https://reprap.org/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=XoanSampai%C3%B1o&feedformat=atomRepRap - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T07:46:30ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.30.0https://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Mendel_Overview/fr&diff=182648Mendel Overview/fr2018-06-07T17:15:38Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Mendel Overview}}<br />
<br />
{{Template:Mendel Documentation Header|Mechanical Construction}}<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
La vidéo çi-dessous est une introduction directe au design de la mendel.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">6865848|640|480</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
L'image çi-dessous identifie les axes de la Mendel:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Mendel GA axes designation.JPEG|640px|Assemblage général de la Mendel]]<br />
<br />
== Compréhension de base ==<br />
<br />
Avant d'assembler il est important de comprendre les concepts mecaniques clés sous-tendants les axes:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">6983001|640|480</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Amélioration du design de la Mendel ==<br />
<br />
Il n'est pas essentiel de regarder avant d'assembler, mais si vous avez précedemment eu une Darwin (la première imprimante RepRap) vous souhaitez peut-être connaitre les améliorations que la mendel apportera<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">6983001|640|480</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
----<br />
Retour vers [[Mendel mechanical construction/fr]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Mendel_materials_procurement/fr&diff=182647Mendel materials procurement/fr2018-06-07T17:15:17Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Mendel materials procurement}}<br />
<br />
{{Template:Mendel Documentation Header|Mechanical Construction}}<br />
<br />
Alors, de quoi avez-vous besoin et où l'obtenir?<br />
<br />
La quantité de pièces et les vendeurs suggérés sont dans la [[Mendel assembly data sheet|fiche technique de l'assemblage d'une Mendel]].<br />
<br />
A partir de la liste des matériaux (BOM) vous verrez qu'il vous faut au moins 10 types différents de matériaux. '''Avant d'acheter quoi que ce soit''', voiçi une information importante que vous devriez savoir, incluant une [[#Costing|ventillation des coûts]] à la fin:<br />
<br />
Cette page "Obtention des matériaux de la Mendel" part du principe que vous voulez construire une Mendel, et s'en tient à un ensemble de pièces Mendel RepRappées (peut-être produites par une Mendel identique, ou une Darwin, ou une des machine [[RepStraps]] qu'il y a là bas).<br />
Si vous ne pouvez vous en tenir à un ensemble de pièces RepRappées Mendel ou ou que vous vouliez vous construire une variante, zappez cette page et allez à la page des [[PartsSupplies|pièces détachées]].<br />
<br />
== Les barres ==<br />
<br />
: ''Page principale sur les: [[smooth rod|barres lisses]]''<br />
<br />
Toutes les barres ont un diamètre 8mm.<br />
De manière générale vous pourrez bien survivre avec des "Plaquées Zinc Brillante" (BZP).<br />
BZP sera meilleur qu'en Acier Doux Brillant (BMS pour Bright Mild Steel) parce que BMS rouillera à moins d'être revêtu d'huile.<br />
L'acier A2 sera mieux et sera plus rigide, mais reste plus cher. L'aluminium n'est pas recommandé parce qu'il se courbera, et ploie façilement lorsqu'un roulement passe dessus. Elles sont toutefois plus façile à couper.<br />
C'est mieux d'acheter en longueures d'1m puis de couper à bonne taille.<br />
Voir la [[Mendel assembly data sheet|fiche technique d'assemblage de la Mendel]] pour connaitre le nombre de longueures d'1 mètre requises.<br />
<br />
== Roulements et courroies. ==<br />
<br />
La Mendel n'est pas impactée par de grosses charges sur aucuns de ses roulements, de plus des roulements de haute volée ne sont pas nécessaires. '''Prenez les mooins chère que vous trouverez'''.<br />
<br />
Vous aurez besoin de:<br />
* 48 en 624ZZ<br />
* 2 en 608ZZ<br />
<br />
Il est possible d'avoir un [[Mendel Bearing Kits|kit de roulement Mendel]] de certains fournisseurs et ça reste le moyen le moins chère d'obtenir ce dont vous avez besoin.<br />
<br />
* [[Belt|Courroies]]<br />
<br />
== Pièces d'extrudeur ==<br />
<br />
Le design de l'extrudeur est fréquement mis à jour: Verifiez la page de [[Mendel extruder|l'extrudeur Mendel]] pour la dernière documentation d'obtention/préparation en date.<br />
<br />
== Fixations ==<br />
<br />
Des pièces BZP bon marché feront l'affaire.<br />
Mendel utilise deux différents types d'écrou: autobloquants (ceux avec du nylon) et standards. Comme alternative aux autobloquants, vous pourrez préférer n'utiliser que des écrous standards et mettre un composé de fixation de filettage, par exemple de la LocTite 243, et en appliquer partout où un autobloquant aurait du être. Un [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread-locking_fluid bloqueur de filettage] est un composé qui prends même en abscence d'air.<br />
<br />
== Moteurs ==<br />
<br />
Mendel à été conçue pour répondre aux spécifications de moteur pas à pas NEMA 17 ou NEMA 14. Vous avez besoin approximativement de 1400 g.cm ou plus de couple pour être tranquille. Achetez au plus simple et au moins cher. Il y a une page avec une liste de vendeurs de [[Mendel Stepping Motors|moteur pas à pas pour Mendel]].<br />
<br />
== PCB/Electronique ==<br />
<br />
Vous aurez besoin d'une kit d'électronique completement assemblé (les directives d'assemblage sont [[Circuit_board_construction/fr|içi]]). Vous pouvez acheter ceçi dejà tout assemblé et prêt à fonctionner ou en kit que vous pourrez [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/HotplateReflowTechnique souder vous même].<br />
<br />
== Feuille minces ==<br />
<br />
Elles sontt requises pour les drapeaux optoswitch (ndt: détrompeurs de commutation optionnelle?). L'épaisseur doit être moins de 2mm. Vous aurez besoin d'une surface totale minimum de 8 cm x 5 cm. Le materiau doit être opaque à la lumière infrarouge. (L'optoswitch utilise la lumière IR). Le matériau ne doit pas non plus réflechir (comme une cannette brillante par ex) - couvrir le bout avec du scotch ou une fine couche de peinture est ok. Le materiaux doit être pliable (façile à mettre en forme). Les feuilles d'aluminium sont bonnes. Certains néozelandais sont connus pour utiliser des canettes de bière, qui sont façiles à couper avec des siseaux de cuisine... Découper une canette en étain peut produire un endflag bien plus rigide.<br />
<br />
== Pièces RepRapées ==<br />
<br />
[[Image:total-build-in-440x440-envelope.PNG|thumb|Mendel's reprapped parts]]<br />
<br />
Vous devez prendre possession d'un ensemble de pièces RepRapées. Si vous avez accès à une RepRap Mendel, alors les [http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/MultipleMaterialsFiles fichiers RFO] pour toutes les parties pour une RepRap Mendel sont dans le téléchargement à [https://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/svnroot/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/RFO-files/ mendel/mechanics/RFO-files]. Chargez les simplement, compilez le gcode à partir d'eux, et Reprappez les . Le temps que prends la machine pour les imprimer tous est de presque exactement deux jours.<br />
<br />
Beaucoup de gens vont upgradder à Mendel depuis leur version 1 "Darwin". Darwin peut imprimer toute les pièces Mendel. Ainsi en est-il également de toutes les machines dérivées et comercialisés de RepRp disponibles chez les vendeurs de la [http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/PartsSupplies page d'obtention de kit RepRap]. Il y a une [http://dev.forums.reprap.org/list.php?94 page sur les forums RepRap] où des gens offrent des pièces RepRapées à la vente, et encore [http://dev.forums.reprap.org/list.php?95 une autre où des gens demandent des notices]. Enfin, si vous connaissez quelqu'un avec une RepRap qui puisse imprimer les pièces pour vous, offrez lui donc des bières...<br />
<br />
* Les fichiers de modèles solides pour les parties imprimés du robot cartésien sont disponibles [https://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/svnroot/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/cartesian-robot-m4/printed-parts individuellement], ou en tant que [http://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/viewvc/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/cartesian-robot-m4/printed-parts.tar.gz?view=tar GNU tarball].<br />
* Les fichiers de modèles solides pour les parties imprimés de l'extrudeur mendel sont disponibles [https://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/svnroot/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/extruders/pinch-wheel/wedge-604 içi].<br />
<br />
Voyez le thumbnail pour un glossaire visuel de toutes les pièces RP.<br />
<br />
[[Image:printed-parts-glossary.PNG|thumb|Reprapped parts glossary. Please note there are two parts on here called '''y-bearing-180_0off.par''' and '''y-bearing-360_0off.par''' that you don't need any copies of.]]<br />
<br />
Une petite liste de service commerciaux de Prototype Rapide est [http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/PartsSupplies içi], mais soyez averti, les échoppes RP facturent généralement à des taux exorbitants.<br />
<br />
Quelques infos de plus sur ce que vous devriez imprimer, et combien de temps ça prendra içi: [[Mendel parts more info|Plus d'info sur les pièces Mendel]].<br />
<br />
== Feuilles épaisses ==<br />
<br />
Ces feuilles doivent se situer entre 4 et 6mm d'épaisseur. Vous aurez besoin d'une surface totale minimum de 42 cm x 40 cm. '''Votre feuille doit être plate puisque c'est sur elle que vous imprimerez'''. Le MDF (Medium Density Fibre Board = Plaque de Fibre Densité Moyenne) est parfait puisqu'il peut être coupé au laser ou à la scie aisement et est habituellement très plat. De plus c'est pas cher. Le contre-plaqué est une bonne option si vous avez besoin d'une rigidité extra forte dans votre machine, mais c'est plus dur à travailler, même avec une scie ou un découpeur laser. Si vous utilisez des polymers assurez-vous que c esoit plat. Le polymer projeté est le plus plat mais ne se coupera pas au laser aussi bien que le polymler extrudé. Quoique le polymer extrudé ne soit, en outre, pas vraiement plat...Quant vous entreposez des plaques, mettez les toujours face contre terre sur du plat, les empiler sur leurs tranches ruinera leur platitude.<br />
<br />
== Poteaux ==<br />
<br />
Tout les poteaux (''i.e.'' [[threaded rod|tige filetté]]) sont en M8. Mendel utilise un guide fileté pour contrôler l'axe des Z, donc assurez-vous que ceux-çi puissent se visser librement dans un écrou M8. BZP est bon, l'acier galvanisé peut être trop grippant et faire que l'axe s'enraille, se coince. C'est mieux d'acheter en longeur de 1m puis de couper à la bonne taille. Voir la [[Mendel assembly data sheet|fiche tehnique d'asemblage des Mendel]] pour plus de détails.<br />
<br />
Avec des longueurs spécifiées en mm, les poteaux de la Mendel peuvent être coupé en 8 bâtons comme suit:<br />
<br />
stud=poteau, remainder=chute<br />
<br />
side stud + J2 + side stud<br />
1) 370 + 234 + 370, remainder=26<br />
<br />
side stud + J3 + top stud<br />
2) 370 + 157 + 440, remainder=33<br />
<br />
bottom + side + bottom<br />
3) 294 + 370 + 294, remainder=42<br />
<br />
bottom + side + bottom <br />
4) 294 + 370 + 294, remainder=42<br />
<br />
lead screw + J1 + lead screw<br />
5) 330 + 290 + 330, remainder=50<br />
<br />
long z base + top stud<br />
6) 418 + 440, remainder=142<br />
<br />
side stud + long z base<br />
7) 370 + 418, remainder=212<br />
<br />
short z base + short z base<br />
8) 355 + 355, remainder=290<br />
<br />
== Coûts ==<br />
<br />
Notez que l'analyse des coût çi-dessous est ancienne. Verifiez la [[Mendel assembly data sheet|fiche technique d'assemblage des Mendel]] pour des données sur les coûts revues à la baisse.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Cost type<br />
! UK estimate<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Bar||£11.19||RS<br />
|-<br />
| Bearings||£31.20||RS<br />
|-<br />
| Belt||£23.33||RS<br />
|-<br />
| Extruder parts||£15.00||Estimate<br />
|-<br />
| Fasteners||£22.09||Orbital Fasteners<br />
|-<br />
| Motors||£51.66||Assumes 4x NEMA 17s (www.motioncontrolproducts.co.uk) +delivery<br />
|-<br />
| PCB/Electronics||£110.00||Zach\'s Gen3 electronics<br />
|-<br />
| Thin sheet||£0.00||Beer can<br />
|-<br />
| RP||£20.00||Assumes no commission<br />
|-<br />
| Thick sheet||£20.00||Estimate<br />
|-<br />
| Studding||£4.86||Orbital Fasteners<br />
|- style="font-weight:bold; background-color:#f0c000"<br />
| Total||£309.33 + Motor delivery||<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Image:cost-breakdown.PNG|500px]]<br />
<br />
'''This needs updating!/|\'''<br />
|<br />
<br />
== Coûts révisés ==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Cost type<br />
! UK estimate<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Bar||£11.19||RS<br />
|-<br />
| Bearings||£17.95||[[Mendel Bearing Kits]]<br />
|-<br />
| Belt||£14.79||Camiel [http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/belts.html Mendel-Parts.com]<br />
|-<br />
| Extruder parts||£30.00||Estimate<br />
|-<br />
| Fasteners||£18.63 + £7.95||Orbital Fasteners + Shipping<br />
|-<br />
| Motors||£40.89||Assumes 4x NEMA 17s <br />
SY42STH47-1684B Camiel [http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/motors.html Motor kit]<br />
|-<br />
| PCB/Electronics||£113 + £10||Camiel's [http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/electronics-1/sets.html Gen6 electronics] + Shipping<br />
|-<br />
| RP||£95.00|| RepRap Ltd.<br />
|-<br />
| Thick & Thin sheet||£51.34||Camiel [http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/thick-thin-sheet.html Sheet kit]<br />
|-<br />
| Studding||£6.66||Orbital Fasteners<br />
|- style="font-weight:bold; background-color:#f0c000"<br />
| Total||£396.45||<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
----</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Mendel_materials_procurement&diff=182646Mendel materials procurement2018-06-07T17:14:58Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Mendel materials procurement}}<br />
<br />
{{Template:Mendel Documentation Header|Mechanical Construction}}<br />
<br />
So what do you need and where do you get the parts?<br />
<br />
Part quantities and suggested suppliers are in the [[Mendel assembly data sheet]].<br />
<br />
From the bill of materials (BOM) you'll see that you need to get hold of about 10 different types of materials. '''Before you buy anything''', here is some important information you should know, including a [[#Costing|cost breakdown]] at the end:<br />
<br />
This "Mendel materials procurement" page assumes you want to build a Mendel, and can get hold of a set of reprapped Mendel parts (perhaps produced on an identical Mendel, or on a Darwin, or on one of the [[RepStraps]] machines out there).<br />
If you can't get hold of a set of reprapped Mendel parts, or you want to build some other RepRap variant, skip this page and go to the [[PartsSupplies]] page.<br />
<br />
== Bar ==<br />
<br />
: ''main article: [[smooth rod]]''<br />
<br />
All bar is ø 8 mm diameter.<br />
Generally you can survive just fine on “Bright Zinc Plated" (BZP).<br />
BZP is better than Bright Mild Steel (BMS) as BMS will rust unless coated with oil.<br />
A2 steel will feel nicer and be straighter, but is more expensive. Aluminium is not recommended because it will bow, and wear easily as the bearings pass over it. It is much easier to cut, however.<br />
It is best to buy in 1m lengths and then cut to size.<br />
See the [[Mendel assembly data sheet]] for the number of 1m lengths needed.<br />
<br />
== Bearings and Belts ==<br />
<br />
Mendel does not impart big loads on any of the bearings, therefore high specification bearings are not needed. '''Get the cheapest ones you can.'''<br />
<br />
You need:<br />
* 48 of 624ZZ<br />
* 2 of 608ZZ<br />
<br />
It is possible to get [[Mendel Bearing Kits]] from some suppliers and these are almost always the cheapest way to get what you need.<br />
<br />
*[[Belt]]<br />
<br />
== Extruder parts ==<br />
<br />
The extruder design is frequently updated: check the [[Mendel extruder|Mendel extruder page]] for the latest procurement/preparation documentation.<br />
<br />
== Fasteners ==<br />
<br />
Cheap BZP parts are fine. <br />
<br />
Mendel uses two different types of nut: nylock and standard. As an alternative to nylocks, however, you may prefer to use standard nuts and use a thread locker compound, for example brand name LocTite 243, and apply a small amount wherever a nyloc is called for. A [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread-locking_fluid thread locker] is a compound that sets in the absence of air.<br />
<br />
== Motors ==<br />
<br />
Mendel has been designed to cater for either NEMA 17 or NEMA 14 specification stepper motors. You need approximately 1400 g.cm of holding torque or more to be safe. Buy whichever is easier and cheaper for you. There is a [[Mendel Stepping Motors]] page listing suppliers at that link.<br />
<br />
== PCB/Electronics ==<br />
<br />
You’ll need a fully assembled electronics kit ([[Circuit_board_construction|the assembly directions are here]]). You can buy these ready assembled, or as a kit that you can [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/HotplateReflowTechnique solder up yourself].<br />
<br />
== Thin sheet ==<br />
<br />
This is needed for the optoswitch flags. <br />
Thickness must be less than 2 mm.<br />
You will need a minimum total area of 8 cm x 5 cm.<br />
Material must be opaque to infra-red light (the optoswitch uses IR light).<br />
Material must also not be reflective (like a shiney tin can) - covering the end with tape or a thin layer of paint is ok.<br />
Material must be pliable (easy to bend into shape).<br />
Aluminium sheet is good. Some New Zealanders have been known to use beer cans, which are easy to cut with ordinary scissors...<br />
Cutting up a tin can yields a much stiffer endflag.<br />
<br />
== Reprapped parts ==<br />
<br />
[[Image:total-build-in-440x440-envelope.PNG|thumb|Mendel's reprapped parts]]<br />
<br />
You need to get hold of a set of reprapped parts. If you have access to a RepRap Mendel, then the [http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/MultipleMaterialsFiles RFO files] for all the parts for one RepRap Mendel are in the download at [https://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/svnroot/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/RFO-files/ mendel/mechanics/RFO-files]. Simply load them up, compute GCodes from them, and reprap them. The total elapsed time that the machine has to run to do the printing is almost exactly two days.<br />
<br />
Many people will be upgrading to Mendel from RepRap Version I "Darwin". Darwin can print all Mendel's parts. So can all the commercial RepRap-derived machines available from the suppliers on the [http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/PartsSupplies Get-a-RepRap-Kit page]. There is a [http://dev.forums.reprap.org/list.php?94 page on the RepRap forums] where people offer reprapped parts for sale, and [http://dev.forums.reprap.org/list.php?95 another forum page where people post wanted notices]. Finally, if you know someone with a RepRap who could print the parts for you, offer them some beer... <br />
<br />
* Solid model files for the printed parts of the cartesian robot are available [https://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/svnroot/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/cartesian-robot-m4/printed-parts individually], or as a [http://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/viewvc/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/cartesian-robot-m4/printed-parts.tar.gz?view=tar GNU tarball].<br />
* Solid model files for the printed parts of the Mendel extruder are available [https://reprap.svn.sourceforge.net/svnroot/reprap/trunk/mendel/mechanics/solid-models/extruders/pinch-wheel/wedge-604 here].<br />
Check the thumbnail for a visual glossary of all the RP parts.<br />
<br />
[[Image:printed-parts-glossary.PNG|thumb|Reprapped parts glossary. Please note there are two parts on here called '''y-bearing-180_0off.par''' and '''y-bearing-360_0off.par''' that you don't need any copies of.]]<br />
<br />
A small list of commercial Rapid Prototyping Services is [http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/PartsSupplies here], but be warned, RP bureaux generally charge extortionate rates.<br />
<br />
Some extra info about how many of what you should print, and how long it will take here: [[Mendel parts more info]]<br />
<br />
== Thick Sheet ==<br />
<br />
Sheet must range between 4 mm - 6 mm thickness.<br />
You will need a minimum total area of 42 cm x 40 cm.<br />
'''Your sheet must be flat as this is what you’ll be printing on!''' <br />
MDF (Medium Density Fibre Board) is definitely best as it laser cuts or saws easily and is usually very flat. It is also cheap.<br />
Plywood is a good option if you require extra strength in your machine, but is harder to work with, either with a saw or a laser cutter.<br />
If using polymer make sure it is flat. Cast polymer is the flattest, but may not laser cut as well as extruded polymer. However, extruded polymer is typically not flat.<br />
When storing sheets always store them face down on a flat surface. Stacking them at an angle on their side will ruin their flatness.<br />
<br />
== Studding ==<br />
<br />
All studding (''i.e.'' [[threaded rod]]) is M8. <br />
Mendel uses a screw-drive to control the z-axis, so be sure that the studding rotates freely within an M8 nut. BZP is fine, galvanized steel can be too tight and cause the axis to jam. It is best to buy in 1m lengths and then cut to size. <br />
See the [[Mendel assembly data sheet]] for required lengths.<br />
<br />
With lengths specified in mm, Mendel studding can be cut from 8 rods as follows:<br />
<br />
side stud + J2 + side stud<br />
1) 370 + 234 + 370, remainder=26<br />
<br />
side stud + J3 + top stud<br />
2) 370 + 157 + 440, remainder=33<br />
<br />
bottom + side + bottom<br />
3) 294 + 370 + 294, remainder=42<br />
<br />
bottom + side + bottom <br />
4) 294 + 370 + 294, remainder=42<br />
<br />
lead screw + J1 + lead screw<br />
5) 330 + 290 + 330, remainder=50<br />
<br />
long z base + top stud<br />
6) 418 + 440, remainder=142<br />
<br />
side stud + long z base<br />
7) 370 + 418, remainder=212<br />
<br />
short z base + short z base<br />
8) 355 + 355, remainder=290<br />
<br />
== Costing ==<br />
<br />
Note the cost analysis below is old. Check the [[Mendel assembly data sheet]] for cheaper costing data.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Cost type<br />
! UK estimate<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Bar||£11.19||RS<br />
|-<br />
| Bearings||£31.20||RS<br />
|-<br />
| Belt||£23.33||RS<br />
|-<br />
| Extruder parts||£15.00||Estimate<br />
|-<br />
| Fasteners||£22.09||Orbital Fasteners<br />
|-<br />
| Motors||£51.66||Assumes 4x NEMA 17s (www.motioncontrolproducts.co.uk) +delivery<br />
|-<br />
| PCB/Electronics||£110.00||Zach\'s Gen3 electronics<br />
|-<br />
| Thin sheet||£0.00||Beer can<br />
|-<br />
| RP||£20.00||Assumes no commission<br />
|-<br />
| Thick sheet||£20.00||Estimate<br />
|-<br />
| Studding||£4.86||Orbital Fasteners<br />
|- style="font-weight:bold; background-color:#f0c000"<br />
| Total||£309.33 + Motor delivery||<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Image:cost-breakdown.PNG|500px]]<br />
<br />
'''This needs updating!/|\'''<br />
|<br />
<br />
== Revised Costing ==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|- style="background-color:#f0f0f0;"<br />
! Cost type<br />
! UK estimate<br />
! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Bar||£11.19||RS<br />
|-<br />
| Bearings||£17.95||[[Mendel Bearing Kits]]<br />
|-<br />
| Belt||£14.79||Camiel [http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/belts.html Mendel-Parts.com]<br />
|-<br />
| Extruder parts||£30.00||Estimate<br />
|-<br />
| Fasteners||£18.63 + £7.95||Orbital Fasteners + Shipping<br />
|-<br />
| Motors||£40.89||Assumes 4x NEMA 17s <br />
SY42STH47-1684B Camiel [http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/motors.html Motor kit]<br />
|-<br />
| PCB/Electronics||£113 + £10||Camiel's [http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/electronics-1/sets.html Gen6 electronics] + Shipping<br />
|-<br />
| RP||£95.00|| RepRap Ltd.<br />
|-<br />
| Thick & Thin sheet||£51.34||Camiel [http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/catalog/thick-thin-sheet.html Sheet kit]<br />
|-<br />
| Studding||£6.66||Orbital Fasteners<br />
|- style="font-weight:bold; background-color:#f0c000"<br />
| Total||£396.45||<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
Back to [[Mendel mechanical construction]] root.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Mendel]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Mendel_Overview&diff=182645Mendel Overview2018-06-07T17:14:20Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Mendel Overview}}<br />
<br />
{{Template:Mendel Documentation Header|Mechanical Construction}}<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
The video below is an immediate introduction to the Mendel design:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">6865848|640|480</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
The picture below identifies Mendel's axes:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Mendel GA axes designation.JPEG|640px|General assembly of Mendel]]<br />
<br />
== Essential understanding ==<br />
<br />
Before assembly it's important to understand the key mechanical concepts behind Mendel's axes.<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">6982104|640|480</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Mendel's design improvements ==<br />
<br />
This is not critical to watch before assembly, but if you've previously owned a Darwin machine (the first RepRap printer) you might like to know sbout some of the improvements the Mendel design has in store for you:<br />
<br />
{| width="90%" align="center"<br />
| align="center" | <videoflash type="vimeo">6983001|640|480</videoflash><br />
|}<br />
<br />
----<br />
Back to [[Mendel mechanical construction]] root.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Mendel]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Calibration/he&diff=182644Calibration/he2018-06-07T17:12:26Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Calibration}}<br />
{{merge|RepRapSoftwareTweakingManual}}<br />
<br />
<br />
<div dir="rtl"><br />
תהליך ה'''כיול''' הוא אוסף של פעולות כוונון מכניות שדרושות על מנת לקבל תוצאות הדפסה מדויקות ואיכותיות. הדפסות של מדפסת לא מכוילת יכולות לצאת מעוותות, בגודל לא נכון, ובעלות עוד בעיות לא רצויות. מדפסת יכולה להיות מכוילת למקסימום שהמכניקה שלה מאפשרת לה.<br />
<br />
<br />
לאחר שסיימת לבנות את המבנה הפיזי של הריפרפ שלך, כיול הוא המכשול הבא. ניסיון הדפסה ללא כיול כנראה ייגמר בגוש פלסטיק מרוח על משטח ההדפסה, ויכול אפילו לגרום לשריפת מנוע!<br />
<br />
החלק הבא לקוח מ-Coasterman שפירסם אותו ב-Thingiverse.com. הם הועברו לריפרפ-ויקי ותורגמו לעברית על מנת להקל על עריכתם על ידי הקהילה הרחבה.<br />
<br />
שים לב כי כיול הוא תהליך מתמשך שצריך להיעשות לכל אורך חיי המדפסת. כמעט תמיד יש שיפורים שיכולים להיעשות על מנת לשפר את איכות ההדפסה.<br />
<br />
<br />
= שים לב! =<br />
חלק מהצעדים הבאים צריכים להיעשות בסדר מסויים. <br />
זה '''חשוב במיוחד''' שכיול המנועים יעשה ראשון כיוון שמנועים לא מכויילים יכול להרוס את הפולולו ואת המנועים!<br />
=דרישות מקדימות=<br />
<br />
לפני שמתחילים בכיול, ישנם כמה דברים הכרחיים לפני שאפשר להתחיל:<br />
*מדפסת בנויה עד הסוף. המדפסת צריכה להיות בנויה לחלוטין, עם כל החלקים במקומם.<br />
*המדפסת צריכה להימצא על משטח ישר, יציב ומאוזן.<br />
*קליבר, סרגל, מברג, וכל כלי אחר שידרש על מנת לשנות את הגדרות המדפסת.<br />
<br />
=תהליך הכיול=<br />
<br />
== כיול מנועים ==<br />
<br />
מטרה: לקבוע את הזרם למנועי הצעד לכמות הנכונה.<br />
<br />
המנועים צריכים להיות שקטים תוך כדי פעולה ולפעמים יכולים לנגן, במיוחד תוך כדי ייצור מעגלים. אם המנועים עושים יותר מדי רעש, יש לך בעיה.<br />
<br />
ציוד נדרש: אין<br />
<br />
לתשומת ליבך: כמות זרם לא נכונה יכולה להרוס את הפולולו או את המנוע.<br />
=== סימפטומים ===<br />
<br />
'''המנועים עושים יותר מדי רעש'''<br />
<br />
סיבה: יותר מדי זרם.<br />
<br />
'''המנועים מזמזמים בלי לזוז'''<br />
<br />
ככל הנראה המנועים לא מקבלים מספיק זרם. יכולה להיות גם בעיה שחלק כלשהו חוסם את תנועת המנוע, או שכמות הצעדים/מילימטרים בקושחה גבוהה מדי.<br />
<br />
'''המנוע זז, עוצר וממשיך לנוע'''<br />
<br />
ככל הנראה יותר מדי זרם גורם לפולולו להתחמם ולכבות את עצמו. נסה תחילה להוריד את הזרם. הבעיה יכולה להיגרם גם אם בורג המנוע לא מהודק מספיק.<br />
<br />
===הוראות===<br />
בכל פולולו יש נגד משתנה. כל נגד משתנה כזה שולט בכמות הזרם שמגיעה למנוע. סיבוב כנגד כיוון השעון מוריד את כמות הזרם, וסיבוב בכיוון השעון מעלה את כמות הזרם.<br />
<br />
השתמש במברג (מומלץ מחומר לא מוליך) וסובב את הנגד המשתנה נגד כיוון השעון עד שהמנוע מזמזם בלי לזוז. עכשיו סובב את הנגד השמיניות סיבובים עד שהמנוע מתחיל לזוז. הוסף עוד שמינית סיבוב אחת וזה אמור להספיק.<br />
<br />
== איזון המשטח ==<br />
מטרה: לאזן את משטח ההדפסה כך שההדפסות ידבקו למשטח. התוצאה של שלב זה אמורה לגרום לאקסטרודר להיות בגובה שווה מעל כל נקודה על המשטח.<br />
<br />
סימנים של משטח לא מאוזן: פלסטיק נדבק לחלק אחד של המשטח ולאחר לא, האקסטרודר חופר בהדפסה.<br />
<br />
חשיבות: השכבה הראשונה היא הבסיס של כל השכבות הבאות. שכבה ראשונה גרועה יכולה לגרום להרבה בעיות בהמשך ההדפסה.<br />
<br />
מודל הדפסה: [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 bedleveling.stl]<br />
<br />
===הוראות===<br />
''שלב ראשון - צור גובה פינה''<br />
*הזז את האקסטרודר לפינה ההתחלתית<br />
*קרב את הדיזה למשטח<br />
*השתמש בנייר עבה ודחף אותו בין הדיזה למשטח. צריך להרגיש התנגדות קלה. יש להזיז את האקסטרודר למעלה ולמטה עד שמגיעים לתוצאה הרצויה.<br />
<br />
''שלב שני - פינה שנייה''<br />
*זוז על ציר ה-Y (המשטח עצמו ברוב המדפסות) לפינה הבאה<br />
*השתמש באותה חתיכת נייר בשביל להשוות את הגובה<br />
*העלה או הורד את המשטח עד לתוצאה רצויה<br />
*חזור לפינה הראשונה ובצע את הבדיקה. אם הגובה שוב לא שווה חזור על שני השלבים הראשונים.<br />
<br />
''שלב שלישי - הפינה השלישית והרביעית''<br />
*יש שתי דרכים לעשות את זה - לשנות את גובה המשטח, או לשנות את הזווית של ציר ה-X.<br />
**זווית ציר ה-X (במדפסות בהן ציר ה-X נע בין שני מוטות מתברגים אנכיים)<br />
***הזז את האקסטרודר לפינה השלישית ובדוק את הגובה. אם יש צורך בשינוי, כבה את המדפסת וסובב את המוט הקרוב לפינה ידנית עד שהאקסטרודר מגיע לגובה המתאים.<br />
***במקרה והשתמשת בשיטה זו חובה לחזור לפינה הקודמת ולוודא שהגובה עדיין שווה<br />
**גובה המשטח<br />
***הבא את האקסטרודר לפינה השלישית ובדוק את הגובה. שנה את גובה המשטח עד לקבלת התוצאה הרצויה<br />
<br />
כשהמשטח מאוזן הדפס את מודל ההדפסה שבתחילת הפרק ובדוק שכל ריבוע מאוזן.<br />
<br />
== הכנת משטח ההדפסה ==<br />
מטרה: הכנה נכונה של המשטח כך שהפלסטיק יידבק.<br />
<br />
===הוראות===<br />
משטח הדפסה לא מוכן יכול להוביל לאחיזה חלשה של ההדפסה במשטח.<br />
<br />
אופן ההכנה תלוי החומר שממנו עשוי המשטח, בחומר שבו מכסים את המשטח, ובחומר שאיתו מדפיסים.<br />
<br />
==== זכוכית ====<br />
נקה את הזכוכית בעזרת נוזל לניקוי חלונות או אצטון עם מטלית נקייה. השקע זמן עד שהמשטח יהיה נקי לחלוטין.<br />
עם משטח מתחמם ו-ABS כנראה תרצה לכסות את הזכוכית באחת מהאפשרויות הבאות:<br />
1. מי סוכר - המס סוכר במים ביחס של 1:10 ומרח על המשטח. משטח בחום 95 מעלות צלזיוס.<br />
2. מיץ ABS - ABS מומס באצטון. 10 מילימטר חומר בקוטר 3 מילימטר על 10 מיליליטר אצטון. משטח בחום 90 מעלות צלזיוס.<br />
3.קפטון (ראה למטה)<br />
<br />
==== סרטי הדבקה ====<br />
כשמדביקים סרט הדבקה למשטח חשוב לוודא שהמשטח נשאר ישר וחלק. הדבק את הסרטים צמודים אחד לשני בלי שיהיו ביניהם רווחים ובלי שיעלו אחד על השני. מומלץ להדביק כמה שכבות אחת על השנייה, ולשנות את הכיוון בכל שכבה כדי שטעויות לא יחזרו על עצמן בשכבות העליונות.<br />
<br />
===== סרט הדבקה כחול =====<br />
סרט הדבקה כחול עובד טוב למדפיסים ב-PLA.<br />
"3M's 'Scotch-Blue Painters Tape for Multi-Surfaces #2090'" חפש <br />
או<br />
Eurocel Blue Masking tape Israel<br />
<br />
<br />
לקונים בארץ: חפשו בחנויות יצירה וצביעה "טייפ צבעים כחול #2090".<br />
כיוון שזהו מוצר לא מוכר יחסית שלא קיים בכל חנות, מומלץ להזמין מהאינטרנט (ולאלה שאין להם בעיה לחכות מומלץ מאיביי).<br />
<br />
ניתן להשיג טייפ (סרט הדבקה) כחול תוצרת יורוסיל http://www.3dPrintingCenter.co.il ב<br />
<br />
===== קפטון =====<br />
קפטון הוא טייפ עמיד בחום שנמצא בשימוש רחב במדפסות תלת-מימדיות.<br />
קפטון נדבק טוב למגוון של חומרים. <br />
כמשתמשים בקפטון חשוב לוודא שלא נשארות בועות. <br />
קיימת גם "השיטה הרטובה" שמוסברת בסרטון http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVTWXGqNB2I הזה.<br />
http://www.3dPrintingCenter.co.il גם קפטון ניתן להשיג בארץ ב<br />
<br />
== אקסטרוציה==<br />
מטרה: לדאוג שטמפרטורת הקצה החם נכונה, כך שהחומר יוצא בצורה נקייה.<br />
כלים דרושים: סרגל/קליבר<br />
מחשב עם prontrface<br />
=== צעדי אקסטרודר===<br />
<br />
מטרה: לקבוע את ערך צעדי המנוע/מילימטר חומר<br />
<br />
כדי למצוא את הערך הנכון, השתמשו בסרגל כדי למדוד מאה מילימטר על קש שתייה. סמנו עם טוש את המקום וגזרו שם את הקש.<br />
אחר כך גזרו את הקש לאורכו. הלבישו את הקש על הפילמנט והדביקו מדבקה במקום שאליו הקש מגיע. עכשיו צריך להיכנס לפרונטרפייס ולחמם את הקצה החם. אחר כך לכתוב בתיבת הטקסט 100 וללחוץ<br />
extrude.<br />
אם המדבקה נתקעה באקסטרודר, ערך הצעד/מילימטר גדול מדי וצריך להקטין אותו.<br />
אם המדבקה לא נוגעת באקסטרודר, הערך קטן מדי.<br />
חיזרו על זה עד שהמדבקה נוגעת בדיוק באקסטרודר.<br />
<br />
To set the extruder steps per distance of filament, (the 3mm or 1.75mm filament, NOT the material that comes out of the hot end) send M92 E<new value>. You can check the current value by sending "M503". Your host software is part of the [[CAM Toolchains|CAM toolchain]] that you use to send G-Code to control the printer.<br />
<br />
If you got the filament driver as a whole the first estimate is calculated, however the error margin is too great to leave it at that. Importantly, write initial the value for M92 down, then raise the hot end and extrude, then measure the length extruded.<br />
<br />
Then the value '''(wanted_length/measured_length)*old_M92''' is a better value. You might want to do it some more times until it doesn't change much.<br />
<br />
==== Calibration for printing ====<br />
<br />
We also want to calibrate based on how it actually prints, basically for this some [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119306 calibration Object] is used and the value is increased/decreased, this can be done both by using M92 E again, or setting extrusion multipliers in slicer software.<br />
<br />
Basically you do this until it looks good, increasing if it looks like too little, decreasing if too much. Pictures are in the [[Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide#Material_Feed|Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide]].<br />
<br />
Note that this calibration is affected by the xyz calibration, if the part is made larger than intended, it takes more filament to make it, so that calibration should be correct. ''However'' calculations from gear ratios should already give values very close to the correct ones.<br />
<br />
=== PLA ===<br />
PLA הוא חומר פלסטי המיוצר מעמילנים אשר בתירס<br />
לכן חומר זה הוא ידידותי לאדם ולסביבה זאת בהשוואה ל ABS שהוא חומר המבוסס על תזקיקי נפט<br />
<br />
== Layer height ==<br />
Objective: to correct the layer height settings to reflect your printer's actual layer height.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17273 0.5mm-thin-wall.stl]<br />
<br />
When your extruder draws a line of plastic, that line has a height and width. You get to choose these values.<br />
<br />
Best results are obtained when layer height < 80% of nozzle diameter, and extrusion width >= nozzle diameter.<br />
<br />
Eg; with an 0.35 nozzle, your '''maximum''' layer height is 0.35*0.8= '''0.28mm''' and your extrusion width should be 0.4mm or greater.<br />
with an 0.5mm nozzle, your layer height can be up to 0.4mm, and an 0.25mm nozzle will give you 0.2mm max layer height.<br />
<br />
'''You can use a lower layer height or larger extrusion width if you wish, it will work fine'''. The slicing software automatically calculates the appropriate volume to extrude based on the settings you choose. '''There is no hard lower limit on layer height''' - it is limited by your ability to keep flow consistent at very low flowrates. Some reprappers have printed layers as small as 5 micron - 0.005mm!<br />
<br />
[[User:Triffid hunter|Triffid Hunter]] (who's [[Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide|guide]] this text was stolen from :D ) recommends layer height of 0.2mm, and extrusion width of 0.5mm regardless of which nozzle he's using.<br />
<br />
Slic3r automatically chooses an extrusion width for you based on your nozzle diameter. If you're determined to choose, you can use the ''extrusion width'' advanced setting. It is frequently advantageous to choose as models may have walls of a particular width, and by choosing you can ensure they are entirely filled with perimeter with no gap in the middle and no infill.<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Print the 0.5mm thin wall cube and make sure that the layers adhere well but the nozzle does NOT drag through while printing. <br />
<br />
Adjust softwares layer height in .01 increments until you get a nice print. In Pronterface/Skeinforge settings, this can be found under Craft > Carve.<br />
<br />
Depending on other factors you may find it hard to get all four walls to print nicely. For the first pass if you can get just one wall looking good then move on to the next test.<br />
<br />
== Infill ==<br />
Objective: to correct the infill setting.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17274 20mm-box.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Set infill solidity to 1.0 for this. In Pronterface/Skeinforge settings, this can be found under Craft > Fill.<br />
<br />
QUESTION: Now that Slic3r is recommended/integrated,<br />
<br />
Which is the correct infill option between: <br />
<br />
Rectilinear, Line, HoneyComb, Hibertcurves(slow), Archimedeanchords (slow), Octagramspiral (slow)<br />
<br />
<br />
Print the cube and analyze the top. If there is NOT ENOUGH plastic (a concave top), reduce the Infill Width over Thickness by .05 increments. If there is TOO MUCH plastic (convex top), turn that parameter up by .05 increments. In Pronterface/Skeinforge settings, this can be found either in Craft > Inset in some versions, or Craft > Fill in other versions.<br />
<br />
Once you're feeling close, start bumping it around in smaller increments. <br />
<br />
You may also need to adjust your feed rate.<br />
<br />
Adjust the feed rate by increments of 2 or so until you feel close. If it looks really disgusting and blobby, go by increments of 0.5mm. Then go by smaller and smaller increments until you've nailed it. Although you probably just want to decrease Infill Width over Thickness instead of decreasing Feedrate because lowering feedrate will degrade the resolution.<br />
<br />
== Temperature control ==<br />
Objective: to set the hot end temperature correct for your preferred plastic.<br />
<br />
Note: you will find that different types of plastic have vastly different temperatures for both your hotend and your bed. What you might not expect is that different colours for the same material can also required different printing temperatures.<br />
<br />
As the tower has quite a small 'top' surface area you may need to cool this object as you print. If your printer doesn't have a built in fan you can use any room fan as a substitute.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17276 50mm-tower.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Set the 'Infill solidity' to 1.0. In Pronterface/Skeinforge settings, this can be found under Craft > Fill.<br />
<br />
If the plastic comes out as a drip instead of a cylindrical filament, the temperature is too high. -- http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Troubleshooting#Plastic_comes_out_of_extruder_head_in_a_flowing_state<br />
<br />
Start by doing a simple extruder test to determine what the range of temperatures are that you can extrude at.<br />
Reduce the temperature in 5 degree increments until the extruder starts skipping when you do a manual extrude. Turn the extruder up 5 degrees and note this as your minimum extruder temperature.<br />
<br />
Print this block. <br />
<br />
If it looks like a blob, turn down all the temps by 5 degrees until you get something good. Chances are you won't need to do this more than 5 degrees. <br />
<br />
Note: Be careful as going too low can result in the plastic setting making it hard for the motors to drive the plastic, possibly causing wear or damage.<br />
<br />
TODO: list temperature ranges for common plastics.<br />
<br />
==== Recommendations ====<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
<br />
Hotend: 185&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
Bed: 60&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
<br />
Hotend: 230&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
Bed: 110&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
== Perimeter Width ==<br />
Objective: correct the perimeter width over thickness. In newer versions Edge Width over Height.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:87071 perimeter-wt_Slic3r-friendly.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
This test prints two objects which are designed to fit together.<br />
<br />
Try to insert the smaller block into the larger block. Try inserting it differently a few times, and check your belt tensions. <br />
<br />
TODO: Need notes on calibration of belt tensions<br />
<br />
<br />
If you can get it in a few mm, good. If you can get it in all the way, awesome. The fit should be snug. If it is loose and can jitter around inside, decrease the perimeter width over thickness, also called Edge Width over Height. In Pronterface/Skeinforge, "Edge Width over Height" can be found in Craft > Carve in the Slicing Settings. If you CANNOT get it in AT ALL, and you are sure there are no whiskers blocking it, INCREASE perimeter width over thickness or Edge Width over Height. The latter is more likely.<br />
<br />
== Bridging ==<br />
Objective: to maximize your printers ability to bridge gaps (i.e. print in thin air).<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17279 20mm-hollow-box.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Print the calibration object and if the top droops in, increase the BRIDGE FEEDRATE MULTIPLIER in Speed by increments of .1 until the top stops drooping.<br />
<br />
== Print Precision ==<br />
Objective: improve print precision<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17278 precision-block.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
<br />
Then there is the precision block. No real huge calibration parameter here. Just play with this and see how well it does on the overhangs and shapes.<br />
<br />
TODO: We need to add some recommendations on how to improve this or find more direct methods of calibrating specific aspects of the print. <br />
<br />
== Overhang ==<br />
Objective: fix overhang problems<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17348 overhang-test.stl]<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Then there is a simple overhang test. Print and observe the overhangs. This is up to you to figure how to improve the overhangs.<br />
<br />
TODO: We need to add some recommendations on how to improve this or find more direct methods of calibrating specific aspects of the print.<br />
<br />
gregor: i get better results when i add a fan to cool the overhang down<br />
<br />
this was my test object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:58218]<br />
<br />
== Oozebane ==<br />
Objective: stop material oozing out of the noozle during 'non-printing' moves.<br />
<br />
Many extruders will emit (ooze) plastic even when the extruder motor is not turning. To overcome this your slicing software needs to 'retract' the print medium during head movement when not printing. The retraction creates negative pressure within the hot end heating chamber which effectively sucks the print medium back up through the nozzle, stopping it from oozing.<br />
<br />
==== Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17661 oozebane-test.stl] ====<br />
<br />
The calibration object prints two towers about 30 mm apart. The head must move between each of the towers at each layer. If your printer is not set correctly then you will see many fine filaments (or strings) between the two towers. You can eliminate these filaments by eliminating ooze.<br />
<br />
==== Calibration Object 2 (Variable sized towers for testing ooze): [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:20868 variable_size_ooze_test_nobase.stl] ====<br />
<br />
This is a simple model to help tune reversal parameters for a stepper extruder (using much less filament before actually testing the ooziness). <br />
It consists of a number of towers with different thicknesses, with different spacing between each tower. <br />
A well-tuned bot should be able to produce even the smallest towers.<br />
<br />
<br />
Symptoms<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
<br />
This is to try to control ooze and calibrate it to be useful. <br />
<br />
Start by setting the Early Shutdown distance to 0 and Slowdown Startup Steps to 1. <br />
<br />
Print the piece and measure the length of stringers where the extruder shut off and the line is thick before becoming a thin whisker. Take that length and put it into early shutdown distance. <br />
<br />
Play with Early Startup Distance Constant until the place where the extruder arrives at the other tower is nice and smooth, so that there isn't any empty space where plastic should be, but there isn't excess plastic extruded.<br />
<br />
References:<br />
http://reprap.org/wiki/Sfact#Q:____What_happened_to_the_old_retraction_settings.3F__What_the_hell_is_oozerate.3F<br />
<br />
<br />
Since [http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2841/slic3r-0910b-out-features-wipe-and-vase-options/ Slic3r 0.9.10b] there is a [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/186 wipe before retract] option (under Printer Settings => Extruder)<br />
which seems to make the most difference. Other options to consider: reduce temperature, increase travel speed, retracting more, retract slower, z-lift before travel or lowering extrusion ratios.<br />
<br />
== Overhangs ==<br />
Objective: eliminate droop from overhangs.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:19658 BridgeTestPart.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
If the calibration object droops, you likely need to decrease "Bridge Flowrate over Operating Flowrate." Or increase "Bridge Feedrate over Operating Feedrate."<br />
<br />
== X & Y scaling and steps/mm calculations==<br />
<br />
''The following information concerning steps/mm adjustments is outdated. It has since been agreed that steps/mm should be set to the exact calculated values since printing with non-ideal steps/mm results in an accurate test piece, but makes the dimensions on every other part even more inaccurate.''<br />
<br />
Scaling goes into the STEPS_PER_MM of the firmware, track offset goes into the G-code compiler (Skeinforge etc.).<br />
<br />
==='''tl;dr'''===<br />
<br />
The most simple way to get reasonably accurate parts is to simply ignore the track offset or to set it to some guessed value, then adjust scaling of the axes, only:<br />
<br />
: <math>\frac {\mbox {current steps per mm} \cdot \mbox {expected distance movement}} \mbox{actual measured distance}</math><br />
<br />
E. g:<br />
(41.8*100)/94.94=~44.02780703602275121129 <br />
Then repeat: <br />
(44.0278*100)/99.95=~44.04982491245622811406 <br />
Until you get your desired steps per mm.<br />
<br />
* Useful G-code-commands to use with [[Printrun|Pronterface]]/[[Repetier-Host]] or whatever eases your RepRap replication.<br />
(''Do note that there is a setting in configuration.h that enable these EEPROM functions.'')<br />
<br />
M501 (show current settings (steps per mm etc)<br />
M92 X44.04982491245622811406 (change steps per mm to your calculated value, useful for any axis; X,Y,Z and E for Extruder)<br />
M500 (save your new settings)<br />
<br />
* In Teacup firmware you multiply these values by 1000, to get steps per meter, and put the value left of the decimal into config.h's STEPS_PER_M_X, STEPS_PER_M_Y, ... . Then, re-upload the firmware.<br />
<br />
===Track Offset===<br />
<br />
OK, here we get a bit stuck. While the theory section below nicely shows how to calculate the optimum track offset, Skeinforge has no configuration option to adjust this value.<br />
<br />
: An excerpt from a chat between Greg Frost and Traumflug, on 2011/22/06:<br />
<br />
: [14:30] <GregFrost_> I calibrated the extruded length and then set feed=flow and pw/t and iw/t to 1.5 and immediately got nice looking prints. However, and here is the kicker, the objects are all slightly too big because my single wall box has an actual w/t of 2.1<br />
: [14:31] <GregFrost_> I can fix this with p flow but then i get thin preimeters and they dont alway bond well to each other (but objects are the right size).<br />
: [14:31] <GregFrost_> I would like normal flow on the perim but a wider w/t but if i do that it adjusts all of the flows up and I get far too much plastic.<br />
: [14:32] <GregFrost_> what I really need is a way to change the distance inside the objest that the perimeter is traced without changing the flow rates.<br />
: [14:37] <Traumflug> To be honest, I never used Skeinforge, this adjustable track offset is an assumption.<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: it would be a good setting, i agree.<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: I think the only way to achieve a track offset is to adjust the perimiter w/t ratio.<br />
: [14:38] <Traumflug> So, Skeinforge doesn't compensate for track width?<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: it does. but it uses the perimiter witdth/t and infill w.t settings<br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: then it uses the layer height<br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: and useing those it works out the track offset.<br />
: [14:39] <Traumflug> ok, good to know. <br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: but the kicker is, changing perimeter w/t also adjusts the flow rate<br />
: [14:40] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: so theoretically when you choose a new w/t, it puts out enuf plastic to fill the width.<br />
: [14:40] <Traumflug> Yes, theoretically<br />
: [14:41] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: but on the perimiter if you use the same volumetric flow as the infill, it bulges past the desired width because there is no containing line.<br />
: [14:42] <GregFrost_> but the one setting that allows you to compensate for that adjusts the flow on all other lines (both infill and permiiters)<br />
: [14:42] <Traumflug> IMHO, changing the plastic flow to compensate for size errors isn't a good way.<br />
: [14:43] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: I agree completely.<br />
: [14:43] <Traumflug> Each time you change the flow, a lot of minor parameters change as well, so a prediction is very difficult.<br />
: [14:43] <GregFrost_> I want to change the track offset.<br />
<br />
=Theory and Maths=<br />
<br />
By [[User:Traumflug | Markus "Traumflug" Hitter]].<br />
<br />
==X and Y Axis==<br />
<br />
Both horizontal axes can be calibrated with two values: track offset and overall scaling. To find out how this is done, let's have a look at a part specially designed to find out those values:<br />
<br />
[[File:RepRap Calibration Frame Drawing.png | center | 600px]]<br />
<br />
It's a frame, similar to the one you use to put pictures up onto the wall. The essential part here is, it has long and short distances to measure on the same part. We need to measure both, to distinguish between track offset and scaling.<br />
<br />
To the right of the drawing, a few tracks laid down by the extruder are sketched in. It shows how the track offset lets the extruder move closer to the inside of the part, so the outer side of the track just ends where the part should end as well.<br />
<br />
All the sizes are overlaid by scaling, which is sort of a "gear ratio" between measurement units and stepper motor steps.<br />
<br />
===Calibration Object===<br />
<br />
====OpenSCAD====<br />
<nowiki>// X-Y Calibration object<br />
// See http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Theory_and_Maths<br />
<br />
difference() {<br />
cube([100,100,3], true);<br />
cube([80,80,3.1], true);<br />
}</nowiki><br />
<br />
====STL file====<br />
<br />
[[File:XYCalibration.stl]]<br />
<br />
===Basic Equation===<br />
<br />
With that knowledge, we can sum up what the extruder moves to get the size T = 10&nbsp;mm exactly 10&nbsp;mm wide:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
\mbox{movement} = ( \mbox{intended size} - 2 * \mbox{track offset} ) * \mbox{scaling} \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
This holds true for measurements of any size, i.e. also for the 100&nbsp;mm size of our calibration frame:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
M_{10} & = ( 10\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF ) * S \\<br />
M_{100} & = ( 100\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF ) * S \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
You see? Two unknowns and two equations, so the set is solvable.<br />
<br />
===Extending to Erroneous Movements===<br />
<br />
Now, the whole point of this writing is, the extruder movement doesn't match what we need to get accurately sized parts. So we have not only a movement, but also a movement error.<br />
<br />
The reason for the movement error is, according to the basic equation, erroneous track offset and/or erroneous scaling.<br />
<br />
Get these two into the basic equation, result to the left, reason to the right:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
& \mbox{movement} * \mbox{movement error} = \\<br />
& ( \mbox{intended size} - 2 * \mbox{track offset} * \mbox{track offset error} * \mbox{scaling} * \mbox{scaling error} \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
Again, this holds true for both our measurements:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
M_{10} * E_{M10} & = ( 10\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF * E_{TF} ) * S * E_S \\<br />
M_{100} * E_{M100} & = ( 100\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF * E_{TF} ) * S * E_S \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
<br />
''... to be continued ... about a formula to get scaling and track offset from measuring these 10 mm and 100 mm ...''<br />
<br />
==Z Axis==<br />
<br />
On the Z axis, there is no track offset compensation, so calibration is reduced to scaling of part height. Build any part of 50&nbsp;mm height, let it cool down, measure it. Then adjust your STEPS_PER_MM in your firmware's config.h to reduce the difference between intended and received part.<br />
<br />
As most RepRaps use a threaded rod on the Z axis, the theoretical value, which can be generated from [http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/ the online calculator], should match reality pretty close. However, there's also material shrink as the plastics is printed at a higher temperature than room temperature.<br />
<br />
=Further reading=<br />
* [[Printing quality]].<br />
<br />
=References=<br />
<br />
* [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2011/02/polyholes.html nopheads blog on undersized holes] and how to make then accurate.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Old Version of this Page=<br />
<br />
''put here as the new part is still incomplete'' --[[User:Traumflug|Traumflug]] 22:55, 21 June 2011 (UTC)<br />
<br />
''Is this part of [[commissioning]]?''<br />
''Is this part of [[Builders/Config/Config Axes]]?''<br />
<br />
To calibrate, you will need the following: a [http://www.reprap.org/bin/view/Main/MakeYourOwnRepRap Rep(st)rap], a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliper#Digital_caliper slide caliper], and printing material (ABS, PLA, HDPE, etc).<br />
<br />
You will also need [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:477 this] object file to print out.<br />
<br />
#Setup and load your printing material.<br />
#Print the calibration object.<br />
#Allow the object to cool.<br />
#Use the slide caliper to measure each edge and the diagonals.<br />
#Make a note of each measurement and this will allow you to determine where a problem is IF there is a problem.<br />
<br />
With the above measurements, you should be able to determine any alignment issues. The sides should measure withing .5mm of 40mm.<br />
<br />
if it is off consistently, then it is probably a firmware issue. <br />
<br />
Most inconsistent discrepancies are a sign of backlash (i.e. slop or play in your mechanical system). Make sure the grub screws on the pulleys are tight; make sure the belts are tensioned so that when you turn the stepper by hand, it immediately produces a movement in the axis; make sure all the bearings turn smoothly, and that the carriages only move along their intended axis. with all of that double checked, try printing your test piece again, and pay very close attention while it is printing. If your stepper motors make strange noises occasionally, it might be that they are skipping steps because they don't have enough torque. Try turning up the trim pot for that axis.<br />
<br />
If all this fails, the best place to go to figure out how to fix your issue, once you've identified it, is either to ask someone in the [http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?4 forums], or on [irc://chat.freenode.net/#reprap IRC], if you prefer. Then come back here and make this page better, or complain to the forum users.<br />
<br />
Once you get a simple cube printed adequately,<br />
you might consider trying a more difficult object such as the [[bearing clip 01]] for more fine-tuning.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Calibration/he| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Calibration/it&diff=182643Calibration/it2018-06-07T17:12:15Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Calibration}}<br />
{{merge|RepRapSoftwareTweakingManual}}<br />
La calibratura è l'insieme delle "regolazioni" meccaniche necessarie per ottenere una stampa esatta e di qualità. Anche se la tua stampante RepRap funziona correttamente per quanto riguarda l'elettronica, una fase di calibratura della stessa è necessaria per ottenere parti stampate correttamente.<br />
<br />
La precisione che una RepRap può raggiungere con una buona calibratura è limitata solo dalla sua stessa meccanica. Senza un'adeguata calibratura le stampe potrebbero non avere una dimensione corretta, potrebbero non aderire correttamente al piano di stampa o potrebbero verificarsi altri effetti indesiderati.<br />
<br />
L'insieme di note ed oggetti riportati di seguito sono stati preparati da Coasterman che le ha pubblicate originariamente su Thingiverse. Successivamente sono state riportate e riorganizzate sulla wiki di RepRap per favorirne la fruizione da parte di una comunità più ampia.<br />
<br />
Le specifiche indicazioni raccolte in questo articolo sono basate su Skeinforge (o sfact). Ciò nonostante le informazioni fornite dovrebbero essere applicabili ad ogni altro software di stampa. L'insieme degli oggetti di calibratura resta comunque valido, indipendentemente dai softwares utilizzati.<br />
<br />
Si noti che la calibratura è un processo continuo che deve essere ripetuto periodicamente durante tutta la vita della stampante. Ci sono quasi sempre aggiustamenti e modifiche che si possono fare per migliorare la qualità di stampa.<br />
<br />
= ATTENZIONE =<br />
La calibratura è un processo iterativo. L'ordine delle fasi di taratura è molto importante ed andrebbe rispettata la sequenza di passi di seguito riportata.<br />
<br />
È '''PARTICOLARMENTE IMPORTANTE''' che la taratura dei motori sia eseguita come prima operazione. Motori mal calibrati possono distruggere i Pololus e loro stessi!<br />
<br />
= Prerequisiti =<br />
<br />
Per effettuare una buona calibratura è opportuno che:<br />
* La macchina sia stata completamente assemblata e tutte le sue parti (dadi, bulloni, struttura, ecc...) siano stabili e correttamente fissate.<br />
* La macchina poggi su una superficie piana e stabile (idealmente il piano di lavoro definitivo).<br />
* Siano disponibili a portata di mano calibro, livella, chiavi, cacciavite ed ogni altro utensile che possa tornare utile alla regolazione della macchina.<br />
<br />
= Processo di calibratura =<br />
<br />
== Calibratura dei motori ==<br />
<br />
Obiettivo: Impostare il giusto livello di corrente per i motori passo-passo.<br />
<br />
I motori dovrebbero essere silenziosi durante durante il normale funzionamento o emettere i suoni "armonici" (soprattutto quando vengono percorse trattorie curve.<br />
Se producono una discreta quantità di rumore, allora avete un problema.<br />
<br />
Oggetto di calibratura: nessuno<br />
<br />
NOTA: Livelli di corrente non appropriati possono danneggiare il pololus e/o i motori stessi.<br />
<br />
=== Sintomi di cattiva calibratura motore ===<br />
<br />
'''I motori emettono molto rumore.'''<br />
<br />
Generalmente dovuto ad una corrente di alimentazione dei motori troppo elevata.<br />
<br />
'''Il motore vibra senza girare.'''<br />
<br />
Le possibili cause possono essere:<br />
* Corrente di alimentazione motore insufficiente.<br />
* Una parte incollata o montata male genera attrito lungo l'asse che impedisce al motore di muoversi liberamente.<br />
* Valore di step/mm impostato errato. Ad esempio un valore di step/mm doppio rispetto a quello corretto può provocare vibrazioni del motore senza movimento.<br />
<br />
'''Movimento discontinuo degli assi (si ferma un attimo e poi riprende).'''<br />
<br />
Possibili cause possono essere:<br />
* Livello di corrente del motore eccessivo può provocare il surriscaldamento del Pololu. Questo fenomeno può essere anche provocato da parametri errati nel firmware. Controllare comunque prima i motori per evitare danni.<br />
* Slittamenti del giunto motore causati dalla vite di bloccaggio non serrata correttamente.<br />
<br />
=== Istruzioni di calibratura motore ===<br />
Ogni Pololu ha un trimmer situato vicino al dissipatore di calore. Il trimmer controlla la corrente che viene inviata al motore. Ruotando il trimmer in senso antiorario si riduce il livello di corrente, ruotando in senso orario lo si aumenta.<br />
<br />
Per cominciare abbassare il livello di corrente fino a quando il motore vibra sul posto. Ruotare il trimmer in senso orario con piccoli incrementi (1/8 di giro alla volta) finché il motore non comincia a girare liberamente. Dare un ulteriore incremento di 1/8 di giro. Questo dovrebbe essere il corretto livello di corrente. Tenere sotto controllo la temperatura dei Pololus.<br />
<br />
== Livellamento del piano di stampa ==<br />
<br />
Obiettivo: Livellare il piano di stampa in maniera che gli oggetti prodotti aderiscano correttamente alla superficie. Come risultato di questa fase avremo che l'ugello di stampa si troverà sempre alla stessa distanza dal piatto di stampa per tutta la superficie dello stesso.<br />
<br />
Sintomi di un piatto di stampa mal livellato:<br />
* La plastica aderisce solo in alcune zone dell'area di stampa e non in altre.<br />
* L'ugello dell'estrusore "preme" sulla superficie del piatto di stampa in alcuni punti, deformandone la superficie.<br />
<br />
Importante: Il primo strato di stampa è il fondamento di tutti gli strati successivi. Un cattivo strato di base potrebbe comportare la non perfetta aderenza al piatto della parte prodotta così come la formazione di "bolle" di materiale , che causeranno problemi agli strati successivi.<br />
<br />
Oggetto di calibratura: [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 bedleveling.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Istruzioni ===<br />
''Step 1 - Definire l'altezza corretta del primo angolo:''<br />
* Spostare l'ugello in un angolo del piatto di stampa a scelta.<br />
* Avvicinare l'ugello di stampa alla superficie del piatto.<br />
* Usate un pezzo di carta sottile come spessore, inserirlo tra l'ugello ed il piatto di stampa.<br />
* Se l'altezza dell'ugello è corretta, provando a tirare lo spessore, dovremmo avvertire una leggera resistenza che non ci impedisce però di muoverlo. In caso contrario spostare l'ugello più su o più giù fino a quando non sarà alla giusta distanza.<br />
<br />
''Step 2 - Verificare/correggere l'altezza del secondo angolo:''<br />
* Muovere l'asse Y (si muove solo il piatto di stampa) fino a quando l'ugello non raggiunge il secondo angolo.<br />
* Usando lo stesso spessore e lo stesso metodo dello step 1, determinare se il piatto di stampa è troppo vicino o troppo lontano dall'ugello.<br />
* Correggere l'altezza del piatto nell'angolo intervenendo sulla vite di fissaggio del piatto.<br />
* Ritornare al primo angolo e verificare nuovamente con lo spessore che l'altezza sia corretta. Se l'altezza risulta non corretta ripetere gli step 1 e 2.<br />
<br />
''Step 3 - Verifica/correzione dell'altezza del terzo e del quarto angolo:''<br />
<br />
Esistono due possibili modi per impostare la giusta altezza del terzo e quarto angolo del piano di stampa:<br />
: '''Intervenire sulle [http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jackscrew jeck screws] che sostengono e movimentano l'asse X'''<br />
:* Spostare l'ugello sul terzo angolo e verificare il gap rispetto al piatto con il solito spessore. Se il gap risulta non corretto (non si riesce a sfilare lo spessore o si riscontra troppa poca resistenza) spegnere i motori ed intervenire leggermente sulla "''vite di alzata''" corrispondente allo spigolo, sollevando od abbassando l'asse X fino a quando l'attrito sullo spessore non è appropriato.<br />
:* Ritornare sul secondo angolo e verificare nuovamente l'altezza con il solito spessore. Se non dovesse risultare corretta correggere intervenendo sulla vite di alzata. Ripetere la verifica sul terzo spigolo. Continuare a mettere a punto le altezze degli spigoli 2 e 3 fino a quando non si raggiunge la giusta configurazione.<br />
<br />
: '''Intervenire sulle viti di sostegno del piatto di stampa.'''<br />
<br />
== Preparazione superficie di stampa ==<br />
<br />
=== Istruzioni ===<br />
<br />
==== Vetro ====<br />
<br />
==== Nastri ====<br />
<br />
===== Nastro 3M Blue =====<br />
<br />
===== Nastro Kapton =====<br />
<br />
==== Altri materiali ====<br />
<br />
== Estrusione ==<br />
<br />
=== Steps estrusore ===<br />
<br />
==== Calibratura per la stampa ====<br />
<br />
=== PLA ===<br />
<br />
== Altezza del layer ==<br />
<br />
== Riempimento (Infill) ==<br />
<br />
== Controllo della temperatura ==<br />
<br />
==== Raccomandazioni ====<br />
<br />
== Larghezza del perimetro ==<br />
<br />
[[Category:Calibration/it| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Calibration/fr&diff=182642Calibration/fr2018-06-07T17:12:02Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Calibration}}<br />
Votre RepRap fonctionne bien ? Génial !<br />
<br />
Avez-vous déjà eu un pied à coulisse pour vérifier si ces 10&nbsp;mm dans le fichier STL correspondent à ceux de la pièce imprimée ? Si le trou de 8&nbsp;mm a vraiment 8,0&nbsp;mm de diamètre, ni 6,8, ni 8,3 ? Non ?<br />
<br />
Cette page a pour but de vous remonter le moral au cas où vous ou votre copain soyez déjà déçu. Une Reprap peut être calibrée aussi précisèment que sa mécanique le lui permet.<br />
<br />
<br />
='''Prérequis'''=<br />
<br />
Avant de commencer la calibration, il faut que la construction de votre machine soit déjà bien avancée de sorte qu'elle soit pas mal stable. <br />
<br />
Une fois que la construction physique de votre imprimante 3D est finie, il s'agit du nouveau gros morceau.<br />
<br />
Si vous essayez d'imprimer avant la calibration, vous obtiendrez vraisemblablement un enchevêtrement de plastoc qui barbouille le plateau de votre imprimante.<br />
<br />
En utilisant la procédure de calibration suivante, je suis passé d'un amas immonde à de belles pièces imprimées en une seule journée. On pourrait croire que c'est de la magie.<br />
<br />
Les objets et informations de cette page proviennent (et ont été publiées) de Coasterman qui les a postés sur Thingiverse.<br />
<br />
Je les ai déplacés sur le wiki de RepRap afin que la communauté puisse les éditer et les amender plus facilement. Aussi si vous avez une idée ou un objet qui puisse aider à faciliter cette calibration, n'hésitez pas à rajouter l'information ici.<br />
<br />
Les recommandations particulières de cet article sont basées sur Skeinforge (ou Sfact) cependant vous devriez trouver les paramètres équivalents dans votre programme préféré. En dehors du logiciel que vous employez, vous devriez trouver ce jeu d'instructions de calibration fort utile.<br />
<br />
D'une manière générale, vous devriez lancer ces tests de calibration pour ajuster votre imprimante au programme que vous utilisez. Une fois fait, je vous recommande de procéder à un second test, car le dernier peut affecter les précédents. <br />
<br />
=='''Mise à niveau du plateau'''==<br />
<br />
''Objectif :'' Ajuster la hauteur du plateau afin que vos objets adhèrent à la surface.<br />
<br />
''Pièce à imprimer pour tester la mise à niveau :'' [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053]<br />
<br />
Avant de faire quoi que ce soit, vous devez mettre à niveau votre plateau. Il ne sert absolument à rien d'imprimer tant que le plateau n'est pas parfaitement de niveau et à la bonne hauteur.<br />
Lors d'une impression, la première couche est la fondation de toutes les suivantes, si la première passe n'est pas nette et qu'elle n'adhère pas bien vous n'avez plus qu'à stopper l'impression et corriger ce problème.<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Lisez et complétez la page sur la [http://reprap.org/wiki/Leveling_the_Print_Bed/fr mise à niveau du plateau] avant de passer à l'étape suivante.<br />
<br />
Une fois le plateau de niveau, imprimez la pièce de test de niveau du plateau et assurez-vous que chaque coin est à angle droit, lisse et régulier. Il est possible que vous deviez télécharger le fichier scad original de cette pièce afin de la faire correspondre aux dimensions de votre plateau : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053<br />
<br />
== '''Préparation de la surface du plateau''' ==<br />
<br />
Objectif : préparation correcte du plateau pour être certain que les objets y adhèreront.<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Un plateau mal préparé peut être la cause d'une faible adhérence du plastique dessus, mais aussi d'un effet de 'bubbling'.<br />
Il suffit même parfois d'un peu de graisse laissée par les doigts pour ruiner une impression.<br />
<br />
La préparation du plateau dépendra du matériau dans lequel il est fabriqué :<br />
<br />
===='''Pour du verre'''====<br />
<br />
Nettoyer le verre avec un nettoyant classique pour les vitres de la maison et un chiffon qui ne peluche pas. Ne ménagez pas vos efforts pour rendre le verre impeccable.<br />
<br />
Si vous prévoyez d'imprimer en ABS, du jus d'ABS peut être appliqué sur la plaque de verre. La recette : 10cc d'acétone pour 1cc d'ABS.<br />
<br />
===='''Matériau différent du verre'''====<br />
<br />
L'utilisation d'un ruban adhésif de type "toutes peintures vitres-carrelages PVC" (ruban de couleur bleue) permet l'accrochage de la première couche. Il peut être utilisé sur un plateau aluminium.<br />
<br />
Le Kapton est un ruban adhésif résistant à la chaleur qui est couramment utilisé pour recouvrir les plateaux, quelle que soit sa matière. Le Kapton offre une bonne adhérence pour une grande variété de plastiques.<br />
<br />
=='''Calibration des moteurs'''==<br />
<br />
Objectif : ajuster le courant des moteurs pas à pas à un niveau correct.<br />
<br />
Les moteurs doivent être silencieux lorsqu'ils fonctionnent et peuvent occasionnellement produire des sons musicaux, particulièrement lors de mouvements circulaires. S’ils sont très bruyants, alors il y a un problème.<br />
NOTE: Un mauvais réglage de courant peut endommager les pololus et/ou les moteurs.<br />
<br />
==='''Symptômes'''===<br />
<br />
'''Moteurs très bruyants.'''<br />
<br />
Cela signifie généralement que le réglage de courant est très élevé.<br />
<br />
'''Moteur vibrant autour d'un point'''<br />
<br />
Cela signifie généralement que le courant est réglé trop bas pour vos moteurs. Un 'point dur' sur un axe peut être également la cause du problème.<br />
<br />
'''Mouvements avec pauses puis repris.'''<br />
<br />
Le courant peut être trop élevé ce qui produit une surchauffe du pololu et l'activation de la sécurité du pololu. Réduisez l'intensité du courant fourni. Cela peut aussi provenir du micrologiciel, mais vérifiez les moteurs d'abord.<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Chaque module Pololu dispose d'un potentiomètre de réglage situé à côté du radiateur. Ce potentiomètre contrôle l'intensité du courant délivré à chaque moteur. Le fait de tourner le potentiomètre dans le sens antihoraire (l'inverse des aiguilles d'une montre) réduit le courant envoyé au moteur. Le tourner dans le sens horaire augmente le courant délivré.<br />
<br />
Commnencez par diminuer le courant jusqu'a ce que le moteur commence à vibrer sur place au lieu de tourner normalement. Puis tourner le potentiomètre dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre, 1/8ème de tour par 1/8ème de tours jusqu'a ce que le moteur commence à tourner. Tourner enfin le potentiomètre d'1/8ème de tour supplémentaire pour finaliser le réglage.<br />
<br />
=='''Extrusion'''==<br />
<br />
Objectif: S'assurer que la température de la tête chauffante est correcte pour que le plastique soit extrudé correctement.<br />
<br />
''Pièce à imprimer : Aucune''<br />
<br />
==='''Température'''===<br />
<br />
Définir la température de la tête chauffante pour votre plastique : <br />
<br />
PLA : ~ 185 °C<br />
<br />
ABS : ~ 230 °C<br />
<br />
(+/- 15 °C, en fonction de votre configuration/matériel/consommable)<br />
<br />
A température, si votre extrudeur le permet, extrudez en tournant le gros engrenage à la main. Si votre extrudeur ne vous permet pas d'extruder à la main (direct drive), utilisez la fonction extrusion manuelle de votre logiciel de commande. Si le moteur fait des cliquetis ou que vous voyez le filament faire des sauts, c'est que ça coince et que c'est possiblement pas assez chaud.<br />
<br />
- Si c'est très dur ou que le filament saute, augmentez de 5 °C. Si c'est toujours dur, augmentez encore de 5 °C jusqu'à ce que la différence ne se fasse plus sentir, et pour finir réduire de 5°C.<br />
<br />
- Si c'est trop facile, ou que le plastique sort tout seul de la buse de manière très/trop fluide sans rien faire. Procédez de manière inverse. Réduire de 5 °C jusqu'à ce que la différence ne se fasse plus sentir, et pour finir augmenter de 5°C.<br />
<br />
==='''Pas de l'extrudeur (Extruder steps)'''===<br />
<br />
Objectif: Ajuster précisément le nombre de pas par unité de filament ''ingéré'' par l'extrudeur.<br />
<br />
