating modes (e.g., Hydra-MMM).<br />
** The ability to mix multiple materials.<br />
** Embedding wire and conductive materials<br />
* extended auxiliary tools (Erik de Bruijn, "On the viability ..."; "3.1.3 Technological innovations")<br />
* Improved existing functionality<br />
** Faster, more efficient, more detailed and/or stronger output<br />
* Increased ease of assembly and use<br />
* Lower cost<br />
* More suitable components (e.g. easier-to-acquire)<br />
* Specialization towards a certain application<br />
** Digital pottery system<br />
* Interoperability with other systems<br />
** Compatibility with G-Code common in industrial CNC installations<br />
** platform independent software<br />
* Improved design architecture (e.g. modularization, part consolidation)<br />
* Refining operating techniques<br />
* Improved sharing infrastructure<br />
<br />
Better electronics is discussed at [[Alternative Electronics]].<br />
Better host software is discussed at [[Host software Variations]].<br />
Many ideas for making things better are listed at [[ideas to place]] and [[FuturePlans]].<br />
<br />
Ideas for a better website, enabling easier collaboration, are discussed at [[Library/Notes]].<br />
<br />
=Increased Resolution=<br />
* [[microstepping with optical feedback]]<br />
* [[CamRap]]<br />
<br />
=Materials Selection=<br />
<br />
discussions of the pros and cons of various frame materials go in [[frame material]].<br />
<br />
discussions of the various materials that can be shaped by a RepRap are currently at [[MaterialsScience]].<br />
<br />
discussions of the various techniques used to shape various materials are currently at [[Materials/Appropriate Machines]].<br />
<br />
discussions of particular tool heads used on a RepRap to shape particular materials are at [[RepRapToolHeads]] and [[FutureToolIdeas]].<br />
<br />
=== [[Laser Cutter]] ===<br />
<br />
=== [[SLSRap]] ===<br />
[[SLSRap]] is a RepRap which [[SLS]]s its own optics fixtures like lens holders and so on.<br />
<br />
''By SLS, are you referring to selective laser sintering [[SLS Printer]] ?''<br />
<br />
=Post-Mendel Designs=<br />
*[[Eiffel]]<br />
*[[MetalicaRap]]<br />
<br />
= Basic Box =<br />
[[RBS/Basic Box | Basic Box]] is a waypoint to developing a [[RBS]] [[SplineScan]] cabinet.<br />
<br />
=RepStraps=<br />
*[[FlatPack]] RepStrap<br />
*[[Extruded Aluminum RepStrap]]<br />
*[[Large Wooden Box RepStrap]]<br />
<br />
=Increased Build Area=<br />
<br />
[[Development:Mendel Apollo]] and<br />
[[MegaRap]]<br />
<br />
=== MegaRap ===<br />
'''[[Mendel]] is great, but I can currently<br />
* Carry it through a standard doorway<br />
* Lift it by myself<br />
* Fit it in the back seat or trunk of a car<br />
* Use it on a corner of my desk (as opposed to a dedicated room in a house, or a shed, garage, or barn)<br />
'''<br />
<br />
We at RepRap agree [[scaling]] is a real problem. That's why <span style="font-size:250%">MegaMendel</span> is here to help!<br />
<br />
Gert Joergensen has built the [[MegaMendel]], a mighty machine with a build area of 766mm x 453mm x 497mm.<br />
<br />
Some [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,176260 "Need bigger surface!"] ideas for scaling up to 200 mm x 400 mm heated bed, might apply to even larger scales.<br />
<br />
There's been some discussion [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,129040 "RepRap / RepStrap for making Aerodynamic Models"] circa 500mm x 500mm x 500mm.<br />
<br />
There's been some discussion of a [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?152,132060 "1 x 1 m print area reprap"].<br />
<br />
Someone<sup>who?</sup> has built [[LeBigRep]], an even bigger machine with a build area of 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm.<br />
-- a [[Cubic Meter Bot]].<br />
<br />
Perhaps you can [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,169146 "Help me design a large Rostock"] 4ft diameter (1.2 m diameter).<br />
<br />
If that is not big enough,<br />
[[MegaRap]] is a (currently hypothetical) RepRap. It may be a [[PourStrap]] or [[WeldStrap]] and is definitely a [[CNC Router]] which can process 4 ft x 8 ft sheets of plywood, foam, etc.<br />
See [[CNC router#BigRap]], [[RouterStrap]].<br />
<br />
Many people would like a CNC machine big enough to hold a "full-sized sheet" of 1.2 m × 2.4 m ( 4 feet × 8 feet, aka "four by eight" or "48 x 96") sheet of [[Wikipedia: plywood]] or MDF or other [[Wikipedia: engineered wood]] or foam, etc.; and then cut it into [[FlatPack]] parts.<br />
<br />
Are there any good ideas we can take from larger devices -- the [http://openfarmtech.org/index.php/Torch_Table_Build open-source torch table], the [[RouterStrap#MechMate]], etc. -- that we can scale down and apply to the MegaRap?<br />
<br />
The [[B&TRap]] -- using 3 cords -- can, in principle, be easily expanded to any size.<br />
<br />
=[[PourStrap]]=<br />
<br />
=== FlatPack PourStrap ===<br />
A [[Flatpack PourStrap]] is a [[PourStrap]] where the mold is made from sheets of acrylic or wood. The sheets are cut using a laser cutter, cnc router, or table saw.<br />
<br />
= Better electronics ==<br />
<br />
: ''main article: [[Alternative Electronics#Goals]]''<br />
<br />
=Library=<br />
Along with a few dozen post-mendel and RepStrap designs, we want a [[library]] of [[Library/6x10000s Problem|10,000 or so things]] to make with RepRaps.<br />
<br />
See [[Available Files]] for parts we already have in our library.<br />
<br />
== more self-replicating ==<br />
''main: [[About#Machine_Self-Replication]]; [[:Category:Self-Replication]]; [[self replicating reprap]].''<br />
<br />
How can we tweak the design of a RepRap to make it more self-reproducing?<br />
<br />
''(Is there a page that talks about "tweaking the design to make it more self-reproducing"? Please move the following ideas be moved to that page.)''<br />
<br />
Adrian Bowyer's work changed the lives of some people such as architectural students who print models of buildings and entire cities, engineering students who print models of gears and get a much more intuitive understanding of how they fit together, etc.<br />
Before Adrian Bowyers work, those students couldn't even afford to rent time on a prototyping machine, much less own their own machine.<br />
<br />
But some researchers feel that the current crop of low-cost fully-assembled prototyping machines based on Adrian's work, while they arguably work even better at printing models of buildings and gears, misses out on some world-changing ideas:<br />
* A few people at a single location at a single company mass-producing identical machines is inevitably going to come up with ideas for improvement at a slower rate than a diverse collection of people all over the planet, each one building on the work of people that came before and sharing improvements to the people who come after.<br />
* Rather than shipping a complete machine -- or even all the parts of a complete machine -- to someone that wants one, material costs and shipping costs and shipping time and time-to-build can potentially be reduced even further by taking advantage of local materials and local manufacturing capacity. (Ideally *everything* can be sourced locally, completely eliminating shipping time).<br />
* Given a primitive early version of a RepRap, it is in principle possible to directly print out and assemble a much later, vastly improved RepRap, and then (indirectly) print out and assemble the very latest RepRap with all the latest capabilities.<br />
* If everyone who builds a RepRap prints out 2 complete sets of parts and sends them to 2 other people who then build a RepRap (who continue the chain for 33 levels), everyone on the planet can have one -- see [[doubling time]].<br />
* Darwinian Marxism, as described in [[Wealth Without Money]]: when each machine is individually built and owned by the person who is going to use it, and each person contributes some improvement, no matter how small, then the improvements accumulate.<br />
<br />
Many people find the idea of a [[Wikipedia: self-replicating machine]], in particular machines that have a [[doubling time]], fascinating to think about.<br />
Adrian Bowyer's [[Wealth Without Money]] essay mentions<br />
a "a rapid-prototyping machine that can make all its components other than" a short list of critical components, and hints at "the desirable aim of shortening or eliminating [that list] altogether."<br />
RepRap researchers often metaphorically refer to parts on that short list as [[vitamin]]s.<br />
People discussing a [[RepLab]] or [[:category: RepRap machines]]<br />
often use phrases such as the "reprappiness factor"[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,206458,255328#msg-255328] or [[User:Spiritdude#Replicability | "replicability factor"]] or [[User:Spiritdude#Replicability Factor | "RepRap Factor"]] or "more replicable"[http://benjamin-engel.blogspot.com/2012/07/ben-bot.html] or [[Alt Select Mechanics | "% RepRap-able" ]] or "largely self reproducing" or "mostly self-replicating" or "largely self replicating" or "the percentage of the device that is printable" or "100% [[Self replicating reprap]]".<br />
<br />
Several researchers are developing ways to reduce the vitamins required to build a functional 3D printer:<br />
* printable actuators -- eliminating non-printable stepper motors -- [[Actuator Fabrication]]<br />
* printable frame -- eliminating [[threaded rod]] used in the frame -- [[Tantillus]], [[GolemB]], etc.<br />
* printable motion control -- eliminating linear and rotary bearings, or the smooth rods and threaded rod used as screw drive, or both -- [[Bamboo Printer]], [[PLA bushings]], [[:Category:Printable bearing]], Ben Bot[[http://benjamin-engel.blogspot.com/2012/07/ben-bot.html]], etc.<br />
* printable electronics -- [[Automated Circuitry Making]]; [[Mechanical Computer]]<br />
* printable fasteners -- eliminating nuts and bolts and other non-printable fasteners -- [[MultiRep]], [[MTM Snap]], etc.<br />
<br />
However, other researchers are keeping the same or increasing the vitamins, in order to reach [[#Other design goals]].<br />
<br />
<br />
===[[Ruggedisation]]===<br />
<br />
=== objectively measuring more or less self-replicating ===<br />
<br />
Alas, there seems to be a lot of confusion about whether a machine is "self-replicating",<br />
and about how to measure how self-replicating it is.<br />
''(TODO: summarize comments on this topic from''<br />
''[[ConvertingARepStrapToAFull-blownRepRap]],''<br />
''[[Talk:Orca#Re: whether it.27.3Bs a "true reprap" or not:]],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,172844 "Convergence to self replicating"],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,202918,203672#msg-203672 "Dreaming of a Static Motor Arrangement and Less Vitamins"],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,37085 "95% reprappable repraps"],''<br />
''etc.).''<br />
Everyone agrees that a (common) machine built of parts, a machine that cannot print out *any* of those parts, is not self-replicating. At best it is a [[RepStrap]].<br />
Everyone agrees that a (hypothetical) machine that one can drop on an asteroid, in total isolation, and the machine somehow harvests iron and rock and sunlight and transforms it into all the parts needed to build 2 machines identical to the original machine, is "100% self replicating",<br />
a [[fully printable reprap]].<br />
But in-between cases are not so clear.<br />
<br />
A variety of ways to objectively measure how "self-replicating" one machine is (a "metric") have been proposed.<br />
So far, all of these metrics have some flaw or another.<br />
<br />
* '''minimize vitamin/total weight ratio.''' Flaw: adding a bunch of non-functional plastic spikes to each printed part increases the total weight of the machine, artificially improving this measure, but most people would say that is not a real improvement.<br />
* '''maximize the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,160546,160598#msg-160598 "actual volume of printed parts"]''' Flaw: adding a bunch of non-functional plastic spikes to each printed part increases the total weight of the machine, artificially improving this measure, but most people would say that is not a real improvement.<br />
* '''minimize total cost of the vitamins.''' Flaw: because of currency fluctuations and shipping cost variations, this is arguably not an objective measure. Also, replacing two euros worth of bolts that I can get tonight, with a hundred euros worth of plastic parts that would take me days to print out, seems counter-productive.<br />
* '''minimize total cost.''' through various [[Cost Reduction]] ideas. Flaw: one way to do this is to freeze the design and use mass-production high-volume manufacturing techniques to improve the economy of scale, but that misses out on the "continuous improvement" possible when each RepRap built can be different and possibly better than the next. Also, because of currency fluctuations and shipping cost variations, this is arguably not an objective measure.<br />
** cost of vitamins (including shipping)<br />
** cost of raw plastic feedstock<br />
** cost of printing (electricity, especially for heated bed)<br />
** labor cost * assembly time (see [[doubling time]])<br />
* '''minimize time to assemble.''' Many researchers have pointed out that time-to-assemble is far more important than initially realized -- [[RepRapBreeding]], [[RepRap Breeder]], [[Bonsai RepStrap]], [[Walkabout]], [[:Category: Loaner Program]], [[Print It Forward]], etc. Flaw: If I buy some (allegedly) ready-to-go machine, this time is (allegedly) zero. But most people would say this isn't really self-replicating.<br />
* '''minimize [[doubling time]]''' -- time to assemble from parts, plus time to print out a new set of parts and wait for the remaining vitamins to be shipped in. Flaw: If I buy some nearly-ready-to-go machine and insert a single part into that machine, and then the machine can print out only that one single part (the rest of the machine is "vitamins"), this time can be very short (overnight shipping plus time-to-insert), but most people would say this isn't very self-replicating.<br />
* '''minimize the number of unique vitamins'''. Flaw: one obvious "improvement" that improves this measure is to reduce the unique parts from "threaded rod, nuts, bolts" to "threaded rod, nuts" -- by replace each bolt with a piece of studding cut to the same length as the original bolt plus a nut or two to act as the head. Is this really an improvement?<br />
* '''minimize the number of exotic, single-source parts''', replacing them with "jellybean" parts available from multiple sources<br />
* '''minimize the cost and weight of the tools required to make the parts of the machine''': Replace parts that can only be made on a quarter-million-dollar machine with parts that can be turned on a big $20,000 manual lathe. Replace parts that can only be made on a big lathe with parts that can be made with a small $2,000 desktop CNC machine mill. Replace parts that can only be made with a lathe or CNC with parts that can be cut with a $200 circular saw. Replace parts that require at least a circular saw with parts that can be cut with a $20 hand saw. For example, the [[ScrewRap]] with its "Minimal tools" goal. Flaw: it is unclear whether designs using lots of [[T-Slot]] should be considered highly replicable by this criteria -- considering the T-slot as raw material that can relatively easily be cut by low-cost tools -- or whether it is not very replicable by this criteria -- since it requires highly specialized equipment to make the T-slot from aluminum stock.<br />
* Certain RepRap subassemblies have been designed to be "easy to make", "do-it-yourselfable" -- in particular, many [[Gen7 Stories]] show hand-built electronics using off-the-shelf prototyping board that can be easily customized. Designs using [[:category: through-hole electronics]] and prototyping board are sometimes said to be more self-replicating than most [[category: surface-mount electronics]] that require a custom mass-produced PCB with higher up-front NRE costs and tiny parts that seem to be impossible to hand-solder.<br />
* '''minimize the number of parts that have to be shipped in from distant places''', replacing them with locally-sourced parts or printed parts. [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,160546,160770#msg-160770 "build a printer from whatever you can find in a local hardware store."]<br />
* A set of machines, each of which can't make *any* of its own parts, but which collectively can make all of the parts of every machine in the set (what [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,172844,175259#msg-175259 MattMoses calls "Cyclic Fabrication Systems"]), are sometimes said to be self-replicating. See [[RepLab]].<br />
* Machines that can build all the parts for [[solar cell manufacturing]] factories that can produce solar cells that can power the original machines are sometimes said to be more self-replicating that machines that rely on the electrical power grid, but this idea isn't captured by any of the above proposed measurements.<br />
<br />
Is there some objective measure of "percent self-replicating" that avoids these flaws?<br />
<br />
== Other design goals ==<br />
<br />
Some researchers have yet other design goals or [[TRap#Design Philosophy | "design philosophy"]].<br />
<br />
Some researchers deliberately tweak a design in ways that make it less self-replicating -- i.e., a "Vitamin-Rich RepRap" (see [[Kludgebot]]) -- in attempts to satisfy other design goals:<br />
<br />
* Simplicity<br />
** fewer unique kinds of parts -- it's much quicker to find a certain kind of part in a pile of 100 parts of 2 kinds than to find a certain kind of part in a pile of 50 parts, all of them unique. Also, bulk discounts often make it cost much less to buy 100 bolts in 2 different sizes than 50 bolts, each one unique.<br />
** fewer total number of parts -- reducing the assembly time. ([[LaserCut Mendel]], [[MakiBox]], [[R 360]], etc. mention this as a goal).<br />
* small and rugged to make [[transportation]] easier.<br />
* [[education]]<br />
** Using a 3D printer helps develop certain skills. What features of a RepRap or RepStrap help people develop those skills?<br />
** Building a 3D printer helps develop certain other skills. What features of a RepRap or RepStrap help people develop those skills? As a negative example, if a design is so difficult to assemble that many people give up on the project -- I'm looking at you, [[McWire (Death March: Do not build!!!)]] -- then those people can be tricked into thinking they aren't smart enough to assemble any 3D printer -- "learned helplessness".<br />
* ...<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
A few other design goals are mentioned at [[ideas to place]].<br />
<br />
= Further reading =<br />
<br />
* these Development Pathway notes may slightly replicate and encapsulate the [[Gada Prize]] stuff.<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,76497,76702 "Design a perfect 3D printer"] asks: "If you can design a 'perfect' 3D printer, what would you do?"<br />
<br />
=References=<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Community suggestions]]<br />
[[Category:Development| ]]<br />
[[Category:RepStrap| ]]<br />
[[Category:CNC machines| ]]<br />
[[Category:LaserCut| ]]<br />
[[Category:SLS| ]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Development_Pathway&diff=189836
Development Pathway
2022-12-02T20:13:37Z
<p>DavidCary: /* more self-replicating */ link to related page</p>
<hr />
<div>=Working Notes, please log in and edit!=<br />
<br />
These should be autogenerated by the 'Development' catagory or template. Or integrated in some other manner.<br />
<br />
[[Development]]<br />
<br />
As we mention when discussing the [[Combinatorics Problem]],<br />
a new design can be "better" from some other design in many different ways.<br />
<br />
Erik de Bruijn lists these broad areas of potential improvements:<br />
<ref><br />
Erik de Bruijn.<br />
[http://thesis.erikdebruijn.nl/master/MScThesis-ErikDeBruijn-2010.pdf "On the viability of the open source development model for the design of physical objects. Lessons learned from the RepRap project"].<br />
2010.<br />
In particular, "3.1.3 Technological innovations" and "Appendix C".<br />
</ref><br />
* Added functionality:<br />
** Use of ceramics and pastes instead of thermoplastics<br />
** The ability to function in subtractive as well as additive operating modes (e.g., Hydra-MMM).<br />
** The ability to mix multiple materials.<br />
** Embedding wire and conductive materials<br />
* extended auxiliary tools (Erik de Bruijn, "On the viability ..."; "3.1.3 Technological innovations")<br />
* Improved existing functionality<br />
** Faster, more efficient, more detailed and/or stronger output<br />
* Increased ease of assembly and use<br />
* Lower cost<br />
* More suitable components (e.g. easier-to-acquire)<br />
* Specialization towards a certain application<br />
** Digital pottery system<br />
* Interoperability with other systems<br />
** Compatibility with G-Code common in industrial CNC installations<br />
** platform independent software<br />
* Improved design architecture (e.g. modularization, part consolidation)<br />
* Refining operating techniques<br />
* Improved sharing infrastructure<br />
<br />
Better electronics is discussed at [[Alternative Electronics]].<br />
Better host software is discussed at [[Host software Variations]].<br />
Many ideas for making things better are listed at [[ideas to place]] and [[FuturePlans]].<br />
<br />
Ideas for a better website, enabling easier collaboration, are discussed at [[Library/Notes]].<br />
<br />
=Increased Resolution=<br />
* [[microstepping with optical feedback]]<br />
* [[CamRap]]<br />
<br />
=Materials Selection=<br />
<br />
discussions of the pros and cons of various frame materials go in [[frame material]].<br />
<br />
discussions of the various materials that can be shaped by a RepRap are currently at [[MaterialsScience]].<br />
<br />
discussions of the various techniques used to shape various materials are currently at [[Materials/Appropriate Machines]].<br />
<br />
discussions of particular tool heads used on a RepRap to shape particular materials are at [[RepRapToolHeads]] and [[FutureToolIdeas]].<br />
<br />
=== [[Laser Cutter]] ===<br />
<br />
=== [[SLSRap]] ===<br />
[[SLSRap]] is a RepRap which [[SLS]]s its own optics fixtures like lens holders and so on.<br />
<br />
''By SLS, are you referring to selective laser sintering [[SLS Printer]] ?''<br />
<br />
=Post-Mendel Designs=<br />
*[[Eiffel]]<br />
*[[MetalicaRap]]<br />
<br />
= Basic Box =<br />
[[RBS/Basic Box | Basic Box]] is a waypoint to developing a [[RBS]] [[SplineScan]] cabinet.<br />
<br />
=RepStraps=<br />
*[[FlatPack]] RepStrap<br />
*[[Extruded Aluminum RepStrap]]<br />
*[[Large Wooden Box RepStrap]]<br />
<br />
=Increased Build Area=<br />
<br />
[[Development:Mendel Apollo]] and<br />
[[MegaRap]]<br />
<br />
=== MegaRap ===<br />
'''[[Mendel]] is great, but I can currently<br />
* Carry it through a standard doorway<br />
* Lift it by myself<br />
* Fit it in the back seat or trunk of a car<br />
* Use it on a corner of my desk (as opposed to a dedicated room in a house, or a shed, garage, or barn)<br />
'''<br />
<br />
We at RepRap agree [[scaling]] is a real problem. That's why <span style="font-size:250%">MegaMendel</span> is here to help!<br />
<br />
Gert Joergensen has built the [[MegaMendel]], a mighty machine with a build area of 766mm x 453mm x 497mm.<br />
<br />
Some [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,176260 "Need bigger surface!"] ideas for scaling up to 200 mm x 400 mm heated bed, might apply to even larger scales.<br />
<br />
There's been some discussion [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,129040 "RepRap / RepStrap for making Aerodynamic Models"] circa 500mm x 500mm x 500mm.<br />
<br />
There's been some discussion of a [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?152,132060 "1 x 1 m print area reprap"].<br />
<br />
Someone<sup>who?</sup> has built [[LeBigRep]], an even bigger machine with a build area of 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm.<br />
-- a [[Cubic Meter Bot]].<br />
<br />
Perhaps you can [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,169146 "Help me design a large Rostock"] 4ft diameter (1.2 m diameter).<br />
<br />
If that is not big enough,<br />
[[MegaRap]] is a (currently hypothetical) RepRap. It may be a [[PourStrap]] or [[WeldStrap]] and is definitely a [[CNC Router]] which can process 4 ft x 8 ft sheets of plywood, foam, etc.<br />
See [[CNC router#BigRap]], [[RouterStrap]].<br />
<br />
Many people would like a CNC machine big enough to hold a "full-sized sheet" of 1.2 m × 2.4 m ( 4 feet × 8 feet, aka "four by eight" or "48 x 96") sheet of [[Wikipedia: plywood]] or MDF or other [[Wikipedia: engineered wood]] or foam, etc.; and then cut it into [[FlatPack]] parts.<br />
<br />
Are there any good ideas we can take from larger devices -- the [http://openfarmtech.org/index.php/Torch_Table_Build open-source torch table], the [[RouterStrap#MechMate]], etc. -- that we can scale down and apply to the MegaRap?<br />
<br />
The [[B&TRap]] -- using 3 cords -- can, in principle, be easily expanded to any size.<br />
<br />
=[[PourStrap]]=<br />
<br />
=== FlatPack PourStrap ===<br />
A [[Flatpack PourStrap]] is a [[PourStrap]] where the mold is made from sheets of acrylic or wood. The sheets are cut using a laser cutter, cnc router, or table saw.<br />
<br />
= Better electronics ==<br />
<br />
: ''main article: [[Alternative Electronics#Goals]]''<br />
<br />
=Library=<br />
Along with a few dozen post-mendel and RepStrap designs, we want a [[library]] of [[Library/6x10000s Problem|10,000 or so things]] to make with RepRaps.<br />
<br />
See [[Available Files]] for parts we already have in our library.<br />
<br />
== more self-replicating ==<br />
''main: [[About#Machine_Self-Replication]]; [[Category:Self-Replication]]; [[self replicating reprap]].''<br />
<br />
How can we tweak the design of a RepRap to make it more self-reproducing?<br />
<br />
''(Is there a page that talks about "tweaking the design to make it more self-reproducing"? Please move the following ideas be moved to that page.)''<br />
<br />
Adrian Bowyer's work changed the lives of some people such as architectural students who print models of buildings and entire cities, engineering students who print models of gears and get a much more intuitive understanding of how they fit together, etc.<br />
Before Adrian Bowyers work, those students couldn't even afford to rent time on a prototyping machine, much less own their own machine.<br />
<br />
But some researchers feel that the current crop of low-cost fully-assembled prototyping machines based on Adrian's work, while they arguably work even better at printing models of buildings and gears, misses out on some world-changing ideas:<br />
* A few people at a single location at a single company mass-producing identical machines is inevitably going to come up with ideas for improvement at a slower rate than a diverse collection of people all over the planet, each one building on the work of people that came before and sharing improvements to the people who come after.<br />
* Rather than shipping a complete machine -- or even all the parts of a complete machine -- to someone that wants one, material costs and shipping costs and shipping time and time-to-build can potentially be reduced even further by taking advantage of local materials and local manufacturing capacity. (Ideally *everything* can be sourced locally, completely eliminating shipping time).<br />
* Given a primitive early version of a RepRap, it is in principle possible to directly print out and assemble a much later, vastly improved RepRap, and then (indirectly) print out and assemble the very latest RepRap with all the latest capabilities.<br />
* If everyone who builds a RepRap prints out 2 complete sets of parts and sends them to 2 other people who then build a RepRap (who continue the chain for 33 levels), everyone on the planet can have one -- see [[doubling time]].<br />
* Darwinian Marxism, as described in [[Wealth Without Money]]: when each machine is individually built and owned by the person who is going to use it, and each person contributes some improvement, no matter how small, then the improvements accumulate.<br />
<br />
Many people find the idea of a [[Wikipedia: self-replicating machine]], in particular machines that have a [[doubling time]], fascinating to think about.<br />
Adrian Bowyer's [[Wealth Without Money]] essay mentions<br />
a "a rapid-prototyping machine that can make all its components other than" a short list of critical components, and hints at "the desirable aim of shortening or eliminating [that list] altogether."<br />
RepRap researchers often metaphorically refer to parts on that short list as [[vitamin]]s.<br />
People discussing a [[RepLab]] or [[:category: RepRap machines]]<br />
often use phrases such as the "reprappiness factor"[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,206458,255328#msg-255328] or [[User:Spiritdude#Replicability | "replicability factor"]] or [[User:Spiritdude#Replicability Factor | "RepRap Factor"]] or "more replicable"[http://benjamin-engel.blogspot.com/2012/07/ben-bot.html] or [[Alt Select Mechanics | "% RepRap-able" ]] or "largely self reproducing" or "mostly self-replicating" or "largely self replicating" or "the percentage of the device that is printable" or "100% [[Self replicating reprap]]".<br />
<br />
Several researchers are developing ways to reduce the vitamins required to build a functional 3D printer:<br />
* printable actuators -- eliminating non-printable stepper motors -- [[Actuator Fabrication]]<br />
* printable frame -- eliminating [[threaded rod]] used in the frame -- [[Tantillus]], [[GolemB]], etc.<br />
* printable motion control -- eliminating linear and rotary bearings, or the smooth rods and threaded rod used as screw drive, or both -- [[Bamboo Printer]], [[PLA bushings]], [[:Category:Printable bearing]], Ben Bot[[http://benjamin-engel.blogspot.com/2012/07/ben-bot.html]], etc.<br />
* printable electronics -- [[Automated Circuitry Making]]; [[Mechanical Computer]]<br />
* printable fasteners -- eliminating nuts and bolts and other non-printable fasteners -- [[MultiRep]], [[MTM Snap]], etc.<br />
<br />
However, other researchers are keeping the same or increasing the vitamins, in order to reach [[#Other design goals]].<br />
<br />
<br />
===[[Ruggedisation]]===<br />
<br />
=== objectively measuring more or less self-replicating ===<br />
<br />
Alas, there seems to be a lot of confusion about whether a machine is "self-replicating",<br />
and about how to measure how self-replicating it is.<br />
''(TODO: summarize comments on this topic from''<br />
''[[ConvertingARepStrapToAFull-blownRepRap]],''<br />
''[[Talk:Orca#Re: whether it.27.3Bs a "true reprap" or not:]],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,172844 "Convergence to self replicating"],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,202918,203672#msg-203672 "Dreaming of a Static Motor Arrangement and Less Vitamins"],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,37085 "95% reprappable repraps"],''<br />
''etc.).''<br />
Everyone agrees that a (common) machine built of parts, a machine that cannot print out *any* of those parts, is not self-replicating. At best it is a [[RepStrap]].<br />
Everyone agrees that a (hypothetical) machine that one can drop on an asteroid, in total isolation, and the machine somehow harvests iron and rock and sunlight and transforms it into all the parts needed to build 2 machines identical to the original machine, is "100% self replicating",<br />
a [[fully printable reprap]].<br />
But in-between cases are not so clear.<br />
<br />
A variety of ways to objectively measure how "self-replicating" one machine is (a "metric") have been proposed.<br />
So far, all of these metrics have some flaw or another.<br />
<br />
* '''minimize vitamin/total weight ratio.''' Flaw: adding a bunch of non-functional plastic spikes to each printed part increases the total weight of the machine, artificially improving this measure, but most people would say that is not a real improvement.<br />
* '''maximize the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,160546,160598#msg-160598 "actual volume of printed parts"]''' Flaw: adding a bunch of non-functional plastic spikes to each printed part increases the total weight of the machine, artificially improving this measure, but most people would say that is not a real improvement.<br />
* '''minimize total cost of the vitamins.''' Flaw: because of currency fluctuations and shipping cost variations, this is arguably not an objective measure. Also, replacing two euros worth of bolts that I can get tonight, with a hundred euros worth of plastic parts that would take me days to print out, seems counter-productive.<br />
* '''minimize total cost.''' through various [[Cost Reduction]] ideas. Flaw: one way to do this is to freeze the design and use mass-production high-volume manufacturing techniques to improve the economy of scale, but that misses out on the "continuous improvement" possible when each RepRap built can be different and possibly better than the next. Also, because of currency fluctuations and shipping cost variations, this is arguably not an objective measure.<br />
** cost of vitamins (including shipping)<br />
** cost of raw plastic feedstock<br />
** cost of printing (electricity, especially for heated bed)<br />
** labor cost * assembly time (see [[doubling time]])<br />
* '''minimize time to assemble.''' Many researchers have pointed out that time-to-assemble is far more important than initially realized -- [[RepRapBreeding]], [[RepRap Breeder]], [[Bonsai RepStrap]], [[Walkabout]], [[:Category: Loaner Program]], [[Print It Forward]], etc. Flaw: If I buy some (allegedly) ready-to-go machine, this time is (allegedly) zero. But most people would say this isn't really self-replicating.<br />
* '''minimize [[doubling time]]''' -- time to assemble from parts, plus time to print out a new set of parts and wait for the remaining vitamins to be shipped in. Flaw: If I buy some nearly-ready-to-go machine and insert a single part into that machine, and then the machine can print out only that one single part (the rest of the machine is "vitamins"), this time can be very short (overnight shipping plus time-to-insert), but most people would say this isn't very self-replicating.<br />
* '''minimize the number of unique vitamins'''. Flaw: one obvious "improvement" that improves this measure is to reduce the unique parts from "threaded rod, nuts, bolts" to "threaded rod, nuts" -- by replace each bolt with a piece of studding cut to the same length as the original bolt plus a nut or two to act as the head. Is this really an improvement?<br />
* '''minimize the number of exotic, single-source parts''', replacing them with "jellybean" parts available from multiple sources<br />
* '''minimize the cost and weight of the tools required to make the parts of the machine''': Replace parts that can only be made on a quarter-million-dollar machine with parts that can be turned on a big $20,000 manual lathe. Replace parts that can only be made on a big lathe with parts that can be made with a small $2,000 desktop CNC machine mill. Replace parts that can only be made with a lathe or CNC with parts that can be cut with a $200 circular saw. Replace parts that require at least a circular saw with parts that can be cut with a $20 hand saw. For example, the [[ScrewRap]] with its "Minimal tools" goal. Flaw: it is unclear whether designs using lots of [[T-Slot]] should be considered highly replicable by this criteria -- considering the T-slot as raw material that can relatively easily be cut by low-cost tools -- or whether it is not very replicable by this criteria -- since it requires highly specialized equipment to make the T-slot from aluminum stock.<br />
* Certain RepRap subassemblies have been designed to be "easy to make", "do-it-yourselfable" -- in particular, many [[Gen7 Stories]] show hand-built electronics using off-the-shelf prototyping board that can be easily customized. Designs using [[:category: through-hole electronics]] and prototyping board are sometimes said to be more self-replicating than most [[category: surface-mount electronics]] that require a custom mass-produced PCB with higher up-front NRE costs and tiny parts that seem to be impossible to hand-solder.<br />
* '''minimize the number of parts that have to be shipped in from distant places''', replacing them with locally-sourced parts or printed parts. [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,160546,160770#msg-160770 "build a printer from whatever you can find in a local hardware store."]<br />
* A set of machines, each of which can't make *any* of its own parts, but which collectively can make all of the parts of every machine in the set (what [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,172844,175259#msg-175259 MattMoses calls "Cyclic Fabrication Systems"]), are sometimes said to be self-replicating. See [[RepLab]].<br />
* Machines that can build all the parts for [[solar cell manufacturing]] factories that can produce solar cells that can power the original machines are sometimes said to be more self-replicating that machines that rely on the electrical power grid, but this idea isn't captured by any of the above proposed measurements.<br />
<br />
Is there some objective measure of "percent self-replicating" that avoids these flaws?<br />
<br />
== Other design goals ==<br />
<br />
Some researchers have yet other design goals or [[TRap#Design Philosophy | "design philosophy"]].<br />
<br />
Some researchers deliberately tweak a design in ways that make it less self-replicating -- i.e., a "Vitamin-Rich RepRap" (see [[Kludgebot]]) -- in attempts to satisfy other design goals:<br />
<br />
* Simplicity<br />
** fewer unique kinds of parts -- it's much quicker to find a certain kind of part in a pile of 100 parts of 2 kinds than to find a certain kind of part in a pile of 50 parts, all of them unique. Also, bulk discounts often make it cost much less to buy 100 bolts in 2 different sizes than 50 bolts, each one unique.<br />
** fewer total number of parts -- reducing the assembly time. ([[LaserCut Mendel]], [[MakiBox]], [[R 360]], etc. mention this as a goal).<br />
* small and rugged to make [[transportation]] easier.<br />
* [[education]]<br />
** Using a 3D printer helps develop certain skills. What features of a RepRap or RepStrap help people develop those skills?<br />
** Building a 3D printer helps develop certain other skills. What features of a RepRap or RepStrap help people develop those skills? As a negative example, if a design is so difficult to assemble that many people give up on the project -- I'm looking at you, [[McWire (Death March: Do not build!!!)]] -- then those people can be tricked into thinking they aren't smart enough to assemble any 3D printer -- "learned helplessness".<br />
* ...<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
A few other design goals are mentioned at [[ideas to place]].<br />
<br />
= Further reading =<br />
<br />
* these Development Pathway notes may slightly replicate and encapsulate the [[Gada Prize]] stuff.<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,76497,76702 "Design a perfect 3D printer"] asks: "If you can design a 'perfect' 3D printer, what would you do?"<br />
<br />
=References=<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Community suggestions]]<br />
[[Category:Development| ]]<br />
[[Category:RepStrap| ]]<br />
[[Category:CNC machines| ]]<br />
[[Category:LaserCut| ]]<br />
[[Category:SLS| ]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Weftknit&diff=189835
Weftknit
2022-12-02T19:27:09Z
<p>DavidCary: suggest delete</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
{{delete|only spam and delete for its entire history}}</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=User_talk:Alemar&diff=189834
User talk:Alemar
2022-12-02T18:51:50Z
<p>DavidCary: Welcome.</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
== Welcome ==<br />
<br />
Welcome to RepRap.<br />
<br />
Thank you for making the RepRap wiki a better place.<br />
<br />
Thank you for translating the [[RepRap/it]], [[RepRap Options/it]], and [[Resources/it]] pages.<br />
<br />
I hope that you find the RepRap wiki interesting and useful.<br />
<br />
Again, welcome.<br />
--[[User:DavidCary|DavidCary]] ([[User talk:DavidCary|talk]]) 13:51, 2 December 2022 (EST)</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Resources&diff=189833
Resources
2022-12-02T18:25:27Z
<p>DavidCary: Undo revision 189773 -- move Italian text to Resources/it</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Resources}}<br />
{{Portal Header}}<br />
{{merge to | RepRap Options }}<br />
<br />
This page is a work in progress and contains outdate information, treat this like a placeholder<br />
<br />
== Software Toolchain ==<br />
<br />
The software toolchain can be roughly broken down into 3 parts:<br />
# CAD tools.<br />
# CAM tools.<br />
# Firmware for electronics.<br />
<br />
=== CAD Tools ===<br />
Computer Aided Design, or CAD, tools are used to design 3D parts for printing.<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
[[Wikipedia:Computer-aided_design|CAD tools]] in the truest sense are designed to allow you to easily change and manipulate parts based on parameters. Sometimes CAD files are referred to as ''parametric'' files. They usually represent parts or assemblies in terms of [[Wikipedia:Constructive solid geometry|Constructive Solid Geometry]], or CSG. Using CSG, parts can be represented as a tree of boolean operations performed on primitive shapes such as cubes, spheres, cylinders, pyramids, ETC. <br />
<br />
[[Wikipedia:Free_and_open_source_software|Free/Libre/Open Source Software]] (''[[Wikipedia:Alternative_terms_for_free_software|FLOSS]]'') applications that fall into this category would be [[OpenSCAD]], [[FreeCAD]] and [[Wikipedia:HeeksCAD|HeeksCAD]] and [[Wikipedia:List_of_computer-aided_design_editors|more]]. Examples of [[Wikipedia:Proprietary_software|proprietary]] and fully parametric CAD tools are [[Wikipedia:Creo_(design_software)|PTC Creo]] (formerly PTC Pro/Engineer), [[Wikipedia:SolidWorks|Dassault Solidworks]], [[Wikipedia:Autodesk_Inventor|Autodesk Inventor]] and [[Wikipedia:List_of_computer-aided_design_editors|more]].<br />
<br />
Typically in such programs the geometry is stored in a feature tree where the dimensions can be modified numerically, and the geometry is then regenerated with great precision. The geometry is a mathematical representation where, for example, a circle is generated from its center, radius and plane parameters (hence, "parametric"). No matter how much you zoom in, a circle is still curved, and the CAD program has no problem finding its center when you click on it. This can be quite beneficial when making drawings with dimensions between the circle and sections that need to be concentrically removed.<br />
<br />
Another looser category of CAD tool would be apps that represent parts as a 3D [[Wikipedia:Polygon mesh|Polygon mesh]]. These applications are meant to be used more for special effects and artistic applications. They also seem to be a little more user-friendly. [[Wikipedia:Free_and_open_source_software|FLOSS]]-apps in this category would be [[Wikipedia:Blender_(software)|Blender]] and [[Wikipedia:Art_of_Illusion|Art of Illusion]]. [[Wikipedia:Proprietary_software|Proprietary]] tools are [[Wikipedia:3D_Studio_Max|Autodesk 3ds Max]], [[Wikipedia:Autodesk_AliasStudio|Autodesk Alias]], [[Wikipedia:Google_Sketchup|Google Sketchup]] and more.<br />
<br />
Further, you can create forms with just a web-browser at certain websites, such as [http://tinkercad.com TinkerCAD.com] (easy) or [http://3dtin.com 3DTin.com] (more sophisticated), those permit you to download the resulting geometry.<br />
<br />
Some of the tools mentioned above also use parametric data to generate the geometries, but a lot just register the positions of the vertices of the polygons making up the models. Some use parameters to generate the geometry but then drops that data once the vertices are placed. A curve is thus actually an approximation, generated from a number of straight lines between points. As such, those tools are better suited for design where the precision of dimensions are less important than looks and ease of use.<br />
<br />
If you want to print as little material as possible; design parts optimised by volume in function of strains, you may use topology optimization through non-commercial-use-only software such as Topostruct (see sawapan.eu website), BESO, or free-open-source-use such as Topy, a topology optimization software writen in Python by the brillant William Hunter.<br />
([https://code.google.com/p/topy/ ToPy at Google Code]; a few related tools at [https://github.com/jordn/topology-optimisation topology-optimisation at github]).<br />
<br />
It might be usefull to have a lattice engineering software, that will create a support of your part or fill the part to save material. One of the most used is Materialise Magics, but there is also Netfabb. Both are proprietary softwares, not free.<br />
<br />
==== Files ====<br />
Most of the time 3D software apps save their files in an application-specific format, which in the case of proprietary CAD tools usually are frequently changed and heavily guarded trade secrets.<br />
<br />
There are very few interchangeable CAD [[File Formats|file formats]]. The two most widely used interchangeable CSG file formats are [[File Formats|STEP]] and [[File Formats|IGES]]. Both strip the geometries from parametric data and offer only "dead" solids. Features can be added and removed, but the base shape is locked. ''There is to date no industry-wide interchangeable file format that retain parametric data''.<br />
<br />
The most widely used interchangeable mesh file format is [[File Formats|STL]]. STL files are important because, as we will see below, they are used by CAM tools.<br />
<br />
Mesh files cannot be converted into CSG file formats because they contain no parametric data - only the coordinates of the polygon vertices that make up the solid volume. However, CSG file formats ''can'' be converted into mesh file formats. <br />
<br />
Thus, if you're designing a part, it's a good idea to design it using a CSG CAD application and save and distribute its original parametric file along with generated STL files.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:PRT.png|Parametric file format<br />
File:STEP.png|STEP export format<br />
File:STL.png|STL mesh format<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== CAM Tools ===<br />
Computer Aided Manufacturing, or CAM, tools handle the intermediate step of translating CAD files into a machine-friendly format used by the RepRap's electronics. More info is on the [[CAM Toolchains]] page.<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
<br />
===== Slicing Software =====<br />
In order to turn a 3D part into a machine friendly format, CAM software needs an [[File Formats|STL]] file. The machine friendly format that is used for printing is called [[G-code]]. Early versions of RepRaps used a protocol called [[SNAPComms|SNAP]] but industry standard G-codes are now used. To Convert STL files to G-code, you can use one of the following programs: <br />
<br />
* [[MatterSlice]] (Fast and full featured - works with [[MatterControl]])(open source)<br />
* [[Skeinforge]] (Dated solution)(Still one of the best and highly recommended for accurate prints)<br />
* [[Cura]] (Also includes G-Code sender)(Extremely fast and accurate)<br />
* [[Slic3r]] (Popular solution for most RepRappers)(Lots of bugs in every release)<br />
* [[Kisslicer]] (Fast and accurate with very few bugs)(Closed source)<br />
* [[RepSnapper]]<br />
* [[Mendel User Manual: Host Software|RepRap Host Software]]<br />
* [[X2sw]]<br />
* [[SuperSkein]]<br />
* [[SlicerCloud]] (Online Slic3r solution)<br />
* [[Simplify3D]] (All-In-One Paid Suite)<br />
<br />
The STL to G-code conversion slices the part like salami, then looks at the cross section of each slice and figures out the path that the print head must travel in order to squirt out plastic, and calculates the amount of filament to feed through the extruder for the distance covered.<br />
<br />
(Normally you don't need to repair, edit or manipulate STL files directly, but if you do, you might find the software at [[Useful Software Packages#Software for dealing with STL files]] useful).<br />
<br />
===== G-code interpreter =====<br />
After you have your G-code file, you have to run it through a G-code interpreter. This reads each line of the file and sends the actual electronic signals to the motors to tell the RepRap how to move. There are two main G-code interpreter options:<br />
<br />
# A workstation program called [[EMC]] (or other CAM software) which controls the hardware directly or<br />
# The firmware on a RepRap's electronics platform with an integrated hardware interface that has a G-code interpreter <br />
<br />
===== G-code sender =====<br />
To send the G-code files to an integrated hardware interpreter, you need to either to:<br />
<br />
# Load the G-code file on an memory card (typically SD card) if supported.<br />
# Drip-feed the G-codes (usually a line at a time) over a serial port (RS-232 or TTL level, often used with a USB converter) or a direct USB connection using one of the following programs on your workstation:<br />
<br />
:* [[MatterControl]]<br />
:* [[Cura]]<br />
:* [[ReplicatorG]]<br />
:* [[RepSnapper]]<br />
:* [[RepRaptor]]<br />
:* [[Mendel User Manual: Host Software|RepRap Host Software]]<br />
:* [[ArduinoSend|send.py]]<br />
:* [[reprap-utils]] (not supported anymore)<br />
:* [[Pronterface]]<br />
:* [[RebRep]]<br />
:* [[Repetier-Host]] (closed source)<br />
:* [[X2sw]]<br />
:* [[Simplify3D]] (closed source)<br />
:* [[OctoPrint]]<br />
<br />
Some of the options are cross platform while others will only work with certain operating systems or prefer specific integrated firmware interpreters.<br />
<br />
==== Part Files ====<br />
The main files use by CAM tools are [[File Formats|STL]] and [[File Formats|G-code]] files. CAM tools convert STL files into G-code files. The official STL files for [[Mendel]] are stored in the reprap [[Wikipedia:Apache Subversion|subversion]] repository. To get a copy of these files, run the following commands in ubuntu:<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install subversion<br />
svn co https://svn.code.sf.net/p/reprap/code/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/cartesian-robot-m4/printed-parts/<br />
<br />
This will create a directory full of STL files that you can then give to your neighbor that already has a reprap and they can print out the parts for you. You will also notice that this directory contains [[File Types|AoI files]]. These files are for [[AoI|Art of Illusion]]. It is the CAD application that was used to design the parts and then save them as STL files.<br />
<br />
=== Firmware ===<br />
Reprap electronics are controlled by an inexpensive CPU such as the Atmel AVR processor. Atmel processors are what Arduino-based microcontrollers use. These processors are very wimpy compared to even the average 10 to 15 year old PC you find in the dump nowadays. However, these ''are'' CPUs so they do run primitive software. This primitive software they run is the Reprap's ''firmware''.<br />
<br />
Of the entire software chain that makes the Reprap work, the firmware portion of it is the closest you get to actual programming. Technically, the term for what you are doing with firmware is called [[Wikipedia:Cross compiler|cross compiling]]. <br />
<br />
This process more or less consists of the following steps:<br />
# Install the [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE] on your PC.<br />
# Download some firmware source code from a website.<br />
# Make some minor changes to the source code to specify what hardware you have.<br />
# Compile the firmware using the Arduino [[Wikipedia:Integrated development environment|IDE]].<br />
# Connect the controller to your PC via a USB cable.<br />
# Upload the firmware to your controller's CPU.<br />
<br />
==== G-codes ====<br />
After your microcontroller has its firmware loaded, it is ready to accept [[G-code]]s via the software-emulated [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_port RS-232 serial port] (aka COM port) - and typically tunneled over USB. This port shows up when you plug in your arduino to the PC via USB. You can either use a program to send these G-codes over the serial port or you can type them in by hand if you fire up a plain-old terminal application like hyperterm or minicom. If you use a program, they generally take files in [[File_Formats#GCODE|gcode]] format.<br />
<br />
For all available firmwares see ''[[List of Firmware]]''. The following is a brief list of the most popular firmware:<br />
<br />
* [[List of Firmware#Sprinter|Sprinter]]<br />
* [[List of Firmware#Marlin|Marlin]]<br />
* [[List of Firmware#Teacup| Teacup]]<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
To compile and upload firmware to your arduino-based electronics, you use the arduino IDE that you can download from the arduino website.<br />
<br />
==== Files ====<br />
The firmware files are usually packaged as source code for an Arduino [[Wikipedia:Integrated development environment|IDE]] project. Arduino source code consists of a bunch of [[File Formats|PDE]] (or as of Arduino ver 1.0, [[File Formats|INO]]) files along with some extra <tt>.cpp</tt> and <tt>.h</tt> files thrown in. The Arduino IDE compiles the source code into a single <tt>.hex</tt>file. When you click on the upload icon in the Arduino IDE, it uploades the .hex file to the electronics.<br />
<br />
<br />
== More Info ==<br />
In a nutshell, here's a short summary of everything above except CAD software:<br />
<br />
[[File:RepRap Toolchain.jpg|1024px]]<br />
<br />
== Electronics ==<br />
<br />
=== Overview ===<br />
In general, all reprap electronics are broken down into 5 different areas:<br />
<br />
==== The controller ==== <br />
The controller is the brains of the reprap. Almost all reprap controllers are based on the work of the [[Wikipedia:Arduino|Arduino]] microcontroller - and lately the [[Wikipedia:ARM_architecture|ARM microcontroller]]. ([[:Category:Generation 1 electronics|The first generation RepRap used PICmicro]]) The software the microcontroller executes is called [[firmware]].<br />
<br />
While a lot of variations exist, they are exchangeable and basically all do the same thing. Sometimes the controller is a stand-alone circuit board with chips on it, sometimes the controller is an [http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega Arduino Mega] with an add-on board (called a 'shield'). Find more at [[List of electronics]].<br />
<br />
==== Stepper Motors ==== <br />
A [[stepper motor]] is a type of electric motor that can be accurately controlled with the controller. Most repraps use 4 to 5 stepper motors. 3 to 4 motors control the x/y/z axis movement (sometimes the z axis is controlled by 2 motors) and 1 motor is used per [[extruder]].<br />
<br />
==== Stepper Drivers ==== <br />
A [[stepper motor#Driving stepper motors|stepper driver]] is a chip that acts as a kind of middle-man between a stepper motor and the controller. It simplifies the signals that need to be sent to the stepper motor in order to get it to move. <br />
<br />
Sometimes the stepper drivers are on separate circuit boards that are linked to the controller via cables. <br />
<br />
Sometimes the stepper drivers are on small circuit boards that plug directly into the controller itself. In this case, the controller will have space for at least 4 of these small circuit boards (one for each stepper motor). <br />
<br />
Finally, sometimes the stepper drivers are soldered right onto the controller itself.<br />
<br />
==== End stops ==== <br />
An [[end stop]] is a very small and simple circuit board with a switch of some sort on it.<br />
<br />
An end stop has two purposes:<br />
# Calibrate printing limits at start up (Cartesian XYZ: the axis starts(/ends) ) ([[Delta printers]]: See [[Wikipedia:Delta_robot|Delta robot]]).<br />
# Register when the tool head (e.g. an [[extruder]]) has moved too far in one direction and as an error trigger an endstop. The reason can e.g. be if the mechanics looses steps - or the steppers are not controlled correctly by the electronics or firmware. (A wrongly generated Gcode from a 3D-model, that tries to send the toolhead out of the print area, should result in an error generated by the firmware.)<br />
<br />
Thus, there's normally 6 of these: 2 for each axis (Most firmware include software settings for max position, which allows for only the min position endstops to be required). A single end stop connects via wires to either: <br />
# The controller. <br />
# A stepper driver board.<br />
<br />
==== Heated Bed ==== <br />
The print bed is what the RepRap extrudes plastic onto, where the plastic parts are built up.<br />
<br />
While a [[heated bed]] is considered to be an optional component of a reprap, it often becomes a necessary and integral part of operating a RepRap over the long-term because, without a heated bed, parts have a tendency to cool down too quickly. This results in warping of corners (as the plastic shrinks while cooling) or the part physically detaching from the print bed too early, ruining the print. <br />
<br />
Heated beds operate on the same principle as a kitchen toaster. They're just giant resistors with a temperature sensor. See also:<br />
* [[PCB Heatbed]]<br />
* [http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L9q_ScmVcVI/UYFUGYXK-FI/AAAAAAAABUg/0AOrsgd88uY/s1600/RepRapWiringDiagram.jpg RAMPS 1.2 Wiring Diagram].<br />
* [http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapPro_Mendel_heatbed_assembly The Prusa Mendel Heatbed Assembly Article]<br />
<br />
=== More Info ===<br />
To see more details about reprap electronics, take a look at the [[List of electronics]] page.<br />
