Funbot i1

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Funbot i1

Release status: working

Funbot i1.jpg
Description Funbot i1
License CC-BY-SA
Author Cliff Mellangård / Reprap österlen
Based-on Smartrap
Categories RepRap machines, Cartesian-XZ-head
CAD Models [1]
External Link [2]

Reprap österlen Sweden!

Do simply only have one member (ME) so far but I hope we will grow soon.

I have built reprap machines since august 2013.


About Funbot i1

Work in progress. Look on the thingiverse page until this is done.

The main goal of this printer design is simplicity,cheap and easy to build,I might even call it a toy printer to help people to get interested in the wonders of 3D printing.

I wanted to share my creation here as it was the RepRap community that helped me build my first printer - a wood box frame Prusa i3.

This printer uses printed LM10UU and chromed water pipes instead of rods, and standard LM10UU bearings,this makes it very silent also while printing that is a good thing when you live in a apartment.

Printing Dimensions


(Updated 2015-01-17)


The BOM will be added as it is developed, so please be patient.

My fellow RepRaper Wayne Friedt has allowed me to include his case for the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller. I have modified to fit this bot. The cool thing with this case is that it also hides most of the cables and makes it look cleaner.

My 3D Philappines on Facebook

BOM so far:

Wood for the Base

I use a 12 mm thick MDF wooden board with the dimensions 280x240 mm for the base.

Bed material

The dimensions of the two bed plates are 210x190 mm

I use 3 mm thick acrylic plastic that is laminated with brushed aluminum on both sides that you buy very easy at any Home Depot or carpenters store.

I used 3 mm thick only because it was the thickness that was available at my local store, but if you find 4-6 mm thick at yours, that would be even better.

This would give better stability to the bed area, but is not necessary as it works also with 3 mm.

(3 mm material will bend slightly when adjusting levelling screws etc., but is rock solid during printing)

In the countries where you live, it may be called Plexiglas, Lexan or something else. This is the plain plastic (acrylic) sheets they sell to cover broken windows or as protection screen on CNC machines.

Here in Sweden, where they sold as kitchen/bedroom cabin door covers.

You will also nead a glas plate in the same dimension to print on.

And 2 paper clips to hold it in place.

(Updated 2015-01-17)

Be carefull while drilling plastic parts!!!!!

Keep in mind to drill up the holes for the 10mm pipes in reverse on your drill so will you not crack anything and get a better surface to slide in the pipes.

M3 screws,nuts,washers

Z coupler uses (4) 20mm long screws and the same amount of nuts.
Wood screws are used to attach parts to the wooden base.


You will need around 2.5-3 meters of chromed copper water pipes with the outer dimension of 10 mm. I found that if you buy them in 1 meter lengths so are it easier to find straight ones. 2 meters where usually very bent during shipping! (The US has other dimensions, and 3/8" (9.5248 mm) should work as well as European 10 mm.)

If you build one in the US with these pipes, let me know that everything works ok? If you experience a wobbly sensation with us pipes so simply scale down the bearing part to 98-99 in slicer as it should not affect the rest of it to much. With enough requests so will I try to do some official US parts to the 3/8" (9.5 mm) pipes for the printer. The main pieces should not be a problem as you always need to drill them to insert the 10 mm pipes.
X-axis = 2 pipes 320 mm (print size 155)
Y-axis = 2 pipes 270 mm (print size 170)
Z-axis = 3 pipes 290 mm (print size 110-120)

Optional - Spool holder = Two pipes 100-160 mm (This is more or less how you want it) (I used 160 in my videos)

(2) 270 mm long pipes.
(2) 320 mm long pipes.
(2) 290 mm long pipes.
Total = 2050 mm (slightly above 2 meters)

(updated 2015-01-17)

Threaded Rods

(1) M8 threaded rod 210-220 mm long for Z-axis. (210 mm works for long motor shafts.)

(Keep in mind that many motors have various lengths on the shaft, so to be sure you should probably add 10-20 mm to the Z-axis threaded rod to get the same print height that I state.)

(updated 2015-03-30)


The supplied end stop mount for the Z axis is not mine and is a placeholder, as it is the Prusa i3 Rework's - I simply cut it to fit a 10 mm pipe.


You need (2) 624zz skateboard bearings for the belt drive. You need (1) 608zz bearing for the z axis threaded rod.

(2) 624zz
(1) 608zz


You need (3) NEMA17 Stepper Motors!

1 - 2 amp motors as the extruder I use comes with one already attached and is cheap.

The motors in the video are 1.7 amp motors, and were used because I had them at home.

The length of the motors I use are 40 mm, but that should matter as long as you use motors that are close to that length.

It is more critical to have a motor close to 40 mm on the Z axis, as there are some very small ones that will affect the stability on the Z axis if used there.

You should be able to use shorter motors on the other places on the printer, like the X and Y axis.

Part Sources

I bought my extruder here:

Very long delivery time 3-5 weeks from china.

I recently found these on eBay and works just as well, and are made in the UK. They have 1-2 week delivery and improved nozzle and only slightly more expensive.

(updated 2015-01-17)

I bought my power supply here....

Marlin Firmware

I will try to upload my prototype marlin code in a compressed file but its pretty straight forward and easy to set up. Here is some typical settings that need to be changed in your Configuration.h file:

#define INVERT_X_DIR true    // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true  
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false    // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false // My mendel prusa wanted it like orca  
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true     // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true  
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false  
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false    // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false  
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false  

Use this in the beginning and then expand when you see that this is working ok.

// Travel limits after homing  
#define X_MAX_POS 145  
#define X_MIN_POS 0  
#define Y_MAX_POS 150  
#define Y_MIN_POS 0  
#define Z_MAX_POS 110  
#define Z_MIN_POS 0  

This is stil temporary but is a start.

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   { 80 ,80 , 2560, 105.90192}  
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {450, 450, 2.5, 32}    // (mm/sec)  
// X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.  
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {4500,4500,50,3200}   
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          1000    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves  
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  1000   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts  
// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously)  
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                10.0    // (mm/sec)  
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4     // (mm/sec)  
#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5   // (mm/sec)  

Don't forget to remove // in front of the line that enables your type of LCD you use!!!!!!


The Slic3r configuration needs to be loaded manually, and then save each section in Slic3r if you don't want to do this manually every time. I will also upload this soon.

Some other peoples designs being used.

Lm10uu replacement.

Use this for a z coupler until i make one of my own.

Mixed videos

( Videos have ads to fund my builds )

Assembly Videos

( Videos have ads to fund my builds )

Part 1 - 2

Part 3 - 4

Printer updates done while I developed the design