La commande [[G-code|G-code]] "M503" vous permet de connaitre la valeur actuelle de l'extrudeur (dans l'EEPROM), tandis que la commande "M92 E<nouvelle valeur>" vous permet de la changer.<br />
Une fois la bonne valeur définie et pour fixer la valeur définitivement, vous devrez flasher le micrologiciel de votre électronique avec la nouvelle valeur.<br />
<br />
'''Calculer la valeur initiale'''<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
e_steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) * (big_gear_teeth / small_gear_teeth) / (hob_effective_diameter * pi)<br />
<br />
e_steps_per_mm = nombre de pas par unité de filament, ici millimètres.<br />
motor_steps_per_rev = nombre de pas du moteur, 200 pas pour un moteur de 1.8°.<br />
driver_microstep = valeur du microstepping du pilote du moteur, ex.: 1/2/4/8/16.<br />
big_gear_teeth = nombre de dents du gros engrenage.<br />
small_gear_teeth = nombre de dents du petit engrenage.<br />
hob_effective_diameter = diamètre de la vis d'entrainement du filament.<br />
pi = 3.14159<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
'''Quelque exemples classiques:'''<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
// Classique Wade avec un ratio de réduction de 39:11<br />
(200 * 16) * (39 / 11) / (7 * 3.14159) = 515.91048<br />
<br />
// Gregstruder avec un ratio de réduction de 51:11<br />
(200 * 16) * (51 / 11) / (7 * 3.14159) = 674.65217<br />
<br />
// Gregstruder avec un ratio de réduction de 43:10<br />
(200 * 16) * (43 / 10) / (7 * 3.14159) = 625.70681<br />
<br />
// MK7 Direct Drive avec un ratio de réduction 50:1 (planetary gear motor)<br />
(48 * 16) * (50 / 1) / (10.56 * 3.14159) = 1157.49147<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Source: [[Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide|Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide]]<br />
<br />
'''Ajustement de la valeur par la mesure'''<br />
<br />
Pour vérifier et affiner la valeur, on va mesurer la quantité de filaments que l'extrudeur ''ingère''. <br />
<br />
Pour ce faire, mesurez précisément 100mm depuis l'entrée du filament dans l'extruder en direction de la bobine et faite une marque au stylo, puis une autre marque 10mm plus haut que la précédente. Une fois à la bonne température pour votre filament, extrudez 100mm avec la commande manuelle de votre logiciel. Et mesurez combien de filaments a été ''ingérés''.<br />
<br />
- Vous mesurez 100mm, plus rien à faire on passe à l’étape suivante. <br />
<br />
- Vous mesurez par exemple 95mm (ou 110mm) alors on va calculer la nouvelle valeur.<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
new_e_steps_per_mm = (wanted_length/measured_length)*e_steps_per_mm<br />
<br />
new_steps_per_mm = nouveau nombre de pas par unité de filament.<br />
wanted_length = longueur demandée, dans l'exemple 100mm.<br />
measured_length = longueur mesurée, on va dire 95mm.<br />
e_steps_per_mm = ancienne valeur, on va prendre 515.<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Ce qui nous donne:<br />
<br />
<pre>(100/95)*515 = 542.10526</pre><br />
<br />
Il est possible que vous deviez répéter l’opération plusieurs fois avant de trouver la bonne valeur.<br />
<br />
=='''Hauteur de couche (layer height)'''==<br />
<br />
Objectif: Corriger la hauteur de couche ("Layer height" en anglais) pour refléter la véritable hauteur de couche de votre imprimante.<br />
<br />
Pièce à imprimer : [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17273 0.5mm-thin-wall.stl]<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Imprimez le cube aux côtés de 0.5mm d'épaisseur et assurez-vous que les couches adhèrent bien, sans que la buse ne vienne pousser ou tirer le plastique déjà déposé durant l'impression.<br />
<br />
Dans votre logiciel, en partant de 0.2mm, ajustez la hauteur de couche par incréments de 0.01, jusqu'à ce que vous obteniez une belle impression. <br />
''(pas convaincu de cette méthode voir lien plus bas)''<br />
<br />
En fonction des autres paramètres, vous allez peut-être trouver qu'il est difficile d'imprimer correctement les 4 murs. Pour la première passe, vous pouvez passer au test suivant dès que vous arrivez à imprimer un mur correctement.<br />
<br />
''Article complémentaire dans la partie francophone du forum : [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?110,272281| Hauteur de couche (Layer height)]''<br />
<br />
=='''Largeur d'extrusion (extrusion weight)'''==<br />
<br />
Objectif: Corriger la largeur d'extrusion.<br />
<br />
Pièce à imprimer : [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17273 0.5mm-thin-wall.stl]<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Dans votre logiciel de tranchage (Slic3r, Cura, Skeinforge, etc) renseignez toutes les valeurs concernant les périmètres à (diamètre de votre buse)+0.05mm, par exemple si vous avez une buse de 0.35mm, renseignez 0.4mm.<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
external perimeters extrusion width = 0.4mm<br />
perimeters extrusion width = 0.4mm<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Imprimez la pièce et avec un pied à coulisse, mesurez l’épaisseur des parois de l'objet à plusieurs endroits et faites une moyenne des résultats et comparez avec la valeur donnée dans la configuration de votre logiciel de tranchage. Si vous mesurez 0.42mm, c'est que l'extruder donne trop de filaments, si c'est moins c'est l'inverse, il donne pas assez.<br />
<br />
Pour compenser, on peut jouer sur le paramètre "extrusion multiplier".<br />
<br />
<pre>extrusion_multiplier = wanted_weight/measured_weight<br />
<br />
extrusion_multiplier = multiplicateur d'extrusion<br />
wanted_weight = largeur demandée<br />
measured_weight = largeur mesurée<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Ce qui nous donne:<br />
<br />
<pre>0.4/0.42 = 0.95</pre><br />
<br />
'''Mais si la valeur est inférieure à "0.9" ou supérieure à "1.1" il est préférable de jouer sur [[#Pas_de_l.27extrudeur_.28Extruder_steps.29|la configuration des pas du moteur de l'extrudeur]] vu précédemment.'''<br />
<br />
=='''Remplissage (Infill)'''==<br />
<br />
Objectif: Corriger le paramètre "infill" (remplissage)<br />
<br />
Pièce à imprimer : [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17274 20mm-box.stl]<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Mettez le paramètre "infill solidity" à 1.0<br />
<br />
Imprimez le cube et analysez-le dessus. S'il n'y a PAS ASSEZ de plastique (un dessus concave), réduisez le paramètre "Infill Width over Thickness" par incréments de 0.05 - S'il y a TROP de plastique (dessus convexe), augmentez ce paramètre par incréments de 0.05 <br />
<br />
Quand vous voyez que vous vous rapprochez du but, faites de plus petits incréments.<br />
<br />
Vous devriez aussi ajuster votre "feed rate".<br />
<br />
Ajustez la vitesse d'extrusion (feed rate) par incréments de 2 jusqu'à ce que vous vous sentiez proche du but. Si le résultat ressemble à du blob (un pâté), allez y par incrément de 0.5mm. Ensuite, continuez par incréments de plus en plus petits jusqu'à ce que vous ayez atteint une forme satisfaisante. Par ailleurs, vous devriez réduire le paramètre "Infill Width over Thickness" plutôt que de réduire le "feed rate", car réduire le feed rate signifierait baisser la résolution.<br />
<br />
=='''Contrôle de la Température'''==<br />
<br />
Objectif: configurer correctement la température du hot end pour votre nouvelle bobine de plastique.<br />
<br />
Note: vous constaterez que différents plastiques nécessitent différentes températures, tant pour l'extrudeur que pour le lit chauffant. Ce à quoi on ne s'attend pas, c'est que ces températures peuvent aussi varier selon la couleur pour un même matériau.<br />
<br />
Comme la tour a une surface d'impression réduite, vous aurez besoin de refroidir l'objet durant l'impression. Si vous n'avez pas de ventilateur sur votre porte-outil, vous pouvez utiliser un ventilateur de pc.<br />
<br />
Pièce à imprimer: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17276 50mm-tower.stl]<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Mettez 'Infill solidity' à 100%.<br />
<br />
Commencez par faire une simple extrusion pour déterminer la fourchette de températures à laquelle vous pouvez imprimer. Réduisez la température de 5 en 5°c, jusqu'à ce que le moteur commence à sauter des pas. Remontez la température de 5°c : c'est votre température minimum.<br />
<br />
Imprimez ce bloc.<br />
<br />
S’il ressemble à un gros pâté informe, réduisez toutes les températures de 5°c jusqu'à ce que vous obteniez quelque chose de correct. <br />
<br />
Note: attention à ne pas descendre trop bas sinon vous pourriez endommager votre extrudeur. En effet le moteur pourrait avoir du mal à entrainer le plastique et forcer sur la mécanique.<br />
<br />
<br />
===='''Recommandations'''====<br />
<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
<br />
Hotend: 175 à 185°c<br />
<br />
Bed: 60 à 70<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
<br />
Hotend: 210 à 230<br />
<br />
Bed: 110 à 140<br />
<br />
=='''Hauteur des périmètres (Perimeter Width)'''==<br />
<br />
Objectif : corriger la largeur du périmètre par rapport à la hauteur.<br />
<br />
Objet de calibration: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17277 perimeter-wt.stl]<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Ce test vise à imprimer deux objets prévus pour s'emboiter l'un dans l'autre.<br />
<br />
Essayez d'insérer le petit bloc dans le plus grand en changeant de sens. En cas de problème, vérifiez la tension des courroies.<br />
<br />
A FAIRE : Ajouter les instructions de réglage en tension des courroies.<br />
<br />
Si vous arrivez a faire rentrer de quelques millimètres, c'est bien. Si vous arrivez a le faire renter en entier, c'est encore mieux. Ça doit rentrer de manière ajustée, s’il y a du jeu et que l'intérieur peut bouger, réduisez le paramètre "width over thickness" du périmètre. Si vous ne pouvez pas le faire rentrer du tout, et que vous êtes sûr que rien ne bloque, AUGMENTEZ le paramètre "width over thickness" du périmètre. Ce dernier cas est plus fréquent.<br />
<br />
=='''Bridging'''==<br />
<br />
Objectif: maximiser les capacités a imprimer un pont au-dessus d'un trou (imprimer dans l'air).<br />
<br />
Objet de calibration: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17279 20mm-hollow-box.stl]<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Imprimer l'objet de calibration et si la face supérieure se courbe vers le bas, augmentez le "BRIDGE FEEDRATE MULTIPLIER" dans Vitesse par incréments de .1 jusqu'à ce que le dessus arête de pencher.<br />
<br />
=='''Print Precision'''==<br />
<br />
Objective: improve print precision<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17278 precision-block.stl]<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Then there is the precision block. No real huge calibration parameter here. Just play with this and see how well it does on the overhangs and shapes.<br />
<br />
TODO: We need to add some recommendations on how to improve this or find more direct methods of calibrating specific aspects of the print. <br />
<br />
=='''Overhang'''==<br />
<br />
Objective: fix overhang problems<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17348 overhang-test.stl]<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Then there is a simple overhang test. Print and observe the overhangs. This is up to you to figure how to improve the overhangs.<br />
<br />
TODO: We need to add some recommendations on how to improve this or find more direct methods of calibrating specific aspects of the print.<br />
<br />
=='''Oozebane'''==<br />
<br />
Objective: stop material oozing out of the noozle during 'non-printing' moves.<br />
<br />
Many extruders will emit (ooze) plastic even when the extruder motor is not turning. To overcome this your slicing software needs to 'retract' the print medium during head movement when not printing. The retraction creates negative pressure within the hot end heating chamber which effectively sucks the print medium back up through the nozzle, stopping it from oozing.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17661 oozebane-test.stl]<br />
<br />
The calibration object prints two towers about 30 mm apart. The head must move between each of the towers at each layer. If your printer is not set correctly then you will see many fine filaments (or strings) between the two towers. You can eliminate these filaments by eliminating ooze.<br />
<br />
Symptoms<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
This is to try to control ooze and calibrate it to be useful. <br />
<br />
Start by setting the Early Shutdown distance to 0 and Slowdown Startup Steps to 1. <br />
<br />
Print the piece and measure the length of stringers where the extruder shut off and the line is thick before becoming a thin whisker. Take that length and put it into early shutdown distance. <br />
<br />
Play with Early Startup Distance Constant until the place where the extruder arrives at the other tower is nice and smooth, so that there isn't any empty space where plastic should be, but there isn't excess plastic extruded.<br />
<br />
References:<br />
http://reprap.org/wiki/Sfact#Q:____What_happened_to_the_old_retraction_settings.3F__What_the_hell_is_oozerate.3F<br />
<br />
=='''Parties en saillie'''==<br />
<br />
''Objectif :'' éliminer l’affaissement des parties en saillie.<br />
<br />
''Pièce de test pour la calibration :'' [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:19658 BridgeTestPart.stl]<br />
<br />
Les parties en saillie (ou en surplomb) sont des parties dont les couches de plastiques ne s'appuient pas sous celle de dessous.<br />
<br />
==='''Instructions'''===<br />
<br />
Si la pièce de test s'affaisse, vous devrez certainement diminuer la valeur de "Bridge Flowrate over Operating Flowrate." Ou augmenter le "Bridge Feedrate over Operating Feedrate."<br />
<br />
=='''X & Y scaling'''==<br />
<br />
To be defined. Scaling goes into the STEPS_PER_MM of the firmware, track offset goes into the G-code compiler (Skeinforge etc.).<br />
<br />
OK, here we get a bit stuck. While the theory section below nicely shows how to calculate the optimum track offset, Skeinforge has no configuration option to adjust this value.<br />
<br />
: An excerpt from a chat between Greg Frost and Traumflug, on 2011/22/06:<br />
<br />
: [14:30] <GregFrost_> I calibrated the extruded length and then set feed=flow and pw/t and iw/t to 1.5 and immediately got nice looking prints. However, and here is the kicker, the objects are all slightly too big because my single wall box has an actual w/t of 2.1<br />
: [14:31] <GregFrost_> I can fix this with p flow but then i get thin preimeters and they dont alway bond well to each other (but objects are the right size).<br />
: [14:31] <GregFrost_> I would like normal flow on the perim but a wider w/t but if i do that it adjusts all of the flows up and I get far too much plastic.<br />
: [14:32] <GregFrost_> what I really need is a way to change the distance inside the objest that the perimeter is traced without changing the flow rates.<br />
: [14:37] <Traumflug> To be honest, I never used Skeinforge, this adjustable track offset is an assumption.<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: it would be a good setting, i agree.<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: I think the only way to achieve a track offset is to adjust the perimiter w/t ratio.<br />
: [14:38] <Traumflug> So, Skeinforge doesn't compensate for track width?<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: it does. but it uses the perimiter witdth/t and infill w.t settings<br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: then it uses the layer height<br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: and useing those it works out the track offset.<br />
: [14:39] <Traumflug> ok, good to know. <br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: but the kicker is, changing perimeter w/t also adjusts the flow rate<br />
: [14:40] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: so theoretically when you choose a new w/t, it puts out enuf plastic to fill the width.<br />
: [14:40] <Traumflug> Yes, theoretically<br />
: [14:41] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: but on the perimiter if you use the same volumetric flow as the infill, it bulges past the desired width because there is no containing line.<br />
: [14:42] <GregFrost_> but the one setting that allows you to compensate for that adjusts the flow on all other lines (both infill and permiiters)<br />
: [14:42] <Traumflug> IMHO, changing the plastic flow to compensate for size errors isn't a good way.<br />
: [14:43] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: I agree completely.<br />
: [14:43] <Traumflug> Each time you change the flow, a lot of minor parameters change as well, so a prediction is very difficult.<br />
: [14:43] <GregFrost_> I want to change the track offset.<br />
<br />
='''Théorie et Maths'''=<br />
<br />
Par [[User:Traumflug | Markus "Traumflug" Hitter]].<br />
<br />
=='''Axes X et Y'''==<br />
<br />
Les 2 axes horizontaux doivent être calibrés en tenant compte de 2 valeurs : le track offset (décalage en largeur dû à l'épaisseur du trait) et l'overall scaling (mise à l'échelle globale sur la longueur du trait). Pour comprendre comment cela fonctionne, regardons le schéma ci-dessous :<br />
<br />
[[File:RepRap Calibration Frame Drawing.png | center | 600px]]<br />
<br />
C'est un cadre, identiques à ceux que l'on utilise pour mettre des photos sur les murs. L'essentiel ici est de mesurer à la fois les distances longues et courtes sur une même partie. Il faut mesurer les 2 pour pouvoir faire la distinction entre le track offset et l'overall scaling.<br />
<br />
À droite du schéma, on a esquissé quelques bandes déposées par l'extrudeur. Elles montrent comment le track offset fait que l'extrudeur se déplace très près du bord intérieur de la pièce, et que le côté extérieur de la bande s'arrête là où la pièce devait aussi arriver.<br />
<br />
Toutes les dimensions sont touchées par la mise à l'échelle, qui est une sorte de "rapport de vitesse" entre les unités de mesure et les pas des moteurs.<br />
<br />
==='''Calibration Object'''===<br />
<br />
===='''OpenSCAD'''====<br />
<br />
<nowiki>// X-Y Calibration object<br />
// See http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Theory_and_Maths<br />
<br />
difference() {<br />
cube([100,100,3], true);<br />
cube([80,80,3.1], true);<br />
}</nowiki><br />
<br />
===='''STL file'''====<br />
<br />
[[File:XYCalibration.stl]]<br />
<br />
==='''Basic Equation'''===<br />
<br />
With that knowledge, we can sum up what the extruder moves to get the size T = 10&nbsp;mm exactly 10&nbsp;mm wide:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
\mbox{movement} = ( \mbox{intended size} - 2 * \mbox{track offset} ) * \mbox{scaling} \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
This holds true for measurements of any size, i.e. also for the 100&nbsp;mm size of our calibration frame:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
M_{10} & = ( 10\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF ) * S \\<br />
M_{100} & = ( 100\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF ) * S \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
You see? Two unknowns and two equations, so the set is solvable.<br />
<br />
==='''Extending to Erroneous Movements'''===<br />
<br />
Now, the whole point of this writing is, the extruder movement doesn't match what we need to get accurately sized parts. So we have not only a movement, but also a movement error.<br />
<br />
Reason for the movement error is, according to the basic equitation, erroneous track offset and/or erroneous scaling.<br />
<br />
Get these two into the basic equitation, result to the left, reason to the right:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
& \mbox{movement} * \mbox{movement error} = \\<br />
& ( \mbox{intended size} - 2 * \mbox{track offset} * \mbox{track offset error} * \mbox{scaling} * \mbox{scaling error} \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
Again, this holds true for both our measurements:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
M_{10} * E_{M10} & = ( 10\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF * E_{TF} ) * S * E_S \\<br />
M_{100} * E_{M100} & = ( 100\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF * E_{TF} ) * S * E_S \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
<br />
''... to be continued ... about a formula to get scaling and track offset from measuring these 10 mm and 100 mm ...''<br />
<br />
=='''Axe Z'''==<br />
<br />
Sur l'axe Z, il n'y a pas à compenser le track offset, aussi la calibration se limite à la mise à l'échelle de la hauteur d'une pièce.<br />
<br />
Imprimez une pièce quelconque de 50&nbsp;mm de hauteur, laissez-la refroidir puis mesurez-la. Ensuite ajustez la valeur de STEPS_PER_MM (ou STEPS_PER_M comme dans Teacup) dans le config.h de votre firmware afin de réduire la différence entre la pièce voulue au départ et celle obtenue en réalité.<br />
Comme beaucoup de RepRaps utilisent des tiges filetées pour l'axe Z, la valeur théorique devrait être très proche de la réalité.<br />
<br />
N'oubliez pas aussi le retrécissement du plastique dû à la différence de température entre celle élevée de l'impression et celle ambiante.<br />
<br />
='''Further reading'''=<br />
* [[Printing quality]].<br />
<br />
='''References'''=<br />
<br />
* [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2011/02/polyholes.html nopheads blog on undersized holes] and how to make then accurate.<br />
<br />
<br />
='''Old Version of this Page'''=<br />
<br />
''put here as the new part is still incomplete'' --[[User:Traumflug|Traumflug]] 22:55, 21 June 2011 (UTC)<br />
<br />
''Is this part of [[commissioning]]?''<br />
''Is this part of [[Builders/Config/Config Axes]]?''<br />
<br />
To calibrate, you will need the following: a [http://www.reprap.org/bin/view/Main/MakeYourOwnRepRap Rep(st)rap], a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliper#Digital_caliper slide caliper], and printing material (ABS, PLA, HDPE, etc).<br />
<br />
You will also need [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:477 this] object file to print out.<br />
<br />
#Setup and load your printing material.<br />
#Print the calibration object.<br />
#Allow the object to cool.<br />
#Use the slide caliper to measure each edge and the diagonals.<br />
#Make a note of each measurement and this will allow you to determine where a problem is IF there is a problem.<br />
<br />
With the above measurements, you should be able to determine any alignment issues. The sides should measure withing .5mm of 40mm.<br />
<br />
if it is off consistently, then it is probably a firmware issue. <br />
<br />
Most inconsistent discrepancies are a sign of backlash (i.e. slop or play in your mechanical system). Make sure the grub screws on the pulleys are tight; make sure the belts are tensioned so that when you turn the stepper by hand, it immediately produces a movement in the axis; make sure all the bearings turn smoothly, and that the carriages only move along their intended axis. with all of that double checked, try printing your test piece again, and pay very close attention while it is printing. If your stepper motors make strange noises occasionally, it might be that they are skipping steps because they don't have enough torque. Try turning up the trim pot for that axis.<br />
<br />
If all this fails, the best place to go to figure out how to fix your issue, once you've identified it, is either to ask someone in the [http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?4 forums], or on [irc://chat.freenode.net/#reprap IRC], if you prefer. Then come back here and make this page better, or complain to the forum users.<br />
<br />
Once you get a simple cube printed adequately,<br />
you might consider trying a more difficult object such as the [[bearing clip 01]] for more fine-tuning.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Calibration/fr| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Calibration/es&diff=182641Calibration/es2018-06-07T17:11:44Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Calibration}}<br />
{{merge|RepRapSoftwareTweakingManual}}<br />
<br />
'''(En proceso de traducción, lee el apartado [[Talk:Calibration/es]] si quieres colaborar. ¡Anímate! ;)'''<br />
<br />
La '''calibración''' es el conjunto de ajustes necesarios para obtener impresiones exactas y de calidad. Aunque tu máquina RepRap puede funcionar hasta que la electrónica aguante, necesitarás calibrarla para tener piezas bien impresas. <br />
<br />
Sin la calibración, las impresiones pueden no tener las dimensiones correctas, no pegarse a la superficie de impresión y todo tipo de efectos no deseados que pueden suceder. Una RepRap puede ser calibrada para ser tan precisa como la mecánica lo permita.<br />
<br />
Una vez que has finalizado la construcción de tu impresora RepRap, el siguiente gran obstáculo a superar es calibrarla. Intentar imprimir antes de la calibración seguramente dará como resultado un pegote desparramado por la superficie de impresión.<br />
<br />
El siguiente conjunto de notas y consejos están sacados (y editados) de Coasterman, quien los publicó en Thingiverse. Han sido movidos a la wiki de RepRap para que puedan ser más fácilmente editados y mejorados por una comunidad más amplia.<br />
<br />
Las recomendaciones específicas hechas en este artículo, están basadas en Skeinforge (o sfact). Esta información debería ser bastante similar para otros softwares. Independientemente del software utilizado, el conjunto de objetos de calibración tiene un valor incalculable.<br />
<br />
Piensa que la calibración es un proceso continuo que necesita ser realizado a lo largo de la vida de la impresora. Siempre hay ajustes y retoques que se pueden hacer para mejorar la calidad de impresión.<br />
<br />
= PRESTA ATENCIÓN A ESTO =<br />
Mientras que la calibración es un [https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%A9todo_iterativo proceso iterativo], el orden descrito a continuación es bastante importante.<br />
<br />
Es '''ESPECIALMENTE IMPORTANTE''' que la calibración de los motores se haga lo primero ya que unos '''motores mal calibrados''' pueden '''destruir un Pololus''' y ¡potencialmente incluso los motores!.<br />
<br />
=Pre-requisitos=<br />
<br />
Antes de intentar la calibración, son necesarias algunas cosas:<br />
<br />
* La impresora debe ser de construcción sólida y firme. La máquina debe estar completamente acabada y todas las tuercas y tornillos bien apretados.<br />
* La impresora debe estar en una superficie estable, plana y nivelada.<br />
* Se debe tener a mano un calibre, un nivel y todas las llaves y destronilladores necesarios para ajustar la impresora.<br />
<br />
=Procesos de Calibración=<br />
<br />
== Calibración ==<br />
<br />
Objetivo: establecer la corriente adecuada para los motores paso a paso.<br />
<br />
Tus motores deberían ser silenciosos cuando están funcionando y a veces pueden hacer sonidos musicales, en especial cuando haces círculos. Si hacen una cantidad notable de ruido, entonces tienes un problema.<br />
<br />
Objeto de Calibración: Ninguno<br />
<br />
NOTA: una configuración incorrecta de la corriente puede dañar tus pololus y/o tu motor.<br />
<br />
=== Síntomas ===<br />
<br />
;El motor hace un ruido notable.<br />
: Normalmente significa que hay demasiada corriente en el motor.<br />
<br />
;El motor vibra sin girar.<br />
: Esto normalmente significa que tienes una corriente insuficiente en el motor. También podrías tener un problema con que alguna parte se haya atascado, lo que impediría que el motor pueda mover el eje.<br />
<br />
: También podría ser que esté fuera de los pasos/mm (por ejemplo, una errata en el valor del archivo de configuración): cuando los pasos/mm son el doble del valor correcto, el motor puede vibrar en el mismo punto.<br />
<br />
;El movimiento de los ejes se pausa por unos instantes y luego continúa.<br />
: Puede que tengas demasiada corriente hacia el motor, lo que estaría causando que el pololu se sobre-caliente. Reduce la corriente. Esto puede ser causado también por el firmware pero comprueba los motores primero. Otra posible causa es que el tornillo de fijación del engranaje no esté lo suficientemente ajustado.<br />
<br />
===Instrucciones===<br />
Cada Pololu tiene un potenciómetro al lado del disipador. El potenciómetro controla la corriente que es enviada a cada motor. Girando el potenciómetro en el sentio contrario a las agujas del reloj, reduce la corriente del motor y viceversa.<br />
Empieza ajustando el potenciómetro hasta que tu motor vibre en el lugar y no girando limpiamente. Ahora gira el potenciómetro en el sentido de las agujas del reloj muy poco a poco (un octavo de vuelta) hasta que los motores justo empiecen a funcionar. Entonces dale al potenciómetro un último giro de más o menos otro octavo de vuelta y estará listo para funcionar.<br />
<br />
== Nivelado de la cama ==<br />
Objetivo: nivelar la cama de impresión para que tus objetos se adhieran a la superficie. El resultado de este paso debería hacer que el nozzle se encuentre exactamente a la misma altura en cualquier punto de la superficie de la cama.<br />
<br />
Signos de tener una cama sin nivelar: El plástico se adhiere a unas zonas y en otras no. El extrusor puede “rascar” en algunas partes de la cama, levantando o deformando la superficie de la cama.<br />
<br />
Importancia: La primera capa de la impresión es los cimientos de todas las siguientes capas. Una mala primera capa podría significar que la pieza se despegue de la cama durante la impresión, formar pegotes de plástico, causando problemas en las siguientes capas y una gran variedad de inconvenientes.<br />
<br />
Objeto de Calibración: [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 bedleveling.stl]<br />
===Instrucciones===<br />
''Paso 1 – Establece la altura de una esquina:''<br />
* Mueve el nozzle a una esquina de la cama y mide su altura en este punto.<br />
* Acerca el nozzle a ala cama.<br />
* Usa una hoja gruesa de papel o un plástico como ''calza'' y deslízalo bajo el nozzle. Deberías sentir un pequeño rozamiento del nozzle en el papel mientras pasas el papel por debajo. Si no es así, mueve el nozzle arriba o abajo hasta que lo consigas.<br />
<br />
''Paso 2 – A por la segunda esquina:''<br />
* Mueve el eje Y (la cama se debería mover) a la segunda esquina.<br />
* Usando la misma calza, determina si la cama está muy cerca o muy lejos del nozzle en ese punto.<br />
* Ajusta los tornillos que sujetan la cama a lo largo de ese borde para que la altura en la esquina coincida con la de tu calza.<br />
* Vuelve a la primera esquina y comprueba la altura con la calza otra vez. Debería coincidir, si no, repite los pasos 1 y 2 hasta que lo haga.<br />
<br />
''Paso 3 – A por la tercera y la cuarta esquina:''<br />
* Hay dos maneras de ajustar esto – ajustando poco a poco los husillos que sujetan los carriles de tu eje X y ajustando la propia cama.<br />
** Método de los husillos elevadores:<br />
*** Mueve el eje Y a la tercera esquina y comprueba con la calza. Si está muy alto o muy bajo, apaga los motores y gira ligeramente uno de los husillos hasta que el nozzle se encuentre con la calza.<br />
*** Si usas este método, TIENES que volver a la segunda esquina y mover el nozzle/arriba/abajo de la calza y repetir este método hasta que ambos lados se alineen con la calza.<br />
** Método de la tuerca y el tornillo:<br />
*** Mueve el eje Y a la tercera esquina y comprueba con la calza. Si está muy alto o muy bajo, ajusta los tornillos del borde de la cama hasta que se alinee.<br />
*** Comprueba la altura con la segunda esquina y repita este método hasta que las esquinas se nivelen. <br />
<br />
Una vez que lo tengas, imprime el [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 Objeto para testar la calibración del nivelado de la cama] y asegúrate de que cada cuadrado es liso, suave y consistente.<br />
<br />
Existen otros métodos. Puedes mirar esta guía [http://reprap.org/wiki/Leveling_the_Print_Bed Leveling the Print Bed] (en inglés) para más información. Igual prefieres descargar el archivo scad original para adecuarlo a las dimensiones de tu superficie de impresión.<br />
<br />
== Preparación de la superficie de impresión ==<br />
Objetivo: correcta preparación de la cama para asegurarse de que los objetos se adhieren a ella.<br />
<br />
Información adicional sobre resolución de problemas se puede encontrar (en inglés) en [[Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide#Bed_Adherence|Bed Adherence section of the Print Troubleshooting Pictoral Guide]].<br />
<br />
===Instrucciones===<br />
Una cama mal preparada puede resultar en una mala adhesión del plástico a la cama, así como efecto “burbuja”<br />
<br />
Incluso la poca grasa de las huellas de tus dedos en algunas superficies, puede ser suficiente para arruinar una impresión.<br />
<br />
La preparación de la cama depende del material del que esté hecha tu cama, con lo que quieras cubrirla, así como con qué material quieras imprimir:<br />
<br />
==== Cristal ====<br />
Limpia el cristal con un limpiacristales común no abrasivo, usando un trapo sin pelusas. No escatimes en esfuerzos para asegurarte de que no dejas ni una mota.<br />
<br />
Otras alternativas recomendadas consisten en:<br />
* acetona/quita esmalte barato de uñas,<br />
* alcohol isopropílico.<br />
<br />
Con una cama caliente y ABS seguramente necesites algo para ayudar a la impresión a pegarse a la cama.<br />
<br />
Algunas opciones son:<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,156005 Agua azucarada (Azúcar disuelto en agua, aproximadamente a 1:10 en peso) -> temperatura aproximada de la cama, 95º)<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,121996 ABS líquido] (ABS disuelto en acetona, ej. de filamento de 3mm (0,07g) disueltos en 10ml de acetona) -> temperatura aproximada de la cama, 90º,<br />
* Cinta Kapton (se describe más abajo).<br />
<br />
==== Cinta aislante o adhesiva ====<br />
Cuando apliques cualquier tipo de cinta, es importante asegurarse de que la superficie de impresión es todavía suave cuando hayas terminado. Intenta poner la cinta de lado a lado, sin que se solape. Si vas a poner varias capas, puede ser de ayuda alternar las direcciones, así si hay algún defecto en una dirección específica, no se acumule capa tras capa.<br />
<br />
===== Blue Tape =====<br />
Para quienes imprimen con PLA, [[BlueTape|blue tape]] ha resultado funcionar bastante bien. Se trata de la 3M's 'Scotch-Blue Painters Tape for Multi-Surfaces #2090'. Esta cinta, se puede encontrar en rollos de 50mm o de 75mm. El PLA se adhiere a múltiples capas, por lo que se recomienda poner al menos tres capas de cinta, antes de imprimir en la superficie, para prevenir dañar la superficie de impresión. <br />
<br />
===== Cinta Kapton =====<br />
La cinta [[Kapton]] es una cinta resistente al calor que se suele utilizar para cubrir gran variedad de materiales usados en las camas. La kapton, ofrece buena adherencia para varios plásticos- Es importante evitar las burbujas mientras pones la cinta. El ''método húmedo'' ayuda bastante como se explica en [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVTWXGqNB2I este vídeo].<br />
<br />
==== Otros Materiales ====<br />
<br />
Se necesita más información para otros materiales.<br />
<br />
== Extrusion ==<br />
Objetivo: Asegurar la configuración correcta de la temperetura del hotend para que el material sea extruido limpiamente<br />
<br />
Objeto de calibración: Ninguno<br />
<br />
=== Pasos del extrusor ===<br />
<br />
Objetivo: Ajustar los pasos por unidad del extrusor<br />
<br />
Para establecer los pasos por distancia de filamento, (el filamento de 3mm o 1.75mm, NO el material que sale por el hotend) envía M92 E<Nuevo valor>. Puedes comprobar el valor actual mandando "M503". Tu software host es parte del [[CAM Toolchains|CAM toolchain]] que usas para mandar los G-code y controlar la impresoras.<br />
<br />
Si tienes el "conductor de filamento" (la parte del extrusor que guía y empuja el filamento) entero la primera estimación puede ser calculada, sin embargo el margen de error es demasiado grande como para dejarlo así. Es importante escribir valores iniciales bajos para M92, subir el hotend y el extrusor y entonces medir la longitud extruida.<br />
<br />
El valor resultante de '''(longitud_buscada/longitud_medida)*anterior_M92''' es mejor. Conviene repetir el proceso hasta que no cambie mucho.<br />
<br />
==== Calibración para la impresión ====<br />
<br />
También queremos calibrar basándonos en como imprime actualmente, basicamente se usa algo como [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119306 calibration Object] y se incrementa/disminuye el valor. Puede hacerse usando M92 E otra vez, o estableciendo multiplicadores de extrusion en Slicer.<br />
<br />
Se hace esto hasta que quede bien, incrementando si parece demasiado pequeña y disminuyendo si es demasiado grande. Hay imágenes en [[Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide#Material_Feed|Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide]].<br />
<br />
Nótese que esta calibración está afectada por la calibración xyz, si parte está hecha más larga de lo propuesto requiere más filamento para hacerlo, por lo que esa calibración debe ser correcta. ''Sin embargo'' los cálculos de los radios de los engranajes deberían dar ya valores muy cercanos a los verdaderos.<br />
<br />
=== PLA ===<br />
<br />
<br />
== Altura de la Capa ==<br />
Objetivo: Corregir los ajustes de altura de capa para comprobar la altura de la capa actual de tu impresora.<br />
<br />
Objeto de calibración: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17273 0.5mm-thin-wall.stl]<br />
<br />
Cuando tu extrusor imprime una línea de plástico, esa línea tiene una altura y una anchura. Tu puedes elegir esos valores.<br />
<br />
Los mejores resultados se obtienen cuando la altura de la capa < 80% del diámetro de la boquilla (nozzle), y la anchura de extrusión >= diámetro de la boquilla.<br />
<br />
P.ej; con un nozzle de 0.35, la altura '''máxima''' de la capa es 0.35*0.8='''0.28mm''' y la anchura de extrusión sería de 0.4mm o superior. Con un nozzle de 0.5mm, la altura de la capa aumentaría hasta 0.4mm, mientras que con un nozzle de 0.25 se puede conseguir una altura de capa de 0.2mm como máximo.<br />
<br />
'''Se puede utilizar una altura de capa inferior o una anchura de capa superior si se desea, no habrá ningún problema'''. El programa de fileteado calculará de forma automática el volúmen apropiado a extruir en función de la configuración elegida. '''No existe límite inferior para la altura de la capa''' - solo está limitada por tu capacidad para mantener un flujo constante con caudales bajos. Algunos reprappers han impreso capas tan pequeñas como 5 micrones - 0.005mm!<br />
<br />
[[User:Triffid hunter|Triffid Hunter]] (de quién cuya [[Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide|guía]] se ha tomado este texto :D ) recomienda una altura de capa de 0.2mm, y una anchura de extrusión de 0.5mm, independientemente del diámetro del nozzle que se esté usando.<br />
<br />
Slic3r elige automáticamente un ancho de extrusión, en función del diámetro de su nozzle. Si prefiere seleccionarlo usted mismo, puede especificar el ''ancho de extrusión'' en opciones avanzadas. Con frecuencia resulta ventajoso elegir modelos que tengan paredes con un ancho determinado, y mediante elección podemos asegurarnos de que su perímetro esté completo sin huecos en el medio y sin relleno.<br />
<br />
=== Instrucciones ===<br />
Imprima el cubo de pared delgada de 0.5mm y asegúrese de que las capas se adhieran bien pero que la boquilla NO arrastre material durante la impresión.<br />
<br />
Ajuste la altura de la capa en incrementos de .01 hasta conseguir una buena impresión. En los ajustes de Pronterface/Skeinforge, esto se puede encontrar en el apartado Craft > Carve.<br />
<br />
Dependiendo de otros factores, puede resultar difícil conseguir una impresión correcta de las cuatro paredes. Tras la primera prueba, si consigue que una pared salga bien entonces pase al siguiente test.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Relleno ==<br />
Objetivo: Corregir la configuración de relleno.<br />
<br />
Objeto de calibración: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17274 20mm-box.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instrucciones ===<br />
Establecer la solidez de relleno en 1.0 (ratio). En los ajustes de Pronterface/Skeinforge, la opción está disponible en Craft > Fill.<br />
<br />
Imprima el cubo y analice la parte superior. Si no hay suficiente plástico (parte superior cóncava), reduzca el ancho de relleno sobre espesor en incrementos de .05. Si hay demasiado plástico (parte superior convexa), aumente el valor del parámetro en incrementos de 0.5. En los ajustes de Pronterface/Skeinforge, la opción está disponible en Craft > Inset, o bien en Craft > Fill (dependiendo de la versión).<br />
<br />
Una vez estés cerca, empieza a reducir/aumentar en intervalos más pequeños.<br />
<br />
También es posible que necesite ajustar la velocidad de avance.<br />
<br />
Ajustar la velocidad de avance en incrementos de 2 hasta que lo vea completarse. Si el aspecto final no es el deseado, establezca incrementos de 0.5. A continuación, reduzca los incrementos de forma progresiva hasta dar con el resultado deseado. Aunque probablemente prefiera disminuir el ancho de relleno en lugar de la velocidad, dado que disminuir la velocidad de avance degradará la resolución.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Control de temperatura ==<br />
Objetivo: Ajustar la temperatura correcta de hotend para tu plástico.<br />
<br />
Nota: encontrarás que diferentes tipos de plástico una gran diferencia de temperatura, tanto para la cama como para el hotend. Diferentes colores del mismo material pueden requerir diferentes temperaturas.<br />
<br />
Como la torre tiene una superficie superior muy pequeña puede ser necesario enfiar este objeto así como tu impresora. Si la impresora no tiene soporte para ventilador puedes usar cualquier ventilador de habitación como sustituto.<br />
<br />
Objeto de calibración: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17276 50mm-tower.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instrucciones ===<br />
Configura el parámetro 'Infill solidity' a 1.0 en los ajustes de pronterface/skeinforge. Se encuentra en Craft > Fill.<br />
<br />
Si el plástico cae como un goteo en lugar de como un filamento cilíndrico, la temperatura es demasiado alta. -- http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Troubleshooting#Plastic_comes_out_of_extruder_head_in_a_flowing_state<br />
<br />
Empieza haciendo una prueba simple de extrusión para determinar el rango de temperatura en el cual puedes extruir.<br />
Reduce la temperatura en intervalos de 5 grados hasta que el plástico extruido empiece a "saltar" al realizar la extrusión manual. Sube la temperatura del extrusor 5 grados y apunta esta como la temperatura mínima de extrusión.<br />
<br />
Imprime este bloque. <br />
<br />
Si parece amorfo baja todas las temperaturas 5 grados hasta que obtengas un buen resultado. Es probable que no haya que bajar más de 5 grados.<br />
<br />
Nota: Bajar mucho la temperatura hace que sea más difícil para los motores conducir el filamento, pudiendo darse daños o deterioro.<br />
Para Hacer: lista de los rangos de temperatura para los plásticos más comunes.<br />
<br />
==== Recomendaciones ====<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
<br />
Hotend: 185&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
Bed: 60&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
<br />
Hotend: 230&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
Bed: 110&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
<br />
== Ancho del perímetro ==<br />
Objetivo: Corregir el "Ancho de perímetro sobre el espesor"(Perimeter width over thickness). En versiones más recientes, "Ancho de borde sobre altura" (Edge Width over Height).<br />
<br />
Objeto de calibración: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:481395 Perimeter_Width.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instrucciones ===<br />
Esta prueba imprime dos objetos, diseñados para encajar.<br />
<br />
Trate de insertar el bloque más pequeño en el bloque más grande. Pruebe a insertarlas varias veces de forma diferente y compruebe la tensión de las correas. <br />
<br />
TODO: Necesita notas sobre la calibración de la tensión de las correas.<br />
<br />
Si puede encajar ambas piezas unos mm, bien. Si puede encajarlas totalmente, impresionante. El ajuste debe quedar apretado. Si existe holgura entre piezas, reducir el "ancho de perímetro sobre espesor" o "ancho de borde sobre altura". En Pronterface/Skeinforge, esta opción puede encontrarse en Craft > Carve, en las Opciones de Laminado. Si no consigue encajar las piezas totalmente y está seguro que no existen restos que lo impidan, incremente el "ancho de perímetro sobre espesor" o "ancho de borde sobre altura". Este último es más probable.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Puentes ==<br />
Objetivo: maximizar la capacidad de impresión para puentes (p.e. imprimir sobre pequeños espacios de aire).<br />
<br />
Objeto de calibración: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17279 20mm-hollow-box.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instrucciones ===<br />
Imprimir el objeto de calibración y si la parte superior cae incrementar el BRIDGE FEEDRATE MULTIPLIER en el apartado Speed en incrementos de .1 hasta que la parte superior se mantenga.<br />
<br />
== Precisión de impresión ==<br />
Objetivo: mejorar la precisión de impresión.<br />
<br />
Objeto de calibración: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17278 precision-block.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instrucciones ===<br />
<br />
Then there is the precision block. No real huge calibration parameter here. Just play with this and see how well it does on the overhangs and shapes.<br />
<br />
TODO: We need to add some recommendations on how to improve this or find more direct methods of calibrating specific aspects of the print.<br />
<br />
== Voladizos ==<br />
Objetivo: Solucionar problemas al hacer voladizos<br />
<br />
Objeto de calibración: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17348 overhang-test.stl]<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Instrucciones ===<br />
Es un simple test de voladizos. Imprime y obserca los voladizos. Depende de ti averiguar como mejorar los voladizos.<br />
<br />
Por Hacer: Necesitamos añadir algunas recomendaciones de como mejorar esto o encontrar métodos más directos de calibración para aspectos específicos de la impresión.<br />
<br />
Gregor: Obtengo mejores resultados cuando añado un ventilador para enfriar el voladizo. Este fue mi objeto de calibración: [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:58218 overhang-test-gregor.stl]<br />
<br />
== Oozebane ==<br />
Objective: stop material oozing out of the noozle during 'non-printing' moves.<br />
<br />
Many extruders will emit (ooze) plastic even when the extruder motor is not turning. To overcome this your slicing software needs to 'retract' the print medium during head movement when not printing. The retraction creates negative pressure within the hot end heating chamber which effectively sucks the print medium back up through the nozzle, stopping it from oozing.<br />
<br />
==== Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17661 oozebane-test.stl] ====<br />
<br />
The calibration object prints two towers about 30 mm apart. The head must move between each of the towers at each layer. If your printer is not set correctly then you will see many fine filaments (or strings) between the two towers. You can eliminate these filaments by eliminating ooze.<br />
<br />
==== Calibration Object 2 (Variable sized towers for testing ooze): [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:20868 variable_size_ooze_test_nobase.stl] ====<br />
<br />
This is a simple model to help tune reversal parameters for a stepper extruder (using much less filament before actually testing the ooziness). <br />
It consists of a number of towers with different thicknesses, with different spacing between each tower. <br />
A well-tuned bot should be able to produce even the smallest towers.<br />
<br />
<br />
Symptoms<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
<br />
This is to try to control ooze and calibrate it to be useful. <br />
<br />
Start by setting the Early Shutdown distance to 0 and Slowdown Startup Steps to 1. <br />
<br />
Print the piece and measure the length of stringers where the extruder shut off and the line is thick before becoming a thin whisker. Take that length and put it into early shutdown distance. <br />
<br />
Play with Early Startup Distance Constant until the place where the extruder arrives at the other tower is nice and smooth, so that there isn't any empty space where plastic should be, but there isn't excess plastic extruded.<br />
<br />
References:<br />
http://reprap.org/wiki/Sfact#Q:____What_happened_to_the_old_retraction_settings.3F__What_the_hell_is_oozerate.3F<br />
<br />
<br />
Since [http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2841/slic3r-0910b-out-features-wipe-and-vase-options/ Slic3r 0.9.10b] there is a [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/186 wipe before retract] option (under Printer Settings => Extruder)<br />
which seems to make the most difference. Other options to consider: reduce temperature, increase travel speed, retracting more, retract slower, z-lift before travel or lowering extrusion ratios.<br />
<br />
== Overhangs ==<br />
Objective: eliminate droop from overhangs.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:19658 BridgeTestPart.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
If the calibration object droops, you likely need to decrease "Bridge Flowrate over Operating Flowrate." Or increase "Bridge Feedrate over Operating Feedrate."<br />
<br />
== X & Y scaling and steps/mm calculations==<br />
<br />
''The following information concerning steps/mm adjustments is outdated. It has since been agreed that steps/mm should be set to the exact calculated values since printing with non-ideal steps/mm results in an accurate test piece, but makes the dimensions on every other part even more inaccurate.''<br />
<br />
Scaling goes into the STEPS_PER_MM of the firmware, track offset goes into the G-code compiler (Skeinforge etc.).<br />
<br />
==='''tl;dr'''===<br />
<br />
The most simple way to get reasonably accurate parts is to simply ignore the track offset or to set it to some guessed value, then adjust scaling of the axes, only:<br />
<br />
: <math>\frac {\mbox {current steps per mm} \cdot \mbox {expected distance movement}} \mbox{actual measured distance}</math><br />
<br />
E.g.:<br />
(41.8*100)/94.94=~44.02780703602275121129 <br />
Then repeat: <br />
(44.0278*100)/99.95=~44.04982491245622811406 <br />
Until you get your desired steps per mm.<br />
<br />
* Useful G-code-commands to use with [[Printrun|Pronterface]]/[[Repetier-Host]] or whatever eases your RepRap replication.<br />
(''Do note that there is a setting in configuration.h that enable these EEPROM functions.'')<br />
<br />
M501 (show current settings (steps per mm etc)<br />
M92 X44.04982491245622811406 (change steps per mm to your calculated value, useful for any axis; X,Y,Z and E for Extruder)<br />
M500 (save your new settings)<br />
<br />
* In Teacup firmware you multiply these values by 1000, to get steps per meter, and put the value left of the decimal into config.h's STEPS_PER_M_X, STEPS_PER_M_Y, ... . Then, re-upload the firmware.<br />
<br />
===Track Offset===<br />
<br />
OK, here we get a bit stuck. While the theory section below nicely shows how to calculate the optimum track offset, Skeinforge has no configuration option to adjust this value.<br />
<br />
: An excerpt from a chat between Greg Frost and Traumflug, on 2011/22/06:<br />
<br />
: [14:30] <GregFrost_> I calibrated the extruded length and then set feed=flow and pw/t and iw/t to 1.5 and immediately got nice looking prints. However, and here is the kicker, the objects are all slightly too big because my single wall box has an actual w/t of 2.1<br />
: [14:31] <GregFrost_> I can fix this with p flow but then i get thin preimeters and they dont alway bond well to each other (but objects are the right size).<br />
: [14:31] <GregFrost_> I would like normal flow on the perim but a wider w/t but if i do that it adjusts all of the flows up and I get far too much plastic.<br />
: [14:32] <GregFrost_> what I really need is a way to change the distance inside the objest that the perimeter is traced without changing the flow rates.<br />
: [14:37] <Traumflug> To be honest, I never used Skeinforge, this adjustable track offset is an assumption.<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: it would be a good setting, i agree.<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: I think the only way to achieve a track offset is to adjust the perimiter w/t ratio.<br />
: [14:38] <Traumflug> So, Skeinforge doesn't compensate for track width?<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: it does. but it uses the perimiter witdth/t and infill w.t settings<br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: then it uses the layer height<br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: and useing those it works out the track offset.<br />
: [14:39] <Traumflug> ok, good to know. <br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: but the kicker is, changing perimeter w/t also adjusts the flow rate<br />
: [14:40] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: so theoretically when you choose a new w/t, it puts out enuf plastic to fill the width.<br />
: [14:40] <Traumflug> Yes, theoretically<br />
: [14:41] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: but on the perimiter if you use the same volumetric flow as the infill, it bulges past the desired width because there is no containing line.<br />
: [14:42] <GregFrost_> but the one setting that allows you to compensate for that adjusts the flow on all other lines (both infill and permiiters)<br />
: [14:42] <Traumflug> IMHO, changing the plastic flow to compensate for size errors isn't a good way.<br />
: [14:43] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: I agree completely.<br />
: [14:43] <Traumflug> Each time you change the flow, a lot of minor parameters change as well, so a prediction is very difficult.<br />
: [14:43] <GregFrost_> I want to change the track offset.<br />
<br />
=Theory and Maths=<br />
<br />
By [[User:Traumflug | Markus "Traumflug" Hitter]].<br />
<br />
==X and Y Axis==<br />
<br />
Both horizontal axes can be calibrated with two values: track offset and overall scaling. To find out how this is done, let's have a look at a part specially designed to find out those values:<br />
<br />
[[File:RepRap Calibration Frame Drawing.png | center | 600px]]<br />
<br />
It's a frame, similar to the one you use to put pictures up onto the wall. The essential part here is, it has long and short distances to measure on the same part. We need to measure both, to distinguish between track offset and scaling.<br />
<br />
To the right of the drawing, a few tracks laid down by the extruder are sketched in. It shows how the track offset lets the extruder move closer to the inside of the part, so the outer side of the track just ends where the part should end as well.<br />
<br />
All the sizes are overlaid by scaling, which is sort of a "gear ratio" between measurement units and stepper motor steps.<br />
<br />
===Calibration Object===<br />
<br />
====OpenSCAD====<br />
<nowiki>// X-Y Calibration object<br />
// See http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Theory_and_Maths<br />
<br />
difference() {<br />
cube([100,100,3], true);<br />
cube([80,80,3.1], true);<br />
}</nowiki><br />
<br />
====STL file====<br />
<br />
[[File:XYCalibration.stl]]<br />
<br />
===Basic Equation===<br />
<br />
With that knowledge, we can sum up what the extruder moves to get the size T = 10&nbsp;mm exactly 10&nbsp;mm wide:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
\mbox{movement} = ( \mbox{intended size} - 2 * \mbox{track offset} ) * \mbox{scaling} \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
This holds true for measurements of any size, i.e. also for the 100&nbsp;mm size of our calibration frame:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
M_{10} & = ( 10\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF ) * S \\<br />
M_{100} & = ( 100\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF ) * S \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
You see? Two unknowns and two equations, so the set is solvable.<br />
<br />
===Extending to Erroneous Movements===<br />
<br />
Now, the whole point of this writing is, the extruder movement doesn't match what we need to get accurately sized parts. So we have not only a movement, but also a movement error.<br />
<br />
The reason for the movement error is, according to the basic equation, erroneous track offset and/or erroneous scaling.<br />
<br />
Get these two into the basic equation, result to the left, reason to the right:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
& \mbox{movement} * \mbox{movement error} = \\<br />
& ( \mbox{intended size} - 2 * \mbox{track offset} * \mbox{track offset error} * \mbox{scaling} * \mbox{scaling error} \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
Again, this holds true for both our measurements:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
M_{10} * E_{M10} & = ( 10\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF * E_{TF} ) * S * E_S \\<br />
M_{100} * E_{M100} & = ( 100\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF * E_{TF} ) * S * E_S \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
<br />
''... to be continued ... about a formula to get scaling and track offset from measuring these 10 mm and 100 mm ...''<br />
<br />
==Z Axis==<br />
<br />
On the Z axis, there is no track offset compensation, so calibration is reduced to scaling of part height. Build any part of 50&nbsp;mm height, let it cool down, measure it. Then adjust your STEPS_PER_MM in your firmware's config.h to reduce the difference between intended and received part.<br />
<br />
As most RepRaps use a threaded rod on the Z axis, the theoretical value, which can be generated from [http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/ the online calculator], should match reality pretty close. However, there's also material shrink as the plastics is printed at a higher temperature than room temperature.<br />
<br />
=Further reading=<br />
* [[Printing quality]].<br />
<br />
=References=<br />
<br />
* [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2011/02/polyholes.html nopheads blog on undersized holes] and how to make then accurate.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Old Version of this Page=<br />
<br />
''put here as the new part is still incomplete'' --[[User:Traumflug|Traumflug]] 22:55, 21 June 2011 (UTC)<br />
<br />
''Is this part of [[commissioning]]?''<br />
''Is this part of [[Builders/Config/Config Axes]]?''<br />
<br />
To calibrate, you will need the following: a [http://www.reprap.org/bin/view/Main/MakeYourOwnRepRap Rep(st)rap], a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliper#Digital_caliper slide caliper], and printing material (ABS, PLA, HDPE, etc).<br />
<br />
You will also need [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:477 this] object file to print out.<br />
<br />
#Setup and load your printing material.<br />
#Print the calibration object.<br />
#Allow the object to cool.<br />
#Use the slide caliper to measure each edge and the diagonals.<br />
#Make a note of each measurement and this will allow you to determine where a problem is IF there is a problem.<br />
<br />
With the above measurements, you should be able to determine any alignment issues. The sides should measure within 0.5mm of 40mm.<br />
<br />
if it is off consistently, then it is probably a firmware issue. <br />
<br />
Most inconsistent discrepancies are a sign of backlash (i.e. slop or play in your mechanical system). Make sure the grub screws on the pulleys are tight; make sure the belts are tensioned so that when you turn the stepper by hand, it immediately produces a movement in the axis; make sure all the bearings turn smoothly, and that the carriages only move along their intended axis. with all of that double checked, try printing your test piece again, and pay very close attention while it is printing. If your stepper motors make strange noises occasionally, it might be that they are skipping steps because they don't have enough torque. Try turning up the trim pot for that axis.<br />
<br />
If all this fails, the best place to go to figure out how to fix your issue, once you've identified it, is either to ask someone in the [http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?4 forums], or on [irc://chat.freenode.net/#reprap IRC], if you prefer. Then come back here and make this page better, or complain to the forum users.<br />
<br />
Once you get a simple cube printed adequately, you might consider trying a more difficult object such as the [[bearing clip 01]] for more fine-tuning.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Calibration/es| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Calibration/de&diff=182640Calibration/de2018-06-07T17:11:32Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Calibration}}<br />
<br />
Dieses Kapitel widmet sich der Inbetriebnahme, Einrichtung und Kalibrierung des Druckers. - Das Gerät sollte zu Beginn dieses Abschnittes fertig zusammengebaut sein, die Elektronik fertig angeschlossen und die Firmware korrekt aufgespielt sein. Die Verbindung zum PC ist hergestellt und die Host-SW auf dem PC aufgespielt. <br />
<br />
''Der Autor dieses Wiki hat es anhand seiner persönlichen Erfahrung beim Einrichten seines ersten Druckers verfasst. Dieser wurde mit der Gen.7 Elekronik V1.5; der Teacup-Firmware und Repetier-Host ausgerüstet. --[[User:Bruchflieger|Bruchflieger]] 08:13, 25 February 2013 (UTC)''<br />
<br />
Der [[Calibration | englische Teil]] ist derzeit noch deutlich ausführlicher.<br />
<br />
= Einrichten der Motoren =<br />
<br />
== Motorstrom einstellen ==<br />
Der allererste Schritt, bevor irgend etwas gedruckt bzw. bewegt wird, sollte die Einstellung des Stromes für die einzelnen Schrittmotoren sein. Auf den Treiberplatinen (Stepstick / Pololu) sind kleine SMD-Potis, mit denen die Strombegrenzung eingestellt wird. Diese sind zunächst vor dem Einschalten gegen den Uhrzeigersinn ganz nach links zu drehen - das wäre der minimalst mögliche Strom. Dann den Drucker einschalten und im manuellen Modus die einzelnen Achsen bewegen (bzw. es versuchen). <br />
<br />
Deine Motoren sollten im Stillstand ruhig sein bzw. nur ein leichtes Rauschen von sich geben. Im Lauf können sie gelegentlich musikalische Klänge von sich geben, zum Beispiel wenn Kreise gefahren werden. <br />
<br />
=== Symptome ===<br />
'''Motoren machen erheblichen Lärm.''' - Dies bedeutet in der Regel, dass der Strom zu hoch eingestellt ist.<br />
<br />
'''Motor vibriert ohne sich zu drehen.''' - Dies bedeutet im Allgemeinen, dass der Strom für die Motoren zu niedrig eingestellt ist. Man könnte auch ein Problem mit einem verklemmten Teil haben, das den Motor oder die Achse stoppt. Es könnte auch sein, daß die Einstellungen für Schritte/mm in der Firmware total verkehrt eingestellt sind (z.B. durch Tippfehler). <br />
<br />
'''die Achsbewegung wird kurz unterbrochen, dann aber wieder fortgesetzt.''' - Möglicherweise ist der Strom etwas zu hoch eingestellt oder der Pololu benötigt einen Kühlkörper. Wenn dieser überhitzt, bleibt der Motor auch kurz stehen. <br />
- Überprüfe die Einstellung des Motorstromes noch einmal oder besorge eine Kühlkörper für den Schrittmotortreiber.<br />
<br />
'''Hinweise:'''<br />
Jeder Pololu hat einen Trimmpoti neben dem IC / Kühlkörper. Dieser Trimmpotentiometer steuert den Strom, der jedem Motor gesendet wird. Drehen Sie den Trimmer gegen den Uhrzeigersinn reduziert das den Strom für den Motor, das Drehen im Uhrzeigersinn erhöht den Strom für den Motor.<br />
<br />
Beginnen Sie mit der Einstellung der Trimmer vom niedrigsten Wert, wo Ihr Motor vor Ort vibriert, statt sauber zu Drehen. Nun drehen Sie den Trimmer im Uhrzeigersinn in kleinen Schritten (1 Achtel einer Umdrehung), bis die Motoren dann anfangen zu laufen. Dann geben Sie dem Poti einen letzten Tick von etwa 1 Achteldrehung zur Sicherheit und nun sollten die Motoren gut laufen.<br />
<br />
== Steps per mm ==<br />
Damit die auszudruckenden Teile auch wirklich die korrekte Größe haben, muss die Elektronik wissen, wie viele Schritte die Motoren der jeweiligen Achsen bewegt werden müssen, um den Druckkopf über einen definierten Weg (meist 1mm bzw. in Teacup 1m) zu bewegen.<br />
<br />
: ''' die riemenbetriebene Achse:''' <br />
Eine riemenbetriebene Achse wird in der Regel per Zahnriemen bewegt, dieser wiederum von einem passend gezahnten Ritzel. Hier zählt man zunächst die Zähne der Riemenscheibe (z.B. 20 Zähne). Der von mir verwendete Zahnriemen hatte einen Zahnabstand von 2,5mm. Daraus kann man errechnen, daß pro kompletter Umdrehung der Riemenscheibe der Riemen um 50mm bewegt wird. Mein Schrittmotor benötigt pro Umdrehung 200 Schritte, und wird im 1/8 Microstepping betrieben. -> Pro Umdrehung macht das dann 1600 Schrittchen. Diese 1600 Schrittchen dividiert man durch die 50mm pro Umdrehung und erhält so einen Wert von 32 Schritten pro mm bzw. 32000 Schritten pro Meter.<br />
: ''' eine Achse, die mit Gewindestange und Mutter bewegt wird:'''<br />
Für die Berechnung einer per Gewindestange und Mutter angetriebenen Achse benötigt man die Steigung des eingesetzten Gewindes (M6 hat 1mm Steigung pro Umdrehung und M8 hat 1,25mm Steigung). Eine Tabelle zu den verschiedenen Gewinden gibt es [http://www.uhe.de/fileadmin/media/downloads/dateien/Gewindenormen.pdf hier]. <br />
Für die weitere Betrachtung gehen wir von einem M8 Gewinde aus. - Steigung pro Umdrehung = 1,25mm; unser Motor mit 1/8 Microstepping hat 1600 Schritte pro Umdrehung - 1600/1,25 = 1280 Schritte pro mm bzw. 1280000 Schritte pro Meter.<br />
: ''' der Extruder:''' <br />
Das Einstellen der Fördermenge des Extruders kann man zwar auch berechnen, aber ich fand es diesmal einfacher es über ein paar Verhältnisgleichungen und ausprobieren zu realisieren. Dazu habe ich ein kleines Excel-sheet kreiert, welches ich hier hochgeladen habe: [[File:Extruder.xls]] - in die gelben bzw. orangenen Felder die geforterten Werte eintragen, im grünen bekommst dann das Ergebnis. <br />
In der Config.h gibt es den Block, wo die Steps per meter eingetragen werden. Die Zeilen dafür sehen dann in etwa so aus:<br />
#define STEPS_PER_M_X 32000<br />
#define STEPS_PER_M_Y 32000<br />
#define STEPS_PER_M_Z 1280000<br />
#define STEPS_PER_M_E 111082<br />
Die letzte dieser Zeilen ist für den Extruder. Dieser Wert ist der erste benötigte Wert in der xls. Der 2. ist der Weg zu diesen Steps in mm (1Meter = 1000mm) <br />
in Repetier-Host kann man im manuellen Modus einen Wert eingeben, wieviel mm Filament bewegt werden soll. Wenn man dort 30mm vorgibt und dann aber real nur 26mm misst (Weißes Filament mit einem Strich markieren und zurückgelegten Weg messen) dann bekommt man im Grünen Feld den neu einzugebenden Wert der Steps zurück.<br />
<br />
== Bewegungsrichtungen und Homing-Richtungen anpassen ==<br />
Im Nachfolgenden Abschnitt benötigt man zum Teil eine flinke hand zum Netzschalter des Duckers. - Vor dem Aufspielen der um die korrekten Steps/m korrigierten Firmware kann man noch 2 Dinge kontrollieren: Laufen die Achsen in die korrekten Richtungen, oder müssten Laufrichtungen umgekehrt werden? Und wenn man die Homing-Funktionen der einzelnen Achsen mal antestet - fahren die Achsen dann auch in die richtige Richtung? (wenn die Achse beim Homing in die falsche Richtung läuft, kann man nur noch das Netzteil ausschalten oder den entsprechenden Endschalter per Hand betätigen - was gerade schneller geht) <br />
<br />
Bei meinem Drucker mußte ich die Motoren für X und Extruder umkehren - dies erfolgt ebenfalls in der Config.h - User der Teacup-FW scrollen dann bis zum Abschnitt 3.Pinouts runter und etfernen dann zB. die beiden Schrägstriche zu Beginn der Zeile <br />
//#define X_INVERT_DIR <br />
<br />
Wenn beim Homing eine Achse in die verkehrte Richtung läuft, korrigiert man das durch Entfernen der beiden Schrägstriche am Beginn der Zeile <br />
//#define X_INVERT_MIN<br />
<br />
== Erfolgskontrolle ==<br />
Jetzt bitte die geänderte Firmware neu compilieren und aufspielen. Danach solten die Achsen sich in die korrekten Richtungen und um die eingegebenen Werte bewegen. Das bitte bei allen Achsen kontrollieren. Mit Lineal oder Messschieber messen, ob die zurückgelegten Wege mit den im Host gestarteten Bewegungen übereinstimmen - ggf. noch einmal korrigieren (dafür eignet sich dann ja auch des Excel-Tab).<br />
<br />
Ebenfalls die Laufrichtungen beobachten und die Homing-funktionen der einzelnen Achsen testen. (G28 startet das Homing aller Achsen, Mit dem Zusatz X,Y oder Z kann jede Achse einzeln getestet werden). - Auch hier wieder falls nötig Korrekturen vornehmen und neu hochladen.<br />
<br />
Nach Abschluß dieses Kapitels sollten alle Achsen incl. Extruder relativ genau bewegt werden können. Weitere Trimmungen sollen per Maschinenbefehl bzw. nach Ausdrucken und messen von Testobjekten möglich sein, doch dazu später mehr.<br />
<br />
== Druckbetteinrichtung ==<br />
<br />
Siehe auch [[Configuring Marlin Bed Dimensions/de| Marlin Drukbetteinstellungen]]<br />
<br />
[http://richrap.blogspot.de/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html Slic3r is nicer]: was man alles bei Slic3r einstellen kann (Englisch).<br />
<br />
[[Category:Calibration/de| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Calibration&diff=182639Calibration2018-06-07T17:11:08Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Calibration}}<br />
{{merge|RepRapSoftwareTweakingManual}}<br />
<br />
<br><b>'''ANNOUNCEMENT:''' If you search for the latest up-to-date guide please take a look at [[Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide|Triffid's Guide]].</b><br />
<br />
'''Calibration''' is the collection of mechanical "tweaking" processes needed to get exact, quality prints. While your [[RepRap machine]] may be working as far as the [[electronics]] are concerned, calibration is necessary to have well printed parts.<br />
<br />
Without calibration, prints may not be the correct dimensions, they may not stick to the build surface, and a variety of other not-so-wanted effects can occur. A RepRap can be calibrated to be as accurate as the mechanics allow.<br />
<br />
Once you have finished the physical build of your RepRap printer, calibration is the next big hurdle. Trying to print before calibration will likely result in a messy "blob" smeared over the [[printer bed]].<br />
<br />
The following set of objects and notes are taken (and edited) from Coasterman who posted them to [[Thingiverse]]. They have been moved to the RepRap wiki so that they could more easily be edited and contributed to by the broader community. <br />
<br />
Though the specific recommendation made in this article are based on [[Skeinforge]] (or [[sfact]]), this information should be nearly equivalent for most other software. Regardless of the software used, the techniques described and the set of calibration objects are invaluable.<br />
<br />
Note that calibration is an ongoing process that needs to be performed throughout the life of the printer. There are almost always adjustments and tweaks that can be done to improve print quality.<br />
<br />
= PAY ATTENTION TO THIS =<br />
Whilst calibration is a somewhat iterative process; the order of calibration laid out below is quite important. <br />
<br />
It is '''PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT''' that the calibration of the motors is done first as '''poorly calibrated motors''' can '''destroy a [[stepper motor driver]] (e.g. [[Pololu stepper driver board|Pololu]]s)''' and potentially the motors!<br />
<br />
=Prerequisites=<br />
<br />
Before attempting calibration, a few things are necessary:<br />
* A stable build process should be established. Your machine should be completely built and all of the nuts and bolts tightened down.<br />
* The machine should be on a steady, flat, level surface.<br />
* Calipers, a level, and any necessary wrenches/screwdrivers to adjust the machine should be handy.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Calibration processes=<br />
== Motherboard ==<br />
Whilst not technically a calibration issue, if you don't set the firmware's motherboard setting correctly then calibration simply won't work.<br />
<br />
Basically [[List of Firmware|each firmware]] supports a number of [[List of electronics|different motherboards]]. As such, one of the first things you need to do is correctly specify the correct motherboard.<br />
<br />
For [[Marlin]] edit Configuration.h and find the line:<br />
<br />
#define MOTHERBOARD XX<br />
<br />
Change the XX to the number which corresponds to your printer's motherboard.<br />
<br />
== Motor Calibration ==<br />
<br />
Objective: set the current for the [[stepper motor]]s to the correct level.<br />
<br />
Your motors should be quiet when running and can occasionally make musical sounds, particularly when making circles. If they are making a fair amount of noise then you have a problem. <br />
<br />
Calibration Object: None<br />
<br />
NOTE: incorrect current settings can damage your stepper motor driver and/or your motors.<br />
<br />
=== Symptoms ===<br />
<br />
'''Motor make significant noise.'''<br />
<br />
This generally means you have too much current to the motor.<br />
<br />
'''Motor vibrates without turning.'''<br />
<br />
This generally means that you have insufficient current to the motor. You could also have a problem with a part sticking which stops the motor from being able to drive the axis.<br />
It might also be possible to be way off in your steps/mm (e.g. a typo in your value in the config file): when steps/mm is double the correct value your motor might vibrate on the spot.<br />
<br />
'''Axis movement pauses momentarily and then resumes.'''<br />
<br />
You may have too much current going to the motor which is causing the stepper motor driver to over-heat. Reduce the current. This can also be caused by firmware but check your motors first. Another possible cause is the set screw on the gear is not tight enough.<br />
<br />
===Instructions===<br />
Each [[Pololu stepper driver board|Pololu]] has a trimpot located next to the heatsink. The trimpot controls the current that is sent to each motor. Turning the trimpot counter-clockwise reduces the current to the motor, turning it clockwise increases the current to the motor.<br />
<br />
Start by adjusting the trimpot down until your motor vibrates on the spot rather than turning cleanly. Now turn the trimpot in a clockwise direction in small increments (1 eighth of a turn) until the motors just start running. Then give the trim port a final turn of about 1 eighth of a turn and your should be good to go.<br />
<br />