<br />
== Mechanical Body ==<br />
When it comes to the mechanical body, it can be generally broken down into two parts: <br />
# Movement along the x/y/z axes.<br />
# The print bed<br />
<br />
=== X/Y/Z Axis Motion ===<br />
Main category page for [[:Category:Mechanical arrangement|Mechanical arrangement]]<br />
<br />
When facing the front of a reprap, X axis movement is side to side, aka left to right movement, Y axis movement is forwards/backwards movement and Z axis movement is up and down along the vertical plane.<br />
<br />
Linear movement is generally accomplished using one of 2 different methods:<br />
# Belt/pulley driven motion.<br />
# Threaded rod or leadscrew motion.<br />
<br />
Belts and pulleys are good for fast/lightweight movement and threaded rods are good for slow but forceful movement. Most repraps use a combination of belts for X/Y axis movement and threaded rod for Z axis movement. <br />
<br />
==== Belts and Pulleys ====<br />
When it comes to accuracy, the most important part of your reprap is your belt/pulley combination. Current state of the art is the GT2 belt, along with a machined pulley that matches the exact bore size of your stepper motors (normally this is 5mm).<br />
<br />
There are many types of belt/pulley combinations, currently (March 2012) most in use are:<br />
;T5: These are ''asynchronous'' metric timing belts. They have trapezoidal teeth and deliberate backlash to reduce belt wear and noise for ''uni-directional'' applications. They are difficult to get in North America. The pulleys themselves though can be printed. Using a printed pulley will give you approximately the same results as if you use an MXL pulley/belt combination with the wrong bore size.<br />
;T2.5: Like the T5 these are asynchronous metric belt/pulley combinations. These have a 2.5mm (.098") pitch and are printable. With the same diameter pulleys there is a better grip (compared to t5) on the belt and will give a better result. The best results are with metal pulleys due to the fine tooth profile.<br />
;MXL: This stands for "mini extra-light". These belts have been around since the 1940s. Like T5 & T2.5, these are also asynchronous timing belts but they are common in North America because they use imperial sizes. The distance between teeth is 0.08" and the teeth are trapezoidal. You *may* be able to find pulleys that have a 5mm bore but it seems difficult. Most stepper motors have spindles that are 5mm in diameter.<br />
;HTD: This stands for "high torque drive" and was introduced by [http://www.gates.com/ Gates] in 1971. These belts have less backlash than MXL and T5 belts because the teeth are deeper and are rounded. These belts were originally patented by Gates but the Patent has since expired.<br />
;GT2: These are Gates PowerGrip® GT®2 industrial ''synchronous'' timing belts. GT stands for "Gates Tooth". GT2 came about because the HTD patents ran out and they needed a new tooth profile that was not public domain. Gates says the GT2 belts will run OK on HTD pulleys but not the other way around. GT2 belts are stronger than HTD belts, but they need the GT2 tooth profile on the pulleys to achieve their ultimate strength advantage over HTD. These may be more difficult to find everywhere.<br />
;Spectra: Spectra fiber braided fishing line is quickly becoming a popular choice to replace belts in many applications after its first implementation in Tantillus and then in many Delta printers. It is cheap and available in most cities around the world. Once tightened correctly it has almost no backlash and provides very smooth movement due to the lack of bumpy teeth and its incredibly small bend radius allowing high steps per mm.<br />
<br />
For more info see [[Choosing Belts and Pulleys]].<br />
<br />
==== Threaded rod ====<br />
Most repraps use threaded rod for the Z axis. The Z axis doesn't have to move fast (but it is better if it can move quickly) because it generally only goes up tenths of a mm at a time. Threaded rod is ok for accuracy and force. Repraps don't require force but some [[Wikipedia:CNC|CNC]] machines, use threaded rod for all 3 axes. Since the Z axis threaded rods support the weight of the x-carriage it's a good idea to use high-strength stainless steel for the rod and nut, otherwise they will suffer greater wear on the threads and experience premature failure.<br />
<br />
==== Notes on Backlash ====<br />
One thing to note about all ways of moving is ''backlash''. Backlash is that jigglyness that you feel in both threaded rod and belts/pulleys when you ''change direction''. This jigglyness/sloppiness affects accuracy.<br />
<br />
The T5 and MXL belts above were originally designed to be used as timing belts. Timing belts normally only spin in one direction so backlash is not an issue. Thus, because the GT2 belts were designed to change direction, they will be more accurate.<br />
<br />
The standard way of compensating for threaded rod backlash is to use 2 nuts and force them apart using a spring. This kind of makes sure that the nuts are always pushing against the threads so that when you change direction, it doesn't jiggle. Not sure if that makes sense but I'll leave it here anyways.<br />
<br />
=== Print Bed ===<br />
The print bed is what parts get printed on. The print bed may be stationary, like with the original reprap [[RepRapOneDarwin|Darwin]], or it may move along one of the x/y/z axes. Most repraps have the bed move along the Y axis but some will also move along the Z axis.<br />
<br />
The bed usually consists of two plates: the upper plate and the lower plate. <br />
<br />
==== Upper Plate ====<br />
The upper plate is mounted to the lower plate on springs. The springs allow it to be levelled using adjusting screws. It also (I think) was designed this way because it gives a little if you accidentally ram the print head down into it.<br />
<br />
The upper plate may or may not be heated. It's usually made of a PCB board or of metal. If the plate is heated, it will usually have a piece of glass held on top of it by bulldog clips. <br />
<br />
Tape is usually applied to the upper plate to act as a print surface. It helps the extruded plastic stick to the bed and it also makes it easier to remove the part once it's done. The two most common tape types used are blue painter's tape and kapton tape.<br />
<br />
==== Lower Plate ====<br />
Sometimes the lower plate is called the frog plate because the original mendel's lower plate kind of looked like a frog.<br />
<br />
It provides a sturdy base that the upper plate can be connected to. If the bed moves along one of the axes, then the lower plate is directly connected to the mechanism that moves the bed. For the Y axis, this usually means belts or for the Z axis, this usually means threaded rod.<br />
<br />
== Extruder ==<br />
The extruder is responsible for feeding [[filament]] through a nozzle and melting it as it's deposited onto the bed where the part is made.<br />
<br />
The extruder consists of two parts:<br />
# The cold end<br />
# The hot end<br />
<br />
Normally, the "Cold End" is connected to the "Hot End" across a thermal break or insulator. This has to be rigid and accurate enough to reliably pass the filament from one side to the other, but still prevent much of the heat transfer. The materials of choice are usually PEEK plastic with PTFE liners or PTFE with stainless steel mechanical supports or a combination of all three. <br />
<br />
However, there also exist [[Erik's_Bowden_Extruder|Bowden Extruders]] which separate the hot end from the cold end by a long tube. Bowden extruders are much faster because they are much lighter.<br />
<br />
==== Cold End ====<br />
This can get a bit confusing here People tend to refer to the cold end as an "extruder" also. In reality, it's only half of the entire extruder mechanism. The cold end is the part that mechanically feeds material to the hot end, which in turn melts it. <br />
<br />
Popular cold ends are:<br />
* [[Wade's Geared Extruder]]<br />
* [[Greg's Hinged Extruder]]<br />
* [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379 Greg's Wade's Reloaded Extruder]<br />
<br />
==== Hot End ====<br />
: See also [[Hot End Design Theory]]<br />
<br />
The hot end is arguably the most complex aspect of 3d printers as it deals with the tricky business of melting and extruding plastic filament. In general, the hot end is a metal case with<br />
# A resistor or heater cartridge that heats up so it melts the plastic (usually around 200C) <br />
# A [[thermistor]] or a [[thermocouple]] which measures the temperature<br />
The electronics basically monitor the temperature via the thermistor, then raise or lower the temperature by varying the amount of power supplied usually by some form of [[Wikipedia:Pulse_width_modulation|PWM]]<br />
<br />
see Hotend comparison:<br />
[[Hot End Comparison]] and [[Hot End]]<br />
<br />
==== Filament ====<br />
Generally, people use one of two types of filament: ABS or PLA. ABS is strongly scented when melted and warps but is relatively strong whereas PLA is said to smell like waffles and is biodegradable. ABS fumes are detrimental to one's health. ABS will bend before it breaks whereas PLA is relatively brittle. Consequently, for delicate structural roles, PLA should be used, however, for other purposes, ABS can be ideal.<br />
<br />
=== Notes on PID ===<br />
Sometimes you will hear people talk about [[Wikipedia:PID_controller|PID]] when discussing extruders. PID is a closed-loop control algorithm that engineers have been using for years. It is a mathematical algorithm that uses feedback from sensors (measuring temperature, for example) and controls an output (such as switching a heater on and off) to reach and maintain the desired setpoint (the temperature you want the extruder to have, for example).<br />
<br />
Real world example: When you are driving your car down the highway, you're doing your own PID-like function as you watch the road and adjust the steering wheel to stay in your lane. If you adjust a little bit at a time and often enough, you stay in your lane nicely. But if you wait until you hit the lines on either side of the road before adjusting the wheel, people will think you're drunk and you'll oscillate all over the road. You may still get where you're going but it won't be pretty. PIDs use constants (numbers) that have to be tuned (adjusted) to the application. To continue the driving example, drunk is having bad constants, sober is just the right numbers. <br />
<br />
Cruise control in a car is another good example of an every day [[Wikipedia:PID_controller|PID]] controller.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Design and Modelling ==<br />
<br />
=== Techniques ===<br />
<br />
==== DIY Supports ====<br />
<br />
# [[ Example_DIY_Floating_Supports_in_Blender|Example #1: 'Floating' DIY Supports (in Blender) ]]<br />
# [[ Example_DIY_Supports_2|Example #2: DIY Supports and Considerations (in Blender) ]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:RepRap machines]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Resources/it&diff=189832
Resources/it
2022-12-02T18:24:49Z
<p>DavidCary: move from Resources</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Resources}}<br />
{{Portal Header}}<br />
{{merge to | RepRap Options }}<br />
<br />
Questa pagina è in lavorazione e contiene informazioni che potrebbero obsolete, trattala come un riferimento<br />
<br />
== Strumenti software ==<br />
<br />
Gli strumenti software possono essere suddivisi approssimativamente in 3 categorie:<br />
# Strumenti CAD.<br />
# Strumenti CAM.<br />
# Firmware per l'elettronica.<br />
<br />
=== CAD Tools ===<br />
Computer Aided Design, or CAD, tools are used to design 3D parts for printing.<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
[[Wikipedia:Computer-aided_design|CAD tools]] in the truest sense are designed to allow you to easily change and manipulate parts based on parameters. Sometimes CAD files are referred to as ''parametric'' files. They usually represent parts or assemblies in terms of [[Wikipedia:Constructive solid geometry|Constructive Solid Geometry]], or CSG. Using CSG, parts can be represented as a tree of boolean operations performed on primitive shapes such as cubes, spheres, cylinders, pyramids, ETC. <br />
<br />
[[Wikipedia:Free_and_open_source_software|Free/Libre/Open Source Software]] (''[[Wikipedia:Alternative_terms_for_free_software|FLOSS]]'') applications that fall into this category would be [[OpenSCAD]], [[FreeCAD]] and [[Wikipedia:HeeksCAD|HeeksCAD]] and [[Wikipedia:List_of_computer-aided_design_editors|more]]. Examples of [[Wikipedia:Proprietary_software|proprietary]] and fully parametric CAD tools are [[Wikipedia:Creo_(design_software)|PTC Creo]] (formerly PTC Pro/Engineer), [[Wikipedia:SolidWorks|Dassault Solidworks]], [[Wikipedia:Autodesk_Inventor|Autodesk Inventor]] and [[Wikipedia:List_of_computer-aided_design_editors|more]].<br />
<br />
Typically in such programs the geometry is stored in a feature tree where the dimensions can be modified numerically, and the geometry is then regenerated with great precision. The geometry is a mathematical representation where, for example, a circle is generated from its center, radius and plane parameters (hence, "parametric"). No matter how much you zoom in, a circle is still curved, and the CAD program has no problem finding its center when you click on it. This can be quite beneficial when making drawings with dimensions between the circle and sections that need to be concentrically removed.<br />
<br />
Another looser category of CAD tool would be apps that represent parts as a 3D [[Wikipedia:Polygon mesh|Polygon mesh]]. These applications are meant to be used more for special effects and artistic applications. They also seem to be a little more user-friendly. [[Wikipedia:Free_and_open_source_software|FLOSS]]-apps in this category would be [[Wikipedia:Blender_(software)|Blender]] and [[Wikipedia:Art_of_Illusion|Art of Illusion]]. [[Wikipedia:Proprietary_software|Proprietary]] tools are [[Wikipedia:3D_Studio_Max|Autodesk 3ds Max]], [[Wikipedia:Autodesk_AliasStudio|Autodesk Alias]], [[Wikipedia:Google_Sketchup|Google Sketchup]] and more.<br />
<br />
Further, you can create forms with just a web-browser at certain websites, such as [http://tinkercad.com TinkerCAD.com] (easy) or [http://3dtin.com 3DTin.com] (more sophisticated), those permit you to download the resulting geometry.<br />
<br />
Some of the tools mentioned above also use parametric data to generate the geometries, but a lot just register the positions of the vertices of the polygons making up the models. Some use parameters to generate the geometry but then drops that data once the vertices are placed. A curve is thus actually an approximation, generated from a number of straight lines between points. As such, those tools are better suited for design where the precision of dimensions are less important than looks and ease of use.<br />
<br />
If you want to print as little material as possible; design parts optimised by volume in function of strains, you may use topology optimization through non-commercial-use-only software such as Topostruct (see sawapan.eu website), BESO, or free-open-source-use such as Topy, a topology optimization software writen in Python by the brillant William Hunter.<br />
([https://code.google.com/p/topy/ ToPy at Google Code]; a few related tools at [https://github.com/jordn/topology-optimisation topology-optimisation at github]).<br />
<br />
It might be usefull to have a lattice engineering software, that will create a support of your part or fill the part to save material. One of the most used is Materialise Magics, but there is also Netfabb. Both are proprietary softwares, not free.<br />
<br />
==== Files ====<br />
Most of the time 3D software apps save their files in an application-specific format, which in the case of proprietary CAD tools usually are frequently changed and heavily guarded trade secrets.<br />
<br />
There are very few interchangeable CAD [[File Formats|file formats]]. The two most widely used interchangeable CSG file formats are [[File Formats|STEP]] and [[File Formats|IGES]]. Both strip the geometries from parametric data and offer only "dead" solids. Features can be added and removed, but the base shape is locked. ''There is to date no industry-wide interchangeable file format that retain parametric data''.<br />
<br />
The most widely used interchangeable mesh file format is [[File Formats|STL]]. STL files are important because, as we will see below, they are used by CAM tools.<br />
<br />
Mesh files cannot be converted into CSG file formats because they contain no parametric data - only the coordinates of the polygon vertices that make up the solid volume. However, CSG file formats ''can'' be converted into mesh file formats. <br />
<br />
Thus, if you're designing a part, it's a good idea to design it using a CSG CAD application and save and distribute its original parametric file along with generated STL files.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
File:PRT.png|Parametric file format<br />
File:STEP.png|STEP export format<br />
File:STL.png|STL mesh format<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== CAM Tools ===<br />
Computer Aided Manufacturing, or CAM, tools handle the intermediate step of translating CAD files into a machine-friendly format used by the RepRap's electronics. More info is on the [[CAM Toolchains]] page.<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
<br />
===== Slicing Software =====<br />
In order to turn a 3D part into a machine friendly format, CAM software needs an [[File Formats|STL]] file. The machine friendly format that is used for printing is called [[G-code]]. Early versions of RepRaps used a protocol called [[SNAPComms|SNAP]] but industry standard G-codes are now used. To Convert STL files to G-code, you can use one of the following programs: <br />
<br />
* [[MatterSlice]] (Fast and full featured - works with [[MatterControl]])(open source)<br />
* [[Skeinforge]] (Dated solution)(Still one of the best and highly recommended for accurate prints)<br />
* [[Cura]] (Also includes G-Code sender)(Extremely fast and accurate)<br />
* [[Slic3r]] (Popular solution for most RepRappers)(Lots of bugs in every release)<br />
* [[Kisslicer]] (Fast and accurate with very few bugs)(Closed source)<br />
* [[RepSnapper]]<br />
* [[Mendel User Manual: Host Software|RepRap Host Software]]<br />
* [[X2sw]]<br />
* [[SuperSkein]]<br />
* [[SlicerCloud]] (Online Slic3r solution)<br />
* [[Simplify3D]] (All-In-One Paid Suite)<br />
<br />
The STL to G-code conversion slices the part like salami, then looks at the cross section of each slice and figures out the path that the print head must travel in order to squirt out plastic, and calculates the amount of filament to feed through the extruder for the distance covered.<br />
<br />
(Normally you don't need to repair, edit or manipulate STL files directly, but if you do, you might find the software at [[Useful Software Packages#Software for dealing with STL files]] useful).<br />
<br />
===== G-code interpreter =====<br />
After you have your G-code file, you have to run it through a G-code interpreter. This reads each line of the file and sends the actual electronic signals to the motors to tell the RepRap how to move. There are two main G-code interpreter options:<br />
<br />
# A workstation program called [[EMC]] (or other CAM software) which controls the hardware directly or<br />
# The firmware on a RepRap's electronics platform with an integrated hardware interface that has a G-code interpreter <br />
<br />
===== G-code sender =====<br />
To send the G-code files to an integrated hardware interpreter, you need to either to:<br />
<br />
# Load the G-code file on an memory card (typically SD card) if supported.<br />
# Drip-feed the G-codes (usually a line at a time) over a serial port (RS-232 or TTL level, often used with a USB converter) or a direct USB connection using one of the following programs on your workstation:<br />
<br />
:* [[MatterControl]]<br />
:* [[Cura]]<br />
:* [[ReplicatorG]]<br />
:* [[RepSnapper]]<br />
:* [[RepRaptor]]<br />
:* [[Mendel User Manual: Host Software|RepRap Host Software]]<br />
:* [[ArduinoSend|send.py]]<br />
:* [[reprap-utils]] (not supported anymore)<br />
:* [[Pronterface]]<br />
:* [[RebRep]]<br />
:* [[Repetier-Host]] (closed source)<br />
:* [[X2sw]]<br />
:* [[Simplify3D]] (closed source)<br />
:* [[OctoPrint]]<br />
<br />
Some of the options are cross platform while others will only work with certain operating systems or prefer specific integrated firmware interpreters.<br />
<br />
==== Part Files ====<br />
The main files use by CAM tools are [[File Formats|STL]] and [[File Formats|G-code]] files. CAM tools convert STL files into G-code files. The official STL files for [[Mendel]] are stored in the reprap [[Wikipedia:Apache Subversion|subversion]] repository. To get a copy of these files, run the following commands in ubuntu:<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install subversion<br />
svn co https://svn.code.sf.net/p/reprap/code/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/cartesian-robot-m4/printed-parts/<br />
<br />
This will create a directory full of STL files that you can then give to your neighbor that already has a reprap and they can print out the parts for you. You will also notice that this directory contains [[File Types|AoI files]]. These files are for [[AoI|Art of Illusion]]. It is the CAD application that was used to design the parts and then save them as STL files.<br />
<br />
=== Firmware ===<br />
Reprap electronics are controlled by an inexpensive CPU such as the Atmel AVR processor. Atmel processors are what Arduino-based microcontrollers use. These processors are very wimpy compared to even the average 10 to 15 year old PC you find in the dump nowadays. However, these ''are'' CPUs so they do run primitive software. This primitive software they run is the Reprap's ''firmware''.<br />
<br />
Of the entire software chain that makes the Reprap work, the firmware portion of it is the closest you get to actual programming. Technically, the term for what you are doing with firmware is called [[Wikipedia:Cross compiler|cross compiling]]. <br />
<br />
This process more or less consists of the following steps:<br />
# Install the [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE] on your PC.<br />
# Download some firmware source code from a website.<br />
# Make some minor changes to the source code to specify what hardware you have.<br />
# Compile the firmware using the Arduino [[Wikipedia:Integrated development environment|IDE]].<br />
# Connect the controller to your PC via a USB cable.<br />
# Upload the firmware to your controller's CPU.<br />
<br />
==== G-codes ====<br />
After your microcontroller has its firmware loaded, it is ready to accept [[G-code]]s via the software-emulated [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_port RS-232 serial port] (aka COM port) - and typically tunneled over USB. This port shows up when you plug in your arduino to the PC via USB. You can either use a program to send these G-codes over the serial port or you can type them in by hand if you fire up a plain-old terminal application like hyperterm or minicom. If you use a program, they generally take files in [[File_Formats#GCODE|gcode]] format.<br />
<br />
For all available firmwares see ''[[List of Firmware]]''. The following is a brief list of the most popular firmware:<br />
<br />
* [[List of Firmware#Sprinter|Sprinter]]<br />
* [[List of Firmware#Marlin|Marlin]]<br />
* [[List of Firmware#Teacup| Teacup]]<br />
<br />
==== Software ====<br />
To compile and upload firmware to your arduino-based electronics, you use the arduino IDE that you can download from the arduino website.<br />
<br />
==== Files ====<br />
The firmware files are usually packaged as source code for an Arduino [[Wikipedia:Integrated development environment|IDE]] project. Arduino source code consists of a bunch of [[File Formats|PDE]] (or as of Arduino ver 1.0, [[File Formats|INO]]) files along with some extra <tt>.cpp</tt> and <tt>.h</tt> files thrown in. The Arduino IDE compiles the source code into a single <tt>.hex</tt>file. When you click on the upload icon in the Arduino IDE, it uploades the .hex file to the electronics.<br />
<br />
<br />
== More Info ==<br />
In a nutshell, here's a short summary of everything above except CAD software:<br />
<br />
[[File:RepRap Toolchain.jpg|1024px]]<br />
<br />
== Electronics ==<br />
<br />
=== Overview ===<br />
In general, all reprap electronics are broken down into 5 different areas:<br />
<br />
==== The controller ==== <br />
The controller is the brains of the reprap. Almost all reprap controllers are based on the work of the [[Wikipedia:Arduino|Arduino]] microcontroller - and lately the [[Wikipedia:ARM_architecture|ARM microcontroller]]. ([[:Category:Generation 1 electronics|The first generation RepRap used PICmicro]]) The software the microcontroller executes is called [[firmware]].<br />
<br />
While a lot of variations exist, they are exchangeable and basically all do the same thing. Sometimes the controller is a stand-alone circuit board with chips on it, sometimes the controller is an [http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega Arduino Mega] with an add-on board (called a 'shield'). Find more at [[List of electronics]].<br />
<br />
==== Stepper Motors ==== <br />
A [[stepper motor]] is a type of electric motor that can be accurately controlled with the controller. Most repraps use 4 to 5 stepper motors. 3 to 4 motors control the x/y/z axis movement (sometimes the z axis is controlled by 2 motors) and 1 motor is used per [[extruder]].<br />
<br />
==== Stepper Drivers ==== <br />
A [[stepper motor#Driving stepper motors|stepper driver]] is a chip that acts as a kind of middle-man between a stepper motor and the controller. It simplifies the signals that need to be sent to the stepper motor in order to get it to move. <br />
<br />
Sometimes the stepper drivers are on separate circuit boards that are linked to the controller via cables. <br />
<br />
Sometimes the stepper drivers are on small circuit boards that plug directly into the controller itself. In this case, the controller will have space for at least 4 of these small circuit boards (one for each stepper motor). <br />
<br />
Finally, sometimes the stepper drivers are soldered right onto the controller itself.<br />
<br />
==== End stops ==== <br />
An [[end stop]] is a very small and simple circuit board with a switch of some sort on it.<br />
<br />
An end stop has two purposes:<br />
# Calibrate printing limits at start up (Cartesian XYZ: the axis starts(/ends) ) ([[Delta printers]]: See [[Wikipedia:Delta_robot|Delta robot]]).<br />
# Register when the tool head (e.g. an [[extruder]]) has moved too far in one direction and as an error trigger an endstop. The reason can e.g. be if the mechanics looses steps - or the steppers are not controlled correctly by the electronics or firmware. (A wrongly generated Gcode from a 3D-model, that tries to send the toolhead out of the print area, should result in an error generated by the firmware.)<br />
<br />
Thus, there's normally 6 of these: 2 for each axis (Most firmware include software settings for max position, which allows for only the min position endstops to be required). A single end stop connects via wires to either: <br />
# The controller. <br />
# A stepper driver board.<br />
<br />
==== Heated Bed ==== <br />
The print bed is what the RepRap extrudes plastic onto, where the plastic parts are built up.<br />
<br />
While a [[heated bed]] is considered to be an optional component of a reprap, it often becomes a necessary and integral part of operating a RepRap over the long-term because, without a heated bed, parts have a tendency to cool down too quickly. This results in warping of corners (as the plastic shrinks while cooling) or the part physically detaching from the print bed too early, ruining the print. <br />
<br />
Heated beds operate on the same principle as a kitchen toaster. They're just giant resistors with a temperature sensor. See also:<br />
* [[PCB Heatbed]]<br />
* [http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L9q_ScmVcVI/UYFUGYXK-FI/AAAAAAAABUg/0AOrsgd88uY/s1600/RepRapWiringDiagram.jpg RAMPS 1.2 Wiring Diagram].<br />
* [http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapPro_Mendel_heatbed_assembly The Prusa Mendel Heatbed Assembly Article]<br />
<br />
=== More Info ===<br />
To see more details about reprap electronics, take a look at the [[List of electronics]] page.<br />
<br />
== Mechanical Body ==<br />
When it comes to the mechanical body, it can be generally broken down into two parts: <br />
# Movement along the x/y/z axes.<br />
# The print bed<br />
<br />
=== X/Y/Z Axis Motion ===<br />
Main category page for [[:Category:Mechanical arrangement|Mechanical arrangement]]<br />
<br />
When facing the front of a reprap, X axis movement is side to side, aka left to right movement, Y axis movement is forwards/backwards movement and Z axis movement is up and down along the vertical plane.<br />
<br />
Linear movement is generally accomplished using one of 2 different methods:<br />
# Belt/pulley driven motion.<br />
# Threaded rod or leadscrew motion.<br />
<br />
Belts and pulleys are good for fast/lightweight movement and threaded rods are good for slow but forceful movement. Most repraps use a combination of belts for X/Y axis movement and threaded rod for Z axis movement. <br />
<br />
==== Belts and Pulleys ====<br />
When it comes to accuracy, the most important part of your reprap is your belt/pulley combination. Current state of the art is the GT2 belt, along with a machined pulley that matches the exact bore size of your stepper motors (normally this is 5mm).<br />
<br />
There are many types of belt/pulley combinations, currently (March 2012) most in use are:<br />
;T5: These are ''asynchronous'' metric timing belts. They have trapezoidal teeth and deliberate backlash to reduce belt wear and noise for ''uni-directional'' applications. They are difficult to get in North America. The pulleys themselves though can be printed. Using a printed pulley will give you approximately the same results as if you use an MXL pulley/belt combination with the wrong bore size.<br />
;T2.5: Like the T5 these are asynchronous metric belt/pulley combinations. These have a 2.5mm (.098") pitch and are printable. With the same diameter pulleys there is a better grip (compared to t5) on the belt and will give a better result. The best results are with metal pulleys due to the fine tooth profile.<br />
;MXL: This stands for "mini extra-light". These belts have been around since the 1940s. Like T5 & T2.5, these are also asynchronous timing belts but they are common in North America because they use imperial sizes. The distance between teeth is 0.08" and the teeth are trapezoidal. You *may* be able to find pulleys that have a 5mm bore but it seems difficult. Most stepper motors have spindles that are 5mm in diameter.<br />
;HTD: This stands for "high torque drive" and was introduced by [http://www.gates.com/ Gates] in 1971. These belts have less backlash than MXL and T5 belts because the teeth are deeper and are rounded. These belts were originally patented by Gates but the Patent has since expired.<br />
;GT2: These are Gates PowerGrip® GT®2 industrial ''synchronous'' timing belts. GT stands for "Gates Tooth". GT2 came about because the HTD patents ran out and they needed a new tooth profile that was not public domain. Gates says the GT2 belts will run OK on HTD pulleys but not the other way around. GT2 belts are stronger than HTD belts, but they need the GT2 tooth profile on the pulleys to achieve their ultimate strength advantage over HTD. These may be more difficult to find everywhere.<br />
;Spectra: Spectra fiber braided fishing line is quickly becoming a popular choice to replace belts in many applications after its first implementation in Tantillus and then in many Delta printers. It is cheap and available in most cities around the world. Once tightened correctly it has almost no backlash and provides very smooth movement due to the lack of bumpy teeth and its incredibly small bend radius allowing high steps per mm.<br />
<br />
For more info see [[Choosing Belts and Pulleys]].<br />
<br />
==== Threaded rod ====<br />
Most repraps use threaded rod for the Z axis. The Z axis doesn't have to move fast (but it is better if it can move quickly) because it generally only goes up tenths of a mm at a time. Threaded rod is ok for accuracy and force. Repraps don't require force but some [[Wikipedia:CNC|CNC]] machines, use threaded rod for all 3 axes. Since the Z axis threaded rods support the weight of the x-carriage it's a good idea to use high-strength stainless steel for the rod and nut, otherwise they will suffer greater wear on the threads and experience premature failure.<br />
<br />
==== Notes on Backlash ====<br />
One thing to note about all ways of moving is ''backlash''. Backlash is that jigglyness that you feel in both threaded rod and belts/pulleys when you ''change direction''. This jigglyness/sloppiness affects accuracy.<br />
<br />
The T5 and MXL belts above were originally designed to be used as timing belts. Timing belts normally only spin in one direction so backlash is not an issue. Thus, because the GT2 belts were designed to change direction, they will be more accurate.<br />
<br />
The standard way of compensating for threaded rod backlash is to use 2 nuts and force them apart using a spring. This kind of makes sure that the nuts are always pushing against the threads so that when you change direction, it doesn't jiggle. Not sure if that makes sense but I'll leave it here anyways.<br />
<br />
=== Print Bed ===<br />
The print bed is what parts get printed on. The print bed may be stationary, like with the original reprap [[RepRapOneDarwin|Darwin]], or it may move along one of the x/y/z axes. Most repraps have the bed move along the Y axis but some will also move along the Z axis.<br />
<br />
The bed usually consists of two plates: the upper plate and the lower plate. <br />
<br />
==== Upper Plate ====<br />
The upper plate is mounted to the lower plate on springs. The springs allow it to be levelled using adjusting screws. It also (I think) was designed this way because it gives a little if you accidentally ram the print head down into it.<br />
<br />
The upper plate may or may not be heated. It's usually made of a PCB board or of metal. If the plate is heated, it will usually have a piece of glass held on top of it by bulldog clips. <br />
<br />
Tape is usually applied to the upper plate to act as a print surface. It helps the extruded plastic stick to the bed and it also makes it easier to remove the part once it's done. The two most common tape types used are blue painter's tape and kapton tape.<br />
<br />
==== Lower Plate ====<br />
Sometimes the lower plate is called the frog plate because the original mendel's lower plate kind of looked like a frog.<br />
<br />
It provides a sturdy base that the upper plate can be connected to. If the bed moves along one of the axes, then the lower plate is directly connected to the mechanism that moves the bed. For the Y axis, this usually means belts or for the Z axis, this usually means threaded rod.<br />
<br />
== Extruder ==<br />
The extruder is responsible for feeding [[filament]] through a nozzle and melting it as it's deposited onto the bed where the part is made.<br />
<br />
The extruder consists of two parts:<br />
# The cold end<br />
# The hot end<br />
<br />
Normally, the "Cold End" is connected to the "Hot End" across a thermal break or insulator. This has to be rigid and accurate enough to reliably pass the filament from one side to the other, but still prevent much of the heat transfer. The materials of choice are usually PEEK plastic with PTFE liners or PTFE with stainless steel mechanical supports or a combination of all three. <br />
<br />
However, there also exist [[Erik's_Bowden_Extruder|Bowden Extruders]] which separate the hot end from the cold end by a long tube. Bowden extruders are much faster because they are much lighter.<br />
<br />
==== Cold End ====<br />
This can get a bit confusing here People tend to refer to the cold end as an "extruder" also. In reality, it's only half of the entire extruder mechanism. The cold end is the part that mechanically feeds material to the hot end, which in turn melts it. <br />
<br />
Popular cold ends are:<br />
* [[Wade's Geared Extruder]]<br />
* [[Greg's Hinged Extruder]]<br />
* [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379 Greg's Wade's Reloaded Extruder]<br />
<br />
==== Hot End ====<br />
: See also [[Hot End Design Theory]]<br />
<br />
The hot end is arguably the most complex aspect of 3d printers as it deals with the tricky business of melting and extruding plastic filament. In general, the hot end is a metal case with<br />
# A resistor or heater cartridge that heats up so it melts the plastic (usually around 200C) <br />
# A [[thermistor]] or a [[thermocouple]] which measures the temperature<br />
The electronics basically monitor the temperature via the thermistor, then raise or lower the temperature by varying the amount of power supplied usually by some form of [[Wikipedia:Pulse_width_modulation|PWM]]<br />
<br />
see Hotend comparison:<br />
[[Hot End Comparison]] and [[Hot End]]<br />
<br />
==== Filament ====<br />
Generally, people use one of two types of filament: ABS or PLA. ABS is strongly scented when melted and warps but is relatively strong whereas PLA is said to smell like waffles and is biodegradable. ABS fumes are detrimental to one's health. ABS will bend before it breaks whereas PLA is relatively brittle. Consequently, for delicate structural roles, PLA should be used, however, for other purposes, ABS can be ideal.<br />
<br />
=== Notes on PID ===<br />
Sometimes you will hear people talk about [[Wikipedia:PID_controller|PID]] when discussing extruders. PID is a closed-loop control algorithm that engineers have been using for years. It is a mathematical algorithm that uses feedback from sensors (measuring temperature, for example) and controls an output (such as switching a heater on and off) to reach and maintain the desired setpoint (the temperature you want the extruder to have, for example).<br />
<br />
Real world example: When you are driving your car down the highway, you're doing your own PID-like function as you watch the road and adjust the steering wheel to stay in your lane. If you adjust a little bit at a time and often enough, you stay in your lane nicely. But if you wait until you hit the lines on either side of the road before adjusting the wheel, people will think you're drunk and you'll oscillate all over the road. You may still get where you're going but it won't be pretty. PIDs use constants (numbers) that have to be tuned (adjusted) to the application. To continue the driving example, drunk is having bad constants, sober is just the right numbers. <br />
<br />
Cruise control in a car is another good example of an every day [[Wikipedia:PID_controller|PID]] controller.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Design and Modelling ==<br />
<br />
=== Techniques ===<br />
<br />
==== DIY Supports ====<br />
<br />
# [[ Example_DIY_Floating_Supports_in_Blender|Example #1: 'Floating' DIY Supports (in Blender) ]]<br />
# [[ Example_DIY_Supports_2|Example #2: DIY Supports and Considerations (in Blender) ]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:RepRap machines]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=LegoStrap&diff=189829
LegoStrap
2022-12-02T01:44:21Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|name = LegoStrap<br />
|description = A Lego RepStrap<br />
|license = GNU GPLv2 or newer<br />
|author = Vdkn<br />
|reprap = Prusa Mendel<br />
|categories = [[Category:Lego]][[:Category:Lego|Lego]], [[Category:RepStrap]][[:Category:RepStrap|RepStrap]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Related Links ==<br />
<br />
Using off-the-shelf Legos:<br />
* [http://legostrap.blogspot.com/ Legostrap: Lego-based RepStrap Development blog]<br />
* [[Lego RepStrap]]<br />
* [[Lego RepStrap CartesianBot]]<br />
* [[MendeLego]]<br />
* [[NXTStrap]]<br />
* [http://www.instructables.com/id/LEGO-bot-3d-printer/ Instructables: "LEGObot 3D Printer by matstermind"] via [http://3dprinterplans.info/3d-printer-build-from-lego/ 3dprinterplans: "3D Printer Built From Lego"].<br />
* [[LegoGlue Extruder]]<br />
* [[MakerLegoBot]]<br />
<br />
Using other kinds of modular plastic parts that snap together:<br />
* [[BrickRap]]<br />
* [[Kinirap]]<br />
* [[Dollo]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=MakerLegoBot&diff=189828
MakerLegoBot
2022-12-02T01:40:46Z
<p>DavidCary: rough draft, including references.</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
The MakerLegoBot<br />
is a machine made of Legos that picks up Lego bricks and assembles them.<br />
Will Gorman designed and built the first MakerLegoBot.<br />
<br />
We are hoping that soon a MakerLegoBot will be able to assemble another copy of itself,<br />
leading to the kind of exponential growth<br />
discussed in [[Wealth Without Money]].<br />
<br />
== Related projects ==<br />
* [[Robot]]<br />
* [[RepRec Pick & Place Robots]]<br />
* [[SMT Pick-n-Place System]]<br />
<br />
== Futher reading ==<br />
<br />
* [https://www.wired.com/2010/10/legobot/ "Machine Made of Lego Builds Anything You Want -- Out of Lego"]. (Wired)<br />
* [https://hardware.slashdot.org/story/10/10/20/1348206/A-3D-Lego-Fabricator-Made-of-Lego "A 3D Lego Fabricator Made of Lego"]. (SlashDot discussion of the Wired article).<br />
* [https://slashdot.org/submission/1363776/A-3D-Lego-Fabricator-Made-of-Lego "A 3D Lego Fabricator Made of Lego"] (SlashDot discussion of the Wired article).<br />
* [http://www.battlebricks.com/makerlegobot/ "MakerLegoBot: A Lego Mindstorms NXT 3D Lego Printer"]. (detailed view of the MakerLegoBot)</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRec_Pick_%26_Place_Robots&diff=189827
RepRec Pick & Place Robots
2022-12-02T01:17:09Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Replicating Recomposers<br />
|image = RepRec-ConceptArt-1.svg | 300px<br />
|status = Concept<br />
|description = A self replicating pick and place robot made out of loads and loads of thumb sized 3D printed parts<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = mechadense<br />
|categories = {{tag | Development}}<br />
|reprap = RepRec<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''RepRecs ... Replicating Recomposers''' <br><br />
In analogy to RepRaps, RepRecs are supposed to be a whole class of devices. <br />
<br />
[[RepRec – inspiring sources]]<br />
<br />
= Definition =<br />
<br />
'''Comparison of definitions:'''<br />
* A RepRap can 3D-print its own parts for a copy of itself – <small>(Today these parts need to be assembled by a human or human built factory robot.)</small><br />
* A RepRec can assemble its own parts to a copy of itself – <small>(Parts are externally preproduced – FFF printing, casting, ... many options.)</small><br />
"Copy" as meant here includes upgraded/evolved versions beside just 1:1 carbon copies.<br />
<br />
== Definition of RepRec systems by (dis)similarity ==<br />
<br />
'''Delineation from existing pick and place robots:''' <br><br />
RepRecs are different from any currently (2017-02 ... 2022-08) existing pick and place robots. <br><br />
RepRecs differ by adhereing to several quite peculiar design principles. <br><br />
These design principles will be outlined further down, <br><br />
thereby sufficiently refining the definition of what a RepRec system is.<br />
<br />
'''Closest currently existing work:''' <br><br />
As of 2022 the project coming by far closest to the idea of RepRecs is still the 2014 work of <br><br />
Matt Moses et al. called "An architecture for universal construction via modular robotic components" <br />
[http://rpk.lcsr.jhu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Moses13_An-Architecture.pdf (link to the paper)].<br><br />
Closest does not mean close though! Be aware that this design still violates quite a number of the RepRec core design principles. <br><br />
Details on that further down ...<br />
<br />
= Defining traits of RepRecs =<br />
<br />
== Overview over design principles ==<br />
<br />
'''The four ones mandatory to remember:'''<br />
* '''frictiontaboo''' … no dependence on friction for holding things together<br />
* '''coarseness & granularity''' … keep all parts in narrow range of size and aspect ratio; not too small, not too big<br />
* '''clingyness''' … all parts are to be held in known positions at all times<br />
* '''self-centering''' … pervasive use of culled frustum self centering<br />
----<br />
* '''structural stiffness''' … proper diagonal crossbracing<br />
* '''structural isotropy''' … building blocks not natured such that they make one global direction special<br />
----<br />
'''Following from frictiontaboo and coarseness (explained later):'''<br />
* tension-rebar-principle<br />
* tension-redirection-principle<br />
'''These involve:'''<br />
* form closure (possibly with LIFO constrained; LIFO … last in first out)<br />
* cliplocks … for pervasive positive locking<br />
* clip-load-orthogonality principle<br />
----<br />
'''And minor ones like:'''<br />
* overload protection (inclusion of reversible intended breakage points)<br />
* factorout of motors & electronics<br />
<br />
== Coarseness & Granularity – Many components in narrow size range ==<br />
<br />
'''RepRecs are constituted out of a large number of mid sized monolithic components.<br> <br />
Both the size and the aspect ratio of all the component types of a RepRec lie within a narrow range.''' <br><br />
Components have a typical total-size and detail-size that lies in the lower end of the optimal range of the fabrication technology. <br><br />
<br />
The choice to Avoid large unwieldy parts is (for one reason) taken <br><br />
in order to make automated assembly with limited means (only robots of one size) much easier. <br><br />
<br />
'''Motivations for the coarseness constraint:''' <br><br />
Using only monolithic parts would mean we get none of the below:<br />
* '''compact automatability''' … only robots of one size can assembly everything<br />
* '''recompositional prototyoing''' … acceleration of rapid prototyping by part-recomposition<br />
* '''recompositional recycling''' … allow direct recycling of parts by part-recomposition<br />
* '''design transferability''' … allow design transfer to other manufacturing techniques that come with <br>a narrow range between resolution and part size (e.g. nanoscale: part details like e.g. screw threads cannot ever be smaller than atoms)<br />
<br />
How undesired parts outside the desired size range <br><br />
can best be replaced by parts inside the range <br><br />
is outlined on the [[ReChain Frame System]] page.<br />
<br />
=== Coarseness & Granularity constrain on FFF-printing ===<br />
<br />
For FDM printing that means that the components are desired to be smallish to mid-size. <br><br />
Like e.g. golf-ball size to large male fist size (detail size around golf-ball dimple size). <br><br />
<br />
'''Monolithic components must not be:'''<br />
* tiny (like tiny M3 metal screws with almost microscopic threads) or <br />
* giant (like long threaded rods or extruded aluminum profiles, big structural elements). <br />
<br />
Typically these are chosen to be vitamins despite replaceable because they are accessible and cheap. <br><br />
They pose a huge hurdle on automation of assembly though. <br><br />
Which is one reason (listed above) why we want to avoid them.<br />
<br />
=== Coarseness & Granularity constraint in future piezomechanosynthesis (nanoscale context) ===<br />
<br />
* '''Coarseness:''' Parts cannot ever have details that are smaller than atoms thus coarseness is an unavoidable prerequisite.<br />
* '''Granularity:''' <br>– Production by recompositional recycling speeds up manufacturing significantly (due to less energy turnover compared to piezosynthesis from scratch). <br>– Recompositional recycling also might save our future from many Himalayas worth of diamondioid waste.<br />
<br />
== Frictiontaboo: – Thoroughgoing abandonment of frictionusage for selfholding ==<br />
<br />
Just as [[ReChain Frame System]]s '''RepRecs thoroughgoingly refrain from the use of friction for self holding.''' No compromises are to be made here.<br />
This rather extreme design choice massively reduces the likelihood of structural failure at the contacts of the components.<br />
E.g. it prevents undetected structural loosening that creepingly degrades accuracy in operation).<br />
Because the system is composed from a big number of components very low likelihood of failure per component is important.<br />
Cheap FDM printing has inaccuracies which are most often irreproducible between the usage of different machines.<br />
These make friction fittings unpredictable and unreliable. Also without a (by requirements vitamin free) torque wrench friction is pretty much not quantifiable.<br />
As a consequence of the "no friction usage" design decision the conventional use of screws nylock-nuts wedges and stuff like that is banned.<br />
The fastening together of components is instead done by tension locked with smartly arranged clips. No slippage - all or nothing.<br />
More details about how this works exactly can be found on the factored out [[ReChain Frame System]] sub-concept.<br />
<br />
Near term macroscale RepRecs mainly assemble cheap FDM 3D printed parts but that does not necessarily exclude parts produced by other means like potentially quicker mass casting.<br />
<br />
=== Relation to stiff nanomachinery ===<br />
<br />
At the nanoscale there is near zero friction and violent thermal rattling potentially knocking everything loose.<br />
So there friction can't be used by nature and thus [[ReChain Frame System|this method]] is the only way to go for far term advanced gemstone based nanosystems.<br />
The alternatives are either:<br />
* relying on relatively weak interaction forces (VdW) which should be at least feasible for "low" performance products or <br />
* making giant monolithic covalent systems - which is a horrible recycling disaster when elements like nonburnable silicon become involved.<br />
<br />
== Other less important aspects ==<br />
<br />
=== Design decision: stationary motors ===<br />
<br />
Mounting the motors mobile onto moving axes (serial mechanics) may save some complexity as can be seen on the [[Dollo|dollo 3D-printer]] but:<br />
* They introduce quite a bit of inertial mass (well known).<br />
* Organizing the cables nicely without resorting to vitamins (cable spirals) leads to bulky cable chains (that could equally be mechanical drive-chains).<br />
* (The ulterior motive) At the nanoscale predicting mechanical behavior (quite classical) is much easier than predicting electrical behavior (quite quantum mechanical). Thus by factoring out electrical parts of the self replicating robot the design is more likely to be scaleable down to the nanoscale.<br />
<br />
= RepRecs as innovation booster =<br />
<br />
'''RepRecs may boost innovation like RepRaps did:'''<br />
* RepRaps brought FFF 3D-printing to the masses by<br>giving industry a broad hint that there is unexpectedly high nonindustrial demand.<br> This consequently spurred technological innovation considerably.<br />
* RepRecs may bring automated pick and place assembly to the masses.<br />
<br />
= Reducing human effort in the self replication cycle =<br />
<br />
'''RepRecs may revive the seemingly vaning interest in the RepRap space:''' <br><br />
3D-printers got increasingly industrial produced and the relative number of RepRaps is vaning. Why is that? <br><br />
There a number of possible reasons. One of them an especially pernicious vicious cycle. <br><br />
A vicious cycle that attracts people away from RepRap self replication. <br><br />
RepRecs may break this vicious cycle. <br><br />
<br />
'''The problem:''' A vicious cycle!<br />
* Manual assembly labor forces the part-count of RepRaps to be low and consequently parts to be in a wide range of sizes.<br />
* Parts in a wide size range forces manual assembly.<br />
<br />
'''The solution:''' Breaking the vicious cycle making a virtuous cycle.<br />
* Automated assembly allows to use very many small parts in a narrow size range. (No more minimization of part count.)<br />
* Very many parts in a small size range allow for automated assembly.<br />
<br />
The result: Manual labor taken (more) out of the picture.<br />
<br />
== Part count - size range - relationship ==<br />
<br />
Why does a lower part-count force a wider range of sizes?<br />
* Fewer parts means bigger parts because structural parts with little surface functionality become fused together to monolithic units.<br />
* Fewer parts means smaller parts because small screws are the standard way we assemble things (there is probably some deeper reason here ...).<br />
<br />
== Reconfigurability boon ==<br />
<br />
With more parts one gains the great benefit of very quick and cheap ''drastic'' reconfigurability in geometry.<br />
A simple change of linkage arm-length may be a matter of minutes instead of hours.<br />
Cartesian-robots, delta-robots, scara-robots and whatnot may share many of the same parts!<br />
No reprinting and throw-away. Just reassembly and reuse. <br />
<br />
== Fewer vitamins - slight in number - big in count ratio ==<br />
<br />
RepRec pick-and-place-robots have less vitamins than RepRaps.<br />
They have no hot-end, no filament-drive and no print-bed so more of their parts can be printed.<br />
(Well for the motors an attempt could be made to try a pneumatic actuator solution with printed TPU bellows but this is probably to slow and weak for productive usage.)<br />
But RepRaps are equally important in the the full self replication cycle. At least if they are not replaced by RepRec operated part casting or a pre-produced stock of parts (that maybe still assembled in some old structure).<br />
<br />
RepRaps produce parts waay slower than RepRaps can consume them.<br />
* If the RepRap to RepRec ratio is choosen to avoid a bottleneck (this would be RepRap a botfarm - very unlikely in DIY home settings) there is little potential in saving vitamins.<br />
* If one chooses one RepRap and one RepRec halve of the printer specific vitamins are saved.<br />
* If the same machine is used both as RepRap and RepRec the needed vitamin-count obviously unchanged from a "normal" (screw-free, frame-printed, RepRec-compatible) RepRap. <br />
<br />
In terms of part-count (not in terms of volume or mass) the vitamin to printed-part ratio can probably go way below 1%.<br />
<br />
= The parts =<br />
<br />
A good size range for the parts of a RepRec would be ~5mm ... ~5cm (factor 10) compared to<br />
0.3mm(M3-thread) ... 300m(length of threaded rod) (factor 1000) in many 3D printers.<br />
<br />
= Distinction to other self replicating pick and place robots =<br />
<br />
There is [[User:MattMoses|Matt Moses]] et al. prefabricated block based "self replication modular manufacturing system". <br><br />
Here is a paper about that system: [http://rpk.lcsr.jhu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Moses13_An-Architecture.pdf "An architecture for universal construction via modular robotic components"] ('''UCVMRC''') <br> <br />
While this is probably currently (2018) one of the projects that comes closest to the proposed class of RepRecs<br />
it is rather far away from what would count as a RepRec, maybe going into a different direction.<br />
<br />
Here's a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b04X0xsdjLg&t=38m28s video of parts of the self replication process].<br> <br />
'''Note:''' Gregory Chirikjian only describes how the mechanics works and not what actually happens. <br><br />
As I take it what happens in the video is:<br />
* There's an extended mother Tron-Recognizer-like-3DOF-assembler-tower on two rail-tracks.<br />
* It is extending its own rail-tracks. It assembles rail-tracks normal to the ones that it uses itself.<br />
* It builds up an non-extended child Tron-Recognizer-like-3DOF-assembler-tower onto the new tracks that run normal to the one itself runs on.<br />
<br />
A little earlier in the video there's a bit of [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b04X0xsdjLg&t=27m35s introduction] noting the concept of "parts complexity" (not necessarily related to the somewhat intuitive and unfortunately less formal use of "complexity" used here in the following text).<br />
<br />
'''Main differences and similarities''' between UCVMRC and the proposed class of RepRecs:<br />
* UCVMRC uses screws for assembly that are held in place due to friction forces (like pretty much every design in existence today 2018). A good RepRec would not do this but would be based on a friction usage abolishing [[ReChain Frame System]] instead. (The reasons are elaborated in preceding text) <br />
-----<br />
* While UCVMRC already aims at more heterogeneous part diversity than many other approaches RepRecs still would have much more diversity of part types '''(more external exposed complexity per part)''' more on that later in the adapter section.<br />
* While UCVRMC already aims at not including too much functionality in the base parts RepRecs still would have simpler smaller more passive parts '''(less internal enclosed complexity per part)''' more on that later in the adapter section. In particular RepRecs base parts should manage without any electrical components. (No wiper contacts, no flexing wires compensating relative motions). <br />
-----<br />
* UCVMRC and structures built by it are rather anisotropic since parts all face in the same main axis (upwards). RepRecs should not have that limitation. Means to change direction are a requirement.<br />
* UCVMRC suffers a bit from geometry that is far from ideal for maximum structural stiffness (moving masses on "levers" that stand off 90°). RepRecs should be designs such that such situations are avoided.<br />
