ToyREP Build Manual
English • العربية • български • català • česky • Deutsch • Ελληνικά • español • فارسی • français • hrvatski • magyar • italiano • română • 日本語 • 한국어 • lietuvių • Nederlands • norsk bokmål • polski • português • русский • Türkçe • українська • 中文（中国大陆） • 中文（台灣） • עברית • azərbaycanca •
Welcome on the building manual page of ToyREP 3D Printer. Here you will find step-by-step walkthrough the construction of the printer, wiring electronics, firmware settings and calibration, so you can achieve the best performance of your printer.
Most of the pictures were taken after construction of first prototype. Some nuts, or other vitamins are already glued or attached to their position. There are also few minor changes described in text against what you can see on the pictures. If you are not sure what to do, please follow the text or contact me on thorgal(at)atlas(dot)cz.
Please read the complete manual before you will even order any parts or start construction works.
I am sorry for any mistakes that may appear in any documentations for the printer and would like to ask you kindly to give me a notice of any problem you will find on thorgal(at)atlas(dot)cz. Despite my genuine regret I cannot be held responsible for any loses or injuries caused by assembling or operation of the ToyREP 3D printer.
Print the parts as per your desired size and functions of the printer. You can collect them at Thingiverse.
The prototype was printed from 3mm thick ABS with 0.5mm nozzle, 0.25mm thick layer, 2 outlines, 3 top and bottom layers, 30% hexagonal infill. Total consumption of plastic is in the BoM. You can use your own proven setup. Only ABS is highly recommended to follow up as some parts will get quite hot.
Printed parts should be cleaned form residual and overflown plastic. Clean the holes For M3, M4 and M8 Threaded rods, screws and nuts.
Before the assembly, all parts suggested by the BoM should be collected.
Also change the 28BYJ-48 stepper motors to bi-polar by this hack: http://www.electronicsmayhem.com/?p=13 . Be very careful when removing the plastic cap, because you can tear apart the tiny wires coming from coils!!!
- Drills of diameter 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 8mm
- Needle Files
- Phillips screwdriver of right size (or other, if you use different screw heads)
- Two wrenches No.13 for M8 Nuts.
- Cutter or scissors
- Soldering Iron
Bottom X Rods
Bottom Z Frame
Rear Y Frame
Front Y Frame
Y Axis Frame
|8||M8 Hex Nut|
|2||Frog extenders. Use Frog_100 for 100x100mm print area or Frog_125 for 125x125mm print area|
|4||M4 Hex Nut|
|4||M4x50 Countersunk Screws|
|4||M3 Nylock Nut|
Frog Installation, Y Axis Completion
|2||Ø8x225mm Smooth Rod||Alternatively 245mm long for PSU2 and/or 125x125mm print area or 220mm for printer with 100x100mm print area and without PSU.|
|1||T2.5x500mm Timing belt||Alternatively 520mm long for PSU2 and/or 125x125mm print area or 470mm for printer with 100x100mm print area and without PSU.|
|1||Arduino Mega 2560|
|1||RAMPS 1.4||For 100x100mm version of ToyREP You have to replace 5A and 11A PSU plugs with suitable screw terminals!!!|
|4||Stepper Driver DRV8825||Alternatively with A4988|
X Axis Completion
|1||120x120x3mm Polycarbonate Plate||Mounting holes in corners 105x105mm apart. Bigger bed is 145x145x3mm with mounting holes 130x130mm apart.|
|4||M3x25mm Countersunk Screw|
|8||M3 washer||Eventually M4 Washers|
If you finished all the steps above, you have assembled and levelled printer. You are ready to proceed to ToyREP User Manual
There are few things you can do differently from the default set-up. Usage of bigger PSU and bigger print area is already described in the Build Manual above. Those require only different set of plastic parts or rods, but generally may be done the same way as default set-up. Here will be mentioned differences that require their own manual.
Geared Z Max
|1||Top left Z joint|
|1||Top right Z joint|
|2||Ø8/5x8mm PVC Tube|
|4||M5 Hex Nut|
Instead of geared extruder, you can install only bowden hotend and use your own bowden extruder. For that the list of parts is much simpler:
Basically omit all the steps for extruder body. Instead, start with fan mount and secure E3D clone bowden hotend by the small U shaped mount in which 2 M3 nylock nuts will be inserted. Mount the hotend on the carriage, tie up the cables, lead them to the RAMPS and you are done.