== Thermistor ==<br />
Like your motherboard, most firmware support a variety of [[thermistor]]s. You need to ensure that the firmware is set to match your thermistor. If it doesn't, then your temperature readings won't match the real world.<br />
<br />
For marlin the settings are in Configuration.h under 'Thermal Settings'.<br />
<br />
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5<br />
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0<br />
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0<br />
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 2<br />
<br />
<br />
TEMP_SENSOR_0 is normally your hot end and TEMP_SENSOR_BED is normally your [[Heated bed|bed]]. Set both according to the table of supported thermistors.<br />
<br />
== End Stop ==<br />
Objective: to correctly set the [[endstop]]s on each axis.<br />
<br />
The results of this step should see each axis correctly home and not run into the opposite end of each axis.<br />
<br />
Signs of having mis-calibrated endstops: the bed or extruder physically crash into either end of their axis.<br />
<br />
Importance: <br />
<br>An head (extruder) crash can damage the extruder, bed, cogs or motors.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: none<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Each axis of your printer has a 'home' position and a maximum feed length. If the firmware attempts to drive the extruder or bed beyond either of the two end points physical damage to your printer is possible.<br />
<br />
Most printers have a single 'physical' end stop on each axis whilst some may have a physical end stop at each end of an axis. <br />
<br />
End stops are typically a micro switch which is triggered when the carriage or bed touch the end stop. <br />
<br />
Soft Endstop<br />
Printers with only a single 'physical' end stop will rely on the firmware implementing a 'soft' end stop. A soft end stop is always at the opposite end of an axis to the physical endstop. Together the physical and soft endstops 'frame' the axis and define the total travel of the axis.<br />
<br />
With a software Endstop each time you turn on your printer you MUST perform a 'home' operation. The home operations effectively lets the firmware know where the physical endstops are. Once the firmware has confirmed the location of the physical endstops it is able to calculate the location of the soft endstops as a simple travel distance in millimetres.<br />
<br />
A soft endstop is therefore simply a measurement entered into the firmware that tells the firmware how many millimetres of travel the axis has from the physical end stop before physically crashing into the opposite end of the axis.<br />
<br />
==== Hard Endstops ====<br />
<br />
Work with each axis in turn.<br />
<br />
Start with the x end stop. <br />
Position in the Extruder so that it is in the middle of the carriage and well clear of the bed.<br />
<br />
Most printer software will let you move each of the axis in small increments in both directions.<br />
<br />
Connect your printer software so that you can move the xaxis. Ideally you need to be able to have the software move the axis about 10 mm.<br />
<br />
Start by testing that your endstop is working.<br />
<br />
Manually close x axis endstop (e.g. with your finger :D ).<br />
<br />
With the carriage centred instruct the software to move the axis 10 mm towards the physical endstop.<br />
<br />
Now instruct the software to move the axis 10 mm away from the physical endstop.<br />
<br />
If the carriage moves in neither direction then you may need to invert your axis 'enabled' state. <br />
<br />
But make certain the power is on first ;)<br />
<br />
Normally an axis is enabled when the endstop is 'Active Low' (end stop switch is open). In your case it appears that this needs to be reversed.<br />
<br />
When using Marlin firmware change X_ENABLE_ON from 0 to 1.<br />
<br />
After reflashing the firmware, perform the above test again to ensure the endstop is working.<br />
<br />
Recentre the carriage.<br />
<br />
With the endstop closed instruct the software to move the axis 10 mm 'towards' from the physical end stop.<br />
<br />
It should refuse to move.<br />
<br />
If the end stop moves then whilst holding the endstop closed instruct the axis to move 10 mm 'away' from the physical endstop. If it refuses to move then you need to 'invert' the 'x' direction for the endstop.<br />
<br />
If you are using Marlin this requires both the INVERT_X_DIR and the X_HOME_DIR to be reversed to false and 1 respectively.<br />
<br />
Once you have reflashed the firmware with the above settings perform the test again to ensure that the axis refuses to move 'towards' the endstop when it is manually closed.<br />
<br />
The next action is to find the limit of the x axis in the direction of the physical endstop. The limit is defined as the most extreme position the x axis can be in without impacting the side of the printer. <br />
<br />
Move the x axis slowly towards the physical endstop. As you approach the end stop reduce the number of mm you move each time. <br />
<br />
Check the carriage before each move to ensure that the next move isn't going to cause the carriage to impact. Once you have the carriage in the most extreme position move the endstop into contact with the carriage so that the carriage triggers the end stop.<br />
<br />
Move the carriage away from the end stop and adjust the end stop a little further in towards the centre of the axis to give yourself a little more buffer between the carriage stopping and a possible impact.<br />
<br />
Finally you need to do a test 'home' for the axis.<br />
<br />
Have you hand near the power switch incase the 'homing' operation moves the axis in the wrong direction.<br />
<br />
Start by moving the carriage so that it is 10 mm clear of the physical end stop.<br />
<br />
Instruct the printer software to 'home' the single axis. DO NOT tell the software home ALL axis.<br />
<br />
The carriage should move towards the endstop, back away from the end stop a couple of mm and then move towards the endstop and on contact stop. <br />
<br />
If the carriage moves in the wrong direction or fails to stop when it contacts the endstop immediately cut power to the printer. Now repeat the above process again to correct the problem!<br />
<br />
You have no completed configuration of the x axis physical end stop.<br />
<br />
Repeat this process for each physical end stop.<br />
<br />
You should now do a test 'home' of ALL axis. <br />
<br />
==== Software endstop ====<br />
<br />
Configuring the software end stop is a simple matter of determining how far the axis can travel away from the physical end stop before it impacts the other side of the printer.<br />
<br />
Start by homing the axis. Now move the carriage in 10 mm increments towards the far side of the printer. Count the number of movements. As the carriage approaches the far side of the printer, you may want to reduce the travel of each movement. Once you are within about 5mm of the far side of the printer, add up the total distance traveled. This is the location of the software end stop for that axis. Repeat for the other two axes.<br />
<br />
Now update your firmware with the location of the software end stops. For Marlin firmware you need to se the X_MAX_POS, Y_MAX_POS and Z_MAX_POS with each of the above settings.<br />
<br />
Once you have reflashed your firmware. Home the printer on each axis and then with your finger on the power cut off switch send the carriage in the direction of the soft end point, reducing the distance of each move as you approach the soft end stop's logical location. Ensure that the carriage stops moving when it hits the soft and stop (and not the printer side).<br />
<br />
Do this for each axis in turn. Your end stops are now calibrated.<br />
<br />
==== Build Area ====<br />
<br />
Setting your bed size incorrectly will lead to your prints being off-center on the bed, or in the worst case "cropped".<br />
<br />
If after configuring your hard/soft endstops and performing a G28 (home all axis) your nozzle is "homed" at the lower left of the build-plate, you do not need to make any adjustments.<br />
<br />
However, if after G28 homing your nozzle winds up off the bed (probably below and to the left), you will need to tell the firmware how far away the true origin (0,0) is by setting the X_MIN_POS and Y_MIN_POS to a negative value equivalent to the distances from home to the start of the actual build-area in the respective directions.<br />
<br />
Example: My heavily modified RepRapPro Mendel has a 200mmx200mm build area but homes it's nozzle 30mm below the plate and 45mm to the left, by setting my Y_MIN_POS to -30 and X_MIN_POS to -45 the printer knows it can travel 245mm from home to right edge of my bed, but the actual bed is only under the nozzle after 45mm of X travel.<br />
<br />
More detail available on the [[Configuring Marlin Bed Dimensions]] page.<br />
<br />
== Bed Leveling ==<br />
Objective: To level the print bed so that your objects will adhere to the surface. The result of this step should make the extruder nozzle the exact same height above the bed across the entire bed surface.<br />
<br />
Signs of having an unlevel bed: Plastic will adhere to part of the bed but not others. The extruder nozzle might "dig" into parts of the bed, pulling up or deforming the bed surface.<br />
<br />
Importance: The first layer of the print is the foundation of all subsequent layers. A bad first layer could mean the part might peel off of the print bed during the print, "blobs" of plastic may form, causing problems in following layers, and a variety of other things.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 bedleveling.stl]<br />
<br />
===Instructions===<br />
''Step 1 - Establish a corner height:''<br />
* Move the nozzle to a corner of the bed and measure its height at this point.<br />
* Move the nozzle down close to the bed.<br />
* Use a thick piece of paper or plastic as a shim and slide it under the nozzle. You should feel a slight drag from the extruder on the paper as you pull the paper through. If not, move your nozzle up or down slightly until it does.<br />
<br />
''Step 2 - Getting the second corner:''<br />
* Move the Y axis (the bed should move) to the second corner.<br />
* Using the same shim, determine if the bed is too close or too far away from the nozzle at that point.<br />
* Adjust the screws that hold up the bed along that edge so that the height at the corner matches your shim.<br />
* Move back to the first corner and check the height with the shim again. It should match, if not, repeat step 1 and step 2 until it does.<br />
<br />
''Step 3 - Getting the third and fourth corners:''<br />
* There are two ways to adjust this - tweaking the jack screws that hold up your X axis rails and adjusting the bed itself.<br />
** Jack screw method:<br />
*** Move the Y axis to the third corner and check it with the shim. If it is too high or too low, turn off the motors and slightly rotate one of the jack screws until the nozzle height matches the shim.<br />
*** If this method is used, you MUST return to the second corner and move the nozzle up/down to the shim, and then repeat this method until both sides line up with the shim.<br />
** Nut and bolt method:<br />
*** Move the Y axis to the third corner and check it with the shim. If it is too high or too low, adjust the bed screws along that edge until they line up.<br />
*** Check the height with the second corner and repeat this method until the corners line up<br />
<br />
Once the bed is level print the [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 Bed Leveling Calibration test object] and ensure that each square is even, smooth and consistent.<br />
<br />
Other methods do exist. Reference [[Leveling the Print Bed]] for more information. You may want to download the original [[scad]] file so that you can change the dimensions to match your print bed.<br />
<br />
== Bed surface preparation ==<br />
Objective: correct preparation of the bed to ensure that objects adhere to it.<br />
<br />
Additional troubleshooting info can be found in the [[Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide#Bed_Adherence|Bed Adherence section of the Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide]].<br />
<br />
===Instructions===<br />
An incorrectly prepared bed can result in poor adhesion of the plastic to the bed as well as a 'bubbling' effect.<br />
<br />
Even a little bit of finger print grease on some surfaces is enough to ruin a print.<br />
<br />
Bed preparation will depend on what material your bed is made out of, what you intend on covering it with, as well as what material you expect to be printing:<br />
<br />
==== Glass ====<br />
Clean the glass with a non-abrasive common household window cleaner using a lint free cloth. Spare no effort in ensuring that the glass is spotless. <br />
Alternative recommended cleaners include:<br />
* acetone/cheap nail polish remover,<br />
* isopropyl alcohol,<br />
* 5% distilled vinegar.<br />
<br />
With a heated bed and ABS you will probably want something to help the print stick to the bed. Options include:<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,156005 Sugar water] (Sugar dissolved in Water, approx. 1:10 by weight) -> bed temp approx. 95,<br />
* [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,121996 ABS juice] (ABS dissolved in acetone, e.g. 10mm length of 3mm filament (0.07g) dissolved in 10ml acetone) -> bed temp approx. 90,<br />
* Kapton tape (as below).<br />
<br />
==== Tapes ====<br />
When applying any type of tape to print on, it is important to make sure the print surface is still smooth when you are done. Attempt to lay down tape edge-to-edge, with no overlap. If applying multiple layers, it can be beneficial for the layers to alternate directions, so that direction-specific defects do not build up as you add layers.<br />
<br />
===== Blue Tape =====<br />
For those printing with [[PLA]] filament, [[BlueTape|blue tape]] has been found to adhere well when using 3M's 'Scotch-Blue Painters Tape for Multi-Surfaces #2090'. This tape may be found in two inch rolls, or three inch rolls. The PLA will adhere to multiple layers, so it is advised to place down at least three layers of tape, before printing on a surface, to prevent damage to the print bed.<br />
<br />
===== Kapton Tape =====<br />
[[Kapton]] tape is a heat resistant tape which is commonly used to cover a variety of material types used in beds. The kapton tape provides good adherence for a variety of plastics. It is important to avoid bubbles while applying the tape. The "wet method" is particularly helpful as explained in this [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVTWXGqNB2I video].<br />
<br />
==== Other Materials ====<br />
<br />
===== Buildtak =====<br />
<br />
A semi-permanent adhesive-backed plastic sheet that is installed on the build platform. Does not require prep (e.g. hairspray). Works with ABS and PLA. Not clear what the lifetime is, but it is advertised as longer than tapes. [http://www.buildtak.com/ Buildtak]<br />
<br />
''TODO'': need details on other materials.<br />
<br />
== Extrusion ==<br />
Objective: to ensure the hot end temperature is set correctly so that material is extruded cleanly<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: None<br />
<br />
=== Extruder steps ===<br />
<br />
Objective: to adjust the extruder steps per unit<br />
<br />
To set the extruder steps per distance of filament, (the 3mm or 1.75mm filament, NOT the material that comes out of the hot end) send M92 E<new value>. You can check the current value by sending "M503". Your host software is part of the [[CAM Toolchains|CAM toolchain]] that you use to send G-Code to control the printer.<br />
<br />
If you received filament driver as a whole unit the first estimate is calculated, however the error margin is possibly too great to leave it as it is. Importantly, write the initial value for M92 down, then raise the hot end and extrude, then measure the length extruded.<br />
<br />
Then the value '''(wanted_length/measured_length)*old_M92''' is a better value. You might want to do it some more times until it doesn't change much.<br />
<br />
==== Calibration for printing ====<br />
<br />
We also want to calibrate based on how it actually prints, basically for this a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119306 calibration Object] is used and the value is increased/decreased, this can be done both by using M92 E again, or setting extrusion multipliers in slicer software.<br />
<br />
Basically you do this until it looks good, increasing if it looks like too little, decreasing if too much. Pictures are in the [[Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide#Material_Feed|Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide]].<br />
<br />
Note that this calibration is affected by the xyz calibration, if the part is made larger than intended, it takes more filament to make it, so that calibration should be correct. ''However'' calculations from gear ratios should already give values very close to the correct ones.<br />
<br />
=== PLA ===<br />
<br />
== Layer height ==<br />
Objective: to correct the layer height settings to reflect your printer's actual layer height.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17273 0.5mm-thin-wall.stl]<br />
<br />
When your extruder draws a line of plastic, that line has a height and width. You get to choose these values.<br />
<br />
Best results are obtained when layer height < 80% of nozzle diameter, and extrusion width >= nozzle diameter.<br />
<br />
Eg; with an 0.35 nozzle, your '''maximum''' layer height is 0.35*0.8= '''0.28mm''' and your extrusion width should be 0.4mm or greater.<br />
with an 0.5mm nozzle, your layer height can be up to 0.4mm, and an 0.25mm nozzle will give you 0.2mm max layer height.<br />
<br />
'''You can use a lower layer height or larger extrusion width if you wish, it will work fine'''. The slicing software automatically calculates the appropriate volume to extrude based on the settings you choose. '''There is no hard lower limit on layer height''' - it is limited by your ability to keep flow consistent at very low flowrates. Some reprappers have printed layers as small as 5 micron - 0.005mm!<br />
<br />
[[User:Triffid hunter|Triffid Hunter]] (whose [[Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide|guide]] this text was stolen from :D ) recommends layer height of 0.2mm, and extrusion width of 0.5mm regardless of which nozzle he's using.<br />
<br />
[[Slic3r]] automatically chooses an extrusion width for you based on your nozzle diameter. If you're determined to choose, you can use the ''extrusion width'' advanced setting. It is frequently advantageous to choose as models may have walls of a particular width, and by choosing you can ensure they are entirely filled with perimeter with no gap in the middle and no infill.<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Print the 0.5mm thin wall cube and make sure that the layers adhere well but the nozzle does NOT drag through while printing. <br />
<br />
Adjust the layer height in .01 increments until you get a nice print. In [[Pronterface]]/[[Skeinforge]] settings, this can be found under Craft > Carve.<br />
<br />
Depending on other factors you may find it hard to get all four walls to print nicely. For the first pass if you can get just one wall looking good then move on to the next test.<br />
<br />
== Infill ==<br />
Objective: to correct the infill setting.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17274 20mm-box.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Set infill solidity to 1.0 for this, using linear infill. <br />
- In Pronterface/Skeinforge settings, this can be found under Craft > Fill.<br />
- In Slic3r this is under Print Settings > Infill > Fill Density, set to 100%<br />
<br />
Print the cube and analyze the top. If there is NOT ENOUGH plastic (a concave top), reduce the Infill Width over Thickness by .05 increments. If there is TOO MUCH plastic (convex top), turn that parameter up by .05 increments. In Pronterface/Skeinforge settings, this can be found either in Craft > Inset in some versions, or Craft > Fill in other versions.<br />
<br />
Once you're feeling close, start bumping it around in smaller increments. <br />
<br />
You may also need to adjust your feed rate.<br />
<br />
Adjust the feed rate by increments of 2 or so until you feel close. If it looks really disgusting and blobby, go by increments of 0.5mm. Then go by smaller and smaller increments until you've nailed it. Although you probably just want to decrease Infill Width over Thickness instead of decreasing Feedrate because lowering feedrate will degrade the resolution.<br />
<br />
== Temperature control ==<br />
Objective: to set the hot end temperature correct for your preferred plastic.<br />
<br />
Note: you will find that different types of plastic have vastly different temperatures for both your hotend and your bed. What you might not expect is that different colours for the same material can also required different printing temperatures.<br />
<br />
As the tower has quite a small 'top' surface area you may need to cool this object as you print. If your printer doesn't have a built in fan you can use any room fan as a substitute.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17276 50mm-tower.stl]<br />
<br />
Something to be aware of is that there are multiple reasons an extruder can skip during a manual extrude. Take care of those problems first by setting the temp to the high end of the expected range (e.g. 235-240 for ABS) and making sure the extruder doesn't skip during a manual extrude.<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Set the 'Infill solidity' to 1.0. In Pronterface/Skeinforge settings, this can be found under Craft > Fill.<br />
<br />
If the plastic comes out as a drip instead of a cylindrical filament, the temperature is too high. Dead link, please correct: -- http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Troubleshooting#Plastic_comes_out_of_extruder_head_in_a_flowing_state<br />
<br />
Start by doing a simple extruder test to determine what the range of temperatures are that you can extrude at.<br />
Reduce the temperature in 5 degree increments until the extruder starts skipping when you do a manual extrude. Turn the extruder up 5 degrees and note this as your minimum extruder temperature.<br />
<br />
Print this block. <br />
<br />
If it looks like a blob, turn down all the temps by 5 degrees until you get something good. Chances are you won't need to do this more than 5 degrees. <br />
<br />
Note: Be careful as going too low can result in the plastic setting making it hard for the motors to drive the plastic, possibly causing wear or damage.<br />
<br />
TODO: list temperature ranges for common plastics.<br />
<br />
==== Recommendations ====<br />
'''PLA'''<br />
<br />
Hotend: 185&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
Bed: 60&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
'''ABS'''<br />
<br />
Hotend: 230&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
Bed: 110&nbsp;°C<br />
<br />
== Perimeter Width ==<br />
Objective: correct the perimeter width over thickness. In newer versions Edge Width over Height.<br />
<br />
When using [[Slic3r]], this is automatically calculated from the layer height. Adventurous sorts can modify this setting through Print Settings->Advanced->Extrusion Width->Perimeters. Slic3r accepts a fixed value (use the layer height and do the math to get Edge Width over Height), or a fixed % of the layer height (which is better, as this would be the exact multiple you would need anyway)<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:481395 Perimeter_Width.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
This test prints two objects which are designed to fit together.<br />
<br />
Try to insert the smaller block into the larger block. Try inserting it differently a few times, and check your belt tensions. <br />
<br />
TODO: Need notes on calibration of belt tensions<br />
<br />
<br />
If you can get it in a few mm, good. If you can get it in all the way, awesome. The fit should be snug. If it is loose and can jitter around inside, decrease the perimeter width over thickness, also called Edge Width over Height. In Pronterface/Skeinforge, "Edge Width over Height" can be found in Craft > Carve in the Slicing Settings. If you CANNOT get it in AT ALL, and you are sure there are no whiskers blocking it, INCREASE perimeter width over thickness or Edge Width over Height. The latter is more likely.<br />
<br />
== Bridging ==<br />
Objective: to maximize your printers ability to bridge gaps (i.e. print in thin air).<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17279 20mm-hollow-box.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Print the calibration object and if the top droops in, increase the BRIDGE FEEDRATE MULTIPLIER in Speed by increments of .1 until the top stops drooping.<br />
<br />
In Slic3r, this setting is called "Bridge flow ratio", under Print Settings > Advanced > Flow. If the bridge droops, try increasing or decreasing this in increments of .1.<br />
<br />
== Print Precision ==<br />
Objective: improve print precision<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17278 precision-block.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
<br />
Then there is the precision block. No real huge calibration parameter here. Just play with this and see how well it does on the overhangs and shapes.<br />
<br />
TODO: We need to add some recommendations on how to improve this or find more direct methods of calibrating specific aspects of the print. <br />
<br />
== Overhang ==<br />
Objective: fix overhang problems<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17348 overhang-test.stl]<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Then there is a simple overhang test. Print and observe the overhangs. This is up to you to figure how to improve the overhangs.<br />
<br />
TODO: We need to add some recommendations on how to improve this or find more direct methods of calibrating specific aspects of the print.<br />
<br />
gregor: i get better results when i add a fan to cool the overhang down<br />
<br />
this was my test object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:58218]<br />
<br />
== Oozebane ==<br />
Objective: stop material oozing out of the nozzle during 'non-printing' moves.<br />
<br />
Many extruders will emit (ooze) plastic even when the extruder motor is not turning. To overcome this your slicing software needs to 'retract' the print medium during head movement when not printing. The retraction creates negative pressure within the hot end heating chamber which effectively sucks the print medium back up through the nozzle, stopping it from oozing.<br />
<br />
==== Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17661 oozebane-test.stl] ====<br />
<br />
The calibration object prints two towers about 30 mm apart. The head must move between each of the towers at each layer. If your printer is not set correctly then you will see many fine filaments (or strings) between the two towers. You can eliminate these filaments by eliminating ooze.<br />
<br />
==== Calibration Object 2 (Variable sized towers for testing ooze): [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:20868 variable_size_ooze_test_nobase.stl] ====<br />
<br />
This is a simple model to help tune reversal parameters for a stepper extruder (using much less filament before actually testing the ooziness). <br />
It consists of a number of towers with different thicknesses, with different spacing between each tower. <br />
A well-tuned bot should be able to produce even the smallest towers.<br />
<br />
<br />
Symptoms<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
<br />
This is to try to control ooze and calibrate it to be useful. <br />
<br />
Start by setting the Early Shutdown distance to 0 and Slowdown Startup Steps to 1. <br />
<br />
Print the piece and measure the length of stringers where the extruder shut off and the line is thick before becoming a thin whisker. Take that length and put it into early shutdown distance. <br />
<br />
Play with Early Startup Distance Constant until the place where the extruder arrives at the other tower is nice and smooth, so that there isn't any empty space where plastic should be, but there isn't excess plastic extruded.<br />
<br />
References:<br />
*[[Sfact#Q:____What_happened_to_the_old_retraction_settings.3F__What_the_hell_is_oozerate.3F]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Since [http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2841/slic3r-0910b-out-features-wipe-and-vase-options/ Slic3r 0.9.10b] there is a [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/186 wipe before retract] option (under Printer Settings => Extruder)<br />
which seems to make the most difference. Other options to consider: reduce temperature, increase travel speed, retracting more, retract slower, z-lift before travel or lowering extrusion ratios.<br />
<br />
== Overhangs ==<br />
Objective: eliminate droop from overhangs.<br />
<br />
Calibration Object: [http://www.thingiverse.com/download:19658 BridgeTestPart.stl]<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
If the calibration object droops, you likely need to decrease "Bridge Flowrate over Operating Flowrate." Or increase "Bridge Feedrate over Operating Feedrate."<br />
<br />
== X & Y scaling and steps/mm calculations==<br />
<br />
''The following information concerning steps/mm adjustments is outdated. It has since been agreed that steps/mm should be set to the exact calculated values since printing with non-ideal steps/mm results in an accurate test piece, but makes the dimensions on every other part even more inaccurate.''<br />
<br />
Scaling goes into the STEPS_PER_MM of the firmware, track offset goes into the G-code compiler (Skeinforge etc.).<br />
<br />
==='''tl;dr'''===<br />
<br />
The most simple way to get reasonably accurate parts is to simply ignore the track offset or to set it to some guessed value, then adjust scaling of the axes, only:<br />
<br />
: <math>\frac {\mbox {current steps per mm} \cdot \mbox {expected distance movement}} \mbox{actual measured distance}</math><br />
<br />
E.g.:<br />
(41.8*100)/94.94=~44.02780703602275121129 <br />
Then repeat: <br />
(44.0278*100)/99.95=~44.04982491245622811406 <br />
Until you get your desired steps per mm.<br />
<br />
* Useful G-code-commands to use with [[Printrun|Pronterface]]/[[Repetier-Host]] or whatever eases your RepRap replication.<br />
(''Do note that there is a setting in configuration.h that enable these EEPROM functions.'')<br />
<br />
M501 (show current settings (steps per mm etc)<br />
M92 X44.04982491245622811406 (change steps per mm to your calculated value, useful for any axis; X,Y,Z and E for Extruder)<br />
M500 (save your new settings)<br />
<br />
* In Teacup firmware you multiply these values by 1000, to get steps per meter, and put the value left of the decimal into config.h's STEPS_PER_M_X, STEPS_PER_M_Y, ... . Then, re-upload the firmware.<br />
<br />
===Track Offset===<br />
<br />
OK, here we get a bit stuck. While the theory section below nicely shows how to calculate the optimum track offset, Skeinforge has no configuration option to adjust this value.<br />
<br />
: An excerpt from a chat between Greg Frost and Traumflug, on 2011/22/06 (typos corrected):<br />
<br />
: [14:30] <GregFrost_> I calibrated the extruded length and then set feed=flow and pw/t and iw/t to 1.5 and immediately got nice looking prints. However, and here is the kicker, the objects are all slightly too big because my single wall box has an actual w/t of 2.1<br />
: [14:31] <GregFrost_> I can fix this with p flow but then i get thin perimeters and they don't always bond well to each other (but objects are the right size).<br />
: [14:31] <GregFrost_> I would like normal flow on the perim but a wider w/t but if i do that it adjusts all of the flows up and I get far too much plastic.<br />
: [14:32] <GregFrost_> what I really need is a way to change the distance inside the object that the perimeter is traced without changing the flow rates.<br />
: [14:37] <Traumflug> To be honest, I never used Skeinforge, this adjustable track offset is an assumption.<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: it would be a good setting, i agree.<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: I think the only way to achieve a track offset is to adjust the perimeter w/t ratio.<br />
: [14:38] <Traumflug> So, Skeinforge doesn't compensate for track width?<br />
: [14:38] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: it does. but it uses the perimeter width/t and infill w.t settings<br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: then it uses the layer height<br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: and using those it works out the track offset.<br />
: [14:39] <Traumflug> ok, good to know. <br />
: [14:39] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: but the kicker is, changing perimeter w/t also adjusts the flow rate<br />
: [14:40] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: so theoretically when you choose a new w/t, it puts out enuf plastic to fill the width.<br />
: [14:40] <Traumflug> Yes, theoretically<br />
: [14:41] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: but on the perimeter if you use the same volumetric flow as the infill, it bulges past the desired width because there is no containing line.<br />
: [14:42] <GregFrost_> but the one setting that allows you to compensate for that adjusts the flow on all other lines (both infill and perimeters)<br />
: [14:42] <Traumflug> IMHO, changing the plastic flow to compensate for size errors isn't a good way.<br />
: [14:43] <GregFrost_> Traumflug: I agree completely.<br />
: [14:43] <Traumflug> Each time you change the flow, a lot of minor parameters change as well, so a prediction is very difficult.<br />
: [14:43] <GregFrost_> I want to change the track offset.<br />
<br />
=Theory and Maths=<br />
<br />
By [[User:Traumflug | Markus "Traumflug" Hitter]].<br />
<br />
==X and Y Axis==<br />
<br />
Both horizontal axes can be calibrated with two values: track offset and overall scaling. To find out how this is done, let's have a look at a part specially designed to find out those values:<br />
<br />
[[File:RepRap Calibration Frame Drawing.png | center | 600px]]<br />
<br />
It's a frame, similar to the one you use to put pictures up onto the wall. The essential part here is, it has long and short distances to measure on the same part. We need to measure both, to distinguish between track offset and scaling.<br />
<br />
To the right of the drawing, a few tracks laid down by the extruder are sketched in. It shows how the track offset lets the extruder move closer to the inside of the part, so the outer side of the track just ends where the part should end as well.<br />
<br />
All the sizes are overlaid by scaling, which is sort of a "gear ratio" between measurement units and stepper motor steps.<br />
<br />
===Calibration Object===<br />
<br />
====[[OpenSCAD]]====<br />
<nowiki>// X-Y Calibration object<br />
// See http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Theory_and_Maths<br />
<br />
difference() {<br />
cube([100,100,3], true);<br />
cube([80,80,3.1], true);<br />
}</nowiki><br />
<br />
====[[STL]] file====<br />
<br />
[[File:XYCalibration.stl]]<br />
<br />
===Basic Equation===<br />
<br />
With that knowledge, we can sum up what the extruder moves to get the size T = 10&nbsp;mm exactly 10&nbsp;mm wide:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
\mbox{movement} = ( \mbox{intended size} - 2 * \mbox{track offset} ) * \mbox{scaling} \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
This holds true for measurements of any size, i.e. also for the 100&nbsp;mm size of our calibration frame:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
M_{10} & = ( 10\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF ) * S \\<br />
M_{100} & = ( 100\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF ) * S \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
You see? Two unknowns and two equations, so the set is solvable.<br />
<br />
===Extending to Erroneous Movements===<br />
<br />
Now, the whole point of this writing is, the extruder movement doesn't match what we need to get accurately sized parts. So we have not only a movement, but also a movement error.<br />
<br />
The reason for the movement error is, according to the basic equation, erroneous track offset and/or erroneous scaling.<br />
<br />
Get these two into the basic equation, result to the left, reason to the right:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
& \mbox{movement} * \mbox{movement error} = \\<br />
& ( \mbox{intended size} - 2 * \mbox{track offset} * \mbox{track offset error} * \mbox{scaling} * \mbox{scaling error} \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
Again, this holds true for both our measurements:<br />
<br />
:<math>\begin{align}<br />
M_{10} * E_{M10} & = ( 10\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF * E_{TF} ) * S * E_S \\<br />
M_{100} * E_{M100} & = ( 100\,\mbox{mm} - 2 * TF * E_{TF} ) * S * E_S \\<br />
\end{align}</math><br />
<br />
<br />
''... to be continued ... about a formula to get scaling and track offset from measuring these 10 mm and 100 mm ...''<br />
<br />
==Z Axis==<br />
<br />
On the Z axis, there is no track offset compensation, so calibration is reduced to scaling of part height. Build any part of 50&nbsp;mm height, let it cool down, measure it. Then adjust your STEPS_PER_MM in your firmware's config.h to reduce the difference between intended and received part.<br />
<br />
As most RepRaps use a threaded rod on the Z axis, the theoretical value, which can be generated from [http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/ the online calculator], should match reality pretty close. However, there's also material shrink as the plastics is printed at a higher temperature than room temperature.<br />
<br />
=Further reading=<br />
* [[Printing quality]].<br />
* Delta Printer Calibration http://minow.blogspot.co.at/index.html#4918805519571907051<br />
* [[Configuring and calibrating a delta printer using the dc42 fork of RepRapFirmware]]<br />
<br />
=References=<br />
<br />
* [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2011/02/polyholes.html nopheads blog on undersized holes] and how to make then accurate.<br />
<br />
<br />
=Old Version of this Page=<br />
<br />
''put here as the new part is still incomplete'' --[[User:Traumflug|Traumflug]] 22:55, 21 June 2011 (UTC)<br />
<br />
''Is this part of [[commissioning]]?''<br />
''Is this part of [[Builders/Config/Config Axes]]?''<br />
<br />
To calibrate, you will need the following: a [http://www.reprap.org/bin/view/Main/MakeYourOwnRepRap Rep(st)rap], a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliper#Digital_caliper slide caliper], and printing material (ABS, PLA, HDPE, etc).<br />
<br />
You will also need [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:477 this] object file to print out.<br />
<br />
#Setup and load your printing material.<br />
#Print the calibration object.<br />
#Allow the object to cool.<br />
#Use the slide caliper to measure each edge and the diagonals.<br />
#Make a note of each measurement and this will allow you to determine where a problem is IF there is a problem.<br />
<br />
With the above measurements, you should be able to determine any alignment issues. The sides should measure within 0.5mm of 40mm.<br />
<br />
if it is off consistently, then it is probably a firmware issue. <br />
<br />
Most inconsistent discrepancies are a sign of [[backlash]] (i.e. slop or play in your mechanical system). Make sure the grub screws on the pulleys are tight; make sure the belts are tensioned so that when you turn the stepper by hand, it immediately produces a movement in the axis; make sure all the bearings turn smoothly, and that the carriages only move along their intended axis. with all of that double checked, try printing your test piece again, and pay very close attention while it is printing. If your stepper motors make strange noises occasionally, it might be that they are skipping steps because they don't have enough torque. Try turning up the trim pot for that axis.<br />
<br />
If all this fails, the best place to go to figure out how to fix your issue, once you've identified it, is either to ask someone in the [http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?4 forums], or on [irc://chat.freenode.net/#reprap IRC], if you prefer. Then come back here and make this page better, or complain to the forum users.<br />
<br />
Once you get a simple cube printed adequately, you might consider trying a more difficult object such as the [[bearing clip 01]] for more fine-tuning.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Calibration| ]]<br />
[[Category:Tutorials]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=ABS/ja&diff=182638ABS/ja2018-06-07T17:10:12Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|ABS}}<br />
<br />
== はじめに ==<br />
<br />
''アクリロニトリル・ブタジエン・スチレン'' ([[ABS]]) は、広く使われている 熱可塑性樹脂([[thermoplastic]])であり、軽量かつ射出成形([[injection mold]])及び押出し成形([[extrusion| extruded]])の両方が可能です。機械的特性は[[HDPE]]より優れ、[[PLA]]より脆さが小さいものの、エクストルーダやX-carrigeにファンを使わない設定をするなど、より高い温度を扱うための配慮が必要となります。<br />
<br />
* ABSは購入が容易で、低い摩擦係数から、押出しに必要な力が[[PLA]]より少なくて済むという良い点があります。したがって、[[PLA]]と比較して、より小さな部材を押し出す際によい特性を持つことになります。逆に、ABSの欠点は押出すためにはより高い温度が必要ということです。ABSのガラス転移温度(ガラス状態からゴム状態に遷移する温度)は105°C以上です。ABSはアモルファスであるため真の意味での融点は存在しませんが、標準的なプリントでは230°Cが適当といわれています。<br />
<br />
= 臭気 =<br />
ABSは押出し中に、弱い、気にならない程度の臭気を発生します。ただし、Rutkowski氏とLevin氏は「この臭気は、通常問題にはなりませんが、化学物質過敏症の人(やペットとしての鳥)にとっては呼吸困難を引き起こす危険があります。プリンタは、換気の行き届いた場所に設置し、臭気を吸い込むことのないよう配慮すべきです」と、文献「''Fire and Materials.'' Vol. 10, pp. 93-105 (1986) 」[http://www.fire.nist.gov/bfrlpubs/fire86/PDF/f86017.pdf] を引いて、ABSを燃焼させた際に生成される可能性のある物質について述べています。<br />
<br />
= 温度設定 =<br />
200-250°C。実際に使う素材によって最適な値を探してください。<br />
<br />
Makergeatの0.5mmホットエンドでの温度設定例は以下の通り:<br />
<br />
Ultimachine Red ABS: 215°C<br />
<br />
Ultimachine Natural ABS: 230°C<br />
<br />
= 押出し幅 =<br />
押出し幅は、顔料に影響を受けるといういくつかの証拠が伝えられています。もし頻繁にプラスチックを取り替えるなら、ソフトウェアの使用前に、それぞれがどの程度の押出し設定が適当か、測定しておくのはよい考えです。<br />
<br />
顔料の種類は、理想的なノズル径の大きさにも影響を及ぼすことがあります。 <br />
<br />
注意:私のABSフィラメントはとても柔らかいので、Dramel工具セットを使って歯付きボルト([[Making_a_Hobbed_Bolt|hobbed bolt]])の溝を切るのは簡単でした。ボルトは3mmのタップで切ったものがよい結果を得られるようでした(少なくともWadesエクストルーダでは) --DGM3333 21 Aug 2012<br />
<br />
= 積層面とその変形 =<br />
ABSは大きな部材をプリントしようとするとき、(冷却に伴う収縮によって下面ほど縮むことにより)積層面の両端がベッドからみて上方向に強烈な曲がり(warp)を起こす傾向があるのがよくない点です(ベッドから部材が両端を起点に徐々にはがれてしまいます)。これを改善するには、ヒーティドベッド([[Heated Bed|heated build platform]])が有効です。これを使うと、押出しに必要な力が少なくて済み、プリントが容易になって、[[PLA]]を使うのと同程度のよい結果が得られます。<br />
<br />
ABSはベッドが低温ではアクリルにくっつき、高温ではPETやカプトンにくっつきます。また、ヘアスプレーを均一に塗布したガラスにくっつくという報告もあります。<br />
<br />
加熱しないでABSを使うには、プリント前に、プリント面に貼っておくマスキングテープの上に、瞬間接着剤(シアノアクリレート)を薄く塗布しておくとよいようです。<br />
<br />
ABSをアセトンで溶解した液をプリント面にスプレーしておくという、薄い"ABS潤滑面"を作成する方法も、部分的な曲りを防止したり非常に均一な表面を簡単に得る方法として使えます。<br />
<br />
加熱する場合、印刷後の部材が十分冷却されるまで取り外そうとしてはいけません。<br />
<br />
= 入手方法 =<br />
Printing Material Suppliers参照。 <br />
もしくは、フォーラムをチェックすれば、どこで安価な素材が販売されている書かれているかもしれません。<br />
<br />
ABSフィラメントはだいたい1ポンド(約450g)で20米ドルです。安価なほど偽物――例えばABSとHIPS(安価な素材)の混ぜ物で、ABSの性質を満たさない可能性が強く疑われます。<br />
<br />
= 参考文献 =<br />
<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene Wikipedia: acrylonitrile butadiene styrene]<br />
* [http://haveblue.org/?p=596 Have Blue Dot Org: "We hold these truths to be self-evident, that not all ABS is created equal"]<br />
* [http://blog.thingiverse.com/2009/09/04/stuff-dreams-are-made-of-abs/ Thingiverse: Stuff Dreams Are Made Of: ABS]<br />
* [http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet.aspx?MatGUID=3a8afcddac864d4b8f58d40570d2e5aa MatWeb Properties of Extruded ABS]<br />
* [http://www.absplastic.eu 3D Printing and plastic materials blog]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Thermoplastic/ja]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=ABS/fr&diff=182637ABS/fr2018-06-07T17:08:59Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|ABS}}<br />
<br />
{{Material<br />
<!--En-tête--><br />
|name = ABS<br />
|status = Exploitable<br />
<!--Image--><br />
|image = Lego_Color_Bricks.jpg<br />
|description = Les briques Lego sont en ABS<br />
<!--Général--><br />
|discovered = 1946-1947<br />
|shrinkage = 0,4% à 0,7%<br />
|melting = 210°C à 280°C<br />
|density = 1,05g/cm<sup>3</sup><br />
|price = 20€/Kg<br />
|structure = Amorphe<br />
}}<br />
<br />
== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
Les poly(styrène/butadiène/acrylonitrile), plus communément appelés ABS, constituent une famille de copolymères à usages « techniques » du fait de leurs propriétés physiques et chimiques élevées : rigidité, résistance au choc, tenue à la chaleur, aspect de surface, résistance à de nombreux agents chimiques.<br />
<br />
Leur production industrielle et leur première commercialisation, par la société Uniroyal, remontent à 1948.<br />
<br />
Ils trouvent actuellement de nombreuses applications en construction automobile, dans l’électroménager, dans les domaines des matériels de bureau et de jardin, des sports et loisirs, des jouets...<br />
<br />
[[ABS|Acrylonitrile butadiène styrène]] (ABS) est une matière thermoplastique, appartenant à la famille des polymères styréniques, comme :<br />
* PS (Polystyrène)<br />
* SB ([[SB|Polystyrène-choc]])<br />
* SAN (Polystyrène acrylonitrile)<br />
* ABS ([[ABS|Acrylonitrile butadiène styrène]])<br />
* ASA (Acrylonitrile styrène acrylate)<br />
<br />
<br />
Ces plastiques ont tous une particularité importante pour le projet RepRap. La structure des chaînes de carbone est amorphe. Alors que la plupart des plastiques courants (PP, PE, PA etc...) ont une structure semi-cristalline.<br />
<br />
<br />
; Amorphe : Un seul changement d'état (solide - liquide)<br />
; Semi-cristallin : Deux changements d'état (solide - vitreux - liquide)<br />
<br />
<br />
L'inconvénient du semi-cristallin pour la technologie qu'utilise RepRap, c'est que le polymère n'aura pas le temps de refroidir, et finira en une monticule de plastique fondu.<br />
<br />
<br />
On peut fabriquer :<br />
* Des pièces volumiques à l'aide d'une presse à injecter (injection)<br />
* Des surfaces volumiques avec une thermoformeuse (thermoformage)<br />
* Des profilés avec une extrudeuse (extrusion)<br />
<br />
<br />
L'ABS a une bonne résistance mécanique. Mais il a une température du fusion plus élevée (fusion : changement d'état de solide à liquide). On l'utilise pour des pièces demandant une resistance mécanique un peu plus élevées.<br />
<br />
<br />
Il est pratique parce qu'il est plus facile à acheter et sollicite moins l'extrudeur que le PLA comme il a un coefficient de friction inférieur à celui-ci . Ceci améliore ses caractéristiques d'extrusion pour de petites pièces, comparées aux PLA. L'inconvénient de l'ABS est qu'il doit être extrudé à une température plus haute : entre 215-250 degrés Celsius.<br />
<br />
<br />
Et il est également très utilisé dans le domaine de l'électroménager. On peu avoir un état de surface bien lisse et brillant, en plus d'être autoextinguible (prend feu, mais la flamme s'éteint d'elle même)<br />
<br />
== Vapeurs ==<br />
<br />
A sa température de fusion, l'ABS émet des vapeurs de styrène (substance odorante). L'odeur est plus ou moins agréable selon les personnes. <br />
<br />
{{Danger|Cependant, l'ABS peux provoquer des maux de tête et des effet plus dangereux pour les êtres vivants ! (surtout avec des difficultés respiratoires)}}<br />
<br />
== Température du hot end ==<br />
<br />
Entre 225°C et 250°C, selon votre plastique et ses particularités.<br />
<br />
Températures avec une hot end 0.5 mm Makergear :<br />
* Ultimachine ABS Rouge : 215°C<br />
* Ultimachine ABS Naturel : 230°C<br />
<br />
== Largeur d'Extrusion ==<br />
<br />
Il y a eu un peu de preuve que la pigmentation peut affecter la largeur d'extrusion. Si vous commutez beaucoup les plastiques et leurs pigmentations ,c'est une bonne idée de mesurer l'extrusion avant le passage du processus de toolpath.<br />
<br />
Le pigment peut aussi affecter la température de idéale du nozzle .<br />
<br />
== Surface d'impression et altérations ==<br />
<br />
L'ABS est particulier parce qu'il a tendance à se déformer de façon catastrophique sur la surface d'impression en imprimant de grandes surfaces. On peut y remédié en utilisant Heated bed comme surface d'impression (dans le cas du PLA il est également pratique parce qu'il exige moins de force d'extrusion, et il est plus facile d'imprimer avec!).<br />
<br />
L'ABS adhère mieux avec un support acrylique lors d'impression a température ambiante ou des bandes de Kapton si la surface d'impression est chauffé. Il a aussi été rapporté que l'adhérence de l'ABS est amélioré sur du le verre avec une couche de laque.<br />
<br />
Sur une surface d'impression non-chauffé l'ABS peut être imprimé sur de l'adhésif en mettant une couche mince de super-glue (cyanoacrylate) sur la bande avant l'impression.<br />
<br />
Ces déformations sont causées par le processus de retrait du plastique, lors de son refroidissement (ABS : de 0,2% à 0,6%).<br />
Ce coefficient varie en fonction de la matière utilisée et de ses propriétés.<br />
<br />
Prenez cet effet en compte dans vos calculs si vous avez des cotes fonctionnelles à respecter !<br />
<br />
Lisez les instructions du fournisseur matière !<br />
<br />
== Disponibilité ==<br />
<br />
Allez chez les fournisseurs de matière pour imprimantes 3D. Cherchez les bonnes affaires sur les forums... quelqu'un pourrait pouvoir vous expédier des bobines d'ABS à bon prix.<br />
<br />
Le rapport quantité/prix de l'ABS extrudé est autour de 20€/Kg.<br />
<br />
{{MaterialsDock}}<br />
[[Category:Thermoplastic/fr]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=ABS&diff=182636ABS2018-06-07T17:07:57Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|ABS}}<br />
<br />
=Introduction=<br />
<br />
''Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene'' ([[ABS]]) is a commonly used [[thermoplastic]] as it is lightweight and can both be [[injection mold]]ed and [[extrusion| extruded]]. It has better mechanical properties than [[HDPE]] and less brittle than [[PLA]] but handles higher temperatures better for applications such as extruder's and X-carriages setups without a fan.<br />
<br />
* ABS is good because it is easier to buy and requires less force to extrude than [[PLA]] as it has a lower coefficient of friction. This makes its extrusion characteristics better for small parts, compared to [[PLA]]. The downside of ABS is that it has to be extruded at a higher temperature: Its glass transition temperature is ~105 °C. ABS is amorphous and therefore has no true melting point, however 230°C is the standard for printing.<br />
<br />
===ABS Mechanical Properties===<br />
Detailed coverage of the mechanical properties of 3-D printed ABS here:<br />
* [[Mechanical Properties of Components Fabricated with Open-Source 3-D Printers Under Realistic Environmental Conditions]]<br />
* [[Tensile Strength of Commercial Polymer Materials for Fused Filament Fabrication 3-D Printing]]<br />
<br />
=Fumes=<br />
ABS creates mild, tolerable fumes while being extruded. '''These fumes, while usually tolerable, may be dangerous for people (or pet birds) with chemical sensitivities or breathing difficulties. Make sure that your printer is in a well-ventilated area and make sure to avoid breathing the fumes.''' Rutkowski and Levin describe the possible combustion products of ABS in their literature review (''Fire and Materials.'' Vol. 10, pp. 93-105 (1986) [http://www.fire.nist.gov/bfrlpubs/fire86/PDF/f86017.pdf]).<br />
<br />
= Heater Settings =<br />
200-250 °C, depending on your particular plastic.<br />
<br />
Sample temperatures with a Makergear 0.5 mm hotend:<br />
<br />
Ultimachine Red ABS: 215 °C<br />
<br />
Ultimachine Natural ABS: 230 °C<br />
<br />
= Extrusion width =<br />
There has been some evidence that pigment may affect extrusion width. If you are switching plastics a lot, it is a good idea to measure the extrusion before going through the toolpath process.<br />
<br />
Pigment can also affect the ideal nozzle temperature. <br />
<br />
NB My ABS filament is quite soft, so a hobbed bolt cut with a dremel tool shreds it easily. A bolt cut with 3mm tap seems to work much better (at least with a Wades Extruder) --DGM3333 21 Aug 2012<br />
<br />
= Build Surface and distortions =<br />
ABS is difficult because it tends to [[warp]] catastrophically off the build platform when printing large parts. This can be remedied by using a [[Heated Bed|heated build platform]] (in which case it is just as nice as [[PLA]] and because it requires less force to extrude, is easier to print with!).<br />
<br />
ABS will stick to acrylic at low temperatures and to PET or Kapton tape if the bed is hot. It has also been reported that ABS will stick to glass with a liberal coating of hairspray. <br />
<br />
On a cold bed ABS can be printed on masking tape by putting a thin layer of super-glue (cyanoacrylate) on the tape before printing.<br />
<br />
A thin layer of "abs slur" obtained dissolving abs in acetone and spraying it on the bed before printing prevents part warping too and is fast to apply giving a very uniform surface.<br />
<br />
Do not remove printed parts from bed before they have cooled down.<br />
<br />
= Availability =<br />
Check out [[Printing Material Suppliers]]. <br />
Also, check the forums... someone might be able to ship you some for cheap. <br />
<br />
ABS filament generally costs around US$20/lb. A cheaper ABS should raise suspicion of being a fake ABS - a mix of ABS and HIPS (cheaper) that will not have ABS properties.<br />
<br />
= Further reading =<br />
<br />
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene Wikipedia: acrylonitrile butadiene styrene]<br />
* [http://haveblue.org/?p=596 Have Blue Dot Org: "We hold these truths to be self-evident, that not all ABS is created equal"]<br />
* [http://blog.thingiverse.com/2009/09/04/stuff-dreams-are-made-of-abs/ Thingiverse: Stuff Dreams Are Made Of: ABS]<br />
* [http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet.aspx?MatGUID=3a8afcddac864d4b8f58d40570d2e5aa MatWeb Properties of Extruded ABS]<br />
* [http://www.absplastic.eu 3D Printing and plastic materials blog]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Thermoplastic]]<br />
[[Category:Printing thermoplastic material]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide/ru&diff=182635Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide/ru2018-06-07T17:06:43Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide}}<br />
<br />
!!ПЕРЕВОД НЕ ЗАВЕРШЁН!!<br />
<br />
==Что потребуется==<br />
# Инструменты для точного измерения. Потребуется штангенциркуль и микрометр, но можно обойтись только штангенциркулем.<br />
# Информация о параметрах ваших шаговых двигателей: '''угловой шаг''', обычно он указан в документации на двигатель<br />
# Информация о том, на какой '''микрошаг''' настроены '''драйверы шаговиков'''. Чаще всего драйверы настроены на 1/16, реже на 1/32.<br />
# Количество '''зубцов на вашем шкиве'''. <br />
# Характеристики '''ремней''', используемых в вашем принтере.<br />
# Параметры '''шестерней экструдера''', отношение передачи.<br />
# Устранить все люфты. Калибровка будет бесполезна, если какие-то детали вашего принтера будут люфтить!<br />
# Открыть Онлайн RepRap Калькулятор, чтобы подобрать начальные параметры шагов на мм, высоту слоев и параметры ускорения.<br />
<br />
==Оси XY==<br />
<br />
Если вы используете шкивы и ремни для осей XY, то вы можете быстро и точно рассчитать требуемое количество шагов на миллиметр, используя данные о ваших шаговиках, ремнях и шкивах. Скорее всего, вам даже не придется заниматься дополнительной калибровкой. '''Если же расчеты верны, но ваши модели всё равно получаются явно неверного размера, значит, ваши ремни или шкивы повреждены. Их стоит заменить.'''<br />
<br />
Базовая формула расчета:<br />
<br />
<math>шаги/мм = \frac{кол-во\ шагов\ на\ полный\ оборот * микрошаг\ драйвера}{шаг\ ремня * кол-во\ зубцов\ на\ шкиве}</math><br />
<br />
Наиболее частые варианты:<br />
<pre><br />
// NEMA 17 двигатель с ремнём T2 и шкивом на 20 зубцов:<br />
(200 * 16) / (2 * 20) = 80.0<br />
<br />
// NEMA 17 двигатель с ремнём T5 и шкивом на 8 зубцов:<br />
(200 * 16) / (5 * 8) = 80.0<br />
<br />
// NEMA 17 двигатель с ремнём XL и шкивом на 8 зубцов:<br />
(200 * 16) / (5.08 * 8) = 78.74<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==Ось Z==<br />
Большинство принтеров RepRap используют шпильки различного диаметра в качестве оси Z. Чтобы вычислить требуемое количество шагов на мм, нужно вычислить шаг винта. <br />
<br />
Базовая формула расчета:<br />
<br />
<math>шаги/мм = \frac{кол-во\ шагов\ на\ полный\ оборот * микрошаг\ драйвера}{шаг\ винта}</math> <br />
<br />
Наиболее частые варианты:<br />
<pre><br />
// NEMA 17 с шпилькой M5 с стандартным шагом винта:<br />
(200 * 16) / 0.8 = 4000<br />
<br />
// NEMA 17 с шпилькой M8 с стандартным шагом винта:<br />
(200 * 16) / 1.25 = 2560<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
В некоторых принтерах, ось Z соединена с соответствующим двигателем через ременную передачу. Чаще всего, вам не потребуется это учитывать, и выше приведённая формула будет работать. Однако, если шкивы на двигателе и шпильке отличаются, вам придется учитывать их отношение друг к другу в финальном результате. Так, если шкив на моторе в 2 раза меньше шкива на шпильке, нужно будет увеличить финальный результат формулы в 2 раза.</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide/de&diff=182634Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide/de2018-06-07T17:06:22Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide}}<br />
<br />
=Vorwort=<br />
Danke an die helfenden Hände. <br />
Der Artikel ist soweit fertig übersetzt. Wenn ihr kleine Fehler findet, dürft ihr die gerne korrigieren.<br />
<br />
=Voraussetzungen=<br />
==Werkzeuge==<br />
# Messschieber<br />
# Bügelmessschraube (falls vorhanden)<br />
<br />
==Kenntnisse==<br />
# Anzahl der Vollschritte pro Umdrehung der Schrittmotoren. (1,8° Schrittwinkel = 200 Vollschritte, 0,9° Schrittwinkel = 400 Vollschritte, usw.)<br />
# Kenntnis über die Einstellung der Mikroschritte des Schrittmotortreibers. A4988 meist 16x Mikroschritte, DRV8825 meist 32x Mikroschritte.<br />
# Zähnezahl der Riemenscheiben. Sehr oft 20 Zähne bei GT2 Riemen.<br />
# Teilung des Zahnriemens. GT2 = 2mm, T2,5 = 2,5mm, T5 = 5mm, HTD3m = 3mm<br />
# Anzahl der Zähne des Extrudergetriebes oder Übersetzungsverhältnis<br />
<br />
==Sonstiges==<br />
# Finde (und beseitige) Umkehrspiel an allen Achsen, sonst wirst du keine genauen Teile produzieren können.<br />
# Den [http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/ Online RepRap Calculator (englisch)] aufrufen um die Anzahl der Schritte pro mm, Schichtdicke und Beschleunigung zu ermitteln<br />
<br />
=XY Schritteinstellung=<br />
<br />
[[File:Teacup Configtool Belt Calculator.png | 300px | thumb | Das Configtool der [[Teacup Firmware]] hat einen Steps/mm-Rechner eingebaut, dessen Werte sich auch auf andere Firmwaren übertragen lassen.]]<br />
<br />
Bei der Nutzung von Zahnriemen kann die Anzahl der Schritte pro mm für die X- und Y-Achse sehr einfach berechnet werden. Eine weitere Kalibrierung der Achsen ist idR. nicht notwendig.<br />
Sollte man am Druckergebnis grobe Maßabweichungen feststellen, sollte man die Berechnung überprüfen und ggf. Fehler am Drucker suchen.<br />
<br />
Die grundlegende Formel ist:<br />
<br />
<math>Schritte\ pro\ mm = \frac{Vollschritte\ pro\ Umdrehung * Anzahl\ Mikroschritte}{Zahnriementeilung * Zähnezahl}</math><br />
<br />
Einige typische Beispiele:<br />
<pre><br />
// 1,8° NEMA 17 mit GT2 Riemen und 20Z Riemenscheibe<br />
(200 * 16) / (2 * 20) = 80<br />
<br />
// 1,8° NEMA 17 mit T2,5 Riemen und 20Z Riemenscheibe<br />
(200 * 16) / (2,5 * 20) = 64<br />
<br />
// 1,8° NEMA 17 mit HTD-3M und 20Z Riemenscheibe<br />
(200 * 16) / (3 * 20) = 53.333<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
=Z steps=<br />
Die meisten RepRap Drucker nutzen Gewindestangen um die Z-Achse anzutreiben. Zur Berechnung des Verfahrwegs muss der Drehwinkel und die Gewindesteigung bekannt sein.<br />
<br />
Die grundlegende Formel ist:<br />
<pre>(vollschritte_pro_umdrehung * anzahl_mikroschritte) / gewindesteigung = schritte_pro_mm</pre><br />
<br />
Einige typische Beispiele:<br />
<pre><br />
// 1,8° NEMA 17 mit M5 Regelwinde:<br />
(200 * 16) / 0.8 = 4000<br />
<br />
// 1,8° NEMA 17 mit M8 Regelwinde:<br />
(200 * 16) / 1.25 = 2560<br />
<br />
// 1,8° NEMA 17 mit Tr8x1,5mm:<br />
(200 * 16) / 1,5 = 2133,3333<br />
<br />
// 1,8° NEMA 17 mit Tr10x2mm:<br />
(200 * 16) / 2 = 1600<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
An manchen Druckern werden die Z-Spindeln über einen Zahnriementrieb bewegt. Nutzt man am Motor und an den Spindeln die gleichen Riemenscheiben kann die Rechnung von oben unverändert übernommen werden.<br />
Sind am Motor und den Spindeln verschiedene Riemenscheiben verbaut, muss das Übersetzungsverhältnis mit einbezogen werden.<br />
<br />
=E steps/Extruder Schritte =<br />
Es gibt nahezu unendlich viele Varianten. Neben dem allseits bekannten "Wade"-Extruder der mit einer großen Untersetzen eine verzahnte Schraube (Hobbed Bolt) antreibt, gibt es die direkt angetriebenen Extruder (Direct-drive) bei der die Förderschraube ohne Untersetzung direkt angetrieben wird, wobei der Motor auch ein internes Getriebe besitzen kann. Typisch für die direkt angetriebenen Extruder sind Förderräder vom Typ MK7 bzw. MK8.<br />
<br />
Neben den Extrudern die direkt über dem Hotend sitzen gibt es noch die sogenannten Bowden-Extruder. Der einzige Unterschied ist, dass hier der Extruder separat angebracht wird und das Filament über einen Bowdenschlauch zum Hotend gefördert wird.<br />
<br />
==Berechnung==<br />
Bei einen typischen Wade-Extruder, wird die Förderschraube aus einer M8-Schraube gefertigt. Dort beträgt der "effektive Durchmesser etwa 7mm. Beim Direct-Drive MK7 Förderrad beträgt der effektive Durchmesser ca 10.56mm. <br />
Das sind nur Anhaltspunkte um sich an einen korrekten Wert anzunähern. Später wird man diesen Wert genauer ermitteln.<br />
<br />
Die Standard-Formel ist:<br />
<pre>E_schritte_pro_mm = (motor_schritte_pro_umdrehung * micro_schritte) *<br />
(großes_zahnrad_zähnezahl / kleines_zahnrad_zähnezahl) / <br />
(effektiver_durchmesser_förderschraube * pi)</pre><br />
<br />
Einige typische Beispiele:<br />
<pre><br />
// Klassischer Wade mit einer 39:11 Getriebeuntersetzung<br />
(200 * 16) * (39 / 11) / (7 * 3.14159) = 515.91048<br />
<br />
// Gregstruder mit einer 51:11 Getriebeuntersetzung<br />
(200 * 16) * (51 / 11) / (7 * 3.14159) = 674.65217<br />
<br />
// Gregstruder mit einer 43:10 Getriebeuntersetzung<br />
(200 * 16) * (43 / 10) / (7 * 3.14159) = 625.70681<br />
<br />
// MK7 Direct Drive mit 2engineers 50:1 Planetengetriebe-Untersetzung<br />
(48 * 16) * (50 / 1) / (10.56 * 3.14159) = 1157.49147<br />
<br />
// MK8 Direct Drive ohne Untersetzung<br />
(200 * 16) * (1 / 1) / (7 * 3.14159) = 145.54055<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==Messung==<br />
Benötigte Werkzeuge: Messschieber oder ähnliches welches präzise 100mm messen kann.<br />
<br />
# Entferne das Hotend vom Extruder, sodass du kein Filament verschwendest.<br />
# Führe dein Filament etwas hinein.<br />
# Benutze den Extrudereingang als Referenzpunkt und markiere das Filament von dem Punkt aus 120mm.<br />
# Sage dem Drucker das er 100mm Filament fördern soll.<br />
# Messe jetzt zwischen Extruder und der Markierung. Ist der Abstand mehr als 20mm wird zu wenig gefördert, ist der Abstand weniger wird zu viel gefördert.<br />
# <pre>neue_e_schritte = alte_e_schritte * (100 / (120 - entfernung_zwischen_extruder_und_markierung))</pre><br />
# Gebe den neuen Wert in deine Firmware ein und übertrage diese auf dein Board. Wenn Eeprom aktiviert ist kann man bei Sprinter/Marlin mit M92 E''nnn'' den Wert temporär setzen. Bei Repetier geht das mit M206 T3 P200 X''nnn''.<br />
# Wiederhole das ganze ab Schritt 3 bis du zwischen 96-104mm bist und fahre mit dem Guide fort. Die perfekte Abstimmung erfolgt später.<br />
# Wenn du die Werte ins EEPROM eingetragen hast brauchst du die neuen Werte erst einmal nicht direkt in die Firmware eintragen und neu flashen. Diese Werte warden später noch genau ermittelt. ''Warum?'' Der Druck im Hotend verändert noch die Menge die gefördert wird. Ggf. muss man auch noch den Anpressdruck am Extruder erhöhen und dadurch verändert sich der effektive Durchmesser vom Förderrad.<br />
# Montiere jetzt wieder dein Hotend.<br />
<br />
=Z Höhe=<br />
Bei Z=0 sollte man ein einzelnes Stück Papier so zwischen die Düse des kalten Hotends und dem Druckbett bewegen können, dass man das einen Widerstand spürt, wenn man das Papier bewegt. Es sollte sich aber nicht auffalten wenn man das Papier unter der Düse schiebt. Das ist ein einfacher, schneller und effektiver Test für die Ausrichtung des Druckbettes (man sollte das an 4 Ecken machen). Der kleine Abstand ist eine fast perfekte Kompensation für die thermische Ausdehnung des Hot-Ends welche dafür sorgt, dass das Hot-End im Druck länger ist als im kalten Zustand.<br />
<br />
Anstatt den Endschalter endlos zu verstellen kann man einfach ein Makro schreiben welches die Z-Achse auf den Endschalter fährt (G28 Z0) und dann G92Z-nnn sendet wobei -nnn die negative Position des Endschalters ist. Natürlich muss dazu der Endschalter unter Z=0 liegen (nicht zu viel sonst kann man das Druckbett oder die Düse beschädigen). Ideal ist eine Einstellung, wenn die Düse im kalten Zustand das Druckbett gerade eben berührt und man dann G92 Z-0.1 (oder die gemessende thermische Expansion) sendet. Beachte, dass die meisten Slicer einen Home-Befehl gefolgt von G92 Z0 als Startcode senden - also muss man den Startcode des Slicers prüfen und ggf. anpassen. Mittlerweile gibt es viele justierbare Endschalter die eine große Zeitersparnis darstellen.<br />
<br />
Wenn der Z=0 Punkt korrekt gesetzt ist, wird der erste Layer minimal dicker als die folgenden Layer - aber nicht extrem dicker. Die meisten Slicer sind per Default so eingestellt, dass sie beim ersten Layer etwas mehr Material extrudieren und man kann das einstellen bis man eine perfekte Extrusion für die erste Schicht bekommt (siehe unten).<br />
<br />
Die Haftung auf dem Druckbett ist stark abhängig vom korrekten Z=0 Punkt. Wenn Du nicht genug Haftung hast, drucke langsamer mit einem niedrigeren Z=0 Punkt so dass der erste Layer mehr gequetscht wird. Ensprechend erhöhe den Z=0 Punkt, wenn der erste Layer zu stark gequetscht und die Haftung zu groß ist.<br />
<br />
# Finde den passenden Z=0 Punkt<br />
# Sende G92 Z0.<br />
# Bereite den Drucker für den Druck vor - Heizbett erhitzen, Filament laden etc.<br />
<br />
=Slicer Einstellungen =<br />
==Layer Höhe, Extrusion Breite==<br />
Diese Werte sind recht einfach zu erklären. Wenn dein Drucker eine Spur Plastik erzeugt, dann hat diese eine Höhe und eine Breite. Diese Werte must du wählen.<br />
<br />
Gute Resultate bekommt man, wenn die Layer-Höhe weniger als 80% des Düsendurchmessers und die Extrusionsbreite gleich oder etwas größer als der Düsendurchmesser ist. In den meisten Fällen erzeugt eine Layerhöhe von ca. 50% die besten Ergebnisse.<br />
<br />
Beispiel: Eine Düse mit 0.4mm, deine ''maximale'' Layerhöhe ist demnach 0.4*0.8= '''0.32mm''' (besser 0.4*0.5= '''0.2mm''') und deine Extrusionbreite sollte 0.4mm oder größer sein.<br />
<br />
'''Du kannst auch niedrigere Werte für Höhe und Breite nutzen und wirst gute Ergebnisse bekommen'''. Die Slicing-Software berechnet automatisch die erforderliche Menge anhand der gewählten Werte. '''Ist gib kein echtes unteres Limit bei der Layerhöhe''' - Das Limit ist deine Erfahrung den Kunststofffluss bei niedrigen Höhen konstant zu halten. Ein paar Reprapper haben es geschaft mit Höhen von 5µm (0.005mm!) zu drucken.<br />
<br />
Ich selbst nutze bei einer 0.4mm Düse eine Layerhöhe von 0.2mm. Triffid schreibt sogar, dass er unabhängig vom Düsendurchmesser eine Layerhöhe von 0.2mm und eine Extrusionsbreite von 0.5mm nutzt.<br />
<br />
Slic3r wählt selbst die Extrusionbreite in Abhängigkeit deines Düsendurchmessers. Unter den Advanced Settings kann man eine Extrusionbreite wählen. Je nach Modell kann es hier sinnvoll sein eine andere Breite zu wählen um die Wände schön zu drucken.<br />
<br />
Zusatz: Der gesamte advanced Bereich in Slic3r bezieht sich immer auf die Extrusionsbreite. Wenn ich z.B. beim Topfill anstatt ''0'' (Standard) 125% (entspricht 0.5mm bei einer 0.4mm-Düse) angebe, dann werden auf eine Fläche mit einer Breite von 10mm jetzt genau 20 Reihen erzeugt. Wenn die Standardeinstellung beibehalten würde, wären das 25 Reihen. '''Es wird nicht mehr Plastik auf der gleichen Fläche aufgetragen sondern nur anders verteilt''' (Wenn jemand das besser erklären kann, bitte ergänzen!)<br />
<br />
=Hotend Temperatur =<br />
Jede Sorte Plastik, unterschiedliche Farben, unterschiedliche Hersteller, haben eine eigene ideale Temperatur. Z.B. drucke ich (Triffid) undurchsichtiges PLA bei 165°C mit hervorragenden Ergebnissen, aber das durchsichtig PLA braucht 180°C!<br />
<br />
Jeder Drucker wird eine andere Temperatur brauchen, da die Termistoren immer ein wenig unterschiedlich sind. Selbst beim gleichen Hotend vom gleichen Hersteller können die Temperaturen unterschiedlich angezeigt warden.<br />
<br />
So finde ich die optimale Temperatur für jede Rolle Filament:<br />
<br />
# Wähle ein einfache Modell, welches groß genug ist, sodass du während des Druckens das Infill sehen kannst.<br />
# Gucke dir vorher noch die Förderschraube an. Sie sollte sauber sein und keinen Plastikabrieb vom alten Filament haben.<br />
# Ziehe die Spannrolle vom Extruder fest genug an. "Wenn deine Finger weh tun und du dennoch das Filament nicht durchschieben kannst" FEST! Eine lose Spannrolle gibt ''exakt die gleichen Symptome'' wie eine zu niedrige Temperatur.<br />
# Starte mit dem Drucken...<br />
# Verringere alle 2 bis 3 Layer die Temperatur um 5°<br />
# Wenn das Infill statt Linien eine Reihe an Punkten erzeugt, erhöhe die Temperatur um 10°.<br />
# Beobachte den Druck weiter und erhöhe die Temperatur um weitere 5° wenn du wieder Punkte sehen solltest. Wenn sich die einzelnen Layer lösen solltest du die Temperatur weiter erhöhen.<br />
# Schreibe dir die Temperatur für genau das Filament am besten irgendwo auf. Die nächste Rolle wird wieder eine andere Temperatur brauchen.<br />
<br />
=Heizbetttemperatur=<br />
<br />
Die Haftung auf dem Druckbett ist extrem wichtig für hochwertige Drucke. Mit der richtigen Haftung werden Deine Modelle:<br />
<br />
# auf dem Druckbett kleben<br />
# sich nicht verwinden oder verwölben<br />
# keine "Stundenglass-Verwölbung" bekommen<br />
# sich selbst ablösen, wenn das Heizbett erkaltet ist<br />
<br />
Dieses Verfahren hilft die Punkte 1-3 zu erreichen indem die korrekte Heizbetttemperatur gefunden wird. Punkt 4 wird erreicht indem man mit verschiedenen Beschichtungen wie Weißleim (gut für PLA), [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?262,189335 UHU Kleber] (für Nylon), KFZ-Fensterfarbe, Haarspray, [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,121996 ABS Saft], [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,156005 Zuckerwasser] (ABS), etc.<br />
<br />
# Wähle eine Anfangstemperatur für diesen Test - lieber etwas höher als zu niedrig. Vorschlag: 110°C für ABS, 65°C für PLA.<br />
# Starte einen Druck. Wenn der erste Layer nicht gut haftet, erhöhe die Temperatur um 3-5° und starte einen neuen Druck<br />
# Beim 2. Layer sende M104 S0 - das schaltet die Düsenheizung aus. '''Lassen die Druckbettheizung alleine laufen'''<br />
# Beim 3. Layer pausiere den Druck und bewege die Düse weg vom Druck. '''Lasse die Druckbettheizung weiter laufen.'''<br />
# Bereite dir dein bevorzugtes Getränk vor und trinke es während du darauf wartest, dass die Oberfläche des Heizbettes das thermische Gleichgewicht erreicht. Das dauert maximal 10 Minuten - in der Regel genügt es 5 Minuten zu warten<br />
# Entferne den Druck vom Druckbett. Wenn es weich und flexibel ist, ist die Druckbetttemperatur zu hoch. Reduziere sie um 5° und fange neu an. Das Druckobjekt sollte sich fast genauso verhalten wie im kalten Zustand.<br />
# Wenn die Betttemperatur korrekt ist wird das Druckobjekt währen du dein Getränkt zu dir nimmst aushären und wenn man die Betttemperatur um 5° erhöht wird es weich bleiben.<br />
<br />
Du solltest den ersten Layer generell um ca. 10° heißer drucken als die restlichen Layer um sicherzustellen dass der Kunststoff sehr klebrig ist und eine gute Haftung hat.<br />
<br />
Als Richtlinie sollte die OBERFLÄCHENTEMPERATUR des Druckbetts (NICHT die vom Sensor gemessene Temperatur) ungefähr 105°C für ABS und ungefähr 57°C für PLA betragen.<br />
<br />
Dein Thermistor '''WIRD''' eine höhere Temperatur anzeigen als die Oberfläche - ein Temperaturabfall von einigen Grad passiert entlang des Glasses. '''AUF KEINEN FALL''' sollte man die Thermistortabellen anpassen oder den Thermistor auf die Oberfläche versetzen. Du '''WILLST''' den Thermistor nah am Heizelement so dass er schnell reagieren kann und es einen kurzen Regelkreis gibt. Finde einfach ''die Zahl'' heraus mit der sich die richtige Oberflächentemperatur ergibt und ''bleibe dabei''!<br />
<br />
Wenn sich nach dieser Prozedur das Druckobjekt mitten im Druck vom Druckbett an den Ecken und Enden löst versuche mit Brim (Slic3r/Cura Einstellungen) zu experimentieren und mit verschiedenen Oberflächenmaterialien. Weißleim - sehr dünnflüssig mit Wasser verdünnt - ist wunderbar für PLA und von einigen Sorten Haarspray wurde berichtet das sie sehr gut mit ABS funktionieren.<br />
<br />
=E Steps Fine Tuning/Extruder Feineinstellung =<br />
<br />
Nachdem jetzt alles recht nahe an den idealen Werten ist, kommt die Feineinstellung vom Extruder!<br />
<br />
# Finde ein Testteil mit ebenen Oberflächen, z.B. dieses hier [[File:Calibration_stairs.zip]]<br />
# Slice das Teil mit 95% "Rectlinear Infill". Nutze eine Layerhöhe mit der du gut klar kommst - je niedriger die Layerhöhe, umso genauer das Ergebnis am Ende der Kalibrierung. Ich nutze 0.2mm für einen ersten Test. Wenn man dann noch das Letzte heraus holen möchte kann man den Test noch mit einer Höhe von 0.1mm wiederholen.<br />
# Druck es aus.<br />
# Ignoriere die ersten 5 bis 6 Layer da diese noch sehr stark abhängig sind vom ersten Layer. Wenn es ''offensichtlich'' zu viel oder zu wenig ist, dann verändere die Extruder-Schritte bzw. Z=0 und wiederhole den Druck.<br />
# Beobachte den Infill. Wenn du '''keine kleinen''' Lücken zwischen den Linien erkennen kannst, dann '''reduziere''' die Extruder-Schritte um 0.5%. Wiederhole das alle 2 Layer bis du kleine Lücken erkennen kannst. (Bei aktiviertem EEPROM geht das sehr gut über die E-Steps. Marlin/Sprinter über M92 E''nnn''. Bei E-Steps unter 200 (Direct-Drive) kann man in 1er Schritten reduzieren. Z.B. von e-steps = 145 mit M92 E144, analog bei Repetier mit M206 T3 P200 X''nnn''. Bei Untersetzen Extrudern (Wade etc.) reduziere die Schritte in 5er Schritten)<br />
# Jetzt beobachte den Top-Fill. Wenn du kleine Lücken erkennst, dann '''erhöhr''' die Schrittrate wieder in ähnlichen Schrittgrößen wie in Punkt 5 beschrieben, bis du keine Lücken mehr siehst.<br />
# Wiederhole das ganze ab Schritt 5 bis du kleine Lücken im Infill siehst '''und''' keine im Top-Fill.<br />
# '''Jetzt ist deine Extruder-Schrittrate perfekt eingestellt! Speichere die Werte jetzt in deiner Konfiguration.'''<br />
<br />