* Just as UCVMRC Reprecs may operate on a lattice that they can extend by themselves.<br> But instead of a ''2D-grid'' RepRecs would aim at stiff ''3D-trussworks'' (octett truss). So instead of ''track-extension'' there's ''truss-extension'' (in all three spacial dimensions).<br />
* Both UCVMRC and Reprecs operate in precisely defined structured environment (low entropy, isentropic, machine phase) they can operate without feedback (without "looking" at what they are doing) in open loop control.<br />
* For locomotion of the main manipulating part of a RepRec system in a the Truss part of a Reprec System it mey be desirable to try to avoid linear rail designs and go for rotative brachiating locomotion instead (this is not absolute requirement).<br />
-----<br />
* While there is most certainly the intention to design and build a build a demonstartion instance of a RepRec system, the RepRec concept in its full generality is not a project with a strict deadline for such a demonstration instance. This likely excludes most means for funding but on the other hand makes an approach possible that does not allow any project breaking compromises to creep in.<br />
<br />
== Gripping adapters - moving internal to external complexity ==<br />
<br />
Self replicating pick-and-place robots with very low component/part specialization (that is very view generic part types like in Matt Moses design) would be useful for practical use if the constituent parts are small enough such that the created structures can be treated as a mechanical metamaterials. In this context small means almost imperceptible small by human senses. That is the parts must be at least under the 300 micron scale.<br />
<br />
The purpose Matt Moses macroscopic design: <br />
* Perfectly demonstrates the principle possibility of high degree self replication in a system of manageable complexity.<br />
* It is impractical for making almost all of everyday utility stuff. At the macro-scale a robot that is using too few types of components/parts (including non included but handleable parts) just degrades to a "nonproductive replicator". A device that only exists for the sake of demonstrating the possibility of self replication. Without producing "nectar" a robot design has no chance of explosive growth.<br />
----<br />
To get a useful productive self replicating macro-scale pick-and-place robot there are two major things:<br />
<br />
* (1) More external complexity (exposed for external function in post assembly time) must be invested in part prefabrication.<br />
<br />
That is compromises on component/part design must be kept minimal.<br />
This is easy with 3D-printing where the "voxels" are under the required 300 micron for cube like blocks with limited external functionality.<br />
<br />
Still the compromise of trying to reuse part-types (the same part design) is necessary to keep the number of part types and associated adapters low (wild guess: <300 ?)<br />
<br />
* (2) Less internal complexity (enclosed for internal function in assembly time) must be kept in the design of the parts.<br />
<br />
That is the parts can't be made to all have a point where they can be picked up with the same manipulator.<br />
Encoding The gripper-shape in all the parts is massive physical code duplication and leads to excessive physical space overhead.<br />
The interfaces to standard gripper(s) '''must''' be separated from the parts - especially the smaller ones.<br />
<br />
The result is the need for a sufficiently wide set of part adapters.<br />
Or looked at it from the perspective of the manipulator head a set of specialized end effectors coupleable to the generic manipulation head(s).<br />
<br />
Adapters of adapters may come up occasionally. Further stacking probably not.<br />
Obviously the adapters need to be well tensioned to the manipulation head when used.<br />
<br />
== Special parts / adapters / assemblies ==<br />
<br />
* part adapters<br />
* part magazines<br />
* temporary clipping tools (to not need multiple manipulators at the same time - only for use in "assembly time" removed before "use time")<br />
* tensioning tools (akin to screwdriver bits -- Note again: No locking of screws by friction intended in a RepRec!)<br />
* LIFO pre-assembly templates (e.g. gear-bearing planet placement templates ...)<br />
* FIFO pre-assembly templates (e.g. chain assembly "factory" mechanisms ...)<br />
* DOF restrictors for not yet mounted but already assembled chains (e.g. a LIFO chain coil magazine from which chains can be rolled onto sprockets while permanently keeping tension! This is difficult but important. End-effector part assemblies for locking chains to loops are their own topic.)<br />
<br />
== RepRecs operate on the 2nd assembly level ==<br />
<br />
'''(1) Full self replication involves automation of at least two steps:'''<br />
* preproduction of monolithic parts (FFF printing, automated casting would work too) from raw materials<br />
* discrete assembly of these monolithic parts into nigger assemblies <br />
<br />
Or to formalize it a bit more:<br />
Automated assembly<br />
* RepRaps – from plastic – to small monolithic parts<br />
* RepRecs – from small monolithic parts – to bigger assemblies<br />
<br />
We say they operate on different assembly levels:<br />
* RepRaps – 1st assembly level <br />
* RepRecs – 2nd assembly level<br />
Such a hierarchy is called hierarchical assembly or convergent assembly. <br><br />
'''... the latter 2nd assembly level is still missing.'''<br />
<br />
== RepRap RepRec Symbiosis? ==<br />
<br />
'''Symbiosis between RepRaps and RepRecs:'''<br><br />
As there is a symbiosis between RepRaps and humans (the idea promoted by Adrian Bowyer) <br><br />
there can be a symbiosis between RepRaps and RepRecs:<br />
* RepRaps make parts for RepRecs (most of them)<br />
* RepRecs assemble RepRaps (most of them)<br />
<br />
So things that should be assemblable with RepRecs include (among many other products) <br><br />
suitably/appropriately designed RepRaps (that is [[ReChain Frame System|ReChain]] based RepRaps - more on that later)<br />
These special RepRaps then in turn can pre-print the various base parts for RepRecs.<br />
<br />
While pre printed parts are "vitamins" for RepRecs they are not "vitamins" for RepRaps.<br />
Also there may be more efficient methods for base part preproduction like e.g. resin casting (done by RepRecs).<br />
So one might refer to these base parts as "quasi vitamins"<br />
<br />
= Related =<br />
<br />
* [[ReChain Frame System]] sub topic<br />
* [[SMT Pick-n-Place System]]<br />
* [[MakerLegoBot]]<br />
* [[Robot]]<br />
<br />
= External Links =<br />
<br />
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deltahedron Wikipedia: Deltahedron]. Usable as components for a stiff frame trusswork.<br />
* [http://infoscience.epfl.ch/record/148655/files/Rhode%20et%20al%20ES%202010.pdf "Designing tensegrity modules for pedestrian bridges" by Landolf Rhode-Barbarigos1, Nizar Bel Hadj Ali, René Motro and Ian F.C. Smith1]. Hollow tensegrity structures possibly usable as frame or frame components.<br />
* A growing list of [http://apm.bplaced.net/w/index.php?title=The_DAPMAT_demo_project parts for partially self replicating productive nanosystems] among other objects that just demonstrate novel principles encountered in future advanced atomically precise manufacturing.<br />
* [http://rpk.lcsr.jhu.edu/publications/#Robotic_Self-Replication Robot and Protein Kinematics Laboratory (RPK Laboratory) - Robotic Self-Replication]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=SMT_Pick-n-Place_System&diff=189826
SMT Pick-n-Place System
2022-12-02T01:17:01Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>A SMT pick-and-place system is a machine that can be used as part of [[Automated Circuitry Making]].<br />
To convert a RepRap 3d printer to be a multi-function machine has been the trend of another enthusiasm. There is a project known as OpenPnP. <br />
This machine picks up {{tag|surface-mount electronics}} components and places them on a PCB (hopefully in the correct location and orientation).<br />
<br />
A fully fledged SMT Pick-and-place system requires:<br />
* Grippers or a picking toolhead (see below or see Gene Hacker's [[Pick and Place ToolHead]])<br />
* PCB holder(s) (see below this page)<br />
* [[Pick-n-Place Feeders|Component feeders]]<br />
[[File:Eriks-PnP-Tape-feeder1.jpg|300px|thumb|A pick-n-place component feeder by [[User:ErikDeBruijn|Erik]]]]<br />
<br />
Optional subsystems include:<br />
* Vision systems for compensating for variations in the pick-up of a component, and for detecting correct placement, calibrating against the circuit board dimensions, etc.<br />
* [[paste Dispenser]] for placing solder paste on the PCB (although a squeegee and a solder paste stencil is probably faster if you're making more than one PCB)<br />
* 3D printed holders<br />
* Reflowing in-situ with a controlled hot-air stream.<br />
* PCB changer systems<br />
<br />
Code for this project can be found [http://smt-pick-n-place-system.googlecode.com/ on Google Code], a project started by Erik De Brunjin.<br />
<br />
FirePick Delta is intended to be a complete 3D printer that (more importantly) can <br />
, a project started by Neil Jansen, Karl Lew, Christian Lerchem, Thomas Kilbride, Dayton Pid, Dave Shanklin.<br />
* FirePick Delta: $300 Pick and Place / 3D printer. Project logs at Hackaday.[http://hackaday.io/project/963/logs]<br />
* FirePick Delta, the Open Source MicroFactory: Delta mechanism design and Frame construction.[http://hackaday.io/project/963-firepick-delta-the-open-source-microfactory/log/3327-delta-mechanism-design-and-frame-construction]<br />
* FirePick discussion group.[https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/firepick]<br />
<br />
OpenPnP, the open-source pick-and-place project<br />
* http://openpnp.org/<br />
<br />
== Grabbing parts ==<br />
Options are:<br />
* [http://hackaday.com/2011/02/08/update-open-source-pick-and-place/ Most gripper types rely on suction]<br />
* Mechanical grippers<br />
* Ferromagentic parts (e.g. most resistors) can be grabbed with an electro-magnet. <br />
<br />
== Grippers ==<br />
=== Vacuum grippers ===<br />
Possible vacuum sources:<br />
* A printed pump (such as [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4839 this one by Madox], or [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4857 this one])<br />
* Peristaltic pump (such as [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:167 Zach's]) <br />
* A positive pressure based on the Venturi-effect (can be printed)<br />
* Simple off the shelf [http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-vacuum-black-silver-635 USB-vacuum]<br />
* A piston that is actuated with a motor (lego, fishertechnik, etc.).<br />
<br />
Rubber vacuum tips:<br />
* [http://www.dealextreme.com/p/15080 here on dealextreme]<br />
* [http://www.dealextreme.com/p/15109 here on dealextreme]<br />
<br />
=== Mechanical grippers ===<br />
<br />
=== Magnetic grippers ===<br />
<br />
[https://marsohod.org/index.php/projects/138-cloning Pick-and-place machine made of printer, CD-ROM drive and floppy drive (Russian)] [https://marsohod.org/images/stories/videos/set-comp.mp4 Video] (note: downloads a 8mb file)<br />
<br />
== Holding the PCB ==<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigthirstytowels/2724721352/sizes/o/in/photostream/ These kinds of studs with magnets] are useful for holding PCBs.<br />
<br />
It's pretty much impossible to repeatably hold the PCB at exactly the "correct" location.<br />
So most proprietary and most open-source pick-and-place systems rigidly clamp the PCB to some position within a few mm of the nominal "correct" position, then use machine vision algorithms to look at where the PCB actually is, and then compensate for small offsets and rotation of the PCB.<br />
<br />
== placing parts ==<br />
<br />
After a person finishes a PCB layout, that person generates a bunch of "manufacturing files".<br />
One of those files lists, for each component on the board, an X,Y location and exactly what kind of component goes there.<br />
(It also lists the X,Y location of each [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Practical_Electronics/PCB_Layout#Fiducial fiducial].)<br />
<br />
The pick-and-place machine goes to the component feeder holding exactly that kind of component, picks it up, and then moves to that X,Y location and puts it down.<br />
Simple, right?<br />
<br />
Well, it doesn't go exactly to that X,Y location.<br />
Before picking up any parts, the pick-and-place machine moves to the X,Y location of each fiducial on the board, and uses a down camera -- rigidly mounted to the placement head -- to look at the board and measure the X,Y offset of each fiducial,<br />
which the machine uses to compensate for small offsets and rotation of the PCB.<br />
(This also helps prevent dropping a lot of parts on a board that is accidentally loaded upside down, or no board at all is loaded, or the wrong board is loaded in the machine, or the wrong manufacturing file is loaded for this particular board).<br />
<br />
The down camera is also used to look for a part to pick up,<br />
so the machine can ask the humans for more parts when the part feeder or part tray is empty.<br />
After the part is found, the down camera looks at the top of the part and helps position the nozzle at the exact X,Y center of that part.<br />
<br />
After picking up a part, many machines hold that part over an up-camera that looks at the bottom of the part (or holds it over a mirror that allows the down camera to see the bottom of the part as a reflection in the mirror, a virtual up-camera).<br />
Occasionally the machine discovers there is no part on the nozzle -- either it failed to actually pick up the part, or the part somehow fell off between the part feeder and the up-camera. (When this happens too often, the machine signals for some human to crank up the vacuum power or swap out a more appropriate pick-up tip or etc).<br />
Usually the up-camera sees that the part is not exactly centered on the tip, and has some unwanted rotation.<br />
The machine rotates the tip until the up-camera sees that the part is in the "correct" rotation.<br />
Then the machine uses the up-camera to figure out what X,Y compensation it needs to use to get the part to the correct location on the board.<br />
<br />
After picking up and appropriately rotating a fine-pitch IC,<br />
the pick-and-place machine looks for the fiducials on the board *again* --<br />
often the person who lays out the PCB puts 2 fiducials at 2 opposite corners of where the IC *should* go, which makes it easier for the machine to put that part in the correct location -- the geometric center of the part goes exactly at the geometric center of the 2 fiducials, etc.<br />
(compensated by the X,Y offset of the part on the nozzle as seen by the up-camera).<br />
<br />
== Other operations ==<br />
=== Printing the component and work holders ===<br />
To make the setup operations easier to perform accurately, the tool holders could be printed just before pick-n-place operations start. This ensures that the PCB is parallel to the XY plane of the cartesian bot.<br />
<br />
=== Circuit making ===<br />
If a circuit could be printed or milled in the same machine, this would save you setup time. This is discussed at: [[Pick-n-Place Feeders]]. See also: [[Printing electronics]].<br />
<br />
=== Reflow soldering ===<br />
Usually reflow is done in a controlled oven and the temperature should follow a specific curve. This is to prevent sensitive devices such as LEDs from overheating and to still properly reflow the paste at every solder joint. However, I ([[User:ErikDeBruijn|Erik]]) have good experiences with a hot air stream that can be fed from the toolhead, meaning that you can also reflow the boards in the same machine. So far I've been using [[http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/100759634.html this rework station]] successfully.<br />
<br />
== Great resources ==<br />
* [http://www.robotdigg.com/category/27 RobotDigg OpenPnP]<br />
* [http://hackaday.com/tag/pick-and-place/ Hack-a-day on Pick-n-place]<br />
* [http://www.ladyada.net/wiki/mdcpickandplace/ Adafruit's wiki]<br />
* [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/openpnp OpenPnP], the mailing list for the open-source pick-and-place project<br />
* [http://www.briandorey.com/category/DIY-Pick-and-Place Brian Dorey's DIY Pick and Place project blog]; many of the hardware CNC files and software for this pick and place machine have been released under an open-source license at [https://github.com/briandorey?tab=repositories Brian Dorey's github account]<br />
* [https://learn.adafruit.com/smt-manufacturing "Adafruit: SMT manufacturing"] describes a variety of tools and tricks and shortcuts for putting parts on a PCB and taking them off.<br />
* solder paste stencil tutorials.[https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/58][http://www.spikenzielabs.com/blog/?p=669][http://ohararp.com/stencils/][http://www.jayconsystems.com/tutorial/how_to_stencil/][https://forum.sparkfun.com/viewtopic.php?t=20112]<br />
<br />
A few projects are working on picking up and placing other kinds of parts (not just electronic components onto a PCB):<br />
* [[RepRec Pick & Place Robots]]<br />
* [[MakerLegoBot]]<br />
* [[Robot]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Pick-n-Place]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics manufacturing]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Dollo&diff=189825
Dollo
2022-11-26T20:00:02Z
<p>DavidCary: fix broken link</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Dollo<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Dollofeatured_(1).jpg<br />
|description = Dollo is trying to make 3D printers scale on their own<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Benjamin and Ben Engel<br />
|reprap = Dollo<br />
|url = https://github.com/benbeezy/Dollo<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=6><br />
image:Dollo_Rendering.jpeg | Rendered in Blender from the 3D printable .stl files<br />
image:Dollo6.jpg<br />
image:Dollo1.jpg<br />
image:Dollo7.jpg<br />
image:Dollo2.jpg<br />
image:Dollofeatured_(1).jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Kickstarter ==<br />
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/917928346/dollo-3d-a-3d-printer-that-prints-more-3d-printers?ref=user_menu<br />
<br />
==Download ==<br />
You can get all of the files, including parts list, firmware (for multiple different boards), and all of the .stl files and .scad files. So you can see free to change the files in any way or shape that you want to (we want you do to make it your own!)<br />
<br />
[[https://github.com/benbeezy/Dollo | Github]]<br />
<br />
==Goals==<br />
<br />
Goals for Dollo are:<ref><br />
[https://github.com/benbeezy/Dollo "Dollo on github"].<br />
</ref><br />
# Make a 3D printer that can make [[Development_Pathway#more_self-replicating| as many of its own parts as possible]]<br />
# Have it so [[scaling | the machine can scale]] with little to no throwing away of old parts<br />
# Make it [[RepRap Breeder | easy to assemble]]<br />
# Use no more than a single 1KG spool of plastic to make.<br />
# Make it as low cost as possible.<br />
# use [[acquisition of parts | parts that are easy to find]].<br />
# make it durable (since it can print its own parts this isn't super high priority)<br />
# hope people stop asking "what if you could 3D print a 3D printer" because of course you can and its not that unique of an idea<br />
<br />
==Other sites info on Dollo==<br />
<br />
[[http://dollo3d.com | Dollo3d.com]]<br />
[[https://3dprint.com/63229/dollo-3d-printer-prints-itself | 3Dprint.com]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Dollo&diff=189824
Dollo
2022-11-26T19:56:04Z
<p>DavidCary: add goals (with links to related RepRap wiki pages)</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Dollo<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Dollofeatured_(1).jpg<br />
|description = Dollo is trying to make 3D printers scale on their own<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Benjamin and Ben Engel<br />
|reprap = Dollo<br />
|url = [dollo3d.com]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px perrow=6><br />
image:Dollo_Rendering.jpeg | Rendered in Blender from the 3D printable .stl files<br />
image:Dollo6.jpg<br />
image:Dollo1.jpg<br />
image:Dollo7.jpg<br />
image:Dollo2.jpg<br />
image:Dollofeatured_(1).jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Kickstarter ==<br />
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/917928346/dollo-3d-a-3d-printer-that-prints-more-3d-printers?ref=user_menu<br />
<br />
==Download ==<br />
You can get all of the files, including parts list, firmware (for multiple different boards), and all of the .stl files and .scad files. So you can see free to change the files in any way or shape that you want to (we want you do to make it your own!)<br />
<br />
[[https://github.com/benbeezy/Dollo | Github]]<br />
<br />
==Goals==<br />
<br />
Goals for Dollo are:<ref><br />
[https://github.com/benbeezy/Dollo "Dollo on github"].<br />
</ref><br />
# Make a 3D printer that can make [[Development_Pathway#more_self-replicating| as many of its own parts as possible]]<br />
# Have it so [[scaling | the machine can scale]] with little to no throwing away of old parts<br />
# Make it [[RepRap Breeder | easy to assemble]]<br />
# Use no more than a single 1KG spool of plastic to make.<br />
# Make it as low cost as possible.<br />
# use [[acquisition of parts | parts that are easy to find]].<br />
# make it durable (since it can print its own parts this isn't super high priority)<br />
# hope people stop asking "what if you could 3D print a 3D printer" because of course you can and its not that unique of an idea<br />
<br />
==Other sites info on Dollo==<br />
<br />
[[http://dollo3d.com | Dollo3d.com]]<br />
[[https://3dprint.com/63229/dollo-3d-printer-prints-itself | 3Dprint.com]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Development_Pathway&diff=189823
Development Pathway
2022-11-26T19:00:39Z
<p>DavidCary: /* more self-replicating */ link to related page</p>
<hr />
<div>=Working Notes, please log in and edit!=<br />
<br />
These should be autogenerated by the 'Development' catagory or template. Or integrated in some other manner.<br />
<br />
[[Development]]<br />
<br />
As we mention when discussing the [[Combinatorics Problem]],<br />
a new design can be "better" from some other design in many different ways.<br />
<br />
Erik de Bruijn lists these broad areas of potential improvements:<br />
<ref><br />
Erik de Bruijn.<br />
[http://thesis.erikdebruijn.nl/master/MScThesis-ErikDeBruijn-2010.pdf "On the viability of the open source development model for the design of physical objects. Lessons learned from the RepRap project"].<br />
2010.<br />
In particular, "3.1.3 Technological innovations" and "Appendix C".<br />
</ref><br />
* Added functionality:<br />
** Use of ceramics and pastes instead of thermoplastics<br />
** The ability to function in subtractive as well as additive operating modes (e.g., Hydra-MMM).<br />
** The ability to mix multiple materials.<br />
** Embedding wire and conductive materials<br />
* extended auxiliary tools (Erik de Bruijn, "On the viability ..."; "3.1.3 Technological innovations")<br />
* Improved existing functionality<br />
** Faster, more efficient, more detailed and/or stronger output<br />
* Increased ease of assembly and use<br />
* Lower cost<br />
* More suitable components (e.g. easier-to-acquire)<br />
* Specialization towards a certain application<br />
** Digital pottery system<br />
* Interoperability with other systems<br />
** Compatibility with G-Code common in industrial CNC installations<br />
** platform independent software<br />
* Improved design architecture (e.g. modularization, part consolidation)<br />
* Refining operating techniques<br />
* Improved sharing infrastructure<br />
<br />
Better electronics is discussed at [[Alternative Electronics]].<br />
Better host software is discussed at [[Host software Variations]].<br />
Many ideas for making things better are listed at [[ideas to place]] and [[FuturePlans]].<br />
<br />
Ideas for a better website, enabling easier collaboration, are discussed at [[Library/Notes]].<br />
<br />
=Increased Resolution=<br />
* [[microstepping with optical feedback]]<br />
* [[CamRap]]<br />
<br />
=Materials Selection=<br />
<br />
discussions of the pros and cons of various frame materials go in [[frame material]].<br />
<br />
discussions of the various materials that can be shaped by a RepRap are currently at [[MaterialsScience]].<br />
<br />
discussions of the various techniques used to shape various materials are currently at [[Materials/Appropriate Machines]].<br />
<br />
discussions of particular tool heads used on a RepRap to shape particular materials are at [[RepRapToolHeads]] and [[FutureToolIdeas]].<br />
<br />
=== [[Laser Cutter]] ===<br />
<br />
=== [[SLSRap]] ===<br />
[[SLSRap]] is a RepRap which [[SLS]]s its own optics fixtures like lens holders and so on.<br />
<br />
''By SLS, are you referring to selective laser sintering [[SLS Printer]] ?''<br />
<br />
=Post-Mendel Designs=<br />
*[[Eiffel]]<br />
*[[MetalicaRap]]<br />
<br />
= Basic Box =<br />
[[RBS/Basic Box | Basic Box]] is a waypoint to developing a [[RBS]] [[SplineScan]] cabinet.<br />
<br />
=RepStraps=<br />
*[[FlatPack]] RepStrap<br />
*[[Extruded Aluminum RepStrap]]<br />
*[[Large Wooden Box RepStrap]]<br />
<br />
=Increased Build Area=<br />
<br />
[[Development:Mendel Apollo]] and<br />
[[MegaRap]]<br />
<br />
=== MegaRap ===<br />
'''[[Mendel]] is great, but I can currently<br />
* Carry it through a standard doorway<br />
* Lift it by myself<br />
* Fit it in the back seat or trunk of a car<br />
* Use it on a corner of my desk (as opposed to a dedicated room in a house, or a shed, garage, or barn)<br />
'''<br />
<br />
We at RepRap agree [[scaling]] is a real problem. That's why <span style="font-size:250%">MegaMendel</span> is here to help!<br />
<br />
Gert Joergensen has built the [[MegaMendel]], a mighty machine with a build area of 766mm x 453mm x 497mm.<br />
<br />
Some [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,176260 "Need bigger surface!"] ideas for scaling up to 200 mm x 400 mm heated bed, might apply to even larger scales.<br />
<br />
There's been some discussion [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,129040 "RepRap / RepStrap for making Aerodynamic Models"] circa 500mm x 500mm x 500mm.<br />
<br />
There's been some discussion of a [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?152,132060 "1 x 1 m print area reprap"].<br />
<br />
Someone<sup>who?</sup> has built [[LeBigRep]], an even bigger machine with a build area of 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm.<br />
-- a [[Cubic Meter Bot]].<br />
<br />
Perhaps you can [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,169146 "Help me design a large Rostock"] 4ft diameter (1.2 m diameter).<br />
<br />
If that is not big enough,<br />
[[MegaRap]] is a (currently hypothetical) RepRap. It may be a [[PourStrap]] or [[WeldStrap]] and is definitely a [[CNC Router]] which can process 4 ft x 8 ft sheets of plywood, foam, etc.<br />
See [[CNC router#BigRap]], [[RouterStrap]].<br />
<br />
Many people would like a CNC machine big enough to hold a "full-sized sheet" of 1.2 m × 2.4 m ( 4 feet × 8 feet, aka "four by eight" or "48 x 96") sheet of [[Wikipedia: plywood]] or MDF or other [[Wikipedia: engineered wood]] or foam, etc.; and then cut it into [[FlatPack]] parts.<br />
<br />
Are there any good ideas we can take from larger devices -- the [http://openfarmtech.org/index.php/Torch_Table_Build open-source torch table], the [[RouterStrap#MechMate]], etc. -- that we can scale down and apply to the MegaRap?<br />
<br />
The [[B&TRap]] -- using 3 cords -- can, in principle, be easily expanded to any size.<br />
<br />
=[[PourStrap]]=<br />
<br />
=== FlatPack PourStrap ===<br />
A [[Flatpack PourStrap]] is a [[PourStrap]] where the mold is made from sheets of acrylic or wood. The sheets are cut using a laser cutter, cnc router, or table saw.<br />
<br />
= Better electronics ==<br />
<br />
: ''main article: [[Alternative Electronics#Goals]]''<br />
<br />
=Library=<br />
Along with a few dozen post-mendel and RepStrap designs, we want a [[library]] of [[Library/6x10000s Problem|10,000 or so things]] to make with RepRaps.<br />
<br />
See [[Available Files]] for parts we already have in our library.<br />
<br />
== more self-replicating ==<br />
<br />
How can we tweak the design of a RepRap to make it more self-reproducing?<br />
<br />
''(Is there a page that talks about "tweaking the design to make it more self-reproducing"? Please move the following ideas be moved to that page.)''<br />
<br />
Adrian Bowyer's work changed the lives of some people such as architectural students who print models of buildings and entire cities, engineering students who print models of gears and get a much more intuitive understanding of how they fit together, etc.<br />
Before Adrian Bowyers work, those students couldn't even afford to rent time on a prototyping machine, much less own their own machine.<br />
<br />
But some researchers feel that the current crop of low-cost fully-assembled prototyping machines based on Adrian's work, while they arguably work even better at printing models of buildings and gears, misses out on some world-changing ideas:<br />
* A few people at a single location at a single company mass-producing identical machines is inevitably going to come up with ideas for improvement at a slower rate than a diverse collection of people all over the planet, each one building on the work of people that came before and sharing improvements to the people who come after.<br />
* Rather than shipping a complete machine -- or even all the parts of a complete machine -- to someone that wants one, material costs and shipping costs and shipping time and time-to-build can potentially be reduced even further by taking advantage of local materials and local manufacturing capacity. (Ideally *everything* can be sourced locally, completely eliminating shipping time).<br />
* Given a primitive early version of a RepRap, it is in principle possible to directly print out and assemble a much later, vastly improved RepRap, and then (indirectly) print out and assemble the very latest RepRap with all the latest capabilities.<br />
* If everyone who builds a RepRap prints out 2 complete sets of parts and sends them to 2 other people who then build a RepRap (who continue the chain for 33 levels), everyone on the planet can have one -- see [[doubling time]].<br />
* Darwinian Marxism, as described in [[Wealth Without Money]]: when each machine is individually built and owned by the person who is going to use it, and each person contributes some improvement, no matter how small, then the improvements accumulate.<br />
<br />
Many people find the idea of a [[Wikipedia: self-replicating machine]], in particular machines that have a [[doubling time]], fascinating to think about.<br />
Adrian Bowyer's [[Wealth Without Money]] essay mentions<br />
a "a rapid-prototyping machine that can make all its components other than" a short list of critical components, and hints at "the desirable aim of shortening or eliminating [that list] altogether."<br />
RepRap researchers often metaphorically refer to parts on that short list as [[vitamin]]s.<br />
People discussing a [[RepLab]] or [[:category: RepRap machines]]<br />
often use phrases such as the "reprappiness factor"[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,206458,255328#msg-255328] or [[User:Spiritdude#Replicability | "replicability factor"]] or [[User:Spiritdude#Replicability Factor | "RepRap Factor"]] or "more replicable"[http://benjamin-engel.blogspot.com/2012/07/ben-bot.html] or [[Alt Select Mechanics | "% RepRap-able" ]] or "largely self reproducing" or "mostly self-replicating" or "largely self replicating" or "the percentage of the device that is printable" or "100% [[Self replicating reprap]]".<br />
<br />
Several researchers are developing ways to reduce the vitamins required to build a functional 3D printer:<br />
* printable actuators -- eliminating non-printable stepper motors -- [[Actuator Fabrication]]<br />
* printable frame -- eliminating [[threaded rod]] used in the frame -- [[Tantillus]], [[GolemB]], etc.<br />
* printable motion control -- eliminating linear and rotary bearings, or the smooth rods and threaded rod used as screw drive, or both -- [[Bamboo Printer]], [[PLA bushings]], [[:Category:Printable bearing]], Ben Bot[[http://benjamin-engel.blogspot.com/2012/07/ben-bot.html]], etc.<br />
* printable electronics -- [[Automated Circuitry Making]]<br />
* printable fasteners -- eliminating nuts and bolts and other non-printable fasteners -- [[MultiRep]], [[MTM Snap]], etc.<br />
<br />
However, other researchers are keeping the same or increasing the vitamins, in order to reach [[#Other design goals]].<br />
<br />
<br />
===[[Ruggedisation]]===<br />
<br />
=== objectively measuring more or less self-replicating ===<br />
<br />
Alas, there seems to be a lot of confusion about whether a machine is "self-replicating",<br />
and about how to measure how self-replicating it is.<br />
''(TODO: summarize comments on this topic from''<br />
''[[ConvertingARepStrapToAFull-blownRepRap]],''<br />
''[[Talk:Orca#Re: whether it.27.3Bs a "true reprap" or not:]],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,172844 "Convergence to self replicating"],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,202918,203672#msg-203672 "Dreaming of a Static Motor Arrangement and Less Vitamins"],''<br />
''[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,37085 "95% reprappable repraps"],''<br />
''etc.).''<br />
Everyone agrees that a (common) machine built of parts, a machine that cannot print out *any* of those parts, is not self-replicating. At best it is a [[RepStrap]].<br />
Everyone agrees that a (hypothetical) machine that one can drop on an asteroid, in total isolation, and the machine somehow harvests iron and rock and sunlight and transforms it into all the parts needed to build 2 machines identical to the original machine, is "100% self replicating",<br />
a [[fully printable reprap]].<br />
But in-between cases are not so clear.<br />
<br />
A variety of ways to objectively measure how "self-replicating" one machine is (a "metric") have been proposed.<br />
So far, all of these metrics have some flaw or another.<br />
<br />
* '''minimize vitamin/total weight ratio.''' Flaw: adding a bunch of non-functional plastic spikes to each printed part increases the total weight of the machine, artificially improving this measure, but most people would say that is not a real improvement.<br />
* '''maximize the [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,160546,160598#msg-160598 "actual volume of printed parts"]''' Flaw: adding a bunch of non-functional plastic spikes to each printed part increases the total weight of the machine, artificially improving this measure, but most people would say that is not a real improvement.<br />
* '''minimize total cost of the vitamins.''' Flaw: because of currency fluctuations and shipping cost variations, this is arguably not an objective measure. Also, replacing two euros worth of bolts that I can get tonight, with a hundred euros worth of plastic parts that would take me days to print out, seems counter-productive.<br />
* '''minimize total cost.''' through various [[Cost Reduction]] ideas. Flaw: one way to do this is to freeze the design and use mass-production high-volume manufacturing techniques to improve the economy of scale, but that misses out on the "continuous improvement" possible when each RepRap built can be different and possibly better than the next. Also, because of currency fluctuations and shipping cost variations, this is arguably not an objective measure.<br />
** cost of vitamins (including shipping)<br />
** cost of raw plastic feedstock<br />
** cost of printing (electricity, especially for heated bed)<br />
** labor cost * assembly time (see [[doubling time]])<br />
* '''minimize time to assemble.''' Many researchers have pointed out that time-to-assemble is far more important than initially realized -- [[RepRapBreeding]], [[RepRap Breeder]], [[Bonsai RepStrap]], [[Walkabout]], [[:Category: Loaner Program]], [[Print It Forward]], etc. Flaw: If I buy some (allegedly) ready-to-go machine, this time is (allegedly) zero. But most people would say this isn't really self-replicating.<br />
* '''minimize [[doubling time]]''' -- time to assemble from parts, plus time to print out a new set of parts and wait for the remaining vitamins to be shipped in. Flaw: If I buy some nearly-ready-to-go machine and insert a single part into that machine, and then the machine can print out only that one single part (the rest of the machine is "vitamins"), this time can be very short (overnight shipping plus time-to-insert), but most people would say this isn't very self-replicating.<br />
* '''minimize the number of unique vitamins'''. Flaw: one obvious "improvement" that improves this measure is to reduce the unique parts from "threaded rod, nuts, bolts" to "threaded rod, nuts" -- by replace each bolt with a piece of studding cut to the same length as the original bolt plus a nut or two to act as the head. Is this really an improvement?<br />
* '''minimize the number of exotic, single-source parts''', replacing them with "jellybean" parts available from multiple sources<br />
* '''minimize the cost and weight of the tools required to make the parts of the machine''': Replace parts that can only be made on a quarter-million-dollar machine with parts that can be turned on a big $20,000 manual lathe. Replace parts that can only be made on a big lathe with parts that can be made with a small $2,000 desktop CNC machine mill. Replace parts that can only be made with a lathe or CNC with parts that can be cut with a $200 circular saw. Replace parts that require at least a circular saw with parts that can be cut with a $20 hand saw. For example, the [[ScrewRap]] with its "Minimal tools" goal. Flaw: it is unclear whether designs using lots of [[T-Slot]] should be considered highly replicable by this criteria -- considering the T-slot as raw material that can relatively easily be cut by low-cost tools -- or whether it is not very replicable by this criteria -- since it requires highly specialized equipment to make the T-slot from aluminum stock.<br />
* Certain RepRap subassemblies have been designed to be "easy to make", "do-it-yourselfable" -- in particular, many [[Gen7 Stories]] show hand-built electronics using off-the-shelf prototyping board that can be easily customized. Designs using [[:category: through-hole electronics]] and prototyping board are sometimes said to be more self-replicating than most [[category: surface-mount electronics]] that require a custom mass-produced PCB with higher up-front NRE costs and tiny parts that seem to be impossible to hand-solder.<br />
* '''minimize the number of parts that have to be shipped in from distant places''', replacing them with locally-sourced parts or printed parts. [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,160546,160770#msg-160770 "build a printer from whatever you can find in a local hardware store."]<br />
* A set of machines, each of which can't make *any* of its own parts, but which collectively can make all of the parts of every machine in the set (what [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,172844,175259#msg-175259 MattMoses calls "Cyclic Fabrication Systems"]), are sometimes said to be self-replicating. See [[RepLab]].<br />
* Machines that can build all the parts for [[solar cell manufacturing]] factories that can produce solar cells that can power the original machines are sometimes said to be more self-replicating that machines that rely on the electrical power grid, but this idea isn't captured by any of the above proposed measurements.<br />
<br />
Is there some objective measure of "percent self-replicating" that avoids these flaws?<br />
<br />
== Other design goals ==<br />
<br />
Some researchers have yet other design goals or [[TRap#Design Philosophy | "design philosophy"]].<br />
<br />
Some researchers deliberately tweak a design in ways that make it less self-replicating -- i.e., a "Vitamin-Rich RepRap" (see [[Kludgebot]]) -- in attempts to satisfy other design goals:<br />
<br />
* Simplicity<br />
** fewer unique kinds of parts -- it's much quicker to find a certain kind of part in a pile of 100 parts of 2 kinds than to find a certain kind of part in a pile of 50 parts, all of them unique. Also, bulk discounts often make it cost much less to buy 100 bolts in 2 different sizes than 50 bolts, each one unique.<br />
** fewer total number of parts -- reducing the assembly time. ([[LaserCut Mendel]], [[MakiBox]], [[R 360]], etc. mention this as a goal).<br />
* small and rugged to make [[transportation]] easier.<br />
* [[education]]<br />
** Using a 3D printer helps develop certain skills. What features of a RepRap or RepStrap help people develop those skills?<br />
** Building a 3D printer helps develop certain other skills. What features of a RepRap or RepStrap help people develop those skills? As a negative example, if a design is so difficult to assemble that many people give up on the project -- I'm looking at you, [[McWire (Death March: Do not build!!!)]] -- then those people can be tricked into thinking they aren't smart enough to assemble any 3D printer -- "learned helplessness".<br />
* ...<br />
* ...<br />
<br />
A few other design goals are mentioned at [[ideas to place]].<br />
<br />
= Further reading =<br />
<br />
* these Development Pathway notes may slightly replicate and encapsulate the [[Gada Prize]] stuff.<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,76497,76702 "Design a perfect 3D printer"] asks: "If you can design a 'perfect' 3D printer, what would you do?"<br />
<br />
=References=<br />
<references/><br />
<br />
[[Category:Community suggestions]]<br />
[[Category:Development| ]]<br />
[[Category:RepStrap| ]]<br />
[[Category:CNC machines| ]]<br />
[[Category:LaserCut| ]]<br />
[[Category:SLS| ]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=LegoStrap&diff=189822
LegoStrap
2022-11-24T06:34:58Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|name = LegoStrap<br />
|description = A Lego RepStrap<br />
|license = GNU GPLv2 or newer<br />
|author = Vdkn<br />
|reprap = Prusa Mendel<br />
|categories = [[Category:Lego]][[:Category:Lego|Lego]], [[Category:RepStrap]][[:Category:RepStrap|RepStrap]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Related Links ==<br />
<br />
Using off-the-shelf Legos:<br />
* [http://legostrap.blogspot.com/ Legostrap: Lego-based RepStrap Development blog]<br />
* [[Lego RepStrap]]<br />
* [[Lego RepStrap CartesianBot]]<br />
* [[MendeLego]]<br />
* [[NXTStrap]]<br />
* [http://www.instructables.com/id/LEGO-bot-3d-printer/ Instructables: "LEGObot 3D Printer by matstermind"] via [http://3dprinterplans.info/3d-printer-build-from-lego/ 3dprinterplans: "3D Printer Built From Lego"].<br />
* [[LegoGlue Extruder]]<br />
<br />
Using other kinds of modular plastic parts that snap together:<br />
* [[BrickRap]]<br />
* [[Kinirap]]<br />
* [[Dollo]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=GUS_Simpson&diff=189502
GUS Simpson
2022-02-24T21:17:04Z
<p>DavidCary: fix broken link, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RepRapNavigation|name=GUS Simpson|optional_field=electronics and calibration}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = GUS Simpson<br />
|status = experimental<br />
|image = Simpson2013.jpg<br />
|description = Grounded Delta Printer<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Nicholas.seward<br />
|reprap = [[RepRap Morgan]], [[Rostock]], [[Delta]]<br />
|categories = <br />
|cadModel = [https://github.com/NicholasSeward/ConceptFORGE/tree/master/GUS%20Simpson Github]<br />
|url = [https://web.archive.org/web/20190608163441/http://conceptforge.org/ ConceptForge.org]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
GUS Simpson is a experimental grounded [[Wikipedia:Delta_robot|delta robot]] 3D printer prototype, built in 2013 by [[User:nicholas.seward|Nicholas Seward]] in Hot Springs, Arkansas, USA. Simpson is named after George Gaylord Simpson who came up with the idea of Quantum Evolution, the theory that evolution can happen in abrupt burst. The name signifies that this is a quick divergence (idea to first print in 1 month) from other existing designs. <br />
<br />
GUS Simpson is in the [[Simpson]] family of 3d printers.<br />
<br />
== Design Goals ==<br />
<br />
== Specifications == <br />
<br />
== Videos ==<br />
<br />
<videoflash>IEGTe1G2Gqs</videoflash> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEGTe1G2Gqs<br />
<br />
<videoflash>AsebptQyKwg</videoflash> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsebptQyKwg<br />
<br />
<videoflash>y-m7OpprDDs</videoflash> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-m7OpprDDs<br />
<br />
== Firmware ==<br />
<br />
While reportedly in the works, there is currently no firmware which allows the GUS Simpson to appear like a standard cartesian 3D printer. Thus, you cannot just send it gcode directly from your slicer and expect anything other than utter havoc.<br />
<br />
Printing is currently achieved using any vanilla firmware which can directly control X, Y, and Z steppers, using a [https://github.com/NicholasSeward/ConceptFORGE/tree/master/GUS%20Simpson/GCODE%20PREPROCESSOR gcode preprocessor] to transform the cartesian gcode commands into something that makes sense for the delta configuration of the GUS Simpson. With this method, it makes no difference which firmware you use ([http://www.repetier.com/download/ Repetier] is used by the original author). If you do this, make sure you don't forget to always use the gcode preprocessor or bad things will happen!<br />
<br />
== Software ==<br />
<br />
== Homing ==<br />
<br />
== RepRapNess ==<br />
At this point the GUS Simpson cannot produce the dimensionally accurate parts required for self replication.<br />
<br />
== Future Developments ==<br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
<br />
1. [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,206458 RepRap Forum Development thread: Grounded Experimental Delta Printer]<br />
<br />
2. [http://www.youtube.com/user/nickseward/videos Nicholas Seward's Youtube Channel]<br />
<br />
3. [https://github.com/NicholasSeward/ConceptFORGE/tree/master/GUS%20Simpson Github Repository]<br />
<br />
4. [http://forum.conceptforge.org ConceptFORGE forums]<br />
<br />
[[Category:GUS Simpson| ]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Lubrication&diff=189391
Lubrication
2021-11-11T23:09:41Z
<p>DavidCary: fill in a few details, with references.</p>
<hr />
<div>Lubrication is important aspect of every CNC machine and the [[RepRap]] is no exception. Proper lubrication will make your machine run smoothly, will suppress or even remove ugly noises and reduce wear and tear of your components. This article is a practical overview of lubricants compatible with the RepRap project, but it may be useful to understand the physics. Lubricants work by being slippery, and forming a barrier between two friction surfaces. Thick, viscous lubricants can maintain a barrier without squeezing out even under high pressures. Due to their viscosity, however, they may be more sticky than slippery. There is a trade off, and RepRap requires much thinner lubricants than axle grease or engine oil. [[Wikipedia: Lubrication]] is a good overview of the theoretical mechanisms of lubrication.<br />
<br />
For each lubricant, there are several factors to take into account:<br />
<br />
* Viscosity/squeez out pressure- a thick grease might clog up your bearings, but would be fine on a threaded rod. ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number see NLGI Grade])<br />
* Reactivity - will the lube soften or dissolve your plastic? Most lubricants are formulated for steel, but not all. It might also react if combined with other lubricants.<br />
* Friction - all lubricants are designed to reduce friction, but some get closer to zero than others. Some are formulated for ultra-high speeds & heat reduction, for example.<br />
* Maintenance - RepRap doesn't wear out lubricant anywhere near as quickly as your car, but dust and grime will accumulate in a sticky oil. <br />
<br />
There was a recent discussion in the forums regarding lubrication. <br />
The information on this page might need to be updated. <br />
[[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,62876,63203#msg-63203 Reprap-Compatible Grease]]<br />
--[[User:Buback|Buback]] 22:21, 25 October 2010 (UTC)<br />
[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,116453,116566,quote=1 "Linear bearing compatible lubrication?"].<br />
<br />
=Lubricants by application=<br />
<br />
The main parts of the [[RepRap]] machine that need to be lubricated are:<br />
<br />
* Threaded Rod <br />
* Bearings and bearing rails<br />
* Bushings (if used instead of bearings)<br />
<br />
==Threaded Rod==<br />
Both [[Darwin]] and [[Mendel]] [[RepRap]] models have multiple Z-stage drives constructed using threaded rod and a captive nut, though some experimental or [[RepStrap]] machines use only one. There are [[RepRap]] clones that have X and Y also made with threaded rod and a nut. Friction between nut and threaded rod, especially under the load of the Z platform in [[Darwin]] based models is huge and if not lubricated the Z-Stage will produce ugly squeaking sounds and rub off metal powder, and soon your threaded rods will show signs of wear and tear (especially if you use a lot of Z-Motion). Properly lubricating the rods will reduce the wear and tear on the rods (not to mention reducing the ugly sounds).<br />
So far, high viscosity [[PTFE]] filled oil ([http://www.super-lube.com/synthetic-oil-with-ptfe-high-viscosity-ezp-56.html super-lube for example]) shown best results here.<br />
<br />
==Bearings==<br />
There are two major types of bearings found in [[RepRap]] machines.<br />
* Roller bearings<br />
* Linear bearings<br />
<br />
===Roll bearings=== <br />
: ''main article: [[ ball bearing ]]<br />
<br />
These bearings are usually closed and have their own lubrication, so no additional lubrication is needed.<br />
<br />
===Linear bearings===<br />
Linear Bearings come in open and close package. The closed ones have their own lubrication and no additional lubrication is needed while open ones need additional lubrication.<br />
high-viscosity [[PTFE]] filled oil ([http://www.super-lube.com/ super-lube]) for example shown best results here. Synthetic Gear Oil also shown very good results.<br />
On the other hand, [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,116453,116566#msg-116566 TheGremlin recommends] low viscosity lithium soap based lube when using bushings. High viscosity greases, such as axle grease, can clog up roller bearings and cause them to slide instead of rolling. This will wreak havoc on your expensive precision ground linear rods. He recommends a grease [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number NLGI Grade] 1 or 0.<br />
<br />
==Bushings and ball joints==<br />
Selecting a lubricant for a [[ball joint]] is not as complicated as selecting a lubricant for a [[bushing]], because ball joints tend to be metal on metal. Depending on the type of a bushing ([[PLA]] on Chrome, [[PTFE]] on Chrome, [[ABS]] on Chrome ..) you will need to find a compatible lubricant. This is because some oils do not interact well with some plastics. In most cases when using [[PTFE]] on Chrome no lubrication is needed, but some [[PTFE]] filled oil will help a bit, especially if you use [[PTFE]] inserts for X or Y movement. Multipurpose grease also shown nice results.<br />
Because the smooth rods are in the open air, most oils and greases will accumulate dust. Silicone based dry lube is a potential solution to this problem, according to [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,116453,116566#msg-116566 TheGremlin's post].<br />
<br />
=Lubricants by type=<br />
<br />
==Oils, greases, and dry lubricants==<br />
<br />
Most lubricants can be broadly categorized into three types:<br />
<br />
* Oils - Thin liquids that flow, made up of long polymer chains. They don't squeeze out from under surfaces as easily as other liquids due to their long polymer structure. This means that rubbing surfaces don't get a chance to touch, unless they can apply enough pressure to squeeze out all the oil that separates them. Thicker oils have higher pressure thresholds, but their high viscosity resists motion slightly.<br />
* Greases - Lubricious solid particles suspended in a paste. Although generally thick, greases can range from "apple sauce" to "cheddar cheese" consistency. Thick grease takes much more pressure to make squeeze out, so it can handle much higher loads than RepRap will ever put it through. However, thick grease will bind up your printer. For reprap, we generally want thin grease ([[wikipedia: NLGI consistency number|NLGI]] 1 or below)<br />
* Dry lubricants - Exists as free powder, dispersed in water/alcohol, or as a coating. Because RepRap rods tend not to be covered, dust collects on them. Sticky oil and grease only exacerbate this problem. Dry lubricants solve this, but may require slightly more work, depending on what is added to the powder.<br />
** Free powders don't adhere very well to the surface, and require frequent re-application.<br />
** Powders applied in a suspended medium will adhere slightly better than free powders once the dispersant evaporates.<br />
** AF (anti-friction) coatings are made by adding a binder to form a coating which can be painted on.<br />
** Self-lubrication works by embedding powder in the part, rather than applying it as a coating. As it wears it releases lubrication.<br />
<br />
Oils and greases have been [http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/923/grease-oil widely compared], however dry lubricants are in a class of their own. When too much pressure is applied and an oil is squeezed entirely out from in between two surfaces, the oil will flow back in to fill the dry spot once the part has slid past. This makes oils good for things like cars where varying loads are placed on parts. Greases and solids do not flow like this, but can require higher pressure thresholds to be squeezed out in the first place. Oils can also flow and carry away debris, whereas greases and solids aim to prevent the grinding that generated the debris in the first place. Oils have a high margin of error when selecting a viscosity, so require relatively little knowledge to apply and replace. Greases must be selected based on NLGI consistency (0 or 1 work well for the low loads RepRap requires). Some oils and greases can be corrosive to some plastics or even metals, whereas dry lubricants are less likely to react. Dry lubricants are not sticky and so don't collect dust, but offer less protection from rust when not applied as part of an anti-friction coating.<br />
<br />
Dry lubricants are an enticing option for RepRap. It solves the dust buildup problem elegantly, and we really don't need motor oil or grease intended for power tools/industrial machines. The downside is that dry lubricants don't adhere well, so they may require more frequent re-application. If applied in an Anti-Friction coating, however, they will last much longer. (see the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant#Application_methods Wikipedia page] for details.) If anyone has any experience using graphite or other powdered solid lubricants, please add your knowledge!<br />
<br />
==List==<br />
<br />
* Graphite lube can be as simple as running a soft artist's pencil through your threaded rod. Most pencil cores are made of graphite mixed with a clay binder. While graphite is quite soft, clay is hard and abrasive; the OPPOSITE of the qualities we want for RepRap. (Although, at least in theory, the flat clay particles could reduce friction through the same planar slip mechanism as graphite.) Besides, graphite under 80% pure makes poor lubricant. ([[Wikipedia: Dry_lubricant#Graphite_source]]) Only types 5B and above meet this criteria ([http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100717013933AAmfY1d list of pencil compositions]), so standard pencils (world HB, or US #2) are not suitable at only 68% graphite. In fact, the US system doesn't even include any high-graphite pencils because there is no value below #1. ([[Wikipedia: Pencil#Grading_and_classification]]). Artists suppliers offer solid graphite sticks at times with varying composition. [[Wikipedia: EDM|EDM]] Electrode graphite is usually of a high quality. The hardness varies and there is usually no indication of the composition thought a high purity is to be expected. Grinding these in a ball mill would supply powder. Dry lock lubricants are often fine flake graphite in a small squeeze bottle intended for blowing into a keyhole. Electrode graphite could possibly be used directly to replace graphite stock that is intended for machining bearings. Pistons in air dash pots are sometimes made of graphite if they are used in glass cylinders. The vanes of dry vane pumps are often made from graphite as there is no option of a lubricant. High temperature anti-seize pastes sometimes contain graphite in a grease or other binder. <br />