=Abschluss=<br />
<br />
'' ''Jetzt'' '' drucke dein bevorzugtes Kalibrierobjekt (z.B. [https://www.youmagine.com/designs/make-2015-3d-printer-shoot-out-test-geometries]) und schaue, wie die Maße sind!<br />
<br />
==Optional: Umschalten auf volumetrische E-Einheiten==<br />
'''''Hinweis:''' Seit 1. Februar 2014 unterstützt Marlin volumetrische E-Einheiten von Haus aus - ohne die folgende Modifikation. Sende einfach M200 D<millimeters> vor dem Druck um den Filamentdurchmesser zu setzen, dann sind die untenstehenden Marlin-Einstellungen nicht nötig. Du musst trotzdem Schritt 3 (Ändern des Filamentdurchmessers im Slicer um die extrudierte Menge an Kubikmillimeter anzupassen) durchführen!''<br />
<br />
Es kommt mir dumm vor, wenn man jedesmal neu Slicen muss nur weil sich der Filamentdurchmesser verändert (z.B. weil man Farben wechselt - oder Drucker). Folge dieser Anleitung wenn Du mm^3 Einheiten für die E-Werte statt mm verwenden möchtest.<br />
<br />
# Schreibe den Filamentdurchmesser den du im Slicer benutzt auf.<br />
# Berechne (Filamentdurchmesser / 2) ^2 * PI. Für einen Filamentdurchmesser von 3,0 mm ist das ziemlich genau 7. Für 1,75 mm Filament ist das fast genau 2,4.<br />
# Ändere den Filamentdurchmesser im Slicer auf 2*sqrt(1 / PI) = 1,128379<br />
# Teile die E-Steps durch die Zahl von Schritt 2<br />
# Multipliziere alle Extruderabhängigen Geschwindigkeiten und Beschleunigungen in der Firmware und die Retract-Länge durch den Wert von Schritt 2.<br />
# Wiederhole die Extruder-Schrittkalibrierung von oben. Der erste Druck sollte schon nahezu perfekt sein.<br />
<br />
Nun kannst Du den selben GCore wieder und wieder verwenden. Ändere einfach die Extruderschritte mit M92 wenn Du das Filament wechselst oder nutze den selben GCode auf einem anderen Drucker (Für neuere Marlin-Versionen statt G92 einfach M200 D<millimeters> senden).<br />
<br />
==Begründung==<br />
Im Moment haben wir 3 Variablen welche die Ausgabe beeinflussen - Extrusionsfaktor, Filament-Durchmesser und E-Schritte beeinflussen alle die Menge Kunststoff die extrudiert wird.<br />
<br />
Der Filamentdurchmesser ändert sich nicht wesentlich - er sollte sich nicht mitten im Druck ändern und variiert nur um einen kleinen Betrag, wenn man von einer Rolle zur nächsten wechselt.<br />
<br />
Es sollte möglich sein zwei dieser Variablen auf feste Werte zu setzen und nur die dritte Variable zu ändern wenn nötig.<br />
<br />
Es ist wichtig die Variable zu wählen die am Einfachsten zu ändern ist - das sind die E-Schritte, die man jederzeit (sogar mitten im Druck) mit M92 E''nnn'' ändern kann.<br />
<br />
Der Slicer berechnet das Volumen des zu extrudierenden Filaments für jedes Liniensegment. Dann nimmt er dieses Volumen und dividiert es durch (filament_diameter / 2) ^ 2 * PI um die Länge des zu extrudierenden Materials zu berechnen.<br />
<br />
Wenn wir also den Filamentdurchmesser ändern so dass (Filamentdurchmesser / 2)^2 * PI = 1.0, dann sind die E-Werte im GCore in Einheiten von mm^3.<br />
<br />
Da die neue Einheit 7x größer (bei 3 mm Filament, für 1,75 mm Filament ist der Faktor 2.4x) als vorher ist, müssen wir die Retractionlänge, die E-Schritte und die Beschleunigung an die neue Einheit anpassen.<br />
<br />
Siehe auch [http://wooden-mendel.blogspot.com/2011/09/volumetric-stage-two.html my blog post] für weitere Informationen.<br />
<br />
== Druckbetteinrichtung ==<br />
<br />
Siehe auch [[Configuring Marlin Bed Dimensions/de| Marlin Drukbetteinstellungen]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Calibration/de]]<br />
[[Category:Community/de| ]]<br />
[[Category:Categories/de| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide&diff=182633Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide2018-06-07T17:05:58Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix languages</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide}}<br />
<br />
==Prerequisites==<br />
# A tool to precisely measure 100mm. A vernier caliper is ideal.<br />
# A tool to precisely measure something 0.5mm wide. A micrometer is ideal, but a vernier caliper will do.<br />
# Know your stepper motors' '''full steps per revolution''' value. steps = 360 / angle, so 1.8&deg; = 200 steps, 0.9&deg; = 400 steps, etc.<br />
# Know your '''stepper drivers' microsteps''' setting. Most Pololus are set to 16x. GEN3 driver 2.3 is fixed to 2 (half step). Some boards have 32x.<br />
# Know the number of '''teeth on your pulleys'''. Standard printed pulleys have 8 teeth. Most machined pulleys have 10 or 12 teeth since 8 tooth is technically too small for T5 belt<br />
# Know your '''belt pitch'''! XL and T5 belts /look/ the same, but the difference is important!<br />
# Know the number of '''teeth on your extruder gears''', or at least the gear ratio.<br />
# Remove all sources of backlash. Your parts won't be usable as calibration pieces if you have lash!<br />
# Open the [http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/ Online RepRap Calculator] to find XY and E steps, layer heights, and acceleration.<br />
<br />
==XY steps==<br />
<br />
[[File:Teacup Configtool Belt Calculator.png | 300px | thumb | [[Teacup Firmware]]'s Configtool comes with a steps/mm calculator. Values from there are usable for other firmwares, too.]]<br />
<br />
Assuming you're using belts and pulleys, the XY steps-per-mm can be accurately calculated using your motor, pulley, and belt characteristics, and once set they shouldn't need to be calibrated further. But there's no harm in making sure! '''If you've calculated this value correctly but your objects come out the wrong size by a noticeable amount, your belts may be damaged or something else is awry!'''<br />
<br />
The basic formula is:<br />
<br />
<math>steps/mm = \frac{motor\ steps\ per\ rev * driver\ microstep}{belt\ pitch * pulley\ number\ of\ teeth}</math><br />
<br />
Some common examples:<br />
<pre><br />
// NEMA 17 motor with T2 belt and 20-tooth pulley:<br />
(200 * 16) / (2 * 20) = 80.0<br />
<br />
// NEMA 17 motor with T5 belt and 8-tooth pulley:<br />
(200 * 16) / (5 * 8) = 80.0<br />
<br />
// NEMA 17 motor with XL belt and 8-tooth pulley:<br />
(200 * 16) / (5.08 * 8) = 78.74<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==Z steps==<br />
Most RepRap printers use a pair of threaded rods for the Z axis. So to calculate how far the Z axis moves for each revolution of the motor, first you need to know how much rotation is being transmitted to the Z rods, and then use the "thread pitch" of the rod (distance-per-revolution) to determine the vertical motion.<br />
<br />
The basic formula to calculate motion on a rotating rod is:<br />
<br />
steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / thread_pitch <br />
<br />
Some common examples:<br />
<pre><br />
// NEMA 17 with standard pitch M5 threaded rod:<br />
(200 * 16) / 0.8 = 4000<br />
<br />
// NEMA 17 with standard pitch M8 threaded rod:<br />
(200 * 16) / 1.25 = 2560<br />
<br />
// NEMA 17 with SAE 5/16" threaded rod. It has 18 threads per inch (25.4mm / 18):<br />
(200 * 16) / (25.4 / 18) = 2267.7165355<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Some printers connect the Z motor to the Z rods with a belt and pulleys. As long as the pulleys have the same diameter the above formula will work. But if the pulleys differ you'll need to include this ratio in the final result. For example, if the motor pulley was half the size of the rod pulley, you would need to multiply the final result by 2.<br />
<br />
==E steps==<br />
There are an increasingly wide variety of motors and extruder setups to choose from. "Wade" extruders use a NEMA motor to drive a large reduction gear that turns a "hobbed bolt." Direct-drive extruders typically use a motor with a planetary gearbox to turn a drive gear, such as the popular MK7. Bowden setups can use either method to push the filament through a tube to the hot end. There are others, such as worm drives, but we won't get into those here.<br />
<br />
===Calculate===<br />
For a typical Wade extruder, the hobbed bolt will be made from an M8 bolt, and its "effective diameter" will be around 7mm. The direct-drive MK7 gear is specified as having an effective diameter of 10.56mm. These are just starting points to get close to the correct value, and then you'll measure and calibrate to get the exact value later.<br />
<br />
The standard formula is:<br />
e_steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) * (big_gear_teeth / small_gear_teeth) / (hob_effective_diameter * pi)<br />
<br />
Some typical examples:<br />
<pre><br />
// Classic Wade with a 39:11 gear ratio<br />
(200 * 16) * (39 / 11) / (7 * 3.14159) = 515.91048<br />
<br />
// Gregstruder with a 51:11 gear ratio<br />
(200 * 16) * (51 / 11) / (7 * 3.14159) = 674.65217<br />
<br />
// Gregstruder with a 43:10 gear ratio<br />
(200 * 16) * (43 / 10) / (7 * 3.14159) = 625.70681<br />
<br />
// MK7 Direct Drive with 2engineers 50:1 planetary gear motor<br />
(48 * 16) * (50 / 1) / (10.56 * 3.14159) = 1157.49147<br />
<br />
// AndrewBCN Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder (thing:961630) on RAMPs<br />
(200 * 16) * (45 / 11) / (7 * 3.14159) = 595.280818 <br />
<br />
// RepRapPro Mendel Mini Extruder on RAMPs<br />
(200 * 16) * (61 / 13) / (7 * 3.14159) = 682.79<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Measure===<br />
Required tools: vernier caliper with depth gauge, or similar tool that can precisely measure 100mm. Your hob effective diameter is unlikely to be exactly 7mm.<br />
<br />
# Remove the hot-end from extruder so you don't waste filament.<br />
# Feed in some filament.<br />
# Using the extruder body as a reference point, mark the filament at 120mm.<br />
# Tell the printer to feed 100mm of filament.<br />
# Measure the distance from the extruder body to the mark you made. It will be over 20mm if it moved too little, under if it moved too far.<br />
# <pre>new_e_steps = old_e_steps * (100 / distance_actually_moved) … or, old_e_steps * (100 / (120 - distance_to_mark))</pre><br />
# Set this value in your firmware. You may need to re-flash your board. Sprinter/Marlin supports M92 E''nnn'' to set this value temporarily.<br />
# Repeat from Step 3 until you get between 96-104mm. Then continue with this guide. You'll dial it in perfectly later on.<br />
# '''Don't flash firmware yet.''' There's a further refinement to this value below. ''Why?'' The back-pressure from the hot-end alters how much plastic each hob revolution pushes, and you'll probably end up tightening your idler more which reduces the hob effective diameter.<br />
# Re-attach hot end.<br />
<br />
==Z height==<br />
At Z=0, you should be able to have a single piece of paper between your nozzle and the bed, and move it with a little "grabbing" but not quite enough to bend the paper when you push it. This is a simple, quick and effective test to use when levelling your bed. This small gap almost perfectly compensates for thermal expansion, which causes your hot-end to actually get longer as it heats up!<br />
<br />
Rather than tuning your endstop endlessly, you could simply make a macro that homes Z using the endstop then sends G92 Z-nnn where -nnn is the negative position of your endstop. Your endstop must of course be below Z=0 for this to work. (Not too much, or you may damage the nozzle and/or print-bed!) Ideally in this setup your endstop would be set so that the (cold) nozzle just touches the bed, and then you'd send G92 Z=-0.1 (or your measured thermal expansion). Note that most slicing software adds a HOME command followed by G92 Z0 to the starting G-Code, so you will also need to tune your slicing settings to make sure your G-Code homes to Z-nnn. There are now many adjustable Z-endstops available for download, and these can be real time-savers.<br />
<br />
When your Z=0 point is set correctly, your bottom layer will be slightly fatter than layers on top, but not extremely so. Most slicing software is set up by default to extrude a little extra material in the first layer, and you can tune this to get the perfect extrusion for your first layer, as well. (See below.)<br />
<br />
Bed adhesion is strongly related to the Z=0 point. If you're not getting enough adhesion, print slower with a lower Z=0 point so the first layer is squished more. If you're getting too much adhesion, raise the Z=0 point a little so the first layer isn't quite so squished.<br />
<br />
# Find the appropriate Z=0 point.<br />
# Send G92 Z0.<br />
# Prepare printer for printing- warm up bed, load filament, etc.<br />
<br />
==Slicer settings==<br />
===Layer height, Extrusion width===<br />
These are simple to visualise. When your extruder draws a line of plastic, that line has a height and width. You get to choose these values.<br />
<br />
Best results are obtained when layer height < 80% of nozzle diameter, and extrusion width >= nozzle diameter.<br />
<br />
Eg; with an 0.35 nozzle, your '''maximum''' layer height is 0.35*0.8= '''0.28mm''' and your extrusion width should be 0.4mm or greater.<br />
with an 0.5mm nozzle, your layer height can be up to 0.4mm, and an 0.25mm nozzle will give you 0.2mm max layer height.<br />
<br />
'''You can use a lower layer height or larger extrusion width if you wish, it will work fine'''. The slicing software automatically calculates the appropriate volume to extrude based on the settings you choose. '''There is no hard lower limit on layer height''' - it is limited by your ability to keep flow consistent at very low flowrates. Some reprappers have printed layers as small as 5 micron - 0.005mm!<br />
<br />
Personally I go for layer height of 0.2mm, and extrusion width of 0.5mm regardless of which nozzle I'm using.<br />
<br />
Slic3r automatically chooses an extrusion width for you based on your nozzle diameter. If you're determined to choose, you can use the ''extrusion width'' advanced setting. It is frequently advantageous to choose as models may have walls of a particular width, and by choosing you can ensure they are entirely filled with perimeter with no gap in the middle and no infill.<br />
<br />
==Nozzle Temperature==<br />
Each type of plastic, and each colourant for each type of plastic alters the ideal printing temperature. E.g., I can print opaque PLA at 165°C with fantastic results, but my translucent PLA prefers 180°C!<br />
<br />
Every machine will have different numbers due to differences in thermistor, and how close to barrel temperature your thermistor is actually sensing.<br />
<br />
Here's how I find my optimum temperature for each roll of filament that I have:<br />
<br />
# Choose a fairly simple model that's large enough that you can clearly see the infill while it's printing<br />
# Make sure your hobbed bolt's teeth are clean of debris such as chunks of plastic<br />
# Make sure your idler is tight! really tight! "it hurts my fingers to pull on it and I still can't move it" tight! A too-loose idler gives ''exactly the same symptoms'' as too low temperature.<br />
# Start printing<br />
# Lower temperature by 5° every 2-3 layers<br />
# When infill starts being a row of dots instead of a line, increase temperature by 10°.<br />
# Keep monitoring print, increase by 5° if your infill goes dotty again If you find that your prints are weak along the layer lines or even delaminate mid-print, you may need to go higher again. With ABS, wrapping your printer in a towel helps a LOT by keeping out draughts and breezes- but beware any PLA parts caught within!<br />
# Store or remember that temperature for that type of filament<br />
<br />
==Bed Temperature==<br />
<br />
Bed adhesion is critically important for quality prints. With the right amount of bed adhesion, your parts will:<br />
# stick to the bed<br />
# not curl or warp<br />
# not exhibit 'hourglass' warping, and<br />
# detach by themselves when the bed is cool.<br />
<br />
This procedure helps attain 1 through 3 by finding the correct bed surface temperature. 4 is obtained by experimenting with various bed coatings such as PVA wood glue (best for PLA), [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?262,189335 UHU Glue] (for nylon), automotive window tint, hairspray, [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,121996 ABS juice], [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,156005 sugar water] (ABS), etc.<br />
<br />
# Pick a starting temperature. a little too high is better than too low for this test. Suggestions: 110°C for ABS, 65°C for PLA.<br />
# Start a print. If your first layer gets poor adhesion, increase by 3-5° and start again.<br />
# At layer 2, send M104 S0 so your nozzle heater turns off. '''LEAVE THE BED HEATER ALONE'''.<br />
# At layer 3, pause the print and move the nozzle away from it. '''LEAVE THE BED HEATER ALONE'''.<br />
# Prepare/consume a <favourite beverage> while you wait for bed surface temperature to reach thermal equilibrium. This should take 10 minutes at most, generally 5 minutes is plenty.<br />
# Remove the print from your bed. If it is soft or stretchy, your bed temperature is too high. Reduce by 5° and start again. It should behave almost the same as when it is cold.<br />
# When your bed temperature is correct, your part will have hardened while you consumed <favourite beverage> and if you set your bed temperature 5° higher it will remain soft.<br />
<br />
You should generally print your first layer with the bed about 10° hotter than the regular layers' temperature, to ensure that the plastic is very sticky and gets a good grip.<br />
<br />
For reference, the SURFACE temperature of your bed (NOT the temperature measured by your sensor) should be around 105°C for ABS, and around 57°C for PLA.<br />
<br />
Your thermistor '''WILL''' sense a higher temperature than the surface – a gradient of several degrees forms across your glass. '''DO NOT''' muck with thermistor tables or move your thermistor to the surface. You '''WANT''' it close to the heater so it can respond quickly and give a short feedback loop. Just find ''whatever number'' gets the surface to the right temperature, and ''stick with it''!<br />
<br />
After performing this procedure, if your prints warp off the bed mid-print at ends or corners, try adding a brim (Slic3r/Cura setting) and experimenting with various bed coatings. PVA wood glue diluted very thinly in water is excellent for PLA, and certain brands of hairspray are reportedly excellent with ABS.<br />
<br />
==E Steps Fine Tuning==<br />
<br />
Now, with everything very close to ideal values, we can finally dial E steps in that final little bit!<br />
<br />
# Find an object with flat tops on a number of levels, such as [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24238 this cube stack test] (scale this object by 250% after loading in Slic3r)<br />
# Slice at 95% rectilinear infill. Use the lowest layer height you're comfortable with - the lower the layer height used for this test, the finer your resulting E steps calibration will be. I use 0.2mm for first run, and if I'm feeling ambitious I'll repeat this process at 0.1mm.<br />
# Print.<br />
# Ignore the first 5-6 layers because they're too sensitive to the exact height of the first layer. If it's ''obviously'' over-filling or under-filling, alter E steps or Z=0 point and restart the print.<br />
# Observe infill. If you '''can't''' see ''tiny'' little gaps between the lines, '''reduce''' E steps by 0.5% every 2 layers until you can see tiny gaps.<br />
# Observe solid top layers. If you '''can''' see tiny gaps, '''increase''' E steps by 0.5% every 2 layers until there's no gaps in the top.<br />
# Send the new E steps to your printer with M92 E''nnn'' ''without even pausing the print'' - you will see the result in a couple of layers when the change is this small.<br />
# Goto 5 until the infill has tiny gaps '''AND''' the solid top layers do not.<br />
# '''Now, your E steps value is extremely fine-tuned! Save this value in your firmware's configuration and flash to make permanent.'''<br />
<br />
==Finish==<br />
<br />
'' '''Now''' '' print your favourite calibration piece (e.g., [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9804 ultimate calibration]) and see how it measures!<br />
<br />
== Final Polish: Bed Center==<br />
<br />
If you find that your prints are not winding up in the center of the bed you may need to configure a "homing offset" to correct the origin point (0,0) which should be in the lower left of your build area.<br />
<br />
If after homing your bed with a G28 command your nozzle winds up on the lower left of the printable build area, you should not need any additional tweaking as long as you're able to utilize your entire build-area, if not that may indicate your X_MAX_POS/Y_MAX_POS are set incorrectly.<br />
<br />
If however your nozzle homes off the bed you'll need to compensate with a negative value for the X_MIN_POS/Y_MIN_POS indicating the distance from "home position" to the bed area.<br />
<br />
Example: My X-Axis has a total travel of > 245mm but my bed is only 200mm wide, my X_MIN_POS is set to -45 so that after 45mm of travel it will end up at 0 on the extreme left side and after 245mm it will be the extreme right.<br />
<br />
Also see: [[Configuring Marlin Bed Dimensions]]<br />
<br />
==Optional: Switch to volumetric E units==<br />
'''''Note:''' as of Feb 1, 2014, Marlin supports volumetric E units natively, without this modification. Just send an M200 D<millimeters> to set filament diameter before your print, and the Marlin settings below are unnecessary. You still need to do step 3 (change the filament diameter in your slicer to scale the output to cubic millimeters).''<br />
<br />
It seems silly to me to have to reskein if you change filament diameter (i.e., when switching colours – or printers!). Follow these instructions if you want to use mm^3 units for E instead of mm.<br />
<br />
# Record the filament diameter setting you've been using in your slicer.<br />
# Calculate (filament_diameter / 2) ^ 2 * PI. For filament_diameter = 3.0mm, this is almost exactly 7. For 1.75mm filament, it's almost exactly 2.4.<br />
# Change your filament diameter in your slicer to 2*sqrt(1 / pi) = 1.128379<br />
# Divide your E_steps by the number from Step 2.<br />
# Multiply all your E-related speeds and accelerations (esp. maximums in firmware config!), and retract distance by the value from Step 2.<br />
# Repeat E steps calibration above. Your first print should be extremely close.<br />
<br />
Now you can reuse the same gcode over and over again, and simply alter E steps with M92 when you change filament, or use the same gcode on another printer.<br />
<br />
===Rationale===<br />
We currently have 3 tunables affecting one measurable - extrusion multiplier, filament diameter and E steps all affect the amount of plastic extruded.<br />
<br />
Filament diameter does not change significantly - it should not change mid-print, and only changes by a small amount when switching from one roll of filament to another.<br />
<br />
It should be possible to set two of these tunables to fixed values, and alter only the 3rd when necessary.<br />
<br />
It is sensible to choose the tunable which is easiest to alter - this is E steps which can be altered at any time (even mid-print) by sending M92 E''nnn''.<br />
<br />
The slicer calculates the volume of filament to extrude for each line segment. Then, it takes this volume and divides it by (filament_diameter / 2) ^ 2 * PI to find the distance of filament to extrude.<br />
<br />
SO if we alter our filament diameter such that (filament_diameter / 2)^2 * PI == 1.0, then the E words in our gcode will be in units of mm^3.<br />
<br />
Since our new unit is 7x bigger (area of a 3mm diameter circle is ~7mm^2, so 1mm(length) becomes 7mm^3(volume), for 1.75mm filament the factor is 2.4x), we have to adjust our retraction distance, and E steps and acceleration to suit the new units.<br />
<br />
See [http://wooden-mendel.blogspot.com/2011/09/volumetric-stage-two.html my blog post] for more info.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Calibration| ]]<br />
[[category:reference]]<br />
[[Category:Tutorials]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=FoldaRap1_Build_Manual&diff=179946FoldaRap1 Build Manual2017-07-25T20:14:23Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Printed parts (total : 21) */ Fix link to GitHub repo (now from OpenEdge)</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|FoldaRap1 Build Manual}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Foldable RepRap]]<br />
[[Category:Build manuals]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap_NB_409x453.jpg|thumb|right|400px|1.0]]<br />
[[File:Folda11vecto.jpg|thumb|right|400px|1.1]]<br />
<br />
'''Actual Version'''<br />
<br />
The build manual for the most recent version of the FoldaRap is [[FoldaRap_Build_Manual|here]]<br />
<br />
'''Tools required'''<br />
* 1,5 mm hexagonal wrench (for the pulleys grub screw)<br />
* 2 mm hexagonal wrench (for M3 counterksunk bolts and pneumatic fittings "MA-12-03-M5")<br />
* 2,5 mm hexagonal wrench (for normal M3 cap-head bolts and the rounded M4 bolts used for the frame)<br />
* little flat screwdriver (1,5mm) (for the board's screw terminals)<br />
* Philips (PH2) or flat screwdriver (3mm) (for the psu's screw terminals)<br />
<br />
You may need also :<br />
* a 5,5mm flat spanner or a small pliers (for m3 nuts)<br />
* something to cut wires, and strip them (knife, automatic striper, etc.)<br />
* a lighter for the heat-shrink sleeves<br />
* soldering iron (to eventually solder the endstops)<br />
* small files (round, flat) to eventually ream the printed parts<br />
* a glue gun (gluing the endstop on the printed part is easier/quicker than using bolts)<br />
* a multimeter (to set the drivers current)<br />
<br />
==BOM==<br />
===Hardware===<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap_hardware-kit.jpg|250px]]<br />
5 20x20mm beam 6mm slot 200mm - [http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-profiles/Profile-20-B-Type-slot-6/Profile-20x20-B-type-slot-6::1.html Motedis] or see [[Aluminium profile]]<br />
6 20x20mm beam 6mm slot 300mm<br />
50 M4 T-nut for 6mm slot - [http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-profiles-accessories/Accessoiries-20-B-Typ-slot-6/T-nut-B-type-slot-6::555.html Motedis]<br />
(=31€)<br />
<br />
50 m4x8 round head bolt - [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/catalog/product/view/id/1496/s/tbhc-m4x8-z-blanc-iso-7380/ Fix'n Vis Round Head Bolt]<br />
2 m3x4 / Hotend-heatsink(2) [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/vis-a-six-pans-creux/tete-cylindrique-hexagonale-creuse/acier-8-8-zingue-blanc/tchc-acier-8-8-zingue-blanc-filetage-total-din-912.html Fix'n Vis Bolts]<br />
15 m3x8 bolt / Z-motors (4), Y-motor (3), X-end-idler (2), psu (2), male plug (2), board-mount (2)<br />
2 m3x10 bolt / hotend (2)<br />
6 m3x12 bolt / X-idler (1), extruder (3), Y-belt-clamp (2)<br />
4 m3x16 bolt / X-motor (3), extruder-fan (1)<br />
7 m3x20 bolt / X-carriage (3), hinges (2), Y-idler (1), extruder (1)<br />
3 m3x30 countersunk bolt / bed (3)<br />
2 m3x35 / extruder (2)<br />
19 m3 nut / hinges (2), X-carriage (3), X-idler (2), extruder-fan (1), bed (3), Y-belt-clamp (2), extruder (2), plug (2), psu (2) - [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/ecrous/ecrous-hexagonaux/ecrou-hexagonal-hu/acier-zingue-blanc/ecrou-hu-acier-zingue-blanc-classe-8-din-934.html Fix'n Vis Nuts]<br />
3 m3 nylock nut / bed leveling (3) [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/ecrous/ecrous-autofreines/ecrou-hexagonal-autofreine-bague-nylon/ecrou-nylstop-acier-zingue-blanc-din-985.html nylock nut]<br />
5 m5 nut / extruder pneumatic fitting (1), Z-rod (4) (for the Z [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/catalog/product/view/id/13095/s/ecrou-hu-m5-pa6-6-blanc-din-555/ nylon nuts] can be slightly better)<br />
11 m3 washer / X-motor (3), X-idler (2), extruder (2), Y-idler (2), Y-belt-clamp (2) - [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/rondelles-circlips/rondelles-plates/decoupees/serie-moyenne-m/acier/rondelle-m-acier-zingue-blanc-nfe-25513.html Fix'n Vis washer]<br />
2 230mm threaded rod m5 - [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/catalog/product/view/id/8626/s/tige-filetee-m5-inox-a2-din-975.html Fix'n Vis]<br />
(=9€)<br />
2 extruder spring - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/web/p/ressorts-de-compression/751483/ RS751483] or see [[Springs]]<br />
3 bed spring - [http://ssl.rs-particuliers.com/web/p/ressorts-de-compression/751455/ RS 751455] or [http://ssl.rs-particuliers.com/web/p/ressorts-de-compression/751607/ RS 751607]<br />
1m spiral wrapping band for tidying the wires - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Cable_De_Retention_Polythene_6mm_Dia-227974.aspx RS227874]<br />
7 faston ferule - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Borne_Femelle_%C3%80_Sertir_6_35mm_18_14awg-6831456.aspx Radiospare] to crimp the cable for the plug and the switch<br />
(=15€)<br />
2 polymer coupling - See this [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?283,151801 thread] ([http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-Black-Vinyl-Caps-4mm-5-32-Vacuum-Rubber-Nylon-End-Plug-Tube-Cover-/300728413084 ebay] / [http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=339 emakershop])<br />
6 linear bearing, LM6UU or if you can Igus RJMP-01-06 - See [[Bearing]]<br />
4 300mm smooth rod 6mm - (can be salvaged from usual scanners and printers) or see [[Smooth rod]]<br />
4 603zz bearings / X-idler (1), Y-idler (2), extruder-idler (1) - See [[Bearing]]<br />
1 600mm T2.5 belt 5-6mm wide - [http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=175&cPath=1595_1611 RepRapWorld] or see [[Belts_and_Pulleys]]<br />
1 700mm T2.5 belt 5-6mm wide<br />
2 T2.5 pulleys - [http://www.paoparts.com/fr/courroies/150-poluie-alu-t5-8-dents.html Paoparts] or see [[Belts_and_Pulleys]]<br />
1 PTFE Tubing for bowden extruder (2mm inner diam. and 3mm outer), 300mm long - See [[Bowden]]<br />
2 Pneumatic fittings for 3mm tubing, with M5 thread - See [[Bowden]] or [http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=237 emakershop] / I'm using the MA12-03-M5 but others can work<br />
1 direct drive gear - Maritime-models (see [[Drive-gear]])<br />
1 bed plate 4mm thick<br />
1 roll of kapton - See [[Kapton Tape#Vendors]]<br />
20-30 zip-ties<br />
<br />
===Electronic===<br />
5 nema14 stepper motors - [http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/sy35st36-1004a-high-torque-hybrid-stepper-motors.html]<br />
3 miniature microswitch endstop 20mm - [http://www.emakershop.com/listing?l=128]<br />
1 standard male plug IEC C13 C14 - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Prise_Cei__A_Visser_6_3mm_Faston_1_5mm-5392045.aspx RS 5392045]<br />
1 standard female cable - [http://www.indipc.fr/connectique,cable-fiche-alimentation-secteur-prise-schuko-nf-10-16a-h05vv-f-3x0-75-1m80-1m80,cordon-alimentation,page,zoom,mod,boutique,gps,57659-524.fr.html EU/C13] - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Cordon_Anglais_Cee_2p_t_25m-6266739.aspx UK RS6266739] / [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/Product.aspx?Product=7316163 US RS7316163]<br />
1 big blue switch - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/Product.aspx?Product=5287858 RS 5287858]<br />
1 RepRappro Hotend - [http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=320 emaker]<br />
1 40x40mm heatsink - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Dissipateur_Ick_Bga_40x40x10-6744769.aspx RS 6744769] to make a more compact hotend<br />
1-2 small fan (40 x 40 x 10 mm), for the hotend (can be bought with one) and the extruder motor - [http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=171 RepRapWorld] or see [[Fan]]<br />
1 100k thermistors - [http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=AL03006-58.2K-97-G1virtualkey52710000virtualkey527-AL3006-100K Mouser]<br />
0.6 m of 18AWG wire (200mm red, 200m black, 150mm green) for the switch/plug/psu - Read also [[WiresAndConnectors]]<br />
10 m of 26AWG (3.6m red, 3.2m green, 2.0m blue) for the sensors and fans<br />
<br />
1 Minitronic board [http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=359&cPath=1591_1647]<br />
1 USB cable A to B [http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=59&cPath=1591_1647]<br />
1 12V power supply : [http://www.ebay.com/itm/121029223528 5A] or [http://www.ebay.com/itm/261295101016 10A] or [http://www.ebay.com/itm/221266614995] (for heated bed)<br />
<br />
or<br />
<br />
1 Melzi board [http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=425], [http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=678]<br />
1 usb to mini-usb cable - [http://www.indipc.fr/informatique,usb-2-0-type-mini-b,connectique,page,boutique,mod,boutique,gps,5104.fr.html]<br />
1 12V power supply : [http://www.ebay.com/itm/121029223528 5A] or [http://www.ebay.com/itm/261295101016 10A] or [http://www.ebay.com/itm/221266614995] (for heated bed)<br />
<br />
or<br />
<br />
1 [[Azteeg_X1]] board - [http://www.panucatt.com/azteeg_X1_reprap_3d_printer_controller_p/ax13dp.htm] + 4 drivers<br />
1 usb to mini-usb cable - [http://www.indipc.fr/informatique,usb-2-0-type-mini-b,connectique,page,boutique,mod,boutique,gps,5104.fr.html]<br />
1 12V power supply : [http://www.ebay.com/itm/300739370622 10A]<br />
<br />
or<br />
<br />
1 Rumba + 6 stepper drivers<br />
1 usb to mini-usb cable - [http://www.indipc.fr/informatique,usb-2-0-type-mini-b,connectique,page,boutique,mod,boutique,gps,5104.fr.html]<br />
1 12V power supply : [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Alimentation_%C3%80_Decoupage_12v_20a_240w-7066316.aspx 20A] (RS 7066316 100*150*35mm)<br />
<br />
===Laser cut parts===<br />
[[File:Foldarap_1.1_lasercut-parts.jpg|250px]] [[File:Foldarap_lasercut-parts.jpg|250px]]<br />
<br />
See the [https://github.com/EmmanuelG/Foldarap/tree/FoldaRap-1.1/FoldaRap%201.1%20melzi/hardware/ponoko github repo] and [http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=204 eMakerShop], you can have them from [http://www.ponoko.com/showroom/Watsdesign Ponoko] too<br />
<br />
1 electronic under-plate 3-4mm thick<br />
1 bed-plate 4-6mm thick (acrylic or aluminium)<br />
1 Y-carriage<br />
1 reprap.org plate 160x20mm, 2-4mm thick (+2 T-nut and M4x8) - optional but make a nice reference to the wiki :)<br />
<br />
<br />
These parts can also be made by hand with simple tools.<br />
<br />
[[File:FoldaRap_bed-plate_1.1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
===Printed parts (total : 21)===<br />
See also the [https://github.com/OpenEdge/FoldaRap1 github repo]<br />
<br />
foot front left<br />
foot front right<br />
foot rear left<br />
foot rear right<br />
hinge-inner left<br />
hinge-inner right<br />
hinge-outer left<br />
hinge-outer right<br />
z-motor-bracket left<br />
z-motor-bracket right<br />
z-top left<br />
z-top right<br />
y-motor<br />
y-idler<br />
y-belt clamp<br />
x-end-motor<br />
x-end-idler<br />
x-carriage<br />
extruder-idler<br />
board mount (x2)<br />
<br />
===Other===<br />
====Heated-Bed====<br />
For the aluminium heated bed add :<br />
<br />
1 aluminium bed plate (4mm thick)<br />
1 100k thermistors - [http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=AL03006-58.2K-97-G1virtualkey52710000virtualkey527-AL3006-100K Mouser]<br />
60cm of 26 AWG wire (blue)<br />
2 ferule 0,5mm²<br />
1 peltier element 12708 (40x40mm is enough) - [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=TEC+12708&_sacat=0&_from=R40 ebay]<br />
<br />
==General tips==<br />
*Read the whole manual once or twice before starting, to get an overview of the build<br />
**Basically we have a main frame and several sub-assemblies, some can be done in parallel : gather your friends and establish a record for minimum building time ! '''(Actual best record : 4 hours)'''<br />
*Work on a cutting mat if you have one, it will protect your table plus they often show a millimetre grid that will be useful to check the bolts length (with some experience you will recognize them just by looking or holding one).<br />
*Place you mouse over a picture in a list if you wonder what part it is<br />
*In case of doubt, don't hesitate to have a look at the 3d model in Sketchup (before/during the build), even if about a next version of the machine it will show you the folded/unfolded state of the machine and you can play around with it :)<br />
<br />
Ok let's start<br />
It should take approximately 12 hours to put everything together.<br />
From step 1 to 4 : 2-4 hours<br />
<br />
Here is a timelapse overview from Gert G. : [https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxMMNUPqzlSrY0thdEdONXh5dXc&usp=sharing google drive link]<br />
<br />
===Know the parts===<br />
Firstly, have a look at all the part and learn what everything is.<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=4 widths=200px heights=150px><br />
File:Foldarap_foot-front-left.jpg|foot-front left<br />
File:Foldarap_foot-front-right.jpg|foot-front right<br />
File:Foldarap_foot-rear-left.jpg|foot-rear left<br />
File:Foldarap_foot-rear-right.jpg|foot-rear right<br />
File:Foldarap_hinge-outer-left.jpg|hinge-outer left<br />
File:Foldarap_hinge-outer-right.jpg|hinge-outer right<br />
File:Foldarap_hinge-inner-left.jpg|hinge-inner left<br />
File:Foldarap_hinge-inner-right.jpg|hinge-Inner right<br />
File:Foldarap_z-motor-bracket-left.jpg|z-motor-bracket left<br />
File:Foldarap_z-motor-bracket-right.jpg|z-motor-bracket right<br />
File:FoldaRap_y-idler_603zz.jpg|y-idler<br />
File:Foldarap_y-motor.jpg|y-motor<br />
File:Foldarap_y-carriage_lasercut.jpg|y-carriage<br />
File:Foldarap_belt-clamp.jpg|belt-clamp<br />
File:Foldarap_X-end_motor.jpg|x-end motor<br />
File:Foldarap_X-end_idler.jpg|x-end idler<br />
File:Foldarap_z-top-left.jpg|z-top left<br />
File:Foldarap_z-top-right.jpg|z-top right<br />
File:Foldarap_X-carriage.jpg|x-carriage<br />
File:Foldarap_extruder-idler_nema14.jpg|extruder-idler<br />
File:Foldarap_board-mount.jpg|board mounts<br />
File:Foldarap_underplate.jpg|underplate<br />
File:Foldarap_reprap-plate.jpg|reprap.org plate<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===How to insert a T-nut===<br />
[[File:T-nut_insertion.jpg]] Tightening torque : 2.5 Nm (+/- 5%)<br />
<br />
<videoflash>9CAiVmfO2mk|320|240</videoflash><br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Base Frame==<br />
===Rear Base===<br />
[[File:Foldarap_foot-rear-left.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_foot-rear-right.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:20x20_200mm.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|200px]] '''x4''' m4x8<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|200px]] '''x4''' t-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:foldarap_frame_rear.jpg|exploded view<br />
File:rear-base-tips.jpg|tips : use the other extrusions to help you while adding the first two nuts<br />
File:Foldarap_frame_rear_assembled.jpg|assembled<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<videoflash>R-FKKoWC1hw|320|240</videoflash><br clear="all"><br />
<br />
===Front Base===<br />
[[File:Foldarap_foot-front-left.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_foot-front-right.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:20x20_200mm.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|200px]] '''x4''' m4x8<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|200px]] '''x4''' t-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:Foldarap_frame_front.jpg|exploded<br />
File:Foldarap_frame_front-tips.jpg|tips: keep it flush by pushing the extrusion in from the flat side of the foot<br />
File:Foldarap_frame_front_assembled.jpg|assembled<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<videoflash>zFjVM068mtI|320|240</videoflash><br clear="all"><br />
<br />
===Base Frame===<br />
[[File:Foldarap_frame_rear_assembled.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_frame_front_assembled.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_hinge-inner-left.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_hinge-inner-right.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
<br />
[[File:20x20_300mm.jpg|200px]] '''x4'''<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|200px]] '''x10''' m4x8<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|200px]] '''x10''' t-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_hinge-inner_01.jpg|slide the hinge-inners on two 300mm extrusions<br />
File:FoldaRap_hinge-inner_02.jpg|it's not yet necessary to lock the hinges<br />
File:FoldaRap_base-frame_01.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_base-frame_02.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_base-frame_03.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_base-frame_04.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Y-idler===<br />
[[File:FoldaRap_y-idler_603zz.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:M3x20.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' m3x20<br />
[[File:623zz.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' (603zz)<br />
[[File:M3_washer.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' m3 washer<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' m4x8<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' t-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_y-idler_01.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_y-idler_02.jpg|tips : it's easier to add everything while holding the y-idler in vertical position<br />
File:FoldaRap_y-idler_03.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_y-idler_04.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_y-idler_05.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_y-idler_06.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_y-idler_07.jpg|then add it on the frame, don't fully tighten the T-nut, you will need to move it slightly later to center it<br />
File:FoldaRap_base-frame_y-idler_01.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Y-motor===<br />
====Plug====<br />
[[File:Foldarap_y-motor.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' y-motor.stl<br />
[[File:C14_CEI_male-plug.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' plug<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' m3 nut<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' m3x8<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_plug.jpg|add the male plug with 2 m3x8 and 2 m3 nut<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_plug_assembled.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
====Motor====<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' m3x8<br />
[[File:nema14.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' nema 14 stepper motor<br />
[[File:Pulley-T2.5_paopart.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' pulley<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_pulley.jpg|add the pulley on the motor shaft, and lock it with the grubscrew on the flat of the shaft<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_05.jpg|add the motor with 2 or 3 m3x8, the wires pointing downward<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_05_bis.jpg|sometimes the pulley shape can vary, don't worry about it, as long as the flange is aligned along the plastic<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
====Plug-Switch Wiring====<br />
[[File:6,35mm-faston-ferule.jpg|200px]] '''x7''' ferules<br />
[[File:6432-heatshrink-sleeve.jpg|200px]] heat-shrink sleeve<br />
[[File:big-blue-power-switch_RS-5287858.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' switch<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|200px]] '''x3''' m4x8<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|200px]] '''x3''' t-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_06.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_green-plug-psu.jpg|cut some wires : 1 green wire 18WG of 10cm, one end with ferule, the other end just stripped (male plug Ground to power supply Ground)<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_crimping.jpg|crimp the ferules on the wires<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_solder.jpg|eventually add a drop of solder to make a perfect connection<br />
File:faston-ferule_insulated.jpg|don't forget to insulate the ferules with the heatshrink sleeve<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_07.jpg|the green wire in place, now to the red/black ones !<br />
File:FoldaRap_1.1_Y-motor_red-black-plug-switch.jpg|1 red wire of 9cm, 1 black of 6-7cm 18AWG, both ends with ferule (male plug Live/Neutral to switch Live/Neutral)<br />
File:FoldaRap_1.1_Y-motor_black_plug-to-switch.jpg|<br />
File:FoldaRap_1.1_Y-motor_red_plug-to-switch.jpg|<br />
File:FoldaRap_1.1_Y-motor_red-black-switch-psu.jpg|1 red and 1 black wire 18AWG of 10cm, one end with ferule, the other end just stripped (blue-switch Live/Neutral to power supply Live/Neutral). You may need longer wires depending of the power supply and it's position on the underplate, it may be good to shorten them later, once the psu is in place.<br />
File:FoldaRap_1.1_Y-motor_red_switch-to-psu.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_1.1_Y-motor_black_switch-to-psu.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_y-motor_with-t-nut.jpg|add the t-nuts<br />
File:Foldarap_switch-in-left-foot.jpg|put the big blue switch in the rear-foot<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_08.jpg|now you can lock the Y-motor while pushing it against the same rear foot (the two small bumps helps to center the Y-motor)<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-motor_09.jpg|pay attention to really lock the t-nut near the plug, as it is easy for now and later you will push against it when you plug the power cable in<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
A part of the wiring depend of the combination of electronic board and power supply, for other version : [[FoldaRap_power-supplies]]<br />
<br />
==Z-axis==<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_00.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_00_2.jpg|Caution : on the aluminium extrusion some corners are better than others, take care to choose one that slide well for the X-motor and X-idler, keep it in mind then when assembling the Z-right and Z-left.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Z-Left / Z-Right===<br />
[[File:Foldarap_hinge-outer-left.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_z-motor-bracket-left.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_hinge-outer-right.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_z-motor-bracket-right.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
<br />
[[File:20x20_300mm.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|200px]] '''x4'''<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|200px]] '''x4'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_01.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_02.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_03.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_04.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_05.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_06.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_07.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_08.jpg|Do the same for the other side<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Hinges ===<br />
<br />
Hinge principle :<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap_hinge-assembly-detail.jpg|400px]]<br />
[[File:Foldarap_hinge-folding-mecanism.gif|400px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:M3x20.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
FoldaRap_Z-axis_09.jpg<br />
FoldaRap_Z-axis_10.jpg<br />
FoldaRap_Z-axis_11.jpg|Do the same for the other side :)<br />
FoldaRap_Z-axis_12.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Z-Motors ===<br />
[[File:Nema14.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|200px]] '''x4'''<br />
*+vinyl coupling '''x2'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:vinyl_coupling.jpg<br />
File:vinyl_coupling_pierced.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_13.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_14.jpg|pushed half-length on the motor shaft<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_15.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_16.jpg|then add the motor with two m3x8 bolts<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-axis_17.jpg|pay attention to the wires orientation<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Z-endstop===<br />
[[File:Micro-switch_with-lever.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' (with 25cm blue wires for z-endstop, fix with an m3x8 or simply use a glue gun)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:Microswitch_twisted-wires.jpg|people usually twist the wires of the endstop and motors, to reduce interferences and make them more tidy<br />
File:Foldarap_z-endstop.jpg|the lever is oriented toward the left (exterior)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Underplate==<br />
===Power Supply===<br />
Different kind of power supply have been used in FoldaRap builds, if you don't recognize yours look at this page : [[FoldaRap power-supplies]]<br />
<br />
Anyway, the principle is always 1) bolt the power supply on the plate, 2) then the plate on the base of the frame<br />
<br />
[[File:120W_ledproject_power_supply.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' power supply<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' m3x8<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' m3 nut<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap_underplate.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' lasercut underplate<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|200px]] '''x6''' m4x8<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|200px]] '''x6''' t-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w_001.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w_01.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w_02.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w_002.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w_03.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w_04.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w_05.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w_06.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w_07.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_underplate_psu-120w_2.jpg<br />
File:<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Z-axis 2===<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|200px]] '''x6'''<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|200px]] '''x6'''<br />
<br />
*Now you can push the hinge against the plate and lock the two Z at right angle with the frame<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_frame_hinge-inner_locked.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_frame_right-angle.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_frame_right-angle_2.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==X-axis==<br />
===X-motor===<br />
The holes for mounting the motor are wide in order to be able to use them for adding tension on the X belt. Thus mount the motor as close as possible to the extrusion side in order to be able to push the motor the other way arround at the tensionning step.<br />
<br />
[[File:FoldaRap_x-motor_un-tensioned.jpg|thumb|right|400px|motor pushed on the right = un-tensioned]]<br />
[[File:FoldaRap_x-motor_tensioned.jpg|thumb|right|400px|motor pushed on the left = add tension to the X-belt]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap_X-end_motor.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:M3x16.jpg|200px]] '''x3'''<br />
[[File:M3_washer.jpg|200px]] '''x3'''<br />
[[File:Nema14.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' (50cm wires)<br />
[[File:Pulley-T2.5_paopart.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
<br />
[[File:Micro-switch_with-lever.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' (with 50cm red 26AWG wires for x-endstop, fix with an m3x8 or glue gun)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_x-motor_01.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-motor_02.jpg|(the motor can be mounted on either side of the part but don't forget to adjust the firmware correspondingly!)<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-motor_03.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-motor.jpg|then glue the endstop <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===X-idler===<br />
[[File:Foldarap_X-end_idler.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' m3x8<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
<br />
[[File:M3x12.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' m3x12<br />
[[File:M3_washer.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:623zz.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_x-end-idler_bearing.jpg|to add the idler bearing easily, start by pushing the bolt, add one washer, the bearing, turn it upside down and add the second washer by using it to push the bearing upward, to finish the bolt is screwed into the plastic and don't need a nut<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-end-idler_smooth-lock.jpg|after having checked that the smooth rods can slide without force in their holes, add an m3 nut in each, it will be trapped and will serve to hold two m3x8 bolt to lock the smooth-rods<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
After wiring, put the two x-ends in place (impregnate the printed parts with oil for better sliding) and add the smooth-rod without forgetting the three linear bearings.<br />
<br />
====Extruder-fan====<br />
(Optional)<br />
<br />
[[File:fan_40mm.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:M3x16.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' m3x16<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:Foldarap_x-idler_fan-nut.jpg|If the bolt don't screw in the plastic, add a nut, but this one can be tricky to put in place.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Extruder-idler===<br />
For previous version using a geared PG35L see [[FoldaRap_PG35L]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap_extruder-idler_nema14.jpg|200px]]<br />
[[File:M5_nut.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Pneumatic-fitting_MA1203M5.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
<br />
[[File:M3x20.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:623zz.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:M3_washer.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
<br />
[[File:nema14.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' Nema14 (50cm)<br />
[[File:M3x12.jpg|200px]] '''x3'''<br />
[[File:Maritime-models_drive-gear.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' (just one)<br />
<br />
[[File:M3x35.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_extruder-spring_RS751483.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:Foldarap_extruder-idler 00.jpg|start by adding the M5 nut<br />
File:Pneumatic-fitting_MA1203M5_cleaning.jpg|if the entrance seems a little rough, you can make a small chamfer<br />
File:Foldarap_extruder-idler_01.jpg|add the pneumatic fitting<br />
File:Foldarap_extruder-idler_02.jpg|then the idler bearing<br />
File:Foldarap_extruder-idler_03.jpg|add the drive-gear on the motor shaft (make a flat if there isn't one)<br />
File:Foldarap_extruder-idler_03_bis.jpg|(or like that, either way are possibles)<br />
File:Foldarap_extruder-idler_04.jpg|<br />
File:Foldarap_extruder-idler_05.jpg|Then add the motor and the extruder-idler on the x-end-idler (which is sandwiched between both parts)<br />
File:Foldarap_extruder-idler_06.jpg|and finish by the springs<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Top-frame===<br />
[[File:Foldarap_z-top-left.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_z-top-right.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:20x20_200mm.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Reprap-org_plate_160mm.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|200px]] '''x8'''<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|200px]] '''x8'''<br />
<br />
<videoflash>xOSs5n_cQY4|320|240</videoflash><br clear="all"><br />
<br />
===X-carriage===<br />
[[File:Foldarap_X-carriage.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:smooth-rod-300mm.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:LM6UU.jpg|200px]] '''x3''' (LM6UU or igus RJMP-01-06)<br />
[[File:T2.5belt.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' (700mm, longest of the two belts)<br />
[[File:Zipties.jpg|200px]] '''x7'''<br />
<br />
<videoflash>mGf8y23Vfdc|320|240</videoflash><br clear="all"><br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_x-axis_01.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-axis_02.jpg|don't forget to add the linear bearing/bushing on the smooth-rods<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-axis_03.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-axis_04.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-axis_05.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-axis_06.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-axis_07.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-axis_08.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_x-axis_09.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<videoflash>0r0LzsToHcs|320|240</videoflash><br clear="all"><br />
<br />
*Now you can add some tension to the x-belt<br />
<br />
<videoflash>sVjxMQwowbg|320|240</videoflash><br clear="all"><br />
<br />
===Z-rods===<br />
[[File:M5_nut.jpg|200px]] '''x4'''<br />
[[File:230-235mm_threaded-rod.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_z-rods_vinyl-coupling.jpg|turn the rods in the x-ends to push them in the vinyl coupling<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<videoflash>iZKFV5miQEk|320|240</videoflash><br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Great ! You are almost done !==<br />
<br />
[[File:FoldaRap_almost-there.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
Have a pause, you need to be relaxed for the next step, or you can also just head to the end :)<br />
<br />
==Hotend==<br />
[[File:Pneumatic-fitting_MA1203M5.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' pneumatic-fitting<br />
[[File:FoldaRap-hotend_Heatsink-block.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' heatsink-block<br />
<br />
[[File:FoldaRap-hotend_nozzle.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' nozzle<br />
<br />
*cartridge heater<br />
<br />
*thermistor 70cm 26awg<br />
*fan prolongated to match 70cm<br />
*see also the [http://www.emakershop.com/wiki/emaker-huxley-wiki/hot-end-assembly emaker huxley hotend]<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_40mm-heatsink_0.jpg|To prepare the heatsink you will need to remove some fins, drill a few holes and file a flat face (can be hand-made with a file, a dremel or machined)<br />
File:FoldaRap_40mm-heatsink_1.jpg|remove the fins by twisting them with a plier (found it easier and less dangerous than using a flush side cutter)<br />
File:FoldaRap_40mm-heatsink_2.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_40mm-heatsink_3.jpg|then use a template to drill the holes (for 3mm bolts)<br />
File:Foldarap_reprappro-hotend_compact-heatsink.jpg|make the bottom of the heatsink flat (until no more black is apparent, like on the picture below) to make a good contact with the aluminium block that will be cooled<br />
File:Foldarap_hotend_thermistor-resistor-in-place.jpg<br />
File:Foldarap_hotend-bowden-tube.jpg|don't forget to put the ptfe tube in the pneumatic fitting, before adding the heatsink (the tube will fit snuggly between the fins)<br />
File:Foldarap_hotend-heatsink-grease.jpg|add heatsink grease<br />
File:Foldarap_hotend-heatsink-grease2.jpg|press firmly<br />
File:Foldarap_hotend-heatsink-bolts.jpg|engage both bolts<br />
File:Foldarap_hotend-heatsink-bolts2.jpg|finish to tighten them (dont require much force as the taped hole is in the aluminium block)<br />
File:Foldarap_hotend-ferules.jpg<br />
File:Foldarap_hotend-ferules2.jpg<br />
File:Foldarap_hotend_heater-block2.jpg|the resistance have been replaced by a cartridge heater, but the logic is the same<br />
File:Foldarap_reprappro-hotend.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
*don't forget to tighten the hotend while being heated to 200°C (later, once you will have wired everying on the electronic board)<br />
<br />
[[File:M3x20.jpg|200px]] '''x3'''<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|200px]] '''x3'''<br />
<br />
*You may need to add a nut to each bolt if spacing is needed between the heatsink and the linear bearings<br />
<br />
<videoflash>yqNI2H22ZcY|320|240</videoflash><br clear="all"><br />
<br />
== Electronic Board ==<br />
''Previous instructions for the [[FoldaRap_Y-motor_AzteegX1_240W|AzteegX1]] / [[FoldaRap_Melzi|Melzi]]''<br />
<br />
[[File:Minitronicsv1.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:Foldarap_board-mount.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' board-mount<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' m3x8<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' m4x8<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' t-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_melzi_01.jpg|each board-mount is mounted to the board with a m3x8 and will use a t-nut to be held on the frame<br />
File:FoldaRap_Minitronic1_03.jpg|you can put the board on the side you want but it is maybe better for the cable to put it near the y-motor (left of the picture)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Wiring ===<br />
Now lets plug everything to the board !<br />
<br />
[[File:MinitronicsV1BasicSetup.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
The ''[[Minitronics_10]]'' page is well documented and the wiring should be quite easy with the molex connectors.<br />
* It seems to use the same voltage reference as for a pololu (so we need to tune them to 0.4V, 0.45V)<br />
<br />
Order/lenght : <br />
<br />
==== Endstops ====<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap1.2_07_minitronics_endstops.jpg|endstops use the S and - pins of the connectors<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-endstop.jpg|Y-endstop (green 25cm)<br />
File:FoldaRap1.2_08_z-endstop-holder.jpg|Z-endstop (blue 25cm)<br />
File:FoldaRap1.2_08_x-endstop-holder.jpg|X-endstop (red 50cm)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== Motors ====<br />
* Y-motor<br />
* Z-motors<br />
* X-motor<br />
* Extruder-motor<br />
<br />
==== Hotend(s) ====<br />
* thermistor (blue 70cm)<br />
* heater (red 70cm)<br />
<br />
==== Fans ====<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap_Minitronics_fan-psu_1.jpg|thumb|right]]<br />
<br />
* hotend fan (red/black 60cm) : on the fan connector of the board or directly on the psu <br />
** (optional) extruder-stepper fan: same<br />
** (optional) printed-part cooling fan: on the "cooling fan" screw terminal (turned on by sending Mcode "M106 Sxxx" (xxx being between 0 and 255), turned off by "M107" but Slic3r automate this)<br />
<br />
==== Bed ====<br />
Finish by this one, as it is moving, the wires need to be above all the other wires.<br />
<br />
* thermistor (blue 35cm)<br />
* peltier<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_Minitronics_wiring_09.jpg|Voilà !<br />
File:FoldaRap_Minitronic1_wired_1.jpg|It may be a little messy at first but once finished everything is tidy and protected in the base of the machine :)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Tidying===<br />
*spiral wrapping band : for the wires that came out of the base (30cm left / 60cm right).<br />
<br />
(image)<br />
<br />
==Y-axis==<br />
===Bed-plate===<br />
If you have an aluminium heated bed look at this page : [[FoldaRap_Heated-Bed]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap1.1_bed-plate.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:M3x30_countersunk-head.jpg|200px]] '''x3'''<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|200px]] '''x3'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap1.1_bed-plate_01.jpg|add the 3 countersunk m3x30 and lock them with m3 nut<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Y-carriage===<br />
Other versions : [[FoldaRap1.0_y-carriage]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap_y-carriage_lasercut.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:LM6UU.jpg|200px]] '''x3'''<br />
[[File:Zipties.jpg]] '''x4'''<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap_belt-clamp.jpg|200px]] '''x1'''<br />
[[File:T2.5belt.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' (600mm)<br />
[[File:M3x12.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|200px]]'''x2'''<br />
[[File:M3_washer.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
<br />
[[File:M3_nut_nylock.jpg|200px]]'''x3'''<br />
[[File:Bed_springs_RS751455.jpg]] '''x3'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap1.1_lasercut-y-carriage_01.jpg|hold the linear bearing in place with zip-ties<br />
File:FoldaRap1.1_y-carriage_02.jpg|put the m3 nuts in the y-belt-clamp<br />
File:FoldaRap1.1_y-carriage_03.jpg|clamp the belt in the middle of it's length, try to clamp it on the middle of the belt-clamp too<br />
File:FoldaRap1.1_y-carriage_04.jpg|add springs on the bed's bolts<br />
File:FoldaRap1.1_y-carriage_05.jpg|place the y-carriage<br />
File:FoldaRap1.1_y-carriage_07.jpg|add the three m3 self locking nut (nylock)<br />
File:FoldaRap1.1_y-carriage_06.jpg|tighten them a little (real leveling will be done just after)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Y-axis===<br />
<br />
[[File:Smooth-rod-300mm.jpg|200px]] '''x2'''<br />
[[File:Micro-switch_with-lever.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' (with 32cm green wires for y-endstop)<br />
[[File:Zipties.jpg]] '''x6'''<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_01.jpg|Slide the smooth rods through one side<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_02.jpg|then through the Y-carriage<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_03.jpg|and finish on the other side<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_04.jpg|The Y-motor was centered by the rear-foot-right, to align the Y-idler too check that the carriage run smoothly. By moving it will tend to center the Y-idler (or look that it seems at an equal distance from each front-foot. Once satisfied you can lock the Y-idler in place.<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_05.jpg|Make a loop at each end of the belt with zip-ties (pay attention to the orientation of the zip-ties)<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_06.jpg|pass it through the y-idler<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_07.jpg|and y-motor<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_08.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_09.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_10.jpg|why the orientation is important<br />
File:foldarap_y-belt-tensioning.jpg|Tighten the belt by closing the loops with zip-ties, then trim everything (video of belt tensioning [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-l_d7NKfRg])<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-endstop.jpg|fix the Y-endstop on the smooth-rod with a zip-tie or glue it on the front-foot side<br />
File:FoldaRap_Y-axis_11.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Tape (5-10 min)==<br />
Once the Y-axis is fitted it's easier to apply kapton (polyimide) or blue tape (outside masking tape, uv resistant and with acrylic adhesive)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_apply-blue-tape_01.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_apply-blue-tape_02.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<videoflash>MdCMMt7siy4|320|240</videoflash><br clear="all"><br />
<br />
==Leveling the bed and zeroing==<br />
The Z-zero is made when leveling the bed.<br />
#Start by roughly leveling it<br />
#then move the nozzle to the lowest point<br />
#and adjust the 3 screws to level it regarding that height (by turning them until the homing move stop lowering the bed)<br />
#repeat on each corners so the zero is exactly when the nozzle stop touching the bed (true for the four corners+center)<br />
<br />
<br />
*I like to start with the X direction at the right bolt, then with the two at the left<br />
<br />
<videoflash>35Xv_R8U_hU|320|240</videoflash><br />
Here is a video to show what I mean by "the homing move stop lowering the bed"<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
<videoflash>rjIMmzltyLQ|320|240</videoflash><br />
"Bad" (the bolts need to be tightened)<br clear="all"><br />
<br />
*Once the plan is set from left to right you can check front/end<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-leveling_03.jpg<br />
File:FoldaRap_Z-leveling_04.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
*after that it's supposed to be leveled but may need few more tweaking for the right corners<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths=400px heights=300px><br />
[[File:FoldaRap_Z-leveling_05.jpg<br />
[[File:FoldaRap_Z-leveling_06.jpg<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==Software side==<br />
*Skeinforge : you will only have to add a little offset (''altitude''), to have the desired height for the first layer, usually the same as your layer height.<br />
*Slic3r : leave ''z-offset'' at 0, it will add one layer height automatically (you still may have to adjust it slightly to fine tune the Z-zero, depending on where your endstop have been glued).<br />
<br />
Another advantage of that : by moving to the center of the bed from the zero height, the nozzle is also wiped by the side of the bed from any purged plastic ;-)<br />
<br />
==Go go go first print !!!==<br />
[[File:FoldaRap007_first-print.jpg|thumb|right|400px]]<br />
<br />
This article will probably help you along your first print :)<br />
<br />
http://www.sarfata.org/3d-printing/2013/04/First-Steps-In-3D-Printing-With-Foldarap/<br />
<br />
Also have a look at the [[FoldaRap_User_Manual|User Manual]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=FoldaRap_Buyers_Guide&diff=179880FoldaRap Buyers Guide2017-07-19T03:46:04Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Hardware */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Foldable RepRap]]<br />
<br />
{{Languages|FoldaRap Buyers Guide}}<br />
{{RepRapNavigation|name=FoldaRap}}<br />
<br />
This project was for myself, as I need/want a RepRap that's easy to carry around and for the challenge of making a folding 3d-printer.<br />
But I believe in open-source and sharing and all the revolution behind that. Thus I try to well document it, in case others want to make one; to acknowledge all the things we own to those who went before, and to encourage those who come after to do the same.<br />
<br />
On a more long-term view, I didn't planned to create a company out of it, I hoped to see it grow on itself in the wild, just by indicating how to source it, because I have more fun in designing stuff than marketing it. Nonetheless I may try to sell few beta-test kits (bulk ordering is good for prices), eventually via a crowdfunding campaign or by request, maybe with the help of my hackerspace. Just for the experience of it and to say I can push a project to that point :D<br />
(edit : [http://ulule.com/foldarap/ Done !], [http://goteo.org/project/foldarap-peer-to-peer-edition again], and it finally gave birth to ''[http://openedge.cc/ Open Edge]'')<br />
<br />
(almost all the projects I did during my design studies could have done something, but I never found the time for that and they ended sleeping in their drawing books which is sad; while now I have taken the habit to publish everything, even an old one sometimes).<br />
<br />
"Ideas are like living things and breed happily in an open-source context" as I like to think ^^ (on the same spirit I like [http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2012/09/20/fixing-misinformation-with-information/#comment-38041 this comment] from [[User:Adrianbowyer]])<br />
<br />
==Hardware or complete kit==<br />
*[http://openedge.cc OpenEdge]<br />
<br />
==Bill Of Material (BOM)==<br />
2015-07-20 : the BOM should be updated to reflect the latest changes, but there is only minor differences in hardware/vitamins between the 2.1 and the 2.5 version :)<br />
<br />
Total end cost for 1 machine : ~500-600€ when you include all taxes and shipping costs. I suggest you to make group orders with friends and always try to source locally, or now for almost the same price I can make a kit for you.<br />
<br />
===Hardware===<br />
[[File:Foldarap_hardware-kit.jpg|250px]]<br />
6 20x20mm beam 6mm slot 200mm - [http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-profiles/Profile-20-B-Type-slot-6/Profile-20x20-B-type-slot-6::1.html Motedis] or see [[Aluminium profile]]<br />
6 20x20mm beam 6mm slot 300mm<br />
54 M4 T-nut for 6mm slot - [http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-profiles-accessories/Accessoiries-20-B-Typ-slot-6/T-nut-B-type-slot-6::555.html Motedis]<br />
<br />
54 m4x8 round head bolt - [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/catalog/product/view/id/1496/s/tbhc-m4x8-z-blanc-iso-7380/ Fix'n Vis Round Head Bolt]<br />
4 m5 nylon nut / Z-rod (4) [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/catalog/product/view/id/13095/s/ecrou-hu-m5-pa6-6-blanc-din-555/]<br />
3 m3 nylock nut / bed leveling (3) [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/ecrous/ecrous-autofreines/ecrou-hexagonal-autofreine-bague-nylon/ecrou-nylstop-acier-zingue-blanc-din-985.html nylock nut]<br />
15 m3 nut / hinges (2), bed (3), Y-belt-clamp (2), extruder (2), plug (2), psu (4) - [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/ecrous/ecrous-hexagonaux/ecrou-hexagonal-hu/acier-zingue-blanc/ecrou-hu-acier-zingue-blanc-classe-8-din-934.html Fix'n Vis Nuts]<br />
8 m3x6 grubscrew / x-slider (4), pulley (4)<br />
14 m3x8 bolt / Z-motors (4), Y-motor (2), psu (2), male plug (2), board-mount (2), hotend (2) - [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/vis-a-six-pans-creux/tete-cylindrique-hexagonale-creuse/acier-8-8-zingue-blanc/tchc-acier-8-8-zingue-blanc-filetage-total-din-912.html Fix'n Vis Bolts]<br />
8 m3x10 bolt / hotend (4), y-belt-clamp (2), extruder (2)<br />
1 m3x16 bolt / extruder (1)<br />
4 m3x20 bolt / hinges (2), Y-idler (1), extruder (1)<br />
5 m3x25 bolt / hotend-holder (2), fan-holder (1), (extruder 1), z-endstop (1)<br />
8 m3x30 countersunk bolt / x-slider (4), bed (3), z-endstop (1)<br />
2 m3x35 / extruder (2)<br />
2 230mm threaded rod m5 - [http://www.visseriefixations.fr/catalog/product/view/id/8626/s/tige-filetee-m5-inox-a2-din-975.html Fix'n Vis]<br />
<br />
5 springs / extruder (2), bed (3) - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/web/p/ressorts-de-compression/751483/ RS751483] or see [[Springs]]<br />
1m spiral wrapping band for tidying the wires - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Cable_De_Retention_Polythene_6mm_Dia-227974.aspx RS227874]<br />
7 6,35mm ferule - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Borne_Femelle_%C3%80_Sertir_6_35mm_18_14awg-6831456.aspx Radiospare] to crimp the cable for the plug and the switch<br />
<br />
2 5mm to 5mm flexible coupling<br />
3 linear bearing, LM6UU or if you can Igus RJMP-01-06 - See [[Bearing]]<br />
2 300mm smooth rod 6mm - (can be salvaged from usual scanners and printers) or see [[Smooth rod]]<br />
5 603zz bearings / X-slider (2), Y-idler (2), extruder-idler (1) - See [[Bearing]]<br />
1 250mm T2.5 belt 5mm wide - [http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=175&cPath=1595_1611 RepRapWorld] or see [[Belts_and_Pulleys]]<br />
1 600mm T2.5 belt 5-6mm wide<br />
2 T2.5 pulleys - [[Belts_and_Pulleys]]<br />
330mm PTFE Tubing for bowden extruder (2mm inner diam. and 3mm outer) - See [[Bowden]]<br />
2 Pneumatic fittings for 3mm tubing, with M5 thread - See [[Bowden]] or [http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=237 emakershop] / I'm using the MA12-03-M5 but others can work<br />
1 direct drive gear - Maritime-models (see [[Drive-gear]])<br />
1 aluminium bed plate (4mm thick)<br />
1 roll of kapton - See [[Kapton Tape#Vendors]]<br />
20 zip-ties<br />
<br />
===Electronic===<br />
5 nema14 stepper motors - [http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/sy35st36-1004a-high-torque-hybrid-stepper-motors.html]<br />
3 miniature microswitch endstop 20mm - [http://www.emakershop.com/listing?l=128]<br />
1 standard male plug IEC C13 C14 - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Prise_Cei__A_Visser_6_3mm_Faston_1_5mm-5392045.aspx RS 5392045]<br />
1 standard female cable - [http://www.indipc.fr/connectique,cable-fiche-alimentation-secteur-prise-schuko-nf-10-16a-h05vv-f-3x0-75-1m80-1m80,cordon-alimentation,page,zoom,mod,boutique,gps,57659-524.fr.html EU/C13] - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Cordon_Anglais_Cee_2p_t_25m-6266739.aspx UK RS6266739] / [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/Product.aspx?Product=7316163 US RS7316163]<br />
1 big blue switch - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/Product.aspx?Product=5287858 RS 5287858]<br />
1 RepRappro Hotend - [http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=320 emaker]<br />
1 40x40mm heatsink - [http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Dissipateur_Ick_Bga_40x40x10-6744769.aspx RS 6744769] to make a more compact hotend<br />
1-2 small fan (40 x 40 x 10 mm), for the hotend (can be bought with one) and the extruder motor - [http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=171 RepRapWorld] or see [[Fan]]<br />
1 100k thermistors - [http://fr.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=AL03006-58.2K-97-G1virtualkey52710000virtualkey527-AL3006-100K Mouser]<br />
1m of 18AWG wire (200mm red, 200m black, 150mm green) for the switch/plug/psu - Read also [[WiresAndConnectors]]<br />
10m of 26AWG (3.6m red, 3.2m green, 2.0m blue) for the sensors and fans<br />
1 kapton film heater - [http://openedge.cc/product/kapton-film-heater/ Open Edge]<br />
<br />
1 Minitronic board [http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=359&cPath=1591_1647]<br />
1 USB cable A to B [http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=59&cPath=1591_1647]<br />
1 12V power supply : [http://www.ebay.com/itm/121029223528 5A] (cold bed) or [http://www.ebay.com/itm/261295101016 10A] or [http://www.ebay.com/itm/221266614995] (for heated bed)<br />
<br />
or<br />
<br />
1 [[Azteeg_X1]] board - [http://www.panucatt.com/azteeg_X1_reprap_3d_printer_controller_p/ax13dp.htm] + 4 drivers<br />
1 usb to mini-usb cable - [http://www.indipc.fr/informatique,usb-2-0-type-mini-b,connectique,page,boutique,mod,boutique,gps,5104.fr.html]<br />
1 12V power supply : [http://www.ebay.com/itm/300739370622 10A]<br />
<br />
===Laser cut parts===<br />
See the [https://github.com/EmmanuelG/Foldarap/tree/master/hardware/2D%20drawings github repo], you can have them from [http://www.ponoko.com/showroom/Watsdesign Ponoko] or [http://openedge.cc/product-category/spares-parts/hardware/lasercut/ OpenEdge] too.<br />
<br />
The bed can also be made of acrylic in case of a non-heated bed.<br />
<br />
[[File:FoldaRap_bed-plate_1.1.jpg|400px]]<br />
<br />
===Printed parts (total : xx)===<br />
See also the [https://github.com/EmmanuelG/Foldarap/tree/master/hardware/stl github repo]<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=4 widths=200px heights=150px><br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
===Other===<br />
*0.3mm drill bit [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=m570.l3201&_nkw=0.3mm+drill+bit+tamiya&_sacat=0] (or 0.5mm, depending of the nozzle) for the maintenance.<br />
<br />
==How to replicate a FoldaRap !==<br />
If you can print your own parts it will take ~400gr and 22h at ~30% infill.<br />
<br />
===Material===<br />
The parts that act as sliders on the aluminium extrusions (x-slider, z-sliders) will work better if printed in PLA or other low friction plastic.<br />
You can print the other parts in ABS or what you want.<br />
<br />
===Recommended settings===<br />
*Nozzle diameter of reference : 0,5 mm<br />
*Layer height : 0,24mm<br />
*Infill : 30% ''hexagonal''<br />
*It is advised to have a well calibrated machine (+/- 0.05mm on measured parts) : http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?282,159683<br />
<br />
[[File:30percenthexainfill.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:foldarap_precision-needed.jpg|500px]][[File:Reprapworld-black-print2.jpg|500px]][[File:Reprapworld-black-print.jpg|500px]]<br />
<br />
I recorded this little video where I'm playing with some parts freshly printed, to show what to expect about the tight tolerances.<br />
<br />
<videoflash>rRXyc5I8yfo</videoflash><br />
<br />
The part that slide under it's own weight (16gr) have been slided back and forth a few time.</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clone_Wars_Netiquette/es&diff=179185Clone Wars Netiquette/es2017-04-19T23:57:46Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Etiquetas */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Clone_Wars_Netiquette}}<br />
== ¿Qué es la Netiquette? ==<br />
Es un conjunto de normas de comportamiento dentro de internet. En concreto esta netiquette es para la [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] del [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]. La [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] es un medio a través del cual compartir tus experiencias, informar de eventos, preguntar tus dudas, siempre en lo relacionado con impresión 3D libre.<br />
<br />
{{Notice|'''Nota'''. Esta lista de correo no es ''el canal de soporte gratuito'' de ninguna empresa, por lo que si te has comprado una impresora y no te funciona, deberías preguntarle antes a la empresa que te la vendió.}}<br />
<br />
== Cosas que tengo que saber ==<br />
<br />
=== ¿Por dónde empiezo? ===<br />
Es muy recomendable que tu primer correo a la lista sea un correo en el que te presentes, de forma que cualquiera pueda saber quien eres leyendo tu primer correo en el archivo de la lista. Hay alguna información que es interesante que ese correo contenga:<br />
<br />
* '''Tu nombre'''; o si lo prefieres, tu apodo.<br />
* Es recomendable que digas '''de que zona eres''', para que si hay algún grupo cercano te pueda informar.<br />
* Si tienes intención de ponerte a construir una impresora RepRap, dí '''que modelo vas a construir''' y, si ya has decidido que nombre ponerle, también puedes decirlo.<br />
<br />
No hace falta que preguntes por donde empezar, la información que necesitas está en el [[Proyecto Clone Wars]], así que '''primero lee y luego pregunta'''.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Hay que ser formal al escribir? ===<br />
No hace falta, estamos entre amigos, no es una carta al Presidente. Se cortés, escribe bien. Saludar y despedirte en los correos puede ser conveniente al comenzar y dar por finalizada una conversación o hilo, en medio quizá sea innecesario. Escribe en minúsculas y trata de evitar faltas de ortografía o escribir con demasiadas abreviaturas.<br />
<br />
Si estás explicando un problema con tu impresora o alguna duda, intenta dar los detalles necesarios para poner a los demás en situación, nadie es adivino!<br />
<br />
Piensa bien lo que quieres decir, redacta con tranquilidad y de forma estructurada. Una duda mal planteada puede quedar sin resolver.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Qué pongo en el asunto? ===<br />
Debe ser conciso, trata de evitar asuntos como «tengo una duda» o «quien puede ayudarme». En lugar de eso puedes poner un titular para tu consulta. Por ejemplo, "[DUDA] Los motores se mueven al revés".<br />
<br />
Evita escribir temas que contengan toda la información en el asunto. El desarrollo y los detalles irán después en el mensaje. Debe ser breve, aunque tampoco pongas "[DUDA]" a secas. Un término medio.<br />
<br />
Es bueno usar [[#Etiquetas|etiquetas]].<br />
<br />
Y donde dice ''«Es bueno usar etiquetas»'' léase ''«No es que sea obligatorio..., pero '''HAY que usar etiquetas'''»''.<br />
<br />
... Y no pasa nada si se te olvida ponerla, pero el primer mensaje que obtendrás entonces como respuesta será de nuestro querido ''«Prusador del Frac»'' que amablemente te recordará que '''HAY que usar etiquetas''' para la próxima vez.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Qué es una etiqueta? ===<br />
Las [[#Etiquetas|etiquetas]] se usan para clasificar los temas. Se tienen que escribir en el asunto al crear un tema nuevo y deben ir siempre entre corchetes (''['' y '']'').<br />
<br />
Cuando necesites buscar sobre algún tema en concreto, escribiendo la etiqueta (con los corchetes) en el buscador te saldrán todos los que están etiquetados y por tanto, relacionados. Por ejemplo, si quieres buscar hojas de ruta de otra gente para ver cómo se hacen y publicar la tuya, poniendo ''«[HOJA DE RUTA]»'' en el buscador tendrías todas las que se han publicado últimamente.<br />
<br />
Tienes una [[#Etiquetas|lista de las etiquetas más frecuentes]] al final de esta página.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo editar los temas una vez publicados? ===<br />
No, una vez publicados ya sólo se pueden añadir respuestas. Si quieres rectificar algo siempre puedes responder en tu publicación con la corrección que creas necesaria.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo responder en cualquier tema abierto? ===<br />
Por supuesto. Cualquier tema que creas interesante o en el que te interese participar está abierto para ti. Trata de evitar respuestas que no aporten nada a hilos, como «jaja» u «ok».<br />
Sin embargo, cuando se comienza a hablar de un tema, si a lo largo del hilo por algún motivo se comienza a hablar de otra cosa, abre un tema aparte. Si los temas de conversación se entremezclan la lista resulta muy difícil de leer.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo adjuntar archivos? ===<br />
No es recomendable. Lo correcto es poner un enlace a lo que quieras aportar. Al postear se envían correos a muchas personas, y por cada una, una copia de los ficheros que has adjuntado. Piensa en primer lugar si lo que vas a adjuntar aporta algo y, si es así, súbelo a algún servicio de intercambio de ficheros genérico, como [http://dropbox.com/ Dropbox], o especializado, como [http://imageshack.us/ ImageShack] o [http://thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse], y enlázalo desde tu correo.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Hay algún buscador? ===<br />
Sí. En la barra superior está el buscador de temas. Antes de escribir con alguna duda es altamente recomendable buscar por si alguien ya lo ha preguntado. Además existe bastante documentación en castellano, y muchísima en inglés. Infórmate bien antes de preguntar y, en caso de que en castellano no encuentres la información que necesitas y tengas problemas con el inglés, existe una gran comunidad dispuesta a ayudarte. Si tu duda queda resuelta y no estaba bien documentada la solución, documéntala.<br />
<br />
=== ¿La lista de correo es pública? ===<br />
Los mensajes que envías a la lista son públicos y permanentes. No podrás ''«deshacer»'', así que piénsate dos veces lo que envías. Sobra decir que no reveles contraseñas, números de tarjeta, y cualquier otro dato que consideres sensible o personal.<br />
<br />
Si vas a contestar en privado a uno de los participantes en la lista, asegúrate de que el destinatario del correo es él y no la lista.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Y si alguien no cumple las normas? ===<br />
Invita a los usuarios a seguir la netiquette enlazándoles a esta página o recordándoles las buenas formas que no ponen en práctica.<br />
<br />
== Etiquetas ==<br />
<br />
;[PRESENTACION]: Para darse a conocer los nuevos participantes en la lista.<br />
<br />
;[HOJA DE RUTA]: En el caso que estés construyendo una impresora y quieras mostrar su evolución.<br />
<br />
;[PROBLEMA]: Para describir un problema concreto, que te trae de cabeza y para el que no has encontrado solución en el [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Clone_Wars_FAQ/es FAQ], ni en otros hilos en la lista.<br />
<br />
;[DUDA]: En el caso de que tengas una duda que no puedas clasificar en otra categoría, utiliza esta etiqueta.<br />
<br />
;[ELECTRONICA]: En el caso de que abras un hilo en el que se hablará de un tema relacionado con RAMPS, arduino, pololus, cableado, calentadores...<br />
<br />
;[SOFTWARE]: En el caso de que vayas a hablar sobre aplicaciones de impresión, laminado o firmware.<br />
<br />
;[DESARROLLO]: Si vas a hablar sobre una mejora para las impresoras, puedes utilizar esta etiqueta.<br />
<br />
;[PROYECTO]: Si quieres contarle a la comunidad algún proyecto que estés llevando a cabo relacionado con la impresión 3D.<br />
<br />
;[EVENTO]: En el caso de que estés convocando o anunciando una quedada, charlas...<br />
<br />
;[DONACION], [TRUEQUE] o [VENTA]: En el caso de que estés anunciando una donación, trueque o venta de piezas impresas o vitaminas para algún modelo de impresora.<br />
<br />
;[WIKI]: En el caso de que se vaya a tratar un asunto relacionado con la documentación de la wiki.<br />
<br />
;[OFFTOPIC]: En el caso de que tu correo no esté estrechamente relacionado con el tema de la impresión 3D, o sea un correo lúdico.<br />
<br />
;[...]: Esta lista no está ni mucho menos completa, siéntete libre de editarla y añadir las etiquetas que creas necesarias.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clone_Wars_Netiquette/es&diff=179184Clone Wars Netiquette/es2017-04-19T23:56:27Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* ¿La lista de correo es pública? */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Clone_Wars_Netiquette}}<br />
== ¿Qué es la Netiquette? ==<br />
Es un conjunto de normas de comportamiento dentro de internet. En concreto esta netiquette es para la [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] del [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]. La [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] es un medio a través del cual compartir tus experiencias, informar de eventos, preguntar tus dudas, siempre en lo relacionado con impresión 3D libre.<br />
<br />
{{Notice|'''Nota'''. Esta lista de correo no es ''el canal de soporte gratuito'' de ninguna empresa, por lo que si te has comprado una impresora y no te funciona, deberías preguntarle antes a la empresa que te la vendió.}}<br />
<br />
== Cosas que tengo que saber ==<br />
<br />
=== ¿Por dónde empiezo? ===<br />
Es muy recomendable que tu primer correo a la lista sea un correo en el que te presentes, de forma que cualquiera pueda saber quien eres leyendo tu primer correo en el archivo de la lista. Hay alguna información que es interesante que ese correo contenga:<br />
<br />
* '''Tu nombre'''; o si lo prefieres, tu apodo.<br />
* Es recomendable que digas '''de que zona eres''', para que si hay algún grupo cercano te pueda informar.<br />
* Si tienes intención de ponerte a construir una impresora RepRap, dí '''que modelo vas a construir''' y, si ya has decidido que nombre ponerle, también puedes decirlo.<br />
<br />
No hace falta que preguntes por donde empezar, la información que necesitas está en el [[Proyecto Clone Wars]], así que '''primero lee y luego pregunta'''.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Hay que ser formal al escribir? ===<br />
No hace falta, estamos entre amigos, no es una carta al Presidente. Se cortés, escribe bien. Saludar y despedirte en los correos puede ser conveniente al comenzar y dar por finalizada una conversación o hilo, en medio quizá sea innecesario. Escribe en minúsculas y trata de evitar faltas de ortografía o escribir con demasiadas abreviaturas.<br />
<br />
Si estás explicando un problema con tu impresora o alguna duda, intenta dar los detalles necesarios para poner a los demás en situación, nadie es adivino!<br />
<br />
Piensa bien lo que quieres decir, redacta con tranquilidad y de forma estructurada. Una duda mal planteada puede quedar sin resolver.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Qué pongo en el asunto? ===<br />
Debe ser conciso, trata de evitar asuntos como «tengo una duda» o «quien puede ayudarme». En lugar de eso puedes poner un titular para tu consulta. Por ejemplo, "[DUDA] Los motores se mueven al revés".<br />
<br />
Evita escribir temas que contengan toda la información en el asunto. El desarrollo y los detalles irán después en el mensaje. Debe ser breve, aunque tampoco pongas "[DUDA]" a secas. Un término medio.<br />
<br />
Es bueno usar [[#Etiquetas|etiquetas]].<br />
<br />
Y donde dice ''«Es bueno usar etiquetas»'' léase ''«No es que sea obligatorio..., pero '''HAY que usar etiquetas'''»''.<br />
<br />
... Y no pasa nada si se te olvida ponerla, pero el primer mensaje que obtendrás entonces como respuesta será de nuestro querido ''«Prusador del Frac»'' que amablemente te recordará que '''HAY que usar etiquetas''' para la próxima vez.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Qué es una etiqueta? ===<br />
Las [[#Etiquetas|etiquetas]] se usan para clasificar los temas. Se tienen que escribir en el asunto al crear un tema nuevo y deben ir siempre entre corchetes (''['' y '']'').<br />
<br />
Cuando necesites buscar sobre algún tema en concreto, escribiendo la etiqueta (con los corchetes) en el buscador te saldrán todos los que están etiquetados y por tanto, relacionados. Por ejemplo, si quieres buscar hojas de ruta de otra gente para ver cómo se hacen y publicar la tuya, poniendo ''«[HOJA DE RUTA]»'' en el buscador tendrías todas las que se han publicado últimamente.<br />
<br />
Tienes una [[#Etiquetas|lista de las etiquetas más frecuentes]] al final de esta página.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo editar los temas una vez publicados? ===<br />
No, una vez publicados ya sólo se pueden añadir respuestas. Si quieres rectificar algo siempre puedes responder en tu publicación con la corrección que creas necesaria.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo responder en cualquier tema abierto? ===<br />
Por supuesto. Cualquier tema que creas interesante o en el que te interese participar está abierto para ti. Trata de evitar respuestas que no aporten nada a hilos, como «jaja» u «ok».<br />
Sin embargo, cuando se comienza a hablar de un tema, si a lo largo del hilo por algún motivo se comienza a hablar de otra cosa, abre un tema aparte. Si los temas de conversación se entremezclan la lista resulta muy difícil de leer.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo adjuntar archivos? ===<br />
No es recomendable. Lo correcto es poner un enlace a lo que quieras aportar. Al postear se envían correos a muchas personas, y por cada una, una copia de los ficheros que has adjuntado. Piensa en primer lugar si lo que vas a adjuntar aporta algo y, si es así, súbelo a algún servicio de intercambio de ficheros genérico, como [http://dropbox.com/ Dropbox], o especializado, como [http://imageshack.us/ ImageShack] o [http://thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse], y enlázalo desde tu correo.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Hay algún buscador? ===<br />
Sí. En la barra superior está el buscador de temas. Antes de escribir con alguna duda es altamente recomendable buscar por si alguien ya lo ha preguntado. Además existe bastante documentación en castellano, y muchísima en inglés. Infórmate bien antes de preguntar y, en caso de que en castellano no encuentres la información que necesitas y tengas problemas con el inglés, existe una gran comunidad dispuesta a ayudarte. Si tu duda queda resuelta y no estaba bien documentada la solución, documéntala.<br />
<br />
=== ¿La lista de correo es pública? ===<br />
Los mensajes que envías a la lista son públicos y permanentes. No podrás ''«deshacer»'', así que piénsate dos veces lo que envías. Sobra decir que no reveles contraseñas, números de tarjeta, y cualquier otro dato que consideres sensible o personal.<br />
<br />
Si vas a contestar en privado a uno de los participantes en la lista, asegúrate de que el destinatario del correo es él y no la lista.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Y si alguien no cumple las normas? ===<br />
Invita a los usuarios a seguir la netiquette enlazándoles a esta página o recordándoles las buenas formas que no ponen en práctica.<br />
<br />
== Etiquetas ==<br />
<br />
;[PRESENTACION]: Para darse a conocer los nuevos participantes en la lista.<br />
<br />
;[HOJA DE RUTA]: En el caso que estés construyendo una impresora y quieras mostrar su evolución.<br />
<br />
;[PROBLEMA]: Para describir un problema concreto, que te trae de cabeza y para el que no has encontrado solución en el [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Clone_Wars_FAQ/es FAQ], ni en otros hilos en la lista.<br />
<br />
;[DUDA]: En el caso de que tengas una duda que no puedas clasificar en otra categoría, utiliza esta etiqueta.<br />
<br />
;[ELECTRONICA]: En el caso de que abras un hilo en el que se hablará de un tema relacionado con RAMPS, arduino, pololus, cableado, calentadores...<br />
<br />
;[SOFTWARE]: En el caso de que vayas a hablar sobre aplicaciones de impresión, laminado o firmware.<br />
<br />
;[DESARROLLO]: Si vas a hablar sobre una mejora para las impresoras, puedes utilizar esta etiqueta.<br />
<br />
;[PROYECTO]: Si quieres contarle a la comunidad algún proyecto que estés llevando a cabo relacionado con la impresión 3D.<br />
<br />
;[EVENTO]: En el caso de que estés convocando o anunciando una quedada, charlas...<br />
<br />
;[DONACION] [TRUEQUE] o [VENTA]: En el caso de que estés anunciando una donación, trueque o venta de piezas impresas o vitaminas para algún modelo de impresora.<br />
<br />
;[WIKI]: En el caso de que se vaya a tratar un asunto relacionado con la documentación de la wiki.<br />
<br />
;[OFFTOPIC]: En el caso de que tu correo no esté estrechamente relacionado con el tema de la impresión 3D, o sea un correo lúdico.<br />
<br />
;[...]: Esta lista no está ni mucho menos completa, siéntete libre de editarla y añadir las etiquetas que creas necesarias.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clone_Wars_Netiquette/es&diff=179183Clone Wars Netiquette/es2017-04-19T23:55:01Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* ¿Qué es una etiqueta? */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Clone_Wars_Netiquette}}<br />
== ¿Qué es la Netiquette? ==<br />
Es un conjunto de normas de comportamiento dentro de internet. En concreto esta netiquette es para la [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] del [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]. La [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] es un medio a través del cual compartir tus experiencias, informar de eventos, preguntar tus dudas, siempre en lo relacionado con impresión 3D libre.<br />
<br />
{{Notice|'''Nota'''. Esta lista de correo no es ''el canal de soporte gratuito'' de ninguna empresa, por lo que si te has comprado una impresora y no te funciona, deberías preguntarle antes a la empresa que te la vendió.}}<br />
<br />
== Cosas que tengo que saber ==<br />
<br />
=== ¿Por dónde empiezo? ===<br />
Es muy recomendable que tu primer correo a la lista sea un correo en el que te presentes, de forma que cualquiera pueda saber quien eres leyendo tu primer correo en el archivo de la lista. Hay alguna información que es interesante que ese correo contenga:<br />
<br />
* '''Tu nombre'''; o si lo prefieres, tu apodo.<br />
* Es recomendable que digas '''de que zona eres''', para que si hay algún grupo cercano te pueda informar.<br />
* Si tienes intención de ponerte a construir una impresora RepRap, dí '''que modelo vas a construir''' y, si ya has decidido que nombre ponerle, también puedes decirlo.<br />
<br />
No hace falta que preguntes por donde empezar, la información que necesitas está en el [[Proyecto Clone Wars]], así que '''primero lee y luego pregunta'''.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Hay que ser formal al escribir? ===<br />
No hace falta, estamos entre amigos, no es una carta al Presidente. Se cortés, escribe bien. Saludar y despedirte en los correos puede ser conveniente al comenzar y dar por finalizada una conversación o hilo, en medio quizá sea innecesario. Escribe en minúsculas y trata de evitar faltas de ortografía o escribir con demasiadas abreviaturas.<br />
<br />
Si estás explicando un problema con tu impresora o alguna duda, intenta dar los detalles necesarios para poner a los demás en situación, nadie es adivino!<br />
<br />
Piensa bien lo que quieres decir, redacta con tranquilidad y de forma estructurada. Una duda mal planteada puede quedar sin resolver.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Qué pongo en el asunto? ===<br />
Debe ser conciso, trata de evitar asuntos como «tengo una duda» o «quien puede ayudarme». En lugar de eso puedes poner un titular para tu consulta. Por ejemplo, "[DUDA] Los motores se mueven al revés".<br />
<br />
Evita escribir temas que contengan toda la información en el asunto. El desarrollo y los detalles irán después en el mensaje. Debe ser breve, aunque tampoco pongas "[DUDA]" a secas. Un término medio.<br />
<br />
Es bueno usar [[#Etiquetas|etiquetas]].<br />
<br />
Y donde dice ''«Es bueno usar etiquetas»'' léase ''«No es que sea obligatorio..., pero '''HAY que usar etiquetas'''»''.<br />
<br />
... Y no pasa nada si se te olvida ponerla, pero el primer mensaje que obtendrás entonces como respuesta será de nuestro querido ''«Prusador del Frac»'' que amablemente te recordará que '''HAY que usar etiquetas''' para la próxima vez.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Qué es una etiqueta? ===<br />
Las [[#Etiquetas|etiquetas]] se usan para clasificar los temas. Se tienen que escribir en el asunto al crear un tema nuevo y deben ir siempre entre corchetes (''['' y '']'').<br />
<br />
Cuando necesites buscar sobre algún tema en concreto, escribiendo la etiqueta (con los corchetes) en el buscador te saldrán todos los que están etiquetados y por tanto, relacionados. Por ejemplo, si quieres buscar hojas de ruta de otra gente para ver cómo se hacen y publicar la tuya, poniendo ''«[HOJA DE RUTA]»'' en el buscador tendrías todas las que se han publicado últimamente.<br />
<br />
Tienes una [[#Etiquetas|lista de las etiquetas más frecuentes]] al final de esta página.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo editar los temas una vez publicados? ===<br />
No, una vez publicados ya sólo se pueden añadir respuestas. Si quieres rectificar algo siempre puedes responder en tu publicación con la corrección que creas necesaria.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo responder en cualquier tema abierto? ===<br />
Por supuesto. Cualquier tema que creas interesante o en el que te interese participar está abierto para ti. Trata de evitar respuestas que no aporten nada a hilos, como «jaja» u «ok».<br />
Sin embargo, cuando se comienza a hablar de un tema, si a lo largo del hilo por algún motivo se comienza a hablar de otra cosa, abre un tema aparte. Si los temas de conversación se entremezclan la lista resulta muy difícil de leer.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo adjuntar archivos? ===<br />
No es recomendable. Lo correcto es poner un enlace a lo que quieras aportar. Al postear se envían correos a muchas personas, y por cada una, una copia de los ficheros que has adjuntado. Piensa en primer lugar si lo que vas a adjuntar aporta algo y, si es así, súbelo a algún servicio de intercambio de ficheros genérico, como [http://dropbox.com/ Dropbox], o especializado, como [http://imageshack.us/ ImageShack] o [http://thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse], y enlázalo desde tu correo.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Hay algún buscador? ===<br />
Sí. En la barra superior está el buscador de temas. Antes de escribir con alguna duda es altamente recomendable buscar por si alguien ya lo ha preguntado. Además existe bastante documentación en castellano, y muchísima en inglés. Infórmate bien antes de preguntar y, en caso de que en castellano no encuentres la información que necesitas y tengas problemas con el inglés, existe una gran comunidad dispuesta a ayudarte. Si tu duda queda resuelta y no estaba bien documentada la solución, documéntala.<br />
<br />
=== ¿La lista de correo es pública? ===<br />
Los temas que posteas son públicos y permanentes. No podrás «deshacer», así que piensate dos veces lo que envías. Sobra decir que no reveles contraseñas, números de tarjeta, y cualquier otro dato que consideres sensible o personal. Si vas a contestar en privado a uno de los participantes en la lista, asegúrate de que el destinatario del correo es él y no la lista.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Y si alguien no cumple las normas? ===<br />
Invita a los usuarios a seguir la netiquette enlazándoles a esta página o recordándoles las buenas formas que no ponen en práctica.<br />
<br />
== Etiquetas ==<br />
<br />
;[PRESENTACION]: Para darse a conocer los nuevos participantes en la lista.<br />
<br />
;[HOJA DE RUTA]: En el caso que estés construyendo una impresora y quieras mostrar su evolución.<br />
<br />
;[PROBLEMA]: Para describir un problema concreto, que te trae de cabeza y para el que no has encontrado solución en el [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Clone_Wars_FAQ/es FAQ], ni en otros hilos en la lista.<br />
<br />
;[DUDA]: En el caso de que tengas una duda que no puedas clasificar en otra categoría, utiliza esta etiqueta.<br />
<br />
;[ELECTRONICA]: En el caso de que abras un hilo en el que se hablará de un tema relacionado con RAMPS, arduino, pololus, cableado, calentadores...<br />
<br />
;[SOFTWARE]: En el caso de que vayas a hablar sobre aplicaciones de impresión, laminado o firmware.<br />
<br />
;[DESARROLLO]: Si vas a hablar sobre una mejora para las impresoras, puedes utilizar esta etiqueta.<br />
<br />
;[PROYECTO]: Si quieres contarle a la comunidad algún proyecto que estés llevando a cabo relacionado con la impresión 3D.<br />
<br />
;[EVENTO]: En el caso de que estés convocando o anunciando una quedada, charlas...<br />
<br />
;[DONACION] [TRUEQUE] o [VENTA]: En el caso de que estés anunciando una donación, trueque o venta de piezas impresas o vitaminas para algún modelo de impresora.<br />
<br />
;[WIKI]: En el caso de que se vaya a tratar un asunto relacionado con la documentación de la wiki.<br />
<br />
;[OFFTOPIC]: En el caso de que tu correo no esté estrechamente relacionado con el tema de la impresión 3D, o sea un correo lúdico.<br />
<br />
;[...]: Esta lista no está ni mucho menos completa, siéntete libre de editarla y añadir las etiquetas que creas necesarias.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clone_Wars_Netiquette/es&diff=179182Clone Wars Netiquette/es2017-04-19T23:49:46Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* ¿Por dónde empiezo? */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Clone_Wars_Netiquette}}<br />
== ¿Qué es la Netiquette? ==<br />
Es un conjunto de normas de comportamiento dentro de internet. En concreto esta netiquette es para la [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] del [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]. La [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] es un medio a través del cual compartir tus experiencias, informar de eventos, preguntar tus dudas, siempre en lo relacionado con impresión 3D libre.<br />
<br />
{{Notice|'''Nota'''. Esta lista de correo no es ''el canal de soporte gratuito'' de ninguna empresa, por lo que si te has comprado una impresora y no te funciona, deberías preguntarle antes a la empresa que te la vendió.}}<br />
<br />
== Cosas que tengo que saber ==<br />
<br />
=== ¿Por dónde empiezo? ===<br />
Es muy recomendable que tu primer correo a la lista sea un correo en el que te presentes, de forma que cualquiera pueda saber quien eres leyendo tu primer correo en el archivo de la lista. Hay alguna información que es interesante que ese correo contenga:<br />
<br />
* '''Tu nombre'''; o si lo prefieres, tu apodo.<br />
* Es recomendable que digas '''de que zona eres''', para que si hay algún grupo cercano te pueda informar.<br />
* Si tienes intención de ponerte a construir una impresora RepRap, dí '''que modelo vas a construir''' y, si ya has decidido que nombre ponerle, también puedes decirlo.<br />
<br />
No hace falta que preguntes por donde empezar, la información que necesitas está en el [[Proyecto Clone Wars]], así que '''primero lee y luego pregunta'''.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Hay que ser formal al escribir? ===<br />
No hace falta, estamos entre amigos, no es una carta al Presidente. Se cortés, escribe bien. Saludar y despedirte en los correos puede ser conveniente al comenzar y dar por finalizada una conversación o hilo, en medio quizá sea innecesario. Escribe en minúsculas y trata de evitar faltas de ortografía o escribir con demasiadas abreviaturas.<br />
<br />
Si estás explicando un problema con tu impresora o alguna duda, intenta dar los detalles necesarios para poner a los demás en situación, nadie es adivino!<br />
<br />
Piensa bien lo que quieres decir, redacta con tranquilidad y de forma estructurada. Una duda mal planteada puede quedar sin resolver.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Qué pongo en el asunto? ===<br />
Debe ser conciso, trata de evitar asuntos como «tengo una duda» o «quien puede ayudarme». En lugar de eso puedes poner un titular para tu consulta. Por ejemplo, "[DUDA] Los motores se mueven al revés".<br />
<br />
Evita escribir temas que contengan toda la información en el asunto. El desarrollo y los detalles irán después en el mensaje. Debe ser breve, aunque tampoco pongas "[DUDA]" a secas. Un término medio.<br />
<br />
Es bueno usar [[#Etiquetas|etiquetas]].<br />
<br />
Y donde dice ''«Es bueno usar etiquetas»'' léase ''«No es que sea obligatorio..., pero '''HAY que usar etiquetas'''»''.<br />
<br />
... Y no pasa nada si se te olvida ponerla, pero el primer mensaje que obtendrás entonces como respuesta será de nuestro querido ''«Prusador del Frac»'' que amablemente te recordará que '''HAY que usar etiquetas''' para la próxima vez.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Qué es una etiqueta? ===<br />
Las [[#Etiquetas|etiquetas]] se usan para clasificar los temas. Se escriben en el asunto al crear un tema nuevo y van siempre entre corchetes: [ ]. Cuando necesites buscar sobre algún tema en concreto, escribiendo la etiqueta (con los corchetes) en el buscador te saldrán todos los que están etiquetados y por tanto, relacionados. Por ejemplo, si quieres buscar hojas de ruta de otra gente para ver cómo se hacen y publicar la tuya, poniendo "[Hoja de ruta]" en el buscador tendrías todas las que se han publicado últimamente.<br />
<br />
La lista de las etiquetas más usadas está al final de esta página.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo editar los temas una vez publicados? ===<br />
No, una vez publicados ya sólo se pueden añadir respuestas. Si quieres rectificar algo siempre puedes responder en tu publicación con la corrección que creas necesaria.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo responder en cualquier tema abierto? ===<br />
Por supuesto. Cualquier tema que creas interesante o en el que te interese participar está abierto para ti. Trata de evitar respuestas que no aporten nada a hilos, como «jaja» u «ok».<br />
Sin embargo, cuando se comienza a hablar de un tema, si a lo largo del hilo por algún motivo se comienza a hablar de otra cosa, abre un tema aparte. Si los temas de conversación se entremezclan la lista resulta muy difícil de leer.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo adjuntar archivos? ===<br />
No es recomendable. Lo correcto es poner un enlace a lo que quieras aportar. Al postear se envían correos a muchas personas, y por cada una, una copia de los ficheros que has adjuntado. Piensa en primer lugar si lo que vas a adjuntar aporta algo y, si es así, súbelo a algún servicio de intercambio de ficheros genérico, como [http://dropbox.com/ Dropbox], o especializado, como [http://imageshack.us/ ImageShack] o [http://thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse], y enlázalo desde tu correo.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Hay algún buscador? ===<br />
Sí. En la barra superior está el buscador de temas. Antes de escribir con alguna duda es altamente recomendable buscar por si alguien ya lo ha preguntado. Además existe bastante documentación en castellano, y muchísima en inglés. Infórmate bien antes de preguntar y, en caso de que en castellano no encuentres la información que necesitas y tengas problemas con el inglés, existe una gran comunidad dispuesta a ayudarte. Si tu duda queda resuelta y no estaba bien documentada la solución, documéntala.<br />
<br />
=== ¿La lista de correo es pública? ===<br />
Los temas que posteas son públicos y permanentes. No podrás «deshacer», así que piensate dos veces lo que envías. Sobra decir que no reveles contraseñas, números de tarjeta, y cualquier otro dato que consideres sensible o personal. Si vas a contestar en privado a uno de los participantes en la lista, asegúrate de que el destinatario del correo es él y no la lista.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Y si alguien no cumple las normas? ===<br />
Invita a los usuarios a seguir la netiquette enlazándoles a esta página o recordándoles las buenas formas que no ponen en práctica.<br />
<br />
== Etiquetas ==<br />
<br />
;[PRESENTACION]: Para darse a conocer los nuevos participantes en la lista.<br />
<br />
;[HOJA DE RUTA]: En el caso que estés construyendo una impresora y quieras mostrar su evolución.<br />
<br />
;[PROBLEMA]: Para describir un problema concreto, que te trae de cabeza y para el que no has encontrado solución en el [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Clone_Wars_FAQ/es FAQ], ni en otros hilos en la lista.<br />
<br />
;[DUDA]: En el caso de que tengas una duda que no puedas clasificar en otra categoría, utiliza esta etiqueta.<br />
<br />
;[ELECTRONICA]: En el caso de que abras un hilo en el que se hablará de un tema relacionado con RAMPS, arduino, pololus, cableado, calentadores...<br />
<br />
;[SOFTWARE]: En el caso de que vayas a hablar sobre aplicaciones de impresión, laminado o firmware.<br />
<br />
;[DESARROLLO]: Si vas a hablar sobre una mejora para las impresoras, puedes utilizar esta etiqueta.<br />
<br />
;[PROYECTO]: Si quieres contarle a la comunidad algún proyecto que estés llevando a cabo relacionado con la impresión 3D.<br />
<br />
;[EVENTO]: En el caso de que estés convocando o anunciando una quedada, charlas...<br />
<br />
;[DONACION] [TRUEQUE] o [VENTA]: En el caso de que estés anunciando una donación, trueque o venta de piezas impresas o vitaminas para algún modelo de impresora.<br />
<br />
;[WIKI]: En el caso de que se vaya a tratar un asunto relacionado con la documentación de la wiki.<br />
<br />
;[OFFTOPIC]: En el caso de que tu correo no esté estrechamente relacionado con el tema de la impresión 3D, o sea un correo lúdico.<br />
<br />
;[...]: Esta lista no está ni mucho menos completa, siéntete libre de editarla y añadir las etiquetas que creas necesarias.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Useful_Software_Packages&diff=178768Useful Software Packages2017-03-16T12:55:14Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Meikian Live */ Abandoned development</p>
<hr />
<div>This is the place to put details of software packages that are useful for RepRap (like CAD programs), but that are not part of the RepRap project itself. Give a paragraph or so of explanation on each package and a link to its home page. Please also say what platforms it runs on, what licence it is distributed under, and whether it is free.<br />
<br />
==2D and 3D CAD software==<br />
<br />
(Other places that discuss CAD software:<br />
[[RepRap Options#CAD Tools]];<br />
[http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?80 RepRap forum "3D Design tools"];<br />
[http://diyhpl.us/diyhpluswiki/cadfaq/ "open source CAD"];<br />
etc.)<br />
<br />
<br />
===Open-source software===<br />
<br />
====Assimp====<br />
<br />
[http://assimp.sourceforge.net Open Asset Import Library] (short name: ''Assimp'') is a portable Open Source library to import various well-known 3D model formats in a uniform manner. The most recent version also knows how to export 3d files and is therefore suitable as general-purpose 3D model converter. See the [http://assimp.sourceforge.net/main_features.html feature list]. ([http://assimp.sourceforge.net/main_viewer.html The asset viewer] application is 'Windows only' I'm afraid.)<br />
<br />
====Art of Illusion====<br />
<br />
[[AoI]] is a graphics-oriented 3D modeler that's written entirely in Java. can be used to output STL files. or add [[Skeinforge]] to output GCode.<br />
<br />
Although it is a 3D graphics design tool, it is also good for engineering design. It has a very easy and quick-to-learn user interface. AoI runs on Linux, Windows or Mac, and is freely available under the GPL.<br />
<br />
AoI, for all its shortcomings, is probably the most used 3D modeling package in the RepRap community, primarily because of its very short learning curve. V2.7 experiences problems with booleans, and 2.6 is currently recommended - particularly with the CSG Evaluator plugin.<br />
<br />
There is also a page on [[Reprap-specific plugins for AoI]].<br />
<br />
[http://www.artofillusion.org/ Art of Illusion]<br />
<br />
====Blender====<br />
<br />
Blender was originally intended for the same applications as AoI. It has a very 'efficient' user interface, which includes a number of single-key keyboard commands. This is a very powerful and fast way of working, but can intimidate would-be users. (Don't be scared, blender is fun!) It may be arguably more powerful than AoI, and has a huge user community. Blender is scriptable in Python, runs on Linux, Windows or Mac, and is freely available under the GPL.<br />
<br />
[http://www.blender.org/ Blender]<br />
<br />
Also See:<br />
* [[Using Blender for making print-sheets]]<br />
* [http://homepage.ntlworld.com/r.burke2/precision_modelling1.html Blender Precision Modelling Tutorial]<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Blender Wikibooks: Blender]<br />
<br />
====BlenderCAD====<br />
BlenderCAD is a pre-alpha attempt to build CAD functionality into Blender.<br />
*[https://projects.blender.org/projects/blendercad/ Home Page ]<br />
*[https://projects.blender.org/forum/forum.php?thread_id=199203&forum_id=174 General Forum ]<br />
*[http://sourceforge.net/projects/blendercad/ Sourceforge page]<br />
*[http://lists.blender.org/mailman/listinfo/blendercad-dev Mailing List]<br />
*IRC: If you are interested the online meeting is on irc.freenode.net, channel #cad, and port 6667. The third Saturday of every month. 12:00 - 13:00, (GMT-7)<br />
<br />
====BRL-CAD====<br />
<br />
BRL-CAD is a cross-platform open source solid modeling system that includes interactive geometry editing, high-performance ray-tracing for rendering and geometric analysis, image and signal-processing tools, a system performance analysis benchmark suite, libraries for robust geometric representation, with more than 20 years of active development. BRL-CAD runs on BSD, Irix, Linux, Mac OS X, Solaris, and Windows. BRL-CAD became an open source project in 2004, with portions licensed under the LGPL and BSD licenses.<br />
<br />
[http://brlcad.org/ BRL-CAD]<br />
<br />
==== CadQuery ====<br />
<br />
The CadQuery language is a python-based language for building parametric 3D CAD models.<br />
The CadQuery software is very different from other 3D modeling software (except OpenSCAD)<br />
because it stores models in relatively human-readable script files<br />
that it later renders into STL, STEP, and [[AMF file]]s.<br />
FreeCAD can be used as a CadQuery IDE.<br />
* https://github.com/dcowden/cadquery<br />
<br />
====EQUINOX-3D====<br />
<br />
[[wikipedia:EQUINOX-3D|EQUINOX-3D]] is a free, advanced 3D modeling, CAD/CAM, animation and photorealistic rendering package. <br />
It runs great on Linux and a Mac OS version is in the works.<br />
<br />
EQUINOX-3D has advanced polygonal, subdivision surface and spline-based 3D modeling, animation and photorealistic rendering.<br />
<br />
It is (still) the only 3D package with a deeply integrated, interactive raytracer with global illumination.<br />
You can do modeling on a fast, ray-traced window, with the 3D user interface overlaid on the photorealistic image!<br />
<br />
EQUINOX-3D is about 80% open source at the moment, working on a fully buildable source release.<br />
<br />
It has many 3D printing, laser cutting, CAD CAM features.<br />
It's very powerful and user-friendly.<br />
<br />
It has been recently updated, with a huge number of new features:<br />
[http://www.equinox3d.com/news.html EQUINOX-3D list of new featues]<br />
<br />
[http://www.equinox3d.com EQUINOX-3D Official Web site]<br />
<br />
====FreeCAD====<br />
<br />
[[wikipedia:FreeCAD|FreeCAD]] is intended to be a full 3D mechanical engineering CAD package. It is still under development, but already usable. [[FreeCAD]] is based on [[wikipedia:OpenCasCade|OpenCasCade]], [[wikipedia:QT|QT]] and [[wikipedia:Python|Python]], runs on Linux, MacOSX and Windows, and is freely available under the [[wikipedia:GPL|GPL]] and [[wikipedia:LGPL|LGPL]]. It is aimed directly at mechanical engineering and product design but also fits in a wider range of uses around engineering, such as architecture or other engineering specialties and is oriented more toward technical drawings than freehand sketching--for example, you move objects by editing their XYZ coordinates. <br />
<br />
However, it has a much friendlier learning curve than say, [[OpenSCAD]] for those who are unfamiliar with programming. It can also open some OpenSCAD models (OpenSCAD needs to be installed). Being Free as Freedom, it is more suitable to use than proprietary software as [[Sketchup]].<br />
There is a dedicated wiki page where the community shares various -> [[FreeCAD|FreeCAD resources]] on tutorials, tips, cheats, any workarounds and so forth.<br />
<br />
[http://www.freecadweb.org/ FreeCAD Official Website]<br />
<br />
====HeeksCAD====<br />
: ''main article: [[HeeksCAD/es]]''<br />
<br />
HeeksCAD, like [[FreeCAD]], is based on [http://www.opencascade.org/ OpenCasCade], and has similar modeling functionality, with neutral IGES, STEP and STL file format exchange. It's much less dependent on parametric editing than FreeCAD and the GUI is more integrated, not modular. Its development has slowed down, and Windows installers have not been updated since 2011. The software needs to be compiled from source for Linux systems. Distributed under BSD license. <br />
<br />
* [https://github.com/Heeks/heekscad HeeksCAD Source code]<br />
* [https://code.google.com/p/heekscad/downloads/list HeeksCAD Downloads]<br />
<br />
====Inkscape====<br />
<br />
[http://www.inkscape.org/ Inkscape] is an Open Source vector graphics editor, with capabilities similar to Illustrator, CorelDraw, or Xara X. It uses the W3C standard Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG) file format. Inkscape is released under GPL Version 2.<br />
<br />
* There is a plugin for Inkscape which allows generation of gcode from a path. You may need to add nodes and then straighten all line segments before gcoding the path (then perhaps edit output files) to them work, as currently (Mar 2012) Sprinter won't interpret curves correctly, and some of the GCodes seem to make it freeze. [http://www.cnc-club.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=35&start=0 Gcodetools]<br />
<br />
* Another Plugin for Inkscape which is based on the Hershey Text Plugin for Inkscape, just with the option to place and customize Single-Line-Text in Layouts via .xml File. It make it easy to generate series of signs for example, with exact layout but different text. More Information can be found on [https://github.com/HardRainbow/Hardy-Hershey-Text this Git-Hub Link]<br />
<br />
====K3D====<br />
<br />
Another simple 3D modeler with no STL support.<br />
<br />
[http://www.k-3d.org K3D]<br />
<br />
====LibreCAD====<br />
<br />
LibreCAD is an application for computer aided drafting in two dimensions (2D). It is a fork of QCAD. you can create technical drawings such as plans for buildings, interiors, mechanical parts or schemas and diagrams. LibreCAD works on Windows, Mac OS X and many Linux and Unix Systems. The source code is released under the GPL.<br />
<br />
[http://librecad.org/cms/home.html LibreCAD]<br />
<br />
==== OpenSCAD ====<br />
: ''main article: [[OpenSCAD]]''<br />
<br />
[[OpenSCAD]] is a scripted modeller which produces CSG (Constructive Solid Geometry) and 2D outlines.<br />
It is free software and available for Linux/UNIX, MS Windows and Apples Mac OS X.<br />
It supports DFX, STL and OFF file formats and is designed for the engineer not the artist.<br />
Can be used from the command line to generate bespoke STL objects. e.g. > openscad -m make -s gears_helical.stl -D teethNum=15 gears_helical.scad<br />
* [http://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD main page and download]<br />
* [http://rocklinux.net/mailman/listinfo/openscad Mailing list and archives]<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual Manual]<br />
* [http://blog.thingiverse.com/2009/11/06/in-which-openscad-wins-me-over/ Endorsement]<br />
<br />
====POVray====<br />
<br />
Quoting the official site "The Persistence of Vision Raytracer (POVray) is a high-quality, Free Software tool for creating stunning three-dimensional graphics. The source code is available for those wanting to do their own ports."<br />
Shapes are described in scripts which are then rendered. Scripts can also render multiple stills which can be compiled into Ogg Theora videos using tools png2yuv and ffmpeg2theora. Good online documentation is available on the official site.<br />
<br />
====pyGear====<br />
<br />
Built on top of pythonOCC, OpenCascade, numpy and scipy, [http://sourceforge.net/projects/pygear/ pyGear] serves as an CAE/CAD-preprocessor generator of [[wikipedia:Involute_gear|involute gears]].<br />
<br />
====PythonOCC====<br />
<br />
A python wrapper for the [http://www.opencascade.org/ OpenCascade] and Salome ([http://sf.net/projects/salomegeometry salome-geometry] and [http://sf.net/projects/salomesmesh salome-mesh]) libraries. <br />
Supports constructive solid geometry, data exchange, meshing, GUI development (wxPython, PyQt, python-xlib), parametric modeling.<br />
FEM solver integration with ([http://www.code-aster.org/V2/spip.php?rubrique2 Code Aster]) is underway.<br />
(Not a GUI based CAD program, but aims to be a scripting framework for rapid development of custom CAE solutions.)<br />
<br />
[http://www.pythonocc.org/ PythonOCC]<br />
<br />
====QCAD====<br />
<br />
QCAD is an application for computer aided drafting in two dimensions (2D). With QCAD you can create technical drawings such as plans for buildings, interiors, mechanical parts or schemas and diagrams. QCAD works on Windows, Mac OS X and many Linux and Unix Systems. The source code of the free QCAD community edition is released under the GPL.<br />
<br />
[http://www.qcad.org QCAD]<br />
<br />
==== ScorchCAD ====<br />
<br />
ScorchCad is an Android version of OpenSCAD. For more information go to http://scorchworks.com/ScorchCAD/scorchcad.html<br />
<br />
==== Shapesmith ====<br />
<br />
"Parametric, Open-Source 3D Modeling in your browser".<br />
Benjamin Nortier has released Shapesmith under the Apache License on Github.<br />
(Erlang, JavaScript).<br />
<br />
http://shapesmith.net/<br />
<br />
==== SolveSpace ====<br />
SolveSpace is a parametric 3d CAD program.<br />
<br />
Release 2.0 is now available under the GPL and offers:<br />
* '''modeling 3d parts''' — draw with extrudes, revolves, and Boolean (union / difference) operations <br />
* '''modeling 2d parts''' — draw the part as a single section, and export DXF, PDF, SVG; use 3d assembly to verify fit <br />
* '''preparing CAM data''' — export 2d vector art for a waterjet machine or laser cutter; or generate STEP or '''STL''', for import into third-party CAM software <br />
* '''mechanism design''' — use the constraint solver to simulate planar or spatial linkages, with pin, ball, or slide joints <br />
* '''plane and solid geometry''' — replace hand-solved trigonometry and spreadsheets with a live dimensioned drawing <br />
<br />
http://solvespace.com<br />
<br />
<br />
====Wings3D====<br />
<br />
Wings3D is a free and open source 3D modeller ([[Wikipedia: subdivision modeller]]). Designs can be exported as STL and STL files can be imported. Wings3d can be extended using available plugins, and you can write your own plugins in Erlang.<br />
(The [[#KiCad]] 3D view uses Wings3D)<br />
<br />
* official site: http://www.wings3d.com/<br />
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Wings_3D Wikibooks: Wings 3D] and [[Wikipedia: Wings 3D]]<br />
* [http://wings.sourceforge.net Sourceforge: Wings3D] and [https://github.com/dgud/wings GitHub: Wings3D]<br />
<br />
===Unknown licence===<br />
<br />
====Archimedes====<br />
<br />
Brasilian 3D package. Apparently became orphanware in 2007.<br />
<br />
[http://archimedescad.github.io/Archimedes/ Archimedes]<br />
<br />
==== Replath ====<br />
<br />
Many of the programs on this page generate files in SVG or DXF or Gerber format.<br />
[[Builders/Replath]] imports files in those formats<br />
and produces standard G-code files and standard SVG files (and a few other formats).<br />
<br />
===Closed source===<br />
<br />
====OnShape====<br />
<br />
Onshape is the first and only full-cloud 3D CAD system that lets everyone on a design team simultaneously work together using a web browser, phone or tablet. Onshape is a complete parametric CAD system, which means that changing a model's underlying dimensions or placement of features or dimensions of features can be made at any time without damaging the integrity of the model. The free version of OnShape provides 100% of the functionality of the professional version, but limits each user to 5 active documents.<br />
<br />
onshape . com<br />
<br />
====Autodesk 123D Beta====<br />
<br />
Clean, Simple<br />
<br />
http://www.123dapp.com/<br />
<br />
====Autodesk Inventor (Student Version)====<br />
<br />
Students can download the professional version of Autodesk Inventor 2010, 2011 or 2012 after registration on the Autodesk website (link below). It is a powerful tool for creating 3D CAD models. It can import and export the industrial standard CAD files like STEP or IGES and export STL files.<br />
<br />
[http://students.autodesk.com/ Autodesk]<br />
<br />
====Autodesk Inventor Fusion====<br />
<br />
3D (non-parametric) modeling application is simple to learn and use. You can download a free widows version at [http://labs.autodesk.com/utilities/fusion/ Autodesk Labs] and is good until June 1, 2011. A Mac native preview has been unveiled and is planned to be available early 2012. More information on [http://www.facebook.com/InventorFusion Facebook].<br />
This software includes solid and surface modeling along with translators and exporters for many profesional cad tools.<br />
<br />
====AutoQ3D====<br />
<br />
AutoQ3D Animation is an affordable and easy 3D CAD with animation capabilities. It is suitable for anyone interested in learning 3D CAD and Animation before using more sophisticated packages. It runs on Windows, Mac, Linux, iOS and Android.<br />
<br />
[http://autoq3d.com/ AutoQ3D]<br />
<br />
====CATIA====<br />
<br />
CATIA is a massively insanely expensive software package that is used by aerospace and automobile manufacturers. Licenses can be in the tens of thousands of dollars depending on what features you buy. It is made by Dessault Systèmes, the same company that makes SolidWorks and the free 2D Draft Sight CAD software.<br />
<br />
[http://www.3ds.com/products/catia/ CATIA]<br />
<br />
====Cheetah3D====<br />
<br />
Cheetah3D is a powerful 3D modeling, rendering and animation software for Mac OS X. It offers native support for importing and exporting STL files (ASCII and Binary).<br />
<br />
[http://www.cheetah3d.com Cheetah3D]<br />
<br />
====CoCreate====<br />
<br />
CoCreate Modeling Personal Edition is free for non-professional use. It is limited to 60 parts in one design and can only save designs in its own proprietary format, but it can export STL and VRML and import STEP and IGES. It is Windows only and needs an internet connection every three days. Apparently, very easy to use. {content abstracted from [http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/06/from-illusion-to-creation.html Hydraraptor]}<br />
<br />
[http://www.ptc.com/products/cocreate/ CoCreate]<br />
<br />
====DesignSpark Mechanical====<br />
<br />
DesignSpark Mechanical is a free 3D design software. A derivative of the Spaceclaim software, it is provided free by RS components.<br />
<br />
[http://www.designspark.com/eng/page/mechanical http://www.designspark.com/eng/page/mechanical]<br />
<br />
====iTracer====<br />
<br />
iTracer is a 3D modeling and rendering application for the iPhone. There are instructions for creating models for 3D printing using it [http://www.instructables.com/id/Creating-a-Model-for-3D-Printing-on-an-iPhoneiPod/ on Instructables here]. It costs $2.<br />
<br />
[http://www.mode2.com.br/Apps/Apps.html iTracer]<br />
<br />
====Moldex3D eDesign====<br />
<br />
Moldex3D is the world leading CAE product for the plastic injection molding industry. With the best-in-class analysis technology, Moldex3D can help you carry out in-depth simulation of the widest range of injection molding processes and to optimize product designs and manufacturability. In addition, its high compatibility and adaptability have provided users with instant connection to mainstream CAD systems, generating a flexible simulation-driven design platform.<br />
<br />
[https://www.polymerportal.org/software Moldex3D eDesign]<br />
<br />
====Moment of Inspiration (MoI 3D)====<br />
<br />
3D modeling for designers and artists. NURBS-based CAD modeling tool with excelllent quality mesh export. Costs $295 for the full license, free to try for a month.<br />
[http://moi3d.com MoI 3D]<br />
<br />
====NX Unigraphix (a.k.a U-G)====<br />
<br />
This, along with Catia is the other major player in proprietary CAD software. It is crazy expensive just like Catia and used by major manufacturers.<br />
<br />
[http://www.plm.automation.siemens.com/en_us/products/nx/ Unigraphics NX]<br />
<br />
====Rhino====<br />
<br />
Rhino is an easy 3D CAD with strong modeling capabilities. It is the most used software in entire micro-verticals such as architecture and jewelry.<br />
<br />
[http://www.rhino3d.com Rhino 3D]<br />
<br />
====Sculptris====<br />
<br />
Free digital sculpting application from the makers of Zbrush<br />
<br />
http://pixologic.com/sculptris/<br />
<br />
====Sketchup====<br />
<br />
Sketchup is primarily intended for designing architectural models, but it can be used for general 3D design as well.<br />
<br />
[http://www.sketchup.com/ SketchUp]<br />
<br />
SketchUp Make 2013 now includes an Extension Warehouse, and you can install the import / export STL extension from there. The link is [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl here, or search for it in SketchUp Make] You will need Solid Inspector extension, which highlights any geometry that prevents a group being a solid group, as slicing programs make errors when the model isn't an outer shell. <br />
<br />
(deprecated) For details of plugins that will output STL files from Sketchup:<br />
see here<br />
* [http://www.cerebralmeltdown.com/cncstuff/stl/index.htm (cerebralmeltdown.com)]<br />
and here<br />
* [http://capolight.wordpress.com/2010/06/21/importing-exporting-and-making-manifold-objects-in-sketchup/ (capolight.wordpress.com)]<br />
and here a FREE one<br />
* [http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl (guitar-list.com) STL File Export Plugin]<br />
<br />
Also See:<br />
* [[Sketchup Modeling for 3d Printing]]<br />
* Youtube videos: [http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=SketchUp SketchUp]<br />
<br />
====SolidWorks====<br />
<br />
SolidWorks is one of the most popular closed-source CAD programs. The parts on the Prusa Mendel were designed using this software. It is owned by Dessault Systems which also makes Catia. An educational version of Solidworks is available for about 200 bucks I believe.<br />
<br />
http://www.solidworks.com<br />
<br />
==== Tinkercad ====<br />
<br />
[http://tinkercad.com Tinkercad] - a simple but effective online modelling tool. Useful for quickly creating prototypes.<br />
Specifically designed for 3D printers like RepRap.<br />
<br />
====Zbrush====<br />
<br />
Paid-for digital sculpting application<br />
<br />
http://pixologic.com/zbrush/<br />
<br />
==Software for dealing with STL files ==<br />
<br />
===Open-source software===<br />
<br />
====MeshLab====<br />
<br />
An open source, portable, and extensible system for the processing and editing of unstructured 3D triangular meshes. It also has an as yet unexploited object slicing routine which is extremely quick.<br />
<br />
[http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ MeshLab]<br />
<br />
====Skeinforge====<br />
<br />
Converts STL files to Gcodes. Is included with [[ReplicatorG]]. Horribly ugly user interface. It looks like someone used a shotgun loaded with buttons. Works slow, but has many options and is reliable<br />
<br />
====Slic3r====<br />
<br />
Converts STL files to Gcodes. 100 times faster than skeinforge, but still great gcode output. relatively new. see: [[Slic3r]] and http://slic3r.org/<br />
<br />
====Repsnapper====<br />
[[Repsnapper]] is a Slicer completely written in C++. With 3D preview.<br />
<br />
<br />
====Cura====<br />
<br />
[[Cura]], Slicer and GCode sender in one. Tries to be a single solution software where different parts can be used without depending on the other.<br />
<br />
====ConvertSTL====<br />
<br />
A ruby script that converts STL files between ASCII and binary encoding. https://github.com/cmpolis/convertSTL<br />
<br />
====IVCON====<br />
<br />
IVCON is a command-line C++ program for 3D graphics file conversion which reads and writes a variety of 3D graphics file formats, including STL, converting from one to the other.<br />
http://people.sc.fsu.edu/~jburkardt/cpp_src/ivcon/ivcon.html<br />
<br />
=== Closed-source ===<br />
<br />
====netfabb Studio====<br />
<br />
A tool for repairing and manipulations of STL files. <br />
<br />
netfabb Studio is free, but not open source. It now available for Windows, Mac and Linux. The free version of which can be found here: [http://www.netfabb.com/basic.php].<br />
<br />
netfabb Studio is software tailored for additive fabrication, rapid prototyping and 3D printing. It includes the ability of viewing, editing, repairing and analyzing stl-files or slice-based files in various formats.<br />
<br />
[http://www.netfabb.com/ netfabb Studio]<br />
<br />
====CraftWare====<br />
<br />
Completely free fast 3D object slicer with user friendly UI.<br />
Nice GCODE viewer which understands other slicers' dialect.<br />
Window 7+, Mac OSX<br />
<br />
http://www.craftunique.com/craftware<br />
<br />
http://www.craftunique.com/forums<br />
<br />
====Kisslicer====<br />
<br />
STL to G-code for additive extrusion printing.<br />
<br />
Window, Mac, Linux, FreeBSD<br />
<br />
http://kisslicer.com/<br />
<br />
http://kisslicer.com/forum/index.php<br />
<br />
<br />
====MeshMixer====<br />
<br />
Autodesk MeshMixer is a program that imports, manipulates, and converts 3D meshes. One of its more useful features is the "Analysis" tool, which shows areas of a mesh that could cause problems for 3D printing. It also provides a simple repair tool that fixes some of these problems. Be careful with the "Autorepair All" feature however, since it sometimes removes large portions of a part. It also has integration with the Autodesk 3D print utility to allow printing directly from the program (assuming a compatible printer).<br />
<br />
MeshMixer is free to download and use, and it runs on Windows and OSX.<br />
<br />
http://www.autodeskresearch.com/projects/meshmixer<br />
<br />
http://www.meshmixer.com/<br />
<br />
====Simplify3D====<br />
<br />
Simplify3D is an all-in-one software suite for 3D printing. <br><br />
<br />
Import and manipulate geometry<br><br />
Identify and repair common mesh problems<br><br />
Apply different print settings to different models in the same print build<br><br />
Apply different print settings to different height regions of a single model<br><br />
User customizable support - click to specify locations to add or remove support structures<br><br />
Slice files; generate G-Code (RepRap Style Firmware) or .x3g (MakerBot Style Firmware) instructions <br><br />
Animated previewer to view G-Code layer by layer or line by line<br><br />
Manually control 3D printer<br><br />
Print via USB or save toolpaths to SD Card<br><br />
<br />
A number of YouTube videos explain the software and features through both company-created tutorials and independent reviews. Simplify3D Software works on Windows, Mac, Linux.<br />
<br />
==== Creation Workshop ====<br />
<br />
[[Creation Workshop]] is slicer and DLP control software for wet (liquid stereolithography) and dry (powder) 3D printing.<br />
<br />
==== nanoDLP ====<br />
<br />
[http://www.nanodlp.com/ nanoDLP] is a freeware Raspberry Pi based DLP control software for liquid stereolithography 3D printing. <br />
<br />
==Software for sending G-code to the printer ==<br />
See [[CAM Toolchains#RepRap Drivers]].<br />
<br />
==Software for reading printer status ==<br />
<br />
==CAD software for electronics==<br />
<br />
===Open-source software===<br />
<br />
====gEDA/gaf====<br />
<br />
A full GPL'd suite and toolkit of Electronic Design Automation tools. These tools are used for electrical circuit design, schematic capture, simulation, prototyping, and production. Unlimited board size, unlimited number of layers, autorouter available.<br />
<br />
Binaries available for Debian/Ubuntu (package manager), SUSE, Mac OS X and [http://bibo.iqo.uni-hannover.de/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=english:geda_for_ms-windows Windows].<br />
<br />
[http://www.gpleda.org/index.html gEDA] [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GEDA Wikipedia]<br />
<br />
See also: A [[Generation_7_Electronics#Typical_Work_Loop_with_gEDA|typical work loop with gEDA]].<br />
<br />
====KiCad====<br />
: ''main article: [[KiCad]]''<br />
<br />
[[KiCad]] is an open source (GPL) software for the creation of electronic schematic diagrams and printed circuit board artwork. Users are making complex boards with it, as boards of 4 layers or more, with ARM microcontrollers running at 450MHz.<br />
<br />
KiCad runs on Linux, Windows or Mac. It is available on Linux Ubuntu repositories ("app store") meaning that it can be installed with one mouse click.<br />
(The KiCad 3D view uses [[#Wings3D]]).<br />
<br />
* official site: http://www.kicad-pcb.org/<br />
<br />
====Gerbv====<br />
<br />
An open-source (ODV) program for displaying Gerber files. Useful for checking.<br />
<br />
[http://gerbv.gpleda.org Gerbv]<br />
<br />
====Stripboard Designer 1.0====<br />
<br />
Open source (BSD) app written in freeware Visual Basic 2008 Express for Wintel machines<br />
<br />
[http://3dreplicators.com/New%20Front%20Page/Documentation/Tools/Stripboard%20designer.htm Stripboard Designer 1.0]<br />
<br />
====Stripes====<br />
<br />
Open source (GPL) version of Stripboard Designer written by Julian Skidmore in Java<br />
<br />
[http://sites.google.com/site/libby8dev/stripes Stripes]<br />
<br />
====DIY Layout Creator====<br />
<br />
DIYLC is an easy to use, yet powerful open source (GPL) multiplatform (Java) software for creating stripboard and universal board designs.<br />
<br />
[http://code.google.com/p/diy-layout-creator DIYLC]<br />
<br />
===Closed-source===<br />
<br />
====Eagle====<br />
<br />
Proprietary circuit-diagram and PCB design system with a slightly reduced-capabilities freeware version. It includes an autorouter for PCB creation. This is the package that has been used to design the majority of the RepRap electronics. It is also used to design the open-source [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino microcontroller], derivatives of which are used in RepRap. It runs on Linux, Windows or Mac.<br />
<br />
[http://www.cadsoft.de Eagle]<br />
<br />
== Software compilations ==<br />
<br />
=== Meikian Live ===<br />
<br />
[[Meikian Live]] <sup>(abandoned development)</sup> is a GNU/Linux live distribution intended to all the [[RepRap]] users and developers. Based on [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], it includes most of the free (as in ''freedom'') software, useful links and other related stuff you use on a day to day as a [[About#Glossary|reprapper]].<br />
<br />
== Further reading ==<br />
<br />
You can help:<br />
go through the<br />
[http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?12,13723 "AoI Alternatives"] thread<br />
and add at least a brief mention of packages mentioned there but not yet listed on this page:<br />
avoCADo, MLCad, CollabCAD, etc.<br />
<br />
<br />
* [[ZornStrap]] mentions more CAD and FEM and CFD software tools.<br />
* [http://opencircuits.com/stripboard "OpenCircuits: stripboard"] has more specific details on designing boards with stripboard.<br />
* [http://opencircuits.com/software_tool "OpenCircuits: software tool"] has a huge list of software tools for electronics: schematic capture tools, circuit simulation tools, custom PCB layout tools, autorouters, etc.<br />
* [[UsefulLinks]]<br />
* [http://blog.thingiverse.com/2009/11/06/in-which-openscad-wins-me-over/ Endorsement]<br />
<br />
[[Category:3D model manufacturing software| ]]<br />
[[Category:3D model manufacturing| ]]<br />
[[Category:Software| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Meikian_Live/es&diff=178767Meikian Live/es2017-03-16T12:53:25Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Change development status: working -> abandoned</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Meikian Live}}<br />
<br />
{{Warning|El desarrollo de Meikian [https://groups.google.com/d/msg/meikian/jDcVL0ow3-4/hR9RMqSLAQAJ ha sido abandonado]. Esta página sirve únicamente como referencia histórica.}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Meikian Live<br />
|version = 1.1<br />
|status = abandoned<br />
|image = Meikian Live - Logo.png<br />
|description = Debian para makers<br />
|license = [[GPL]] (véase [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/develop/licenses.html licencias])<br />
|author = CtemesCW<br />
|reprap = Proyecto Clone Wars<br />
|categories = {{tag|Software/es}}<br />
|url = [https://web.archive.org/web/20160315190545/http://meikian.eu/index-es.html Meikian Live]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Meikian Live''' (antes llamada ''CWLive'') es una distribución ''«live»'' de GNU/Linux centrada inicialmente en la comunidad del [[Proyecto Clone Wars]], pero dirigida a todos los usuarios y desarrolladores [[RepRap]]. Basada en [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], incluye la mayoría de {{tag|software/es}}, {{tag|firmware/es}}, enlaces útiles y demás material relacionado que se suele emplear en el día a día como ''«maker»''.<br />
<br />
== Aplicaciones ==<br />
<br />
* Impresión 3D <br />
** [[Cura]]<br />
** [[OctoPrint]]<br />
** [[Pronterface]]<br />
** [[RepSnapper]]<br />
** [[Skeinforge]]<br />
** [[Slic3r]]<br />
* Escaneado 3D<br />
** [[Horus]]<br />
* CNC<br />
** [[CNCGcodeController|CNC Gcode Controller]]<br />
** [[PCB_Milling#FlatCAM|FlatCAM]]<br />
** [https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender Universal G-Code Sender]<br />
* Desarrollo<br />
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]<br />
** [https://wiki.gnome.org/Apps/Gitg/ gitg]<br />
** [https://processing.org/ Processing]<br />
* Educación<br />
** [http://s4a.cat/ S4A]<br />
** [http://scratch.mit.edu/ Scratch]<br />
** [http://www.visualino.net/ Visualino]<br />
* Electrónica<br />
** [http://fritzing.org/ Fritzing]<br />
** [http://geda-project.org/ gEDA]<br />
** [[KiCad]]<br />
* Gráficos 2D<br />
** [http://gimp.org/ GIMP]<br />
** [http://inkscape.org/ Inskcape]<br />
** [http://librecad.org/ LibreCAD]<br />
* Gráficos 3D<br />
** [http://blender.org/ Blender]<br />
** [[FreeCAD]]<br />
** [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab]<br />
** [[OpenSCAD]]<br />
** [http://dkobozev.github.io/tatlin/ Tatlin]<br />
** [http://wings3d.com/ Wings3D]<br />
<br />
== Galería ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=225px perrow=3><br />
File:Meikian Live - Applications.png|Aplicaciones<br />
File:Meikian Live - Desktop.png|Escritorio<br />
File:Meikian Live - Boot Menu.png|Menú de arranque<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Enlaces externos ==<br />
<br />
* [http://meikian.eu/index-es.html Sitio web] <sup>(enlace roto: consulta [https://web.archive.org/web/20160315190545/http://meikian.eu/index-es.html])</sup><br />
* [http://docs.meikian.eu/es/latest/ Documentación] <sup>(enlace roto: consulta [https://meikian-live.readthedocs.io/es/latest/])</sup><br />
* [https://github.com/ctemescw/meikian-dev Desarrollo]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Meikian_Live&diff=178766Meikian Live2017-03-16T12:48:31Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* External links */ Fix home page link</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Meikian Live}}<br />
<br />
{{Warning|Meikian development [https://groups.google.com/d/msg/meikian/jDcVL0ow3-4/hR9RMqSLAQAJ has been abandoned]. This page is only for historical reference.}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Meikian Live<br />
|version = 1.1<br />
|status = abandoned<br />
|image = Meikian Live - Logo.png<br />
|description = Debian for makers<br />
|license = [[GPL]] (see [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/develop/licenses.html licenses])<br />
|author = CtemesCW<br />
|reprap = Proyecto Clone Wars<br />
|categories = {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}<br />
|url = [https://web.archive.org/web/20160307205502/http://meikian.eu/ Meikian Live]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Meikian Live''' (formely named ''CWLive'') is a GNU/Linux live distribution initially focused on [[Proyecto Clone Wars|Clone Wars]] community, but intended to all the [[RepRap]] users and developers. Based on [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], it includes most of the {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}, useful links and other related stuff you can use on a day to day as a [[About#Glossary|reprapper]].<br />