* Silicone is generally used in grease form, but it is also commonly available dispersed in aerosol sprays, which are sold in hardware stores. Silicone grease that is often used with [[RepRap]] is actually meant to be used with rubber gaskets, O-rings and similar equipment. It is not "bad" and some users report good results with it. There is also silicone grease with [[PTFE]] that is reported to work well. In the case of dry lube sprays, the dispersant evaporates, leaving behind a layer of solid silicone. Silicone based liquid lubricants thicken under shear, keeping the surfaces from touching. This has its limits, however; silicone lubricants compress more and spread out more under pressure than other lubricants. As a result, they have a lower threshold for the pressure they can support. They are sufficient for plastic-to-plastic and metal-to-plastic applications, however metal-to-metal exceeds silicone's lubricating capacity. ([http://www.dowcorning.com/content/discover/discoverchem/si-lubricants.aspx How Silicone Lubricants Work]) Solid silicone does not spread as much as silicone based liquid lubricants. This gives it a moderately higher pressure threshold, allowing it to be used under more severe conditions. (details on the exact physics on [[Wikipedia: Dry_lubricant#Silicone]]) <!-- There was no section on silicone on the Wikipedia "Dry Lubrication" page, so I added it as I did my research. I edited this text down for the purposed of this article. This does not constitute self-plagiarism, because Wikipedia kindly allows contributors to re-use their own work (NOT other people's, of course). Details here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Reference_desk/Archives/Miscellaneous/2008_December_18#Wikipedia_and_plagiarism --><br />
* PTFE lubricants can withstand higher pressures than silicone, allowing it to be used for a metal-to-metal. It is used as a dry lubricant, in grease, or as an oil additive. PTFE is also highly hydrophobic, and so may help prevent rust even in dry lubricant form. It is sold in oil and grease form under the brand "SuperLube", and DuPont sells a "Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant". All of these should not react with ABS or PLA, but only the PTFE filled oil has been tested.<br />
* molybdenum disulfide (moly) is similar in feel to graphite, and can be used as a dry lubricant. Powder is frequently used in grease or as an oil additive, for applications like aircraft engines where failure would be catastrophic. It has been added to plastics like nylon, PTFE, and Vespel to form self-lubricating composites. More info at [[Wikipedia: Molybdenum_disulfide#Lubricant]]<br />
* low viscosity lithium soap grease may be hard to source locally, but works well for linear bearings<br />
* Multipurpose grease is good for use with bushings<br />
* Synthetic Gear Oil<br />
* Light oil reduced the squeaking sound but did not really help with friction and on the bushings it even increased friction (by attracting dust and creating sticky surface on the slider rod). [[CupCakeStrap]] has used light machine oil for the linear rails, which are aluminum rod and brass tube bushings. The oil worked very very well, but over a one-month period the oil formed some black gunk, and much of it leaked down from the rails onto the acrylic X stage, lightly discoloring it. The gunk is easily removed, but doing so dries out the rail.<br />
* WD40 is possibly the worst lubricant, tested on a [[Darwin]] based [[RepRap]] [[rapman]]. It "ate up" the Z threaded rods and produced huge amounts of ugly black gunk that was impossible to remove while not improving Z movement at all.<br />
<br />
===Self-lubricating solids===<br />
<br />
The solid materials called "self-lubricating" are generally one of two types:<ref><br />
[https://www.craftechind.com/top-5-materials-for-plastic-bearings-used-on-metal-surfaces/ "Top 5 materials for plastic bearings used on metal surfaces"].<br />
</ref><ref><br />
[https://www.tstar.com/blog/qa-how-do-self-lubricating-bearings-lubricate "How Do Self-Lubricating Bearings Lubricate?"]<br />
2017.<br />
</ref><br />
* A composite of some hard material mixed with some lubricant filler: such as oil-impregnated sintered metal, lignum vitae with its natural oils, or graphite-filled nylon.<br />
* A solid material that is both hard and low-friction, with no internal filler or external lubricant: such as solid PTFE (Teflon), acetal (Delrin), or Ultrahigh-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE).<br />
<br />
It would be interesting to add graphite or some other powder to ABS or PLA and extrude it with a filastruder. If quality filament could be produced, then it could be used to print gears, ball bearings, bushings, and other high-friction RepRap parts. Since the particles will be partially aligned in the extrusion process, it could be printed in such a way that the particles were already aligned in the direction that the shear force will be generated while the part is in service. Note that [[Conductive ABS]] is made by blending ABS with carbon fibre and carbon black, but NOT graphite. Perhaps graphite-infused (or carbon nanotube?!) filament could be adapted to also be conductive.<br />
<br />
Industry uses composite lubricated plastics in certain applications. PTFE and Molybdenym Disulphide OR Graphite are used in some, one trade name is Vesconite.<br />
<br />
=Summary Table=<br />
<br />
Here's all the lubricants mentioned in this article, summarized in a table:<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable sortable"<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Lubricant type<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Form<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Viscosity<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Known Reactivity<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Friction<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Maintenance<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" | Sources<br />
! style="vertical-align: bottom;" class="unsortable" | Other notes<br />
|-<br />
| PTFE filled oil<br />
| oil/solid<br />
| ?<br />
| compatible with ABS and PLA<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| [http://www.super-lube.com/synthetic-oil-with-ptfe-high-viscosity-ezp-56.html Super Lube]<br />
| Good for threaded rods, bushings, and bearings<br />
|-<br />
| PTFE filled grease<br />
| grease<br />
| ?<br />
| compatible with ABS and PLA<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| [http://www.super-lube.com/synthetic-oil-with-ptfe-high-viscosity-ezp-56.html Super Lube]<br />
| ?<br />
|-<br />
| low viscosity lithium soap<br />
| grease?<br />
| NLGI Grade 1 or 0 is recommended<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| May be hard to source locally<br />
| Good for linear bearings<br />
|-<br />
| Silicone based dry lube<br />
| Aerosolized solid<br />
| N/A<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| Dry, so no dust problems<br />
| ?<br />
| Good for plastic bushings<br />
|-<br />
| Graphite<br />
| solid suspension in isopropanol<br />
| N/A<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| breaks down and becomes a friction agent "[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,34133,34175 after a bunch of years]"<br />
| Brand name "Neolube"<br />
| Can also run a soft artists pencil through threaded rod<br />
|-<br />
| PTFE based dry lube<br />
| solid<br />
| N/A<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| Needs somewhat frequent replacement (a mountain bike chain needs re-lubrication after 3-5 rides)<br />
| Sold in hardware stores. Label may say Teflon instead of PTFE.<br />
| [http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/dry-silicone-spray-lube-okay-709787.html#post8060036 Good for motorcycles and mountain bikes]<br />
|-<br />
| Synthetic Gear Oil<br />
| oil<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| Good for linear bearings<br />
|-<br />
| Multipurpose grease<br />
| grease<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| Good for bushings<br />
|-<br />
| Silicone grease<br />
| grease<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| Meant as a sealant for rubber gaskets, O-rings, etc.<br />
|-<br />
| Light oil<br />
| oil<br />
| ?<br />
| Bad for aluminium and/or brass; discolors acrylic<br />
| Doesn't reduce bushing friction much?<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
|[[CupCakeStrap]] had poor results<br />
|-<br />
| WD-40<br />
| oil<br />
| ?<br />
| Reacts with metal<br />
| Doesn't reduce friction<br />
| ?<br />
| ?<br />
| Designed for eating rust, NOT lubrication<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Reference]]<br />
<br />
* With [https://roadbike.io/ https://roadbike.io/] you can choose and buy the best road bike for you. Visit us!</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=CAD/CAM&diff=189390
CAD/CAM
2021-11-11T21:18:15Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>CAD/CAM (Computer-aided design/Computer-aided manufacturing refers to the use of computers for design, creation, modification, analysis, and development of a model.<br />
<br />
== What is CAD/CAM used for? ==<br />
CAD/CAM is used to design products and program manufacturing processes.<br />
<br />
== How is CAD/CAM used ==<br />
CAD/CAM software is installed in computers where the Engineers use it to design detailed engineering models of 2D and 3D objects. Designers can design various layouts and can take the output in electronic form.<br />
<br />
== Types of CAD/CAM ==<br />
CAD/CAM is generally done in two forms:<br />
* 2-D<br />
* 3-D<br />
<br />
== CAD/CAM Software ==<br />
CAD/CAM software enables Engineers, Architects, and Designers to design and inspect projects using computers.<br />
<br />
== Further reading ==<br />
* [[ Wealth Without Money ]]<br />
* [[ Useful Software Packages ]]<br />
* [[RepRap ]]<br />
* {{tag| Reference }}<br />
* [[ PhilosophyPage ]]<br />
* [[ Open design ]]<br />
* [[ File Formats ]]<br />
* [[ Combinatorics Problem ]]<br />
* [[: Category: Theory & Research ]]<br />
* [[: Category: General motion control ]]<br />
* [[: Category: 3D model manufacturing ]]<br />
* [[ 3D model manufacturing ]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Software]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Hot_End_Design_Theory&diff=189389
Hot End Design Theory
2021-11-11T19:39:08Z
<p>DavidCary: make link clickable</p>
<hr />
<div>The hot end is arguably the most complex aspect of 3d printers as it deals with the tricky business of melting and extruding plastic filament. To understand the design features of hot ends, you must have a basic knowledge of the thermal properties of thermoplastics, specifically the way they behave at their glass transition temperature (Tg). <br />
<br />
The [[hot end]] and the [[Cold End]] together make up the [[extruder]].<br />
<br />
=== Glass Transition Temperature (Tg) ===<br />
At temperatures below Tg, thermoplastics retain their hard, solid consistency (as we see in plastic filament). As the temp rises above the Tg of the thermoplastic, its consistency changes from solid to rubbery and it begins to expand. <br />
<br />
=== Melting Temperature (Tm) ===<br />
If you continue to increase the temperature, the filament will eventually hit its melting temperature (Tm). At the melting temperature, the plastic becomes a liquid. Once the plastic is in the liquid phase, it can be extruded.<br />
<br />
=== The Critical Transition Phase ===<br />
The transition phase between the Tg and Tm temperatures is the most critical point of the extrusion process. Just before hitting the liquid phase, the consistency of the filament is rubbery.<br />
<br />
In this rubbery transition state, the plastic will expand and grip the inside of the hot end and will resist extrusion/retraction and thus increase the likelihood of the hot end jamming. As a result, the hot end developer makes an effort to mitigate this problem by reducing the area that the rubbery plastic can grip and cause jams (by shortening the transition zone), and by reducing the friction between the rubbery plastic and the interior walls of the hot end (by polishing the internal pathway within the hot end). This rubbery filament problem is more apparent when extruding PLA which has a very low Tg (about 60&nbsp;&deg;C).<br />
<br />
== RESEARCH ==<br />
<br />
=== Temperature vs extrusion speed ===<br />
<br />
Willy has done a number of interesting measurement series: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?252,217620 . He adjusted his extruder to loose steps at some specific torque, then he tested how fast he could extrude at different temperatures. The result is, the hotter the heater is, the faster one can extrude (not surprising) and also, that this relation is pretty much linear (a bit unexpected) over the entire 170&nbsp;&deg;C to 260&nbsp;&deg;C range tested on a piece of PLA.<br />
<br />
To sum up this work in one equation:<br />
<br />
<!-- See talk page for discussion of these 2 versions of this formula --><br />
<br />
<math>V_{max} = k(T_{HotEnd}-T_{softening})</math><br />
<br />
V<sub>max</sub> = k (T<sub>HotEnd</sub> - T<sub>softening</sub>)<br />
<br />
Where<br />
* V<sub>max</sub> is the maximum velocity achievable by a given extruder. (aka, nozzle pressure for the max torque the extruder motor can handle)<br />
* T<sub>HotEnd</sub> is the temperature of the hot end. Note that the filament temperature is somewhat lower than this, especially in the center.<br />
* T<sub>softening</sub> is the softening temperature of the filament. This is the lowest temperature at which it is possible to extrude; around 153&nbsp;&deg;C for PLA. This should be approximately equal to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vicat_softening_point Vicat softening point].<br />
* k is some empirically determined constant. It is a property of the extruder. In theory, k should scale with both nozzle area (aka, Pi*R^2) and the torque the motor can produce. More efficient hot ends should also contribute to a higher k, since the filament temperature should be closer to T<sub>HotEnd</sub>.<br />
<br />
It would be interesting to conduct these sorts of tests for different nozzle diameters and filament sizes. Thinner filament should heat more quickly, allowing it to be extruded more rapidly. Smaller nozzle apertures would create higher back pressure, limiting extrusion speed.<br />
<br />
<br />
One researcher speculates that:<br />
Perhaps the ABS in this experiment isn't really getting heated up all the way to 260&nbsp;&deg;C.<br />
Perhaps the thermistor is measuring 260&nbsp;&deg;C at one point, but the rapid injection of cold ABS plastic is keeping the actual temperature of the ABS plastic at the tip at some lower temperature, creating a strong temperature gradient. (Assuming a constant thermal resistance, the amount of heat energy per second flowing down that temperature gradient is proportional to the difference in temperatures).<br />
<br />
=== ideal hot end ===<br />
<br />
What *should* happen in the extruder, independent of how this is mechanically implemented?<br />
<br />
==== shape ====<br />
Is there an optimum shape inside the nozzle to transition from the input feedstock to the output filament?<br />
In other words:<br />
Is it better to have a blunt, sharp transition,<br />
or is it better to have a very gradual taper<br />
from the 3 mm or 1.75 mm feedstock as it comes from [[Printing Material Suppliers]],<br />
to the output [[filament]] exiting a hole typically 0.5 mm diameter?<br />
<br />
==== thermal conductivity ====<br />
What [[Thermal Conductivity]] does the hot end really need to have?<br />
Researchers initially thought that the hot end<br />
needed to have a high thermal conductivity --<br />
so the first RepRap, [[Darwin]], used lots of<br />
109&nbsp;W/(m*K) brass in the hot end.<br />
More recent researchers seem to think lower thermal conductivity<br />
would be better --<br />
16&nbsp;W/(m*K) stainless steel in the [[Strong Nozzle]],<br />
1&nbsp;W/(m*K) [[Glass Nozzles]],<br />
etc.<br />
<br />
== Quick-change ==<br />
<br />
When testing different hot end designs, it's useful to be able to quickly swap them in and out to make a fair test.<br />
<br />
The [[: category: extruders#mount to rest of machine]] mentions a few interface standards for quickly swapping the entire extruder in and out.<br />
<br />
[FIXME:<br />
Is there a RepRap page about nozzle quick-change standards such as the Olsson Block by Anders Olsson,<br />
[https://ultimaker.com/learn/the-olsson-block-a-community-invention-by-anders-olsson "The Olsson Block - a community invention by Anders Olsson"]<br />
mentioned in<br />
[https://www.3dsourced.com/3d-printers/open-source-3d-printer/ "Open Source 3D Printers 2021 (With Links To Designs)"]<br />
?]<br />
<br />
== Multi-input extruders ==<br />
: ''main article: [[adding more extruders]]''<br />
<br />
Most 3d printers have only a single input for raw material.<br />
What extra design considerations are relevant to multi-input 3d printer?<br />
<br />
What extra design considerations are relevant to the various kinds of multi-input systems:<br />
* single material type (with more-or-less the same melting and transition temperatures) in multiple colors: [[multicolor-extruder]]; [[RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/RepRap Media Timeline]]; [[:Category: Diamond Hotend]]; [[Repetier Color Mixing]]; etc.<br />
<br />
* multiple material types (with different transition and melting temperatures): [[RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Software/Parts/Dual Extruder]]; etc.<br />
** support material (with different transition and melting temperatures from the desired material): [[Support Extruder]]; [[HIPS]]; [[Limonene]]; etc.<br />
** different materials (with different transition and melting temperatures) that all end up in the final part: so "something like swimming goggles (lens, rubber, and hard plastic) can be printed without stopping the print." -- [[RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/RepRap Media Timeline]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Further reading ==<br />
<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?70,88930 RepRap forums: "What would be the ideal (theoretical) hotend?"]''<br />
<br />
* [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.ie/2009/03/rheology.html nophead: "HydraRaptor: Rheology"]<br />
<br />
* [[Hot End Comparison]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Hot End]]<br />
<br />
[[category: reference]]<br />
[[category: principles]]<br />
[[category: Theory & Research]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Hot End]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Materials/Appropriate_Machines&diff=189388
Materials/Appropriate Machines
2021-11-09T23:33:24Z
<p>DavidCary: link to other articles that discuss liquid resin 3D printing</p>
<hr />
<div>{{merge from | Discussion of Advantages and Disadvantages of different Tool head processes.}}<br />
<br />
Different processes are optimized for different materials. A carpenter, a machinist, and a bronze sculptor have different tooling and workflows.<br />
<br />
Also, we need to distinguish between 2D, 2D+1, and 3D form factors for the end object.<br />
<br />
* flat sheets of wood into more-or-less 2D [[FlatPack]] parts: rotary tool, laser, hand tools<br />
* long chunks of lumber into [[grid beam]]: drill press<br />
* scrap wood, dead trees, etc. into lumber: <br />
* Metal: rotary tool, plasma, [[ElectrochemicalPrintedCircuitBoardHead | electro-chemical etching]], non-ferrous metal casting<br />
* PCB: rotary tool, innumerable -- [[Automated Circuitry Making]] lists a few techniques<br />
** Soldering parts onto a PCB is much easier with a [[HotplateReflowTechnique]] -- rather than with any kind of toolhead-mounted soldering iron.<br />
* Plastic: reprap, rotary tool, laser, <br />
** [[Shape Deposition Manufacturing]] is much easier if you have 2 toolheads attached to a single machine so you can quickly alternate back and forth between them -- a milling head and a plastic extruder -- rather than 2 separate machines, a mill and a plastic extruder.<br />
* flat sheets of acrylic: [[Laser Cutter]]<br />
* Bronze, aluminum, silver, and similar metals: rotary tool (maybe), lost wax casting, [[High Temperature Metal Casting]]<br />
* [[Epoxy-Granite]]: cold casting<br />
* Glass: lost wax casting<br />
* Pewter: low temperature [[Casting]]<br />
* Wax/Plastic: RepRap, rotary tool, hand tools, casting.<br />
* liquid photopolymer can be converted into solid plastic using [http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Special%3ASearch&search=DLP DLP] or laser<br />
** [[Open hardware fast high resolution LASER]]<br />
** [[ResinCat 3D]]<br />
** [[Coating of liquids in 3D printing]]<br />
** [[Electric3DPrinter]]<br />
** [[Lemon Curry]]<br />
** [[Petri]]<br />
** [[Eraikizpi]]<br />
** [[Q3d]]<br />
* thin sheets of paper, aluminum foil or other metal foil, plastic film, sliced-up recycled soda containers, etc. can be converted to arbitrary 3D shapes using laminated object manufacturing (LOM) ... [[Compliant Linear Motion Mechanism 1]] and [[FlatPack]] mention such lamination ... [http://forums.reprap.org/search.php?0,search=laminated,author=,page=1,match_type=ALL,match_dates=0,match_forum=ALL,match_threads=0 other discussion of lamination on the RepRap forums] ... <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[MaterialsScience]] discusses the various materials people have printed from a RepRap, or at least tried to print.<br />
[[Frame material]] discusses the various materials people have considered using to build a RepStrap.<br />
<br />
[[category:reference]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=BrickRap&diff=189387
BrickRap
2021-11-09T02:27:26Z
<p>DavidCary: restore tags accidentally (?) deleted; linkify to article with more information about modular system mentioned.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|image = BrickRap28122014klein.JPG<br />
|name = BrickRap<br />
|status = Experimental<br />
|description = A back to the roots RepRap approach <br />
|license = GPL ?<br />
|author = Ediweber<br />
|reprap = BrickRap<br />
|categories = {{tag|BrickRap}}<br />
{{tag|Cartesian-Z-head}}, {{tag|Lego}}<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== BREAKING-NEWS: BrickRapBuildManual including stl-files and BOM ==<br />
<br />
03-05-2015: I start releasing all stuff in order to encourage others to build a BrickRap and solve open issues!<br />
<br />
Check the all-new [[BrickRapBuildManual]] and build your own Ultra-low-vitamin-count-BrickRap for less than 140€ !!!<br />
<br />
Have fun!!!<br />
<br />
<br />
== Project Description ==<br />
<br />
This is my entry for the Gada Prize.<br />
<br />
A RepRap which is "back to the roots", in other words: Focus is not on printing speed or fancy features but on the capability to reproduce itself.<br />
<br />
This shall be achieved by using "RepBricks" which are easily stacked together like the famous bricks for children. Compatibility to commercial brick systems will even allow to build a BrickStrap using your childrens bricks.<br />
<br />
Inspiration for this Project Comes from the following projects:<br />
[[Lego RepStrap]]<br />
[[MendeLego]] [http://www.instructables.com/id/LEGO-bot-3d-printer/ LEGObot 3D Printer by matstermind]<br />
and [[LegoStrap]](which is quite empty...)<br />
<br />
However I decided to use double sized bricks to lower the part count and increase ease of assembly.<br />
NOTE: Changed to [[frame material#Bitbeam | BitBeam-like]] Bricks due to problems with Duplo-like bricks<br />
<br />
== Development Goals: ==<br />
<br />
<br />
- Extremely low cost<br />
<br />
- Ultra-low vitamin count<br />
<br />
- Brick based construction (modular concept)<br />
<br />
- Compatibility of the bricks to commercial brick systems<br />
<br />
- Easy to build<br />
<br />
- Mother-Child principle:<br />
<br />
- BrickRap children have small printing area (just enough to print parts for growing)<br />
<br />
- Capability to grow in size by printing "growth parts"<br />
<br />
- Rack and pinion drivetrain will make growing easier<br />
<br />
- Herringbone gears will drive the Rack and thereby self-center the drivetrain (likely to be abandoned, printing herringbone is quite unstable on my printer)<br />
<br />
== Why use RepBricks? ==<br />
While all the new developments are really great projects, they tend to be more and more professional. Costly vitamins are required for most of them. In my personal opinion the idea of a self replicating machine is not the focus of those high sophisticated machines. By using only a limited set of easily stackable "RepBricks" one could use parts from older designs for new machines (Maybe not only RepRaps). Furthermore the compatibility to commercial bricks can lower the entry barrier for beginners, as a lot of people already own enough bricks to at least build the structural parts of BrickRap.<br />
<br />
One limiting factor in the RepRap growth function is the manual assembly. Using the Brick principle it is already possible to build assembly devices which could be used in the replication. [http://3druck.com/drucker-und-produkte/lego-3d-drucker-29484/ Lego 3D-Drucker (german)]<br />
<br />
RepBricks (old version) deviate from classic Duplo-Bricks in a way that their shape is optimized for printing. This shall be achieved by replacing the "inner nibbles" by a quadratic grid of straight walls which are rotated 45° related to the outer brick walls. <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=4><br />
File:RepBrickOldBottom1.JPG| Bottom style 1<br />
File:RepBrickOldBottom2.JPG| Bottom style 2<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
RepBricks in their actual specification are based on BitBeam, with some modifications to work with pin connectors and to be printed more easily.<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=4><br />
File:Repbrickset_1.JPG| Set of RepBricks<br />
File:RepBrickConnector.JPG| Set of connectors<br />
File:Dirchanger_v2.JPG| Direction changer<br />
File:RepBrickSlideBearingV1.JPG| RepBrick slide bushing<br />
File:RepBrick_Holder_for_28BYJ48_motor2.JPG | RepBrick stepper motor holder<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
One more advantage which I recognized during the ongoing development process is that it is very easy to change the printer configuration when using RepBricks. This facilitates the implementation of new ideas.<br />
<br />
== Mother+Child principle ==<br />
The Mother in this context is a full size BrickRap with a printing area sufficiently big to print all used RepBricks. The child however is the smallest possible BrickRap, with a print area as small as one standard (to be defined) "GrowthBrick". Using this principle a BabyBrickRap can produce the parts required for its growth on its own. In the meanwhile the MotherRap can produce more babies or help the BabyBrickRap to grow.<br />
<br />
Preliminary BabyBrickRap specifications:<br />
<br />
- Print area: 2x2 nibble brick<br />
<br />
- Print height: half standard brick height (with nibbles or herringbone teeth)<br />
<br />
== Cost Reduction ==<br />
One of the most important design goals for BrickRap is cost reduction. One example to achieve this is the rack and pinion carriage system for the printing plate. However with my current design there is a major drawback as the moving mass is increased by the fact that both (X and Y) motors are moving as the printing surface does. To overcome this I tried to use low weight cheap stepper motors. 28BJY-48 with a ULN2003 "driver". Connection to Ramps 1.4 was carried out using the free Pins at AUX4 and I managed to make the motor move using some modification of Repetier Firmware. However I am stuck there with some doubts how to redirect the signals from the dir/step protocol used with pollulu to the direct drive of the motor. As I completely fail in coding firmware this development is likely to be abandoned and I will go back to using Pollulu.<br />
<br />
== Stepper motor selection ==<br />
The decision which type of stepper motor to use is quite hard. Using NEMA 17 would allow fast printer moves, but add a lot of weight. I decided to use cheap 28BJY-48 which are internally geared down, giving a high torque but very low rpm. As I do not intend to build a fast printer I hope that this will be sufficient for my purpose. Furthermore the power consumption should be much lower than with the big motors. Another positive side effect is the reduced printer noise. While my WolfStrap is much too loud, first tests with the 28BJY-48 motors are promising in that regard. However I am suffering from loosing steps. Up to now the motor is not controlled correctly, when I get a second Ramps board I will do more testing (up to now I always have to disconnect my WolfStrap motors because I am using that Ramps controller for testing).<br />
<br />
== Nozzle size selection ==<br />
A nozzle size of 0.35 mm is used for printing my RepBricks. I print two perimeters and zero infill, and most parts a sufficiently strong. I am planning to use a bigger nozzle in the BrickRap as this would lead to less layers and less printing time for a given part. I recently ordered a 0.55 mm nozzle and will do some testing when it arrives, I am not sure if I can get down to 1 perimeter printing with that nozzle, but this would be great, because I then could greatly reduce printing time. <br />
<br />
== Ultra-low vitamin count ==<br />
This is selected as major development goal, because I spent a lot of time ordering the vitamins for my WolfStrap-build. Burning two pollulus and waiting for new ones is also no nice experience.<br />
<br />
Last but not least: Vitamin supply is costly and therefore counteracts cost reduction.<br />
<br />
How to achieve this goal:<br />
- All structural parts are basic RepBricks<br />
- Drivetrain for X and Y movement is made of brick compatible Racks and Gears that fit directly to the Motor shaft<br />
- Z-Axis movement (Option 1): Printable screw-gear-system<br />
- Z-Axis movement (Option 2): Printable block and tackle System (fishing line as vitamin)<br />
<br />
- Alternative electronics??? Cheap stepper motors?<br />
<br />
Preliminary vitamin needs:<br />
stepper motors, electronics, endstops, wiring, HotEnd, Extruder-Hardware, Fan, (fishing line), screws and nuts for fixation of gears<br />
<br />
== Development Status: ==<br />
<br />
<br />
a Picture of a model made of commercial bricks will follow soon.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This is the first model of BrickRap: The frame is quite stable this way. The extruder shall fit into the hole on the upside and be moveable only in Z-direction (right now I have one "Wades Extruder" which nearly fits into the model, however work has to be done to reduce its size). Therefore the printing table has to have 2 degrees of freedom. The racks are indicated by the pink bricks. The motor mounts are indicated by the orange bricks. The motors will have the herringbone gears directly on their shafts. (I hope printing resolution will anyway be not too bad. Something in the 0.5 mm range would be fine for my purposes)<br />
<br />
For the rack and pinion drive I imagine something like [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21206 Rack and Pinion for X-Axis by theodleif]<br />
<br />
<br />
ToDo [06-09-2013]<br />
- Wait for the last missing Pollulu for my WolfStrap to finally start printing.<br />
<br />
- Create .stl for rack and pinion System which can directly be stacked on Standard double size brick.<br />
<br />
- Create .stl for print optimized Brick (round Pins in the inside middle will be replaced by straight crossing lines)<br />
<br />
<br />
[14-10-2013] MAYOR PROJECT CHANGE:<br />
WolfStrap is running. <br />
Experimenting with Duplo-like bricks showed some problems. Stability of the links is highly depending on printer settings. Furthermore, printing time is too high with such big bricks. Changing the type of bricks seems to be necessary. Some search led me to GridBeam on Thingiverse which is highly compatible to Lego-Technic bricks. <br />
Printing those is faster and gives more consistent results. I therefore decided to change the Brick Type to GridBeam-like bricks. Some minor changes allowed for faster printing and increased compatibility to commercial connectors. <br />
''(Is BitBeam similar to [[gridbeam]] ?)''<br />
<br />
An experimental frame was succesfully built using mainly printed parts.<br />
<br />
I hope to upload some photos soon. I have to increase my efforts on documentation ;-) and will do so, when some of my other projects allow me to do so.<br />
<br />
[18-10-2013]<br />
<br />
I finally managed to take some pictures:<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:BrickRapXCarriageV1.JPG]]<br />
[[File:BrickRapXCarriageV1a.JPG]]<br />
<br />
This is the first version of BrickRap's X-Axis carriage. I used heavy paper as a platform for trials. Driving this by wire/string works quite OK, but sidewards stability is very low. Also the required vitamins are too much (some screws, nuts, ball bearings). I quit this design.<br />
<br />
<br />
[20-10-2013]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:BrickRapXCarriageV2.JPG]]<br />
<br />
V2 is the first working X-Axis carriage. Rack and gear are printed. The gear directly fits on the stepper motor shaft, however I am planning to include fixation. Running the 28BJY-48 stepper motor on the pollulu is quite slow. Maybe I have to increase gear size to increase printing speed.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:28BJY48rewiring.JPG]]<br />
<br />
I had some problems getting the stepper motors running. Rewiring the plug solved the problem. Now I drive the stepper using the Ramps/Pollulu combination. Here are the cable colors: plug-motor: yel-yel; blu-pin; or-blu; pin-or. The red cable is not used. Firmware settings for printer speed have to be VERY low. Fast changes of direction lead to losses of steps. Low acceleration seems to solve this, however I am not yet confident with these motors.<br />
<br />
<br />
[22-10-2013]<br />
<br />
[[File:BrickRapXYCarriageWire.jpg]]<br />
<br />
This is the complete XY-carriage. Only one motor installed so far. The bed slides on tie wire (gardening wire), but the second axis movement is not as good as the top axis movement. I will have to remove the wire and replace it by something more rigid. Vitamins used: some (black) Lego Technic Pins, tie wire, 2 screws to fix the motor and the motor itself. The wire will hopefully be replaced soon.<br />
<br />
[23-10-2013]<br />
<br />
[[File:BrickRapXYCarriagePrintedBearingV1_small.JPG]]<br />
<br />
The wire is now replaced by printed slide bearings. Works quite OK, still a little bit of sidewards wobbling. I will have to work on the sliders. I also increased the free space for the gear in order to replace it with a bigger one.<br />
<br />
[27-10-2013]<br />
Running out of filament. Last prints for this month: A holder for the 28BYJ48 stepper motor compatible to the other RepBricks.<br />
<br />
[[File:RepBrick_Holder_for_28BYJ48.JPG]]<br />
[[File:RepBrick_Holder_for_28BYJ48_motor2.JPG]]<br />
[[File:RepBrick_holder_for_28BYJ48_stepper_motor_with_motor.JPG]]<br />
<br />
[10-11-2013]<br />
Most likely there will be very few development here for the next 2 months.<br />
<br />
[15-11-2013]<br />
Production of new bricks is halted due to a broken computer. However I keep thinking about this project. Until now there seems to be little effort on reprap.org to include the production of lactic acid into the project. In order to come closer to the goal of a self-replicating machine, it will however be necessary to include that process. My idea is to use some of my RepBricks to build a bioreactor for the fermentation of lactic acid. Until now, the rough plan is as follows: Print some peristaltic pumps (maybe I'll use a Shkolnikow pump [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13032Shkolnikov] in combination with an eccentric disc or a gear with low teeth count) of course all of that modded to fit to the RepBrick system ;-). The discs or gears can be driven by the stepper motor type used for BrickRap. A cheap pH-sensor would be connected to the basic Arduino board. Furthermore a heating element could be controlled with Ramps-like electronics as it is done with the heating bed and extruder hot end. Stirring could be carried out by magnetic stirring also by a (stepper) motor controlled via Ramps-like electronics. Using the peristaltic pumps in combination with the pH-sensor would already allow for pH-stat fermentation control. Fed-batch or continuous operation of the bioreactor would be possible by using a (simple) liquid-level detection system and the use of sterile filters. In situ removal of lactic acid would arise the need for membranes (which are not likely to be non-vitamin for at least some more years ;-) or could be achieved by reactive extraction (which in my opinion is easier to realize at home with lower vitamin count - however I will have to double check that) The polymerization step is until now out of scope for me (I'll work on that, I promise ;-). Luckily lactic acid bacteria are sold in nearly every supermarket worldwide (I hope to find a homofermentative strain ;-) Sorry for that bunch of smilies, I just think it would be funny if lots of people have their very own bioreactor for much less than 300€/$ (just a rough estimate...). With maximum spent cell recycling one could produce lactic acid from sugar. Maybe I will work on an automated RepBrick-based greenhouse for sugar beets. Maybe then one more RepBrickReactor could be used for bioethanol production and supply the whole bunch of self-made stuff with bioenergy. I'll stop that post now before it runs out of control.<br />
<br />
[22-07-2014] 2 months turned into a lot more. Lots of other - more important - stuff to do right now. Sorry for that. Hope to find some time when all three kids are sleeping at the same time ;-)<br />
<br />
[28-12-2014] Finally I had some time to continue to work on BrickRap - See the results below:<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:BrickRap28122014klein.JPG]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Although the main goal of BrickRap is to reach ultra-low-vitamin-count, I decided to use some more vitamin (1m of threaded rod M5) as structural and functional part of BrickRap. 4 gears hold 4 nuts on the 4 pieces of threaded rod and are driven by a fully printed chain in order to carry out the z-axis movement of the (imaginary) extruder. I hope to buy another extruder soon, to make that BrickRap finally work.</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Printing_materials&diff=189386
Printing materials
2021-11-09T02:11:39Z
<p>DavidCary: make link clickable</p>
<hr />
<div>{{languages|Printing materials}}<br />
<br />
= Printing Materials =<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
In this section we will discuss a number of materials that can be used with RepRap and the ways to use them, as well as the core information needed for their successful application.<br />
Many of these materials will fall under the Polymer class (loosely called plastics).<br />
In time we will also discuss clays, plasters, cements, gels, and any other materials we think can be of use.<br />
<br />
== Polymers ==<br />
<br />
=== Thermoplastic ===<br />
: ''Main page: [[:Category:Thermoplastic]]''<br />
<br />
The term thermoplastics applies to polymers that reversibly change phase with temperature.<br />
While keeping within a boundary of temperatures, these phase changes can be done safely and the material returns to it's original solid state after cooling, without any alteration in it's original properties.<br />
<br />
'''See also [[WorkingWithThermoplastic]].'''<br />
<br />
==== Thermoplastics Data Sheets and where to get them ====<br />
<br />
These are the various suppliers we've found. YMMV.<br />
<br />
===== [[Polymorph|Polymorph]] (Polycaprolactone) =====<br />
A useful plastic with a very low melting point that is hand-workable. You can use it to fashion your own parts without a machine, Its a tad bit expensive, but very handy. Check out the link above for suppliers.<br />
<br />
===== [[HDPE|HDPE]] (High Density PolyEthylene) =====<br />
This is very common engineering plastic. It is used in a wide variety of consumer goods. It's strong, durable, and has a decent melting point. It's also very cheap. Unfortunately it has, compared to FDM-friendlier plastics, a very high shrinkage factor when solidifying, so there isn't much of a chance of it ending up being the main working material of choice for RepRap.<br />
<br />
===== [[ABS|ABS]] (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) =====<br />
ABS is a general purpose, strong, and very resistant type of plastic. It is a bit more expensive than HDPE, but it also is a bit higher quality material than HDPE.<br />
<br />
===== [[PLA|PLA]] (Polylactic Acid) =====<br />
Polylactic acid is a cheap, biodegradable polymer, that is produced from [[lactic acid]], which can be obtained from the maceration of starch and sugars in biotanks. Typically it is produced from Genetically Modified Corn, grown in the United States, then processed as noted.<br />
<br />
===== [[PP|PP]] (Polypropylene) =====<br />
[http://www.abbeon1.com/newFiles/winfo3.html Abbeon Cal] $10 / lb<br />
<br />
===== Informations about plastics =====<br />
http://www.ides.com/info/generics<br />
(from http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,70471)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Paste ===<br />
: ''Main: {{tag|Paste}}''<br />
: [[:Category:Paste Extruders]]<br />
<br />
In physics, a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/paste_(rheology) paste] is a substance that behaves as a solid until a sufficiently large load or stress is applied, at which point it flows like a fluid.<br />
<br />
A paste extruder, such as as [[Syringe Based Extruder]], could be adapted to [[Paste Extrusion]] a large number of materials, including [[Chocolate Extrusion]], [[Frostruder]], clay [[Ceramic Extrusion]], etc.<br />
<br />
=== Duroplastics ===<br />
Duroplastic polymers are plastics that once hardened cannot reversibly change phase (molten) through heat. Solvents may dilute some of them (Acrylics, Polyesters in their lower molecular weight form) and by evaporation of the solvent they will harden again. This application, very common in solvent based varnishes and paints, is nevertheless not practical for RepRap, as the volatile solvents take a long time to evaporate and in large section or layer thickness, this evaporation cannot be regulated and controlled so as to produce uniform deposition layers (bubbles, hardening imperfections).<br />
<br />
''Is "duroplastic polymer" a synonym for "[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/thermosetting_polymer thermosetting polymer]" ?''<br />
<br />
The most common way to obtain Duroplastics is by polymerizing their monomer and oligomer blends, also called '''Resins''', through chain reactions, whether initiated by catalysts and radicals that spring from reaction with moisture, pH, oxygen, radiation or heat (thermosetting) or auto-initiation with another identical monomer or a suitable copolymer. Polymerization can be initiated by a simple change in pH, by adding an acidic or basic reactant (Furan resins, phenol-formaldehide (Resol), urea-formaldehide...)<br />
<br />
For rapid prototype deposition, Duroplastic resins have to fulfill a number of conditions:<br />
<br />
1) They have to have a long work time, meaning that they have to remain fluid, preferably without any changes in viscosity and state for the whole time frame of the deposition session. Failing to do so would mean that the depositing tool would get clogged as well as introducing deposition artifacts and distortions due to variations in flow rates.<br />
<br />
2) They have to have the correct viscosity and plasticity, so that after deposition they don't sag too much or change shape noticeably. Additionally, at no moment during the hardening process should the volume of the polymer change severely. <br />
<br />
3) After deposition they have to have suitable adhesive properties so that threads glue together with the best possible bond strength.<br />
<br />
4) Once deposited, there has to exist a mechanism by which the polymer will set and harden, if possible, on command. The curing has to occur through the whole section of the deposited material, not just on the surface of the thread or layer. This point will be discussed under the section '''Catalysts and Initiators'''<br />
<br />
These conditions are less restrictive if you want to use these polymers as casting resins to fill molds (built by the deposition technique).<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Spontaneous polymerization resin blends ====<br />
This section will describe resins that need to be stored in two separated components for them to remain fluid for long periods of time. The most common blends of this class, generally called '''Dual Component Resins''' have to be mixed in a given proportion just before usage and start the polymerization chain reaction as soon as the two parts are homogeneously mixed.<br />
Spontaneously polymerizing monomers will not be addressed in their pure state, due to their uncontrollable and often dangerous polymerization properties. Additives and fillers can tame these processes so as to make them useful in some cases. <br />
<br />
Read more on [[spontaneous polymerization resin blends]]<br />
<br />
==== Triggered polymerization resin blends ====<br />
In this section we will discuss resin blends that can be mixed in their final composition and still be kept unchanged for long periods of time. They will only start polymerizing after having been given the right trigger effect (see '''Catalysts and Initiators''')<br />
<br />
[[TriggeredPolymerizationResinBlends|Read more on triggered polymerization resin blends]]<br />
<br />
==== Other Additives, Monomers, Fillers ====<br />
Here you will find a number of filler materials: [[FillerMaterials|Go to Fillers section]]<br />
<br />
A good website to find all types of monomers and oligomers with their descriptions and properties can be found at this very complete site: <br />
<br />
[http://www.sartomereurope.com/prodline.asp?plid=2 Oligomers at Sartomer.com]<br />
<br />
[http://www.sartomereurope.com/prodline.asp?plid=1 Monomers at Sartomer.com]<br />
<br />
or at<br />
<br />
[http://www.basf.com/rawmaterials/bcrawlaromer.html BASF Resins]<br />
<br />
For Organic products I have found some sites that provide chemical products all over the globe.<br />
Go to their web and search for the systematic name or name parts of the product. If you cave a CAS number (unique number for a given product) these sites will deliver a very accurate search result list. All of these sites require you to register to get prices and place orders:<br />
<br />
[http://www.chemexper.com/ Chemexper web, will give you a list of companies that sell the searched compound]<br />
<br />
[http://www.acros.com/ ACROS Organics]<br />
<br />
'''Concrete''' <br />
<br />
If the entry is wrong here, move it to a better place.<br />
<br />
The video is in german language. Maybe there are other sources.<br />
<br />
Pricing for a house in the video 5000 US$<br />
<br />
[http://www.faz.net/-gqe-7osmx Used for building houses]<br />
<br />
== Catalysts and Initiators ==<br />
There are several chemical types of catalysts that are of use to RepRap. All of them, independently of their chemical type, fall into two categories of importance to RepRap and those will be discussed below:<br />
<br />
=== Catalysts for dual-component mixes ===<br />
[[SpontaneousPolymerizationResinBlends|Spontaneously catalyzed systems]] start the polymerization reaction as soon as the catalyst comes in contact with the monomer. They do not need any further external input to fulfill their initiator role, be it heat, moisture, radiation (UV, visible, IR...).<br />
<br />
=== Catalysts for single-component mixes ===<br />
[[TriggeredPolymerizationResinBlends]] need a triggering effect (a [[TriggeredCatalysts]]) to start their initiator role. This is an obvious advantage as they can be blended in the monomer mix and be kept on the shelve for significant amounts of time (weeks, months...). They will not clog any tubings, pumps or dispensers. Also, they offer one more level of control, being able to decide when and where to apply the trigger effect and sometimes also when to stop the chain reaction. These triggered initiators are usually more complex as the first category, specially if what you are looking for is a rapid reaction producing fast setting times through thick sections of material. One example of these systems are the acrylic based tooth fillings the dentists use, that are triggered by UV light. <br />
Many varnishes are also UV triggered but they have a much longer setting time and require hour-long exposures to achieve definitive hardening.<br />
<br />
== '''Misc''' ==<br />
<br />
[[Cheese]] <br><br />
[[Chocolate_Extrusion]] <br><br />
[[Pancakebot]] <br><br />
See [[:Category:Food]] <br><br />
See ''{{tag|Paste}}'' <br><br />
See [[:Category:Edible Paste Extruders]] <br><br />
See [[:Category:Consumables]] <br><br />
<br> <br><br />
[[Gutta-Percha]] from tropical trees, a natural [[rubber]] [[latex]] like material<br />
<br> <br><br />
[[Wheat paste]] <br><br />
[[Glue]]<br />
<br> <br> <br />
In short, whatever [[thermoplastic]] type material you can extrude from a nozzle <br><br />
See {{tag|thermoplastic}} <br><br />
<br />
= Glossary of Terms and Definitions =<br />
Here you will find a short and basic explanation of terms used in all the sections above.<br />
If some term used above seems unclear to you, please post a message in the forum and I will see to add the term to this glossary.<br />
<br />
[[Glossary|Go to Glossary]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Consumables| ]]<br />
[[Category:Thermoplastic| ]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Glossary&diff=189385
Glossary
2021-11-09T02:10:22Z
<p>DavidCary: add term mentioned on the Coating of liquids in 3D printing page.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{languages|Glossary}}<br />
<br />
This is a list of common terms and abbreviations used in the RepRap community.<br />
__NOTOC__<br />
<br />
===[[ABS]]=== <br />
Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene is a [[thermoplastic]] used as a 3D printer material.<br />
Often ABS is used as a short form, actually referring to filament made of ABS: 'Do you use ABS in your Mendel?'<br />
Be careful that sometimes filament sold as ABS is in fact mixed with other thermoplastic, thus altering its characteristics.<br />
The melting temperature is 220-230°C, but can be different if the manufacturer has mixed this with other thermoplastics.<br />
ABS is soluble in acetone and can be use to smooth the surface of the print-out.<br />
<br />
===Bed===<br />
The build plate of the 3D printer on which parts are actually made. Typical materials are aluminium or glass.<br />
<br />
===[[Belt]]===<br />
Toothed gear belt, usually fiber-reinforced to prevent stretching (ex: GT2). Used to transfer movement from the motors to other parts of a machine along with pulleys.<br />
<br />
===[[Biopolymer]]===<br />
Biopolymer has different meanings and is classified by Enders.<br />
Biopolymer can be made out of renewable, natural sources or petrol based,<br />
Biopolymer can be the polymers out of natural monomers (ex. PLA, bioFila) or<br />
Biopolymer can standard polymers but out of a natural source (ex. Polyamid. out or natural oils).<br />
<br />
===[[BOM]]===<br />
Bill of materials. A list of parts. There are BOMs for the whole Mendel and for individual components.<br />
<br />
Also said to be "Book of Materials" in some contexts.<br />
<br />
===[[PCB]]===<br />
A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printed_circuit_board PCB], or printed circuit board, is the board commonly used to support and connect electronic components, in which there are copper conductors, etched into a non-conductive material, as designed in a PCB CAD program.<br />
===[[CAD/CAM]]===<br />
Computer Aided Design / Computer Aided Manufacturing. The use of 3D modelling software to aid the design testing and manufacture of parts.<br />
<br />
===[[CAE]]===<br />
Computer Aided Engineering.<br />
<br />
===[[CNC]]===<br />
Computer Numerical Control.<br />
<br />
===[[Mendel_X-axis|Carriage]]===<br />
The moving middle assembly on the x-axis of a RepRap which holds the extruder. Often referred to as: ''x-carriage''.<br />
<br />
===Catalyst===<br />
A catalyst is a substance that speeds up a chemical reaction without being consumed itself in the reaction. A substance that alters (usually increases) the rate at which a reaction occurs.<br />
<br />
===Copolymers===<br />
Copolymers are additives that are included in the polymer blends with the intention to add certain properties to the main polymer.<br />
<br />
All polymers have principal properties that are desired, but bring others that are not. A good example is Styrene, which is clear, has great accuracy when molded into a shape but is very brittle and ages poorly in sunlight. In certain commercial varnishes Butadyene can be added to give it some flexibility and UV protectors to make it more durable. The difference between copolymers and fillers is that the first ones participate in the chemical chain reaction and are bonded to the main monomer.<br />
<br />
===Curing===<br />
See: [[#Hardening|Hardening]].<br />
<br />
===[[DDM]]===<br />
Direct Digital Manufacturing<br />
<br />
===DLP===<br />
Digital Light Processing is a display device based on optical micro-electro-mechanical technology that uses a digital micromirror device. This technology is used in DLP front projectors, but also used in additive manufacturing as a power source in some printers to cure resins into solid 3D objects.<br />
<br />
===[[DMD]]===<br />
Direct Metal Deposition<br />
<br />
===[[DMLS]]===<br />
Direct Metal Laser Sintering<br />
<br />
===[[Endstop]]===<br />
RepRap's Cartesian axes all need a datum (also known as home position or end-stop) to reference their movements. At the start of each build each axis needs to back up until the datum point is reached. The switches also help protect the machine from moving past its intended range and damaging itself.<br />
<br />
===EVA===<br />
Ethylene Vinyl Acetate. Several early RepRap research experiments used off-the-shelf EVA glue sticks in hot-glue guns. Those glue sticks are mostly EVA which melts around 85&deg;C.<br />
<br />
===Extrude===<br />
The act of placing the build material on the build platform, normally by heating [[thermoplastic]] to a liquid state and pushing it through a small nozzle commonly referred to as a "hot end".<br />
<br />
<br />
===[[Geared_Nema17_Extruder_Driver|Extruder]]===<br />
A group of parts which handles feeding and extruding of the build material. Consists of two assemblies: a cold end to pull and feed the thermoplastic from the spool, and a hot end that melts and extrudes the thermoplastic.<br />
<br />
===Filler===<br />
Fillers are solid materials that are added to polymers (or cements) and that do not interact chemically with it. They remain inert but do add special desired mechanical features to the compound. These can range from density alteration (make the compound heavier or lighter) additional strength (fibers...), resistance to abrasion and improved thermal properties (sands...) or simply thinning the compound to reduce material cost (talc).<br />
<br />
===[[FDM]]=== <br />
Fused Deposition Modeling. The term fused deposition modeling and its abbreviation to FDM are trademarked by Stratasys Inc. The equivalent term [[#FFF|fused filament fabrication (FFF)]], was coined by the members of the RepRap project to provide a phrase that would be legally unconstrained in its use.<br />
<br />
===[[FFF]]=== <br />
Fused Filament Fabrication. Where a filament of one material (plastic, wax, metal, etc.) is deposited on top of or alongside the same (or similar) material making a joint (by heat or adhesion).<br />
<br />
===[[Filament]]===<br />
Two uses:<br />
* Plastic material made into (often 3 mm or 1.75mm) string to be used as raw material in 3D printers.<br />
* Extruded plastic (often < 1 mm).<br />
<br />
===Frog===<br />
Also known as the ''squashed frog'', this is a part that the printing plate connects to. The frog connects directly to the linear bearings on the Y axis. The name comes from the original [[Sells Mendel]] part that looked like a "squashed frog".<br />
<br />
===[[G-code]]===<br />
The information sent over the wire from a PC to most computer numerical control (CNC) machines -- including most RepRaps -- is in G-code.<br />
While in principle a human could directly type G-code commands to a RepRap, most people prefer to use one of the many [[CAM Toolchains]] that reads a [[#STL|STL]] file and sends lines of G-code over the wire to the machine. The electronics in the machine then translate these commands into motor controller operations, among other things. <br />
<br />
Some researchers are developing [[Firmware/Alternative|alternatives to G-code]].<br />
<br />
=== Hardening ===<br />
The process by which the model hardens to its final form.<br />
<br />
===[[Heated Bed]]===<br />
A build surface warmed in order to keep the base of an extruded part from cooling (and shrinking) too quickly. Such shrinking leads to warping internal stresses in RP parts. The most common result is corners of parts lifting off the build surface. Heated beds usually yield higher quality finishing on the builds. They commonly consist of glass, ceramics, or metals like aluminum. <br />
<br />
===[[Heated Build Chamber]]===<br />
A heated build chamber is typically sealed and heated to prevent warping during the printing process.<br />
<br />
===[[HIPS]]=== <br />
High Impact Polystyrene, a [[thermoplastic]] used as a 3D printing material. Similar to ABS in material properties and can be dissolved using [[limonene]]. Therefore the has to stay 24h in a [[limonene]] bath. HIPS is also BPA-free and less inflexible than either ABS or PLA. Melting point is 235°C and the heating plate should have 105-120°C.<br />
<br />
===[[Hot End]]===<br />
The heated nozzle portion of the extruder mechanism, which gets hot enough to melt plastic (or potentially other materials). Hot end parts use materials that withstand temperatures up to ~240 °C (and higher for newer all-metal designs). The diameter of available nozzle orifices ranges from about 0.15mm to 1.0mm, with sizes in the range 0.3mm-0.5mm currently being the most common.<br />
<br />
===[[Kapton Tape]]===<br />
Heat-resistant polyimide adhesive tape. Used to secure the heating element to the extruder barrel. It can also be used on the surface of a heated bed. It is compatible with a temperature range of about 269 C.<br />
<br />
===[[Monomer]]===<br />
A molecule that, under the correct conditions, can link together with others to form larger molecules called polymers. A monomer must be capable of forming two or more bonds to other monomers.<br />
<br />
===[[NEMA Motor|NEMA]]===<br />
Usually meant to refer to a specific size of stepper motor.<br />
* [[NEMA 14 Stepper motor|NEMA 14]] - A smaller [[Stepper motor|stepper motor]] used in [[Huxley]] and others.<br />
* [[NEMA 17 Stepper motor|NEMA 17]] - A larger, more powerful [[Stepper motor|stepper motor]] used in [[Mendel]], Prusa i3 and many others.<br />
* [[NEMA 23 Stepper motor|NEMA 23]] - An even larger, very powerful [[Stepper motor|stepper motor]].<br />
<br />
===[[Nichrome]]===<br />
An alloy of nickel and chromium. Nichrome wire is used as a heating element in many extruder barrels and some heated bed designs. Simpler and less messy enamel resistors are often used for the same purpose.<br />
<br />
===Nylon===<br />
Nylon or polyamide is an engineering grade thermal plastic used in extruder based and laser sintering systems. There are different versions providing a range mechanical properties in either filament or powder form. These include nylon-6,6; nylon-6; nylon-6,9; nylon-6,10; nylon-6,12; nylon-11; nylon-12 and nylon-4,6.<br />
<br />
===OBJ=== <br />
Short for Object File, is an alternative to the [[STL]] file format.<br />
<br />
===Oligomer===<br />
Oligomers are big molecules composed of monomer bricks, joined together in more or less branched fashion, so as to provide polymerization seeds for the final polymer. A free analogy would be that monomers are to oligomers what a water molecule is to a snowflake. In commercial resins, oligomers are mixed with their monomer components so as to achieve a polymer of desired properties, due to their ability to spatially organize the polymerization process.<br />
<br />
===[[Parametric]]===<br />
(Adjective) Adjustable in all dimensions. A parametric model is one that can be resized and or distorted to suit the user's needs. In CAD software, If a widget has a 1 cm hole in it, you can select that hole and make it a 5 mm hole with a few clicks, as opposed to a triangular mesh (see [[#STL]]), which is more difficult to adjust.<br />
<br />
The native format of several [[Useful Software Packages|useful software packages]] can store parametric models.<br />
<br />
===[[PC]]===<br />
Polycarbonate is a thermoplastic, it's strong and impact resistant (It's used in the making of bullet proof glass and compact discs) temperature resistant and it can be extruded (at the right temperature). It can be bent and formed while cold without cracking or deform and it is also very optically 'crystal' clear to visible light (opaque to UV light), but it's actually not very easy to keep it clear during extrusion.<br />
<br />
===[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK PEEK]===<br />
Polyether Ether Ketone. A high temperature thermoplastic used as a thermal barrier in the extruder.<br />
<br />
===PET===<br />
Polyethylene terephthalate, commonly abbreviated PET, PETE or PETP.A polymer used as a 3D material.<br />
<br />
===[[PLA]]=== <br />
Polylactic Acid. A biodegradable [[thermoplastic]] polymer used as a 3D printer material. In many cases compounded with other polymers for become usable.<br />
Melding point 150-160°C. The material properties can vary, depending form the manufacture. It has been described as having a slightly sweet scent when melted or printing. <br />
<br />
Often PLA is used as a short form, actually referring to filament made of PLA: ''I use PLA in my [[Mendel]].''<br />
<br />
===Photopolymer===<br />
Photopolymers are used in light reaction systems either with ultraviolet or visible energy. The liquid material is cross-linked or hardened when exposed to light. Photopolymers are used in both Digital Light Processing(DLP) and Stereolithography(SLA) systems.<br />
<br />
=== PPP ===<br />
A photo-polymerization printer (PPP) is a 3D printer that uses ultraviolet, infrared, or visible light to selectively harden liquid feedstock in the right places to produce the desired 3D shape.<br />
<br />
===[[PVA]]===<br />
Polyvinyl Alcohol is water soluble filament used as 3D printing material for support. It is generally used as one of the filaments in dual extrusion 3D printers. PVA is water soluble whereas ABS and PLA are non water soluble. So, the object printed using both PVA and PLA/ABS can be dipped in water for the support material to dissolve. Melting range for PVA is 200-230°C depending form the polymerization level.The PVA filament must be stored with a drying agent, since it will absorb moisture out of the air very easily. Also, PVA decomposes rapidly above 200°C as it can undergo pyrolysis at high temperatures, which may block your nozzle leading to extrusion difficulties. PVA is fully degradable and is a quick dissolver. To speed up dissolving, gentle stirring can be applied. Warm water also speeds up the dissolving process.<br />
<br />
===[[PTFE]]===<br />
Polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon). A slippery thermoplastic often used as a barrel in the extruder to minimize friction with the filament.<br />
<br />
===Raft===<br />
A technique used to prevent warping. Parts are built on top of a 'raft' of disposable material instead of directly on the build surface. The raft is larger than the part and so has more adhesion. Rarely used with heated build surfaces. For the small area models, it is very useful to prevent warping via adding a raft for the model before slicing it. It can also help with with precision parts by removing the slight first few layer distortion caused by the heated bed.<br />
<br />
===[[Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield|RAMPS]]===<br />
RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield - one of the more popular flavors of the [["Official" Electronics|"Official"]] electronics.<br />
<br />
===[[RepRap]]===<br />
A RepRap machine is a rapid prototyping machine that can manufacture a significant fraction of its own parts. The RepRap project is a quest to make a desktop-sized RepRap machine.<br />
<br />
;To reprap: v. To make something in a RepRap machine.<br />
;Reprappable: adj. Capable of being made in a RepRap machine.<br />
<br />
See also: [[About]]<br />
<br />
===[[RepStrap]]===<br />
A 3D printing machine which can be used to make a RepRap, but is not a RepRap itself, as it wasn't made by something like itself. These are becoming less common as Mendel printed plastic parts become more available, but are still very popular. They're often sold in kit form or custom-made from scrounged parts.<br />
<br />
See also: [[What Tooling Do You Have]]<br />
<br />
===RP===<br />
Rapid prototyping. Creating an object in a matter of hours on a "3D printer" as opposed to sending out a job to a modeling shop which may take days or weeks. Also known as additive manufacturing.<br />
<br />
===Setting===<br />
See: [[#Hardening|Hardening]].<br />
<br />
===SLA===<br />
Stereo Lithography Apparatus. SLA is a registered trademark of 3D Systems Corporation. SL or stereolithography is commonly used in place of SLA.<br />
<br />
===SLS===<br />
Selective Laser Sintering. SLS is a registered trademark of 3D Systems Corporation. LS or laser sintering is commonly used in place of SLS.<br />
<br />
=== Spectra ===<br />
See [[#UHMWPE]].<br />
<br />
===[[Stepper motor]]===<br />
Motors which operate only in discrete increments of rotation. This is the type of motor most commonly used in [[Mendel]], the earlier [[Darwin]], and [[:Category:RepStrap|Repstraps]].<br />
<br />
===[[STL]]=== <br />
Short for Stereo Lithographic, which is a [[Recommended File Formats|recommended file format]] used to describe 3D objects. A design program (e.g. [[AoI]]) can produce an STL file which can then be fed to a 3D printer or 3D rendering graphics package.<br />
<br />
Possible alternatives to STL are discussed at [[a community specification for an improvement to STL files]].<br />
<br />
===[[Support Material]]===<br />
Printed material that acts as support to allow overhangs, arches, etc. to be printed. Can either be a secondary material ([[PVA]], [[HIPS]]) (requires dual extrusion) that can be removed, or the primary material that is broken away at the end of the print.<br />
<br />
===Squashed frog===<br />
See: [[#Frog|Frog]].<br />
<br />
===[[Mendel_materials_procurement#Thick_Sheet|Thick Sheet]]===<br />
A firm flat sheet of material 4-6 mm thick used as a printing surface. A variety of materials have been used, but the most important property is that it must be flat.<br />
<br />
=== [[UHMWPE]] ===<br />
Several RepRaps and RepStraps use fishing line as a low-cost alternative to toothed belts.<br />
Spun UHMWPE fiber fishing line is better than extruded monofilament fishing line for such drive trains because it has less stretch and is more abrasion-resistant.<br />
<br />
Dyneema and Spectra are trademarks for spun ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fiber.<br />
<br />
=== Viscosity ===<br />
Viscosity is a property of fluids determining it's resistance to flow. The higher the viscosity, the more difficult a material will be to extrude or dispense (more energy/pressure will be needed). Also, the higher the viscosity, the less the deposited thread of material will sag or change shape until hardening.<br />
<br />
For a detailed definition see [[Wikipedia:Viscosity|Viscosity]] on Wikipedia.<br />
<br />
===[[Vitamin]]===<br />
A non-replicated part.<br />
<br />
In RepRap jargon, a "vitamin" is anything that you need to build a RepRap which cannot yet be printed on a RepRap. For example, bolts, motors or bed.<br />
<br />
===[[Geared_Nema17_Extruder|Wade's Extruder]]===<br />
One of many designs for the "cold end" of an extruder. It is based on [[Adrian's Geared Extruder]], and includes many concepts from [[Nophead's Extruder Tweaks]].<br />
<br />
[[Category:Reference]]<br />
[[Category:Indices]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Hangprinter&diff=189384
Hangprinter
2021-11-09T01:48:40Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Hangprinter<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = 800px-Hangprinter_v3_printing_01.jpg<br />
|description = A RepRap using walls and ceiling as its frame<br />
|author = tobben<br />
|contributors = [[User:NinthDimension|NinthDimension]]<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|url = https://hangprinter.org<br />
|cadModel = OpenSCAD<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Working developments|Working developments]]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
The Hangprinter is an original RepRap design created by Torbjørn Ludvigsen ([[user:tobben]]) that is installed in a given space using the room itself as the frame. The design can also fit in a frame or under a table if one so desires. The printer has an effector that is suspended from the ceiling and moves using stationary motors with pulleys and very stiff line.<br />
<br />
{{#ev:vimeo|271008419}}<br />
<br />
== Advantages Over Traditional Designs ==<br />
<ul><br />
<li> Low part count.</li><br />
<br />
<li> Huge build volume (especially height) ([[MegaRap]]).</li><br />
<li> Space efficient. When printer is idle, it retracts itself up to the ceiling, leaving the whole room, including all desktop area, free to be used for other things.</li><br />
</ul><br />
<br />
== Drawbacks Compared To Traditional Designs ==<br />
<ul> <br />
<li> Reliability. Nothing unsolvable, but fewer engineering hours have been put into the details of this design compared to traditional ones. </li><br />
<li> Takes up much space while printing. </li><br />
</ul><br />
<br />
== Further reading ==<br />
<br />
* See [https://hangprinter.org hangprinter.org] for up to date links and information. -tobben<br />
* https://hangprinter.org/resources/ has a list of some of the people who have built a Hangprinter.<br />
* [[B&TRap]]<br />
* Is Hangprinter a kind of {{tag|Delta}} ?</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Plotting&diff=189377
Plotting
2021-11-08T22:15:56Z
<p>DavidCary: fix the remaining vimeo links, the same way Adrianbowyer fixed one recently.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development<br />
|name = Plotting<br />
|status = Experimental<br />
|image = plotting-emc2.png<br />
|description = Plotting drawings on flat surfaces with RepRap, like plotting on paper or printed circuit boards.<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Toolheads|Toolheads]][[Category:Toolheads]], [[:Category:Reference|Reference]][[Category:Reference]]<br />
|author = RepRap dev team<br />
|reprap =<br />
|url = <br />
|cadModel = <br />
}}<br />
<br />
=Introduction=<br />
By plotting using one RepRap 3D printer like Mendel, one can draw designs on a flat material like paper or copper printed circuit boards (PCB). By plotting on copper, RepRap empower us to make our own PCBs.<br />
Plotting onto copper-clad boards is perhaps the most promising way of [[Automated Circuitry Making]].<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">13521005|640|480</videoflash><br />
{{#ev:vimeo|13521005}}<br />
<br />
=What is needed=<br />
* draw the electronic schematic and then the PCB using a [[Useful Software Packages]] such as [http://kicad.sourceforge.net/ KiCad]. Export the Gerber files;<br />
* use a software to convert the Gerber files to GCode files that RepRap understands (see next topics), in this case for plotting;<br />
* install one pen on RepRap pen holder (see next topics) and start plotting.<br />
<br />
==Software tools==<br />
There are a few approaches ([[Pen_Holder|1]], [http://builders.reprap.org/2008/04/plotting-gerber-files.html 2], [[Builders/Replath 3]],[[Howto_PCB_from_Eagle| hpgl->gcode 4]]) but [[Mendel_User_Manual:_Host_Software|the standard RepRap host software]] and [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skeinforge Skeinforge] are RepRap's internal tools to make PCBs.<br />
<br />
===Using the RepRap Host Software===<br />
<br />
This facility is experimental, but it has already made a [[Pololu Electronics#Making the PCBs in RepRap|fully-working set of electronics for RepRap itself]].<br />
<br />
[[File:Reprapped-pcbs.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
Two PCBs for the [[Pololu_Electronics#Making_the_PCBs_in_RepRap|RepRap Pololu Electronics]] made using the RepRap host software. The one on the left still has the etch-resist red ink on and has just been rinsed after being etched. The one on the right has been drilled and soldered, and has all its components on.<br />
<br />
Note the solder that has been run along all the tracks of the board on the right. See [[Plotting#Hints_and_Tips|Hints and Tips]] below.<br />
<br />
====Generating the Gerber files from your PCB design====<br />
<br />
The RepRap host software needs two Gerber files for each PCB you want to make: the track layout and the drill file. So if you have a double-sided board (courageous...) you will need four files: two for each side.<br />
<br />
There is a job definition file for [http://cadsoft.de Eagle] to generate these automatically. It is in the file '''electronics/reprap-gerb274x.cam''' in the RepRap distribution. It should be straightforward to get other electronics CAD packages like [http://www.lis.inpg.fr/realise_au_lis/kicad/ Kicad] to output the same Gerber files that Eagle creates.<br />
<br />
Start by loading up the board you want to make and select the '''CAM Processor''' option from Eagle's dropdown '''File''' menu.<br />
<br />
In the CAM Processor's '''File''' menu select '''File->Open->Job...'''. Navigate to the RepRap CAM job file '''electronics/reprap-gerb274x.cam''' and load it.<br />
<br />
You will see that it has four tabs: Top Copper, Bottom Copper, Top Drill File and Bottom Drill File. These are the four files for the two sides of the board you are going to make. If you just have a single sided board, you can ignore the irrelevant pair.<br />
<br />
Hit the '''Process Job''' button, and Eagle will write the four files into the same directory as the PCB design is stored. (If you want them somewhere else, use the '''File''' button in each of the four tabs to say where to put the output before you process the job.) If your PCB is '''my_pcb.brd''', the four files will be:<br />
<br />
# '''my_pcb.top''' (Top Copper)<br />
# '''my_pcb.bot''' (Bottom Copper)<br />
# '''my_pcb.tdr''' (Top Drill File)<br />
# '''my_pcb.bdr''' (Bottom Drill File)<br />
<br />
The RepRap host software expects to see these extensions.<br />
<br />
You may wonder how the drill files differ. Holes are holes, after all. One is the mirror image of the other.<br />
<br />
====Creating G-Codes from the Gerber files to drive RepRap====<br />
<br />
You will need to have an [[Java_Software_Preferences_File#Extruder_Preferences|extruder in your RepRap]] called '''PCB-pen''' for this to work. This is done by changing the "Extruder_InFillMaterialType(name)=" preference for one of your extruders to "Extruder_InFillMaterialType(name)=PCB-pen". Of all the many extruder parameters that a standard RepRap extruder has, only two are important here: <br />
<br />
# Extruder3_ExtrusionSize(mm)=0.3<br />
# Extruder3_Lift(mm)=1.0<br />
<br />
The first is the width of the pen's drawn line. You may want to make this slightly smaller than the true width, so that there will be a small amount of overlap when adjacent lines are drawn. The second is how high from Z=0 to lift the RepRap X carriage to separate the pen from the PCB so it can move without leaving a mark.<br />
<br />
Run the RepRap Host software.<br />
<br />
If you select the host software's '''Display Paths''' radio button before you do anything else, it will show you plots of the PCB design and the corresponding pen paths.<br />
<br />
The software reads the Gerber file and creates an internal representation of the corresponding PCB from it that is exactly the same as its normal representation of a slice through an object to be reprapped. It then uses the drill file to dot small circular blank holes onto that pattern:<br />
<br />
[[File:pcb-in-reprap.png|500px]]<br />
<br />
It then uses the code that generates outlines from slices to run round the outside of the pattern. Then it repeatedly erodes away the pen's thickness from the pattern and runs round the outside of the result until there is nothing left. It then joins up all the resulting paths to reduce in-air movements of the pen. This uses a heuristic (an optimal result would require a full traveling salesman solution...):<br />
<br />
[[File:pcb-paths-from-reprap.png|500px]]<br />
<br />
Select the '''PCB''' button from the '''Print''' tab. It will ask you for the Gerber file you generated (either the Top Copper or the Bottom Copper file). It will load the corresponding drill file automatically. It will then ask you for a G-Code file for output in the usual way.<br />
<br />
It will then tell you the X and Y dimensions of your PCB and ask you to supply an offset. This is the point on the RepRap build base relative to (0, 0) where the bottom left corner of the PCB will go. This is particularly useful if you want to draw several PCBs on one large sheet of copper-clad board. You can run the program twice and position them beside each other so they are distinct. You then just replay the two G-Code files one after the other. Each G-Code file's final command shuts RepRap down, so you will have to press the reset button in between. <br />
<br />
The drill file is used to mark the centres of drill holes. Thus the drill diameters in it are not used. A standard small hole is plotted that the etchant will remove, making subsequent drilling much easier as the drill won't skid about over the copper surface.<br />
<br />
Here is a video of part of one of the PCBs above being plotted in RepRap:<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">14869949|640|480</videoflash><br />
{{#ev:vimeo|14869949}}<br />
<br />
===Using Slic3r===<br />
<br />
First one must convert the SVG file to STL, one can do it easily at http://svg2stl.com/, extrude the image with 1 mm or less.<br />
<br />
For the Reprap be able to plot, the printer must lift some milimeter when passing between segments. It is easy to accomplish this in [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r]. <br />
<br />
* First one should activate the "Expert Mode". In "File->Preferences..." select "Expert" in the "Mode" drop down menu. Restart Slic3r and you will be in "Expert Mode".<br />
<br />
* In "Expert Mode" many new options will show up. In the tab "Printer Settings", we need to set the option "Lift Z" in the "Extruder 1". You should select the amount of milimeter for your particular case, this is the distance the z-axi will lift between segments, 2-5 mm should suffice. Also set the "Nozzle Diameter" to the diameter of your pen. <br />
<br />
* Go to the tab "Plater" add your STL and export as G-CODE.<br />
<br />
* Now one can print the generated G-CODE, but one must deactivate the extruder, this can be easily done in [http://www.repetier.com/ Repetier-Host], just print in "Dry run" mode and the extruder will not be activate. <br />
<br />
===Using Skeinforge===<br />
Skeinforge don't open Gerber files, but open the 3D STL files. If we create a 3D object from the Gerber files and export to STL file, we will be able to use Skeinforge.<br />
<br />
To create a 3D object from Gerber file, we need the following Free Software tools (all of them are available to Linux Ubuntu where the following steps were done/tested):<br />
* [http://gerbv.sourceforge.net/ Gerbv] - to view Gerber file and export as PNG file<br />
* [http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape] - to import PNG file, create paths and export as SVG file.<br />
Note if you have a skeinforge after version 10.09, you can import inkscape svg directly and skip the Blender step below.<br />
Also Note: Markus had an issue with inkscape svg's not being scaled properly. here is his solution:<br />
<br />
<blockquote><br />
Ok, I just solved the issue. I was not aware that Skeinforge has now a scale plugin. With that this is easy. Inkscape always assumes 90 pixels per inch, we use 600 dpi instead of 90 when creating the PNG file. Skeinforge things the size is always in mm.<br />
<br />
Hence the scale factor is s = 90 / 600 / 2.54 = 0.059.<br />
</blockquote><br />
<br />
* [http://www.blender.org/ Blender] - to import SVG file, create 3D mesh and export STL file<br />
* [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skeinforge Skeinforge] - to open the STL file, generate the plot paths, simulate the plotting and export GCode file<br />
* [http://www.linuxcnc.org/ EMC2 (optional)] - to open the GCode file and simulate the plotting<br />
* [[Installing_RepRap_on_your_computer|RepRap host]], [[RepSnapper_Manual:Introduction|RepSnapper]], etc - programs to open the GCode file and controlling your RepRap, doing the plotting.<br />
<br />
Next are the steps needed to use generate plotting paths from Gerber files.<br />
<br />
*'''Gerber to SVG''' -- Export the gerber file as SVG using Gerbv:<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-gerbv.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
*'''SVG to PNG''' -- Import the SVG file using Inkscape, finally export to PNG file with 600DPI.<br />
<br />
*'''PNG to SVG paths''' -- Import the PNG file with Inkscape. Select the image and hit "SHIFT + ALT + B" to execute the Trace bitmap. De-select Smooth box and click on update button and finally on ok:<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-inkscape_trace_bitmap.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
Delete the PNG you imported before and leave just the paths. Select all the paths with paths tool (F2). Hit (CTRL + '+') for union all the paths. Finally export as SVG:<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-exporting_paths_svg.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
*'''SVG paths to 3D mesh STL''' -- Import the SVG file with Blender. Zoom to see what was imported, should be small. Hit "ALT + C" to convert curves to mesh:<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-curves_to_mesh.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
Hit "TAB" to enter edit mode. Hit "A" to select all vertices. Hit "W" and select "remove doubles" from the menu:<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-remove_doubles.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
Now let's extrude on Z axis by one unit. Hit "A" until all vertices are selected. Hit "E" to start extruding and "Z" to constrain on Z axis, finally hit "1" to extrude by one unit:<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-extrude_01.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-extrude_02.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
Now you should have a non-manifold mesh! You can verify by hiting "A" until all vertices are un-selected, then go to Select menu and choose Non-manifold - Blender will highlight any non-manifold vertice.<br />
<br />
Now hit "N" and verify that the measures of X and Y are incorrect. We need to change them to the correct values. I verified on KiCad the X and Y values and just apply them on Transform properties menu:<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-scale_x_y.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
Hit "TAB" to leave edit mode and now you have a correct size 3D object that should be almost equal from your initial gerber file:<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-blender.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
Now export to STL file.<br />
<br />
*'''STL to GCode''' -- With Skeinforge open the STL file and start the convertion to GCode. You can use some extruding profile and tweak it to get the best results.<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-skeinforge.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
*'''Simulation using EMC2 (optional)''' -- Although Skeinforge also do simulation, EMC2 can help you see in real time the plotting path. It's important to simulate at least until you get a correct tweaked profile for plotting.<br />
<br />
EMC2 can be builded on recent Linux Ubuntu versions on simulator mode - [http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/emcinfo.pl?Installing_EMC2#Simulator_on_other_versions_of_Ubuntu see this page].<br />
<br />
When you load the GCode, EMC2 may give errors because of custom M codes from RepRap, just make a copy of the GCode file, remove with a text editor the M codes and open again the file. Here the simulation happening:<br />
<br />
[[File:plotting-emc2.png|200px]]<br />
<br />
If you are happy with the final GCode file, then you may go ahead and load it with your RepRap software of choice like [[Installing_RepRap_on_your_computer|RepRap host]], [[RepSnapper_Manual:Introduction|RepSnapper]], etc.<br />
<br />
===Using cad.py===<br />
[[File:plotting-cadpy.jpg|right|200px]]<br />
An alternative tool path generation option cad.py is at http://www.cadsoftusa.com/<br />
# Export traces from Eagle or other circuit board software as an .png image @ 600dpi (Layers - Pads, Vias, Bottom, and Drill Aid). You will probably have to mirror the image with some image software (paint) to plot the bottom layer<br />
# Create tool paths with cad.py<br />
##First chose the png file by clicking the "Input File" button<br />
##Set "in. per unit": 4.06<br />
##Render the image again at this point<br />
##Click "Cam" button<br />
##Click "Output Format" and select file type: ".g(G Codes)"<br />
##Set the following values:<br />
###maximum vector: 0.75<br />
###tool diameter: 0.1666<br />
###tool overlap: 0.309<br />
###contours: -1<br />
##Click "contour" and wait for the paths to be generated. By default the file will be output to the input directory when you click the "save" button<br />
# Run the Mendelize tool http://github.com/metrixcreate/mendelize and the file should be ready for consumption:<br />
<pre><br />
mendelize.py -t 1.0 -z 60 -f 1800 ramps1.0mirror.g > ramps1.0mirror.gcode<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==Pen==<br />
===Permanent ink pens===<br />
====Fine-Tip Red Color Staedtler Lumocolor Permanent Marker 318-2====<br />
The Fine-Tip Red Color Staedtler Lumocolor Permanent Marker 318-2 is the best for this purpose. <br />
<br />
[[Image:red_fine_tip_staedtler_lumocolor_marker.jpg|400px|Fine-Tip Red Color Staedtler Lumocolor Permanent Marker 318-2.]]<br />
<br />
''One pen that works well on most etchants is the staedtler lumocolor permanent marker. The red color is best (the ink is also used in the marker for chemical lab glassware).<br />
<br />
It only resists strong etchants without fail if the pen is fairly fresh, so it may be best to get the refill station so you always have a "new" pen at low cost.'' - [http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/24189 via Homebrew_PCBs]<br />
<br />
====Pigment ink pens====<br />
*[http://www.staedtler.ca/pigment_liner_ca.Staedtler?ActiveID=25082 Staedtler pigment liner of 0.05mm, 0.1mm, 0.2mm, etc] can be bought on shops like [http://www.staples.com/Staedtler-Pigment-Liner-Sketch-Pens-Assorted-Line-Widths-Black-4-Pack/product_428755?storeId=10001&jspStoreDir=Staples&cmSearchKeyword=Staedtler+pigment&fromUrl=home&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&cmArea=SEARCH&ddkey=StaplesSearch Staples].<br />
This pigment ink should resist to the etchant just like the [http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/directinkjetresist.htm people that are printing PCBs with Epson printers which have his DureBrite pigment ink that resists to etch acid].<br />
<br />
==== other etch-resistant pens ====<br />
<br />
* Sharpie marker<br />
* nail polish<br />
* [http://www.google.com/search?q=&quot;etch-resistant+pen&quot; Google search: "etch-resistant+pen"]<br />
<br />
====Hints and Tips====<br />
<br />
These are what I (Adrian) did to get the Staedtler Lumocolor pen above to work. But most of them are generally applicable.<br />
<br />
# Design with fat tracks and pads. I use 1.27mm tracks and 2.5 mm diameter pads on a 2.54 mm grid. You can globally change the size of the tracks and pads in an existing Eagle PCB design using the Design Rules Check (DRC) menu tabs.<br />
# Don't use glass-fiber copper-clad board - it will blunt your drills and saw. Use copper-clad [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FR-2 resin bonded paper].<br />
# You need more than one layer of ink to resist the etchant. I went over the PCBs three times. A heated bed in your RepRap helps to speed things up here. The sequence is:<br />
## Plot the PCB with the pen<br />
## Take the pen out and put the cap on it.<br />
## Set the bed temperature to 50<sup>o</sup>C.<br />
## Leave it at that temperature for one hour.<br />
## '''Let the bed cool'''.<br />
## Re-plot the PCB over the now-dry ink.<br />
## Repeat twice more.<br />
# Check and correct the PCB ink pattern by hand using a magnifying glass, a scalpel, and the pen. Fill in any mistaken small holes with a generous blob of ink. Remove ink with the scalpel where it bridges between pads or other features that shouldn't be connected.<br />
# Leave the PCB overnight to dry fully before etching it.<br />
# Use freshly-made-up etchant. I use ferric chloride. Dissolve it in '''distilled''' water to give a saturated solution (i.e. until no more will dissolve). You can get distilled water by scraping the frozen condensation off the inside of a freezer.<br />
# Etchant is not that dangerous, but treat it with respect. It will indelibly stain anything it touches bright orange. Don't get it on your skin, your clothes, your hamster, or anything else that you value. Don't drink it.<br />
# Agitate the etchant while it is working (see the video below).<br />
# As soon as the last bit of unwanted copper has gone, take your PCB out using plastic tweezers and rinse it. Don't leave it in the etchant any longer than needed.<br />
# Don't take the ink off until you are ready to solder the PCB. It will stop the copper from oxidizing.<br />
# Remove the ink with methanol or acetone (i.e. methylated spirit or nail-varnish remover) soaked into a soft cloth or tissue.<br />
# Drill the PCBs holes using a pillar drill or a Dremel on a stand. Put a small piece of flat wood under the PCB to support it.<br />
# Don't just solder the components in, run solder along all the tracks too (see the picture of the PCB at the start of this section). This achieves three things:<br />
## It gives a fat path for any high-current parts of the circuit.<br />
## It fills in any small holes that the etchant may have made because the ink pattern was not perfect.<br />
## It prevents the copper from oxidizing. (You can also achieve this by spraying the board with varnish after it has been made '''and tested'''.)<br />
<br />
Here is a video showing an automatic etchant-agitating system (All right. An old ice cream tub and an electric motor) that I made years ago. It would be very easy to reprap one of these.<br />
<br />
<br />
{{#ev:vimeo|14880050}}<br />
<br />
You want the agitation to be vigorous enough that you have an almost-breaking wave running from one end of the tank to the other. The shallower the etchant, the more vigorous the agitation. The deeper the etchant, the more molecules of ferric chloride you will have to remove the copper...<br />
<br />
==Pen holder==<br />
<br />
In [http://www.thingiverse.com/ thingiverse] there are many [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:671711 nice pen holders] to be coupled on different extruder models: [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31983 1], [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1105152 2], [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:857129 3], [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790 4].<br />
<br />
See [[:Category:Toolheads]].<br />
In particular, [[:Category:PenHolderToolheads]].<br />
<br />
= For developers =<br />
If you are looking on information to know and understand about RS274X (Gerber) files, [http://www.artwork.com/gerber/274x/rs274x.htm see this page].<br />
<br />
Here is a sample design rule file for Eagle that likes 7mm traces, 7mm clearance(except pads & vias), restrings pads large enough for fat pens, etc. [[File:sampleEagleDR7mm.zip]]. It is by no means the limits to printing ability, but may give an idea how to set your design rules to fit your printer.<br />
<br />
[[Category:PenHolderToolheads]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics manufacturing]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Printing_materials&diff=189376
Printing materials
2021-11-08T21:58:11Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{languages|Printing materials}}<br />
<br />
= Printing Materials =<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
In this section we will discuss a number of materials that can be used with RepRap and the ways to use them, as well as the core information needed for their successful application.<br />
Many of these materials will fall under the Polymer class (loosely called plastics).<br />
In time we will also discuss clays, plasters, cements, gels, and any other materials we think can be of use.<br />
<br />
== Polymers ==<br />
<br />
=== Thermoplastic ===<br />
: ''Main page: [[:Category:Thermoplastic]]''<br />
<br />
The term thermoplastics applies to polymers that reversibly change phase with temperature.<br />
While keeping within a boundary of temperatures, these phase changes can be done safely and the material returns to it's original solid state after cooling, without any alteration in it's original properties.<br />
<br />
'''See also [[WorkingWithThermoplastic]].'''<br />
<br />
==== Thermoplastics Data Sheets and where to get them ====<br />
<br />
These are the various suppliers we've found. YMMV.<br />
<br />
===== [[Polymorph|Polymorph]] (Polycaprolactone) =====<br />
A useful plastic with a very low melting point that is hand-workable. You can use it to fashion your own parts without a machine, Its a tad bit expensive, but very handy. Check out the link above for suppliers.<br />
<br />
===== [[HDPE|HDPE]] (High Density PolyEthylene) =====<br />
This is very common engineering plastic. It is used in a wide variety of consumer goods. It's strong, durable, and has a decent melting point. It's also very cheap. Unfortunately it has, compared to FDM-friendlier plastics, a very high shrinkage factor when solidifying, so there isn't much of a chance of it ending up being the main working material of choice for RepRap.<br />
<br />
===== [[ABS|ABS]] (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) =====<br />
ABS is a general purpose, strong, and very resistant type of plastic. It is a bit more expensive than HDPE, but it also is a bit higher quality material than HDPE.<br />
<br />
===== [[PLA|PLA]] (Polylactic Acid) =====<br />
Polylactic acid is a cheap, biodegradable polymer, that is produced from [[lactic acid]], which can be obtained from the maceration of starch and sugars in biotanks. Typically it is produced from Genetically Modified Corn, grown in the United States, then processed as noted.<br />
<br />
===== [[PP|PP]] (Polypropylene) =====<br />
[http://www.abbeon1.com/newFiles/winfo3.html Abbeon Cal] $10 / lb<br />
<br />
===== Informations about plastics =====<br />
http://www.ides.com/info/generics<br />
(from http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,70471)<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Paste ===<br />
: ''Main: {{tag|Paste}}''<br />
: [[:Category:Paste Extruders]]<br />
<br />
In physics, a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/paste_(rheology) paste] is a substance that behaves as a solid until a sufficiently large load or stress is applied, at which point it flows like a fluid.<br />
<br />
A paste extruder, such as as [[Syringe Based Extruder]], could be adapted to [[Paste Extrusion]] a large number of materials, including [[Chocolate Extrusion]], [[Frostruder]], clay [[Ceramic Extrusion]], etc.<br />
<br />
=== Duroplastics ===<br />
Duroplastic polymers are plastics that once hardened cannot reversibly change phase (molten) through heat. Solvents may dilute some of them (Acrylics, Polyesters in their lower molecular weight form) and by evaporation of the solvent they will harden again. This application, very common in solvent based varnishes and paints, is nevertheless not practical for RepRap, as the volatile solvents take a long time to evaporate and in large section or layer thickness, this evaporation cannot be regulated and controlled so as to produce uniform deposition layers (bubbles, hardening imperfections).<br />
<br />
''Is "duroplastic polymer" a synonym for "[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/thermosetting_polymer thermosetting polymer]" ?''<br />
<br />
The most common way to obtain Duroplastics is by polymerizing their monomer and oligomer blends, also called '''Resins''', through chain reactions, whether initiated by catalysts and radicals that spring from reaction with moisture, pH, oxygen, radiation or heat (thermosetting) or auto-initiation with another identical monomer or a suitable copolymer. Polymerization can be initiated by a simple change in pH, by adding an acidic or basic reactant (Furan resins, phenol-formaldehide (Resol), urea-formaldehide...)<br />
<br />
For rapid prototype deposition, Duroplastic resins have to fulfill a number of conditions:<br />
<br />
1) They have to have a long work time, meaning that they have to remain fluid, preferably without any changes in viscosity and state for the whole time frame of the deposition session. Failing to do so would mean that the depositing tool would get clogged as well as introducing deposition artifacts and distortions due to variations in flow rates.<br />
<br />
2) They have to have the correct viscosity and plasticity, so that after deposition they don't sag too much or change shape noticeably. Additionally, at no moment during the hardening process should the volume of the polymer change severely. <br />
<br />
3) After deposition they have to have suitable adhesive properties so that threads glue together with the best possible bond strength.<br />
<br />
4) Once deposited, there has to exist a mechanism by which the polymer will set and harden, if possible, on command. The curing has to occur through the whole section of the deposited material, not just on the surface of the thread or layer. This point will be discussed under the section '''Catalysts and Initiators'''<br />
<br />
These conditions are less restrictive if you want to use these polymers as casting resins to fill molds (built by the deposition technique).<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Spontaneous polymerization resin blends ====<br />
This section will describe resins that need to be stored in two separated components for them to remain fluid for long periods of time. The most common blends of this class, generally called '''Dual Component Resins''' have to be mixed in a given proportion just before usage and start the polymerization chain reaction as soon as the two parts are homogeneously mixed.<br />
Spontaneously polymerizing monomers will not be addressed in their pure state, due to their uncontrollable and often dangerous polymerization properties. Additives and fillers can tame these processes so as to make them useful in some cases. <br />
<br />
Read more on [[spontaneous polymerization resin blends]]<br />
<br />
==== Triggered polymerization resin blends ====<br />
In this section we will discuss resin blends that can be mixed in their final composition and still be kept unchanged for long periods of time. They will only start polymerizing after having been given the right trigger effect (see '''Catalysts and Initiators''')<br />
<br />
[[TriggeredPolymerizationResinBlends|Read more on triggered polymerization resin blends]]<br />
<br />
==== Other Additives, Monomers, Fillers ====<br />
Here you will find a number of filler materials: [[FillerMaterials|Go to Fillers section]]<br />
<br />
A good website to find all types of monomers and oligomers with their descriptions and properties can be found at this very complete site: <br />
<br />
[http://www.sartomereurope.com/prodline.asp?plid=2 Oligomers at Sartomer.com]<br />
<br />
[http://www.sartomereurope.com/prodline.asp?plid=1 Monomers at Sartomer.com]<br />
<br />
or at<br />
<br />
[http://www.basf.com/rawmaterials/bcrawlaromer.html BASF Resins]<br />
<br />
For Organic products I have found some sites that provide chemical products all over the globe.<br />
Go to their web and search for the systematic name or name parts of the product. If you cave a CAS number (unique number for a given product) these sites will deliver a very accurate search result list. All of these sites require you to register to get prices and place orders:<br />
<br />
[http://www.chemexper.com/ Chemexper web, will give you a list of companies that sell the searched compound]<br />
<br />
[http://www.acros.com/ ACROS Organics]<br />
<br />
'''Concrete''' <br />
<br />
If the entry is wrong here, move it to a better place.<br />
<br />
The video is in german language. Maybe there are other sources.<br />
<br />
Pricing for a house in the video 5000 US$<br />
<br />
[http://www.faz.net/-gqe-7osmx Used for building houses]<br />
<br />
== Catalysts and Initiators ==<br />
There are several chemical types of catalysts that are of use to RepRap. All of them, independently of their chemical type, fall into two categories of importance to RepRap and those will be discussed below:<br />
<br />
=== Catalysts for dual-component mixes ===<br />
[[SpontaneousPolymerizationResinBlends|Spontaneously catalyzed systems]] start the polymerization reaction as soon as the catalyst comes in contact with the monomer. They do not need any further external input to fulfill their initiator role, be it heat, moisture, radiation (UV, visible, IR...).<br />
<br />
=== Catalysts for single-component mixes ===<br />
[[TriggeredPolymerizationResinBlends]] need a triggering effect (a [[TriggeredCatalysts]]) to start their initiator role. This is an obvious advantage as they can be blended in the monomer mix and be kept on the shelve for significant amounts of time (weeks, months...). They will not clog any tubings, pumps or dispensers. Also, they offer one more level of control, being able to decide when and where to apply the trigger effect and sometimes also when to stop the chain reaction. These triggered initiators are usually more complex as the first category, specially if what you are looking for is a rapid reaction producing fast setting times through thick sections of material. One example of these systems are the acrylic based tooth fillings the dentists use, that are triggered by UV light. <br />
Many varnishes are also UV triggered but they have a much longer setting time and require hour-long exposures to achieve definitive hardening.<br />
<br />
== '''Misc''' ==<br />
<br />
[[Cheese]] <br><br />
[[Chocolate_Extrusion]] <br><br />
[[Pancakebot]] <br><br />
See [[:Category:Food]] <br><br />
See ''{{tag|Paste}}'' <br><br />
See [[:Category:Edible Paste Extruders]] <br><br />
See [[:Category:Consumables]] <br><br />
<br> <br><br />
[[Gutta-Percha]] from tropical trees, a natural [[rubber]] [[latex]] like material<br />
<br> <br><br />
[[Wheat paste]] <br><br />
[[Glue]]<br />
<br> <br> <br />
In short, whatever [[thermoplastic]] type material you can extrude from a nozzle <br><br />
See [[Category:thermoplastic]] <br><br />
<br />
= Glossary of Terms and Definitions =<br />
Here you will find a short and basic explanation of terms used in all the sections above.<br />
If some term used above seems unclear to you, please post a message in the forum and I will see to add the term to this glossary.<br />
<br />
[[Glossary|Go to Glossary]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Consumables| ]]<br />
[[Category:Thermoplastic| ]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=TriggeredPolymerizationResinBlends&diff=189375
TriggeredPolymerizationResinBlends
2021-11-08T21:56:47Z
<p>DavidCary: fix broken links, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>[[ printing materials | Back to Printing Materials page ]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
= Triggered Polymerization Resin Blends =<br />
<br />
== Resins, Oligomers, Monomers ==<br />
<br />
'''Sunrez''' is a site that sells ready-made UV set resins. The prices are good but the shipping costs are very steep. This would be useful for people that don't want to mix their resins themselves starting from base products. I guess they mostly deliver in the USA, but it would be interesting to find out if they have resellers worldwide and if you can get their products in retail shops to save the shipping costs:<br />
<br />
http://www.sunrez.com/indexprod.html<br />
<br />
These Sunrez resins use a standard UV-A category of lamps, the ones used for sun-tanning.<br />
<br />
'''Methyl Methacrylate.''' This is the monomer used for making Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA, Plexiglas). It is a liquid and doesn't smell to bad, so it would be the ideal product to formulate acrylate resins. It's also not to expensive as acrylates come.<br />
<br />
[http://www.polysciences.com/shop/product.asp?dept%5Fid=300002&pf%5Fid=00834&mscssid=BTGNNDTRAKDK8P3XJ5C56ETA1GVX70R5 MMA at Polysciences]<br />
<br />
[http://www.acros.com/DesktopModules/Acros_Search_Results/Acros_Search_Results.aspx?search_type=CatalogSearch&SearchString=80-62-6 MMA at ACROS]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''This site''' offers a range of rubber and glazing resins that may have interesting properties for some applications. Somewhat expensive...<br />
<br />
[http://polydiam.com/shop/products.php?cat=26 At Polydiam]<br />
<br />
'''Polyester Acrylate Resins.''' Unsaturated polyester resins, show a lower shrinkage upon curing. That is why they exhibit good intercoat adhesion properties. Fast cure response.<br />
<br />
A good website to find all types of monomers and oligomers with their descriptions and properties can be found at this very complete site: <br />
<br />
[http://www.sartomereurope.com/prodline.asp?plid=2 Oligomers at Sartomer.com]<br />
<br />
[http://www.sartomereurope.com/prodline.asp?plid=1 Monomers at Sartomer.com]<br />
<br />
or at<br />
<br />
[http://www.basf.com/rawmaterials/bcrawlaromer.html BASF Resins]<br />
<br />
For an extensive list of worldwide resellers of chemical products, visit the following site. <br />
<br />
[http://www.chemexper.com/ www.chemexper.com]<br />
<br />
== Catalysts Systems ==<br />
In this section we will list a number of catalyst that will trigger it's desired action through an external input. They have different uses and may be triggered through heat, UV-light, visible light, electron beam radiation, moisture exposition etc.<br />
<br />
For each catalyst I will describe a number of applications where it can be used, although the list is virtually endless. I have chosen the catalysts for their ease of use, price and availability, and have tried to use the safest available. Nevertheless, all precautions on manipulating chemicals apply! These compounds will probably always be noxious, flammable, irritant, and may even cause cellular damage. Use gloves (plastic or rubber gloves will do fine) and I recommend wearing some kind of protective clothes (painter suit or large aprons).<br />
<br />
=== Ultraviolet Photoinitiators ===<br />
<br />
==== Benzophenones ====<br />
<br />
These molecules contain two aromatic functional groups that adsorb UV light which puts the molecule in an excited state. Together with amines or even alone, they easily form radicals that trigger the polymerization chain reaction. The average concentration of Benzophenone initiators in the polymer blend lies between 1 and 4 weight percent (wt%). High concentrations speed up the hardening process. Lower concentrations allow a better hardening of deep layers.<br />
Benzophenones may be used for hardening of Acrylates (together with tertiary Amines), Polyesters and some Epoxy resins. <br />
<br />
===== Benzophenone =====<br />
(also: Diphenyl ketone or Diphenylmethanone, CAS N� 119-61-9)<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/pub/Main/TriggeredCatalysts/IR_Benzophenone.png<br />
<br />
The adsorption spike at 260nm means that it will be triggered by fairly energetic UV light. Energetic UVs tend to travel less deep into the material and remain in the surface boundary, where it is adsorbed very fast. UV-B light at 260nm is to be obtained from germicidal UV lamps. This initiator is to be used in combination with others that adsorb longer wavelengths. It may also be used together with tertiary Amines for Acrylate blends or any mixes that suffer surface radical scavenging from air-oxygen. Benzophenone is a fairly safe compound to use.<br />
<br />
[http://www.acros.com/DesktopModules/Acros_Search_Results/Acros_Search_Results.aspx?search_type=CAS&SearchString=119-61-9 Benzophenone at ACROS Organics]<br />
<br />
[http://212.202.102.92/abcr/frmSuche.aspx?s=&name=benzophenone&anr=&sf=&cas=119-61-9 Benzophenone at ABCR]<br />
<br />
[http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/search/ProductDetail/SIAL/B9300 Benzophenone at Sigma Aldrich]<br />
<br />
===== Michler's Ketone =====<br />
(also: 4,4'-Bis(dimethylamino)benzophenone, CAS N� 90-94-8)<br />
<br />
http://reprap.org/pub/Main/TriggeredCatalysts/IR_Michlers_ketone.png<br />
<br />
The broad adsorption spike at 380nm and above of this initiator allows it to react at deeper levels of polymer. This is an ideal initiator to mix with Benzophenone, for a fast combined surface and deep curing reaction. Caution! Michler's Ketone has a higher health hazard than Benzophenone. Use gloves and mix it in ventilated areas.<br />
<br />
[http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/search/ProductDetail?ProdNo=147834&Brand=ALDRICH Michler's ketone at Sigma Aldrich]<br />
<br />
[http://www.acros.com/DesktopModules/Acros_Search_Results/Acros_Search_Results.aspx?search_type=CAS&SearchString=90-94-8 Michler's ketone at ACROS Organics]<br />
<br />
[http://212.202.102.92/abcr/frmSuche.aspx?s=&name=&anr=&sf=&cas=90-94-8 Michler's ketone at ABCR]<br />
<br />
== Fillers ==<br />
<br />
[[ FillerMaterials | Go to Fillers section ]]<br />
<br />
== Formulation Examples ==<br />
<br />
= Glossary of Terms and Definitions =<br />
Here you will find a short and basic explanation of terms used in all the sections above.<br />
If some term used above seems unclear to you, please post a message in the forum and I will see to add the term to this glossary.<br />
<br />
[[ glossary | Go to glossary of terms and definitions ]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Consumables]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Spontaneous_polymerization_resin_blends&diff=189374
Spontaneous polymerization resin blends
2021-11-08T21:56:03Z
<p>DavidCary: fix broken links, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>[[ printing materials | Back to Printing Materials page ]]<br />
<br />
<br />
= Spontaneous Polymerization Resin Blends =<br />
There are many dual component polymers available in the market that illustrate this behavior. Most of them are epoxys and are excellent materials as well as versatile. Some dual polymer mixes are in a 1:1 proportion or similar and could be counted in the auto-initiated sub-category of polymers. Nevertheless, for our purposes, both cases have identical applications and usage parameters.<br />
<br />
== Resins, Oligomers, Monomers ==<br />
[http://www.shopmaninc.com/adhesives.html Putty, fast hardening Epoxy]<br />
<br />
[http://www.shopmaninc.com/polyesters.html Polyester Resins]<br />
(Isophthalic, Vinyl Ester, Marine, General purpose, Casting Resin, Surfboard Resin, Gelcoat)<br />
<br />
[http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html Polyester Resins and Gelcoats at uscomposites]<br />
<br />
[http://www.decomp.com/Resin%20Services/contents.htm Epoxy Resins and more at Decomp]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html Epoxy Resins at uscomposites]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uscomposites.com/polyprod.html Polyester Putty and other stuff at uscomposites]<br />
<br />
[http://www.shopmaninc.com/polyesters.html Epoxy Resins]<br />
(Thin coat, thick coat...)<br />
<br />
A good website to find all types of monomers and oligomers with their descriptions and properties can be found at this very complete site: <br />
<br />
[http://www.sartomereurope.com/prodline.asp?plid=2 Oligomers at Sartomer.com]<br />
<br />
[http://www.sartomereurope.com/prodline.asp?plid=1 Monomers at Sartomer.com]<br />
<br />
or at<br />
<br />
[http://www.basf.com/rawmaterials/bcrawlaromer.html BASF Resins]<br />
<br />
== Catalysts Systems ==<br />
<br />
[http://www.shopmaninc.com/solvents.html Monomers, MEK-Peroxide hardener for polyesters]<br />
<br />
[http://www.polysciences.com/shop/product.asp?dept%5Fid=100405&pf%5Fid=24232&mscssid=BTGNNDTRAKDK8P3XJ5C56ETA1GVX70R5 Benzoyl Peroxide hardner for polyesters]<br />
<br />
== Fillers ==<br />
<br />
[[FillerMaterials | Go to Fillers section ]]<br />
<br />
== Formulation Examples ==<br />
<br />
== Additives ==<br />
<br />
<br />
= Glossary of Terms and Definitions =<br />
Here you will find a short and basic explanation of terms used in all the sections above.<br />
If some term used above seems unclear to you, please post a message in the forum and I will see to add the term to this glossary.<br />
<br />
[[glossary | Go to glossary of terms and definitions ]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Consumables]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Hot_End_Design_Theory&diff=189103
Hot End Design Theory
2021-06-12T21:39:10Z
<p>DavidCary: Is this the right place to mention quick-change hot end interfaces?</p>
<hr />
<div>The hot end is arguably the most complex aspect of 3d printers as it deals with the tricky business of melting and extruding plastic filament. To understand the design features of hot ends, you must have a basic knowledge of the thermal properties of thermoplastics, specifically the way they behave at their glass transition temperature (Tg). <br />
<br />
The [[hot end]] and the [[Cold End]] together make up the [[extruder]].<br />
<br />
=== Glass Transition Temperature (Tg) ===<br />
At temperatures below Tg, thermoplastics retain their hard, solid consistency (as we see in plastic filament). As the temp rises above the Tg of the thermoplastic, its consistency changes from solid to rubbery and it begins to expand. <br />
<br />
=== Melting Temperature (Tm) ===<br />
If you continue to increase the temperature, the filament will eventually hit its melting temperature (Tm). At the melting temperature, the plastic becomes a liquid. Once the plastic is in the liquid phase, it can be extruded.<br />
<br />
=== The Critical Transition Phase ===<br />
The transition phase between the Tg and Tm temperatures is the most critical point of the extrusion process. Just before hitting the liquid phase, the consistency of the filament is rubbery.<br />
<br />
In this rubbery transition state, the plastic will expand and grip the inside of the hot end and will resist extrusion/retraction and thus increase the likelihood of the hot end jamming. As a result, the hot end developer makes an effort to mitigate this problem by reducing the area that the rubbery plastic can grip and cause jams (by shortening the transition zone), and by reducing the friction between the rubbery plastic and the interior walls of the hot end (by polishing the internal pathway within the hot end). This rubbery filament problem is more apparent when extruding PLA which has a very low Tg (about 60&nbsp;&deg;C).<br />
<br />
== RESEARCH ==<br />
<br />
=== Temperature vs extrusion speed ===<br />
<br />
Willy has done a number of interesting measurement series: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?252,217620 . He adjusted his extruder to loose steps at some specific torque, then he tested how fast he could extrude at different temperatures. The result is, the hotter the heater is, the faster one can extrude (not surprising) and also, that this relation is pretty much linear (a bit unexpected) over the entire 170&nbsp;&deg;C to 260&nbsp;&deg;C range tested on a piece of PLA.<br />