<br />
== Applications ==<br />
<br />
* 3D Printing <br />
** [[Cura]]<br />
** [[OctoPrint]]<br />
** [[Pronterface]]<br />
** [[RepSnapper]]<br />
** [[Skeinforge]]<br />
** [[Slic3r]]<br />
* 3D Scanning<br />
** [[Horus]]<br />
* CNC<br />
** [[CNCGcodeController|CNC Gcode Controller]]<br />
** [[PCB_Milling#FlatCAM|FlatCAM]]<br />
** [https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender Universal G-Code Sender]<br />
* Development<br />
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]<br />
** [https://wiki.gnome.org/Apps/Gitg/ gitg]<br />
** [https://processing.org/ Processing]<br />
* Education<br />
** [http://s4a.cat/ S4A]<br />
** [http://scratch.mit.edu/ Scratch]<br />
** [http://www.visualino.net/ Visualino]<br />
* Electronics<br />
** [http://fritzing.org/ Fritzing]<br />
** [http://geda-project.org/ gEDA]<br />
** [[KiCad]]<br />
* Graphics 2D<br />
** [http://gimp.org/ GIMP]<br />
** [http://inkscape.org/ Inskcape]<br />
** [http://librecad.org/ LibreCAD]<br />
* Graphics 3D<br />
** [http://blender.org/ Blender]<br />
** [[FreeCAD]]<br />
** [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab]<br />
** [[OpenSCAD]]<br />
** [http://dkobozev.github.io/tatlin/ Tatlin]<br />
** [http://wings3d.com/ Wings3D]<br />
<br />
== Gallery ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=225px perrow=3><br />
File:Meikian Live - Applications.png|Applications<br />
File:Meikian Live - Desktop.png|Desktop<br />
File:Meikian Live - Boot Menu.png|Boot Menu<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
<br />
* [http://meikian.eu/ Home] <sup>(broken link: see [https://web.archive.org/web/20160307205502/http://meikian.eu/])<br />
* [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/latest/ Documentation] <sup>(broken link: see [https://meikian-live.readthedocs.io/])</sup><br />
* [https://github.com/ctemescw/meikian-dev Development]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Meikian_Live&diff=178765Meikian Live2017-03-16T12:47:30Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix external link in Development template</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Meikian Live}}<br />
<br />
{{Warning|Meikian development [https://groups.google.com/d/msg/meikian/jDcVL0ow3-4/hR9RMqSLAQAJ has been abandoned]. This page is only for historical reference.}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Meikian Live<br />
|version = 1.1<br />
|status = abandoned<br />
|image = Meikian Live - Logo.png<br />
|description = Debian for makers<br />
|license = [[GPL]] (see [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/develop/licenses.html licenses])<br />
|author = CtemesCW<br />
|reprap = Proyecto Clone Wars<br />
|categories = {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}<br />
|url = [https://web.archive.org/web/20160307205502/http://meikian.eu/ Meikian Live]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Meikian Live''' (formely named ''CWLive'') is a GNU/Linux live distribution initially focused on [[Proyecto Clone Wars|Clone Wars]] community, but intended to all the [[RepRap]] users and developers. Based on [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], it includes most of the {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}, useful links and other related stuff you can use on a day to day as a [[About#Glossary|reprapper]].<br />
<br />
== Applications ==<br />
<br />
* 3D Printing <br />
** [[Cura]]<br />
** [[OctoPrint]]<br />
** [[Pronterface]]<br />
** [[RepSnapper]]<br />
** [[Skeinforge]]<br />
** [[Slic3r]]<br />
* 3D Scanning<br />
** [[Horus]]<br />
* CNC<br />
** [[CNCGcodeController|CNC Gcode Controller]]<br />
** [[PCB_Milling#FlatCAM|FlatCAM]]<br />
** [https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender Universal G-Code Sender]<br />
* Development<br />
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]<br />
** [https://wiki.gnome.org/Apps/Gitg/ gitg]<br />
** [https://processing.org/ Processing]<br />
* Education<br />
** [http://s4a.cat/ S4A]<br />
** [http://scratch.mit.edu/ Scratch]<br />
** [http://www.visualino.net/ Visualino]<br />
* Electronics<br />
** [http://fritzing.org/ Fritzing]<br />
** [http://geda-project.org/ gEDA]<br />
** [[KiCad]]<br />
* Graphics 2D<br />
** [http://gimp.org/ GIMP]<br />
** [http://inkscape.org/ Inskcape]<br />
** [http://librecad.org/ LibreCAD]<br />
* Graphics 3D<br />
** [http://blender.org/ Blender]<br />
** [[FreeCAD]]<br />
** [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab]<br />
** [[OpenSCAD]]<br />
** [http://dkobozev.github.io/tatlin/ Tatlin]<br />
** [http://wings3d.com/ Wings3D]<br />
<br />
== Gallery ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=225px perrow=3><br />
File:Meikian Live - Applications.png|Applications<br />
File:Meikian Live - Desktop.png|Desktop<br />
File:Meikian Live - Boot Menu.png|Boot Menu<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
<br />
* [http://meikian.eu/ Home] <sup>(broken link: see https://web.archive.org/web/*/meikian.eu)<br />
* [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/latest/ Documentation] <sup>(broken link: see https://meikian-live.readthedocs.io)</sup><br />
* [https://github.com/ctemescw/meikian-dev Development]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Meikian_Live&diff=178764Meikian Live2017-03-16T12:43:43Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* External links */ Show alternatives for broken links</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Meikian Live}}<br />
<br />
{{Warning|Meikian development [https://groups.google.com/d/msg/meikian/jDcVL0ow3-4/hR9RMqSLAQAJ has been abandoned]. This page is only for historical reference.}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Meikian Live<br />
|version = 1.1<br />
|status = abandoned<br />
|image = Meikian Live - Logo.png<br />
|description = Debian for makers<br />
|license = [[GPL]] (see [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/develop/licenses.html licenses])<br />
|author = CtemesCW<br />
|reprap = Proyecto Clone Wars<br />
|categories = {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}<br />
|url = [http://meikian.eu/ Meikian Live]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Meikian Live''' (formely named ''CWLive'') is a GNU/Linux live distribution initially focused on [[Proyecto Clone Wars|Clone Wars]] community, but intended to all the [[RepRap]] users and developers. Based on [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], it includes most of the {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}, useful links and other related stuff you can use on a day to day as a [[About#Glossary|reprapper]].<br />
<br />
== Applications ==<br />
<br />
* 3D Printing <br />
** [[Cura]]<br />
** [[OctoPrint]]<br />
** [[Pronterface]]<br />
** [[RepSnapper]]<br />
** [[Skeinforge]]<br />
** [[Slic3r]]<br />
* 3D Scanning<br />
** [[Horus]]<br />
* CNC<br />
** [[CNCGcodeController|CNC Gcode Controller]]<br />
** [[PCB_Milling#FlatCAM|FlatCAM]]<br />
** [https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender Universal G-Code Sender]<br />
* Development<br />
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]<br />
** [https://wiki.gnome.org/Apps/Gitg/ gitg]<br />
** [https://processing.org/ Processing]<br />
* Education<br />
** [http://s4a.cat/ S4A]<br />
** [http://scratch.mit.edu/ Scratch]<br />
** [http://www.visualino.net/ Visualino]<br />
* Electronics<br />
** [http://fritzing.org/ Fritzing]<br />
** [http://geda-project.org/ gEDA]<br />
** [[KiCad]]<br />
* Graphics 2D<br />
** [http://gimp.org/ GIMP]<br />
** [http://inkscape.org/ Inskcape]<br />
** [http://librecad.org/ LibreCAD]<br />
* Graphics 3D<br />
** [http://blender.org/ Blender]<br />
** [[FreeCAD]]<br />
** [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab]<br />
** [[OpenSCAD]]<br />
** [http://dkobozev.github.io/tatlin/ Tatlin]<br />
** [http://wings3d.com/ Wings3D]<br />
<br />
== Gallery ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=225px perrow=3><br />
File:Meikian Live - Applications.png|Applications<br />
File:Meikian Live - Desktop.png|Desktop<br />
File:Meikian Live - Boot Menu.png|Boot Menu<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
<br />
* [http://meikian.eu/ Home] <sup>(broken link: see https://web.archive.org/web/*/meikian.eu)<br />
* [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/latest/ Documentation] <sup>(broken link: see https://meikian-live.readthedocs.io)</sup><br />
* [https://github.com/ctemescw/meikian-dev Development]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Meikian_Live&diff=178763Meikian Live2017-03-16T12:03:54Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Change development status: working -> abandoned</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Meikian Live}}<br />
<br />
{{Warning|Meikian development [https://groups.google.com/d/msg/meikian/jDcVL0ow3-4/hR9RMqSLAQAJ has been abandoned]. This page is only for historical reference.}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Meikian Live<br />
|version = 1.1<br />
|status = abandoned<br />
|image = Meikian Live - Logo.png<br />
|description = Debian for makers<br />
|license = [[GPL]] (see [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/develop/licenses.html licenses])<br />
|author = CtemesCW<br />
|reprap = Proyecto Clone Wars<br />
|categories = {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}<br />
|url = [http://meikian.eu/ Meikian Live]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Meikian Live''' (formely named ''CWLive'') is a GNU/Linux live distribution initially focused on [[Proyecto Clone Wars|Clone Wars]] community, but intended to all the [[RepRap]] users and developers. Based on [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], it includes most of the {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}, useful links and other related stuff you can use on a day to day as a [[About#Glossary|reprapper]].<br />
<br />
== Applications ==<br />
<br />
* 3D Printing <br />
** [[Cura]]<br />
** [[OctoPrint]]<br />
** [[Pronterface]]<br />
** [[RepSnapper]]<br />
** [[Skeinforge]]<br />
** [[Slic3r]]<br />
* 3D Scanning<br />
** [[Horus]]<br />
* CNC<br />
** [[CNCGcodeController|CNC Gcode Controller]]<br />
** [[PCB_Milling#FlatCAM|FlatCAM]]<br />
** [https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender Universal G-Code Sender]<br />
* Development<br />
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]<br />
** [https://wiki.gnome.org/Apps/Gitg/ gitg]<br />
** [https://processing.org/ Processing]<br />
* Education<br />
** [http://s4a.cat/ S4A]<br />
** [http://scratch.mit.edu/ Scratch]<br />
** [http://www.visualino.net/ Visualino]<br />
* Electronics<br />
** [http://fritzing.org/ Fritzing]<br />
** [http://geda-project.org/ gEDA]<br />
** [[KiCad]]<br />
* Graphics 2D<br />
** [http://gimp.org/ GIMP]<br />
** [http://inkscape.org/ Inskcape]<br />
** [http://librecad.org/ LibreCAD]<br />
* Graphics 3D<br />
** [http://blender.org/ Blender]<br />
** [[FreeCAD]]<br />
** [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab]<br />
** [[OpenSCAD]]<br />
** [http://dkobozev.github.io/tatlin/ Tatlin]<br />
** [http://wings3d.com/ Wings3D]<br />
<br />
== Gallery ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=225px perrow=3><br />
File:Meikian Live - Applications.png|Applications<br />
File:Meikian Live - Desktop.png|Desktop<br />
File:Meikian Live - Boot Menu.png|Boot Menu<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
<br />
* [http://meikian.eu/ Home]<br />
* [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/latest/ Documentation]<br />
* [https://github.com/ctemescw/meikian-dev Development]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=FoldaRap_Build_Manual&diff=178642FoldaRap Build Manual2017-03-08T08:52:05Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Upkeep */ Add [Clog] reference and fix syntax</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Build manuals]]<br />
[[Category:Foldable RepRap]]<br />
{{Languages|FoldaRap Build Manual}}<br />
{{RepRapNavigation|name=FoldaRap}}<br />
<br />
[[File:Foldarap2-5.png|thumb|right|600px|FoldaRap 2.6]]<br />
<br />
== Previous versions ==<br />
<br />
The build manual for the previous versions are here :<br />
*[[FoldaRap1_Build_Manual|FoldaRap 1]]<br />
*[[FoldaRap2_Build_Manual|FoldaRap 2]]<br />
*[[FoldaRap2.1_Build_Manual|FoldaRap 2.1]]<br />
*[[FoldaRap2.5_Build_Manual|FoldaRap 2.5]]<br />
<br />
== Tools ==<br />
<br />
=== Included tools ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=5 widths= 200px heights= 150px><br />
1-5-hexagonal-wrench.jpg|1.5 mm hexagonal wrench<br />
2-0-hexagonal-wrench.jpg|2.0 mm hexagonal wrench<br />
2-5-hexagonal-wrench.jpg|2.5 mm hexagonal wrench<br />
File-1.jpg|1 file<br />
Brucelles.jpg|1 brucelles<br />
Thermal-grease.jpg|thermal grease<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Tools to provide === <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=5 widths= 200px heights= 150px><br />
Cross-head-screwdriver-1.jpg|1 cross-head screwdriver<br />
Flat-screwdriver-1.jpg|1 flat screwdriver<br />
Flat-nose-pliers-1.jpg|flat-nose pliers<br />
Wrench-7-0.jpg|7.0 mm wrench<br />
Cutting-pliers-1.jpg|cutting pliers<br />
Lighter-1.jpg|1 lighter<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Bonus tools ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=5 widths= 200px heights= 150px><br />
Automatic-stripper.jpg|1 automatic stripper<br />
Soldering-iron-1.jpg|1 soldering iron<br />
Solder-wire-1.jpg|<br />
Oil-pen.jpg|1 oil pen<br />
Drill-holder.jpg|1 drill-holder + drills<br />
Frein-filet.jpg|<br />
Calliper.jpg|1 calliper<br />
Width-gauges.jpg|width gauges<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== General tips ==<br />
<br />
*Read the whole manual before starting to get an overview of the building steps (total: 12 hours of assembly).<br />
*The FoldaRap is made of a base frame and several sub-assemblies. Some can be done in parallel to save time, gather your friends and establish a new building time record !<br />
*Work on a cutting mat if you have one: it will protect your table plus they often show a millimetre grid that can be useful to check the bolts length (with experience you will recognize them by looking or holding one).<br />
*Place your mouse over a picture to know the element name.<br />
*Do not hesitate to have a look at the 3D model in SketchUp (before/during the build): it will show you the folded/unfolded state of the machine and you can play around with it.<br />
<br />
=== Printed parts ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=5 widths=200px heights=150px><br />
Foot-front-left.png|foot front left<br />
Foot-front-rightt.png|foot front right<br />
Foot-front-left.png|foot rear right<br />
Foot-front-rightt.png|foot rear left<br />
FR2-5-hinge-inner-left.png|hinge inner left<br />
FR2-5-hinge-inner-right.png|hinge inner right<br />
FR2-5-hinge-outer-left.png|hinge outer left<br />
FR2-5-hinge-outer-right.png|hinge outer right<br />
FR2-5-rod-idler-front-left.png|rod-idler front left<br />
FR2-5-rod-idler-front-right.png|rod-idler front right<br />
FR2-5-rod-idler-front-left.png|rod-idler rear right<br />
FR2-5-rod-idler-front-right.png|rod-idler rear left<br />
FR2-5-y-idler.png|y-idler<br />
FR2-5-y-motor.png|y-motor<br />
FR2-5-z-motor-left.png|z-motor left<br />
FR2-5-z-motor-right.png|z-motor right<br />
FR2-5-z-slider-left.png|z-slider left<br />
FR2-5-z-slider-right.png|z-slider right<br />
FR2-5-z-top-left.png|z-top left<br />
FR2-5-z-top-right.png|z-top right<br />
M22-x-slider.png|x-slider<br />
M22-hotend-holder.png|hotend-holder<br />
M3-0-extruder-corps.png|'''x1''' extruder 1<br />
M3-0-extruder-levier.png|'''x1''' extruder 2<br />
M3-0-extruder-capot1.png|'''x1''' extruder 3<br />
FR2-5-x-belt-end.png|x-belt ends<br />
FR2-5-handle.png|handle<br />
FR2-5-spool-holder.png|spool-holder<br />
FR2-5-hinge-block-left.png|hinge-block left <br />
FR2-5-hinge-block-right.png|hinge-block right<br />
FR2-5-y-belt-clamp.png|y belt clamp<br />
FR2-5-bed-adjuster.png|bed adjuster<br />
FR2-5-board-mount-minitronics.png|board mounts minitronics <br />
FR2-5-y-endstop-holder.png|y-endstop-holder<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Lasercut parts ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=5 widths=200px heights=150px><br />
FR2-5-underplate.png|underplate<br />
FR2-5-plug-plate.png|plug-plate<br />
FR2-5-y-carriage.png|y-carriage<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Screws & bolts box ===<br />
<br />
The screws and bolts are arranged in their box according to the assembly steps to simplify their identification.<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 800px heights= 600px><br />
FR26-boite-visserie.png|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Use environment ===<br />
<br />
*Dry environment<br />
*Room temperature (between 5°C and 35°C)<br />
*Protected from dust<br />
*On flat surfaces<br />
*Protected from inflammable substances<br />
*Apart from other electronic devices<br />
A use out of these conditions can damage your 3D-printer...<br />
<br />
=== Insert a T-nut ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
T-nut_insertion.jpg|tightening torque: 2.5 N.m (+/- 5%): use the small side of the 2.5 hexagonal wrench to get the ideal torque<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 1/20 - Base Frame (30 min) ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Foot-front-left.png|150px]] '''x1''' foot front left<br />
[[File:Foot-front-rightt.png|150px]] '''x1''' foot front right<br />
[[File:20x20_200mm.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' 200mm profile <br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x4''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x4''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Base-frame-1.jpg|<br />
Base-frame-2.jpg|position the aluminium profiles in the front feet...<br />
Base-frame-3.jpg|... and push them completely so that there is no more space between the metal parts and the printed parts<br />
Base-frame-4.jpg|position the T-nuts in the groove of the aluminium profiles and push them under the holes with the 2.5 hexagonal wrench<br />
Base-frame-5.jpg|screw the M4x8 in the T-nuts through the printed parts with the 2.5 hexagonal wrench: make sure that the T-nuts turn 90° and grab the aluminium profiles<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Foot-front-left.png|150px]] '''x1''' foot rear right<br />
[[File:Foot-front-rightt.png|150px]] '''x1''' foot rear left<br />
[[File:20x20_200mm.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' 200mm profile <br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x4''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x4''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Base-frame-6.jpg|start again with the rear feet<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-hinge-inner-left.png|150px]] '''x1''' hinge inner left <br />
[[File:FR2-5-hinge-inner-right.png|150px]] '''x1''' hinge inner right<br />
[[File:20x20_300mm.jpg|200px]] '''x4''' 300mm profile <br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x10''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x10''' T-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Base-frame-7.jpg|position the inner hinges in the middle of the lower 300mm aluminum profiles (printed part oriented inside the machine) and lock them with T-nuts and M4x8<br />
Base-frame-8.jpg|finish the base frame by locking the 300mm profiles in the feet with the T-nuts and M4x8 (make sure that their is no space between the 200mm and the 300mm profiles)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 2/20 - Y-axis (30 min) ==<br />
<br />
=== Y-idler ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-y-idler.png|150px]] '''x1''' y-idler<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x1''' T-nut <br />
[[File:M3x25TCHC.jpg|150px]] '''x1''' M3x20<br />
[[File:M3_washer.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' M3 washer<br />
[[File:603zz.png|100px]] '''x2''' 603zz bearing<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' M3 nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Y-idler-1.jpg|<br />
Y-idler-2.jpg|position the T-nut and the M4x8 on the y-idler without tightening<br />
Y-idler-3.jpg|<br />
Y-idler-4.jpg|place the M3 nut in the y-idler imprint <br />
Y-idler-5.jpg|pass the M3x20 through the M3 washer and the bearings...<br />
Y-idler-6.jpg|... and screw it in the M3 nut <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Y-motor ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-y-motor.png|150px]] '''x1''' y-motor<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x1''' T-nut <br />
[[File:Nema14.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' nema 14<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|150px]] '''x2''' M3x8<br />
[[File:Timing_pulley2.png|150px]] '''x1''' pulley<br />
[[File:FRM-screw_threads_x3.png|50px]] '''x2''' grub screw <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Y-motor-1.jpg|position the T-nut and the M4x8 on the y-motor without tightening<br />
Y-motor-2.jpg|fix the motor on the printed part with the M3x8 (be careful with the connector orientation)<br />
Y-motor-3.jpg|insert the grib screws in the pulley with the 1.5 hexagonal wrench<br />
Y-motor-4.jpg|position the pulley on the motor shaft <br />
FoldaRap2_Y-motor_pulley_2.jpg|make sure that the flange is aligned with the printed part...<br />
Y-motor-5.jpg|... and lock the pulley... <br />
Y-motor-6.jpg|... with one grub screw on the flat part of the shaft<br />
Y-motor-7.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Y-idler & motor ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Y-motor-idler-1a.png|position the y-idler (without locking it) the same side as the higher part of the inner hinges and the y-motor (without locking it) on the opposite side<br />
Y-motor-idler-3a.png|the screw is oriented downward for the y-motor...<br />
Y-motor-idler-2a.png|... and from the inside for the y-idler<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Rod-idler ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-rod-idler-front-left.png|150px]] '''x4''' rod-idler<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x4''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x4''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Y-rod-holder-1.jpg|position the T-nuts and the M4x8 on the printed parts without tightening<br />
Y-rod-holder-3.jpg|position the rod-idlers on both sides of the y-idler and against the aluminum profile and tighten; push the y-idler against the rod-idler and lock it on the aluminum profile<br />
Y-rod-holder-2.jpg|position the rod-idlers on both sides of the y-motor and against the aluminum profile and tighten<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 3/20 - Plug + switch (45 min) ==<br />
<br />
=== Cable 1 ===<br />
<br />
[[File:6,35mm-faston-ferule.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' 4,8mm ferrule (+ insulation)<br />
[[File:6,35mm-faston-ferule.jpg|150px]] '''x1''' 6,35mm ferrule (+ insulation)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Plug-1.jpg|cut a 10 cm red wire and strip the extremities<br />
Plug-2.jpg|don't forget to place the insulations before the ferrules (pay attention to the insulations size)<br />
Plug-3.jpg|crimp firmly a 4,8 mm ferrule on one side and a 6,35mm ferrule on the other side<br />
Plug-4.jpg|to crimp a ferrule on a cable: press 2 strips on the cable's insulation and press 2 strips on the cable's metal wires<br />
Plug-5.jpg|bring the insulations over the ferrules<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Cable 2 ===<br />
<br />
[[File:6,35mm-faston-ferule.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' 4,8mm ferrule (+ insulation)<br />
[[File:6,35mm-faston-ferule.jpg|150px]] '''x1''' 6,35mm ferrule (+ insulation)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Plug-6.jpg|cut a 10 cm black wire and strip the extremities<br />
Plug-7.jpg|crimp firmly a 4,8mm ferrule on one side and a 6,35mm ferrule on the other side<br />
Plug-8.jpg|bring the insulations over the ferrules <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Cable 3 ===<br />
<br />
[[File:6,35mm-faston-ferule.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' 4,8mm ferrule (+ insulation)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Plug-9.jpg|take the 25 cm black wire and strip the extremities<br />
Plug-10.jpg|crimp firmly a 4,8mm ferrule on one side and bring the insulation over the ferrule<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Cable 4 ===<br />
<br />
[[File:6,35mm-faston-ferule.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' 4,8mm ferrule (+ insulation)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Plug-11.jpg|take the 25 cm red wire and strip the extremities<br />
Plug-12.jpg|crimp firmly a 4,8mm ferrule on one side and bring the insulation over the ferrule <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Cable 5 ===<br />
<br />
[[File:6,35mm-faston-ferule.jpg|150px]] '''x1''' 6,35mm ferrule (+ insulation)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Plug-13.jpg|take the 25 cm green wire and strip the extremities<br />
Plug-14.jpg|crimp firmly a 6,35mm ferrule on one side and bring the insulation over the ferrule <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Plug-plate ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-plug-plate.png|250px]] '''x1''' plug-plate<br />
[[File:C14_CEI_male-plug.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' plug<br />
[[File:Switch.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' switch<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|150px]] '''x2''' M3x8<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M3 nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Plug-15.jpg|<br />
Plug-16.jpg|<br />
Plug-17.jpg|<br />
Plug-18.jpg|push the switch completely through the plug-panel ("O" position oriented downward)<br />
Plug-19.jpg|<br />
Plug-20.jpg|<br />
Plug-21.jpg|<br />
Plug-22.jpg|<br />
Plug-23.jpg|<br />
Plug-24.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x4''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x4''' T-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Plug-25.jpg|<br />
Plug-26.jpg|fix the plug-panel the same side as the y-idler<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 4/20 - Underplate (20 min) ==<br />
<br />
=== Power supply fixing ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-underplate.png|250px]] '''x1''' underplate<br />
[[File:FRM-power-supply-150w.png|150px]] '''x1''' power supply<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|150px]] '''x2''' M3x8<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M3 nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Underplate-1.jpg|place the readable side of the underplate on the table<br />
Underplate-2.jpg|the terminal of the power supply is oriented downward<br />
Underplate-3.jpg|fix the power supply on the underplate with the screws and nuts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Underplate fixing ===<br />
<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x4''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x4''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Underplate-4.jpg|<br />
Underplate-5.jpg|<br />
Underplate-6.jpg|<br />
Underplate-7.jpg|unlock the inner hinges<br />
Underplate-8.jpg|push them against the underplate and lock them again<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Power supply wiring ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Underplate-9.jpg|<br />
Underplate-10.jpg|<br />
Underplate-11.jpg|<br />
Underplate-12.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 5/20 - Z-axis (1 hour) ==<br />
<br />
=== Z-motors (1/2) ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-z-motor-left.png|150px]] '''x1''' z-motor left<br />
[[File:FR2-5-z-motor-right.png|150px]] '''x1''' z-motor right<br />
[[File:20x20_300mm.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' 300mm profile <br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x2''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Z-motors-1.jpg|<br />
Z-motors-2.jpg|remove the support part of the z-motor parts with flat-nose pliers<br />
Z-motors-3.jpg|screw T-nuts and M4x8 in the printed parts (without tightening) <br />
Z-motors-4.jpg|place the z-motor parts on the aluminium profiles (without locking them)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Outer hinges ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-hinge-outer-left.png|150px]] '''x1''' hinge outer left<br />
[[File:FR2-5-hinge-outer-right.png|150px]] '''x1''' hinge outer right<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x2''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Outer-hinges-1.jpg|<br />
Outer-hinges-2.jpg|remove the support part of the z-motor parts with flat-nose pliers<br />
Outer-hinges-3.jpg|screw T-nuts and M4x8 in the printed parts (without tightening) <br />
Outer-hinges-4.jpg|position the outer hinges under the z-motor parts (be careful with the orientation)<br />
Outer-hinges-5.jpg|lock the outer hinges on the profiles: the bottom part of the aluminium profile and the bottom part of the outer hinge must be aligned <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Z-motors (2/2) ===<br />
<br />
[[File:Nema14.jpg|200px]] '''x2''' nema 14<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|150px]] '''x4''' M3x8<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Z-motors-5.jpg|push the z-motor parts against the outer hinges...<br />
Z-motors-6.jpg|... and lock them<br />
Z-motors-7.jpg|position the motors (be careful with the connector orientation)...<br />
Z-motors-8.jpg|... and fix them with M3x8<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Z-sliders ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-z-slider-left.png|200px]] '''x1''' Z-slider left<br />
[[File:FR2-5-z-slider-right.png|200px]] '''x1''' Z-slider right<br />
[[File:M3x30_countersunk-head.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' M3x30 countersunk<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Z-sliders-1.jpg|<br />
Z-sliders-2.jpg|<br />
Z-sliders-3.jpg|<br />
Z-sliders-4.jpg|<br />
Z-sliders-5.jpg|file the inside part of the z-sliders so that they slide easily (without play) on their profile <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Z-axis ===<br />
<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M3 nut<br />
[[File:M3x20.jpg|150px]] '''x2''' M3x20<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Z-axis-1.jpg|<br />
Z-axis-2.jpg|place the M3 nuts on the inner hinges...<br />
Z-axis-3.jpg|... and screw the outer hinges on the inner hinges with the M3x20<br />
Z-axis-4.jpg|the shape of the outer hinges fits with the shape of the inner hinges<br />
Z-axis-5.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x4''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x4''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Z-axis-6.jpg|raise the z-axis at 90°<br />
Z-axis-7.jpg|lock them on the base frame with M4x8 and T-nuts <br />
Z-axis-8.jpg|check the angle and adjust if necessary<br />
Z-axis-9.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 6/20 - X-axis (1 hour) ==<br />
<br />
[[File:M22-x-slider.png|200px]] '''x1''' x-carriage<br />
[[File:20x20_200mm.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' 200mm profile <br />
[[File:FRM-screw_threads_x3.png|50px]] '''x6''' grub screw<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-x-slider01.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider02.JPG| <br />
FR26-x-slider03.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider04.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Nema14.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' nema 14<br />
[[File:Timing_pulley2.png|150px]] '''x1''' pulley<br />
[[File:FRM-screw_threads_x3.png|50px]] '''x2''' grub screw<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR2-5-x-axis-5.jpg|<br />
FR2-5-x-axis-6.jpg|<br />
FR2-5-x-axis-7.jpg|<br />
FR26-x-slider05.JPG|<br />
Y-sliders_4.png|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:M3x30_countersunk-head.jpg|150px]] '''x4''' M3x30 (countersunk)<br />
[[File:603zz.png|100px]] '''x2''' 603zz bearing<br />
[[File:FRM-belt.png|200px]] '''x1''' 250mm belt<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-x-slider07.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider06.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider08.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider09.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider10.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider12.JPG|<br />
Y-sliders_9.png|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-x-belt-end.png|200px]] '''x2''' x-belt end<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x2''' T-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-x-slider14.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider13.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider15.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider16.JPG|<br />
FR26-x-slider17.JPG|<br />
Y-sliders_15.png|<br />
FR26-x-slider18.JPG|<br />
FR2-5-x-axis-22.jpg|<br />
FR26-x-slider19.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 7/20 - Hotend (1 hour) ==<br />
<br />
=== Heater block ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FRM-heater-block.png|150px]] '''x1''' heater block<br />
[[File:FRM-nozzle.png|150px]] '''x1''' nozzle<br />
[[File:FRM-barrel.png|150px]] '''x1''' barrel<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Mondrian3-0_187.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_188.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_189.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_190.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_191.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_192.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Heatsink ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FRM-hotend-heatsink.png|200px]] '''x1''' heatsink<br />
[[File:FRM-pneumatic-fitting-MA1203M5.png|100px]] '''x1''' pneumatic fitting<br />
[[File:FRM-PTFE-tube.png|250px]] '''x1''' PTFE tube (2-4 mm)<br />
[[File:FRM-screw_threads_x3.png|50px]] '''x1''' grub screw<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Mondrian3-0_193.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_194.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_195.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_196.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_197.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_198.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_199.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_200.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_201.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Thermistor ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FRM-thermistor.png|150px]] '''x1''' thermistor<br />
[[File:Mini-fit_fiche-femelle.jpg|150px]] '''x2''' female ferrule 2.54 mm <br />
[[File:2-pin.png|150px]] '''x1''' 2-pin casing<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Mondrian3-0_202.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_203.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_204.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_205.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_211.JPG| <br />
Mondrian3-0_209.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Cartridge heater ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FRM-cartridge-heater.png|250px]] '''x1''' cartridge heater<br />
[[File:FRM-screw_threads_x3.png|50px]] '''x1''' grub screw<br />
[[File:FRM-end-piece.png|150px]] '''x2''' cable terminal (1.5 mm)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Mondrian3-0_211.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_212.JPG|<br />
Mondrian3-0_213.JPG|<br />
Hotend-26.jpg|<br />
Hotend-27.jpg|<br />
Hotend-28.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Fan ===<br />
<br />
[[File:Fan404010.png|150px]] '''x1''' fan<br />
[[File:FRM-ferule.png|80px]] '''x2''' ferrule (1mm)<br />
[[File:FRM-heatshrink-tubing.png|150px]] '''x2''' heatshrink sleeve<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Hotend-29.jpg|<br />
Hotend-30.jpg|<br />
Hotend-31.jpg|<br />
Hotend-32.jpg|<br />
Hotend-33.jpg|<br />
Hotend-34.jpg|<br />
Hotend-35.jpg|<br />
Hotend-36.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-fan-railings.png|150px]] '''x1''' fan-grill<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|150px]] '''x4''' M3x16<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Hotend-37.jpg|<br />
Hotend-38.jpg|<br />
FR26-hotend-01.JPG|<br />
FR26-hotend-02.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Hotend holder ===<br />
<br />
[[File:M22-hotend-holder.png|150px]] '''x1''' hotend holder<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|150px]] '''x4''' M3x8<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-hotend-holder-01.JPG|<br />
FR26-hotend-holder-02.JPG|<br />
FR26-hotend-holder-03.JPG|<br />
FR26-hotend-holder-04.JPG|<br />
FR26-hotend-holder-05.JPG|<br />
FR26-hotend-03.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:M3x25TCHC.jpg|150px]] '''x2''' M3x25<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-hotend-holder-08.JPG|<br />
FR26-hotend-holder-09.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 8/20 - XZ-axis (1 hour) ==<br />
<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x2''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Xz-axis-1.jpg|place the x-axis between the z-sliders...<br />
Xz-axis-2.jpg|... and fix them together with M4x8 and T-nuts<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-z-top-left.png|200px]] '''x1''' z-top left<br />
[[File:FR2-5-z-top-right.png|200px]] '''x1''' z-top right<br />
[[File:20x20_200mm.jpg|200px]] '''x1''' 200mm profile <br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x2''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Xz-axis-3.jpg|add M4x8 and T-nuts on the z-tops<br />
Xz-axis-4.jpg|position the z-tops over the z-axis profiles (be careful with the orientation)<br />
Xz-axis-5.jpg|check through the hole of the printed parts if the profiles touch the bottom part of the z-tops <br />
Xz-axis-6.jpg|lock the z-tops<br />
Xz-axis-7.jpg|position a 200m profile between the z-tops<br />
Xz-axis-8.jpg|move the x-axis up against the z-tops... <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x4''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x4''' T-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Xz-axis-9.jpg|... and lock the 200mm aluminium profile<br />
Xz-axis-10.jpg|<br />
Xz-axis-11.jpg|make sure that the z-axis profiles are parallel amongst themselves by sliding the x-axis up and down (adjust the z-profiles if necessary by unlocking / relocking the 200mm profile between the z-tops)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-handle.png|150px]] '''x1''' handle<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M4x8 <br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x2''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Xz-axis-12.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Flexible-coupling-1.png|150px]] '''x1''' flexible coupling <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Xz-axis-13.jpg|<br />
Xz-axis-14.jpg|position the flexible coupling over the motor shaft and lock it on the flat part of the shaft with grub screws... <br />
Xz-axis-15.jpg|... so that the upper part of the flexible coupling is aligned with the upper part of the z-motor printed part<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:M5-nylon-nut.png|80px]] '''x2''' nylon nut<br />
[[File:230-235mm_threaded-rod.jpg|250px]] '''x1''' threaded rod<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Xz-axis-16.jpg|insert 2 nylon nuts in the z-sliders...<br />
Xz-axis-17.jpg|... and screw the threaded rod through them <br />
Xz-axis-18.jpg|make sure that there is NO PLAY between the nylon nuts and the z-sliders once the threaded rod are screwed (otherwise adjust the position of the nylon nuts in the printed part)<br />
Xz-axis-19.jpg|screw until it touches the motor shaft in the flexible coupling<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Flexible-coupling-1.png|150px]] '''x1''' flexible coupling <br />
[[File:M5-nylon-nut.png|80px]] '''x2''' nylon nut<br />
[[File:230-235mm_threaded-rod.jpg|250px]] '''x1''' threaded rod<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Xz-axis-20.jpg|repeat the operations on the other side and turn the threaded rods until the z-sliders touch the z-tops <br />
Xz-axis-21.jpg|lock the threaded rods in the flexible couplings thanks to the grubscrew to keep the z-sliders in the correct position (parallel)<br />
Xz-axis-22.jpg|<br />
Xz-axis-23.jpg|draw a parallel mark on both flexible couplings... <br />
Xz-axis-24.jpg|... to keep a visual point of reference of the parellelism of the x-axis with the rest of the machine<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 9/20 - Bed (1 hour) ==<br />
<br />
[[File:M3x30_countersunk-head.jpg|150px]] '''x3''' M3x30 countersunk<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|100px]] '''x3''' M3 nut<br />
[[File:Bed_springs_RS751455.jpg|150px]] '''x3''' spring<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Bed-1.jpg|one side of the aluminium bed has countersunk holes...<br />
Bed-2.jpg|... the other one not... position the bed so that the countersunk holes are against the table<br />
Bed-3.jpg|remove the plastic from the film heater and stick the film heater on the aluminium bed like shown on the picture (crooked to make the wires pass to the right of the right hole)<br />
Bed-4.jpg|place the M3x30 countersunk in the holes<br />
Bed-5.jpg|add the M3 nuts<br />
Bed-6.jpg|add the springs<br />
Bed-7.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-y-carriage.png|250px]] '''x1''' y-carriage<br />
[[File:Linear-bearing-1.png|100px]] '''x3''' linear bearing<br />
[[File:Zipties.jpg|150px]] '''x4''' zip-tie<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Bed-8.jpg|<br />
Bed-9.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|150px]] '''x2''' M3x8<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Bed-10.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FRM-belt.png|200px]] '''x1''' 250mm belt<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Bed-11.jpg|the bottom part of the belt must be aligned with the y-carriage corners and the belt middle must be aligned with both M3x8<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-y-belt-clamp.png|250px]] '''x1''' belt clamp<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M3 nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Bed-12.jpg|<br />
Bed-13.jpg|screw the M3x8 in the belt clamp until the belt can't move anymore (the printed belt clamp distorts a bit)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-bed-adjuster.png|250px]] '''x3''' bed adjuster<br />
[[File:M3_nut.jpg|100px]] '''x3''' M3 nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Bed-14.jpg|<br />
Bed-15.jpg|push the M3 nuts completely in the bed adjusters<br />
Bed-16.jpg|if it's too tight you can help yourself with a M3x8 and a 2.5 hexagonal wrench<br />
Bed-17.jpg|<br />
Bed-18.jpg|position the y-carriage over the aluinium bed and fix it with the bed adjusters: screw until the M3x30 countersunk extremities are aligned with the upper part of the bed adjusters (tighten completely the M3 nuts against the aluminium bed) <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Smooth-rod-300mm.jpg|250px]] '''x2''' smooth rod<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Bed-19.jpg|<br />
Bed-20.jpg|insert the smooth rods from the front side of the machine through the front rod-idler<br />
Bed-21.jpg|pass the smooth rods through the linear bearings fixed on the bed (bed side with 2 linear bearings on the right smooth rod)<br />
Bed-22.jpg|push the smooth rods through the rear rod-dlier <br />
Bed-23.jpg|<br />
Bed-24.jpg|check if the bed slides well on the smooth rods<br />
Bed-25.jpg|if the bed doesn't slide well you might adjust the space between the front rod-idlers to make the smooth rods parellel <br />
Bed-26.jpg|place one extremity of the belt over the aluminium profile (make sure that the belt is parellel with the y-axis)<br />
Bed-27.jpg|slide the y-motor part until the pulley teeth are aligned with the belt and lock it on the aluminium profile<br />
Bed-28.jpg|place the other extremity of the belt over the aluminium profile (make sure that the belt is parellel with the y-axis)<br />
Bed-29.jpg|slide the y-idler part until the bearings are aligned with the belt and lock it on the aluminium profile<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Zipties.jpg|150px]] '''x5''' zip-tie<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Bed-30.jpg|make a loop with one extremity of the belt and close it with 2 zip-ties<br />
Bed-31.jpg|do it again with the other extremity<br />
Bed-32.jpg|<br />
Bed-33.jpg|pass the belt over the pully...<br />
Bed-34.jpg|... and the bearings<br />
Bed-35.jpg|pass a zip-tie through both loops... (be careful with not twisting the belt!)<br />
Bed-36.jpg|... and tighten the zip-tie until the belt is taut<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FRM-end-piece.png|150px]] '''x2''' cable terminal<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Bed-37.jpg|<br />
Bed-38.jpg|strip the extremities of the film heater wires<br />
Bed-39.jpg|crimp firmly both cable terminals<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Mini-fit_fiche-femelle.jpg|150px]] '''x2''' female ferrule (2.54mm)<br />
[[File:2-pin.png|150px]] '''x1''' 2-pin casing<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Bed-40.jpg|shorten the sheath of the resistor<br />
Bed-41.jpg|strip the extremity of both resistor wires<br />
Bed-42.jpg|<br />
Bed-43.jpg|crimp firmly the ferrules on the wires<br />
Bed-44.jpg|<br />
Bed-45.jpg|push the ferrules completely in the 2-pin casing<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 10/20 - Endstops (30 min) ==<br />
<br />
=== X-endstop ===<br />
<br />
[[File:Micro-switch_with-lever.jpg|150px]] '''x1''' endstop<br />
[[File:FRM-heatshrink-tubing.png|150px]] '''x2''' heatshrink sleeve<br />
[[File:FRM-ferule.png|80px]] '''x2''' ferrule<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
X-endstop-1.jpg|keep 35cm of a 2-pin wire with connector<br />
X-endstop-2.jpg|strip 3cm at each extremity<br />
X-endstop-3.jpg|add 2cm of heatshrink sleeve and a ferrule<br />
X-endstop-4.jpg|pass the wire through one endstop extremity...<br />
X-endstop-6.jpg|... and pass it back through the ferrule<br />
X-endstop-7.jpg|crimp firmly<br />
X-endstop-8.jpg|position the heatshrink sleeve over the crimped ferrule...<br />
X-endstop-10.jpg|... and heat it with a lighter<br />
X-endstop-11.jpg|do it again with the other wire<br />
X-endstop-12.jpg|position the endstop in the z-slider... (strip oriented downward)<br />
X-endstop-13.jpg|... and push completely<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Y-endstop ===<br />
<br />
[[File:Micro-switch_with-lever.jpg|150px]] '''x1''' endstop<br />
[[File:FRM-heatshrink-tubing.png|150px]] '''x2''' heatshrink sleeve<br />
[[File:FRM-ferule.png|80px]] '''x2''' ferrule<br />
[[File:FR2-5-y-endstop-holder.png|200px]] '''x1''' y-endstop holder<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Y-endstop-1.jpg|keep 25cm of a 2-pin wire with connector <br />
X-endstop-11.jpg|extend the endstop like previously<br />
Y-endstop-3.jpg|pass the endstop through the endstop holder (strip opposed to the endstop holder hook)<br />
Y-endstop-4.jpg|push completely <br />
Y-endstop-5.jpg|<br />
Y-endstop-6.jpg|remove the left smooth rod from the rear rod-idler to add the endstop holder<br />
Y-endstop-7.jpg|push back the smooth rod through the rear rod-idler<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Z-endstop ===<br />
<br />
[[File:Micro-switch_with-lever.jpg|150px]] '''x1''' endstop<br />
[[File:FRM-heatshrink-tubing.png|150px]] '''x2''' heatshrink sleeve<br />
[[File:FRM-ferule.png|80px]] '''x2''' ferrule<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Z-endstop-1.jpg|keep 15cm of a 2-pin wire with connector <br />
FR2-5-blower-3.jpg|(save the other part of the wires to extend the blower in the next step)<br />
X-endstop-11.jpg|extend the enstop like previously<br />
Z-endstop-3.jpg|position the endstop in the z-motor...<br />
Z-endstop-4.jpg|... and push completely<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 11/20 - Blower (15 min) ==<br />
<br />
[[File:Fan404010.png|200px]] '''x1''' blower<br />
[[File:FRM-ferule.png|80px]] '''x2''' ferrule<br />
[[File:FRM-heatshrink-tubing.png|150px]] '''x2''' heatshrink sleeve<br />
[[File:FRM-end-piece.png|100px]] '''x2''' cable terminal (1mm)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Blower-1.jpg|cut the connector of the blower...<br />
FR2-5-blower-2.jpg|... and strip the extremities<br />
FR2-5-blower-3.jpg|take wires you've saved from the z-endstop...<br />
FR2-5-blower-4.jpg|... and strip the extremities<br />
FR2-5-blower-5.jpg|<br />
FR2-5-blower-6.jpg|extend the blower wires with 2 ferrules<br />
FR2-5-blower-7.jpg|crimp firmly<br />
FR2-5-blower-8.jpg|cover with heatshrink sleeve...<br />
FR2-5-blower-9.jpg|... and heat them with a lighter<br />
FR2-5-blower-10.jpg|crimp firmly both cable terminals on the extremities<br />
FR2-5-blower-11.jpg|notice the arrow on the blower<br />
FR2-5-blower-12.jpg|orient the blower over the x-slider: blades oriented downward and the arrow toward the inside of the x-slider<br />
FR2-5-blower-13.jpg|push completely the blower in the x-slider<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 12/20 - Extruder (45 min) ==<br />
<br />
[[File:M3-0-extruder-corps.png|150px]] '''x1''' extruder 1<br />
[[File:M3-0-extruder-levier.png|150px]] '''x1''' extrudeur 2<br />
[[File:M3-0-extruder-capot1.png|130px]] '''x1''' extrudeur 3<br />
[[File:M3x16.jpg|150px]] '''x1''' M3x10<br />
[[File:603zz.png|100px]] '''x1''' 603zz bearing<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-extruder03.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder04.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder05.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder06.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder07.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:FRM-pneumatic-fitting-MA1203M5.png|100px]] '''x1''' pneumatic fitting<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-extruder09.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder10.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:M3x25TCHC.jpg|150px]] '''x1''' M3x25<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-extruder11.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder12.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder13.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Bed_springs_RS751455.jpg |150px]] '''x1''' spring<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-extruder15.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:M3x25TCHC.jpg|150px]] '''x3''' M3x25<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-extruder16.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder17.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:Nema14.jpg|250px]] '''x1''' nema 17<br />
[[File:FRM-insert.png|100px]] '''x1''' insert (+ grub screw)<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-extruder19.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder20.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder22.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder28.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder23.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder25.JPG|<br />
FR26-extruder26.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 13/20 - Electronic board (15 min) ==<br />
<br />
=== Potentiometers adjustment ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Potentiometers_FoldaRap2-5_1.jpg|<br />
Potentiometers_FoldaRap2-5_2.jpg|<br />
Potentiometers_FoldaRap2-5_3.jpg|<br />
Potentiometers_FoldaRap2-5_4.jpg|turn the potentiometers COUNTERCLOCKWISE and SLOWLY to position them like on the drawing<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Electronic board fixing ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-board-mount-minitronics.png|250px]] '''x2''' board mount<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M3x8<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR2-5-minitronics-1.jpg|<br />
FR2-5-minitronics-2.jpg|position the board mounts the same side as the USB port<br />
FR2-5-minitronics-3.jpg|fix the electronic board on the board mounts with M3x8<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
[[File:M3x8.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M3x8<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR2-5-minitronics-4.jpg|place the electronic board in the machine under the power supply<br />
FR2-5-minitronics-5.jpg|USB port oriented outward<br />
FR2-5-minitronics-6.jpg|screw the board mounts on the underplate (from underneath)<br />
FR2-5-minitronics-7.jpg|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 14/20 - Wiring (45 min) ==<br />
<br />
=== E-motor ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
141-e-motor-1.jpg|<br />
141-e-motor-2.jpg|plug long wires (70cm) + connector to the extruder motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== X-motor ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
141-x-motor-1.jpg|<br />
141-x-motor-2.jpg|plug long wires (70cm) + connector to the x-motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Y-motor ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
141-y-motor-1.jpg|<br />
141-y-motor-2.jpg|plug short wires (30cm) + connector to the y-motor<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Z-motors ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
141-z-motor-1.jpg|<br />
141-z-motor-2.jpg|plug short wires (30cm) + connector to the z-motors<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Electronic board ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 800px heights= 600px><br />
142-Minitronics_v1-1_wiring-1.jpg|connect the wires according to the drawing (be careful with the wires colour) and pay attention to the following points:<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
142-Minitronics_v1-1_wiring-6.jpg|... every hotend cable must pass OVER the x-axis aluminium profile and join themselves on the hotend left side<br />
142-Minitronics_v1-1_wiring-4.jpg|... every cable mus pass through the rectangle made up from: the upper and the bottom aluminium profiles AND the z-axis and the front feet <br />
142-Minitronics_v1-1_wiring-5.jpg|<br />
142-Minitronics_v1-1_wiring-3.jpg|<br />
142-Minitronics_v1-1_wiring-2.jpg|... the cables must be flat enough so that they don't disturb the bed movements<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 15/20 - Printing surface (30 min) ==<br />
<br />
=== Kapton (option 1) ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR2-5-kapton-1.jpg|the plastic doesn't stick on aluminium: cover the aluminium bed with Kapton<br />
FR2-5-kapton-2.jpg|make sure that there is no air bubbles between the Kapton and the bed<br />
FR2-5-x-positioning.jpg|bring the hotend in the middle of the x-axis<br />
FR2-5-y-positioning.jpg|bring the bed in the middle of the y-axis<br />
FR2-5-z-positioning.jpg|bring the x-axis down by turning manually counterclockwise the flexible couplings (around 10 times)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== PrintBite (option 2) ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR26-bed01.JPG|remove the adhesive film from the PrintBite surface...<br />
FR26-bed02.JPG|... and stick it on the aluminium bed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 16/20 - Driver (15 min) ==<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Ftdi-chip-1.jpg|download the adapted driver on: http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm<br />
Ftdi-chip-2.jpg|<br />
Ftdi-chip-3.jpg|instal the driver<br />
Ftdi-chip-4.jpg|connect the 3D-printer to your computer<br />
Ftdi-chip-5.jpg|note the USB port COM number<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 17/20 - Firmware (15 min) ==<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
0-github-FoldaRap-2-X-1.jpg|download the FoldaRap file on: https://github.com/OpenEdge/FoldaRap2.6<br />
0-github-FoldaRap-2-X-2.jpg|extract the files<br />
RepRapWorld_software_downloads.jpg|download Arduino 1.6.3 on: http://reprapworld.com/?software<br />
Arduino-1-0-4.jpg|open Arduino 1.6.3<br />
Arduino-1.jpg|open the .ino file: FoldaRap > Firmware > Marlin_FoldaRap2_6_Minitronics > Marlin_FoldaRap2_6_Minitronics.ino<br />
Arduino-4-FR2-5.jpg|select the electronic board type > Ministronics<br />
Arduino-5-FR2-5.jpg|select the port COM number<br />
Arduino-6-FR2-5.jpg|transfer the firmware on the electronic board<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 18/20 - Software (35 min) ==<br />
<br />
=== User interface ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Download-pronterface-1.jpg|download Printrun 03Feb2015 on: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/<br />
Download-pronterface-2.jpg|extract the files and open Pronterface<br />
Download-pronterface-3.jpg|here is a short tutorial on Pronterface: http://www.plasticscribbler.com/tutorial/getting-started/item/21-getting-started-with-pronterface#.VZZMAUaVM9p<br />
FR-options-pronterface-1.jpg|open the otpions panel<br />
FR-options-pronterface-2.jpg|enter the bed size: 140x140x135<br />
FR-options-pronterface-3.jpg|tick the box "display temperature gauges"<br />
FR-pronterface-1.jpg|close the Pronterface window and restart the software; connect the 3D-printer to the correct port COM number (@115200 baudrate) <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Testing ===<br />
<br />
==== Preparation ====<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR2-5-x-positioning.jpg|bring the hotend in the middle of the x-axis<br />
FR2-5-y-positioning.jpg|bring the bed in the middle of the y-axis<br />
FR2-5-z-positioning.jpg|bring the x-axis down by turning manually counterclockwise the flexible couplings (around 10 times)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== Switching on ====<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR2-5-connection-1.jpg|connect the FoldaRap<br />
FR2-5-connection-2.jpg|switch on<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== X testing ====<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR-pronterface-3.jpg|test the x-motor movement: (+)10X moves the hotend of 10mm to the right (the hotend moves away from the x-endstop) <br />
FR-pronterface-3x.jpg|(-)10X moves the hotend of 10mm to the left (the hotend moves closer to the x-endstop) <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
If the motor rotation is reversed go the the "readjustments" paragraph...<br />
<br />
==== Y testing ====<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR-pronterface-4.jpg|test the y-motor movement: (+)10Y moves the bed of 10mm to the front (the bed moves away from the y-endstop) <br />
FR-pronterface-4y.jpg|(-)10Y moves the bed of 10mm to the back (the bed moves closer to the y-endstop) <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
If the motor rotation is reversed go the the "readjustments" paragraph...<br />
<br />
==== Z testing ====<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR-pronterface-5.jpg|test the z-motor movement: (+)1Z moves the hotend of 1mm to the top (the hotend moves away from the z-endstop) <br />
FR-pronterface-5z.jpg|(-)1Z moves the hotend of 1mm to the bottom (the hotend moves closer to the z-endstop) <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
If the motor rotation is reversed go the the "readjustments" paragraph...<br />
<br />
==== Hotend testing and adjustment ====<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR-pronterface-6.jpg|set the hotend temperature to 230°C<br />
FR-pronterface-6a.jpg|remove the hotend from the x-axis (be careful: it's hot! use gloves): as the metal parts distort because of the heat it's necessary to screw tighter the nozzle in the heater block to make the junction with the barrel airtight<br />
FR-pronterface-6b.jpg|use 2 pair pliers to do that: 1 pair to hold the heater block and 1 pair to screw the nozzle<br />
FR-pronterface-6c.jpg|replace the hotend on the x-axis<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== Extruder testing ====<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR-pronterface-7.jpg|while the hotend is hot push the extrude botton with 10mm (if the hotend temperature is < 150°C the printer will protect itself and won't extrude) <br />
FR26-extruder25.JPG|the e-motor turns COUNTER clockwise<br />
FR-pronterface-9.jpg|stop heating up the hotend<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
If the motor rotation is reversed go the the "readjustments" paragraph...<br />
<br />
==== Bed testing ====<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR-pronterface-10.jpg|set the bed temperature to 65°C<br />
FR-pronterface-11.jpg|stop heating up the bed<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Readjustments ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Arduino-7-FR2-5.jpg|if the motors rotation is reversed then disconnect the 3D-printer from Pronterface and re-open the firmware in Arduino 1.6.3 >> Configuration.h >> "Mechanical Settings" paragraph<br />
Arduino-8-FR2-5.jpg|define INVERT_?_DIR false // write "true" instead of "false" (or the contrary) for the axis which need to be reversed and transfer the new version of the firmware on your electronic board<br />
FR2-5-wiring-check.jpg|test again the motors rotation<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 19/20 - Bed calibration (20 min) ==<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Z-positioning-1.jpg|thanks to the Pronterface console move the nozzle over the middle of the bed...<br />
Z-positioning-2.jpg|... and move it down until the nozzle touches the bed without putting pressure on it <br />
Z-positioning-3.jpg|screw the M3x30 contersunk in the z-slider... <br />
Z-positioning-4.jpg|... until it touches the z-endstop <br />
Z-positioning-5.jpg|thanks to the Pronterface console move the nozzle up (+)3Z...<br />
Z-positioning-9.jpg|... and bring the nozzle over the first M3x30 countersunk <br />
Z-positioning-6.jpg|bring the nozzle to its Z origin (HOME Z)<br />
Z-positioning-11.jpg|IF the nozzle doesn't touch the bed...<br />
Z-positioning-12.jpg|... turn the bed adjuster clockwise... <br />
Z-positioning-13.jpg|... until the nozzle touches the bed without putting pressure on it <br />
Z-positioning-14.jpg|IF the nozzle puts pressure on the bed... <br />
Z-positioning-15.jpg|... turn the bed adjuster counterclockwise... <br />
Z-positioning-13.jpg|... until the nozzle touches the bed without putting pressure on it<br />
Z-positioning-5.jpg|thanks to the Pronterface console move the nozzle up (+)3Z...<br />
Z-positioning-18.jpg|... and bring the nozzle over the second M3x30 countersunk <br />
Z-positioning-6.jpg|bring the nozzle to its Z origin (HOME Z)<br />
Z-positioning-20.jpg|adjust the space between the nozzle and the bed with the bed adjuster...<br />
Z-positioning-21.jpg|... until the nozzle touches the bed without putting pressure on it <br />
Z-positioning-5.jpg|thanks to the Pronterface console move the nozzle up (+)3Z...<br />
Z-positioning-23.jpg|... and bring the nozzle over the third M3x30 countersunk <br />
Z-positioning-6.jpg|bring the nozzle to its Z origin (HOME Z)<br />
Z-positioning-25.jpg|adjust the space between the nozzle and the bed with the bed adjuster...<br />
Z-positioning-26.jpg|... until the nozzle touches the bed without putting pressure on it <br />
Z-positioning-5.jpg|thanks to the Pronterface console move the nozzle up (+)3Z<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Step 20/20 - Finishing touches (30 min) ==<br />
<br />
=== Spiral sheath ===<br />
<br />
Once your are sure that every part of the 3D-printer is adjusted you can bring the finishing touches:<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Spiral-sheath-1.jpg|bring order to the cables path...<br />
Spiral-sheath-2.jpg|... by organising them with the spiral sheath...<br />
Spiral-sheath-3.jpg|... and zip-ties fixed on the underplate<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Hinges-blocks ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-hinge-block-left.png|250px]] '''x1''' hinge block left<br />
[[File:FR2-5-hinge-block-right.png|250px]] '''x1''' hinge block right<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x2''' M4x8<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x2''' T-nut<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Z-stop-1.jpg|<br />
Z-stop-2.jpg|screw the hinges-blocks on the aluminium profile... <br />
Z-stop-3.jpg|... so that you can find back the correct position of the z-axis after folding / unforlding your FoldaRap <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Spool holder ===<br />
<br />
[[File:FR2-5-spool-holder.png|250px]] '''x1''' spool-holder<br />
[[File:M4x8_round-head.jpg|100px]] '''x1''' M4x8<br />
[[File:T-nut.jpg|80px]] '''x1''' T-nut <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
Spool-holder-1.jpg|fix the spool holder over the left rear foot (the same side as the extruder)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== 1st printing ==<br />
<br />
=== Modelling ===<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
1st-printing-1.jpg|draw a 40x40x5mm parallelepipoid on any computer aided design (CAD) software: Blender, 3D Slash, SketchUp, etc.<br />
1st-printing-2.jpg|export the parallelepipoid as an .stl file (and under the CAD software extension) <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Netfabb Basic ===<br />
<br />
Check the quality of your .stl file on Netfabb Basic: you might "repair" or re-arrange your .stl file on Netfabb <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
1st-printing-3.jpg|download and install Netfabb Basic on: http://www.netfabb.com/downloadcenter.php?basic=1<br />
1st-printing-4.jpg|open your .stl file in Netfabb Basic: if the file is ok every face appears in green and the software gives you the volume value in the right panel (you can also check the dimensions of your model)<br />
1st-printing-5.jpg|if the .stl file is wrong: a warning sign appears and the software doesn't give you the volume value <br />
1st-printing-6.jpg|to repair the .stl file: click on the red cross button (REPAIR)<br />
1st-printing-7.jpg|select the automatic repair<br />
1st-printing-8.jpg|apply repair and remove old part<br />
1st-printing-9.jpg|don't forget to save the new version of your file: Part > Export part > as STL<br />
1st-printing-10.jpg|if you want to know more about the Netfabb Basic functions download the tutorials on: http://www.netfabb.com/tutorials.php<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
If the automatic repair doesn't wotk: use the red cross button to identify the origin of the problem and re-open your file under the CAD software extension to correct the problem manually (don't forget to re-export the model as a .stl file)<br />
<br />
=== Slic3r ===<br />
<br />
Define the printing parameters of your model in Slic3r<br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
1st-printing-11.jpg|download Slic3r on: http://slic3r.org/download<br />
1st-printing-12.jpg|extract the files and execute slic3r.exe<br />
1st-printing-13.jpg|the Slic3r window opens without any installation<br />
1st-printing-14.jpg|change the user mode: File > Preferences > Mode > Expert (then stop and restart Slic3r to integrate the changes)<br />
1st-printing-15.jpg|load the config adapted for the FoldaRap (from the FoldaRap-master file from GitHub): File > Load Config... > FoldaRap-master > software > config.ini (choose "05nozzle" if the nozzle diameter is of 0.5mm)<br />
1st-printing-16.jpg|check if the configuration is well downloaded<br />
1st-printing-17.jpg|open the .stl file in Slic3r: Add... > File.stl<br />
1st-printing-18.jpg|<br />
1st-printing-19.jpg|export the G-code containing every settings about: Print / Filament / Printer<br />
1st-printing-20.jpg|have a look on the Slic3r manual if you want to know more about Slic3r: http://manual.slic3r.org/<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Pronterface ===<br />
<br />
Drive your 3D-printer with Pronterface <br />
<br />
<gallery perrow=3 widths= 400px heights= 300px><br />
FR-pronterface-11.jpg|the window Pronterface is probably still open and your printer still connected... if no: start again Pronterface and connect the machine on the correct port COM number @ 115200 baudrate<br />
FR-pronterface-10.jpg|set the bed temperature to 65°C... <br />
1st-printing-21-190.jpg|... and the hotend temperature to 195°C <br />
1st-printing-22.jpg|once the hotend temperature is reached load the filament in the machine<br />
1st-printing-23.jpg|pass the filament through a cube of foam (if you have one...): it acts like a filter and protects the nozzle against dust<br />
1st-printing-24.jpg|position the spool on the spool holder<br />
FR26-extruder30.JPG|pass the filament through the extruder... <br />
FR26-extruder31.JPG|... between the pulley and the bearing... <br />
1st-printing-27.jpg|... then push manually until you see the melted plastic passing through the nozzle (use the brucelle pliers to remove the melted plastic)<br />
1st-printing-28.jpg|load the G-code on Pronterface... <br />
1st-printing-30.jpg|... and print: the hotend and the bed will search automaticcaly the "0" position before starting to print<br />
Mondrian-2-2_340.jpg|check the printing quality: if the nozzle is too high over the bed the filament won't stick on the Kapton (the filament draws small "waves") <br />
Mondrian-2-2_341.jpg|if the nozzle is too low the filament looks thick or even doesn't extrude<br />
Mondrian-2-2_342.jpg|if you notice one situation or the other adjust the bed level with the bed adjusters until the filament looks like on the picture<br />
Mondrian-2-2_345.jpg|when your test parallelepipoid is finished wait the bed temperature to reach 40°C before removing the object (otherwise you can distort it)<br />
1st-printing-31.jpg|check the object dimensions precision with a calliper (+/- 0.05mm)...<br />
1st-printing-32.jpg|<br />
1st-printing-33.jpg|... and the object angles precision with a ruler and a set square (if the precision is not satisfying you might have to adjust the geometry of your machine: parallelism and perpendicularity of the aluminium profiles and/or smooth rods and/or lasercut parts) <br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Upkeep ==<br />
<br />
The FoldaRap doesn't need much upkeep. Anyway it's important to look carefully at the following points:<br />
<br />
# Make sure that your printing surface is always clean: if you put finger mark or grease / oil on your bed use a dry and clean duster to clean the bed while it is cold.<br />
# Put some oil on the X and Z aluminium extrusion profiles (once a month).<br />
# If you notice that the extrusion width decreases compared with your first prints then your nozzle is probably [[Clog|clogged]]. Please, see [[Unclog]] and follow the procedure.<br />
:: If the problem persists, heat the nozzle around 260°C (not more) and push by hand the filament through the nozzle: the blockage should go out of the nozzle and it will become easier to extrude the melted plastic. <br />
:: If not, you will have to disassemble the nozzle from the rest of the extrusion head, put it on an electric hotplate and heat it around 300°C for 1 hour (the blockage should sublimate). <br />
<br />
Your FoldaRap is now ready. Have a lot of fun with your projects !</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Unclog&diff=178640Unclog2017-03-08T08:50:05Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Procedure */ Fix syntax</p>
<hr />
<div>This will be a guide for a basic unclogging procedure. You would want to unclog your hotend if debris such as dirt has entered your hotend. This is also useful in removing partial clogs.<br />
<br />
== Procedure ==<br />
<br />
This procedure will explain an unclogging procedure for PLA. Adjust the temps to something appropriate for your material.<br />
<br />
# Heat the hotend to 200°C<br />
# Extrude 10mm of filament<br />
# Let it sit for five minutes at temp<br />
# Lower the temperature to ~85°C<br />
# Let it sit for five minutes at temp<br />
# Loosen your extruder tensioner<br />
# Pull the filament out<br />
<br />
If it is ABS, soaking the nozzle in acetone can also help.<br />
<br />
== Prevention ==<br />
<br />
'''Filament Cleaners'''<br />
<br />
basic: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/universal-filament-filter<br />
<br />
for mounting on an extrusion: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/aluminum-extrusion-filament-cleaner<br />
<br />
==See also==<br />
* [[Clog]]<br />
<br />
==External links==<br />
<br />
Reference guides with images and more details:<br />
<br />
* [http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning nozzle-cleaning - Bukobot 3D Printer Instructions & Docs]<br />
* [https://www.lulzbot.com/unclogging-your-hot-end Unclogging Your Hot End | LulzBot]<br />
* [https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-How-to-Unclog-the-Hotend-The-Cold-Pull Unclogging the Hotend using the Cold Pull method &ndash; Printrbot Support]<br />
<br />
[[Category:3D printing]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Unclog&diff=178639Unclog2017-03-08T08:48:33Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Add external links for reference.</p>
<hr />
<div>This will be a guide for a basic unclogging procedure. You would want to unclog your hotend if debris such as dirt has entered your hotend. This is also useful in removing partial clogs.<br />
<br />
== Procedure ==<br />
<br />
This procedure will explain an unclogging procedure for PLA. Adjust the temps to something appropriate for your material.<br />
<br />
1. Heat the hotend to 200C<br />
<br />
2. Extrude 10mm of filament<br />
<br />
3. Let it sit for five minutes at temp<br />
<br />
4. Lower the temperature to ~85C<br />
<br />
5. Let it sit for five minutes at temp<br />
<br />
6. Loosen your extruder tensioner<br />
<br />
7. Pull the filament out<br />
<br />
If it is ABS, soaking the nozzle in acetone can also help.<br />
<br />
== Prevention ==<br />
<br />
'''Filament Cleaners'''<br />
<br />
basic: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/universal-filament-filter<br />
<br />
for mounting on an extrusion: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/aluminum-extrusion-filament-cleaner<br />
<br />
==See also==<br />
* [[Clog]]<br />
<br />
==External links==<br />
<br />
Reference guides with images and more details:<br />
<br />
* [http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning nozzle-cleaning - Bukobot 3D Printer Instructions & Docs]<br />
* [https://www.lulzbot.com/unclogging-your-hot-end Unclogging Your Hot End | LulzBot]<br />
* [https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-How-to-Unclog-the-Hotend-The-Cold-Pull Unclogging the Hotend using the Cold Pull method &ndash; Printrbot Support]<br />
<br />