<br />
To sum up this work in one equation:<br />
<br />
<!-- See talk page for discussion of these 2 versions of this formula --><br />
<br />
<math>V_{max} = k(T_{HotEnd}-T_{softening})</math><br />
<br />
V<sub>max</sub> = k (T<sub>HotEnd</sub> - T<sub>softening</sub>)<br />
<br />
Where<br />
* V<sub>max</sub> is the maximum velocity achievable by a given extruder. (aka, nozzle pressure for the max torque the extruder motor can handle)<br />
* T<sub>HotEnd</sub> is the temperature of the hot end. Note that the filament temperature is somewhat lower than this, especially in the center.<br />
* T<sub>softening</sub> is the softening temperature of the filament. This is the lowest temperature at which it is possible to extrude; around 153&nbsp;&deg;C for PLA. This should be approximately equal to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vicat_softening_point Vicat softening point].<br />
* k is some empirically determined constant. It is a property of the extruder. In theory, k should scale with both nozzle area (aka, Pi*R^2) and the torque the motor can produce. More efficient hot ends should also contribute to a higher k, since the filament temperature should be closer to T<sub>HotEnd</sub>.<br />
<br />
It would be interesting to conduct these sorts of tests for different nozzle diameters and filament sizes. Thinner filament should heat more quickly, allowing it to be extruded more rapidly. Smaller nozzle apertures would create higher back pressure, limiting extrusion speed.<br />
<br />
<br />
One researcher speculates that:<br />
Perhaps the ABS in this experiment isn't really getting heated up all the way to 260&nbsp;&deg;C.<br />
Perhaps the thermistor is measuring 260&nbsp;&deg;C at one point, but the rapid injection of cold ABS plastic is keeping the actual temperature of the ABS plastic at the tip at some lower temperature, creating a strong temperature gradient. (Assuming a constant thermal resistance, the amount of heat energy per second flowing down that temperature gradient is proportional to the difference in temperatures).<br />
<br />
=== ideal hot end ===<br />
<br />
What *should* happen in the extruder, independent of how this is mechanically implemented?<br />
<br />
==== shape ====<br />
Is there an optimum shape inside the nozzle to transition from the input feedstock to the output filament?<br />
In other words:<br />
Is it better to have a blunt, sharp transition,<br />
or is it better to have a very gradual taper<br />
from the 3 mm or 1.75 mm feedstock as it comes from [[Printing Material Suppliers]],<br />
to the output [[filament]] exiting a hole typically 0.5 mm diameter?<br />
<br />
==== thermal conductivity ====<br />
What [[Thermal Conductivity]] does the hot end really need to have?<br />
Researchers initially thought that the hot end<br />
needed to have a high thermal conductivity --<br />
so the first RepRap, [[Darwin]], used lots of<br />
109&nbsp;W/(m*K) brass in the hot end.<br />
More recent researchers seem to think lower thermal conductivity<br />
would be better --<br />
16&nbsp;W/(m*K) stainless steel in the [[Strong Nozzle]],<br />
1&nbsp;W/(m*K) [[Glass Nozzles]],<br />
etc.<br />
<br />
== Quick-change ==<br />
<br />
When testing different hot end designs, it's useful to be able to quickly swap them in and out to make a fair test.<br />
<br />
[[category: extruders#mount to rest of machine]] mentions a few interface standards for quickly swapping the entire extruder in and out.<br />
<br />
[FIXME:<br />
Is there a RepRap page about nozzle quick-change standards such as the Olsson Block by Anders Olsson,<br />
[https://ultimaker.com/learn/the-olsson-block-a-community-invention-by-anders-olsson "The Olsson Block - a community invention by Anders Olsson"]<br />
mentioned in<br />
[https://www.3dsourced.com/3d-printers/open-source-3d-printer/ "Open Source 3D Printers 2021 (With Links To Designs)"]<br />
?]<br />
<br />
== Multi-input extruders ==<br />
: ''main article: [[adding more extruders]]''<br />
<br />
Most 3d printers have only a single input for raw material.<br />
What extra design considerations are relevant to multi-input 3d printer?<br />
<br />
What extra design considerations are relevant to the various kinds of multi-input systems:<br />
* single material type (with more-or-less the same melting and transition temperatures) in multiple colors: [[multicolor-extruder]]; [[RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/RepRap Media Timeline]]; [[:Category: Diamond Hotend]]; [[Repetier Color Mixing]]; etc.<br />
<br />
* multiple material types (with different transition and melting temperatures): [[RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Software/Parts/Dual Extruder]]; etc.<br />
** support material (with different transition and melting temperatures from the desired material): [[Support Extruder]]; [[HIPS]]; [[Limonene]]; etc.<br />
** different materials (with different transition and melting temperatures) that all end up in the final part: so "something like swimming goggles (lens, rubber, and hard plastic) can be printed without stopping the print." -- [[RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/RepRap Media Timeline]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Further reading ==<br />
<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?70,88930 RepRap forums: "What would be the ideal (theoretical) hotend?"]''<br />
<br />
* [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.ie/2009/03/rheology.html nophead: "HydraRaptor: Rheology"]<br />
<br />
* [[Hot End Comparison]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Hot End]]<br />
<br />
[[category: reference]]<br />
[[category: principles]]<br />
[[category: Theory & Research]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Hot End]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Category:Extruders&diff=189102
Category:Extruders
2021-06-12T21:23:50Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|:Category:Extruders}}<br />
<br />
[[File:extruder_lemio.svg|thumb|right|alt=The extruder with all parts named|This is a 'standard' (wade's like) extruder with all parts named.]]<br />
The [[Darwin]] and [[Mendel]] Repraps were designed to extrude [[PLA]] plastic.<br />
People have developed many ways of improving on the original [[extruder]].<br />
It didn't take long before people starting trying to make them extrude other pastes, including [[ABS]] and even delicious frosting: Frostruder[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4394].<br />
RepRap forums: "Frostruder MK2 = Granular extruder?"[http://dev.forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,29500].<br />
<br />
To extrude [[molten plastic]] [[Extruded filament|filament]], the "[[Cold End]]" forces the raw material (usually a 1.75mm or 3mm [[Printing_Material_Suppliers|diameter filament]]) into the [[hot end]]. The [[feeding filament]] should then go through the "[[Hot End]]" of the extruder with the heater and out of the [[nozzle]] at a reasonable speed. The extruded material falls onto the build platform (sometimes heated) and then layer by layer onto the part as it is built up.<br />
<br />
=== cold end ===<br />
<br />
The "[[Cold End]]" is usually the bulk of the extruder. It is often the actual carriage on one axis and supports the rest of the parts. In some designs, the "[[Cold End]]" is split into two parts; one part does the driving of the filament that is stationary and connected to the carriage portion, of a lighter weight design for easier movement, with a [[Bowden Extruders|flexible tube]]. The drive is a motor that rotates a knurled, hobbed, or toothed pinch wheel against a pressure plate or bearing with the filament forced between them. Usually, the motor is geared to the pinch wheel to increase available torque and extrusion control (smoothness). The gearing can be a 3D printed pinion and gear, stock worm wheel and gear, or a more expensive integral motor gearbox. Stepper motors are used almost universally after initial trials with DC motors did not achieve the required repeatability. Servo motors are an option, though they are not seen in the literature yet. The final function, some form of cooling, keeps the "[[Cold End]]" cold. With the close proximity to the "[[Hot End]]" and possible heated build platforms and enclosures, it is sometimes necessary to have additional passive or active cooling of the cold end parts. Heat sinks and fans are often used; water and Peltier effect cooling is also discussed. Much of this bulk is usually made from 3D printed parts and the temperature is maintained within safe limits.<br />
<br />
=== hot end attachment ===<br />
<br />
The "[[Cold End]]" is connected to the "[[Hot End]]" across a thermal break or insulator (the Bowden tube if used is on the cold side of this thermal break). This has to be rigid and accurate enough to reliably pass the filament from one side to the other, but still prevent much of the heat transfer. The materials of choice are usually PEEK plastic with PTFE liners or PTFE with stainless steel mechanical supports or a combination of all three. A Hot End is frequently joined to the Cold End using a [[Groove Mount]] where the thermal break or insulator is part of the Hot End assembly and the Cold End body is provisioned with a cylindrical recess.<br />
<br />
Many cold ends push the filament out a large hole centered between 2 small holes about 50 mm apart. ''(Is there a name for this de-facto standard?)''<br />
Some people rigidly attach a groove mount hot end to such a cold end with the [[mounting plate]] adapter and two short bolts.<br />
A few people put 2 long bolts through those holes and then put a spring around those bolts to make a [[spring extruder]].<br />
<br />
=== hot end ===<br />
<br />
: ''main article: [[Hot End Design Theory]]''<br />
<br />
The "[[Hot End]]" is the active part of the 3D printer that melts the filament. It allows the molten plastic to exit from the small nozzle to form a thin and tacky bead of plastic that will adhere to the material it is laid on.<br />
The first RepRap hot end was made of [[Materials#Brass | brass]]. Researchers have also made hot ends from [[glass Nozzles | glass]] or aluminium.<br />
The hot end consists of a melting zone or chamber with two holes.<br />
The cold end forces the filament into the hot end -- into the heating chamber of the hot end -- through one hole.<br />
The molten plastic exits the heating chamber through the other hole at the tip.<br />
The hole in the tip (nozzle) has a diameter of between 0.3mm and 1.0mm with typical size of 0.5mm with present generation extruders. Outside the tip of the barrel is a heating means, either a wire element or a standard wire wound resistor. The heat required is of the order of 20W with typical temperatures around 150 to 250 degrees Centigrade. For feedback control of the nozzle temperature, a thermistor is usually attached close to the nozzle, though a thermocouple may serve with suitable control hardware. High temperature [[materials]] are needed here. These include metals, cements and glues, glass and mineral fibre materials, [[PEEK]], [[PTFE]] and [[Kapton Tape|Kapton tape]].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== mount to rest of machine ===<br />
<br />
The ways extruders are mounted on the rest of the machine have evolved over time into informal mounting standards.<br />
These informal standards include<br />
the [[Vertical X Axis Standard]],<br />
the [http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/03/mendelmax-quick-fit-x-and-quick-fit.html Quick-fit extruder mount],<br />
the [[OpenX]] mount,<br />
the [[Quick change X Carriage]],<br />
etc.<br />
Such de-facto standards allows new extruder designs to be tested on existing printer frames,<br />
and new printer frame designs to use existing extruders.<br />
''(Does the "greg-adapter.scad" adapter in the [[Prusa i3 Build Manual]]''<br />
''let me mount an OpenX extruder on a Vertical X Axis machine?)''<br />
<br />
Such standardization accelerates RepRap improvements (as described in [[Combinatorics Problem]])<br />
by making it easier to make quick, fair comparisons between various incremental improvement ideas<br />
by swapping out just the part that's different and keeping the rest of the machinery the same.<br />
Especially when such standards support quick-change back-and-forth testing.<br />
<br />
=== categorizing extruders on the wiki ===<br />
<br />
Add extruders to this "extruders" category by adding <code><nowiki>{{tag|extruders}}</nowiki></code> anywhere on the wiki page about that extruder (typically in the "categories" section of the [[template:development | development]] template).<br />
Also add the appropriate sub-category(s) --<br />
<code><nowiki>{{tag|Cold End}}</nowiki></code> or<br />
<code><nowiki>{{tag|Hot End}}</nowiki></code> or<br />
<code><nowiki>{{tag|Paste Extruders}}</nowiki></code> or<br />
etc.<br />
-- in the same section of that wiki page.<br />
<br />
* Can we come up with an idealized model of what *should* happen in the extruder independent of how it is implemented? [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?70,88930 RepRap forums: "What would be the ideal (theoretical) hotend/extruder combo?"]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Toolheads]]<br />
[[Category:Development]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Combinatorics_Problem&diff=189101
Combinatorics Problem
2021-06-12T20:52:07Z
<p>DavidCary: direct link to some of the standards alluded to.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{merge|DocumentationMain}}<br />
Working Notes, please edit.<br />
<br />
The Combinatorics Problem, relative to the RepRap project, deals with the tremendous amount of variation that happen in the project because of it's nature. There are many goals of the project, and many needs of the userbase. Because of this, it's very difficult to address all the needs and goals of all users involved. Hopefully we'll be able to find solutions to the ever-expanding amount of information and how to properly document it.<br />
<br />
=Stack=<br />
==Documentation Solution==<br />
The Stack template is one solution to this:<br />
[[Template:Stack]]<br />
<br />
(Work in Progress)<br />
--[[User:Sebastien Bailard|Sebastien Bailard]]<br />
<br />
==Personal and individual user solution==<br />
We need a solution for each user. This may be a paper or text file copy of the the Stack Template?<br />
<br />
==Definition==<br />
A "Stack" is a current and hopefully working software and machine configuration, that exists on the desktop of a user. The "RepRap Stack" is the software and machine configuration we guarantee will work. All other stacks are "Stuff that needs more research and documentation".<br />
<br />
The particular RepRap or RepStrap system on someone's desk can be (conceptually) divided into a stack of regions or "layers".<br />
Usually a layer of the stack only touches and communicates to two other layers, the layers "above" and "below" it, with (hopefully) well-structured and well-documented interfaces.<br />
<br />
Note: I may want to rewrite all of this as the "RepRap Stack", and other "Stacks". The RepRap Stack is guaranteed to work. Everything else is ongoing research, todo notes, abandonware, and so on. I'm not sure where the action items are yet. Besides "make the website better".--[[User:Sebastien Bailard|Sebastien Bailard]] 02:52, 14 February 2010 (UTC)<br />
<br />
Presenting and maintaining a "RepRap Stack" of modules that work together is a crucial RepRap developer responsibility. As is documentation. Mind you, I might be working on an [[Eiffel]], [[BitBanger]], Extruder-and-Spindle aka [[Shape Deposition Manufacturing]] (SDM), and [[EMCRepRap|EMC]] Stack 50% of the time.<br />
<br />
This is much easier with the Linux kernel, gnu tool chain, Filesystem Hierarchy Standard directory structure, X window software, KDE Desktop, and Firefox browser that I'm using right now, aka my "Browser Stack".<br />
<br />
But helping maintain the wiki that we use to sort this all out is the responsibility of all of us.<br />
<br />
Deleting everything but the current working Sat Feb 13 22:13:21 EST 2010 RepRap Stack is silly.<br />
<br />
<br />
== bacteria-style evolution ==<br />
<br />
The way RepRap developers collaborate to design new, improved machines is similar to some models of bacteria-style evolution.[http://www.3dreplicators.com/cgi-bin/cblog/index.php?/archives/499-After-Darwin-Should-Mendel-be-a-specific-3D-printer-or-a-technology-toolbox.html]<br />
<br />
There are so many people involved in RepRap that every part of the stack is under research and development and simultaneously being improved by someone, somewhere.<br />
<br />
One method of improvement is obvious: someone thinks up a different way to make something -- generally inside one layer of the stack, perhaps "merely" a little incremental improvement -- and does some cutting-edge research and development to see if it works better(*) that way than the previous known-working way in the RepRap stack.<br />
<br />
A second method of improvement is not so obvious: someone gathers up a bunch of cutting-edge developments and confirms that they "play nice with each other" -- alas, occasionally they don't.<br />
<br />
To make both methods easier, we try to design (hopefully) well-structured and well-documented interfaces, so it's easy to pull out any one layer and slide in a (hopefully better) layer.<br />
Hardware interface [[: category:standards |standards ]] such as the [[RepRap Interface Standard]], documentation standards such as the [[Printer Build Instructions Outline]], etc.<br />
We want to make upgrading more like replacing an incandescent light bulb with a fluorescent light bulb, less like replacing the stock engine out of a Volkswagen Beetle with the kind of engine that the winner of the most recent Formula One race used.<br />
<br />
We design little incremental improvements in terms of changing one layer -- or changing 2 layers and the interface between them -- not because anyone ever wants to upgrade only one or two layers and stop there, but because this design method is the fastest way we know of to develop a completely new known-working RepRap stack that is better in every way.<br />
<br />
(*)"Better" in many different ways:<br />
higher precision and bigger build volume,<br />
faster print times,<br />
faster assembly and calibration time by relatively inexperienced potential new RepRap owner,<br />
faster [[World Domination#doubling time |doubling time]],<br />
better interfaces to accelerate future improvements (perhaps by slicing a previously monolithic layer into two layers to make it easier to improve each one independently),<br />
lower net cost to a potential RepRap owner (perhaps by merging two layers to reduce interface costs),<br />
etc.<br />
<br />
See [[Development Pathway]] and [[StyleGuide]] and [[Education#Pedagogical Goals]] for very broad areas of potential improvements, [[ideas to place]] for very specific ideas for improvement.<br />
<br />
==Documentation==<br />
*New user-developers can't do this unless each step has been documented.<br />
*Experienced user-developers would rather research and develop than document. If they are documenting and uploading parts files, which, happily, does happen, then it is unreasonable for them to support other combinations besides their [[Snapshot]]<br />
*Entrepreneur user-developers want to sell one set of Mendel parts, or 50000 sets of electronics, filament, *Mendel vitamins and need RepRap to do documentation and support.<br />
<br />
=Examples=<br />
User 1 uses w0, x0, y0, z0.<br />
User 2 uses w1, x1, y1, z1.<br />
...<br />
User 134533 uses w4, x2, y_not, z5.<br />
<br />
Here is a list of all the layers of a stack.<br />
For convenience, we order the layers in order of data flow through the system.<br />
<br />
For each layer, we ''(fixme: not yet true -- please edit this page to make this true)'' first list the current "known-working" version of that layer (in the RepRap Stack), followed by other alternatives in no particular order.<br />
<br />
==File Source==<br />
[[Scanning]], [[SplineScan]], [[Scanning Spindle]], [[SplineScan Cabinet]], [[SplineScan HandHeld Scanner]], [[RWB/Hand Scanner]], [[RBS]], [[Library]], [[Other Spaces]], [[Useful Software Packages#2D and 3D CAD software|CAD Program]], [[Modeling Program]]<br />
<br />
We archive an easily editable ("source") file in one of many [[File Formats]], sometimes including formulas that document "design intent".<br />
Then, as needed, we "export" the data from that file into a temporary [[STL]] file to feed into the next stage.<br />
<br />
==Committee for Deletionism and Self-Censorship==<br />
[[Committee for Deletionism and Self-Censorship]] is the official Library committee for Deleting other machines or Self-[[Censoring]] parts files and [[RepStraps]] that "might make things too confusing".<br />
== CAM Tools ==<br />
: ''main article: [[RepRap_Options#CAM_Tools]]''<br />
<br />
=== Host software ===<br />
[[Installing RepRap on your computer]],<br />
[[Builders/Alternative host software]]<br />
<br />
===Slicer===<br />
Adrian-Slicer, Povray, Blender?, Rhino<br />
''(Huh? Can you really use POVray as a slicer?)''<br />
<br />
The slicer slices up the 3D model into a series of 2D slices, and does tool path generation for each slice.<br />
It does the conversion between [[STL]] and [[G-code]].<br />
See [[Useful Software Packages#Software for dealing with STL files]] for the latest list.<br />
<br />
===Tool Path Generation===<br />
[[Mendel User Manual: Host Software]] (is this the same as [[DriverSoftware]]?),<br />
[[Skeinforge]]<br />
<br />
==Machine Controller Software==<br />
[[Microcontroller firmware installation]],<br />
[[EMC]], [[Replicator G]]<br />
<br />
==Machine Controller Electronics==<br />
<br />
: ''Main article: [[:Category:Electronics]]''.<br />
<br />
[[UBW32 Blue Banana Electronics]],<br />
[[BitBanger]], [[RoboOne Controller]]<br />
,<br />
[[Vaporware Electronics]]<br />
<br />
==3-Axis Positioning System==<br />
<br />
: ''Main article: [[:Category:DriveTrains]]''.<br />
<br />
See [[Alt Select Mechanics]].<br />
<br />
[[Darwin]], [[Mendel]], [[Builders/LaserCut RepStraps]], [[CNCRouterCut RepStrap]], [[RepOlaRap]], [[Delta]], [[MillStrap]], [[Eiffel]], [[LeCorb]], [[Unnamed PourStrap Named After Architect who Pioneered Prefab Poured Concrete Stuff]] , [[Sarrus Z Linkage]]<br />
, [[Alternative Rails]]<br />
<br />
==Technology==<br />
: ''Main article: [[:Category:Toolheads]]''<br />
[[Extruder]] aka [[Fused Filament Fabrication]], [[:Category:Spindle]], [[Laser Cutter]], [[InkJet]] (perhaps a [[Reprappable-inkjet]]), [[:category:powder|Powder Print]], [[SpoolHead]], [[Vinyl Cutter]]<br />
<br />
In the case of the extruder, this layer can be further sub-divided:<br />
An extruder can be built from the combination of any [[Cold End]] and any [[Hot End]]. <br />
<br />
==Material==<br />
[[epoxy granite]], [[Thermoplastic]], [[:category:powder]],<br />
[[:category:acrylic|acrylic]],<br />
[[:category:aluminum|aluminum]]<br />
<br />
==Finishing==<br />
[[Furnace]], [[Microwave Sintering]], [[Casting/Pewter]], [[High Temperature Metal Casting]] including Bronze Casting, [[Ceramic Kiln]]<br />
[[:Category:Casting]]<br />
<br />
=Table=<br />
All the stuff above could be in a set of autonomous columns. It's a slot machine (or Enigma device) really.<br />
<br />
Note: It will be fun to do this as a 'Slot Machine'-type desktop toy.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community]]<br />
[[Category:Principles]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Vertical_X_Axis_Standard&diff=189100
Vertical X Axis Standard
2021-06-12T20:20:26Z
<p>DavidCary: categorize</p>
<hr />
<div>This is the spot for documentation of the standard configuration for vertical <br />
X axis assemblies. The original discussion about why we want such a thing is [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,95828 here]. (TLDR; It's that big to fit the extruder motor between the X Smooth Rods) If you are a designer of an extruder, X carriage, X axis assembly, or whole bot that works with this standard, consider yourself an editor of this page.<br />
<br />
If you are simply looking for an optimized X-Carraige and the separation of your Z Axis Rods is 30mm and you are using a Bowden setup that doesn't require an extruder motor on your x-carraige you can probably use:<br />
<br />
* RepRapPro Mendel3 X-Carraige (M5 Threaded, 8mm Smooth Rod)<br />
* Prusa i3 X-Carraige (M8 Threaded, 8mm Smooth Rod)<br />
* Prusa i3 Rework X-Carraige (M8 Threaded, 8mm Smooth Rod)<br />
<br />
!! There is a contest going on for those wishing to port existing designs or design new parts that fit the standard!! - Contest over as of Dec 2011<br />
[[Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest]]<br />
<br />
== Benefits ==<br />
<br />
Benefits of a vertical X axis assembly on Mendel style bots include<br />
<br />
1. A vertical x-axis should make head changes and hotend designs easier because the head can slide out unobstructed.<br />
<br />
2. Should use less plastic (print faster) than a horizontal X axis assembly.<br />
<br />
3. Should be stiffer than horizontal X axis configurations given the same amount of plastic. <br />
<br />
4. Naturally lends itself to integrated X carriage/extruder designs as they are now both in the same plane. <br />
<br />
5. ? :)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== The Standard ==<br />
<br />
The currently agreed upon standard is to space the two X smooth rods 70 mm center to center and the Z smooth and threaded rod 30 mm center to center. A diagram below explains the basic constraints. The Z rod spacing is identical to the Prusa and Mendel, so it is likely that X axis assemblies that conform to this standard could be used as replacements in those bots as well. <br />
<br />
[[File:Vertical_X-Axis_standards.jpg|800px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Current standard-compliant projects with Vertical X Axis ==<br />
<br />
Feel free to add your project here if you have a design that is or will soon be compliant.<br />
<br />
*[[X-carriage-struder]] An X axis and integrated carriage/extruder design. To be compatible with Prusa, Mendel, and Orca.<br />
*[[Test_Tube_Mendel]] A minimalist version of the Prusa that eliminates printed vertices using fender washers.<br />
*[[Action68%27s_vertical_x_axis_reprap]] A currently conceptual bot with a vertical X axis<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11535 PCB Mill mount for Vertical X axis by droftarts]<br />
*[[Vertical_x_for_Prusa_by_North90ty]] A complete and very easy to build design for a vertical x-axis<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15132 Vert-X-Belt-Truder] Early concept of a vertical x-carriage with belt-driven extruder (no stepper motor on the carriage).<br />
*[[3DPrintMi]] Open frame style Reprap<br />
*[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:210915 Prism Vertical X axis]<br />
*[[Rusty-Vertical-X]] Another Vertical X carriage, GPL, Circa Oct 2012 [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12434 Thingiverse Link]<br />
<br />
== Other projects with Vertical X Axis ==<br />
<br />
The following projects are not necessarily compliant with this standard. They may choose to work with the standard or not as they see fit. <br />
<br />
*[[Mixtape_mendel]] A Prusa style bot designed to be fully parametric.<br />
*[[1X2]] A Prusa style bot made from standardized blocks of wood. Easily built with hand tools.<br />
*[[RepRapPro_Tricolour]] A Prusa Mendel variant. Design was updated circa March 2013 to include a vertical X axis. Uses 40mm X rod spacing.<br />
*[[EMAKER_Huxley]] A smaller bot, sort of a mixture of the original Huxley, and the Prusa.<br />
*[http://reprap.org/wiki/Gen_X Gen X Skb-Kiparis remix] Based on Mendel. With original idea of vertical x axis and vertical extruder combined with x carriage.<br />
*[[Doboz]]<br />
*[[Wallace]] ~ Parametric: X spacing is set in the scad file by the variable 'x_rod_spacing', default 30. Z spacing is set by a combination of yz_motor_distance, motor_casing, and the rod size, default of (yz_motor_distance+motor_casing)/2+rod_size for a NEMA14/6mm setup is (25+38)/2+6=37.5 <br />
*[[SibRap]] Russian printer, have 55 mm vertical distance.<br />
<br />
[[Category:RepRap machines]]<br />
[[Category: Standards]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Powder_Printer_Recipes&diff=189099
Powder Printer Recipes
2021-06-12T19:05:43Z
<p>DavidCary: link to more general overview articles about this sort of thing</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
<br />
Many of the [[materials]] we would like to make stuff out of are available in bulk as powders.<br />
And so a 3D printer that can deposit powder is potentially more generally useful than many of the other proposed [[Materials/Appropriate Machines]].<br />
<br />
=Recipes for Powder Printers=<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">Many</span><span lang="en-CA"> of the following recipes come from the Open3d blog maintained by </span>the Solheim Rapid Manufacturing Laboratory (located in the Mechanical Engineering Building at the University of Washington in Seattle<span lang="en-CA">. They have been experimenting with various formulations in their powder printers and have several that work and are much cheaper than commercial powders.</span><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">I have shamelessly stolen</span><span lang="en-CA"> most of the text and pictures from that site. My intent is simply to provide all the recipes in a single document that can be downloaded and printed off for experimenters to keep handy. At the moment most of the recipes are from Open3d but I will add any that I find from other sources as time goes on to allow this document to have maximum usefulness.</span><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">'''Important Note'''</span><span lang="en-CA"> - All of the measurements in these recipes are expressed by weight, not by volume.</span><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">'''Important Note'''</span><span lang="en-CA"> – For those of you with commercially built powder printers. I believe that you may void the warranty on your printer if you use anything but the powders provided by your vendor. Read your warranty and be sure you know what you are up to.</span><br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">'''Important Note'''</span><span lang="en-CA"> - </span>If you look at the formulas and their strategy, you will see that they put the adhesive in the powder and the “binder” is, in fact, just a solvent. While each new powder that is attempted in the lab goes through a set of tests for adhesive/binder compatibility, they have had great success with the sugar/malto-dextrin/wheat-dextrin combination. Also, they are VERY low cost -> Bonus! Malto-dextrin/wheat-dextrin '''really''' dissolve well and '''really''' like water (they are considered ''hygroscopic''). Therefore '''be''' '''warned'''<nowiki>: the powder/binder combination produces parts which are </nowiki>'''water soluble'''. In fact, a very small amount of water will cause the part to melt!<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
==Materials==<br />
<br />
;Isopropyl alcohol: Available as Drugstore Brand 91% Isopropyl.<br />
;: '''DO NOT SUBSTITUTE DENATURED ETHANOL''' as it contains various chemicals that end up plugging the print head<br />
<br />
;Maltodextrin: is a polysaccharide that is used as a food additive. It is produced from starch by partial hydrolysis and is usually found as a creamy-white hygroscopic powder. Maltodextrin is easily digestible, being absorbed as rapidly as glucose, and might be either moderately sweet or almost flavorless. It can be purchased in bulk at health food stores where it is sold as a supplement. If you can’t find Maltodextrin, then use Benefiber, which is a wheat dextrin.<br />
<br />
;Methyl cellulose: is actually only one of a huge family of materials called cellulose ethers, all of which are based on molecules made from chemically-altered cellulose. There are many different cellulose ethers available, with a dizzying array of molecular weights, solubilities and characteristics. One of our favorites is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, or sodium cmc – it has greater adhesive properties than methyl cellulose and is almost as stable.<br />
<br />
;Plaster of Paris: There are a fair number of different kinds of plaster of paris – common plaster of paris, #1 Pottery Plaster, Drystone Plaster, Duramold Plaster, GardenCast Plaster, Hydrocal Plaster, Ultracal Plaster, and various Dental Plasters. Each plaster has different properties and each requires experimentation.<br />
<br />
;Polyox™: is a group of water-soluble resins. They are white, free-flowing hydrophilic powders supplied in a wide variety of molecular weight grades, ranging from one hundred thousand to eight million. Polyox has a long history of successful applications in pharmaceutical products, in uses such as controlled release solid dose matrix systems, tablet binding, tablet coatings, transdermal drug delivery systems, and mucosal bioadhesives. PolyOx may serve as a cross-linking agent for SCMC and/or PVA.<br />
<br />
;PVA: is a really vast array of products and modifications of base product. Contact a technical rep for a vendor near you to discuss your application.<br />
<br />
;Urea Formaldehyde (UF) glue: is a urea formaldehyde resin or glue (also commonly called a urea glue or a UF). It is also called “plastic resin glue”. This product is sold as a water soluble wood glue.<br />
<br />
;Versa Cement: add definition<br />
<br />
<!-- <br />
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[#__RefHeading__1_492486980 Recipes for Powder Printers 1]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__3_492486980 Materials 2]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__5_492486980 Wetting Agent Formulas 4]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__7_492486980 XB1 Experimental Binder 4]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__9_492486980 XF1 Experimental Fluid 4]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__11_492486980 XS1 Possible 300 Class Binder 5]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__13_492486980 Z-Corp™ binder fluid 5]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__15_492486980 Powder Formulas 5]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__17_492486980 Porcelain Powder 5]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__19_492486980 RedArt Terra Cotta Slip V1 6]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__21_492486980 RedArt Terra Cotta Slip V2 7]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__23_492486980 3DP Glass Recipe V1 7]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__25_492486980 3DP Glass Recipe V2 8]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__27_492486980 Plaster Based Powder 9]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__29_492486980 Sugar-Sugar Powder 9]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__31_492486980 Plaster Powder V2 10]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__33_492486980 Salt Powder 11]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__35_492486980 Bone Powder 11]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__37_492486980 Z-Corp™ Powder 12]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__39_492486980 Infiltrants 13]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__41_492486980 Cyano-acrylate Glues 13]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__43_492486980 Epoxies 13]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__45_492486980 Shellac 13]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__47_492486980 Plastic Formulas 13]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__49_492486980 Powder Coat 13]<br />
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[#__RefHeading__51_492486980 Casting Formulas 14]<br />
<br />
[#__RefHeading__53_492486980 Metal Casting Powder 14]<br />
<br />
[#__RefHeading__55_492486980 Investment formula 2 15]<br />
--><br />
<br />
==Wetting Agent Formulas==<br />
<br />
===Sake Binder===<br />
<br />
M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle<br />
<br />
Sake Rice Wine, unflavored, uncolored, 15%-20% alcohol.<br />
<br />
Use directly from the bottle.<br />
<br />
===XB1 Experimental Binder===<br />
<br />
M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle<br />
<br />
This is one of the working binders for the lab. It really is a solvent system. The real binder is in the powder and this liquid is just the solvent to activate the binder (the concept was partially developed by B. Utela).<br />
<br />
105 Proof Vodka – 750 ml<br />
<br />
Distilled Water — 1500 ml<br />
<br />
Food Coloring — 60-120 ml (depending on color saturation)<br />
<br />
They found that this binder seems to work with 400 class machines since it employs Cannon bubblejet technology. Bubblejet technology likes very low viscosity inks with low surface tension.<br />
<br />
{This recipe has caused difficulties in the educational sector as administration may have issues with lab purchasing this type of liquid.}<br />
<br />
'''DO NOT SUBSTITUTE DENATURED ETHANOL''' as it contains various chemicals that end up plugging the print head<br />
<br />
===XF1 Experimental Fluid===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/?p=24 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
One of the new working binders for the lab. It really is a solvent system. The real binder is in the powder and this liquid is just the solvent to activate the binder (the concept was partially developed by B. Utela). It was developed to aid the educational users that have difficulty with the Vodka based binder.<br />
<br />
Drugstore Brand 91% Isopropyl – 280 ml<br />
<br />
Distilled Water — 920 ml<br />
<br />
Food Coloring — 45 ml (depending on color saturation)<br />
<br />
They found that this binder seemed to work with 400 class machines since it employs Cannon bubblejet technology. Bubblejet technology likes very low viscosity inks with low surface tension.<br />
<br />
===XS1 Possible 300 Class Binder===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">P</span><span lang="en-CA">osted by Threedeelabs in the DIY 3DP Group </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/message/1317 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
'''<span style="font-weight: normal">Here are details of a new eXperimental Solution which seems to work for 300 class hardware (basically any of the HP head models).</span>'''<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
''<span style="font-style: normal"><u>Binder: Percentage (amount needed for 1 gallon)</u></span>''<br />
<br />
''<span style="font-style: normal">Distilled Water: 93.45% volume (3537 ml)</span>''''<br />''''<span style="font-style: normal">Surfynol 465: 0.5% volume (18.92 ml)</span>''''<br />''''<span style="font-style: normal">Glycerol: 6% volume (227.12 ml)</span>''''<br />''''<span style="font-style: normal">Potassium Sulfate: 0.2% weight (7.5 mg)</span>''''<br />''''<span style="font-style: normal">Proxel GXL: 0.05% volume (1.89 ml)</span>''<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
''<span style="font-style: normal">From information obtained through patents, an HP10 or 11 cartridge needs:</span>''<br />
<br />
''<span style="font-style: normal">Surface tension: 45 dynes/cm</span>''''<br />''''<span style="font-style: normal">Viscosity: 1.35 cps</span>''<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===<span lang="en-CA">Z-Corp</span><span lang="en-CA">™ binder fluid</span>===<br />
<br />
This information comes from the publicly available Material Safety Data Sheet for Z-Corp binder fluid which was posted on the RepRap forum by Gene Hacker. The full document can be located at: <font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://www.tech.plymouth.ac.uk/dmme/cad/rp/zb58.pdf <span lang="en">www.tech.plymouth.ac.uk</span>]</u></font><span lang="en"> . </span>It is provided as-is and would require some experimentation to be usable but it appears to be mostly water and coloring.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
{| width="591" border="1" cellpadding="7"<br />
|- valign="TOP"<br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font color="#0000ff"><font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''Components'''</font></font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''Approximate'''</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''% by weight'''</font></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''C.A.S. No. &'''</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''EINECS No.'''</font></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''UK/EU'''</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''Classification'''</font></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
|- valign="TOP"<br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">1. Glycerol </font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">1-10%</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">56-81-5</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">200-289-5</font></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Irritant Xi</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">S 23 24/25</font></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
|- valign="TOP"<br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">2. Preservative (Sorbic acid salt)</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">0-2%</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Trade Secret</font></font><br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Irritant Xi</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">R 36/37/38, S 26,</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">S 36</font></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
|- valign="TOP"<br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">3. Surfactant</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2"><1%</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Trade Secret</font></font><br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Irritant Xi</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">R 36, S 24, S 26</font></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
|- valign="TOP"<br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">4. Pigment</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2"><20%</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Trade Secret</font></font><br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">R 42/43</font></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
|- valign="TOP"<br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">5. Water</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">85-95%</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">7732-18-5</font></font><br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">NA</font></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
==Powder Formulas==<br />
<br />
===Porcelain Powder===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/?p=12 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
It has weak damp strength, OK green strength, and behaves poorly in the kiln cycle.<br />
<br />
SPS Swan White Porcelain – 1000 units<br />
<br />
Powdered Sugar ———– 250 units<br />
<br />
Maltodextrin ————- 250 units<br />
<br />
They are looking at testing better porcelains.<br />
<br />
<font color="#0000ff">[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/../wp-content/uploads/2009/09/img_4675.jpg [[Image:Recipes%20for%20Powder%20Printers%20March%202011_html_m7664acb4.jpg]]]</font>©M.A. Ganter<br />
<br />
Clear glazed porcelain test piece.<br />
<br />
===RedArt Terra Cotta Slip V1===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/?p=13 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
Terra Cotta slip powder was the second ceramic powder tested. It has OK damp strength, good green strength, and has interesting behavior in the kiln cycle.<br />
<br />
SPS Redart Terracotta Slip – 1000 units<br />
<br />
Powdered Sugar ———– 250 units<br />
<br />
Maltodextrin ————- 250 units<br />
<br />
We like the nature of Terra Cotta as it changes color and strength depending on how high you fire it.<br />
<br />
<font color="#0000ff">[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/../wp-content/uploads/2009/09/p1000935-026.jpg [[Image:Recipes%20for%20Powder%20Printers%20March%202011_html_47edf2b1.jpg]]]</font>©M.A.Ganter<br />
<br />
Terra Cotta test firings. Notice that there is more shrinkage and the color gets darker as temperature goes up.<br />
<br />
===RedArt Terra Cotta Slip V2===<br />
<br />
''<span style="font-style: normal">From an article in Ceramics Monthly, </span>''''<span style="font-style: normal"><u>The Printed Pot</u></span>''''<span style="font-style: normal"> by Mark Ganter, Duane Storti and Ben Utela, University of Washington, Department of Mechanical Engineering in Seattle, Washington.</span>''<br />
<br />
Xtra-White, Redart TerraCotta or Stoneware Buff Slip . . . 62.50 % (1000 units)<br />Sugar (extra fine) . . . . . . . 31.25 % (500 units)<br />PVA (PolyVinyl Alcohol). . . .6.25 % (100 units)<br />
<br />
===<span lang="en-CA">3DP Glass Recipe</span><span lang="en-CA"> V1</span>===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/?p=27 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
This is a workable glass powder that is very inexpensive and is environmentally friendly because it uses recycled glass. It was the first glass powder tested in the lab. It has weak damp strength, OK green strength, and OK behavior in the kiln cycle.<br />
<br />
SPS Powdered Recycled Glass – 1000 units<br />
<br />
Powdered Sugar ———– 250 units<br />
<br />
Maltodextrin ————- 250 units<br />
<br />
If you can’t find Maltodextrin, then use Benefiber (it is no longer maltodextrin but rather a wheat dextrin).<br />
<br />
Use either binder. Let the part dry (in the bed) overnight and bake at 175 F for one hour. Then kiln fire to the desired crispyness.<br />
<br />
<font color="#0000ff">[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/p1000044.jpg [[Image:Recipes%20for%20Powder%20Printers%20March%202011_html_m3520b544.jpg]]]</font>©M.A.Ganter<br />
<br />
''3DP glass test bars''<br />
<br />
This glass works very well for the 3DP process. The only issue that I have with it is the resulting color. The strength is fine.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===3DP Glass Recipe V2===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/?p=65 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
An improved glass powder is composed of better quality glass (i.e. Spectrum Glass). This is the second major glass powder tested in the lab. It has ok damp strength, good green strength, and OK behavior in the kiln cycle.<br />
<br />
<br />Spectrum Powdered Glass – 1000 units<br />Powdered Sugar ———– 90-100 units<br />Maltodextrin ————- 90-100 units<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br />
The Spectrum Glass is available in cullet form (pieces of broken glass) which then must be crushed/powdered to better than 400 mesh. We had Olympic Color Rod perform this task.<br />
<br />
Use either binder. You need to run as low of binder settings as you can for this glass recipe. Let the part dry (in the bed) overnight and bake at 175 F for one hour. Then kiln fire to the desired crispyness.<br />
<br />
The resulting parts are opaque white.<br />
<br />
<font color="#0000ff">[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/3whitesw.jpg [[Image:Recipes%20for%20Powder%20Printers%20March%202011_html_m555ea00d.jpg]]]</font><br />
<br />
©M.A.Ganter - Three white 3DP glass SW pots<br />
<br />
<br /><br /><br />
<br />
===Plaster Based Powder===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/?p=30 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
This recipe has been in user for years. The recipe is rather complicated. It was developed over a period of two years. It has ok damp strength, good green strength, and is quite strong after baking in the convection oven. When finished, one might infiltrate with CA glue, or thin epoxy, or wax/parafin.<br />
<br />
Plaster of Paris – 1000 units<br />
<br />
4X Sugar (ultra-fine) – 500 units<br />
<br />
Powdered Sugar – 500 units<br />
<br />
Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA/PVoH) – 100 units<br />
<br />
Sodium CarboxyMethylCellulose (SCMC) – 100 units<br />
<br />
Polyox – 50 units<br />
<br />
===Sugar-Sugar Powder===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle</span><span lang="en-CA"> </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/?p=31 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
It seems that everyone wants to print in '''THE''' cheapest material possible. If this powder is not the cheapest, it is clearly in the running. They ran this powder for 6 solid months to support their educational activities.<br />
<br />
White Satin Baker’s Special Sugar – 200 units<br />
<br />
Powdered Sugar (10x or 12x) – 100 units<br />
<br />
These sugar products are produced by The Amalgamated Sugar Co./Snake River Sugar Co. out of beet sugars. The White Satin is a tri-modal sugar with screenings in 50, 100, and 140 mesh. 10x or 12x powdered sugar always has some corn starch added to stop clumping. If you can get 12x, it is the better choice. All of these products are available in 50 lbs plastic bags. The cost of this mix is $0.15 – $0.30 per pound!<br />
<br />
The nice thing about parts produced using this powder is that you can use them for investment casting/lost wax casting by infusing them with wax.<br />
<br />
Helpful Tip: keep your machine clean using this mix as things could get sticky!<br />
<br />
==== Variant: Sugar-Meringue Powder ====<br />
<br />
* Granulated sugar: 50 units<br />
* Wilton's Meringue Powder: 1 units<br />
* 10-X Powdered Sugar: 8 units<br />
<br />
In this recipe, meringue powder (basically dehydrated egg whites) is used as the bonding agent for the sugar crystals.<br />
<br />
Although this recipe works with granulated sugar, you can get better resolution with finer sugar grinds. With granulated sugar, a layer height of 0.3mm is recommended. Running the mix through a household food processor for 60 seconds gets a grain size that permits 0.2mm layer height.<br />
<br />
Requires a 'in bed' curing time of approximately 8 hours.<br />
<br />
Originally from [http://www.evillabs.net/wiki/index.php/ZCorp_Z310%2B EvilLabs ZCorp Z310+ Hacks]<br />
<br />
===Plaster Powder V2===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2010/06/plaster-powder-v2-version-2/ <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
We’ve have been using this plaster based replacement powder over the last two years. The recipe is simpler and more available than our previous plaster recipe. It was developed over a period of about one year. It has ok damp strength, good green strength, and is quite strong after baking in the convection oven (with a temperature between ''warm'' and ''defrost''). When finished, one might infiltrate with CA glue, or thin epoxy, or wax/paraffin.<br />
<br />
DAP Plaster of Paris 1000 units<br />
<br />
Powdered Sugar 250 units<br />
<br />
Maltodextrin 250 units<br />
<br />
If you can’t find Maltodextrin, then use Benefiber (it is no longer maltodextrin but rather a wheat dextrin). Also, you might try experimenting with replacing the sugar 1:1 with Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA/PVoH). PVA is much more expensive than powdered sugar but there are some advantages.<br />
<br />
PVA is a really vast array of products and modifications of base product. Contact a technical rep for a vendor near you to discuss your application.<br />
<br />
There are a fair number of different kinds of plaster of paris – common plaster of paris, #1 Pottery Plaster, Drystone Plaster, Duramold Plaster, GardenCast Plaster, Hydrocal Plaster, Ultracal Plaster, and various Dental Plasters. Each plaster has different properties and each requires experimentation. '''We have been using DAP Plaster of Paris '''(especially because it is readily available for a reasonable cost)'''.'''<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===Salt Powder===<br />
<br />
Mark Ganter, Adele Klee, Zack Chan<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
The salt was first ground in a coffee grinder and sifted through 60, 100 and 120 mesh screens. Once they got the salt to something that looked like white dust. They screened the batch through 150 mesh screen. The salt powder mix spread '''extremely well''', and produced''' the best surface finish''' on the printing-bed surface that we have ever seen. Several adjustments to layer thickness and saturation settings, and amazing parts appeared. They used one of their existing binder solutions.<br />
<br />
Finely Powdered Salt — 8 parts by weight<br />
<br />
Maltodextrin — 1 part by weight<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===Bone Powder===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, </span>Juliana Meira do Valle, Michael Storey<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2011/03/bone-yard-3dp-in-bone/comment-page-1/#comment-11299 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
This formula was created by two of Mark Ganter’s students who wanted to be able to print bones for fictional animals.<br />
<br />
Powdered Bone Meal 4-5 parts by weight.<br />
<br />
<br />UF plastic resin glue 1 part by weight.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<font color="#0000ff">[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Juliana-Meira-Do-Valle_LR-Bones.jpg [[Image:Recipes%20for%20Powder%20Printers%20March%202011_html_m2c360a58.jpg]]]</font><br />
<br />
2010 J. Meira Do Valle - Bones in Bone (photo Laura West @ 2010)<br />
<br />
===Z-Corp™ Powder===<br />
<br />
This information comes from the publicly available Material Safety Data Sheet for Z-Corp printing powder which was posted on the RepRap forum by Gene Hacker. The full document can be located at: <font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://www.tech.plymouth.ac.uk/dmme/cad/rp/zp130.pdf <span lang="en">www.tech.plymouth.ac.uk</span>]</u></font><span lang="en">. </span>It is provided as-is and would require experimentation with the mixture to be usable.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
{| width="591" border="1" cellpadding="7"<br />
|- valign="TOP"<br />
| width="133" height="9" |<br />
<font color="#0000ff"><font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''Component Classified As'''</font></font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#0000ff"><font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''Dangerous (CHIP3)'''</font></font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font color="#000000"><font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''Approximate % by'''</font></font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''weight'''</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''C.A.S. No. &'''</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''EINECS No.'''</font></font><br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''UK/EU'''</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">'''Classification'''</font></font><br />
|- valign="TOP"<br />
| width="133" height="10" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">1. Plaster which contains</font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="#000000"><font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Crystalline Silica</font></font></font><font color="#000000"><font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="1"><font size="6pt">1 </font></font></font></font><font color="#000000"><font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">at <1%</font></font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">50-95%</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Trade Secret</font></font><br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">None</font></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
|- valign="TOP"<br />
| width="133" height="10" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">2. Vinyl Polymer</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">2-20%</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Trade Secret</font></font><br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Irritant Xi</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">R 36/37/38</font></font><br />
|- valign="TOP"<br />
| width="133" height="9" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">3. Sulfate Salt</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">0-5%</font></font><br />
| width="134" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">Trade Secret</font></font><br />
| width="133" |<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">S22</font></font><br />
<br />
<font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font size="2">S24/25</font></font><br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
Gene’s comment: “<span lang="en">Sulfate salt is probably Calcium Sulfate. Vinyl polymer is probably polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl acetate, which are substances used in glues.”</span><br />
<br />
==Infiltrants==<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===Cyano-acrylate Glues===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/?p=456 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">CA or cyano-acrylate glues can be purchased in bulk. The resulting part is very strong and can be sanded and finished using any other common finish. Several big issues with CA are the smell (and chemical out-gassing), and the fact that it glues flesh to flesh very well. Therefore: </span><span lang="en-CA"><u>'''Always use CA glues in properly ventilated areas and always wear gloves and eye protection.'''</u></span><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===Epoxies===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/?p=456 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