[[Category:3D printing]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clone_Wars_Netiquette/es&diff=177578Clone Wars Netiquette/es2016-12-01T13:21:56Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Fix formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Clone_Wars_Netiquette}}<br />
== ¿Qué es la Netiquette? ==<br />
Es un conjunto de normas de comportamiento dentro de internet. En concreto esta netiquette es para la [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] del [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]. La [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] es un medio a través del cual compartir tus experiencias, informar de eventos, preguntar tus dudas, siempre en lo relacionado con impresión 3D libre.<br />
<br />
{{Notice|'''Nota'''. Esta lista de correo no es ''el canal de soporte gratuito'' de ninguna empresa, por lo que si te has comprado una impresora y no te funciona, deberías preguntarle antes a la empresa que te la vendió.}}<br />
<br />
== Cosas que tengo que saber ==<br />
<br />
=== ¿Por dónde empiezo? ===<br />
Es muy recomendable que tu primer correo a la lista sea un correo en el que te presentes, de forma que cualquiera pueda saber quien eres leyendo tu primer correo en el archivo de la lista. Hay alguna información que es interesante que ese correo contenga:<br />
<br />
* Tu nombre; o si lo prefieres, tu apodo.<br />
* Es recomendable que digas de que zona eres, para que si hay algún grupo cercano te pueda informar.<br />
* Si tienes intención de ponerte a construir una impresora RepRap, dí que modelo vas a construir y, si ya has decidido que nombre ponerle, también puedes decirlo.<br />
<br />
No hace falta que preguntes por donde empezar, la información que necesitas está en el [[Proyecto Clone Wars]], así que primero lee y luego pregunta.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Hay que ser formal al escribir? ===<br />
No hace falta, estamos entre amigos, no es una carta al Presidente. Se cortés, escribe bien. Saludar y despedirte en los correos puede ser conveniente al comenzar y dar por finalizada una conversación o hilo, en medio quizá sea innecesario. Escribe en minúsculas y trata de evitar faltas de ortografía o escribir con demasiadas abreviaturas.<br />
<br />
Si estás explicando un problema con tu impresora o alguna duda, intenta dar los detalles necesarios para poner a los demás en situación, nadie es adivino!<br />
<br />
Piensa bien lo que quieres decir, redacta con tranquilidad y de forma estructurada. Una duda mal planteada puede quedar sin resolver.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Qué pongo en el asunto? ===<br />
Debe ser conciso, trata de evitar asuntos como «tengo una duda» o «quien puede ayudarme». En lugar de eso puedes poner un titular para tu consulta. Por ejemplo, "[DUDA] Los motores se mueven al revés".<br />
<br />
Evita escribir temas que contengan toda la información en el asunto. El desarrollo y los detalles irán después en el mensaje. Debe ser breve, aunque tampoco pongas "[DUDA]" a secas. Un término medio.<br />
<br />
Es bueno usar [[#Etiquetas|etiquetas]].<br />
<br />
Y donde dice ''«Es bueno usar etiquetas»'' léase ''«No es que sea obligatorio..., pero '''HAY que usar etiquetas'''»''.<br />
<br />
... Y no pasa nada si se te olvida ponerla, pero el primer mensaje que obtendrás entonces como respuesta será de nuestro querido ''«Prusador del Frac»'' que amablemente te recordará que '''HAY que usar etiquetas''' para la próxima vez.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Qué es una etiqueta? ===<br />
Las [[#Etiquetas|etiquetas]] se usan para clasificar los temas. Se escriben en el asunto al crear un tema nuevo y van siempre entre corchetes: [ ]. Cuando necesites buscar sobre algún tema en concreto, escribiendo la etiqueta (con los corchetes) en el buscador te saldrán todos los que están etiquetados y por tanto, relacionados. Por ejemplo, si quieres buscar hojas de ruta de otra gente para ver cómo se hacen y publicar la tuya, poniendo "[Hoja de ruta]" en el buscador tendrías todas las que se han publicado últimamente.<br />
<br />
La lista de las etiquetas más usadas está al final de esta página.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo editar los temas una vez publicados? ===<br />
No, una vez publicados ya sólo se pueden añadir respuestas. Si quieres rectificar algo siempre puedes responder en tu publicación con la corrección que creas necesaria.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo responder en cualquier tema abierto? ===<br />
Por supuesto. Cualquier tema que creas interesante o en el que te interese participar está abierto para ti. Trata de evitar respuestas que no aporten nada a hilos, como «jaja» u «ok».<br />
Sin embargo, cuando se comienza a hablar de un tema, si a lo largo del hilo por algún motivo se comienza a hablar de otra cosa, abre un tema aparte. Si los temas de conversación se entremezclan la lista resulta muy difícil de leer.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Puedo adjuntar archivos? ===<br />
No es recomendable. Lo correcto es poner un enlace a lo que quieras aportar. Al postear se envían correos a muchas personas, y por cada una, una copia de los ficheros que has adjuntado. Piensa en primer lugar si lo que vas a adjuntar aporta algo y, si es así, súbelo a algún servicio de intercambio de ficheros genérico, como [http://dropbox.com/ Dropbox], o especializado, como [http://imageshack.us/ ImageShack] o [http://thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse], y enlázalo desde tu correo.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Hay algún buscador? ===<br />
Sí. En la barra superior está el buscador de temas. Antes de escribir con alguna duda es altamente recomendable buscar por si alguien ya lo ha preguntado. Además existe bastante documentación en castellano, y muchísima en inglés. Infórmate bien antes de preguntar y, en caso de que en castellano no encuentres la información que necesitas y tengas problemas con el inglés, existe una gran comunidad dispuesta a ayudarte. Si tu duda queda resuelta y no estaba bien documentada la solución, documéntala.<br />
<br />
=== ¿La lista de correo es pública? ===<br />
Los temas que posteas son públicos y permanentes. No podrás «deshacer», así que piensate dos veces lo que envías. Sobra decir que no reveles contraseñas, números de tarjeta, y cualquier otro dato que consideres sensible o personal. Si vas a contestar en privado a uno de los participantes en la lista, asegúrate de que el destinatario del correo es él y no la lista.<br />
<br />
=== ¿Y si alguien no cumple las normas? ===<br />
Invita a los usuarios a seguir la netiquette enlazándoles a esta página o recordándoles las buenas formas que no ponen en práctica.<br />
<br />
== Etiquetas ==<br />
<br />
;[PRESENTACION]: Para darse a conocer los nuevos participantes en la lista.<br />
<br />
;[HOJA DE RUTA]: En el caso que estés construyendo una impresora y quieras mostrar su evolución.<br />
<br />
;[PROBLEMA]: Para describir un problema concreto, que te trae de cabeza y para el que no has encontrado solución en el [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Clone_Wars_FAQ/es FAQ], ni en otros hilos en la lista.<br />
<br />
;[DUDA]: En el caso de que tengas una duda que no puedas clasificar en otra categoría, utiliza esta etiqueta.<br />
<br />
;[ELECTRONICA]: En el caso de que abras un hilo en el que se hablará de un tema relacionado con RAMPS, arduino, pololus, cableado, calentadores...<br />
<br />
;[SOFTWARE]: En el caso de que vayas a hablar sobre aplicaciones de impresión, laminado o firmware.<br />
<br />
;[DESARROLLO]: Si vas a hablar sobre una mejora para las impresoras, puedes utilizar esta etiqueta.<br />
<br />
;[PROYECTO]: Si quieres contarle a la comunidad algún proyecto que estés llevando a cabo relacionado con la impresión 3D.<br />
<br />
;[EVENTO]: En el caso de que estés convocando o anunciando una quedada, charlas...<br />
<br />
;[DONACION] [TRUEQUE] o [VENTA]: En el caso de que estés anunciando una donación, trueque o venta de piezas impresas o vitaminas para algún modelo de impresora.<br />
<br />
;[WIKI]: En el caso de que se vaya a tratar un asunto relacionado con la documentación de la wiki.<br />
<br />
;[OFFTOPIC]: En el caso de que tu correo no esté estrechamente relacionado con el tema de la impresión 3D, o sea un correo lúdico.<br />
<br />
;[...]: Esta lista no está ni mucho menos completa, siéntete libre de editarla y añadir las etiquetas que creas necesarias.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Proyecto_Clone_Wars&diff=177546Proyecto Clone Wars2016-11-28T13:02:21Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Introducción */ Arreglado enlace a la historia del proyecto</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Proyecto_Clone_Wars}}<br />
__NOTOC__<br />
<div id="mainPage.intro" style="border: solid 1px #aaa;"><br />
<h1 id="mainPage.title" style="background:#eee; color:#cf7606; padding:0.4em; font-weight700; font-size:2em;">Bienvenido al <span id="projectName" style="color:#005288;">Proyecto Clone Wars</span></h1><br />
<div id="mainPage.intro.text" style="padding:0px 10px 10px;"><br />
<table style="width: 100%;"><br />
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<td style="width: 100%; vertical-align: top;"><br />
<br />
'''Clone Wars''' es un grupo dentro de la comunidad RepRap, que trata de documentar en español todo lo necesario para que '''puedas construir tu propia impresora 3D'''. Además recopilamos información como ubicación de comercios locales, miembros del grupo que tienen una impresora cerca de tí..., datos en general que te pueden ayudar con tu proyecto. <br />
<br />
Cualquiera puede entrar a formar parte de esta comunidad. Esperamos que estas páginas te resulten útiles y que en seguida te unas a nuestra comunidad.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align:center">[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|400px]]</div><br />
<br />
"''Oh! Máquinas haciendo máquinas''"-- C3PO<br />
</td><br />
<td valign="top"><videoflash type="youtube">06suMZ8t--c</videoflash></td><br />
</tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
<center style="font-weight:bold;">[[About|Acerca de RepRap]] | [[Community portal|Comunidad RepRap]] | [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d Comunidad Clone Wars]</center><br />
</div><br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
<center><br />
[[File:ConstruyeTuImpresoraButton.png|link=#Introducción]] [[File:CloneWars_Encargo_de_piezas.png|link=#Encargo de Piezas 3D]]<br />
{|+ <br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_Piezas.png|link=Clone_wars:_Glosario/es]]<br />
|width="220px" padding="3px" |'''[[Clone_wars:_Glosario/es| Glosario]]'''<br />
¿Qué es un rodamiento? ¿Qué es el ''hot-end''? ¿No entiendes a que se refieren en la lista? En este glosario general de RepRap encontrarás la respuesta.<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_Impresoras.png|link=Clone Wars: Modelos de impresora/es]]<br />
|width="220px" padding="3px" |'''[[Clone Wars: Modelos de impresora/es| Modelos de impresora]]'''<br />
¿No sabes que impresora construirte? ¿Ya tienes tu impresora y estás mirando a la siguiente? Aquí encontrarás información sobre los modelos documentados.<br />
|-<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_FAQ.png|link=Clone Wars FAQ/es|160px]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Clone Wars FAQ/es | Preguntas Frecuentes y Tutoriales]]'''<br />
¿No andan los motores? ¿No entiendes el programa de laminado? ¡Responde tus dudas y encuentra como hacer lo que necesitas!<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_Clones.png|link=Clone Wars: El imperio de los clones/es]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Clone Wars: El imperio de los clones/es | El imperio de los clones]]'''<br />
¿Quieres ver nuestro vasto imperio de clones? Aquí encontrarás una lista (inmensa) de los clones ordenados por rango.<br />
|-<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_Banco.png|link=Clone_Wars_Bank/es|160px]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Clone_Wars_Bank/es|Banco de piezas]]'''<br />
¿Necesitas piezas para tu primera impresora pero andas justo de presupuesto? ¡Inscríbete en el banco de piezas para recibir una donación!<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_CloneWars.png|link=Bazar_Jedi/es]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Bazar_Jedi/es| Bazar Jedi]]'''<br />
¿Necesitas piezas para tu impresora y las quieres ya? ¡Busca ofertas es nuestro Bazar!<br />
|-<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_CloneWars.png|link=Clone Wars: Tiendas/es]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Clone Wars: Tiendas/es | Tiendas virtuales y físicas]]'''<br />
¿Dónde comprar online? ¿Dónde comprar físicamente? Aquí encontrarás la lista de todos los lugares donde solemos comprar.<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_CloneWars.png|link=Clone_wars:_Evolucion/es]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Clone_wars:_Evolucion/es | Noticias]]'''<br />
¡Entérate de las novedades de la comunidad!<br />
|-<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_Repositorio.png|link=|160px]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[https://github.com/Obijuan/Clone-wars Repositorio]'''<br />
Aquí encontrarás el repositorio GitHub con todos los archivos de CloneWars, tanto piezas como el logotipo (cortesía de Obijuan).<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_Viajes.png|link=Clone_Wars:_Viajes_CloneWars/es | 150px]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Clone_Wars:_Viajes_CloneWars/es|Los viajes de Clone Wars]]'''<br />
La comunidad viaja mucho enseñando sus impresoras y sus impresiones, capturando adeptos del ''ansia viva''. ¡Descubre todo sobre ellos!<br />
|-<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_Software.png|link=|160px]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Clone_Wars:_Software/es|Software]]'''<br />
Sprinter, Marlin, Pronterface, slic3r. ¿Te suenan a chino? Entra para tener una visión global de cómo funciona el software<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:Handheld-33944_150.png|link=|120px]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Clone_Wars:_Difusion/es|Difusión]]''' ¿Eres periodista? ¿ Tienes un blog y quieres publicar un post sobre impresión 3D? ¿Quizás nos has visto en la tele, en un periódico o radio? Aquí podrás encontrar información sobre lo que se ha publicado del proyecto Clone Wars, o sobre impresión 3D en general.<br />
|-<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_CloneWars.png|link=|160px]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Clone_Wars:_Cantina/es | Cantina]]'''<br />
Aquí encontrarás cosas curiosas o graciosas que van surgiendo y no cuadran en otras categorías.<br />
|width="160px" | [[File:CloneWars_Main_Icons_CloneWars.png|link=|160px]]<br />
|width="220px" | '''[[Clone_Wars:_Proyectos/es | Proyectos de la comunidad]]''' Un espacio para referenciar e indexar los proyectos que se van realizando en la comunidad de clonewars, desde mejoras de todo tipo a nuevos diseños de impresoras y maquinas.<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Introducción ==<br />
<br />
* ¿Donde empieza la historia de Clone Wars? [[Clone_Wars:_historia/es | Lee aquí...]]<br />
<br />
* Objetivo: [[Proyecto_Clone_Wars | "imprimir" impresoras 3D]], aprender a construirlas, ayudar a otros e intercambiar información y experiencias.<br />
<br />
* '''¡Quiero construir mi impresora 3D! ¿Qué hago?'''<br />
<br />
# Apúntate a la [[ Clone_Wars_Netiquette/es | lista de correo]] (Es abierta, cualquiera se puede apuntar o dar de baja cuando quiera)<br />
# Envía un mensaje de presentación, para saber que eres nuevo. No olvides decirnos tu nombre y de dónde eres<br />
# Créate una cuenta en la wiki de Reprap. ''Con fines estadísticos e identificativos la nomenclatura de los nombres de usuarios para la cuenta del wiki de RepRap es la siguiente: Letra inicial de tu nombre en mayúscula, seguido de tu primer apellido en minúscula y finalizar el nombre con '''CW''' (de CloneWars) Ejemplo: '''Vicente Prusa''' quiere darse de alta en la wiki. Dará en el alta como nombre de usuario: '''VprusaCW'''<br />
# Pon un nombre a tu impresora 3D (clon), busca un logo e inscribe tu clon en la categoría de '''Solicitante'''. En cuanto realices las primeras compras o recibas las piezas impresas ingresarás en la Academia Jedi :-)<br />
# Quiza sea interesante leerse esto: [[The_incomplete_reprap_beginner%27s_guide/es | Guia de principiantes]]<br />
<br />
* '''¿Qué modelo de impresora me recomendáis construir?'''<br />
:Te recomendamos que montes la [[Clone wars: Prusa iteración 3|Prusa Iteración 3]] o la [[Clone wars: Prusa iteración 3 single frame|Prusa iteración 3 single frame]], ambas son semejantes, la diferencia es que el marco de la Single Frame es de metracrilato o de aluminio y la de la Prusa i3 es de madera. La Prusa i3 está muy bien documentada y muy probada, recientemente se han construido muchas Single Frame y están dando muy buen resultado. También hay varios clones del tipo [[Clone_wars:_Printrbot_v2|printrbot]], aunque la documentación todavía no está completa (aunque lo estará en breve). Sin embargo, si eres aventurero, echa un vistazo a la página de [[Clone_Wars:_Modelos_de_impresora/es|modelos de impresoras]], donde estamos experimentando con los nuevos modelos (Prusa3, Rostock, Prusa Mold...)<br />
<br />
* '''¿Qué presupuesto necesito?'''. Puedes echar un vistazo al [[Clone_wars:_Prusa_Mendel_original#Presupuesto | presupuesto elaborado por Marco Esteban]], que hizo para la construcción de la Prusa 1. Este modelo ya está obsoleto, pero te puede servir de orientación. Típicamente el coste de la primera impresora está en torno a los '''400€ - 450€''' (aunque lo puedes bajar considerablemente). También puedes visitar las páginas de los clones terminados, donde encontrarás información muy útil.<br />
<br />
* '''¿Cómo consigo las piezas imprimibles?'''<br />
** Si tienes acceso a una impresora 3D, las puedes imprimir tú mismo. Las Universidades, asociaciones de robótica e Institutos empiezan a tenerlas. <br />
** Si NO tienes acceso a ninguna puedes utilizar nuestro [[Clone Wars Bank/es|Banco de piezas]]. Apúntate como solicitante de piezas para que otro clon te "apadrine" y te imprima las piezas. Pero Recuerda: este apadrinamiento es voluntario. Ningún clon está obligado a imprimírtelas. Intenta contactar a través de la lista con algún clon.<br />
** La tercera opción es que se las compres a alguno de los clones, tiendas o por ebay. En el [[Bazar Jedi/es|bazar jedi]] podrás encontrar más información. Para financiarse su impresora, muchos clones están vendiendo juegos de piezas. Tu también podrás hacer lo mismo cuando la tengas montada y funcionando ;-)<br />
<br />
* '''¿Cómo empiezo?'''<br />
:Puedes empezar ojeando la wiki, para hacerte una idea de los pasos a seguir, y leyendo más en profundidad la documentación concreta del modelo de impresora que hayas escogido. Si no tienes problemas con el inglés también puedes echar un ojo a [http://reprapbook.appspot.com/ Reprapbook Introducción a las impresoras 3D open-source Reprap] y a las [http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/ Instrucciones visuales de construcción de la Prusa] pero ten en cuenta que es de Prusa 1 (obsoleta). Si no conoces algún término, puedes buscar en nuestro [[Clone_wars:_Glosario/es|glosario]].<br />
<br />
* '''¿Dónde compro el resto del material?'''<br />
:Hemos apuntado en la wiki un [[Clone_Wars:_Tiendas/es | listado de las tiendas]]. Puedes buscar en ellas. También te recomendamos que eches un vistazo a las páginas de los clones terminados (categoría Jedi o superior). Muchos están poniendo información sobre lo que se han gastado y dónde han comprado el material.<br />
<br />
* '''¡Estoy convencido! ¡Quiero construirme una Prusa 3!'''<br />
:¡Genial! Puedes encontrar la información en [[Clone wars: Prusa iteración 3|la página de la wiki]].<br />
<br />
* '''A pesar de haber una Prusa 3 ¡quiero construirme una Prusa 2!'''<br />
:¡Estupendo! Echa un vistazo a [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Guia_de_montaje_de_la_Prusa_2 estos video-tutoriales en Castellano], y no te pierdas [https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/104606827981899055492/albums/5765370304405365281 este álbum de fotos]! El listado de materiales lo tenemos [[Clone wars: Prusa Iteración 2|en esta página de la wiki]].<br />
<br />
== Lista de correo ==<br />
<br />
Antes de inscribirte en la lista de correo, por favor lee las [[Clone_Wars_Netiquette/es|normas de conducta]].<br />
<br />
Para evitar tráfico y esperas innecesarias, documéntate bien y lee el [[Clone_Wars_FAQ/es|FAQ]] antes de preguntar.<br />
<br />
[http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d Lista de correo del grupo de Impresoras 3D]. Es el grupo google que usamos para comunicarnos.<br />
<br />
== Canal de IRC ==<br />
<br />
Si el [[Clone_wars:_Glosario/es#SAV:_S.C3.ADndrome_del_Ansia_Viva|SAV]] te mata y no puedes esperar a que se te responda por la lista de correo siempre puedes intentar encontrar consuelo en el canal '''#clonewars''' del IRC, en el servidor [http://freenode.net/ freenode].<br />
<br />
Si no utilizas ningún [http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anexo:Clientes_IRC cliente de IRC], puedes acceder al canal a través del ''[http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=CloneWars&uio=Mj10cnVlJjQ9dHJ1ZSY5PXRydWU06 webchat]''.<br />
<br />
== Encargo de Piezas 3D ==<br />
<br />
¿Quieres que te imprimamos una pieza en PLA o ABS? ¡Métete en la lista o habla con nosotros, te mostraremos un presupuesto y te comentaremos como podemos imprimir tu diseño!<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
[[Clone Wars: Partes de la impresora/es | Partes de la impresora]]: En esta sección encontrarás información general acerca de las partes necesarias para construir una impresora 3D. En cada sección encontrarás consejos sobre cada una de las partes.<br />
<br />
[[Clone Wars: Modelos de impresora/es| Modelos de impresora]]: En esta sección encontrarás información concreta sobre cada modelo de impresora, y qué partes son necesarias para su construcción. A diferencia de la sección [[Clone Wars: Partes de la impresora/es | Partes de la impresora]], aquí encontrarás información sobre que piezas y cuantas unidades necesitas de cada una.<br />
<br />
[[Clone Wars FAQ/es | FAQ]]: Preguntas frecuentes. Acude aquí siempre que tengas una duda, es posible que alguien la haya tenido ya antes y haya sido documentada. Siempre que no encuentres la respuesta a tu pregunta, anota tu pregunta aquí y después pregunta en la lista, de forma que el que te conteste, también lo haga dejando constancia en la wiki, para que otros en el futuro puedan encontrar de nuevo esa respuesta.<br />
<br />
[[Clone Wars: El imperio de los clones/es | El imperio de los clones]]: En esta sección podrás ver todas las impresoras construidas hasta ahora y las que se encuentran en proceso de construcción.<br />
<br />
[[Clone_Wars_Bank/es|Banco de piezas]] y [[Bazar_Jedi/es| bazar Jedi]]: Aquí puedes encontrar tanto gente que dona piezas como que las vende. Hay piezas imprimibles y piezas no imprimibles. También puedes editar la wiki para apuntarte como solicitante de piezas.<br />
<br />
[[Clone Wars: Tiendas/es | Tiendas]]: Tiendas y otros servicios en torno al montaje de impresoras 3D<br />
<br />
[[Clone_wars:_Evolucion/es | Noticias]]: Aquí vamos escribiendo las novedades que van sucediendo en la comunidad.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/Obijuan/Clone-wars Repositorio]: Repositorio de GitHub de Clone Wars ([http://blog.darkomen.es/?p=509 Cómo usar el github de clonewars])<br />
<br />
[[Clone_Wars:_Viajes_CloneWars/es|Los viajes de Clone Wars]] --><br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=RAMPS_1.4&diff=177425RAMPS 1.42016-11-15T08:13:56Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Stepper Driver Boards */ Fix link</p>
<hr />
<div>{{RAMPS}}<br />
<br />
{{Languages|RAMPS 1.4}}<br />
<br />
{{Development<br />
|image = RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
|status = Working<br />
|name = RAMPS 1.4<br />
|description = RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu Shield<br />
Arduino MEGA based modular RepRap electronics.<br />
|license = [[GPL]]<br />
|author = johnnyr<br />
|reprap = Pololu Electronics<br />
|categories = {{tag|RAMPS}}<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br/><br />
<br />
=Summary=<br />
<br />
In RAMPS 1.4, the resistors and capacitors are now surface mount to fit more passive components. This does add another set of steps to assembly, but we stuck with larger sizes to make it fairly painless.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG<br />
Image:Arduinomega1-4connectors.png<br />
Image:RAMPS1.4schematic.png<br />
Image:Ramps_v1.4_shield_bothsides.png<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Reference board orientation is component side up, power inputs to the left.<br />
<br />
= Safety Tip =<br />
<br />
[[image:Generation3Electronics-achtung.gif|left]]<br />
<br />
Once you start putting electricity into your RepRap - even at just 12 volts - you have to take basic, common sense precautions to avoid fires. Just in case these fail, test your workshop [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_detector smoke detector]. Got no smoke detector? Get one!<br />
<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
=Assembly=<br />
==Component Soldering==<br />
==Required Tools==<br />
You must have:<br />
Solder iron, solder wire, good tweezers<br />
You really need:<br />
Solder wick, solder sucker, flux pen<br />
Optional methods use:<br />
Solder paste, hot plate or oven <br />
<br />
===Shield Assembly===<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3pasteapplied.JPG|thumb]] <br />
Soldering RAMPS 1.4 includes both surface mount and through hole soldering.<br />
<br />
The surface mount can be done a few ways. Since all the SMT components on this board are large 2 pad parts you can do pin by pin soldering pretty easy with normal soldering equipment. Start by putting a small amount of solder on one pad. If you have flux, coat the soldered pad. Use the tweezers to hold the component down in position and heat the solder to tack the component into place (make sure the entire solder blob flows so you don't get a cold solder). Then solder the other pad. Also popular is using solder paste for pad by pad soldering, Oven Reflow (need link), and [[HotplateReflowTechnique]]<br />
<br />
Solder the SMT components first. Then the PTH on top of the board. Finally solder the pin headers on the bottom.<br />
<br />
==== C2 - 100nF capacitor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100nF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
==== LED1 - Green LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 GrLED.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
==== LED2, LED3, LED4 - Red LED====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 redLEDs.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place these with the end having green dots away from the + mark on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R13, R14, R15 - 10 Ohm resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10r.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R12 - 1K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R23, R24, R25 - 1.8K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 1-8k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These are marked 1K on the PCB, but we are using larger ones to accommodate higher voltages. These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====R1, R7, R11, R21, R22 - 4.7K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4-7k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R16, R17, R18, R19, R20 - 10K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10k.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R8, R9, R10 - 100K resistor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100k.JPG |thumb]]<br />
These can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====C1, C5, C8 - 10uF capacitor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 10uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, C10 - 100uF capacitor====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 100uF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The board has the foot print of the components printed on it. The rounded corners on the base of the capacitor must line up with the white print on the PCB. <br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Reflow SMT soldering====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3_placed.JPG|200px|thumb]] [[Image:RAMPS1-3 smtSoldered.JPG|thumb]]<br />
If you are doing oven or hot plate method, now is the time apply heat (add links here). If you used a solder iron, you have probably already soldered all these components.<br />
<br />
Make sure to inspect the SMT soldering at this point since it will be harder to rework after the headers are on top.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Top pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 tpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Solder 1 1x6, 6 1x4, and 7 2x3 pin headers on top of the board. The long post should be standing up to take a connector. Solder one leg on each one to tack them into place. Then re-heat the joint and push on the component until it is perfectly situated. Then you'll want to solder the rest of the leads. You will get burnt if you touch the other side of the pin you are soldering.<br />
<br />
If you want to use the extra pin outputs, now is the time to solder on the rest of the headers.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Driver sockets====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DrSockets.JPG |thumb]]<br />
Place the female headers for the stepper drivers on top of the board. You can use the 1x8 and 1x6 pin headers to jig them straight. Turn the board over and solder these pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====D1, D2 - Diodes====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 DnF.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 and D2 diodes]]<br />
These must be placed in the proper orientation. The band on the diode must be turned the same way as the mark on the board.<br />
<br />
Definitely solder D2 in. D2, F1, and F2 are shown installed here.<br />
<br />
D1 should only be installed if the 5A rail is powered by 12V. It can be omitted and the Arduino will be powered from USB. You will want D1 installed if you add components to print without a PC. To reiterate, D1 MUST be omitted if you are powering the 5A rail by more than 12V, or the power is not absolutely clean, otherwise you may damage your ramps.<br />
<br style="clear: both" /><br />
<br />
====F1 - MFR500 Fuse====<br />
This is the smaller yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation. When soldering the fuses it is best to use a piece of 3mm filament or something similar to keep the ceramic coating on the pins from blocking proper solder along the through hole.<br />
<br />
Since the fuses are the tallest parts, it is simpler and more convenient to solder them last. From this point on, solder the rest of the RAMPS in order of bottom pins, reset switch, terminals, mosfets and then fuses.<br />
<br />
====Bottom pins====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 bpins.JPG|thumb]]<br />
[[image:DSC 0148.JPG|thumb]]<br />
Place these on the bottom of the board with the long post out to plug into the Arduino MEGA. You can plug them into the MEGA to hold them in place while you solder. Do not overheat the pins while in Arduino or you may damage its connectors.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Reset switch====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 rst.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Mosfet Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 6pos.JPG |thumb|Standard RAMPS 1.4 D8-10 Terminal Block]]<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-4 6pos_alt.png |thumb|Alternative Plug/Jack Connectors]]<br />
This must be oriented where the wire holes are turned towards the edge of the board. Solder a pin on each end and make sure the component is flat on the board and solder the middle pins.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Power Terminal====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 4pos.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This can only be oriented in one direction.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====Q1, Q2, Q3 - Mosfets====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 mosfet.JPG|thumb]]<br />
These must be orientated as in the picture. The tall heat sink part of the mosfet needs to be turned the same as the mark on the board.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
====F2 - MFR1100 Fuse====<br />
This is the larger yellow fuse. This can be placed in any orientation.<br />
<br clear="all"/><br />
<br />
====Inspection====<br />
[[Image:RAMPS1-3 fin.JPG|200px|thumb]]<br />
Inspect your work. Clean any solder bridges and suspect solders.<br />
<br />
===Stepper Driver Boards===<br />
#*Jumpers need to be installed under each stepper driver:<br />
<br />
jumper Yes/No step size<br />
1 2 3<br />
no no no full step<br />
yes no no half step<br />
no yes no 1/4 step<br />
yes yes no 1/8 step<br />
no no yes 1/16 step<br />
yes no yes 1/32 step<br />
no yes yes 1/64 step<br />
yes yes yes 1/128 step<br />
<br />
If the jumpers set it to a higher number of micro steps than supported by the driver it will operate at the maximum number of micro steps for that driver.<br />
For now the default is maximum micro stepping (all jumpers installed under drivers), which results in 1/16 micro stepping for A4988 drivers and 1/32 for DRV8825. Although for efficiency and accuracy you should opt for the biggest steps that will yield sufficient resolution. Eg. you don't need 5000 steps per millimeter and [http://www.micromo.com/microstepping-myths-and-realities micro-steps] less than 1/16 have reduced torque per step, reduced accuracy and higher driver load].<br />
<br />
Note: This can vary for different drivers.<br />
<br />
#Cut the pin headers to 8 pins long so that they fit each side of the stepper driver.<br />
#Insert the pin headers into the sockets on RAMPS<br />
#Fit the stepper drivers onto the pin headers and solder. Only heat each pin for a few seconds at time to avoid damage to the socket. <br />
#*Glue the heatsink (if used) to the top of the [[A4988]]/[[A4983]] chip using the provided pad of double-sided adhesive.<br />
<br />
===Opto Endstops===<br />
Opto endstop build instructions can be found at [[Gen7_Endstop_1.3.1]], and also [http://reprapsource.com/oe-r1 here] for reprapsource.com's instructions.<br />
#* Cut the 26awg 3 conductor cable into 3 length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConnector.JPG|right|200px|Close up of endstop connector on endstop.]]<br />
#* Note: you may want to wait until you've built your machine to cut the cables to the perfect length.[[Image:RAMPSendstopConboard.JPG|right|200px|Close up of endstop connection on RAMPS]]<br />
##* crimp and solder a female connector to the ends of each wire. (solder not necessary with proper crimp tools) <br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing.<br />
#* Connect at least the minimum endstops. <br />
{| border="1"<br />
| RAMPS End<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
| Top pin<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
| Center pin<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
| Lower pin<br />
|}<br />
{| border="1" <br />
| Endstop End<br />
|<br />
|-<br />
| VCC (+)<br />
| Red<br />
|-<br />
| SIG (S)<br />
| White<br />
|-<br />
| GND (-)<br />
| Black<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Mechanical Endstops===<br />
[[File:MechSwitches 2Wire.JPG|thumb]]<br />
The recommended firmware will provide a configuration to use mechanical endstops with just two wires. <br />
<br />
Find the area labelled "endstops" in the upper right corner of the board and for each of the X, Y, and Z pairs of pins (label should be below each set) do the following: <br />
# Connect S (top row, labelled to the left) on RAMPS to NC on the switch.<br />
# Connect GND on RAMPS to C on the switch.<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' The latest firmware such as Marlin seems to use NO as the default pin on the switch. Otherwise you may need to invert the endstops in the firmware. You can use M119 to check your endstops status.<br />
<br />
===Put the connectors on the motor wires===<br />
#* solder a female connector to the ends of each wire.<br />
#* use the 2.54mm 1x3 housing. <br />
#* Shown is the type used for servos in RC projects. See [[Stepper Motors]] for info on motors.<br />
<br />
===Thermistor Wires===<br />
Use a 2 pin 0.1" connector to terminate the thermistor wires.<br />
#* Connect the cable so the 2 wires go to T0<br />
#Connect the 2 heater wires to D10 (E0H on older boards) and the + connection above it.<br />
#* If changing to an unverified firmware it is best to verify heater circuit function with a meter before connecting heater to prevent damage to the extruder.<br />
<br />
===Pololu carriage===<br />
[[image:PololuExample.JPG|thumb]]<br />
This section assumes you are using Pololu, but there are other options. Insert two 1x8 pin headers into the board. If you bought a kit with one 16 pin header, simply cut it so that you have two 1x8. Make sure that the side with the labels has the long ends of the posts, and the side you want to solder is the side with the heat sink. Doing this backwards will cause you not to see the labels and will most likely not fit. Remember to apply a heat-sink to the largest chip on the back.<br />
<br />
Insert the motor boards with the potentiometer to the right side (furthest from the power connectors).<br />
<br />
=Final Setup=<br />
==Pre-Flight Check==<br />
If you think you may have mistakes you can install only one stepper driver during initial testing and risk only one stepper driver.<br />
<br />
The trimpot on the stepper drivers controls the current limit. Turn it all the way down (counter clock wise) and back up 25%. Be careful to not force the trimpot, it is delicate. You will need to fine tune the current limit later. Note that it is allways giving the motors that much power, even when not moving, so if your stepper motor drivers are getting hot, you may want to turn it down slightly.<br />
<br />
[http://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield#Make_the_cables_up_for_the_opto_endstops Connect the minimum endstops] for X,Y, and Z<br />
<br />
Connect Motors (Do not disconnect or connect motors while powered; if the connection is loose, this will cause the motors to spazz and possibly kill your stepper driver.)<br />
<br />
You may want to use this [http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPSTestCode.pde code] to test all the electronics before installing any of the suggested firmwares.<br />
<br />
Install firmware (More info below). Firmware flashing can be done without 12V power supply connected.<br />
<br />
==Wiring==<br />
It is relatively simple to wire up the RAMPS. Just add the extruder heating coil wire to D10, the thermistor to the two T0 pins on middle right right, and wire up the steppers and endstops. From left to right, wire all of the stepper motor's wires as red, blue, green, and black or red, green, yellow, blue into the pins next to the Pololus. When you connect the wires to the endstops (if you are using 3 endstops, plug them into the MIN (-) slots), make sure you match the labels. <br />
<br />
[[Image:Rampswire14.svg|500px|]]<br />
<br />
Note that Tesla & Tonok firmware use D9 and Sprinter, Marlin, and Johnny/Tonok use D10 for the extruder hot end.<br />
<br />
===Warnings===<br />
<br />
<font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard.<br />
<br />
Incorrectly inserting stepper drivers will destroy your electronics and cause a fire risk. Always make sure power and USB is disconnected when removing or adjusting stepper drivers. Always make sure to insert drivers in correct orientation and in the socket correctly.<br />
<br />
The endstop pins are Signal - GND - VCC, instead of the VCC - Sig - GND like the rest of RepRaps boards. Make sure to wire them correctly. This is done to allow squeezing fatter traces on the printable board.<br />
<br />
DON'T secure Arduino/RAMPS with conductive screws through both mounting holes. The screw may cut into the positive trace creating a HIGH current short.</font><br />
<br />
==Connecting Power==<br />
<br />
Connect your 12V power supply to the RAMPS shield. <font color="red">Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard</font>.<br />
<br />
The bottom pair of connectors marked 5A power the stepper drivers and Extruder heater/fan (D9, D10). The source should be rated a minimum of 5A.<br />
<br />
The pair of connectors above marked 11A power a Heated Bed, or other output (D8). The source should be rated a minimum 11A (if both power rails are connected to the same supply it should have a minimum rating of 16A).<br />
<br />
The barrel connector, on the Arduino MEGA, will NOT power RAMPS and will not provide power to the stepper motors, heated bed, etc.<br />
<br />
The power connector plug may not be obviously labeled, looking at the power connection the positive is on the left and the negative is on the right of the plug.<br />
<br />
==Power Supply==<br />
[[Image:D1D2.jpg|thumb|Where to find the D1 diode (note that D2 is shown at the left, not D1)]]<br />
RAMPS is quite happy with the 12 V line from [[PCPowerSupply]].<br />
Or you can hack up a 12V laptop power supply, or other 12 V "wall wart" power supply. <font color="red"> Make sure that the power supply can output 5A or greater.</font> Additional 11A may be needed for heated bed support.<br />
<br />
See Connecting power above.<br />
<br />
The 3 pins next to the reset switch are meant to optionally connect to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The PS_ON pin is intended to switch your power supply on and off. Many firmwares support pulling this pin low with M80 command to turn the power supply on, and M81 to turn it off. This behavior is desired for ATX power supplies and can be modified in firmware to support 5V high power supplies like those borrowed from an Xbox.<br />
<br />
Without D1 installed, or when the 12VIN is not connected, the Arduino gets its power from USB. If you want your kit powered without USB connected you need to solder in D1 OR connect VCC to your PSU.<br />
<br />
The VCC pin can be connected to your ATX's 5Vsb to continuously power the Arduino from your ATX power supply. You will want to make sure that D1 is not installed or cut out. The Arduino is not designed to be powered directly on the VCC rail and the VIN pin at the same time.<br />
<br />
If you want to use PS_ON to turn on your power supply then don't use diode D1, you need your Arduino to be powered from 5Vsb otherwise when no USB is connected the PS_ON pin floats (and your power supply pulses on and off).<br />
<br />
The 5V pin in that connector on RAMPS only supplies the 5V to the auxiliary servo connectors. It is designed so that you can jumper it to the VCC pin and use the Arduino's power supply to supply 5V for extra servos if you are only powered from USB or 5V. Since there is not a lot of extra power from the Arduino's power supply you can connect it<br />
directly to your 5V power supply if you have one. You can also leave this pin not connected if you have no plan to add extra servos.<br />
<br />
===Maximum Input Voltage===<br />
====Power Supply without diode====<br />
There are three limiting factors to the maximum voltage that you can put into the RAMPS:<br />
# The Arduino Mega maximum input voltage<br />
# Filtering capacitor maximum voltages<br />
# PTC fuse maximum voltages<br />
<br />
First, the 1N4004 diode connects the RAMPS input voltage to the Arduino Mega which has a recommended maximum input voltage of 12 volts. If your board does not have this diode soldered in (or if you cut it), you will need to power the Mega through the USB connector or through a separate 5v line, but this allows a higher RAMPS voltage.<br />
<br />
Second, most boards use 25v or 35v aluminum electrolytic capactors (C2, C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, and C10). To be safe, you should only go to half of your rated maximum voltage -- thus if your board has 35v capacitors (code VZA) then you should use a maximum input of 17.5v. The absolute maximum voltage is determined by the pololu servo drivers, which themselves are limited to 35V.<br />
<br />
Third, the MF-R500 (5A) PTC fuse is rated to 30V and the MF-R1100 (11A) PTC fuse is rated to 16V. They will need to be replaced with real fuses.<br />
<br />
====Power Supply with diode====<br />
If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in, do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not recommended.<br />
<br />
=Firmware and Pin Assignments=<br />
<br />
<font color="red">RAMPS 1.4 uses the same pin definitions as 1.3.</font><br />
<br />
You will need the Arduino software at http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software to upload the firmware to Arduino Mega. The version of Arduino you need may be determined by the firmware you want to use. The current (as of 2014-01-22) [[List_of_Firmware#Marlin|Marlin]] firmware is compatible with Arduino version 1.0.5. Some other firmwares may require Arduino software version 0023, NOT the most recent version. Please see your firmware documentations if you need assistance.<br />
<br />
Troubleshooting: You may need to make sure that the driver is installed for the Arduino MEGA by going to Control Panel -> Hardware and Sound -> Device Manager. If the device that appears/disappears when you plug in and unplug the board USB is "Unknown Device" under "Other devices", then you need to right click on the device and click the update driver button. Find where on your computer you saved/installed the Arduino software, and tell the wizard to search in the driver folder there. Windows 8 will give this error: "The third party INF does not contain digital signature". If so, save the zip for the latest version of Arduino on your PC, and repeat the steps above with the driver folder in there. It should contain the digital signature Windows needs.<br />
<br />
[[Sprinter]] and [[Marlin]] are popular and stable firmwares for RAMPS as of 3/28/2012. [[Pronterface]] is a cross platform printer control program that can be used for testing/printing.<br />
<br />
Working preconfigured '''Sprinter''' firmware can be downloaded here: [[file:UltiMachineRAMPS1-4Sprinter.zip]]. Mechanical is in the folder ending with ME, optical endstop firmware is in the folder ending in OE.<br />
<br />
Working preconfigured '''Marlin''' firmware can be downloaded at<br />
http://adf.ly/1RKUfV . is for mechanical endstops. For optical, you will need to reverse the endstop logic in configuration.h. The language of display is in italian, but can easy be changed in language.h. It is preconfigured for the RepRap Discount Smart Controller and similar LCD module. You will need to disable LCD in configuration.h if not using it.<br />
<br />
Others (Need pins set in Firmware as below):<br />
<br />
*mechanical endstops (now the default ultimachine.com option) require '''#define OPTO_PULLUPS_INTERNAL 1''' to be added to configuration.h if not there by default.<br />
<br />
Here are the pin definitions for this board.<br />
<pre><br />
// For RAMPS 1.4<br />
#define X_STEP_PIN 54<br />
#define X_DIR_PIN 55<br />
#define X_ENABLE_PIN 38<br />
#define X_MIN_PIN 3<br />
#define X_MAX_PIN 2<br />
<br />
#define Y_STEP_PIN 60<br />
#define Y_DIR_PIN 61<br />
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN 56<br />
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14<br />
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15<br />
<br />
#define Z_STEP_PIN 46<br />
#define Z_DIR_PIN 48<br />
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN 62<br />
#define Z_MIN_PIN 18<br />
#define Z_MAX_PIN 19<br />
<br />
#define E_STEP_PIN 26<br />
#define E_DIR_PIN 28<br />
#define E_ENABLE_PIN 24<br />
<br />
#define SDPOWER -1<br />
#define SDSS 53<br />
#define LED_PIN 13<br />
<br />
#define FAN_PIN 9<br />
<br />
#define PS_ON_PIN 12<br />
#define KILL_PIN -1<br />
<br />
#define HEATER_0_PIN 10<br />
#define HEATER_1_PIN 8<br />
#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
#define TEMP_1_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==Source==<br />
<br />
{|class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto;"<br />
|- style="background-color:#999999;" <br />
! FILE ID#<br />
! TYPE<br />
! DESCRIPTION<br />
! DOWNLOAD<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
| Eagle Files<br />
| These are the files you need to make the board.(Use the File: link to the left to access older versions of the file.)<br />
| [[media:ArduinoMegaPololuShield.zip]]<br />
|-<br />
|-<br />
| [[File:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
| Eagle Libraries<br />
| The components used in this board are here. see [[Eagle_Library]]<br />
| [[media:RepRapjr.lbr]]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Bill of Materials==<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
! ID<br />
! Description<br />
! Quantity<br />
! Part Number<br />
! Reichelt Order Number<br />
! Digikey Part Number (Description) <br />
|-<br />
| U1<br />
| Arduino Mega<br />
| 1<br />
|2560 or 1280<br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/A000067/1050-1018-ND/2639006 1050-1018-ND](BOARD MCU MEGA2560)<br />
|-<br />
| U2,U3,U4,U5<br />
| [[Pololu stepper driver board]]s<br />
| 4<br />
| A fifth one can be used for a 2nd extruder or extra axis<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|-<br />
| C2<br />
| 100nF capacitor (0805)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CC0805KRX7R8BB104/311-1141-1-ND/303051 311-1141-1-ND](CAP CER 0.1UF 25V 10% X7R 0805)<br />
|-<br />
| C1,C5,C8<br />
| 10uF capacitor (153CLV-0405)(>5V)<br />
| 3<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EXV106M025A9BAA/399-6724-1-ND/3082855 399-6724-1-ND](CAP ALUM 10UF 25V 20% SMD)<br />
|-<br />
| C3,C4,C6,C7,C9,C10<br />
| 100uF capacitor (153CLV-0605)(> highest planned voltage)<br />
| 6<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/EXV107M016A9GAA/399-6726-1-ND/3082857 399-6726-1-ND](CAP ALUM 100UF 16V 20% SMD)<br />
|-<br />
| R1,R7,R11,R21,R22<br />
| 4.7K resistor (0805)(1%)<br />
| 5<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=RHM4.70KAECT-ND+ RHM4.70KAECT-ND](RES 4.70K OHM .4W 1% 0805) <br />
|-<br />
| R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R8,R9,R10<br />
| 100K resistor (0805)<br />
| 8<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ESR10EZPF1003/RHM100KAECT-ND/1983806 RHM100KAECT-ND](RES 100K OHM .4W 1% 0805)<br />
|-<br />
| R12<br />
| 1K resistor (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ESR10EZPF1001/RHM1.00KAECT-ND/1983804 RHM1.00KAECT-ND](RES 1.00K OHM .4W 1% 0805)<br />
|- <br />
| R23,R24,R25<br />
| 1.8K resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RC0805FR-071K8L/311-1.80KCRCT-ND/730467 311-1.80KCRCT-ND](RES 1.80K OHM 1/8W 1% 0805)<br />
|-<br />
| R16,R17,R18,R19,R20<br />
| 10K resistor (0805)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ERJ-6ENF1002V/P10.0KCCT-ND/119248 P10.0KCCT-ND](RES 10.0K OHM 1/8W 1% 0805)<br />
|-<br />
| R13,R14,R15<br />
| 10 ohm resistor (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CRCW080510R0FKEAHP/541-10.0TCT-ND/2222835 541-10.0TCT-ND](RES 10.0 OHM .33W 1% 0805)<br />
|-<br />
| Q1,Q2,Q3<br />
| N-channel Mosfet<br />
| 3<br />
| STP55NF06L (<math>R_{DS} = 18 m\Omega</math> On) <br />
Upgrade particularly for the bed:<br />
IRLB8743PBF (<math>R_{DS} = 3.2 m\Omega</math> On) or for even more current<br />
IRLB3034PBF (<math>R_{DS} = 1.5 m\Omega</math> On)<br />
| ZXM 64N035 L3<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=497-6742-5-ND 497-6742-5-ND] (MOSFET N-CH 60V 55A TO-220)<br />
|-<br />
| D1,D2<br />
| Diode<br />
| 2<br />
| 1N4004<br />
| 1N 4004<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=1N4004FSCT-ND 1N4004FSCT-ND] (DIODE GEN PURPOSE 400V 1A DO41)<br />
|-<br />
| F1<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (30V, Hold5A, Trip10A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R500<br />
| PFRA 500<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=MF-R500-ND MF-R500-ND] (FUSE PTC RESETTABLE 5A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| F2<br />
| PTC resettable fuse (Hold11A)<br />
| 1<br />
| MF-R1100<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=RGEF1100-ND RGEF1100-ND] (POLYSWITCH RGE SERIES 11.0A HOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| J2<br />
| D8-D10 Outputs // 6 position screw terminal (min 11A per contact) OR Jack/Plug connector pair<br />
| 1<br />
| 282837-6<br />
| AKL 101-06<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7857-ND WM7857-ND] (CONN TERMINAL BLOCK 6POS 5.08MM) <br/>Alternative: 1x [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/20020109-H061A01LF/609-4284-ND/2509130 609-4284-ND] & 1x [http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=609-4218-ND&x=0&y=0&cur=USD 609-4218-ND]. [https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--1nJttlNQDs/UNfmaLXKiTI/AAAAAAAADxQ/Z6CSD4V8r6I/s617/20121223_194819.jpg May prevent overtemp events]<br />
|-<br />
| LED1<br />
| Green LED (0805)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CMD17-21VGD%2FTR8/L62505CT-ND/254936 L62505CT-ND](LED GREEN DIFF 0805 SMD)<br />
|-<br />
|LED2,LED3,LED4<br />
| Red LED (0805)<br />
| 3<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CMD17-21VRD%2FTR8/L62501CT-ND/254934 L62501CT-ND](LED HI EFF RED DIFF 0805)<br />
|-<br />
| S1<br />
| Push button switch<br />
| 1<br />
| B3F-3100 <br />
| TASTER 3305B (should fit footprint also, but button will overhang board edge)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=450-1648-ND 450-1648-ND] (SWITCH TACT RA H=6.35MM)<br />
|-<br />
| X1<br />
| Power jack (Plug and fixed receptacle)(Min 11A per position more is better)<br />
| 1<br />
| MSTBA 2,5 and MSTBT 2,5 (5.04mm spacing 4 connector)<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7847-ND WM7847-ND] (CONN HEADER 4POS 5.08MM R/A TIN) &amp; [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=WM7953-ND WM7953-ND] (CONN TERM BLOCK 4POS 5.08MM R/A)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 3 pin header<br />
| 8<br />
| 961206-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9459-ND 3M9459-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT DUAL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 4 pin header<br />
| 5<br />
| 961104-6404-AR<br />
| SL 1X36G 2,54 (3 of these)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9449-ND 3M9449-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 4POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 pin header<br />
| 2 (? - from http://gala-automation.com/index.php/component/content/article/26-reprap-tutorials/42-ramps-14-bom)<br />
| 961106-6404-AR<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=3M9451-ND 3M9451-ND] (CONN HEADER VERT SGL 6POS GOLD)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 2 x 18 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
| <br />
| MALE: SL 2X25G 2,54 (2 of them, shortened with a saw or pliers)<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7121-ND S7121-ND] (CONN HEADER FMAL 36PS.1" DL GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 5<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 6 Pin Stackable Female Header (non stackables can be used with plated through holes)<br />
| 1<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7039-ND S7039-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 6POS .1" GOLD) - Not Stackable<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 24 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 2<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7057-ND S7057-ND] (CONN HEADER FMALE 24POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| 8 Pin Female Header * Note *<br />
| 4<br />
| Required to carry enough current for motors<br />
| <br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=S7041-ND S7041-ND] (CONN HEADER FEMALE 8POS .1" GOLD) - Rated @ 3A / Pin<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| 0.1" Jumpers<br />
| 15<br />
|<br />
|<br />
| [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&KeyWords=A26242-ND A26242-ND] (SHUNT LP W/HANDLE 2 POS 30AU)<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
| Circuit Board<br />
|1<br />
|v1.4<br />
|<br />
|N/A<br />
|}<br />
Note * You can use Female Headers which are not the exact size, but they are hard to break/cut so in this case buy some extra! (one wasted header per cut)<br />
<br />
A BOM for sourcing the RAMPS components from Mouser is also available in [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Auf-66FPv0JidHhtRVB0VVplOURwWklrX0tIeXhsS3c&hl=en_US#gid=0 this google spreadsheet] (This list is incomplete and has missing or incorrect quantities.)<br />
<br />
Shopping lists for v1.4 [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=d126a71257] .<br />
<br />
= BT Extension =<br />
: ''main article: [[jy-mcu]]''<br />
In order to get rid of the USB connection between RAMPS and the PC, you may like to use Bluetooth. There is a cheap module available in the market called 'JY-MCU' (vendor Shenzhen Jiayuan Electronic Co.,Ltd.).<br />
<br />
[[File:jy-mcu_f.jpg|300px]] [[File:jy-mcu_b.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Change module setting==<br />
Before the module can be used, the default setting has to be changed. You can connect to and modify the BT JY-MCU module settings via the Arduino mega 2560 using the pin 10 and pin 9 as Rx and Tx terminals, respectively. Make sure you connect Rx on the BT module to the Tx on the arduino and vice versa, in other words Rx goes to Tx and vice versa. Upload the simple code to arduino located on an instructable entitled "Success-Using-the-JY-MCU-linvor-Bluetooth-Module". Use the serial monitor within arduino IDE or another terminal program, with baudrate set to 9600 and 'No Line Ending' selected, enter the following commands: <br />
<br />
AT - the response should be OK (If you see weird characters, the baudrate is wrong--> try a different one<br />
<br />
AT+NAMExxxx - Where xxxx is the friendly name of the module<br />
<br />
AT+BAUDx - Where x sets the baud rate (values & baud rates below)<br />
<br />
AT+VERSION - Returns the firmware version<br />
<br />
AT+PINxxxx - Sets a new pairing code (default: 1234)<br />
<br />
1——1200 <br />
2——2400 <br />
3——4800 <br />
4——9600 <br />
5——19200 <br />
6——38400 <br />
7——57600 <br />
8——115200<br />
<br />
Alternatively, you can connect to the module from PC via USB<->RS232 (RxD/TxD) interface with default settings (9600, N, 8, 1). The module shouldn't be paired at that moment. Use the same AT commands as above.<br />
<br />
More details about the configuration you will find here [[http://reprap.org/wiki/Melzi#Connect_via_Bluetooth]]<br />
<br />
Troubleshooting:<br />
If you see weird characters, the baudrate is wrong--> try a different one<br />
Make sure your Tx and Rx are not mixed up<br />
Make sure you have the proper resistors installed<br />
<br />
==Wiring==<br />
On RAMPS/Arduino Mega the UART level are 5V but the BT module supports only 3.3V input. Therefore the TxD level has to be divided by resistor. This passive solution is fast enough for 115kBaud. Overall only 4 wires have to be soldered. <br />
<br />
[[File:BT_Connection_RAMPS1.4.png|400px]]<br />
<br />
==Connect via Bluetooth==<br />
Once you have setup your BT devices you can select from drop down list and control your RepRap as usual.<br />
<br />
==RAMPS 1.4 test code==<br />
<br />
#define X_STEP_PIN 54<br />
#define X_DIR_PIN 55<br />
#define X_ENABLE_PIN 38<br />
#define X_MIN_PIN 3<br />
#define X_MAX_PIN 2<br />
<br />
#define Y_STEP_PIN 60<br />
#define Y_DIR_PIN 61<br />
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN 56<br />
#define Y_MIN_PIN 14<br />
#define Y_MAX_PIN 15<br />
<br />
#define Z_STEP_PIN 46<br />
#define Z_DIR_PIN 48<br />
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN 62<br />
#define Z_MIN_PIN 18<br />
#define Z_MAX_PIN 19<br />
<br />
#define E_STEP_PIN 26<br />
#define E_DIR_PIN 28<br />
#define E_ENABLE_PIN 24<br />
<br />
#define Q_STEP_PIN 36<br />
#define Q_DIR_PIN 34<br />
#define Q_ENABLE_PIN 30<br />
<br />
#define SDPOWER -1<br />
#define SDSS 53<br />
#define LED_PIN 13<br />
<br />
#define FAN_PIN 9<br />
<br />
#define PS_ON_PIN 12<br />
#define KILL_PIN -1<br />
<br />
#define HEATER_0_PIN 10<br />
#define HEATER_1_PIN 8<br />
#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
#define TEMP_1_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING<br />
<br />
void setup() {<br />
pinMode(FAN_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(HEATER_0_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(HEATER_1_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(LED_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
<br />
pinMode(X_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(X_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(X_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
<br />
pinMode(Y_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(Y_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(Y_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
<br />
pinMode(Z_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(Z_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(Z_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
<br />
pinMode(E_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(E_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(E_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
<br />
pinMode(Q_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(Q_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(Q_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT);<br />
<br />
digitalWrite(X_ENABLE_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(Y_ENABLE_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(Z_ENABLE_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(E_ENABLE_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(Q_ENABLE_PIN , LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop () {<br />
<br />
if (millis() %1000 <500) <br />
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH);<br />
else<br />
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW);<br />
<br />
if (millis() %1000 <300) {<br />
digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, LOW);<br />
} else if (millis() %1000 <600) {<br />
digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, LOW);<br />
} else {<br />
digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, HIGH);<br />
}<br />
<br />
if (millis() %10000 <5000) {<br />
digitalWrite(X_DIR_PIN , HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(Y_DIR_PIN , HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(Z_DIR_PIN , HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(E_DIR_PIN , HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(Q_DIR_PIN , HIGH);<br />
}<br />
else {<br />
digitalWrite(X_DIR_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(Y_DIR_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(Z_DIR_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(E_DIR_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(Q_DIR_PIN , LOW);<br />
} <br />
<br />
digitalWrite(X_STEP_PIN , HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(Y_STEP_PIN , HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(Z_STEP_PIN , HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(E_STEP_PIN , HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(Q_STEP_PIN , HIGH); <br />
delay(1);<br />
<br />
digitalWrite(X_STEP_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(Y_STEP_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(Z_STEP_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(E_STEP_PIN , LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(Q_STEP_PIN , LOW); <br />
}<br />
<br />
=Where to get=<br />
* [http://www.reprap.cc/shop/de/content/ramps-14 Reprap Austria] (worldwide free shipping)<br />
* [http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/printer-electronics/ramps.html Maker Farm Inc] USA - (worldwide shipping)<br />
* [http://store.thingibox.com/es/electricidad/38-ramps_14.html Thingibox] Spain - (worldwide shipping)<br />
* [http://www.reprap.me/electronic/ramps.html RepRap.me Denmark] (worldwide shipping)<br />
* [https://www.tindie.com/products/staticboards/ramps-14-sb-premium/ RAMPS 1.4 Manufactured in Europe with high quality parts for long printing hours] - (worldwide shipping)<br />
* [https://taotac.com/sanpham/ramps/ TaoTac.com]<br />
* [http://www.reprap.cn/fully-completed-assembly-ramps-14-controller-board-p-52.html HE3D]<br />
* [http://twelvepro.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=83 Twelvepro]<br />
* [https://www.fabberworld.com/ramps-1-4 Fabberworld]<br />
* [http://aus3d.com.au/printer-parts/printer-electronics/ramps-14 Aus3D]<br />
* [https://www.diy-india.com DIY-India.com] (India)<br />
<br />
=RAMPS 1.4.2=<br />
<br />
[[Image:RAMPS_1.4.2.jpg|800x513px|RAMPS 1.4.2]]<br />
<br />
RAMPS 1.4.2 has minor changes over RAMPS 1.4. The RAMPS 1.4.2 has below enhancements over 1.4<br />
<br />
* Standard blade fuses instead of thermal fuses increasing the heat resilience.<br />
* Current carrying improved by increasing the thickness of the cooper at the PCB from 35 to 70 micro meters.<br />
* Suppression caps added to each end-stop to avoid spurious signals.<br />
* Added an additional connector to XY, E1 and E2 to connect a second stepper motor.<br />
* Connector for external reset added.<br />
* Labeled D8, D9,D10 with Heatbed, Extruder 1 Fan and Extruder 2.<br />
<br />
Eagle CAD files: [https://github.com/GermanRepRap/Ramps-1.4.2 https://github.com/GermanRepRap/Ramps-1.4.2]<br />
<br />
==Where to buy RAMPS 1.4.2==<br />
<br />
<br />
Fully assembled available from [http://www.germanreprap.com German RepRap]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Example.jpeg&diff=176496File:Example.jpeg2016-09-02T07:34:12Z<p>XoanSampaiño: XoanSampaiño uploaded a new version of &quot;File:Example.jpeg&quot;: Reverted to version as of 10:31, 4 September 2008</p>
<hr />
<div>RepRap 3D printer detail</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Category:Development&diff=176495Category:Development2016-09-02T07:30:13Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Reverted edits by Lou (talk) to last revision by Glenn</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|:Category:Development}}<br />
{{Portal Header}}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Example.jpg|right|thumb|525px|An Extruder Design on a Reprap Darwin]]<br />
<br />
This page aims to contain links to all RepRap '''related''' development. This is the leading-edge and experimental part of the RepRap experience!<br />
<br />
== How you can help? ==<br />
<br />
You are encouraged to add RepRap- and RepStrap-related work, even if you didn't initially create it; just make sure to attribute it appropriately. Please also include as many pictures and diagrams as you can. These really help understanding.<br />
<br />
Adding development work from the [http://blog.reprap.org/ Main Blog], the [http://builders.reprap.org/ Builder's Blog] and the [http://forums.reprap.org/ Forums] so that new RepRappers can find it is especially appreciated.<br />
<br />
If you have bunch of good ideas for making RepRap better, but you want to focus on just one of them, you can drop off the other good ideas at [[Wanted Objects]] or [[Ideas to place]].<br />
<br />
==How To Add a Development==<br />
A "development" page shows all current and previous development for an experiment related to the Reprap project. '''This''' is the place to put your build logs and to document your research; You will reach a much larger audience if you post a "development" page on the RepRap.org wiki, rather than in your personal blog, and the wiki framework allows others to contribute and expand on your ideas. <br />
<br />
The list at the bottom of '''this''' page shows all the development pages currently on the RepRap.org wiki.<br />
<br />
If you have never contributed to a wiki, first try filling out your user page. That should give you an introduction into how to edit pages. In fact, you might want to use your user page to get everything formatted the way you would like, upload your pictures and such, and then just copy it into it's own page when you are satisfied and ready to 'publish'.<br />
<br />
If you have a project that needs it's own page, just type its name into your browser navigation toolbar like this: <br />
<nowiki>http://reprap.org/wiki/My_Development_Page_Name</nowiki> <br />
and hit return.<br />
<br />
It's best to pick a unique name, but also try to get a feel for the current naming conventions before settling on a specific name.<br />
* Discussion regarding [[Electronics Naming Conventions]]<br />
<br />
If you choose a name that's already taken by someone else, that page will come up so you will know. If your name is new, you'll get instructions. Click on "edit this page".<br />
<br />
==Infobox==<br />
All development pages are identified by an info box in the upper right of page. <br />
To add an empty infobox to your page (and appear in the list below) add:<br />
<nowiki><br />
{{Development:Stub}} //identifies pages under construction. remove when the page is relatively stable.<br />
{{Development}} </nowiki><br />
<br />
To the top of your page. You will want to add '''info''' into this infobox, of course. The Info box, like anything on a wiki, is constantly being modified and improved, so for a list of Infobox template parameters, go to the [[Template:Development]] page.<br />
<br />
==Other useful templates==<br />
Other templates can be added to a page as well. you can use them as flags to alert other users to issues with a page, or of upcoming changes.<br />
Templates can be added by putting <nowiki>{{ currly brackets }}</nowiki> around the template name. Some templates have useful parameters, so it's best to check the template page for more detailed instructions.<br />
* [[:Template:Move_Proposal]] - Add this to the top of a page that you think needs a better title. Click through for usage instructions.<br />
* [[:Template:Development:Stub]] - Pages under construction. see the list of stubs [[:Category:Development Stubs|here]].<br />
* [[:Template:MultiDevelopment]] - Pages containing multiple developments that need to be split up. See the list [[:Category:MultiDevelopment|here]].<br />
<br />
[[Category:Categories]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Slic3r_Tutorials&diff=169393Slic3r Tutorials2016-01-26T17:19:04Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Create3d */ -> gCreate3D</p>
<hr />
<div>The following are links to tutorials for [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r], a g-code generator for 3D printers.<br />
<br />
If find excellent Slic3r tutorials and videos that are not linked here, please add them, or post them to [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?263,615090 this thread].<br />
<br />
==<br>Official Manual and Tutorials==<br />
* [http://manual.slic3r.org/ The Slic3r Manual]<br />
* [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/wiki/Calibration Calibrating Extrusion Multiplier ]<br />
* [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/wiki/FAQ Slic3r FAQ]<br />
* [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/wiki/Documentation Useful documentation for getting started and using Slic3r]<br />
<br />
==Bug Reports and Current Issues==<br />
* [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/blob/master/CONTRIBUTING.md Quick guide to writing good bug reports]<br />
* [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues List of Reported Issues]<br />
<br />
==Tutorials here on RepRap.Org==<br />
* [http://reprap.org/wiki/Retraction_Tuning_With_Slic3r Retraction Tuning with Slic3r]<br />
<br />
==Third Party Tutorials==<br />
<br />
===Richrap===<br />
* [http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html Slic3r is Nicer - Part 1 - Settings and Extruder Calibration]<br />
* [http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-2-filament-and.html Slic3r is Nicer - Part 2 - filament and printing]<br />
* [http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-3-how-low-can-you.html Slic3r is Nicer - Part 3 - How low can you go?]<br />
* [http://richrap.blogspot.com/2015/01/slic3r-advanced-perimeter-tuning-3d.html Slic3r - Advanced perimeter tuning - 3D Printing tutorial]<br />
<br />
===Make Magazine===<br />
* [http://makezine.com/projects/getting-started-with-slic3r/ Getting Started with Slic3r]<br />
<br />
==Third Party Videos==<br />
<br />
===ZenmasterM===<br />
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo&index=2&list=PLU2kePyB_WAanJvtjJGZI7l0GjY7uQJHo&ab_channel=ZennmasterM RepRap 101: Setting your 3D printer's extrusion Part 1: E-steps (not slicer specific)]<br />
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA&list=PLU2kePyB_WAanJvtjJGZI7l0GjY7uQJHo&index=3&ab_channel=ZennmasterM RepRap 101: Setting your 3D printer's extrusion Part 2: Fine Tuning (with Slic3r)]<br />
<br />
===gCreate3D===<br />
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGeuf9qn73o&ab_channel=gCreate3D Slic3r 1.1.7 Tutorial Part 1 - Setup and Overview (27 minutes)]<br />
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFygiKOB0p8&ab_channel=gCreate3D Slic3r 1.1.7 Tutorial Part 2 - Time to Slice and Print (38 minutes)]<br />
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmFrffDxULE&ab_channel=gCreate3D Slic3r 1.1.7 Tutorial Part 3 - Advanced Techniques (45 minutes)]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tutorials]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Slic3r_Tutorials&diff=169392Slic3r Tutorials2016-01-26T17:14:13Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Wiki Formatting</p>
<hr />
<div>The following are links to tutorials for [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r], a g-code generator for 3D printers.<br />
<br />
If find excellent Slic3r tutorials and videos that are not linked here, please add them, or post them to [http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?263,615090 this thread].<br />
<br />
==<br>Official Manual and Tutorials==<br />
* [http://manual.slic3r.org/ The Slic3r Manual]<br />
* [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/wiki/Calibration Calibrating Extrusion Multiplier ]<br />
* [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/wiki/FAQ Slic3r FAQ]<br />
* [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/wiki/Documentation Useful documentation for getting started and using Slic3r]<br />
<br />
==Bug Reports and Current Issues==<br />
* [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/blob/master/CONTRIBUTING.md Quick guide to writing good bug reports]<br />
* [https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues List of Reported Issues]<br />
<br />
==Tutorials here on RepRap.Org==<br />
* [http://reprap.org/wiki/Retraction_Tuning_With_Slic3r Retraction Tuning with Slic3r]<br />
<br />
==Third Party Tutorials==<br />
<br />
===Richrap===<br />