''Water-thin or penetrating epoxies'' are also a very good choice for high strength. Sometimes these epoxies are known as ''epoxy sealers''. There are multiple vendors for this line of products. <font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://www.epoxyproducts.com/penetrating4u.html One web site]</u></font> had done testing and includes general recipes to make your own (a very Open idea which we like!). Note: there are chemical hazard issues with these products. '''<u>Therefore: always use epoxies in properly ventilated areas and always wear gloves and eye protection.</u>'''<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
==='''<span style="font-weight: normal">Shellac</span>'''===<br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/?p=456 <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
Shellacs are generally an organic resin dissolved in an alcohol solution. They are a very old wood finish. Please check out the <font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellac Wikipedia listing for Shellac]</u></font>. We like this product because it is very thin and it contains the same solvents as our binders ->alcohols. A variety of colors and concentrations exist for Shellac (as well as additional colorants). We transferred shellac out of the can into a glue/squirt bottle and applied by the drizzle technique. We found that a thin first coat which may or may not be followed by a second coat. A low temperature bake is suggested (150F). Cool after baking. Sand and finish as desired.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
==Plastic Formulas==<br />
<br />
===Powder Coat===<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">Several people are looking at building powder printers that would use a laser to </span><span lang="en-CA">selectively sinter plastic powder to build objects and there has been a bit of discussion around what to use as a medium. One source suggested that the fine plastic powders used in powder coating metal parts might work. It is a very fine powder, comes in many colors and is heat cured. Note – I am aware of some people working on this but I don’t have any published information yet. I just wanted to get it documented as a place-saver so it wasn’t forgotten. Update – I have been informed sintering that this powder results in very brittle parts. Might need to add some other material to the mix in order to use it as described above.</span><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
==Casting Formulas==<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===Metal Casting Powder===<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<span lang="en-CA">M.A. Ganter and Laura West, University of Washington, Seattle </span><font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2010/10/cementenous-metalcasting-formula/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=cementenous-metalcasting-formula <span lang="en-CA">Original Article</span>]</u></font><br />
<br />
1000 parts Versa Cement<br />250 parts Maltodextrin<br />250 parts PVA powder<br />
<br />
This formula also works well for sculptural forms and has the advantage of not needing any infiltration for strength.<br />
<br />
These molds should be approached much like sand molds. They will have similar surfaces and strengths, you will also need to think of venting them in a similar way. For smaller molds, you should not let the thickness get less than 1/2″ and for larger molds you should increase it to 1″ or more. You will either need to build them as open face molds or as 2 part molds to get the powder out of the center. As time goes I will post more mold making tips on either on the <font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/ open3dp]</u></font> blog or on <font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://rpsculpt.wordpress.com/ rpsculpt ]</u></font>. (this site is dedicated to the sculpture side of additive manufacturing as well as its use in metal casting, it is relatively new).<br />
<br />
You will find that you need to print adjust your powder setting to be fairly wet, but not so wet that the part pulls away from its surroundings. The first few layers may tend to slide, so you should orient your part to account for that (put the bottom of your mold on the bottom of the build) and put it at least 1/4″ up into the build. Placing a few test bars below your build is also a good idea. Creating your patterns on a textured build plate also seems to help. You may find that you need to adjust the anisotropic scaling on x-plane in your print program, which is easy enough to do. Baking the mold on warm (do not go above 125 degrees F or the sugars will start melting) will help with de-powdering. If you spray your mold with a light misting of alcohol, the form will strengthen significantly. This will make the surface of the print hard enough to file your nails – seriously I have filed several broken nails in the lab with this material!<br />
<br />
For a finer surface on your cast you may want to paint or spray a thin layer of mold wash on the surface. You can buy a commercially available recipe (Porter Warner) or you can create a mixture 50/50% zircon flour and graphite stirred into either alc0hol or naptha. Fused silica flour can also work as part of the recipe. A mold wash, depending on the pattern, can allow for a second pour if it is an open face mold. If you have a two part mold, you will need to join the two sides. Any 5 minute epoxy will work for small molds. For larger molds you should use a professional grade core paste and/or mold weights/metal clamps to hold the mold together.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===<span lang="en-CA">Investment formula </span><span lang="en-CA">2</span>===<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
NOTE – this is not really a formula yet. This is an article that contains enough information that someone should be able to create a formula from it. Hopefully, after some experimentation this can become the first free investment casting formula for DIY powder printers. The original article is by Richard Beckman at the <font color="#0000ff"><u>[http://www.chicagoartistsresource.org/node/9297 Chicago Artists Resource]</u></font>.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
When casting bronze using the lost-wax process, the hazards of silicosis can greatly be reduced by using a standard investment recipe of plaster and 30 mesh sand. Commercial investments use a mixture of plaster and cristobalite, which is even more toxic than normal quartz silica. The particles in the 30 mesh sand used in the following recipe are too large to be airborne, and thus have a much lower chance of being inhaled.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
Though there are many variations of the ratio between the sand and the plaster, the formula that I have successfully used combines one part plaster with one part sand by weight. Since plaster and sand are commonly packaged in 100 pound bags, it is easiest to premix one bag of each in a large tin washtub and then add this mixture to your water.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
To arrive roughly at a 5-gallon bucket of investment, fill the bucket with 1.5 to 2 gallons of water, and add the premixed investment until an island forms whose surface area is two-thirds the diameter of the bucket. Let this slake for a few minutes, and then mix by hand from the bottom of the bucket, carefully avoiding stirring air into the mix. Work out all the lumps with your fingers and then pour the investment into your flask. The investment consistency should be creamy and thick enough to coat your skin when you pull your hands out of the bucket of mixed investment, but not allow your flesh tone to show through. It should be thin enough that, when pouring the investment, it easily flows into all the crevices of your wax.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
The use of 30 mesh sand will in no way bring down the quality of surface reproduction as the plaster will flow around the grain size and give you the exact detail that was in your original wax. As with all investments, whether commercial or described here, some extra precautions should be taken to assure that no air bubbles are trapped against the surface of the wax, which will translate into surface imperfections once cast in bronze.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
To begin, you should spray a debubbler, such as alcohol, on the surface of your wax to relieve surface tension. If your wax was pulled from a rubber mold and you used a silicone release agent, be sure to wash the wax with liquid soap and water to assure that the silicone does not resist your debubbling agent.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
Next, you should mix a small batch of investment and brush it on the wax. Using a brush assures that you can force it into all of the details of your wax and therefore avoid any air bubbles. If you have super fine detail, you might consider using 80 or 100 mesh sand for this first coat. In my experience, however, the 30 mesh sand is sufficient to reproduce fingerprints, so I see no need to risk breathing the finer sand particles. Build this brushed coat 1/2" inch thick and leave it rough so that the poured investment will grab onto it. Mix your investment and float your brushed wax piece in your flask. Pour your investment around it, bringing it level to the pouring cup.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
A few final notes are worth mentioning to assure your casting will come out with minimal or no flashing. Use chicken wire to line the inside of your flask to keep your mold from radically shifting if cracks do develop. I use sheet tin for making my flasks since it is both strong and reusable, naturally assumes a round or oval shape, and thus has no sharp edges or lap marks, which are natural places for cracks to occur. During the burn-out, bring the temperature up 50-75 degrees an hour to 1100°F, and hold for 24-36 hours. It is critical that this process is slow to avoid shocking the molds. Finally, when taking the molds out of the kiln, open the doors slowly over an extended period of time so there is no thermal shock.<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
Using this standard investment recipe and the other steps I have noted will greatly reduce your risk of silicosis and will result in excellent surface reproduction in the casting. Though I have never cast jewelry, the process is essentially the same and I imagine this investment recipe would be more than adequate.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Powder]]<br />
[[Category:Theory & Research]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Hot_End_Design_Theory&diff=189098
Hot End Design Theory
2021-06-12T18:31:51Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>The hot end is arguably the most complex aspect of 3d printers as it deals with the tricky business of melting and extruding plastic filament. To understand the design features of hot ends, you must have a basic knowledge of the thermal properties of thermoplastics, specifically the way they behave at their glass transition temperature (Tg). <br />
<br />
The [[hot end]] and the [[Cold End]] together make up the [[extruder]].<br />
<br />
=== Glass Transition Temperature (Tg) ===<br />
At temperatures below Tg, thermoplastics retain their hard, solid consistency (as we see in plastic filament). As the temp rises above the Tg of the thermoplastic, its consistency changes from solid to rubbery and it begins to expand. <br />
<br />
=== Melting Temperature (Tm) ===<br />
If you continue to increase the temperature, the filament will eventually hit its melting temperature (Tm). At the melting temperature, the plastic becomes a liquid. Once the plastic is in the liquid phase, it can be extruded.<br />
<br />
=== The Critical Transition Phase ===<br />
The transition phase between the Tg and Tm temperatures is the most critical point of the extrusion process. Just before hitting the liquid phase, the consistency of the filament is rubbery.<br />
<br />
In this rubbery transition state, the plastic will expand and grip the inside of the hot end and will resist extrusion/retraction and thus increase the likelihood of the hot end jamming. As a result, the hot end developer makes an effort to mitigate this problem by reducing the area that the rubbery plastic can grip and cause jams (by shortening the transition zone), and by reducing the friction between the rubbery plastic and the interior walls of the hot end (by polishing the internal pathway within the hot end). This rubbery filament problem is more apparent when extruding PLA which has a very low Tg (about 60&nbsp;&deg;C).<br />
<br />
== RESEARCH ==<br />
<br />
=== Temperature vs extrusion speed ===<br />
<br />
Willy has done a number of interesting measurement series: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?252,217620 . He adjusted his extruder to loose steps at some specific torque, then he tested how fast he could extrude at different temperatures. The result is, the hotter the heater is, the faster one can extrude (not surprising) and also, that this relation is pretty much linear (a bit unexpected) over the entire 170&nbsp;&deg;C to 260&nbsp;&deg;C range tested on a piece of PLA.<br />
<br />
To sum up this work in one equation:<br />
<br />
<!-- See talk page for discussion of these 2 versions of this formula --><br />
<br />
<math>V_{max} = k(T_{HotEnd}-T_{softening})</math><br />
<br />
V<sub>max</sub> = k (T<sub>HotEnd</sub> - T<sub>softening</sub>)<br />
<br />
Where<br />
* V<sub>max</sub> is the maximum velocity achievable by a given extruder. (aka, nozzle pressure for the max torque the extruder motor can handle)<br />
* T<sub>HotEnd</sub> is the temperature of the hot end. Note that the filament temperature is somewhat lower than this, especially in the center.<br />
* T<sub>softening</sub> is the softening temperature of the filament. This is the lowest temperature at which it is possible to extrude; around 153&nbsp;&deg;C for PLA. This should be approximately equal to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vicat_softening_point Vicat softening point].<br />
* k is some empirically determined constant. It is a property of the extruder. In theory, k should scale with both nozzle area (aka, Pi*R^2) and the torque the motor can produce. More efficient hot ends should also contribute to a higher k, since the filament temperature should be closer to T<sub>HotEnd</sub>.<br />
<br />
It would be interesting to conduct these sorts of tests for different nozzle diameters and filament sizes. Thinner filament should heat more quickly, allowing it to be extruded more rapidly. Smaller nozzle apertures would create higher back pressure, limiting extrusion speed.<br />
<br />
<br />
One researcher speculates that:<br />
Perhaps the ABS in this experiment isn't really getting heated up all the way to 260&nbsp;&deg;C.<br />
Perhaps the thermistor is measuring 260&nbsp;&deg;C at one point, but the rapid injection of cold ABS plastic is keeping the actual temperature of the ABS plastic at the tip at some lower temperature, creating a strong temperature gradient. (Assuming a constant thermal resistance, the amount of heat energy per second flowing down that temperature gradient is proportional to the difference in temperatures).<br />
<br />
=== ideal hot end ===<br />
<br />
What *should* happen in the extruder, independent of how this is mechanically implemented?<br />
<br />
==== shape ====<br />
Is there an optimum shape inside the nozzle to transition from the input feedstock to the output filament?<br />
In other words:<br />
Is it better to have a blunt, sharp transition,<br />
or is it better to have a very gradual taper<br />
from the 3 mm or 1.75 mm feedstock as it comes from [[Printing Material Suppliers]],<br />
to the output [[filament]] exiting a hole typically 0.5 mm diameter?<br />
<br />
==== thermal conductivity ====<br />
What [[Thermal Conductivity]] does the hot end really need to have?<br />
Researchers initially thought that the hot end<br />
needed to have a high thermal conductivity --<br />
so the first RepRap, [[Darwin]], used lots of<br />
109&nbsp;W/(m*K) brass in the hot end.<br />
More recent researchers seem to think lower thermal conductivity<br />
would be better --<br />
16&nbsp;W/(m*K) stainless steel in the [[Strong Nozzle]],<br />
1&nbsp;W/(m*K) [[Glass Nozzles]],<br />
etc.<br />
<br />
== Multi-input extruders ==<br />
: ''main article: [[adding more extruders]]''<br />
<br />
Most 3d printers have only a single input for raw material.<br />
What extra design considerations are relevant to multi-input 3d printer?<br />
<br />
What extra design considerations are relevant to the various kinds of multi-input systems:<br />
* single material type (with more-or-less the same melting and transition temperatures) in multiple colors: [[multicolor-extruder]]; [[RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/RepRap Media Timeline]]; [[:Category: Diamond Hotend]]; [[Repetier Color Mixing]]; etc.<br />
<br />
* multiple material types (with different transition and melting temperatures): [[RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/Software/Parts/Dual Extruder]]; etc.<br />
** support material (with different transition and melting temperatures from the desired material): [[Support Extruder]]; [[HIPS]]; [[Limonene]]; etc.<br />
** different materials (with different transition and melting temperatures) that all end up in the final part: so "something like swimming goggles (lens, rubber, and hard plastic) can be printed without stopping the print." -- [[RUG/Pennsylvania/State College/RepRap Media Timeline]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Further reading ==<br />
<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?70,88930 RepRap forums: "What would be the ideal (theoretical) hotend?"]''<br />
<br />
* [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.ie/2009/03/rheology.html]<br />
<br />
* [[Hot End Comparison]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Hot End]]<br />
<br />
[[category: reference]]<br />
[[category: principles]]<br />
[[category: Theory & Research]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Hot End]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RepRap_Interface_Standard&diff=189097
RepRap Interface Standard
2021-06-12T17:31:24Z
<p>DavidCary: linkify</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
'''RepRap Interface Standard''' defines interfaces between the various components of a printer. Like an interface between carriage and extruder, between extruder and hotend, between bed base and heated bed and so on. Effectively we have such standard interfaces already, but they're neither discussed nor defined.<br />
<br />
With interfaces defined, components become exchangeable. If an extruder complies with extruder-hotend interface standard and a hotend does as well, a user can rely on both of them fitting and working together. No longer guessing by blurred pictures or even buying many versions just to find one that fits.<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?2,338012 Discussion Thread in the RepRap forum]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Intentions==<br />
<br />
* Easily port new features implemented in one printer to another printer.<br />
* Ease the enhancement of printers by changing only one module and not having to invent/build/maintain a new printer thereby lowering the entry bar for new developers.<br />
* Not to invent new interfaces, instead document those interfaces that are commonly used.<br />
* Standard interfaces come with a price. So 100% compatible is not as important as new functionality. If a module needs to break the interface then that should be clearly stated. Best possible compatibility is still the target.<br />
<br />
==Definitions==<br />
<br />
A complete printer consists of a combination of modules. Each module has a different responsibility. All together let the printer work correctly.<br />
<br />
A Module might have sub modules. This allows for more variation. Several types of sub modules may be available. They all must be able to work with their main module. <br />
<br />
If modules or sub modules do not comply to all the stated requirements, or if they require more from the other modules in the printer then defined here then these modules must be declared as not fully compatible. The additional requirements or the not met requirements must be stated. Otherwise the module may not be declared to be fully or partly compatible to this standard.<br />
<br />
<br />
== RIS 1 ==<br />
<br />
'''Controller Feature Set'''<br />
<br />
The electronic module provides the home for the firmware that drived the printer. CPU and Motor driver ICs are part of the electronics package. RIS 1 defines just the feature set. Not part of this definition is, wether electronics is singe-board or distributed to several boards.<br />
<br />
==== Required Features ====<br />
<br />
# Power supply for all other modules.<br />
# Support for at least 4 (four) stepper motors.<br />
# Support for at least 3 (three) endstops compliant with [[#RIS 2]].<br />
# Connectors and support for 1 (one) thermistor-type temperature sensor.<br />
# Connectors and support for 1 (one) heating element of at least 60&nbsp;watts.<br />
# A description to which interface standards connected devices should comply to.<br />
<br />
This defines wether a controller has sufficient features to drive a particular printer. It does not define wether your electronics runs at 3.3&nbsp;V or 5&nbsp;V and also not wether heaters and stepper motors run at 12&nbsp;V, 24&nbsp;V or some other voltage, so distinct controllers complying with this standard may require different devices to be connected to them.<br />
<br />
==== Optional Features ====<br />
<br />
These are often found on existing electronics, but not required to comply with RIS 1:<br />
<br />
* connectors for Fans (optional)<br />
* UART/RS232 Serial Interface (optional)<br />
* USB interface to controlling PC. (optional)<br />
* SD Card Slot for printing without PC.(optional)<br />
<br />
== RIS 1a ==<br />
<br />
'''Controller Feature Set with Heated Bed Support'''<br />
<br />
==== Required Features ====<br />
<br />
# All of [[#RIS 1]].<br />
# Additionally connectors and support for a second thermistor-type temperature sensor.<br />
# Additionally connectors and support for a second heating element of at least 180&nbsp;watts.<br />
<br />
== RIS 2 ==<br />
<br />
'''Endstop Electronics Interface'''<br />
<br />
An endstop is a sensor making the controlling electronics aware that a mechanical carriage has reached a specified position. On engagement, signal voltage changes from Low to High or from High to Low. Typically they're used to find a carriages' home position.<br />
<br />
==== Electronic Properties ====<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! || Supply Voltage V<sub>CC</sub> || Signal Voltage V<sub>S</sub> Low || Signal Voltage V<sub>S</sub> High<br />
|-<br />
| RIS 2 / 5V || 5.0&nbsp;±0.5&nbsp;V || <&nbsp;1.0&nbsp;V || 3.0&nbsp;V ... 5.5&nbsp;V<br />
|-<br />
| RIS 2 / 3.3V || 3.3&nbsp;±0.3&nbsp;V || <&nbsp;1.0&nbsp;V || 2.3&nbsp;V ... 3.6&nbsp;V<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==== Connector ====<br />
<br />
The header for the connector has 3 male electrical pins, spaced at 2.54&nbsp;mm. A latch makes sure the connector is inserted the right way. The header is a Molex KK100 or compatible (very common in electronics stores).<br />
<br />
Pinout:<br />
<br />
+---+ latch +---+<br />
| |<br />
| Vs | GND | Vcc |<br />
+-----------------+<br />
<br />
This pinout matches [[RAMPS]], [[Generation 7 Electronics]] and others.<br />
<br />
This pinout do NOT match [[Sanguinololu]] Rev. 1.3a.<br />
<br />
== RIS 3 Endstop Mechanical Interface ==<br />
<br />
====Mechanical Properties====<br />
<br />
(insert drawing showing two holes 3.3mm dia., 19mm apart (matches the commonly used TCST2103), a board about 50mm x 25mm around it and direction and approximate position of engagement. Showing the board defines the ''maximum'' space allowed to be occupied by an endstop, being it an opto or a mechanical endstop)<br />
<br />
==TBD==<br />
(TBD = "to be defined")<br />
<br />
Here below things to consider, but not worked out, yet.<br />
<br />
===[[Motor_Shield_Standard]]===<br />
<br />
External motor shields of the A4988 and DRV8825 form factor. <br /><br />
To define the benefits and drawbacks versus motor drivers on the main PCB board. <br /><br />
To provide a blank template for ''new development''. <br /><br />
<br /><br />
Other motor shields, of different form factor<br />
<br /><br />
===temperature sensor - heated bed===<br />
The temperature sensor for a heated bed must fit into the holding mechanism defined in the heated bed module.<br />
The temperature sensor must either create a voltage that represents the temperature in a range of 0-3.3V or 0-5V depending on the supplied Voltage. A pt1000 would be an example for such a sensor.<br />
<br />
: Nope. A PT1000 is a resistor and doesn't deliver any kind of voltage. --[[User:Traumflug|Traumflug]] ([[User talk:Traumflug|talk]]) 02:57, 15 April 2014 (PDT)<br />
<br />
: What I wanted to say is that the sensor creates a Signal as a voltagelvel for an ADC. Voltage delivering in the sense of power supply was not what I wanted to say. Do you have a better wording?--[[User:JustAnotherOne|JustAnotherOne]] ([[User talk:JustAnotherOne|talk]]) 06:55, 15 April 2014 (PDT)<br />
<br />
===temperature sensor - extruder===<br />
The temperature sensor for a extruder must fit into the holding mechanism defined in the print head module.<br />
The temperature sensor must either create a voltage that represents the temperatur in a range of 0-3.3V or 0-5V depending on the supplied Voltage. A pt1000 would be an example for such a sensor.<br />
<br />
===heating element - heated bed===<br />
The heater for a heated bed must fit into the holding mechanism defined in the heated bed module.<br />
The heater must be able to withstand a voltage of up to 24V.<br />
<br />
===heating element - extruder===<br />
The heater for a extruder must fit into the holding mechanism defined in the print head module.<br />
The heater must be able to withstand a voltage of up to 24V.<br />
<br />
==RIS 1: Print head==<br />
This Module transforms the raw material(PLA, ABS,..) so that is can be deposited on the printbed to from the print. If the intention is not to create a 3d printer but a CNC mill then the milling head will be a print head module.<br />
<br />
===mechanical interface===<br />
* [[Groove Mount]]<br />
<br />
This is a standard for many Hot end designs such as the Jhead. 4.64 mm wide with an OD of 12mm, using 5/8" stock<br />
<br />
[[File:Jhn_nozzle_holder_v1.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==RIS 1: (Heated)Printbed==<br />
The print bed is the platform that the printer uses to create the print on. <br />
<br />
===mechanical interface===<br />
For a Cartesian bot like a mendel-derivative, the standard is the [[PCB Heatbed|Prusa PCb Heatbed]]. <br />
<br />
PCB Heatbed MK1 is developed by [[User:Prusajr | Josef Průša]]<br />
<br />
* 200 mm x 200 mm active heated area<br />
* 209 mm center-to-center mounting holes (outside the active area). The holes are M3, usually using standoffs to mount to the Y carraige, such as you would use when attaching a motherboard to a PC case.<br />
* 214 mm x 214 mm total PCB size<br />
<br />
<br />
==RIS 1: Mechanic==<br />
The big parts of the printer that allow the print head to move in 3 dimensions relative to the printbed.<br />
<br />
===mechanical interface===<br />
so that the others can be mounted into it?<br />
<br />
===electrical interface===<br />
* (Stepper) Motors <br />
<br />
== Existing Modules ==<br />
<br />
In this section all existing Modules can be listed.<br />
<br />
===Electronics===<br />
* [[RAMPS]]<br />
* [[Sanguinololu]]<br />
* [[Generation 7 Electronics]]<br />
* [[Smoothieboard]]<br />
* [[SinapTec]]<br />
<br />
===Extruder===<br />
* [[Jhead]]<br />
===(Heated)Printbed===<br />
* [[PCB Heatbed|Prusa PCb Heatbed]]<br />
===Mechanic===<br />
<br />
== Pages yet to join into here ==<br />
<br />
* [[Groove Mount]]<br />
* [[Combinatorics Problem]] suggests that, in general, having standard interfaces between "layers" of a stack can help accelerate the rate of improvements.<br />
* [[File Formats]] lists many more-or-less standard file formats used in the RepRap toolchain.<br />
* [[Vertical X Axis Standard]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:RepRap Interface Standard| ]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics| ]]<br />
[[Category:RepRap machines| ]]<br />
[[Category:Standards]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Category:Hot_End&diff=189096
Category:Hot End
2021-06-12T16:14:32Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related article</p>
<hr />
<div>The parts of the [[extruder]] that get hot enough to melt plastic, or potentially other materials. As opposed the [[Cold End|cold end]], which is generally made from printed [[thermoplastic]] that needs to stay cool or it will melt / deform. Hot end parts use materials that can stand up to ~240 C heat (for current thermoplastic extrusion). The hot end usually refers to the tip of the extruder as it should be hottest there. <br />
<br />
For a list of comparing hotends see [[Hot End Comparison]].<br />
<br />
For general theory useful for people creating improved hot ends, see [[Hot End Design Theory]].<br />
<br />
[[Category:Extruders]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Category:Extruders&diff=189095
Category:Extruders
2021-06-12T15:59:29Z
<p>DavidCary: link to article that goes into more detail on the subtopic</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|:Category:Extruders}}<br />
<br />
[[File:extruder_lemio.svg|thumb|right|alt=The extruder with all parts named|This is a 'standard' (wade's like) extruder with all parts named.]]<br />
The [[Darwin]] and [[Mendel]] Repraps were designed to extrude [[PLA]] plastic.<br />
People have developed many ways of improving on the original [[extruder]].<br />
It didn't take long before people starting trying to make them extrude other pastes, including [[ABS]] and even delicious frosting: Frostruder[http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4394].<br />
RepRap forums: "Frostruder MK2 = Granular extruder?"[http://dev.forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,29500].<br />
<br />
To extrude [[molten plastic]] [[Extruded filament|filament]], the "[[Cold End]]" forces the raw material (usually a 1.75mm or 3mm [[Printing_Material_Suppliers|diameter filament]]) into the [[hot end]]. The [[feeding filament]] should then go through the "[[Hot End]]" of the extruder with the heater and out of the [[nozzle]] at a reasonable speed. The extruded material falls onto the build platform (sometimes heated) and then layer by layer onto the part as it is built up.<br />
<br />
=== cold end ===<br />
<br />
The "[[Cold End]]" is usually the bulk of the extruder. It is often the actual carriage on one axis and supports the rest of the parts. In some designs, the "[[Cold End]]" is split into two parts; one part does the driving of the filament that is stationary and connected to the carriage portion, of a lighter weight design for easier movement, with a [[Bowden Extruders|flexible tube]]. The drive is a motor that rotates a knurled, hobbed, or toothed pinch wheel against a pressure plate or bearing with the filament forced between them. Usually, the motor is geared to the pinch wheel to increase available torque and extrusion control (smoothness). The gearing can be a 3D printed pinion and gear, stock worm wheel and gear, or a more expensive integral motor gearbox. Stepper motors are used almost universally after initial trials with DC motors did not achieve the required repeatability. Servo motors are an option, though they are not seen in the literature yet. The final function, some form of cooling, keeps the "[[Cold End]]" cold. With the close proximity to the "[[Hot End]]" and possible heated build platforms and enclosures, it is sometimes necessary to have additional passive or active cooling of the cold end parts. Heat sinks and fans are often used; water and Peltier effect cooling is also discussed. Much of this bulk is usually made from 3D printed parts and the temperature is maintained within safe limits.<br />
<br />
=== hot end attachment ===<br />
<br />
The "[[Cold End]]" is connected to the "[[Hot End]]" across a thermal break or insulator (the Bowden tube if used is on the cold side of this thermal break). This has to be rigid and accurate enough to reliably pass the filament from one side to the other, but still prevent much of the heat transfer. The materials of choice are usually PEEK plastic with PTFE liners or PTFE with stainless steel mechanical supports or a combination of all three. A Hot End is frequently joined to the Cold End using a [[Groove Mount]] where the thermal break or insulator is part of the Hot End assembly and the Cold End body is provisioned with a cylindrical recess.<br />
<br />
Many cold ends push the filament out a large hole centered between 2 small holes about 50 mm apart. ''(Is there a name for this de-facto standard?)''<br />
Some people rigidly attach a groove mount hot end to such a cold end with the [[mounting plate]] adapter and two short bolts.<br />
A few people put 2 long bolts through those holes and then put a spring around those bolts to make a [[spring extruder]].<br />
<br />
=== hot end ===<br />
<br />
: ''main article: [[Hot End Design Theory]]''<br />
<br />
The "[[Hot End]]" is the active part of the 3D printer that melts the filament. It allows the molten plastic to exit from the small nozzle to form a thin and tacky bead of plastic that will adhere to the material it is laid on.<br />
The first RepRap hot end was made of [[Materials#Brass | brass]]. Researchers have also made hot ends from [[glass Nozzles | glass]] or aluminium.<br />
The hot end consists of a melting zone or chamber with two holes.<br />
The cold end forces the filament into the hot end -- into the heating chamber of the hot end -- through one hole.<br />
The molten plastic exits the heating chamber through the other hole at the tip.<br />
The hole in the tip (nozzle) has a diameter of between 0.3mm and 1.0mm with typical size of 0.5mm with present generation extruders. Outside the tip of the barrel is a heating means, either a wire element or a standard wire wound resistor. The heat required is of the order of 20W with typical temperatures around 150 to 250 degrees Centigrade. For feedback control of the nozzle temperature, a thermistor is usually attached close to the nozzle, though a thermocouple may serve with suitable control hardware. High temperature [[materials]] are needed here. These include metals, cements and glues, glass and mineral fibre materials, [[PEEK]], [[PTFE]] and [[Kapton Tape|Kapton tape]].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== mount to rest of machine ===<br />
<br />
The ways extruders are mounted on the rest of the machine have evolved over time into informal mounting standards.<br />
These informal standards include<br />
the [[Vertical X Axis Standard]],<br />
the [http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/03/mendelmax-quick-fit-x-and-quick-fit.html Quick-fit extruder mount],<br />
the [[OpenX]] mount,<br />
etc.<br />
Such de-facto standards allows new extruder designs to be tested on existing printer frames,<br />
and new printer frame designs to use existing extruders.<br />
''(Does the "greg-adapter.scad" adapter in the [[Prusa i3 Build Manual]]''<br />
''let me mount an OpenX extruder on a Vertical X Axis machine?)''<br />
<br />
=== categorizing extruders on the wiki ===<br />
<br />
Add extruders to this "extruders" category by adding <code><nowiki>{{tag|extruders}}</nowiki></code> anywhere on the wiki page about that extruder (typically in the "categories" section of the [[template:development | development]] template).<br />
Also add the appropriate sub-category(s) --<br />
<code><nowiki>{{tag|Cold End}}</nowiki></code> or<br />
<code><nowiki>{{tag|Hot End}}</nowiki></code> or<br />
<code><nowiki>{{tag|Paste Extruders}}</nowiki></code> or<br />
etc.<br />
-- in the same section of that wiki page.<br />
<br />
* Can we come up with an idealized model of what *should* happen in the extruder independent of how it is implemented? [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?70,88930 RepRap forums: "What would be the ideal (theoretical) hotend/extruder combo?"]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Toolheads]]<br />
[[Category:Development]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=TobyBorlandOriginal&diff=188709
TobyBorlandOriginal
2021-03-12T21:32:20Z
<p>DavidCary: add relevant categories</p>
<hr />
<div>= Assembly of a Toby Borland Original PlyRap =<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
These are the build instructions for a plywood Version 1.0 Darwin RepRap. This is a duplicate of the one exhibited at the [http://www.sciencemuseum.org.uk Science Museum (London, England)] in conjunction with [http://www.smartlab.uk.com SMARTlab]. Toby was originally working to fairly tight deadlines and the documentation lagged the actual build. This document is aimed at contributing to that documentation and complements the CAD files which can be found at [http://sourceforge.net/projects/reprap Sourceforge] in the CVS repository. As this documentation is written after the fact and I am in many ways catching up to the detailed work that went before, any errors and mistakes are likely to be mine. Feedback and observations are welcome.<br />
<br />
== Construction Hints and Tips ==<br />
<br />
=== Working with Plywood ===<br />
<br />
Plywood whilst being an engineered material shares a whole bundle of features with the wood it was made from. Key features to note, then work with and around are :-<br />
<br />
* '''Dimensional stability''' Wood in general is a fairly dynamic thing in that it changes under the influence of the environment it finds itself in. Most notable is that it absorbs water and will shrink when dried and expand when wet. Even boards marked as for exterior use do the same. The main difference between interior and exterior boards is the glue used. The actual ply's are the same wood and react the same to the presence of water. Keep you parts somewhere dry until assembly is complete and when finished paint or varnish them to seal the surfaces.<br />
* '''Dimensional Precision''' Plywood is manufactured to within a nominal dimensional specification plus or minus a specified amount of error. This is of course then also affected by the observations above. Expect that the parts whilst being designed to the correct sizes and tolerance will be different when cut out of actual material because of this. Be prepared to file, sand and cut your way to success. <br />
* '''Gluing''' Use a water based wood glue, avoid impact adhesives as you don't get enough time with them to manipulate the alignment of components before they are grabbed permanently by the adhesive. You can use standard PVA glue quite successfully and it is sometimes possible to separate incorrectly PVA glued items by soaking in water. Be very mindful of the above notes re dimensional stability though. Soaking should really be a last desperate resort.<br />
* '''Filling''' Holes and voids can be filled with any number of over the counter fillers from DIY stores. A favorite carpenters trick is to mix fine saw dust with wood glue and use this as it is both cheap and matches the colour of the wood being used.<br />
* '''Wood Grain''' Whilst Plywood has its plys layered with the grain running at 90 degrees per layer for strength be aware that when cutting, sharp tools will attempt to follow the grain of the layer you are cutting through. Despite your best attempts otherwise, take great care with your fingers, you will need them for the rest of the assembly work. Similarly when filing, sanding and sawing the surface ply's will rip along the grain and look a bit of a dog. This can be avoided with care. Scoring the surface ply with a sharp blade can reduce the surface ripping along the grain.<br />
<br />
The components in this design are made mostly from the same thickness of plywood. This means that where a component needs to be of a greater thickness several pieces of the plywood are glued together to achieve this. This technique is known as lamination and can create parts with great strength if a few simple rules also common to gluing wood are followed.<br />
<br />
# '''Trial Assembly''' Assume that none of your pieces will fit instantly and perfectly together. Assemble each component dry, that is without any glue. Sand. file and cut your way until all the pieces for that particular component fit correctly together. Only when you are happy contemplate gluing them together.<br />
# '''Applying Glue''' Don't go wild with the glue any excess just squeezes out when you clamp your work up and needs cleaning off. Apply a thin regular film to each surface to be glued. Leave no voids or dry patches. Think of it as spreading butter frugally across a piece of cold toast. When clamped up wipe off any excess with a damp rag. Any you can;t get to can be cut away with a sharp knife after it has dried.<br />
# '''Clamping''' Glued wooden pieces and especially laminations are at their strongest when they have been clamped together for the duration of the time it takes the glue to set. Check you glue bottle for the instructions as to how long this is. You can use anything that will clamp up including a vice, nuts and bolts or dedicated clamps. If you are short of clamps and need to get on with the job clamp the pieces for at least the first hour or so.<br />
# '''Work in Stages''' Freshly glued laminations and pieces tend to slip until the glue has sufficiently dried, this is great for adjusting alignment. It is a pain though when you want to clamp up the work. Avoid clamping at angles to the glued joint, always clamp across the join at about 90 degrees. Do your gluing in stages and allow one stage to dry before progressing onto the next. arrange your stages so that it is only necessary to clamp in the one orientation per stage. You can glue as many laminations as you have clamps big enough for in a given stage providing you can keep the pieces aligned. Use pins, nuts and bolts as clamps and to keep pieces aligned as the glue dries.<br />
<br />
The picture below shows a stage that has been glued with my usual wood working glue and is clamped in a vice with soft jaws taped over the vice jaws so they don't mark the soft surface of the ply wood. I have put a nut and bolt through the laminations to keep them aligned and to keep them clamped when I release the part from the vice after the first hour. While that part continues to dry I can be getting on with the next one. Use washers with the nut and bolt to spread the clamping force and avoid marking the surface of the pieces.<br />
<br />
* Clamped Stage: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-Clamping.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
It is worthy of note that laminating thin plywood to make thicker pieces if glued correctly will create components with greater strength than working with thicker plywood. This is due to the way plywood is constructed. The outer layers are made from "Best" wood that has a better look and greater strength than the core wood which is a lower grade filler. thicker plywood has more filler. Where as thin plywood laminations contain more "Best" wood and consequently have a greater assembled strength. <br />
<br />
A word to the wise, I originally intended to set off and hand cut a set of components to do this build. Toby managed to talk me out of it. Having studied the components and completed the first set of Bed Corner Brackets I now fully realize Toby's advice was sound. His design was specifically made up for laser cutting and many of the components are cut with a precision that is not possible with other tooling. The Kerf (the bit that is lost during cutting due to tool width, usually as sawdust) is so very fine with a Laser cut. Add to this the facts that the Laser burn heat seals the edges and the lack of mechanical distress to the cut edges and you can see how work this fine with a material like plywood is only really possible using laser cut pieces.<br />
<br />
== Separating the Pieces ==<br />
<br />
The pieces arrive still in their sheet form and need to be separated out. As noted above plywood needs a bit of the delicate touch on pieces that are this fine. Particularly if you have kept your costs down by only ordering just enough of the parts that you need. Here's some tips to help make it work out. <br />
<br />
Put a couple of hours aside to seperate out all of the pieces. Do them all in one go. It can be tedious work but once you have got into a pattern of working it will soon be done.<br />
<br />
The laser often has not cut completely through the ply wood. This is for a variety of reasons. In most cases this is only the last ply that is just hanging on.<br />
<br />
Press such parts out gently by hand from the Back<br />
<br />
* Back: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-Back.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
To the front<br />
<br />
* Front: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-Front.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Press on the waste piece, if any ripping along the grain happens then it will be the waste pieces that are messy and you can ignore them.<br />
<br />
To avoid the ripping score along the kerf lines before pressing.<br />
<br />
* Score First: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ScoreFirst.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Keep all the bits until you have completely finished making the components up. I am still finding bits that I should have kept amongst the waste and conversely waste in amongst the good bits. If when you have assembled all your components you have something left and it can not possibly be part of a finished component than it must be waste and can be thrown away. Some of those long thin stick like waste bits are also great for use as disposable glue spreaders.<br />
<br />
* Finished Waste: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-FinishedWaste.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Note the tools shown in the picture below. These were all the tools that I needed to separate the pieces and do any initial obvious tidying up. The needle file was used to tidy up the teeth on the drive belt pulleys as these are very fine.<br />
<br />
* Finished Good: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-FinishedGood.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== Assembling the Jigsaw Pieces into Components ==<br />
<br />
=== Before ===<br />
The jigsaw laid out. Before starting check that you have all the pieces by laying them out somewhere where they won't get disturbed. This will also help you easily locate the parts you need for each component as you come to assemble it.<br />
* The pieces laid out: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-Layout.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Resealable plastic bags are great for keeping the more numerous components together and organizing things.<br />
<br />
=== Bed Corners ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 4 of these so there should be 4 sets of pieces as per the BC1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs BC1 through BC7.<br />
<br />
* BC1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BC_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* BC2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BC_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* BC3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BC_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* BC4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BC_4.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* BC5: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BC_5.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* BC6: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BC_6.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* BC7: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BC_7.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* Four Bed Corners Completed: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BC4Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Where did that bottle of beer come from ???<br />
<br />
=== Bed Constraint Bracket ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 2 of these so there should be 2 sets of pieces as per the BCS1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs BCS1 through BCS3.<br />
<br />
* BCS1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BCS_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* BCS2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BCS_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Watch those mounting holes they bolt to the holes on the Bed Clamp component and are offset towards the Bed Clamp. If you get them the wrong way around you will loose a bunch of valuable adjustment when it comes time to assemble the machine.<br />
<br />
* BCS3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BCS_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* Two Constraint Brackets Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-BCS2Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Corner Bracket ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 8 of these so there should be 8 sets of pieces as per the CB1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs CB1 through CB10.<br />
<br />
* CB1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* CB2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* CB3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* CB4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB_4.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* CB5: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB_5.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* CB6: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB_6.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* CB7: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB_7.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* CB8: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB_8.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* CB9: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB_9.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* CB10: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB_10.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* Eight Corner Brackets Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-CB8Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== Diagonal Tie Bracket ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 20 of these so there should be 20 sets of pieces as per the DB1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs DB1 through DB3.<br />
<br />
* DB1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-DB_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* DB2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-DB_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* DB3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-DB_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* Twenty Diagonal Tie Brackets Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-DB20Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== X Idler Bracket ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the IB1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs IB1 through IB7. If the will to live was leaving you whilst gluing the last 20 this one should be more fun.<br />
<br />
* IB1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-IB_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* IB2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-IB_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* IB3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-IB_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* IB4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-IB_4.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* IB5: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-IB_5.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* IB6: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-IB_6.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* IB7: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-IB_7.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* One X Idler Bracket Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-IB1Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== X Carriage ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the XC1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs XC1 through XC4.<br />
<br />
* XC1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XC_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XC2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XC_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XC3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XC_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XC4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XC_4.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* One X Carriage Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XC1Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
My "Half-Day" tea mug has snuck in to the frame. It said it was jealous of the beer bottle.<br />
<br />
=== X Constraint Bracket ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the XIB1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs XIB1 through XIB3. The Darwin Glossary calls this component an X Constraint Bracket and Toby has these parts and photo's labeled up as XIB. We will stick with the Glossary nomenclature though as it makes it easier to later work out which Plastic Darwin part is intended to replace which Ply Darwin Part.<br />
<br />
* XIB1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XIB_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Be very careful when filing the vertical slot in the two upright laminations. The bearing hole actually runs through to the tag slot. In itself this isn't problematic but the other side of the piece is quite thin. Too much force applied to the piece in the wrong way can snap the ply pieces.<br />
<br />
* XIB2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XIB_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XIB3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XIB_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* One X Constraint Bracket Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XIB1Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== X Motor Bracket ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the XMB1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs XMB1 through XMB10. This component is one of the more complex ones to assemble. If you have built these components in sequence by the time you get here you should have no problems though.<br />
<br />
* XMB1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XMB2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XMB3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XMB4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB_4.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XMB5: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB_5.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XMB6: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB_6.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XMB7: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB_7.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XMB8: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB8.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
A useful tip. There are so many tags and slots to match up at this stage it is easy to miss filing one up or even some may just not fit without further adjustment. When you dry fit the plate mark the tags and slots that need more work lightly with a pencil cross. When you take it off again then to make the adjustments you won't forget which of the many it was that you needed to work on. If you look closely in the photograph you will be able to see the ones I missed marked with a cross.<br />
<br />
* XMB9: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB_9.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* XMB10: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB_10.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* One X Motor Bracket Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-XMB1Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== Y Bearing Mount ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 3 of these so there should be 3 sets of pieces as per the YBM1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs YBM1 through YBM4.<br />
<br />
* YBM1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YBM_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* YBM2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YBM_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* YBM3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YBM_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* YBM4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YBM_4.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* Three Y Bearing Mounts Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YBM3Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
OK there are four in the photo. I made a spare and wanted to see if you are still awake.<br />
<br />
=== Y Motor Bracket ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the YMB1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs YMB1 through YMB5.<br />
<br />
* YMB1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YMB_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* YMB2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YMB_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* YMB3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YMB_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* YMB4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YMB_4.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* YMB5: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YMB_5.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* One Y Motor Bracket Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-YMB1Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== Z Studding Tie ===<br />
<br />
The Z Studding Tie in the glossary is pretty much nothing more than what it's name suggests. Toby has improved on this slightly to make the Z axis run somewhat smoother etc by reformatting it to include a bearing. Which makes it realy more like a Z Bearing Bracket. As earlier we will stick with the glossary description although its function here is slightly different.<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 3 of these so there should be 3 sets of pieces as per the ZBBS1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs ZBBS1 through ZBBS3.<br />
<br />
* ZBBS1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZBBS_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ZBBS2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZBBS_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ZBBS3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZBBS_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Be careful with the alignment. You need to be able to fit the bearing in. Filing the inside of a round hole with a dead end is not fun.<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* Z Studding Ties Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZBBS3Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== Z Motor Bracket ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the ZMB1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs ZMB1 through ZMB5.<br />
<br />
* ZMB1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZMB_1.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ZMB2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZMB_2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ZMB3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZMB_3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ZMB4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZMB_4.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ZMB5: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZMB_5.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* One Z Motor Bracket Complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZMB1Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== Z Toothed Pulley ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 4 of these so there should be 4 set of pieces as per the ZTP1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs ZTP1 through ZTP3.<br />
<br />
* ZTP1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZTP1.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ZTP2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZTP2.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ZTP3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZTP3.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The dry fitting is not much of a challenge as there is nothing to slot together. However you will have noticed that the two center laminations have all the tiny teeth on them that engage with the 2.5mm drive belt. These must line up as accurately as possible if you want the drive belt teeth to mesh with the pulley teeth.<br />
<br />
Attempting to get good alignment of such fine teeth without glue ridges in the middle looks to be near impossible but here is a way. Glue the two inner laminations together first using an M8 and M5 Nut and Bolt to clamp them in alignment. Wood glue is fairly slow to set so you have enough time to slide each lamination around the little that it does move to get the best possible alignment of the two halves of the teeth. Let the glue set enough so that it wont move but so that the glue that was squeezed out has not yet set. Use a steel blade to scrape between each pair of teeth in rotation to clear the glue out of the slot. This sounds fiddly and is a little but is done fairly quickly and gives acceptable results. Example implements to use for the teeth cleaning are the back of an Exacto craft knife blade, a junior hacksaw blade etc.<br />
<br />
Finally when the glue has fully set sandwich the results between the top and bottom laminations. Again use bolts to clamp them while the glue sets.<br />
<br />
The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* Four Z Toothed Pulleys complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZTP4Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Toby Also supplied some last minute options in the form of a set of inner laminations that are patterned for large pitch ball type plug chain. Assembly for these is as for the finer toothed variants above but clearly the teeth are a lot easier to work with.<br />
<br />
* ZTPC1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZTPC1.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* Four Z Toothed Pulleys for Ball Chain complete: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZTPC4Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== Z Belt Splicing Jig ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the ZBSJ1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs ZBSJ1 through ZBSJ2.<br />
<br />
* ZBSJ1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZBSJ1.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ZBSJ2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZBSJ2.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* ZBSJ1Done: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ZBSJ1Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
Use this jig along with a piece of the scrap plywood to help keep the Z toothed belt aligned as you splice it into a continuous loop.<br />
<br />
=== Straight Extruder Motor Support ===<br />
<br />
The Straight Extruder Motor Support was a late addition of Toby's. Toby found that mounting the feed motor further away from the extruder feed assembly allowed a straight rigid drive shaft to be used whilst avoiding fouling the feedstock. Toby also arranged that the Solarbotics GM3 could be optionally replaced with the Tamiya 72001 epicyclic geared motor giving constructors more options for experimentation. <br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the ZMB1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs ZMB1 through ZMB5.<br />
<br />
* SEMS1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-SEMS1.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* SEMS2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-SEMS2.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* SEMS3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-SEMS3.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like SEMS3 but with glue on.<br />
<br />
=== Extruder Polymer Guide ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the EPG1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs EPG1 through EPG6.<br />
<br />
* EPG1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EPG1.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* EPG2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EPG2.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* EPG3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EPG3.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* EPG4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EPG4.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* EPG5: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EPG5.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* EPG6: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EPG6.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* EPG1Done: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EPG1Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Extruder S H ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the ESH1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs ESH1 through ESH4.<br />
<br />
* ESH1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ESH1.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ESH2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ESH2.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ESH3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ESH3.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* ESH4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ESH4.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* ESH1Done: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-ESH1Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== Extruder Clamp ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 1 of these so there should be 1 set of pieces as per the EC1 photo. Proceed to dry fit them together as per photographs EC1 through EC4.<br />
<br />
* EC1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EC1.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* EC2: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EC2.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* EC3: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EC3.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
* EC4: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EC4.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* EC1Done: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-EC1Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== Opto Sensor Board ===<br />
<br />
Dig out all the pieces that you have laid out and that look like these. You are assembling 6 of these so there should be 6 sets of pieces as per the OSB1 photo. Proceed to dry fit the two pieces of each component together.<br />
<br />
* OSB1: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-OSB1.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
When you have dry fitted them all having filed and sanded your way to success you are ready to glue them. The finished results should look something like this.<br />
<br />
* OSB6Done: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-OSB6Done.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
=== After ===<br />
<br />
Here are the finished components laid out awaiting assembly into a working machine. You will notice in the photograph that I have already started to fit nut's, bolt's and bearings into the components. <br />
<br />
* The components laid out: <br /><br />
[[image:TobyBorlandOriginal-after.JPG|thumb]]<br />
<br />
== Assembling the components into a working machine ==<br />
<br />
=== Economy ===<br />
<br />
The original Darwin RP'd parts all use Cap Head or Socket Head machine screws. These screws are of a variety of lengths each appropriate for the task. The RP'd plastic parts are often made such that clearances for Pan Head screws are insufficient without modification. As the ply components are based on the original plastic components they were also designed for use with Cap Head machine screws. <br />
<br />
In the interests of economy I have used Pan Head machine screws in as few lengths as possible. This has made it possible to get best price (pence per screw, nut & washer) by buying bigger packs. Pan Head machine screws cost less than their Cap or Socket headed equivalents. Do shop around it is quite surprising what the price breaks work out at and will be different in your locality. I found M5 30mm machine screws to be half the cost of M5 20mm screws from my local supplier when bought in packs of 250 or more.<br />
<br />
Where the screw was unsightly or ridiculously long I have used a Dremel cut off tool to trim them down to a more manageable size. If you don't have a Dremel or equivalent a junior hacksaw and file can be used instead. <br />
<br />
I also used the Dremel tool with a suitable sized cutter/burr and sanding drum to make additional clearance for the Pan head on the screws where this was necessary or trim up the Pan Head. Again if you don't have a Dremel or equivalent the files and craft knives used to make up the components can be used.<br />
<br />
The original Darwin and BOM presumes that maximum use will be made of smooth M8 Rod. In practice you may well find that M8 Studding ie threaded M8 Rod actually costs less. Any rod in the design which doesn't support a sliding bearing is fair game to exchange for studding with the attendant cost savings.<br />
<br />
The rotary bearings Toby designed for are 608ZZ bearings (Deep Grooved, Ball Bearing, 8mm Bore with 2 Seals) and are available at their most cost effective as skateboard bearings either from eBay or your local skateboard shop. Greater ABEC numbers are allocated to bearings with tighter tolerances. ABEC5 should be plenty good enough although if you can get anything greater for the same price or less these are worth having.<br />
<br />
Convenient sources for most of the components you might need if you can not get them locally can be found [PartsSupplies here] this includes the [http://www.rrrf.org/ RRRF] online store. <br />
<br />
=== Preperation for assembly ===<br />
<br />
=== Assembling your machine ===<br />
<br />
As the completed components are largely interchangeable with RP'd Darwin plastic components all the existing assembly instructions and BOM details can be followed. Of course in this case we are using the Ply Components instead of plastic ones. Check out he "Gotchas" section for notes on the things that are close but close enough and might catch you out.<br />
<br />
[AssemblingDarwinMachinery Cartesian assembly instructions (Mechanical) can be found here] courtesy of VikOlliver and EdSells<br />
<br />
[AssemblingDarwinElectronics Cartesian assembly instructions (Electrical) can be found here] courtesy of ZachSmith and EdSells<br />
<br />
[RepRapOneDarwinThermoplastExtruder Extruder assembly instructions can be found here] courtesy of AdrianBowyer.<br />
<br />
[Generation2Electronics Electronic assembly instructions can be found here] courtesy of AdrianBowyer and I believe ZachSmith.<br />
<br />
==== Gotchas ====<br />
<br />
Check here whilst you are assembling your machine, for things that look like they should be the OK or the same but are not quite. These will probably catch you out as they did me.<br />
<br />
# You will need to counter sink the Z Motor Bracket top mounting bolt head so that your stepper motor can fit flush into place.<br />
# The stub rods used with the Y Idler that the BOM describes as being 70mm need to be a touch longer for use with the Ply parts. 100mm should be sufficient. Do trial fit them using some spare rod to get a correct measurement any surplus can poke out of the top. When you progress to a Darwin built from printed components these can be shortened if necessary.<br />
# The corner blocks that support the Y Idler Bracket can get very congested with the grub screws to fix everything in place even to the point of one fouling the placing of another. Easiest way around this is to make the short stub rods from threaded stud rather than bar and fix them in place using M8 nuts top and bottom of the corner block.<br />
# The BOM for the non RP parts for the Extruder calls for 2 brass bearings of 11mm long to be cut from M6 brass rod. In actuality the Ply Rap extruder bearing holes are 6mm long by 10mm wide. So cut your bearing pieces from M10 rod and make them 6mm long.<br />
<br />
=== The finished machine ===<br />
<br />
=== Printing out the Shot Glass ===<br />
<br />
== Acknowledgments ==<br />
* [http://www.smartlab.uk.com/2projects/magicbox.htm Toby Borland] for the original PlyRap exhibited at the [http://www.bsn.org.uk/view_all.php?id=13632 Science Museum (London, England)], Laser Cutting, Build Photos and ongoing input.<br />
* [http://diamondage.co.nz Vik Oliver] for ongoing work on simplifying and attempting to create a reduced cost Ponoko compatible PlyRap.<br />
* Everyone at [http://forums.reprap.org forums.reprap.org] for their contribution to this ongoing development<br />
<br />
-- Main.AndyKirby - 10 Jul 2008<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Darwin]]<br />
[[category: wood]]<br />
[[category: RepStrap]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RedBot&diff=188708
RedBot
2021-03-12T04:37:12Z
<p>DavidCary: link to related articles, etc.</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Development:Stub}}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<flickr>5158203452|left</flickr> <br />
<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = RedBot<br />
|description = documenting the build of a repstrap using some [[MDF]] and a set of mendel parts.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = Redwizard<br />
|reprap = Sui Generis<br />
|categories = [[:Category:Wood|Wood]][[Category:Wood]],[[:Category:Has Files|Has Files]][[Category:Has Files]],[[:Category:Files Missing|Files Missing]][[Category:Files Missing]], [[:Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]][[Category:Needs Render|Needs Render]]<br />
{{tag|RepStrap}}<br />
}} <br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
Welcome to the development page for the prototype "RedBot" repstrap 3d printer. This 3d printer will be used to repstrap a more permanent 3d printer first by printing replacement parts for the repstrap in plastic and later by printing either a huxley or mendel. This printer will also be a test bed for testing a long list of potential modifications for mendel and will also be making use of its larger bed to produce larger parts as required. Check out the flickr set of photo's documenting assembly of the frame (so far)<br />
<br />
=About the RedBot=<br />
<br />
This repstrap utilizes an X axis upon which rides the y axis, and upon that, the extruder carriage. The bed will make use of trapped nuts to ride up and down a Z screw drive much like the mendel uses on the carriage assembly. The printable area is currently looking to be approx 360mm x 300mm with a z depth of approximately 193mm at the moment.<br />
<br />
=Movement=<br />
In the last week(?) i've dissassembled and reassembled the whole upper frame 3 times. This is due to friction issues on and between the 2 Z screws, one is driven by the motor and the other is connected to the first by a timing belt. Liberal use of bearings has reduced the friction to a level where the only issue now is getting the right amount of tension on the belt to stop skipping steps. The Z screws originally sat on the bottom vertex pieces with a bearings outer ring pushed up against the wood of the vertex piece and the inner ring secured between 2 nuts. These nuts should turn freely(and the holes drilled in the vertex piece allowed this) but the upper end of the threaded rod passes through the upper vertex piece and this led to friction which was fixed with more bearings. The way the Z assembly is set up now, The Z screws actually float just above the lower vertex pieces now.<br />
<br />
=Electronics=<br />
I started off with a generic [[Arduino Mega]] 1280 and started ripping [[McWire|dead]] printers apart for stepper motors. I have 5 working [[Stepper Motor|Stepper Motors]] and 2 of those motors have prototyped stepper drivers, however in order to make more progress and to get around the fact my [[Soldering|soldering]] skills are VERY [[RustyHuxley|rusty]], i've opted for some allegro stepper drivers with voltage regulators from a [[RUG/UK|uk]] based company. **UPDATE** just arrived, there pololu's so should do a very good job!<br />
<br />
=Extruders=<br />
<br />
I've been through a lot of ideas for extruders and the prototypes i'll be testing are listed below : <br />
<br />
[[FTIStrap#Extruder Construction | HotGlueGunStruder]] - like it sounds, i'm taking a hot glue gun, ripping the outer housing and trigger off and replacing it with a frame, a gluestick feeder and a smaller nozzle. Low tech with low melting point plastic applications as well as possibly utilising for experiments with other materials that require lower melting points.<br />
<br />
Generic Extruder - based on the existing relatively basic extruder design, [[Adrian's Geared Extruder]] cold end + [[geared extruder nozzle]] hot end, a relatively basic extruder design with a brass extruder nozzle, PTFE thermal barrier etc. I hope to make use of this extruder with PLA and ABS.<br />
<br />
[[HotWaxSyringe]] WaxStruder - I've got some experiments to perform with wax and resistance wire before i'm ready to start extruding wax but if i can crack it, i'll have a potential support material and custom candle printer.<br />
<br />
SandCastruder - An idea both myself and a member of the north devon model engineer society suggested to me recently, printing with sand and a fixative to create cores for [[High Temperature Metal Casting | casting work]]. Definitely useful longterm.<br />
<br />
=Planned Modifications=<br />
<br />
The printer itself will repstrap me a working [[mendel]]/[[huxley]] which i can use to print other stuff but once I have that, the repstrap will be used as a test bed for potential new printer ideas. The following are currently being mulled over while i build the redbot so i have a hope of getting to this point.<br />
<br />
[[Heated Bed]] - been done to death but apparently its very useful in a number of situations...<br />
<br />
[[Heated_Bed#plastic_bag | Heated Chamber]] - not done as much but enclosing the square frame with some MDF panels will probably give the printer more stability anyway.<br />
<br />
[[Mendel Multiple Extruder | Multi-Head]] - an extra axis set on the Y carriage will give the printer interchangable heads. discussions of extruders on rails or set up like microscope multiplier lenses have been considered.<br />
<br />
Spindle support - important for stress free prints. <br />
<br />
Temperature sensor overload - nothing crazy, just an expansive set of thermal sensors all over the printer to try and give me feedback on everything from extruded material temp to bed and ambient temperatures. I want to know how this affects any given print.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Files Missing]] <!--delete this line ([[Category:Files Missing]])once files are up. ---><br />
<br />
<br />
=External Links to Project Progress=<br />
*[http://www.flickr.com/photos/redwizardstudios/sets/72157624984552550/ Frame build photo's]<br />
<br />
The RedBot RepStrap looks very similar to the [[Columbus]] RepRap.</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Frame_material&diff=188038
Frame material
2020-06-12T13:45:10Z
<p>DavidCary: yet another potential material</p>
<hr />
<div>People have built RepRap-based ... things ... out of a surprisingly wide variety of materials.<br />
<br />
Most of the mass of the RepRap is the outer frame.<br />
<br />
There seem to be 4 main approaches to making the frame:<br />
* build-up: Build the frame out of parts built-up to exactly the right shape and size.<br />
* modular: Build the frame out of some modular construction material, to make it easy to make a little bigger (so you can make bigger parts) or a little smaller (to improve rigidity and hopefully precision) or to otherwise experiment with different configurations. Also, once such a RepRap has been built and printed out the second generation, it can be disassembled and the parts used for other things.<br />
* cut: Build the frame out of some continuous material that is cut to length, and perhaps a few holes drilled in it, but not otherwise shaped.<br />
* shaped: Build the frame out of parts shaped to exactly the right shape and size.<br />
<br />
The [[Mendel frame]] seems to be a pretty good compromise, combining a few "cut" parts -- the studding (threaded rod) -- and a bunch of parts built-up from thermoplastic filament using a previous generation RepRap.<br />
<br />
The ideal material for a n+1 generation RepRap has these characteristics:<br />
* raw material extremely low cost<br />
* quick to convert raw material to parts (to reduce [[generation time]]) with nth generation RepRap<br />
* adequate strength-to-weight ratio so that it can hold itself up and move the tool head to a precise positions<br />
* ...<br />
* ''please fill in other characteristics I'm missing ...''<br />
<br />
The ideal material for a 0th generation [[RepStraps]] has these characteristics:<br />
* raw material easily available<br />
* easy for a human to shape ("easy to work") with easily available tools<br />
* adequate strength-to-weight ratio so that it can hold itself up and move the tool head in a precise positions<br />
* ...<br />
* ''please fill in other characteristics I'm missing ...''<br />
<br />
== build-up construction materials ==<br />
<br />
The most astonishing thing about RepRap is that it is designed out of parts that, with few exceptions, can be built-up on a RepRep.<br />
<br />
* thermoplastic [[filament]]: [[PLA]], [[ABS]], [[HDPE]], [[LDPE]], [[PP]], [[uPVC]], "Laywood Filament"(mentioned by [[RUG/Pennsylvania/State_College/RepRap_Media_Timeline|PA State RUG]]) -- see [[Printing Material Suppliers]]<br />
* thermoplastic granules: ... Is [[polycaprolactone]] (aka [http://www.makershed.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MKSHL1 "ShapeLock"]) stuff strong enough to build a RepStrap?<br />
** Apparently it is -- see [[Molding Mendel Parts]]<br />
* molten metal: [[Automated Circuitry Making#Fields Metal Deposition | Fields metal]]<br />
* Metal powder deposition, Electron beam sintered -- [[MetalicaRap]]<br />
* cement, modeling clay, pourable epoxy (''[[Epoxy granite]] etc'')-- [[PourStrap]] & [[GolemB]]<br />
<br />
== modular construction materials ==<br />
<br />
=== grid beam ===<br />
[[Image:Eiffel_Concept.jpg|thumb|right|Early version of Eiffel, showing the grid beam TriLap joints. (The beams should have through-holes repeating along the side.)]] <br />
grid beam: 2"x2" square beams with a line of holes: typically used for furniture and street signs.<br />
"pre-drilled square beams".<br />
A typical piece of furniture built out of grid beam uses lots of [[TriLap]] joints.<br />
<br />
Wooden grid beams seem easier to cut to length.<br />
Metal grid beams seem stronger and more rigid.<br />
<br />
Does it make any sense to use a mixture of both wooden and metal grid beams bolted together?<br />
<br />
* [[Eiffel]] is built out of grid beam.<br />
* [http://builders.reprap.org/2009/08/wrench-built-machine-update.html Wrench-built machine] appears to be built out of grid beam. A RepStrap built mostly out of 1" square perforated tube. ''(Is this a [[Eiffel]] or something else?)''<br />
* [[RBS]] and [[Eiffel]] suggests that a kind of RepRap could make grid beam out of lumber.<br />
* [[RBS/Beam]]<br />
* [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/LifeTrac_Questions#square_tube_construction_techniques square tube construction techniques]; [http://opensourceecology.org/wiki/gridbeam Grid Beam]<br />
* The square metal tubes with round holes in the side pictured in [http://blog.reprap.org/2009/02/pull-yourself-together-bot.html "Pull Yourself Together, Bot!"] look a *lot* like grid beam -- would "real" grid beam work just as well?<br />
* http://www.gridbeam.com/<br />
* http://www.gridbeamers.com/<br />
* http://gridbeam.biz/<br />
* http://www.alliedtube.com/sign-support/traffic-sign-posts/telespar-square.asp<br />
* http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-structural-tubing/=49tu63<br />
<br />
==== Bitbeam ====<br />
<br />
Bitbeam is a miniaturized grid-beam system compatible with Lego Technic, using 8mm x 8mm square beams.<br />
[http://www.makerbot.com/blog/tag/bitbeam]<br />
[http://bitbeam.org/]<br />
[http://bitbeam.org/about/]<br />
<br />
* Bitbeam -- [[BrickRap]], Bitbeambot[http://bitbeam.org/2012/08/25/bitbeambot-the-complete-kit/], etc.<br />
<br />
=== extruded aluminum ===<br />
* MakerBeam; 80/20 T-slot extrusion; etc. -- [[T-Rep]], [[SamBot]], etc.<br />
see [[Extruded Aluminum]] for similar aluminum materials.<br />
<br />
=== OpenStructures ===<br />
<br />
"The OS (OpenStructures) project explores the possibility of a modular construction model where everyone designs for everyone on the basis of one shared geometrical grid."[http://www.openstructures.net/]<br />
<br />
Based on a 4×4cm square that marks cutting lines and assembly points.<br />
Designed for disassembly, adaptation, re-assembly, and scalability.<br />
(lots of [[TriLap]] joints in the illustrations).<br />
<br />
=== Contraptor ===<br />
: ''Main page: [[Contraptor]]''<br />
<br />
* "Contraptor is a DIY open source construction set for experimental personal fabrication, desktop manufacturing, prototyping and bootstrapping. ... Contraptor is mechanically compatible with 1" T-slot ..., pegboard, 1" [[grid beam]] (such as commercially available perforated steel tube), and likely other things with dimensions standardized in 1" grid."<br />
<br />
See [[Contraptor]] for more details.<br />
<br />
=== other modular materials ===<br />
[[Image:gluegunfabber.jpg|thumb|right|glue gun fabber: Is this Vik Olliver's Meccano-set based RepRap prototype?]]<br />
* pegboard: wood sheets with a regular grid drilled into them ([[RBS/Grid]]) -- [[LeCorb]]; [[RBS]] suggests that a kind of RepRap could drill the appropriate grid pattern.<br />
* slatwall (Is this the same as T-slots routed into MDF ?) [http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/i-need-t-track]<br />
* fischertechnik parts -- [[FTIStrap]] is the first RepStrap to succeed in printing 3D objects<br />
* the [http://www.lynxmotion.com/Category.aspx?CategoryID=73 "Servo Erector Set"] looks like a quick way to assemble things like a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hEXwyJ2B78 Hexapod Robot CNC Router].<br />
* LEGO -- [[:Category:Lego]]<br />
* [http://www.erector-sets.net/ Erector] and Meccano -- ?<br />
* Merkur -- ?<br />
* [http://parts.ftcrobots.com/store/Default.aspx?bhcp=1 Pitsco TETRIX Parts] -- ?<br />
* [http://www.vexrobotics.com/products/accessories/structure VEX Robotics Design] -- ?<br />
* The Phenostream Robotics [http://www.phenostream.com/gallery.aspx BuildPlate construction system] looks like a quick way to assemble hand-sized robots -- ?<br />
* The [http://mrkimrobotics.com/?page_id=2209 "The 1X2 connector system"] -- [[1X2]], [[1X2 Shortcat]], and [[1X2 Tallcat]]<br />
* [[Plastic T-slot]]<br />
<br />
(the [http://fffff.at/free-universal-construction-kit/ Free Universal Construction Kit] is a set of adapters for interoperability between several of the above construction "toys").<br />
<br />
== cut-to-length construction materials ==<br />
<br />
=== metal rods ===<br />
<br />
* 8 mm threaded steel rod (aka "[[threaded rod]]" or "allthread" or "M8 studding"): Many RepRaps and RepStraps use all-thread as a easily-adjustable frame material. Many also have at least one axis driven by a "lead screw" of 8 mm threaded road or nearly equivalent 5/16" threaded rod that acts as a worm gear, turned by a [[stepper motor]], that pushes parts back and forth. A few use bigger sizes such as M12 and M10 threated rods in the [[BiBONE]][http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?152,128970] or smaller sizes such as the 1/4 inch threaded rod used in smaller [[SAE Mendel]] machines.<br />
* 8 mm smooth steel rods (aka [[smooth rod]], aka "drill rod"): Most RepRaps and RepStraps have parts that slide back and forth on 8 mm or nearly equivalent 5/16" smooth rod. A few RepStraps ({{tag|DriveTrains#rotary to linear motion conversion}}) spin a smooth rod with their motor rather than a threaded rod. A few use other sizes such as the 12 mm smooth rod used by [[HaMendel]][http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?152,169733] and BiBone. "O1 drill rod" ? "A2 drill rod" ?<br />
<br />
=== water pipe ===<br />
<br />
* electrical conduit (~20 mm OD steel tube) -- [[Uconduit]]<br />
* Steel water pipe and fittings -- [[Builders/Frank]]; [[McWire Cartesian Bot 1 2]]; [[Builders/PipeStrap]]; [[Development:McWire]]<br />
* [[PVC]] water pipe and fittings -- much lighter weight and lower cost and easier to drill than metal; but is it rigid enough? [[XtruBot]], [[RepRap Morgan]], [[LISA Simpson]], [[Easy build delta printer]], etc.<br />
** possibly using the [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:932732 "PVC pipe construction set"] as described at [http://3dprint.com/84284/pvc-pipe-construction-kit/ "PVC Pipe Construction Gets Boost with 3D Printed Corner Connectors"]<br />
* Large-diameter [[PVC]] sewer pipe -- using 6" (or larger) nominal I.D. pipe as a tower/gantry to mount the other parts of the printer. [[PipeDream]]<br />
<br />
=== other cut-to-length construction materials ===<br />
<br />
* low-cost softwood dimensional lumber, roughly 18x45mm and 18x70mm (close enough to "1x2" and "1x4"), bolted together -- [[1X2]] and [[WolfStrap]]<br />
* poplar planks -- [http://3dreplicators.com/New%20Front%20Page/Gallery/Gallery.htm Tommelise]<br />
* extruded aluminum L rails -- [[Doboz]]<br />
* [[#extruded aluminum]] in other shapes<br />
<br />
== cut-to-shape construction materials ==<br />
<br />
''Should we distinguish between cutting flat materials into a (2D) shape (perhaps with a [[CNC Router]]) and perhaps drilling a few holes into the face and edges, vs. cutting large blocks of material into arbitrary 3D shapes?''<br />
<br />
* cut sheets without any plastic printed parts (RepStrap):<br />
** sheet metal cut, drilled, and folded to approximate the plastic parts of a Mendel -- [[My Development Page Sheet Metal Mendel]]<br />
** sheet metal cut, drilled, and folded in other ways -- [http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=rU9ef3tBvk4 Tony's sheet metal RepStrap]<br />
** "MDF or Ply or Perspex/Acrlic or HDPE or Aluminum" sheets -- [[Huxley Seedling]]<br />
** laser-cut plastic (typically clear acrylic) -- [[Builders/LaserCut RepStraps]]; [[PonokoRepRap]]<br />
** sheet plywood -- [[PlywoodRepRaps]] such as [[LaserCut Mendel]]; [[CupCakeStrap]]; [[CupCake]] ??? ; [[Gunstrap]]; [[DeltaTrix]] ([http://www.deltatrix.co.uk/]; [http://www.instructables.com/id/DeltaTrix-3D-Printer]); etc.<br />
<br />
** foamcore -- see imoyer's Foamcore CNC Machine [http://web.mit.edu/imoyer/www/portfolio/foamcore/] [http://reprap.development-tracker.info/development/143002] [http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Foamcore-CNC/]. Can this be laser-cut?<br />
** "flat sheets of wood or plastic (currently HDPE) ... Cut ... on some 2.5D CNC router" -- [[Isaac]], [[LaserCut Mendel]], etc.<br />
* hardwood cut in more or less the exact same shapes as the plastic parts of a Mendel -- [[Development:Wooden Mendel]]<br />
* metal cut in more or less the exact same shapes as the plastic parts of a Mendel -- [[Development:Metal Mendel]]<br />
* ??? -- [[Development:McWire Successor]] ???<br />
* adapting an off-the-shelf milling machine -- [[:Category:MillStrap]]<br />
* whatever random stuff I had laying around -- [[Builders/JunkStrap]]<br />
* Hybrid: cut sheets and plastic printed parts complementing each other:<br />
** Hybrid: Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) or Acrylic sheet with printed brackets -- [[Mendel90]]; [[Prusa i3#Wood Sheet frame]]; [[Prusa i3#Box Style Frame]]; <br />
** 4 mm aluminum sheet metal and printed brackets -- [[Orca]]<br />
** 6 mm aluminum sheet metal and printed brackets -- [[Prusa i3#Single Sheet Frame]]<br />
** Dibond: [[Idea lab one]], [[Mendel90]], etc.<br />
** Hylite (aluminium-polypropylene-aluminum sheets), carefully CNC engraved to create [[living hinge]]s -- [https://hackaday.io/project/158650-folds-and-hinges-technology-to-make-mechanisms "Folds and Hinges Technology to Make Mechanisms"]<br />
<br />
To make future generations of self-replicating machines out of such materials seems to require a [[CNC Router]] or a [[Laser Cutter]].<br />
<br />
== other discussions of building material ==<br />
<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Robotics/Design_Basics/Building_Materials Wikibooks: robot building materials] implies that cardboard (!) is best for quick prototypes; for functional robots, "wood is probably the best material to start with."; where wood isn't quite durable enough, aluminum is the best metal -- better than steel for most robots.<br />
** ''Is "edgeboard"[https://web.archive.org/web/20100804002012/http://www.arcspace.com/gehry_new/index.html?main=/gehry_new/cardb/cardb.html] the same as corrugated cardboard? It's apparently strong enough to hold up full-sized humans; is it strong enough to hold up an extruder nozzle?''<br />
** ''Is it possible to build a [[FlatPack]] RepStrap mostly out of "Laminated Laser-cut Cardboard"[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,64851]?''<br />
*** [http://www.erb.co.il/en/cooperations.asp Izhar Gafni] has made a type of bicycle with a composite frame (''cardboard & epoxy?/some polyester?'') ("[http://www.dezeen.com/2012/11/12/cardboard-bicycle-by-izhar-gafni/ Cardboard Bicycle]"). It is apparently waterproof and strong enough to hold up full-sized humans. It is definitely worth an investigation, if nothing else for the other end of the M8 threaded rod there.. are on several levels; [[Epoxy_granite|Epoxy Granite]].<br />
<br />
<videoflash type="vimeo">37584656</videoflash><br />
<br />
* Some people building a [http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=27723&postcount=79 relatively open-source MechMate CNC router] claim that "Steel is the cheapest metal known to mankind. Buying Aluminum with equal structural properties will only INCREASE the cost".<br />
* [http://stackoverflow.com/questions/181194/rapid-prototyping-for-embedded-systems Stack Overflow: "Rapid Prototyping for Embedded Systems"]<br />
<br />
* [[User:Mrkim]] mentions various "Classes of machines",[http://mrkimrobotics.com/?page_id=2209][http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5773] including entire classes of machines that the above seems to neglect.<br />
<br />
* [https://carnesmechanical.com Carnesmechanical] strive to create a collaborative environment to make the purchase of automotive products enjoyable for you. Carnesmechanical is a small blog, is dedicated to bringing unbiased automotive product reviews, car Electronics, auto tool, oil, electrical, welding, accessories.<br />
<br />
----<br />
[[Category:Development]]<br />
[[Category:Developments by material]]<br />
[[category:material]]<br />
[[category:reference]]<br />
[[Category:Analysis]]</div>
DavidCary
https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Alternative_Electronics&diff=187800
Alternative Electronics
2020-05-06T00:09:17Z
<p>DavidCary: restore paragraph that was accidentally deleted</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Alt Build Documentation Header}}<br />
{{merge|"Official" Electronics}}<br />
[[Image:Mendel.jpg|300px|right]]<br />
Do not let the size of this page discourage you, you have many electronic choices. At the end of the day you need these fundamental components<br />
*A Mainboard<br />
*Stepper Drivers<br />
*Endstops (Optional, see here)<br />
<br />
How you get there is up to you. If you don't want to make these kinda of choices simply follow an "offical" build (Color choices below).<br />
<br />
<table style='width:200px;border:1px solid;float:right;'><br />
<tr><td style='color:blue'>Blue</td><td>Mendel "Official"</td></tr><br />
<tr><td style='color:orange'>Orange</td><td>Huxley "Official"</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
== Single Board Electronics ==<br />
<br />
With these solutions, you have all the main components on a single PCB. Stepper drivers are sometimes pluggable (and exchangeable), sometimes with chips soldered directly onto the board.<br />
<br />
Typically you also need external [[endstop]]s, as endstops have to be placed on the printer frame in specific places.<br />
{| class=wikitable <br />
|-<br />
! Pic !! Name !! Author !! License !!Based on !! RepRap Etchable !! Firmware !! Status !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| [[Image:Finished-pcbs.jpg|100px]] || [[Pololu_Electronics|Pololu]] || Adrianbowyer || GPL v2 || Arduino Mega || Yes || FiveD || Experimental/ DEFACTO ||<br />
|-<br />
| [[Image:Gen7 Board-ARM 2.0.jpeg|100px]] || [[Generation 7 Electronics]] || [[User:Traumflug|Traumflug]] || CC BY-NC-SA || LPC1114 (32-bit ARM) || Yes || [[Teacup]] ||shipping|| <br />
|-<br />
| [[Image:SinapTec_AT328.02_-_Foto.jpg|100px]] || [[SinapTec]] || [[User:Sinaptec|Sinaptec]] || GPL || || Yes || [[Teacup]] || ??? || Mount an [[Arduino Nano]] ATmega328P<br />
|-<br />
| [[Image:t-bone-image.jpg|100px]] || [[T-Bone]] || [[User:Interactive-matter|Interactive Matter]] || AGLP/CC SA || Beagle Bone || Untested || any || Release || Versatile, powerful CNC motion controller <br />
|-<br />
| || [[Duet|Duet]] || Think3DPrint3D and RepRapPro || Cern OHW || ATSAM3X8E || No || RepRapFirmware || Release || All in one, Ethernet, digital current control<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Modular Electronics ==<br />
<br />
Modular electronics have a separate PCB for each main component. You connect them by wiring to get a fully functional electronics. Modules can also serve to extend single board electronics, too.<br />
<br />
==== Mainboard ====<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! Pic !! Name !!Author !!License !!Based on !!RepRap Etchable !!Built-In Optics !! Firmware !! Status !! Notes !! ~Component Cost<br />
|-<br />
| [[Image:Motherboard_1_2-motherboard-modified-small.jpg|100px]] || [[Motherboard_1_2|1.2 - Gen 3]] || || || atmega644p || No || No || FiveD || Released || || <br />
|-<br />
| [[Image:RepRapOneDarwin-darwin.jpg|100px]] || Something Ancient || || || atmega644p || No || No || Proclarush Taonas 1.0 || Retired || <br />
|-<br />
| [[Image:Electronicshookedup.JPG|100px]] || Tekzone Remix Mainboard || Kymberlyaandrus || || atmega644p || No || ? || Working || || || <br />
|-<br />
| [[Image:CNControls10.jpg|100px]] || [http://mauk.cc/webshop/electronics/mainboard/cn-controls-mainboard-reprap-cartesio-maukcc CN Controls] || MaukCC || CC BY_NC_SA 4.0 || Arduino || No || No || Marlin || Working || <br />
|}<br />
<br />
==== Stepper Drivers ====<br />
<br />
: ''Main article: [[stepper motor driver]].''<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Pic !! Name !!Author !! License !! Based on !! RepRap Etchable !! Soldering Required !!Rating Per Coil !!Status !!Notes !!Purchase Assembled !!~Component Cost<br />
|-<br />
| [[image:TMC2100_preview.jpg|100px]] || [[TMC2100]] || [[User:Skimmy|Skimmy]]? || [[CC-BY-SA]] || ? || ? || ? || 1.25A RMS continuous || shipping || ? || [https://shop.watterott.com/navi.php?search=search&lang=eng&qs=SilentStepStick Watterott] || ?<br />
|-<br />
| [[image:raps1.jpg|100px]] || [[RAPS128]] || ? || [[CC-BY-NC-SA]] || ? || ? || ? || ? || ? || ? || ? || ?<br />
|-<br />
| [[image:STB_Cool_DRV8825_V11.jpg|100px]] || [[STB Cool Stepper Driver]] || ? || [[CC-BY-NC-SA]] || ? || ? || ? || ? || ? || ? || ? || ?<br />
|-<br />
| [[image:Cache-3314977742_1b6fce154e.jpg|100px]] || [[Stepper_Motor_Driver_2_3|Stepper Motor Driver 2.3]] || || GPL || Allegro A3982 || ?No? || Surface Mount || 2A || Released || || PCB Here || <br />
|-<br />
| [[image:StepStick.Top.jpg|100px]] || [[StepStick]] || || GPL V2 || Allegro A4983 & A4988 || ? || Reflow || 2A || Development || A drop in replacement for any [[Pololu stepper driver board]]. Four drivers on one board fit perfectly into [[Sanguinololu]] or break apart for other electronics || Check eBay for Stepstick "Twigs" || ~$25 USD (for all 4 drivers)<br />
|-<br />
| [[image:Tri diuno bb.jpg|100px]] || [[Tri Duino Stepper]] || || GPL || ATMEGA168 & ULN2803A || ?Yes? || through-hole || 1A || Development || || ? || ? <br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==== Endstops ====<br />
<br />
See [[Endstop]].<br />
<br />
==== Extruder Controller ====<br />
<br />
Also see: [[toolcontroller]]<br />
<br />
== Overview ==<br />
<br />
The page [[RepRapElectronics]] has a good high-level description of what the electronics do and how they connect to the rest of the system.<br />
The standard, well-tested RepRap electronics are described at [[circuit board construction]].<br />
Various ways of mounting and cooling RepRap electronics (whether standard or nonstandard) are described at [[Electronics Improvements]].<br />
<br />
Many people have come up with ideas for improving on those electronics.<br />
We list and compare and contrast some of those ideas here.<br />
<br />
Feel free to download the current version of<br />
[http://sourceforge.net/projects/reprap/files/Electronics/ the RepRap electronics on SourceForge]<br />
and make improvements, rather than starting from scratch.<br />
<br />
If you want to know about the weird naming convention/s being used here, including the strange ( and broken) "Gen X" nomenclature, please see [[Electronics_Variations]].<br />
<br />
==Overview Electronics Pages==<br />
<br />
* [[Mendel Buyers Guide]] and [[PartsSupplies]] list a few places to buy a complete kit of electronics<br />
* [[circuit board construction]] -- the standard RepRap electronics, currently Mendel<br />
<br />
<br />
==Recommended==<br />
: ''main: [[list of electronics]]''<br />
<br />
* [[RAMPS]] -- An [[Arduino Mega]] shield-type board. Very popular.<br />
* [[Sanguinololu]] -- a low-cost expandable all in one solution<br />
* [[R2C2_RepRap_Electronics|R2C2 electronics]] -- complete solution, quality and fast electronics, a really new generation of electronics for RepRap 3D printers and others like RapMan. Professional made but also development/hack friendly :-)<br />
* [[Smoothieboard]] -- modern, fast, easy to use all-in-one solution. 32bit with web interface<br />
* [[Generation 7 Electronics]] -- easy single board solution, designed for do-it-yourself.<br />
* [[Generation 6 Electronics]] -- easy plug n play electronics, single board solution<br />
* [[Pololu Electronics]] -- very simple electronics that can be printed by RepRap itself. Can also be built on stripboard. Fully tested, and supported by the standard RepRap software.<br />
* [[SAV MkI]] -- an inexpensive yet feature rick controller board designed within the Spanish RepRap community [[Proyecto_Clone_Wars|Clone Wars Project]]<br />
<br />
== Experimental, and New ( your new design goes here till at least independently reviewed ) ==<br />
* [[Danguinololu]] -- A fully-integrated board with excellent cooling and debug facilities and easy-to-solder motor drivers, inspired by the [[Sanguinololu]] schematic.<br />
* [[Gen_L_Electronics]] -- Designed to be very low cost, easy to assemble, but tethered to a computer via USB<br />
* [[StepStick]] A low-cost drop in replacement for Pololus motor drivers - A4983/A4988<br />
* [[Repic]] -- "as simple as possible" all-in-one electronics based on PIC18F4550 or PIC24, on single-sided, through-hole PCB.<br />
* [[Easy_electronics]] -- Sanguinololu firmware compatible board for dual extruder operation with built in 128x64 dots graphic LCD, click encoder wheel, SD-Card connector and USB interface. Easy to use all in one solution.<br />
* [[STB_Electronics]] -- Sanguinololu firmware compatible board with graphic LCD, click encoder wheel, SD-Card and USB<br />
* [[Melzi]] -- Sanguinololu firmware compatible board.<br />
* [[MaKrMelzi]] -- improved Melzi board with exchangeable driver modules and support for graphical LCD<br />
* [[Azteeg_X1]] -- SMD remix of Sanguinololu +more.<br />
* [[Harvey]] -- STM32F102 Cortex-M3 allmost-all-smd compact extendable all in one board ftw<br />
* [[Megatronics]] -- Improvement over RAMPS, single board solutions with a lot of options. Very cheap compared to other options<br />
* [[Rambo]] -- RepRap Arduino-compatible Mother Board : All in one RAMPS<br />
* [[RUMBA]] -- R.eprap U.niversal M.ega B.oard with A.llegro driver : All in one RAMPS<br />
* [[Phoenix]] -- easy for beginners to construct and repair: all through-hole parts<br />
* [[All In One Electronics]]<br />
* [[Brainwave]]<br />
* [[grblShield]] ([http://blog.makezine.com/arduino/grbl/], [http://www.synthetos.com/wiki/index.php?title=Projects:grblShield]), from the same people who brought you [[grbl]].<br />
* [[Cheaptronic]]<br />
<br />
== Deprecated and Older Electronics pages ==<br />
<br />
: ''main page: [[List of Abandoned and Deprecated Electronics]]''<br />
<br />
* [[Generation 4 Electronics]] -- makerbot electronics<br />
* [[Generation 3 Electronics]] -- also the standard Mendel RepRap electronics<br />
* [[Generation 3 Electronics/Tech Zone Remix]] -- Gen3 electronics with a more compact layout<br />
* [[Generation2Electronics | Generation 2 Electronics]] -- a set of electronics still working for current machine designs. Some prefer it, as it's easier to solder (no SMD).<br />
* [[Gen2OnABoard]]<br />
* [[BuildingTheCommonElectronicsForAllTheControlBoards]] -- the earlier standard boards for Darwin<br />
* [[Laser Cutter]] control electronics are very different from motor drivers and extruder controllers.<br />
* [[Hacks to the RepRap Extruder Controller v2.2]]<br />
* [[Hacks to the RepRap Motherboard v1.1]]<br />
* [[PCB adaptions for Mendel]] -- converting the fully-assembled MakerBot CupCake electronics to use screw terminals for RepRap<br />
* [[BuildingAStripboardStepperController]] -- deprecated.<br />
* [[MakeIDCCable]] -- the cables used in many (most? all?) RepRaps and RepStraps.<br />
* [[4 Axis TB6560 CNC Stepper Motor Driver Board Controller]] -- 4 Axis TB6560 CNC Stepper Motor Driver Board Controller (4+1 channel CNC board ment to be used from parallel port but can be easily used from mcu. Includes opto insulation, 4 stepper channels and 1 relay. Includes large heat sink and is capable of running steppers up to 24V, 3A)<br />
<br />
== DIY Circuit Board Manufacturing ==<br />
<br />
* According to some estimates, the vast majority of RepRap and RepStrap machines use one of the above custom PCBs specifically designed for RepRap and fabbed by a commercial PCB fabricator. [[Mendel Buyers Guide]] and [[PartsSupplies]] lists some of the places selling such PCBs, either the empty PCB or the assembled PCBA with all the parts already soldered on.<br />
<br />
* Many developers assemble extremely experimental electronic prototypes on bits of [http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Special%3ASearch&search=stripboard stripboard][http://3dreplicators.com/New%20Front%20Page/Documentation/Tools/Stripboard%20designer.htm]. See the "Stripboard Designer" section of [[Useful Software Packages]].<br />
<br />
* A few developers assemble extremely experimental electronic prototypes on solderless breadboard -- [[Tri Duino Stepper]], [[Teensy Breadboard]], etc.<br />
<br />
* A few developers fabricate their own custom PCBs with a relatively crude homebrew process:<br />
** [[PCB Milling| single-sided PCB milling]]<br />
** [[MakePCBInstructions| single sided PCB etching]]<br />
** [[DIY PCBs double sided toner transfer| double-sided PCB etching]]<br />
** [[Automated Circuitry Making]]<br />
<br />
== Theoretical ==<br />
Various pie-in-the-sky ideas ...<br />
<br />
* One of the more fascinating ideas is to use the RepRap itself to help manufacture the next generation of electronics. We talk more about that idea on the [[Automated Circuitry Making]] page.<br />
* Is it possible to build a RepRap that, instead of using the standard [[Stepper Motor Driver 2.3]] boards, instead used some other stepper motor driver boards? perhaps the open-source OpenStepper boards ( from http://openservo.com/ ) or the open-source Linistepper ( from http://www.romanblack.com/lini.htm )?<br />
* Is it possible to build a RepRap that, instead of using stepper motors, instead used slower, smaller, cheaper hobby R/C servo motors?<br />
** perhaps driven by the servo motor driver board plus magnetic encoder board combination -- [[MagServo]] or [http://openservo.com/OpenEncoder OpenEncoder] )?<br />
** perhaps driven by the servo motor board plus a sub-$2 mechanical encoder?[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,14785,15009#msg-15009]<br />
* Is it possible to build a RepRap that, instead of using stepper motors, uses faster, bigger, more expensive DC motors?<br />
* Is it possible to build a RepRap that, instead of using stepper motors, uses faster, bigger, more expensive AC motors?<br />
* Is it possible to build a RepRap that, instead of using stepper motors, uses nitinol shape-memory wire?<br />
* Is it possible to build a RepRap that can print photovoltaic cells?<br />
* Is it possible to build a RepRap that, instead of using 8-bit Atmel AVR microcontrollers, instead uses 32-bit ARM microcontrollers -- perhaps one of the ones listed at [[Vaporware Electronics]] ?<br />
* Rather than limit the HW to a set number of Axis, [[Dynamically expandable Bus Driven Approach]]<br />
<br />
== Goals ==<br />
<br />
See [[Development Pathway]] for goals and ideas for improving RepRap in general.<br />
Here, we focus ideas for improving the electronics alone.<br />
<br />
There are a variety of ways of "improving" the RepRap electronics -- but, alas, several of these ways conflict with each other:<br />
* reduce the net cost of all the motors and electronics and connectors, when fabricated and assembled at commercial PCB fab and board assembly house in high volumes. This seems to imply putting everything on one board, eliminating the cost of connectors between boards; eliminating parts that are not absolutely essential to run a single RepRap with a single extruder; and using tiny narrow-pitch surface-mount components packed tightly together, to reduce the size and therefore cost of the PCB.<br />
* add one or more features that early RepRap electronics doesn't have<br />
** SD card reader and LCD screen so that it can run "stand-alone" disconnected from any PC host.<br />
** high-power stepper drivers to drive bigger, faster RepRaps<br />
** 7 stepper drivers so it can run 3 axis plus 4 extruder heads -- a [[Mendel Multiple Extruder]] -- or a [[Stewart platform]] plus 1 extruder head, etc.<br />
** lots of thermistors so it can occasionally pause and wait for motors and motor drivers to cool off if necessary, rather than covering them with enough heavy heat sinks to cover the worst case.<br />
** all the stuff necessary to interface with [[RepRapServo 1 0#linear magnetic position sensing | magnetic linear encoders]] or [[Optical encoders 01 | optical linear encoders]] to directly measure the position of the tool head. This lets the firmware immediately detect and correct "skipped steps" ... and also enables [[microstepping with optical feedback]] that may give higher positioning precision.<br />
* make it possible for people to fab the boards with a relatively crude homebrew process -- perhaps one of the [[Automated Circuitry Making]] techniques. This implies spacing parts relatively far apart to leave more room for the relatively wide isolation gaps and wide traces these techniques produce.<br />
* As far as possible, use only widely-available parts that are unlikely to go obsolete soon -- available from multiple manufacturers, etc.<br />
* Lots of flexibility to allow a variety of "functional units" to be substituted. Then the assembler can use whatever is cheapest at the time and location. Easy to switch to alternate parts if the original parts are unavailable. Easy to experiment by temporarily swapping in a new functional unit to test if it is really better than the old unit. Easy to upgrade just one functional unit if a better unit becomes available -- less buggy, more fault-tolerant, faster, more power-efficient, etc.<br />
* Each motor driver on a separate board, for the reasons listed at [http://pminmo.com/PMinMOwiki/index.php5?title=Main_Page#Why_Modular_Designs PMinMO: "Why Modular Designs?"].<br />
* make it possible for people to assemble all the parts on the boards with relatively crude soldering tools -- this implies easy-to-solder parts, either through-hole parts or large wide-pitch surface-mount parts.<br />
<br />
Perhaps the biggest philosophical conflict between RepRap PCB designers is between people who are aiming in two very different directions:<br />
* A completely stand-alone RepRap. A person turns on the RepRap, presses buttons on the RepRap to select "measuring cup" on its small LCD panel, and then the RepRap prints out a measuring cup. Since there is no PC hooked to it, all computation is done internally with a medium-cost processor, and all status shows up on the LCD panel and a few dozen blinking LEDs.<br />
* A "3D printer" as a dedicated computer peripheral. A person designs a new measuring cup on a full-size computer running his favorite operating system and his favorite [[Useful Software Packages#2D and 3D CAD software | 3D CAD software]], hits "print", and then the RepRap prints out a measuring cup. Since it's hooked up to a PC with a (relatively) fast processor and (relatively) huge display screen, it offloads as much computation and status display as possible to the PC. The internal low-cost processor handles the remaining [[Elegant_multispline_motion_controller#real-time_tasks | real-time tasks]] that cannot be done by the PC.<br />
<br />
== Testing ==<br />
<br />
* Does it work at all? [[Testing RepRap Electronics]]<br />
* How do I use the [http://sourceforge.net/project/shownotes.php?release_id=514150 RepRap Stepper Tester]?<br />
* How do I use the [http://opencircuits.com/Stepper_Motor_Tester OpenCircuits Stepper Tester]?<br />
* Does it shut off properly when it overheats or slams into an end-stop?<br />
* What is the cost compared to the standard RepRap electronics?<br />
* Does it print things faster than the standard RepRap electronics?<br />
* Does it print things more accurately than the standard RepRap electronics?<br />
<br />
The process of releasing improved electronic designs in a way that makes it easy for other people to use and make further improvements is described at [[ElectronicsReleaseProcess]].<br />
<br />
== Further Reading ==<br />
<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?13 RepRap Electronics forum] -- mostly talks about things that have gone wrong; perhaps you can figure out how to make future electronics less vulnerable to these problems.<br />
** [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,33975,41547 Reprap Electronics Development] specifically discusses developing new electronics.<br />
* The [[Mailing Lists]] at [http://lists.reprap.org/mailman/listinfo/reprap-dev reprap-dev -- RepRap 3D printing development] often talks about developing electronics.<br />
* [[Mechanical Computer]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electronics development| ]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics| ]]<br />
* [http://reprap.org/wiki/Build_a_reprap Electronics]</div>
DavidCary