* [http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html Slic3r is Nicer - Part 1 - Settings and Extruder Calibration]<br />
* [http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-2-filament-and.html Slic3r is Nicer - Part 2 - filament and printing]<br />
* [http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-3-how-low-can-you.html Slic3r is Nicer - Part 3 - How low can you go?]<br />
* [http://richrap.blogspot.com/2015/01/slic3r-advanced-perimeter-tuning-3d.html Slic3r - Advanced perimeter tuning - 3D Printing tutorial]<br />
<br />
===Make Magazine===<br />
* [http://makezine.com/projects/getting-started-with-slic3r/ Getting Started with Slic3r]<br />
<br />
==Third Party Videos==<br />
<br />
===ZenmasterM===<br />
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo&index=2&list=PLU2kePyB_WAanJvtjJGZI7l0GjY7uQJHo&ab_channel=ZennmasterM RepRap 101: Setting your 3D printer's extrusion Part 1: E-steps (not slicer specific)]<br />
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA&list=PLU2kePyB_WAanJvtjJGZI7l0GjY7uQJHo&index=3&ab_channel=ZennmasterM RepRap 101: Setting your 3D printer's extrusion Part 2: Fine Tuning (with Slic3r)]<br />
<br />
===Create3d===<br />
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGeuf9qn73o&ab_channel=gCreate3D Slic3r 1.1.7 Tutorial Part 1 - Setup and Overview (27 minutes)]<br />
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFygiKOB0p8&ab_channel=gCreate3D Slic3r 1.1.7 Tutorial Part 2 - Time to Slice and Print (38 minutes)]<br />
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmFrffDxULE&ab_channel=gCreate3D Slic3r 1.1.7 Tutorial Part 3 - Advanced Techniques (45 minutes)]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tutorials]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Bazar_Jedi/es&diff=169391Bazar Jedi/es2016-01-26T17:06:08Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Ofertas */ Actualización de fecha y ofertas</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Bazar_Jedi}}<br />
[[File:WattosShop.jpg|thumb|250px]]<br />
== Introducción ==<br />
<br />
Además de las donaciones, algunos clones ponen a la venta juegos de piezas para financiarse sus impresoras (o sus frikadas varias).<br />
<br />
:¿Te quieres construir un Clon? Busca las ofertas en el Bazar Jedi.<br />
:¿Te has construido un clon? Pon tus ofertas en el Bazar Jedi.<br />
<br />
== Ofertas ==<br />
<br />
Apúntate aquí para vender tus piezas impresas. <br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" <br />
|- style="background:#8da7d6;"<br />
! Nombre !! Fecha Oferta !! Url/email !! Comentarios !! Estado<br />
|---------<br />
| [[User:XoanSampaiño|Xoan Sampaiño]] (A Coruña)<br />
| 26/01/2016<br />
| [mailto:xoansampainho@gmail.com xoansampainho@gmail.com]<br />
| <gallery id="Ofertas-Xoan" widths=100px heights=100px perrow=6><br />
File:CWBazar-Xoan-Prusa_i3-01.jpg|[[Prusa i3]] «single frame» (PLA negro).<br />
File:CWBazar-Xoan-Rostock-01.jpg|[[Rostock]]/[[Rostock mini]] (PLA naranja).<br />
File:CWBazar-Xoan-Rostock.jpg|[[Rostock]]/[[Rostock mini]] (PLA negro, gris y amarillo).<br />
File:CWBazar-Xoan-FoldaRap.jpg|[[FoldaRap]] (PLA negro, gris y amarillo).<br />
</gallery><br />
Juegos de piezas '''impresas a 0.25mm/30%''':<br />
* [[Prusa i3]]: '''27,50€''' («single frame»), '''32,50€''' («box frame»)<br />
* [[P3Steel]]: '''17,50€'''<br />
<br />
Consultar por correo electrónico para otros modelos ([[Rostock]]/[[Rostock mini]], [[FoldaRap]], [[Smartrap_mini|Smartrap]], etc...)<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Julian Garcia<br />
| 24/03/2014<br />
| [mailto:juliangarfin@gmail.com juliangarfin@gmail.com]<br />
| Imprimo juegos de piezas. Varios colores todo en ABS. I3 (Single Frame, Box y Rework)-27€, I2-33€, I3 Steel 13€. Envio certificado incluido(Con número de seguimiento).Consultar para otros modelos o proyectos. Pagos por transferencia o Paypal.<br />
[[File:TRES IT2.jpg|450px|thumb||]]<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| VaeNKiel<br />
| 19/07/2014<br />
| [mailto:franamigos@gmail.com franamigos@gmail.com]<br />
| Marco de madera (madera de 18 mm de grosor), Juego de piezas plásticas en color verde para Prusa IT3. Juego de barras a la medida adecuada. Correas, Rodamientos lineales y cojinetes (Los que hacen falta para la estructura, ya colocados en las piezas). Opcional: Cadena para recoger los cables del extrusor en color azul, soporte para ventilador de filamento en color negro y carcasa para LCD en color naranja (Incluido en el precio si el interesado lo quiere).<br />
Precio: Kit completo '''85€, gastos de envío incluidos en el precio'''. <br />
[[File:Kit_VaeNkiel.jpg|150px|thumb||]]<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Antoniobeta<br />
| 18/07/2014<br />
| [mailto:beta341997@gmail.com beta341997@gmail.com]<br />
<br />
|Juego de piezas para la Prusa i3 Steel--> '''8.50€''' más envios, 5€ el certificado. El color será el que tenga disponible.<br />
<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Emilio Grande<br />
| 19/06/2014<br />
| [mailto:emilio_grande@yahoo.es emilio_grande@yahoo.es]<br />
| Prusa i3 Single Frame, marco metacrilato, extrusor J-Head con relé para activación de cama caliente, tensor en correa eje x y ajuste de precisión mediante tornillo del eje z '''400€'''<br />
[[File:P5134392.JPG|thumb]][https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_cj9RzOtJDJLVBjTWhyQmhfc00&usp=sharing más fotos]<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Rubén García<br />
| 23/05/2014<br />
| zion89@gmail.com<br />
| Impresora 3D Prusa Mendel i3 Custom completa y funcional.<br />
<br />
-Extrusor budas nozzle V2.0 con cabezal de 0.3mm, 0.4mm y 0.5mm para filamento de 3mm.<br />
<br />
-Electrónica: Arduino Mega 2560 R3 y Ramps 1.4.<br />
<br />
-Tensor automático de correas.<br />
<br />
-Pantalla LCD con ranura SD integrada para imprimir desde la misma tarjeta SD.<br />
<br />
-Proporciones: Imprime piezas de 20cm de largo, 20cm de ancho y 25cm de alto.<br />
<br />
[[File:Prusa Mendel i3 Custom.jpg|150px|thumb||]]<br />
<br />
-Datos: La vendo por empezar nuevos proyectos con impresoras cada vez con más capacidad de impresión. La impresora está calibrada pero si se envía habrá que volver a ponerla a punto. He imprimido bastantes juegos de piezas y miscelánea. <br />
<br />
-Precio: 450€ negociables. Gastos de envío a cargo del comprador dependiendo del servicio que prefiera. Se acepta entrega en mano en Cartagena, Murcia.<br />
<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Ark<br />
| 15/05/2014<br />
| [mailto:ark2droid@gmail.com ark2droid@gmail.com]<br />
| Panel LCD para impresión autónoma '''30€''' G.E .no incluido.<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Ark<br />
| 15/05/2014<br />
| [mailto:ark2droid@gmail.com ark2droid@gmail.com]<br />
| Un juego de 2 poleas y tres trozos de correa T2.5 (76cm+70cm+55cm) '''12,50€''' G.E. incluido.<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Emilio Grande<br />
| 15/05/2014<br />
| [mailto:emilio_grande@yahoo.es emilio_grande@yahoo.es]<br />
| Prusa i3 Single Frame, marco metacrilato, extrusor J-Head con relé para activación de cama caliente, tensor en correa eje x y ajuste de precisión mediante tornillo del eje z '''475€'''<br />
[[File:P5134392.JPG|thumb]][https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_cj9RzOtJDJLVBjTWhyQmhfc00&usp=sharing más fotos]<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Alejandro Nieto<br />
| 12/02/2015<br />
| [mailto:ahtly89@gmail.com ahtly89@gmail.com]<br />
<br />
| Kits de piezas para distintas impresoras (envío incluido):<br />
* ''' Prusa it3 box frame ''' --> 25€<br />
* ''' Prusa it3 single frame ''' --> 25€<br />
* ''' Prusa it3 steel ''' --> 15€<br />
(Para otros modelos envíame un correo y negociamos).<br />
[[File:IMG_20140109_154534.jpg|100px|thumb|right|Kit de piezas prusa i3 single frame]][[File:IMG_20140307_123903.jpg|100px|thumb|left|kit de piezas prusa i3 box frame]]<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| luebsgrafic<br />
| 07/02/2014<br />
| [http://www.ebay.es/usr/luebsgrafic ebay]<br />
[mailto:luebsgrafic@gmail.com luebsgrafic@gmail.com]<br />
| Piezas Impresas para Prusa I3 en azul. Envio al día siguiente despues del pago. Correo Ordinario.<br />
[[File:Piezas prusa i3.JPG|150px|thumb||]]<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Manuel<br />
| 04/12/2013<br />
| [mailto:mcr16986@gmail.com mcr16986@gmail.com]<br />
[http://www.ebay.es/sch/mcr_86/m.html?item=141150181607&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 eBay]<br />
<br />
| Juego de piezas imprimibles para Prusa i3. '''30€ envío certificado incluido'''<br />
Juego de piezas imprimibles para Prusa i2. '''38€ envío certificado incluido'''<br />
<br />
Acepto pago por transferencia bancaria y PayPal. <br />
[[File:prusai3parts.JPG|150px|thumb||]]<br />
| Disponible (Envio Inmediato)<br />
|---------<br />
| ark<br />
| 27/09/2013<br />
| [mailto:ark2droid@gmail.com ark2droid@gmail.com]<br />
| Juego de piezas imprimibles para Prusa i3. '''32€ envío certificado incluido''' (28€ recogida en Tarragona) [[File:ark_prusa_parts.jpg|150px|thumb||]]<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Macnetic<br />
| 10/08/2013<br />
| [mailto:mnetic@gmail.com mnetic@gmail.com] <br />
| Juegos de piezas Reprap Prusa iteration2 con jonaskuehling extruder + Z stabilizers. 45 € envio incluido. Excelente calidad.<br />
[[File:Juegopiezas.JPG|150px|thumb||]]<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Victor Cordoba<br />
| 14/07/2013<br />
| reprap3d.es[arroba]gmail[punto]com<br />
[https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d/VbJZbC6Aqvw Precios]<br />
<br />
| Venta de rodamientos, motores nema 17, finales de carrera, acopladores de eje 5x8<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| CUIDAOKVOY (Javier Palao)<br />
| 07/07/2013<br />
| [mailto:cuidaokvoy@gmail.com cuidaokvoy@gmail.com]<br />
| Vendo piezas impresas para Prusa I3+extrusor 35€ envio incluido (azul o rojo envio en 24h). Tambien imprimo piezas para cualquier impresora y juegos de varillas.<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| aliveandwell (Eduardo Dávila)<br />
| 28/06/2013<br />
| [mailto:edudavilagda@gmail.com edudavilagda@gmail.com]<br />
| Juego de piezas impresas para Prusa I2+extrusor en colores blanco, negro o rojo a elegir. También se aceptan pedidos para otros modelos de impresora o colores. Precio según destino. En Tenerife posibilidad de entrega en mano.<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| jjviton<br />
| 26/05/2013<br />
| [mailto:jjviton@hotmail.com jjviton@hotmail.com] (Madrid)<br />
| Kit piezas printrbotv2. 25€<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| ark<br />
| 21/05/2013<br />
| [mailto:ark2droid@gmail.com ark2droid@gmail.com]<br />
| Atmega1284p con bootloader para Sanguinololu y Gen7. '''6€''' (envío por carta ordinária incluido). Ofrezco envío certificado por 2€ más.<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| LUCAS DLR (RepRap Z)<br />
| 10/04/2013<br />
| [mailto:ldp95tecnologies@gmail.com ldp95tecnologies(@)gmail.com]<br />
En la [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d/dcNTLP-BOwk lista de Clone Wars]<br />
o [http://ebay.eu/1fyvySA en eBay]<br />
| KIT Electrónica Ramps 1.4 Beduino Mega 2560, Cables y mas. 85 € [[File:kitramps.JPG|150px|thumb||]]<br />
| Disponibles<br />
|---------<br />
| Xherry<br />
| 01/05/2013<br />
| sgazagra@gmail.com <br />
http://ebay.eu/1edRYL6<br />
| Kits de varillas cortadas a medida para diferentes tipos de impresora. AHORA TAMBIÉN KITS COMPLETOS DE VARILLAS + PIEZAS IMPRESAS. Descuentos por compra a través de la lista de correo clonewars.<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Marco Esteban Illescas<br />
| 16/04/2013<br />
| marco.esteban.illescas@gmail.com<br />
|Piezas it 2 + Jonaskuehling -> 35 € <br />
Piezas it 3 (Single o Box Frame) + Extrusor -> 30 €<br />
<br />
Envío (a todo el mundo!), 5 € si es a España (islas incluídas)<br />
| Disponibles<br />
|---------<br />
| AkiLeon<br />
| 01/04/2013<br />
| josegabino@gmail.com<br />
| Correas '''T2.5''' ==> '''1-2m: 3,5€/m''' *** '''3-4m: 3,25€/m''' *** '''5m o más: 3,00€/m'''<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| Luis Moreno<br />
| 31/01/2013<br />
| luismorenolucas@gmail.com<br />
| juego 5 motores nema 17 model 42byghw609 hago trueque por piezes de prusa interacion 2<br />
| Cambiado<br />
|---------<br />
| paclema<br />
| 27/10/2012<br />
| http://ebay.eu/19hIwm6<br />
| Prusa Mendel Iteración 2 + Jonaskuehling extruder de pata negra<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| paclema<br />
| 28/10/2012<br />
| http://ebay.eu/14XKQyT<br />
| PanelMax<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
| paclema<br />
| 28/10/2012<br />
| http://ebay.eu/13cKx29<br />
| Prusa Mendel Iteración 2 + Jonaskuehling extruder en azul<br />
| Disponible<br />
|---------<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Community_portal&diff=169112Community portal2016-01-21T13:32:57Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Vandalism: Undo revision 166684 by Rapper2016 (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages}}<br />
{{Portal Header}}<br />
<br />
<br />
{{RepRapWiki Meta Header}}<br />
<br />
<div style="border-bottom:1px solid #DDD; border-right:1px solid #DDD; margin-right:-1px;"><br />
<div style="border:1px solid #AAA; background-color:#FFFFFF; padding-left:6px;"><br />
<div style="float:right; background-color:#F7F7F7; padding:10px; padding-right:20px; border-left:1px solid #CCC; border-bottom:1px solid #DDD; border-right:1px solid #DDD; border-top:1px solid #FAFAFA; margin-left:50px;"><br />
<div style="font-size:90%; text-align:center;">'''Contents'''</div><br />
<div style="text-align:left;"><br />
[[#Getting involved|1 Getting involved]]<br /><br />
[[#Helping out|2 Helping out]]<br /><br />
[[#Blogs and Resources|3 Blogs and Resources]]<br />
</div></div><br />
<h1 style="margin-top:.1em; padding-left:5px; text-align:left; margin-bottom:.2em; border-bottom:0; font-weight:bold;"><br />
Community portal<br />
</h1><br />
<div style="font-size:120%; margin-bottom:10px; text-align:left; padding-right:5%; line-height:150%; color:#222; padding-left:5px;">Welcome to the community portal. This is the place to find out what is happening in the RepRap project. Get in contact with fellow RepRappers, learn what tasks need to be done and share news about recent events or current activities taking place in the RepRap universe.<br />
</div><div style="clear:both;"></div></div></div><br />
__NOTOC__<br />
<br />
== Getting involved ==<br />
<br />
We have various choices for communications, pick your favourite(s).<br />
<br />
==== Forum ====<br />
<br />
The '''[http://forums.reprap.org/ RepRap community forum]''' has a lot of information of current RepRap community events. It is a good place to get in touch and collaborate with RepRappers across the world. There is a certain amount of redundancy in the forum and IRC but it seems to work out.<br />
<br />
==== Mailing Lists ====<br />
<br />
RepRap hosts two mailing lists open to everybody, '''[http://reprap.org/mailman/listinfo/reprap-users reprap-users]''' and '''[http://reprap.org/mailman/listinfo/reprap-dev reprap-dev]'''.<br />
<br />
For more details and backgrounds, see [[Mailing Lists]].<br />
<br />
==== Internet Relay Chat (IRC) ====<br />
<br />
The internet relay chat (IRC) '''channel [irc://chat.freenode.net/#reprap #RepRap] on freenode''' is a fairly active community gathering point for many RepRappers. If you need specific help or want to get involved the IRC channel is a good place to do so.<br />
<br />
If you are unfamiliar with IRC you can use your web browser. Just click http://webchat.freenode.net/?channels=reprap to join the channel. IRC hosts a bot, ''kthx'', collecting knowledge snippets: http://bot.kthx.nl/bot/factoid<br />
<br />
[[IRC | More Details on IRC]], including country-specific channels.<br />
<br />
==== Local User Groups and Hackerspaces ====<br />
<br />
Of particular interest for new RepRappers is the [http://forums.reprap.org/index.php?19 RepRap User Group (RUG) forums] which provide local hubs for RepRappers. If you are looking to find local help building a RepRap your local [http://forums.reprap.org/index.php?19 RUG forum] or [http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/List_of_Hacker_Spaces hackerspace] may be the best place to start.<br />
<br />
There are also [[:Category:RUG|RUG wiki pages]] available for some of the RUGs, although many of these are incomplete.<br />
<br />
==Helping out==<br />
: ''Main: [[RepRap help]]''<br />
===Development===<br />
The RepRap project is community driven so helping out can be as simple as making a new extension and blogging about it or posting it in the [[:Category:Development|Development Catalog]].<br />
<br />
Official software and hardware sources are stored on the [http://sourceforge.net/projects/reprap/develop/ RepRap Sourceforge SVN]. If you wish to contribute a patch or bug report the RepRap project uses [http://sourceforge.net/tracker/?group_id=159590 Sourceforge's issue tracker] or you can contact [[User:AdrianBowyer|Adrian]] directly if you are interested in gaining commit access although generally the issue tracker is a much faster route to having your patch accessible.<br />
<br />
===Documentation===<br />
Lets face it, the documentation is sloppy and you've probably got some ideas on how to fix that. Go for it! This mediawiki is open to edit, if you run into troubles or aren't sure how to edit the pages you see here check out the [[RepRap help|help page]] (although that page is also a bit of a mess.. seems a bit of a cyclic problem).<br />
<br />
You can find more info on the RepRap documentation and the tasks that need be done at the [[Wiki Administration]] portal.<br />
<br />
There is also potentially some interest in doing some RepRap [[Collaborative Publications]] however it might be best to ask around on IRC or the forums to see if anyone is currently interested.<br />
<br />
In particular, many people think it would be a wonderful thing to simplify the design and document the design in enough detail that a couple of 13-year-olds could build a RepRap: [[education]].<br />
<br />
===Donations===<br />
Your financial contribution will help the RepRap development team in many ways; we always put our donations to good use. Whether it's investing in better tools, new motors, or more finely tuned extruders, we guarantee your donation directly supports our growth as an efficient community of makers. Ultimately, your monetary contribution allows us to continue our progress, making better and better printers with every dollar.<br />
* [http://sourceforge.net/donate/index.php?group_id=159590 RepRap Donation Page]<br />
* [http://www.cafepress.ca/reprap RepRap CafePress Shop] for mugs, tee shirts, mouse mats and the like<br />
<br />
<span id="Guidelines"><br />
<br />
== Blogs and Resources ==<br />
<br />
=== RepRapper Blogs ===<br />
* [http://pipes.yahoo.com/davidbuzz/reprap_aggregation_pipe Reprap Aggregation Pipe ( aka Blog of Blogs )] <- best place to find all the RepRap blog updates<br />
* [http://blog.reprap.org/ Core Team Blog ] - A official blog of the RepRap Core Team<br />
* [http://builders.reprap.org/ Builders Blog ] - A second RepRap blog for the RepRap community<br />
* [[Builders/Links_and_Blogs|Links and Blogs]] - A collection of links to different blogs and websites which deal directly with RepRap, or are of Interest to RepRappers.<br />
<br />
=== Contributors ===<br />
* While there are [[Admin]]s, we try to not put specific people onto a throne. That means: everybody doing a contribution to this wiki or this project is a contributor. You can look at their [[Special:ActiveUsers|activity]].<br />
<br />
=== Other Resources ===<br />
<br />
* [[MediaMain| Press coverage of RepRap]]<br />
* [http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=117099291054388532447.0004409098b1c5b712553 RepRap World Map]<br />
* [[RelatedSites | Related sites]]<br />
* [[Builders/Links and Blogs]]<br />
* [[DeveloperBookshelf | Developer Bookshelf]] - A set of eBooks which capture some of the early development of the project. Currently consists of collections of various blog posts from core RepRap developers.<br />
* [http://reprap.development-tracker.info RepRap Development Tracker] - An external web application which aims to be a registry of 3D printing developments across a range of websites, such as github, Thingiverse, and this wiki.<br />
* [https://www.reddit.com/r/reprap /r/RepRap] - RepRap subreddit.<br />
* [http://8ch.net/reprap/ 8ch.net/reprap/] - Related board on 8chan.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Community_portal&diff=169110Community portal2016-01-21T13:31:17Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Reverted edits by Elisen25 (talk) to last revision by Rapper2016</p>
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<div>http://reprap.org/wiki/File:1-800_903-7315_QuickBooks_Multi-User_Tech_Support_Phone_Number.txt<br />
<br />
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Intuit QuickBooks Multi-User Tech Support Phone Number / Intuit QuickBooks Multi-User Technical Support Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
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Intuit QuickBooks Multi-User Customer Support Number / Intuit QuickBooks Multi-User Customer Support Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
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Intuit QuickBooks Multi-User Helpdesk Support Number / Intuit QuickBooks Multi-User Helpdesk Support Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
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Intuit QuickBooks Self Employed Support 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
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Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Technical Support Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Tech Support Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Support Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Support Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Support Phone Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Support Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Support Phone Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Support Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Support Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Support Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Service Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Service Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Support Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Service Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Service Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Support Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Helpdesk Support Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Helpdesk Support Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Helpdesk Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Helpdesk Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Support Help Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Support Helpdesk Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support <br />
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Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Customer Care Number / Intuit QuickBooks Accounting Support Phone Number 1 800 903 7315 24*7 Support </div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clone_Wars_Netiquette/es&diff=158035Clone Wars Netiquette/es2015-12-20T10:25:59Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Añadida nota</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Clone_Wars_Netiquette}}<br />
La [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] del [[Proyecto Clone Wars]] es un medio a través del cual compartir tus experiencias, informar de eventos, preguntar tus dudas, siempre en lo relacionado con impresión 3D libre.<br />
<br />
{{Notice|'''Nota'''. Esta lista de correo no es ''el canal de soporte gratuito'' de ninguna empresa, por lo que si te has comprado una impresora y no te funciona, deberías preguntarle antes a la empresa que te la vendió.}}<br />
<br />
Por lo demás, siéntete libre de participar pero recuerda que, por la comodidad de todos, te recomendamos que sigas una serie de pautas:<br />
<br />
* '''Preséntate''': Es muy recomendable que tu primer correo a la lista sea un correo en el que te presentes, de forma que cualquiera pueda saber quien eres leyendo tu primer correo en el archivo de la lista. Hay alguna información que es interesante que ese correo contenga:<br />
** Tu nombre; o si lo prefieres, tu apodo.<br />
** Es recomendable que digas de que zona eres, para que si hay algún grupo cercano te pueda informar.<br />
** Si tienes intención de ponerte a construir una impresora RepRap, dí que modelo vas a construir y, si ya has decidido que nombre ponerle, también puedes decirlo.<br />
** No hace falta que preguntes por donde empezar, la información que necesitas está en el [[Proyecto Clone Wars]], así que primero lee y luego pregunta.<br />
** '''El asunto del correo''': Debe ser conciso, trata de evitar asuntos como «tengo una duda» o «quien puede ayudarme». Evita escribir correos que contengan el mensaje en el asunto, el asunto debe ser breve.<br />
** '''SE DEBEN UTILIZAR ETIQUETAS''' al inicio del asunto del correo para facilitar el filtrado por temas. Deben ir escritas entre corchetes e indicar la categoría del mensaje (duda, evento, donación, etc.). Se pueden poner varias etiquetas seguidas: [ETIQUETA1][ETIQUETA2]. Algunas etiquetas que puedes utilizar:<br />
*** [PRESENTACION]: Para darse a conocer los nuevos participantes en la lista.<br />
*** [ELECTRONICA]: En el caso de que abras un hilo en el que se hablará de un tema relacionado con RAMPS, arduino, pololus, cableado, calentadores...<br />
*** [SOFTWARE]: En el caso de que vayas a hablar sobre aplicaciones de impresión, laminado o firmware.<br />
*** [PROBLEMA]: Para describir un problema concreto, que te trae de cabeza y para el que no has encontrado solución en el [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Clone_Wars_FAQ/es FAQ], ni en otros hilos en la lista.<br />
*** [DUDA]: En el caso de que tengas una duda que no puedas clasificar en otra categoría, utiliza esta etiqueta.<br />
*** [DESARROLLO]: Si vas a hablar sobre una mejora para las impresoras, puedes utilizar esta etiqueta.<br />
*** [EVENTO]: En el caso de que estés convocando o anunciando una quedada, charlas...<br />
*** [DONACION], [TRUEQUE] o [VENTA]: En el caso de que estés anunciando una donación, trueque o venta de piezas impresas o vitaminas para algún modelo de impresora.<br />
*** [WIKI]: En el caso de que se vaya a tratar un asunto relacionado con la documentación de la wiki.<br />
*** [OFFTOPIC]: En el caso de que tu correo no esté estrechamente relacionado con el tema de la impresión 3D, o sea un correo lúdico.<br />
*** [HOJA DE RUTA]: En el caso que estés construyendo una impresora y quieras mostrar su evolución.<br />
*** ... (esta lista no está ni mucho menos completa, siéntete libre de editarla)<br />
*** ... Donde dice ''«Es bueno que utilices etiquetas»'' léase ''«No es que sea obligatorio..., pero '''HAY que usar etiquetas'''»''<br />
*** ... Y no pasa nada si se te olvida ponerla, pero el primer mensaje que obtendrás entonces como respuesta será de nuestro querido ''«Prusador del Frac»'' que amablemente te recordará que '''HAY que usar etiquetas''' para la próxima vez.<br />
* '''Se cortés, escribe bien''': Saludar y despedirte en los correos puede ser conveniente al comenzar y dar por finalizada una conversación o hilo, entre medio quizá sea innecesario. Escribe en minúsculas y trata de evitar faltas de ortografía o escribir con demasiadas abreviaturas.<br />
* '''No cambies de tema''': Cuando se comienza a hablar de un tema, si a lo largo del hilo por algún motivo se comienza a hablar de otra cosa, cambia el asunto del mensaje. Si los temas de conversación se entremezclan la lista resulta muy difícil de leer.<br />
* '''Lee primero, pregunta después''': Existe bastante documentación en castellano, y muchísima en inglés. Infórmate bien antes de preguntar y, en caso de que en castellano no encuentres la información que necesitas y tengas problemas con el inglés, existe una gran comunidad dispuesta a ayudarte. Si tu duda queda resuelta y no estaba bien documentada la solución, documéntala.<br />
* '''Redacta con cuidado''': Piensa bien lo que quieres decir, redacta con tranquilidad y de forma estructurada. Una duda mal planteada puede quedar sin resolver.<br />
* '''Evita adjuntar ficheros''': El correo que vas a enviar llegará a muchas personas, y por cada una, una copia de los ficheros que has adjuntado. Piensa en primer lugar si lo que vas a adjuntar aporta algo y, si es así, súbelo a algún servicio de intercambio de ficheros (genérico, como [http://dropbox.com/ Dropbox], o especializado, como [http://imageshack.us/ ImageShack] o [http://thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse]), y enlázalo desde tu correo.<br />
* '''Protege tu privacidad''': Los correos que envías son públicos y permanentes. No podrás «deshacer», así que piensate dos veces lo que envías. Sobra decir que no reveles contraseñas, números de tarjeta, y cualquier otro dato que consideres sensible o personal. Si vas a contestar en privado a uno de los participantes en la lista, asegúrate de que el destinatario del correo es él y no la lista.<br />
* '''Envía correos relevantes''': Si tu correo no lo es, puedes utilizar la etiqueta [OFFTOPIC]. Trata de evitar respuestas que no aporten nada a hilos, como «jaja» u «ok».<br />
* '''No envíes mensajes duplicados''': La lista y el «foro» son lo mismo, todo nos llega a todos, asegúrate de que efectivamente tu mensaje no ha llegado a buen puerto antes de enviarlo de nuevo.<br />
* '''Invita a los usuarios a seguir la netiquette''', enlazándoles a esta página o recordándoles las buenas formas que no ponen en práctica.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clone_Wars_Netiquette/es&diff=158034Clone Wars Netiquette/es2015-12-20T10:16:23Z<p>XoanSampaiño: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Clone_Wars_Netiquette}}<br />
La [http://groups.google.com/group/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d lista de correo] del [[Proyecto Clone Wars]] es un medio a través del cual compartir tus experiencias, informar de eventos, preguntar tus dudas, siempre en lo relacionado con impresión 3D libre.<br />
<br />
'''Nota'''. Esta lista de correo no es ''el canal de soporte gratuito'' de ninguna empresa, por lo que si te has comprado una impresora y no te funciona, deberías preguntarle antes a la empresa que te la vendió.<br />
<br />
Por lo demás, siéntete libre de participar pero recuerda que, por la comodidad de todos, te recomendamos que sigas una serie de pautas:<br />
<br />
* '''Preséntate''': Es muy recomendable que tu primer correo a la lista sea un correo en el que te presentes, de forma que cualquiera pueda saber quien eres leyendo tu primer correo en el archivo de la lista. Hay alguna información que es interesante que ese correo contenga:<br />
** Tu nombre; o si lo prefieres, tu apodo.<br />
** Es recomendable que digas de que zona eres, para que si hay algún grupo cercano te pueda informar.<br />
** Si tienes intención de ponerte a construir una impresora RepRap, dí que modelo vas a construir y, si ya has decidido que nombre ponerle, también puedes decirlo.<br />
** No hace falta que preguntes por donde empezar, la información que necesitas está en el [[Proyecto Clone Wars]], así que primero lee y luego pregunta.<br />
** '''El asunto del correo''': Debe ser conciso, trata de evitar asuntos como «tengo una duda» o «quien puede ayudarme». Evita escribir correos que contengan el mensaje en el asunto, el asunto debe ser breve.<br />
** '''SE DEBEN UTILIZAR ETIQUETAS''' al inicio del asunto del correo para facilitar el filtrado por temas. Deben ir escritas entre corchetes e indicar la categoría del mensaje (duda, evento, donación, etc.). Se pueden poner varias etiquetas seguidas: [ETIQUETA1][ETIQUETA2]. Algunas etiquetas que puedes utilizar:<br />
*** [PRESENTACION]: Para darse a conocer los nuevos participantes en la lista.<br />
*** [ELECTRONICA]: En el caso de que abras un hilo en el que se hablará de un tema relacionado con RAMPS, arduino, pololus, cableado, calentadores...<br />
*** [SOFTWARE]: En el caso de que vayas a hablar sobre aplicaciones de impresión, laminado o firmware.<br />
*** [PROBLEMA]: Para describir un problema concreto, que te trae de cabeza y para el que no has encontrado solución en el [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Clone_Wars_FAQ/es FAQ], ni en otros hilos en la lista.<br />
*** [DUDA]: En el caso de que tengas una duda que no puedas clasificar en otra categoría, utiliza esta etiqueta.<br />
*** [DESARROLLO]: Si vas a hablar sobre una mejora para las impresoras, puedes utilizar esta etiqueta.<br />
*** [EVENTO]: En el caso de que estés convocando o anunciando una quedada, charlas...<br />
*** [DONACION], [TRUEQUE] o [VENTA]: En el caso de que estés anunciando una donación, trueque o venta de piezas impresas o vitaminas para algún modelo de impresora.<br />
*** [WIKI]: En el caso de que se vaya a tratar un asunto relacionado con la documentación de la wiki.<br />
*** [OFFTOPIC]: En el caso de que tu correo no esté estrechamente relacionado con el tema de la impresión 3D, o sea un correo lúdico.<br />
*** [HOJA DE RUTA]: En el caso que estés construyendo una impresora y quieras mostrar su evolución.<br />
*** ... (esta lista no está ni mucho menos completa, siéntete libre de editarla)<br />
*** ... Donde dice ''«Es bueno que utilices etiquetas»'' léase ''«No es que sea obligatorio..., pero '''HAY que usar etiquetas'''»''<br />
*** ... Y no pasa nada si se te olvida ponerla, pero el primer mensaje que obtendrás entonces como respuesta será de nuestro querido ''«Prusador del Frac»'' que amablemente te recordará que '''HAY que usar etiquetas''' para la próxima vez.<br />
* '''Se cortés, escribe bien''': Saludar y despedirte en los correos puede ser conveniente al comenzar y dar por finalizada una conversación o hilo, entre medio quizá sea innecesario. Escribe en minúsculas y trata de evitar faltas de ortografía o escribir con demasiadas abreviaturas.<br />
* '''No cambies de tema''': Cuando se comienza a hablar de un tema, si a lo largo del hilo por algún motivo se comienza a hablar de otra cosa, cambia el asunto del mensaje. Si los temas de conversación se entremezclan la lista resulta muy difícil de leer.<br />
* '''Lee primero, pregunta después''': Existe bastante documentación en castellano, y muchísima en inglés. Infórmate bien antes de preguntar y, en caso de que en castellano no encuentres la información que necesitas y tengas problemas con el inglés, existe una gran comunidad dispuesta a ayudarte. Si tu duda queda resuelta y no estaba bien documentada la solución, documéntala.<br />
* '''Redacta con cuidado''': Piensa bien lo que quieres decir, redacta con tranquilidad y de forma estructurada. Una duda mal planteada puede quedar sin resolver.<br />
* '''Evita adjuntar ficheros''': El correo que vas a enviar llegará a muchas personas, y por cada una, una copia de los ficheros que has adjuntado. Piensa en primer lugar si lo que vas a adjuntar aporta algo y, si es así, súbelo a algún servicio de intercambio de ficheros (genérico, como [http://dropbox.com/ Dropbox], o especializado, como [http://imageshack.us/ ImageShack] o [http://thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse]), y enlázalo desde tu correo.<br />
* '''Protege tu privacidad''': Los correos que envías son públicos y permanentes. No podrás «deshacer», así que piensate dos veces lo que envías. Sobra decir que no reveles contraseñas, números de tarjeta, y cualquier otro dato que consideres sensible o personal. Si vas a contestar en privado a uno de los participantes en la lista, asegúrate de que el destinatario del correo es él y no la lista.<br />
* '''Envía correos relevantes''': Si tu correo no lo es, puedes utilizar la etiqueta [OFFTOPIC]. Trata de evitar respuestas que no aporten nada a hilos, como «jaja» u «ok».<br />
* '''No envíes mensajes duplicados''': La lista y el «foro» son lo mismo, todo nos llega a todos, asegúrate de que efectivamente tu mensaje no ha llegado a buen puerto antes de enviarlo de nuevo.<br />
* '''Invita a los usuarios a seguir la netiquette''', enlazándoles a esta página o recordándoles las buenas formas que no ponen en práctica.<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es| ]]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Meikian_Live&diff=157655Meikian Live2015-12-02T02:57:46Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Gallery */ Changed gallery width</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Meikian Live}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Meikian Live<br />
|version = 1.1<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Meikian Live - Logo.png<br />
|description = Debian for makers<br />
|license = [[GPL]] (see [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/develop/licenses.html licenses])<br />
|author = CtemesCW<br />
|reprap = Proyecto Clone Wars<br />
|categories = {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}<br />
|url = [http://meikian.eu/ Meikian Live]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Meikian Live''' (formely named ''CWLive'') is a GNU/Linux live distribution initially focused on [[Proyecto Clone Wars|Clone Wars]] community, but intended to all the [[RepRap]] users and developers. Based on [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], it includes most of the {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}, useful links and other related stuff you can use on a day to day as a [[About#Glossary|reprapper]].<br />
<br />
== Applications ==<br />
<br />
* 3D Printing <br />
** [[Cura]]<br />
** [[OctoPrint]]<br />
** [[Pronterface]]<br />
** [[RepSnapper]]<br />
** [[Skeinforge]]<br />
** [[Slic3r]]<br />
* 3D Scanning<br />
** [[Horus]]<br />
* CNC<br />
** [[CNCGcodeController|CNC Gcode Controller]]<br />
** [[PCB_Milling#FlatCAM|FlatCAM]]<br />
** [https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender Universal G-Code Sender]<br />
* Development<br />
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]<br />
** [https://wiki.gnome.org/Apps/Gitg/ gitg]<br />
** [https://processing.org/ Processing]<br />
* Education<br />
** [http://s4a.cat/ S4A]<br />
** [http://scratch.mit.edu/ Scratch]<br />
** [http://www.visualino.net/ Visualino]<br />
* Electronics<br />
** [http://fritzing.org/ Fritzing]<br />
** [http://geda-project.org/ gEDA]<br />
** [[KiCad]]<br />
* Graphics 2D<br />
** [http://gimp.org/ GIMP]<br />
** [http://inkscape.org/ Inskcape]<br />
** [http://librecad.org/ LibreCAD]<br />
* Graphics 3D<br />
** [http://blender.org/ Blender]<br />
** [[FreeCAD]]<br />
** [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab]<br />
** [[OpenSCAD]]<br />
** [http://dkobozev.github.io/tatlin/ Tatlin]<br />
** [http://wings3d.com/ Wings3D]<br />
<br />
== Gallery ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=225px perrow=3><br />
File:Meikian Live - Applications.png|Applications<br />
File:Meikian Live - Desktop.png|Desktop<br />
File:Meikian Live - Boot Menu.png|Boot Menu<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
<br />
* [http://meikian.eu/ Home]<br />
* [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/latest/ Documentation]<br />
* [https://github.com/ctemescw/meikian-dev Development]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Meikian_Live/es&diff=157654Meikian Live/es2015-12-02T02:57:19Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Galería */ Añadida captura de pantalla con aplicaciones</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Meikian Live}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Meikian Live<br />
|version = 1.1<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Meikian Live - Logo.png<br />
|description = Debian para makers<br />
|license = [[GPL]] (véase [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/develop/licenses.html licencias])<br />
|author = CtemesCW<br />
|reprap = Proyecto Clone Wars<br />
|categories = {{tag|Software/es}}<br />
|url = [http://meikian.eu/ Meikian Live]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Meikian Live''' (antes llamada ''CWLive'') es una distribución ''«live»'' de GNU/Linux centrada inicialmente en la comunidad del [[Proyecto Clone Wars]], pero dirigida a todos los usuarios y desarrolladores [[RepRap]]. Basada en [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], incluye la mayoría de {{tag|software/es}}, {{tag|firmware/es}}, enlaces útiles y demás material relacionado que se suele emplear en el día a día como ''«maker»''.<br />
<br />
== Aplicaciones ==<br />
<br />
* Impresión 3D <br />
** [[Cura]]<br />
** [[OctoPrint]]<br />
** [[Pronterface]]<br />
** [[RepSnapper]]<br />
** [[Skeinforge]]<br />
** [[Slic3r]]<br />
* Escaneado 3D<br />
** [[Horus]]<br />
* CNC<br />
** [[CNCGcodeController|CNC Gcode Controller]]<br />
** [[PCB_Milling#FlatCAM|FlatCAM]]<br />
** [https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender Universal G-Code Sender]<br />
* Desarrollo<br />
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]<br />
** [https://wiki.gnome.org/Apps/Gitg/ gitg]<br />
** [https://processing.org/ Processing]<br />
* Educación<br />
** [http://s4a.cat/ S4A]<br />
** [http://scratch.mit.edu/ Scratch]<br />
** [http://www.visualino.net/ Visualino]<br />
* Electrónica<br />
** [http://fritzing.org/ Fritzing]<br />
** [http://geda-project.org/ gEDA]<br />
** [[KiCad]]<br />
* Gráficos 2D<br />
** [http://gimp.org/ GIMP]<br />
** [http://inkscape.org/ Inskcape]<br />
** [http://librecad.org/ LibreCAD]<br />
* Gráficos 3D<br />
** [http://blender.org/ Blender]<br />
** [[FreeCAD]]<br />
** [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab]<br />
** [[OpenSCAD]]<br />
** [http://dkobozev.github.io/tatlin/ Tatlin]<br />
** [http://wings3d.com/ Wings3D]<br />
<br />
== Galería ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=300px heights=225px perrow=3><br />
File:Meikian Live - Applications.png|Aplicaciones<br />
File:Meikian Live - Desktop.png|Escritorio<br />
File:Meikian Live - Boot Menu.png|Menú de arranque<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Enlaces externos ==<br />
<br />
* [http://meikian.eu/index-es.html Sitio web]<br />
* [http://docs.meikian.eu/es/latest/ Documentación]<br />
* [https://github.com/ctemescw/meikian-dev Desarrollo]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=File:Meikian_Live_-_Applications.png&diff=157653File:Meikian Live - Applications.png2015-12-02T02:54:21Z<p>XoanSampaiño: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Meikian_Live&diff=157652Meikian Live2015-12-02T02:53:39Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Gallery */ Added applications screenshot</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Meikian Live}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Meikian Live<br />
|version = 1.1<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Meikian Live - Logo.png<br />
|description = Debian for makers<br />
|license = [[GPL]] (see [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/develop/licenses.html licenses])<br />
|author = CtemesCW<br />
|reprap = Proyecto Clone Wars<br />
|categories = {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}<br />
|url = [http://meikian.eu/ Meikian Live]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Meikian Live''' (formely named ''CWLive'') is a GNU/Linux live distribution initially focused on [[Proyecto Clone Wars|Clone Wars]] community, but intended to all the [[RepRap]] users and developers. Based on [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], it includes most of the {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}, useful links and other related stuff you can use on a day to day as a [[About#Glossary|reprapper]].<br />
<br />
== Applications ==<br />
<br />
* 3D Printing <br />
** [[Cura]]<br />
** [[OctoPrint]]<br />
** [[Pronterface]]<br />
** [[RepSnapper]]<br />
** [[Skeinforge]]<br />
** [[Slic3r]]<br />
* 3D Scanning<br />
** [[Horus]]<br />
* CNC<br />
** [[CNCGcodeController|CNC Gcode Controller]]<br />
** [[PCB_Milling#FlatCAM|FlatCAM]]<br />
** [https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender Universal G-Code Sender]<br />
* Development<br />
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]<br />
** [https://wiki.gnome.org/Apps/Gitg/ gitg]<br />
** [https://processing.org/ Processing]<br />
* Education<br />
** [http://s4a.cat/ S4A]<br />
** [http://scratch.mit.edu/ Scratch]<br />
** [http://www.visualino.net/ Visualino]<br />
* Electronics<br />
** [http://fritzing.org/ Fritzing]<br />
** [http://geda-project.org/ gEDA]<br />
** [[KiCad]]<br />
* Graphics 2D<br />
** [http://gimp.org/ GIMP]<br />
** [http://inkscape.org/ Inskcape]<br />
** [http://librecad.org/ LibreCAD]<br />
* Graphics 3D<br />
** [http://blender.org/ Blender]<br />
** [[FreeCAD]]<br />
** [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab]<br />
** [[OpenSCAD]]<br />
** [http://dkobozev.github.io/tatlin/ Tatlin]<br />
** [http://wings3d.com/ Wings3D]<br />
<br />
== Gallery ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=320px heights=240px perrow=3><br />
File:Meikian Live - Applications.png|Applications<br />
File:Meikian Live - Desktop.png|Desktop<br />
File:Meikian Live - Boot Menu.png|Boot Menu<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
<br />
* [http://meikian.eu/ Home]<br />
* [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/latest/ Documentation]<br />
* [https://github.com/ctemescw/meikian-dev Development]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Meikian_Live/es&diff=157651Meikian Live/es2015-12-02T02:32:27Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Aplicaciones */ Añadidas aplicaciones incluidas en la versión 8.0</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Meikian Live}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Meikian Live<br />
|version = 1.1<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Meikian Live - Logo.png<br />
|description = Debian para makers<br />
|license = [[GPL]] (véase [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/develop/licenses.html licencias])<br />
|author = CtemesCW<br />
|reprap = Proyecto Clone Wars<br />
|categories = {{tag|Software/es}}<br />
|url = [http://meikian.eu/ Meikian Live]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Meikian Live''' (antes llamada ''CWLive'') es una distribución ''«live»'' de GNU/Linux centrada inicialmente en la comunidad del [[Proyecto Clone Wars]], pero dirigida a todos los usuarios y desarrolladores [[RepRap]]. Basada en [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], incluye la mayoría de {{tag|software/es}}, {{tag|firmware/es}}, enlaces útiles y demás material relacionado que se suele emplear en el día a día como ''«maker»''.<br />
<br />
== Aplicaciones ==<br />
<br />
* Impresión 3D <br />
** [[Cura]]<br />
** [[OctoPrint]]<br />
** [[Pronterface]]<br />
** [[RepSnapper]]<br />
** [[Skeinforge]]<br />
** [[Slic3r]]<br />
* Escaneado 3D<br />
** [[Horus]]<br />
* CNC<br />
** [[CNCGcodeController|CNC Gcode Controller]]<br />
** [[PCB_Milling#FlatCAM|FlatCAM]]<br />
** [https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender Universal G-Code Sender]<br />
* Desarrollo<br />
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]<br />
** [https://wiki.gnome.org/Apps/Gitg/ gitg]<br />
** [https://processing.org/ Processing]<br />
* Educación<br />
** [http://s4a.cat/ S4A]<br />
** [http://scratch.mit.edu/ Scratch]<br />
** [http://www.visualino.net/ Visualino]<br />
* Electrónica<br />
** [http://fritzing.org/ Fritzing]<br />
** [http://geda-project.org/ gEDA]<br />
** [[KiCad]]<br />
* Gráficos 2D<br />
** [http://gimp.org/ GIMP]<br />
** [http://inkscape.org/ Inskcape]<br />
** [http://librecad.org/ LibreCAD]<br />
* Gráficos 3D<br />
** [http://blender.org/ Blender]<br />
** [[FreeCAD]]<br />
** [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab]<br />
** [[OpenSCAD]]<br />
** [http://dkobozev.github.io/tatlin/ Tatlin]<br />
** [http://wings3d.com/ Wings3D]<br />
<br />
== Galería ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=320px heights=240px perrow=3><br />
File:Meikian Live - Desktop.png|Escritorio<br />
File:Meikian Live - Boot Menu.png|Menú de arranque<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Enlaces externos ==<br />
<br />
* [http://meikian.eu/index-es.html Sitio web]<br />
* [http://docs.meikian.eu/es/latest/ Documentación]<br />
* [https://github.com/ctemescw/meikian-dev Desarrollo]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Meikian_Live&diff=157650Meikian Live2015-12-02T02:29:14Z<p>XoanSampaiño: /* Applications */ Added applications included in v8.0</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Meikian Live}}<br />
{{Development<br />
|name = Meikian Live<br />
|version = 1.1<br />
|status = working<br />
|image = Meikian Live - Logo.png<br />
|description = Debian for makers<br />
|license = [[GPL]] (see [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/develop/licenses.html licenses])<br />
|author = CtemesCW<br />
|reprap = Proyecto Clone Wars<br />
|categories = {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}<br />
|url = [http://meikian.eu/ Meikian Live]<br />
}}<br />
<br />
'''Meikian Live''' (formely named ''CWLive'') is a GNU/Linux live distribution initially focused on [[Proyecto Clone Wars|Clone Wars]] community, but intended to all the [[RepRap]] users and developers. Based on [http://debian.org/ Debian GNU/Linux], it includes most of the {{tag|Software}}, {{tag|Firmware}}, useful links and other related stuff you can use on a day to day as a [[About#Glossary|reprapper]].<br />
<br />
== Applications ==<br />
<br />
* 3D Printing <br />
** [[Cura]]<br />
** [[OctoPrint]]<br />
** [[Pronterface]]<br />
** [[RepSnapper]]<br />
** [[Skeinforge]]<br />
** [[Slic3r]]<br />
* 3D Scanning<br />
** [[Horus]]<br />
* CNC<br />
** [[CNCGcodeController|CNC Gcode Controller]]<br />
** [[PCB_Milling#FlatCAM|FlatCAM]]<br />
** [https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender Universal G-Code Sender]<br />
* Development<br />
** [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Arduino IDE]<br />
** [https://wiki.gnome.org/Apps/Gitg/ gitg]<br />
** [https://processing.org/ Processing]<br />
* Education<br />
** [http://s4a.cat/ S4A]<br />
** [http://scratch.mit.edu/ Scratch]<br />
** [http://www.visualino.net/ Visualino]<br />
* Electronics<br />
** [http://fritzing.org/ Fritzing]<br />
** [http://geda-project.org/ gEDA]<br />
** [[KiCad]]<br />
* Graphics 2D<br />
** [http://gimp.org/ GIMP]<br />
** [http://inkscape.org/ Inskcape]<br />
** [http://librecad.org/ LibreCAD]<br />
* Graphics 3D<br />
** [http://blender.org/ Blender]<br />
** [[FreeCAD]]<br />
** [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ Meshlab]<br />
** [[OpenSCAD]]<br />
** [http://dkobozev.github.io/tatlin/ Tatlin]<br />
** [http://wings3d.com/ Wings3D]<br />
<br />
== Gallery ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=320px heights=240px perrow=3><br />
File:Meikian Live - Desktop.png|Desktop<br />
File:Meikian Live - Boot Menu.png|Boot Menu<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
<br />
* [http://meikian.eu/ Home]<br />
* [http://docs.meikian.eu/en/latest/ Documentation]<br />
* [https://github.com/ctemescw/meikian-dev Development]</div>XoanSampaiñohttps://reprap.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Clone_Wars:_El_imperio_de_los_clones/es&diff=150476Clone Wars: El imperio de los clones/es2015-07-01T13:18:49Z<p>XoanSampaiño: Clon #187: Super 8 (R.I.P)</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Languages|Clone_Wars:_El_imperio_de_los_clones}}<br />
== El Imperio Clone wars ==<br />
<br />
=== Árbol genealógico ===<br />
Todo clon tiene un origen...<br />
<p id="mainPage.title" style="background:#eeeeee; color:#cf7606; padding: 0.4em; font-weight: bold; font-size: 120%;">Cantidad de Repstraps hasta el momento: 19 </p><br />
<p id="mainPage.title" style="background:#eeeeee; color:#cf7606; padding: 0.4em; font-weight: bold; font-size: 120%;">Cantidad de clones producidos hasta el momento: 366 </p><br />
<p id="mainPage.title" style="background:#eeeeee; color:#cf3606; padding: 0.4em; font-weight: bold; font-size: 120%;">Cantidad total de Impresoras 3D: 416 </p><br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|- <br />
| <center>[[File:2012-12-20-clone-wars-genealogy-100-clones.png|250px|Todo clon tiene un origen... (click para agrandar)]]</center><br />
| <center>[[File:cw_tree_2.png|250px]]</center><br />
|-----<br />
|<br />
* El fichero vectorial (SVG) está en [https://github.com/Obijuan/Clone-wars/tree/master/genealogy el repositorio] <br />
* [https://raw.github.com/Obijuan/Clone-wars/master/genealogy/png/2012-12-20-clone-wars-genealogy-100-clones.png PNG en alta resolución]<br />
| <center>Puedes agregar tu clon y ver los que están ya agregados en<br><br />
[http://maytheclonebewithyou.com/ May The Clone Be With You]</center><br />
|}<br />
Si hubiera algún problema con la pagina del "Arbol de los Clones" contactar con Javier en este email: info at maytheclonebewithyou dot com<br />
<br />
=== Cronología ===<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|- <br />
| [[File:clonwars_timeline.png|200px|Acceso a la cronología|link=http://www.b-o-t.cc]]<br />
|<br />
* El proyecto CloneWars tiene ya un tamaño importante. Hemos creado [http://www.b-o-t.cc esta cronología] para mostrar de otra forma todos los acontecimientos que han ido recogiéndose y que sin duda se producirán en adelante.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Mapa del Imperio de los Clones ==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|- <br />
| [[File:Clon-wars-map.png|200px|Acceso directo al mapa|link=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=212249552587451398586.0004b8d56644866cdfb9c&msa=0&ll=40.413496,-3.713379&spn=13.022942,28.520508]]<br />
|<br />
* ¿Quieres conocer '''cuántos clones hay cerca de donde vives''' o ver '''la extensión del imperio de clones'''? Consulta el [[Mapa Imperio Clones| mapa del Imperio de los Clones]].<br />
* ¿Quieres que todos sepan '''dónde se encuentra el clon que has construido o que estás construyendo'''? En el [[Mapa Imperio Clones| mapa del Imperio de los Clones]] puedes añadir la localización y estado de tu clon.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Generación 0: Las impresoras progenitoras ==<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:R1-50.jpg|'''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Makerbot_Cupcake:_R1 R1]''' (R.I.P.) ([http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Juan_Gonzalez:Main Juan ''«Obijuan»'' González Gómez] y [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Andr%C3%A9s_Prieto-Moreno Andrés Prieto Moreno]. Madrid, 19 de mayo de 2009)<br />
<br />
File:Clon0-CADesigns.png|'''CADesigns''' (Carlos Monreal. Zaragoza, marzo de 2011)<br />
<br />
File:Cupcake-madalena.jpg|'''Madalena''' ([http://canarnova.blogspot.com/ Canarnova]. Tenerife, 12 de marzo de 2011)<br />
<br />
File:Madre-gen0-r1.jpg|'''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Impresora_3D:MADRE MADRE]''' (Asociación de Robótica, UC3M. Madrid, 16 de mayo de 2011)<br />
<br />
File:PADRE-1.jpg|'''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Impresora_3D:PADRE PADRE]''' (a.k.a UC3-PO) (Departamento de Ingeniería de Sistemas y Automática, UC3M. Madrid, 8 de octubre de 2011)<br />
<br />
File:Robcib-maker.jpg|'''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=MakerBot_Thing-o-Matic:_Robcib-Maker UPM-MAKER]''' ([http://www.robcib.etsii.upm.es/ RobCib Grupo de Robótica y Cibernética], UPM. Madrid, noviembre de 2011)<br />
<br />
File:DeutecnoMAKER-1.jpg|'''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=MakerBot_Thing-o-Matic:_Deutecno-Maker Deutecno-maker]''' ([http://www.deutecno.com/index2.html Deutecno, S.L]. Ávila, 15 de diciembre de 2011)<br />
<br />
File:Clon0-Demiurgo-6489.jpg|'''[[Impresora Progenitora: Demiurgo|Demiurgo]]''' (Jon Goitia. Madrid, 15 de enero de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon GLaDOS.jpg|'''[[Clone wars:Impresora GLaDOS|GLaDOS]]''' (Miguel Ángel Herranz. Madrid, 2 de febrero de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:MAF1.jpeg|'''[[MakerGear Mosaic 1: MAF-1|MAF-1]]''' ([http://madebyfrutos.es/ Miguel Angel de Frutos]. Madrid y «El Bierzo», 22 de abril 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon0-Plumabot-M.jpg|'''Plumabot-M''' (IES Juan de la Cierva. Madrid, 4 de junio 2012)<br />
<br />
File:IMG_0472.jpg|'''3DGDAF''' ([http://www.uc3m.es/portal/page/portal/grupos_investigacion/grupo_displays_aplicaciones_fotonicas Grupo de Displays y Aplicaciones Fotónica], UC3M. Madrid, 26 de junio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon0-HORI.png|'''[[HORI]]''' ([http://www-bsac.eecs.berkeley.edu/~mccoy/ Chris D. McCoy] . Madrid, 10 de julio 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon0-UltiCo.jpg|'''UltiCO''' (Ivan Blasco. Carrasquedo (Burgos), 15 de julio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone0-pris.jpg|'''Pris''' (Jose Hevia. Madrid, 20 de julio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone0-Xan.jpg|'''Xan''' (Alejandro Martín. Cancún (México), 23 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon0-Plumabot-Gr.jpg|'''Plumabot-Gr''' (IES Virgen de las Nieves. Granada, 28 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon0-Micro tr.png|'''Micro''' ( [http://carlosgs.es/ Carlos García Saura]. Madrid, 23 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon 0 Magic carpet.jpg|'''Magic Carpet''' (Antonio Campos. Orio (Guipúzcoa), 30 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Art_e_Facto.jpg|'''Art-e-Facto''' (Miguel Herranz. Vallecas (Madrid), 19 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:mAka.jpg|'''[https://sites.google.com/site/cosasdeluiso/maka mAka]''' (''sacamantecas''. Zaragoza, 18 de diciembre de 2013)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
== Los Clones ==<br />
<br />
=== Máster de la orden Jedi ===<br />
<br />
Clones que hayan parido '''tres o más clones''' totalmente operativos ''(Jedi)''.<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:Prusa-r2d2-clon.jpg|'''Clon #1: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel:_R2D2 R2D2]''' ''(R.I.P.)'', descendiente de '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title&#61;Makerbot_Cupcake:_R1 R1]''' ([http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title&#61;Juan_Gonzalez:Main Juan ''«Obijuan»'' González Gómez] y [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title&#61;Andr%C3%A9s_Prieto-Moreno Andrés Prieto Moreno]. Madrid, 24 de diciembre de 2011)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-Deathstar 2012-01-07 1-r2.jpg|'''Clon #2: [[Clone_wars:Impresora Death Star|Death Star]]''', descendiente de '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Impresora_3D:MADRE MADRE]''' (Fernando Salceda Álvarez. Madrid, 6 de enero de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:2012-02-07-paclemaker.jpg|'''Clon #7: [[Clone wars:Impresora PacleMAKER|PacleMAKER]]''', descendiente de '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=MakerBot_Thing-o-Matic:_Robcib-Maker UPM-MAKER]''' (Pablo Clemente. Madrid, 7 de febrero de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:J52-r1.jpg|'''Clon #9: [http://www.mbrobotics.es/Wiki/index.php?title=JOHNNY5 Johnny 5]''' ([http://www.mbrobotics.es/MbRobotics/Main.html Miguel Angel ''«MABLACK»'' Berna Alberola]. Alicante, 25 de febrero de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Jedi manuela.jpg|'''Clon #10: [[Clone wars:Impresora Manuela|Manuela]]''' (Jose Luis ''«Macnetic»'' del Olmo. Valladolid, 02 de marzo de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:R3-1.jpg|'''Clon #13: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Iteraci%C3%B3n_2:_R3 R3]''', descendiente del clon '''#1: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel:_R2D2 R2D2]''' ''(R.I.P.)'' ([http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title&#61;Juan_Gonzalez:Main Juan ''«Obijuan»'' González Gómez]. Madrid, 1 de abril de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Potato-r1.png|'''Clon #16: [[Clone wars: Impresora Potato|Potato]]''' ([https://plus.google.com/108347194424547002289/about Santiago López]. Madrid, 15 de abril de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-17-uterus.jpg|'''Clon #17: [[Clone wars: Impresora Uterus|Úterus]]''', descendiente del clon '''#1: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel:_R2D2 R2D2]''' ''(R.I.P.)'' (Juan Manuel ''«Coleóptero»'' Amuedo González. Madrid, 05 de mayo de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-26-Rewok.png|'''Clon #26: [[Clone wars: Impresora Rewok|Rewok]]''', descendiente de [[MakerGear Mosaic 1: MAF-1|MAF-1]] (Carlos ''«Iceflow»'' Currás. Ourense, 13 de junio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-23-The Clone UA Jedi.jpg|'''Clon #23: [[Clone_wars:_The_Clone_UA/es|The Clon UA]]''', descendiente del clon '''#2: [[Clone wars:Impresora Death Star|Deathstar]]''' (Diego Viejo. Alicante, 23 de mayo de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-29-Gandalf-the-transparent.png|'''Clon #29: [[Clone_wars:_Impresora_Gandalf_the_transparent|Gandalf the transparent]]''', descendiente de '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title&#61;Impresora_3D:MADRE MADRE]''' y '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title&#61;Impresora_3D:PADRE PADRE]''' ([http://iearobotics.com/alberto/doku.php Alberto Valero], UC3M. Madrid, 20 de junio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-30-xwing.jpg|'''Clon #30: [[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''', descendiente del clon '''#1: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel:_R2D2 R2D2]''' ''(R.I.P.)'' ([http://blog.reclone3d.com Exergy123]. Málaga, 26 de junio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-32-guaifi.jpg|'''Clon #32: [http://fidelfraga.eu/content/impresora-3d Guaifi]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Ociorum|Ociroum/Bricolabs]]''' (Fidel ''«Guaifi»'' Fraga Fernández. A Coruña, 10 de junio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-39-Daneel 3-law jedi.png|'''Clon #39: [[Clone wars:Impresora Daneel 3-law|Daneel 3-law]]''', descendiente del clon '''#10: [[Clone wars:Impresora Manuela|Manuela]]''' (Alejandro Suárez y Javier Briz. Zaragoza, 11 de agosto de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-41-Geek-X-truder.jpg|'''Clon #41: [[Clone_wars:Impresora Geek-X-truder|Geek-X-truder]]''', descendiente del clon '''#17: [[Clone wars:_Impresora_Uterus|Uterus]]''' (Pablo Murillo. Zaragoza, 26 de agosto de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-46-3D-Prisa.jpg|'''Clon #46: [[Clone wars: Impresora 3D-Prisa|3D Prisa]]''', descendiente de '''Plumabot-M''' (Fernando Remiro, IES Juan de la Cierva. Madrid, 6 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-53-Michaelmas.jpg|'''Clon #53: [[Clone wars:Impresora Michaelmas|Michaelmas]]''', descendiente del clon '''#10: [[Clone wars:Impresora Manuela|Manuela]]''' (Juan Luis ''«Macnetic»'' del Olmo. Valladolid, 05 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-55-Y-Wing.jpg|'''Clon #55: Y-Wing''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''' ([http://blog.reclone3d.com Exergy123]. Málaga, 13 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-79-SpongeBot.jpg|'''Clon #79: SpongeBot''' ''(R.I.P.)'', descendiente del clon '''Matrix''' (Alejandro ''«TCRobotics»'' Taracido. A Coruña, 27 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Telchar.JPG|'''Clon #122: [[Clone wars: Telchar|Telchar, Extrusor de Mithril]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''' (Paco ''«Paclón»'' Martos. Málaga, 16 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:PrusaCervi.jpg|'''Clon #136: PRUSACERVI''', descendiente del clon '''#53: [[Clone wars:Impresora Michaelmas|Michaelmas]]''' (Carlos ''«Cacer»'' Cervilla. Madrid, 12 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Super_8CW.jpg|'''Clon #187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'', descendiente de del clon '''#79: SpongeBot''' ''(R.I.P.)'' ([[User:XoanSampaiño|Xoan Sampaiño]]. A Coruña, 29 de marzo de 2013)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Consejero Jedi Supremo ===<br />
<br />
Clones que hayan parido '''dos clones''' totalmente operativos ''(Jedi)''.<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:Clon-mardan.jpg|'''Clon #4: [[Clone wars:Impresora Mardan|Mardan]]''', descendiente de '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Impresora_3D:MADRE MADRE]''' (Marco Esteban Illescas, UC3M. Madrid, 19 de enero de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-44-Othon.jpg|'''Clon #44: [[Clone_Wars:_Othon|Othon]]''', descendiente del clon '''#7: [[Clone_wars:Impresora PacleMAKER|PacleMAKER]]''' (Álvaro ''«Damrod»'' Ollero. Madrid, 22 de julio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-49-R5D5.jpg|'''Clon #49: [[Clone Wars: R5D5|R5D5]]''' (Raul Jimenez. Vitoria-Gasteiz, 11 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-75-bumblebee.png|'''Clon #75: Bumblebee''', descendiente del clon '''#30: [[Clone_wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''' (Ariadna Trueba y Juan Pedro López. Mollet del Vallès (Barcelona), 22 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:BlackKnight.jpg|'''Clon #100.06: Black Knight''', descendiente del clon '''#42: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Iteraci%C3%B3n_2:_R2-reloaded R2-Reloaded]''' (Nuria Almodóvar y J. Vicente Almodovar. Madrid, 21 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Jedi GrBot3D.jpg|'''Clon #125:, [[Clone Wars: Impresora GrBot3D|GrBot-3D]]''', descendiente de '''Plumabot-Gr''' (Federico Coca. Granada, 19 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Clon 133 Ronquio.jpg|'''Clon #133: [[Clone wars: Ronquío/es|Ronquío]]''', descendiente del clon '''#35: j&pi;''' (José Antonio Pérez Caparrós. Jaén, 28 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Hydra_foto3.jpg|'''Clon #135: [[Clone wars: Impresora Hydra|Hydra]]''', descendiente del clon '''#32: [http://fidelfraga.eu/content/impresora-3d Guaifi]''' (Sergi Pérez Labernia. Cornellà (Barcelona), 02 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:20121130_201247.jpg|'''Clon #155: CAZURRA''', descendiente del clon '''#2: [[Clone wars:Impresora Death Star|Death Star]]''' (Jose Ángel ''«Jakolete»''. León, 15 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Cacharro-600px.png|'''Clon #168: Cacharro''', descendiente del clon '''#29: [[Clone_wars: Impresora Gandalf the transparent|Gandalf the transparent]]''' (Vasil ''«Ark»'' Valkov. Tarragona, 8 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:BrTa220V.jpg|'''Clon #312: Breaking TAZ''', descendiente del clon '''#311: Ctrl-Z''' ([[User:MCVet|Mario Crespo]]. Pontevedra, 12 de enero de 2014)<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Consejero Jedi: Miembro del consejo jedi ===<br />
<br />
Clones que hayan parido '''un clon''' totalmente operativo ''(Jedi)''.<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:Clon-maese-artorius.jpg|'''Clon #3: [[Clone_wars:Impresora_Maese_Artorius|Maese Artorius]]''', descendiente de '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Impresora_3D:MADRE MADRE]''' (Arturo Vera García, UC3M. Madrid, 19 de enero de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon halcon milenario.png|'''Clon #5: [[Clone wars:Impresora Halcón Milenario|Halcón Milenario]]''' ([http://carlosgs.com/ Carlos García Saura] y [http://www.uam.es/crm Club de Robótica y Mecatrónica], UAM. Madrid, 27 de enero de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:IMG 1310.jpg|'''Clon #15: [[Clone wars: Impresora_Ociorum|Ociorum/Bricolabs]]''' ([http://www.ociorum.org/ Asociación Ociorum] y [http://bricolabs.cc/ Bricolabs]. A Coruña, 13 de abril de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Misan1-r1.png|'''Clon #19: [[Clone Wars: Impresora Black Misan|Black Misan]]''' (Miguel ''«Misan»'' Sánchez. Valencia, 23 de octubre de 2011) <br />
<br />
File:Misan2-r3.png|'''Clon #20: [[Clone Wars: Impresora Blue Misan|Blue Misan]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone Wars: Impresora Black Misan|Black Misan]]''' (Miguel ''«Misan»'' Sánchez. Valencia, 15 de marzo de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Ukraine-r1.png|'''Clon #21: [[Clone_wars:Impresora Ukraine|Ukraine]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone Wars: Impresora Black Misan|Black Misan]]''' y '''[[Clone Wars: Impresora Blue Misan|Blue Misan]]''' (Miguel ''«Misan»'' Sánchez. Valencia, 8 de abril de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-36-Pepa.jpg|'''Clon #36: [[Clone Wars: Impresora Pepa|Pepa]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone_wars:Impresora_Manuela|Manuela]]''' (Jose Ignacio Alonso. Valladolid, 28 de julio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:R2-Reloaded-decorada.png|'''Clon #42: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Iteraci%C3%B3n_2:_R2-reloaded R2-Reloaded]''', descendiente de '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Iteraci%C3%B3n_2:_R3 R3]''' ([http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Juan_Gonzalez:Main Juan ''«Obijuan»'' González Gómez]. Madrid, 28 de agosto de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:matrix_printer.png|'''Clon #48: [[Clone Wars: Matrix|Matrix]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Ociorum|Ociorum/Bricolabs]]''' (Diego Prado. Villalba (Lugo), 30 de agosto de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-51-MayPrintr.jpg|'''Clon #51: [[Clone wars:Impresora_MayPrinter|MayPrinter]]''' ''(R.I.P.)'', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars:_Impresora_Potato|Potato]]''' (Mariano ''«iPadNanito»'' Dapía. Algeciras (Cádiz), 12 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Laura.jpg|'''Clon #63: Laura Palmer''', descendiente de '''Guaifi''' (Alfredo Prado. Vigo, 12 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:20130108_Cauldron_2.jpg|'''Clon #100.01: [[Clone_wars:_Cauldron|Cauldron]]''', descendiente de '''Carbonite''' (José Ramón Macías. Colmenar Viejo (Madrid), 19 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:EA5PABLO.png|'''Clon #138: EA5''', descendiente de '''Mardan''' (Pablo Otón Zamora. Murcia, 30 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Avatar_jedim.jpg|'''Clon #143: [[Clone_Wars:_Impresora_AVATAR|AVATAR]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone_Wars:_Impresora_GrBot3D|GRBot-3D]]''' (Juan Robles. Granada, 10 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Venturprint_Jedi2.jpg|'''Clon #181: VENTURPRINT''', descendiente de '''Giskard''' ([[User:ClampareroCW|Carlos Lamparero]]. Colmenar Viejo (Madrid), 23 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Gort_201309.jpg|'''Clon #185: [[Clone wars:Impresora_Gort/es|Gort]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Uterus|Úterus]]''' (Jose M. Martín. Madrid, 3 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:R4i3.jpg|'''Clon #190: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Impresora_3D:_R4i3 R4i3]''', descendiente de '''R3''' ([http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Juan_Gonzalez:Main Juan ''«Obijuan»'' González Gómez] y [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Andr%C3%A9s_Prieto-Moreno Andrés Prieto-Moreno]. Madrid, 13 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Nabla.jpg|'''Clon #198: [[Clone Wars: Impresora Nabla|Nabla]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone_Wars:_Impresora_GrBot3D|GRBot-3D]]''' ([[User:MAfernandezCW|Miguel Ángel Fernández Rodríguez]]. Granada, 30 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW221-IG-88.jpg|'''Clon #221: IG-88''', descendiente del clon '''SpongeBot''' ''(R.I.P.)'' (Xarpe Serpe. Oleiros (A Coruña))<br />
<br />
File:VinciBot_reloaded.JPG|'''Clon #226: vinciBot reloaded''', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Uterus|Úterus]]''' y '''vinciBot''' (F. Malpartida. Málaga, 18 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Ctrl-Z.jpg|'''Clon #311: Ctrl-Z''', descendiente del clon '''#187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'' (Unseulmot. Pontevedra, 2 de agosto de 2013)<br />
<br />
<br />
File:KaminoMk1.JPG|'''Clon #452: Kamino''', descendiente de Progenitora(Juan Francisco Mateo (Miniatuario),Sevilla,10/11/2013)<br />
<br />
File:3Ridg.jpg |'''Clon #351:[[Proyecto Clone Wars/3Ridg|/3RidG]]''', descendiente del clon '''Rewok''', del clon '''#187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'' y del clon '''Ingenio''' (Antonio Arco ''«antoniobeta»''. Jaén, 31 de marzo de 2014)<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Jedi Masters ===<br />
<br />
Clones totalmente operativos, que han impreso al menos '''un juego de piezas''' para construir otro clon.<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:Clon-43-Tron.jpg|'''Clon #43: [[Clone_Wars:_Tron|Tron]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Death Star|Death Star]]''' (Ramon Rivas, Edgar Salas y Guillermo ''«G.W.C.»'' Welch. Madrid, 4 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-52-carbonite.png|'''Clon #52: [[Clone wars: Impresora Carbonite|Carbonite]]''' ([http://www.complubot.org Complubot]: Nerea de la Rivab, Iván Gallego y Eduardo Gallego. Alcalá de Henares (Madrid), 25 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Kneesaa.jpg|'''Clon #58: [[Clon Wars: Impresora Kneesaa|Kneesaa]]''', descendiente de '''[http://www.mbrobotics.es/Wiki/index.php?title=JOHNNY5 Johnny 5]''' (Roberto ''«Maxit»'' Cancela. Madrid, 25 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-71-Liperap.jpg|'''Clon #71: LipeRap''', descendiente de '''Cadesign''' (Pedro Clemente. Zaragoza, 22 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-74-LAAT.jpg|'''Clon #74: [[Clone Wars:Impresora LAAT|LAAT]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''' ([http://blog.2nand.com/ 2nand]: Jorge Balaguer y Antonio Carbonell. Mislata (Valencia), 20 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:nazgul_hijo_de_manuela.jpg|'''Clon #100.07: Nazgul''', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Manuela|Manuela]]''' (Ángel Andrés Lerena Pariente. Irún, 28 de diciembre de2012)<br />
<br />
File:Dokesprinter.JPG|'''Clon #129: DOKE''', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Daneel 3-law|Daneel 3-law]]''' (David Deza y Nerea Calvo. Bilbao, 27 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Abarthi2.jpg|'''Clon #146: Abarth''', descendiente de '''[[Clone_wars:Impresora_Mardan|Mardan]]''' (Josep Balaguer. Castell de Guadalest (Alicante), 12 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:impresora2.jpg|'''Clon #154: Wicket W. Warrick''', descendiente de '''[[Clone_wars:_Impresora_Uterus|Úterus]]''' (Juan Carlos Gavari Starkie. Barcelona, 21 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Ariel-i3 WEB.jpg|'''Clon #164: ARIEL''', descendiente de '''Giskard''' (Arturo Sancho. Vila-real (Castellón), 2 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Oktopus2.jpg|'''Clon #172: Oktopus''', descendiente de '''[[Clone_wars:Impresora_Mardan|Mardan]]''' ([[User:SbarrasCW|Sergio Barras]]. Madrid, 1 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Clockwork_Orange.jpg|'''Clon #180: Clockwork Orange''', descendiente de '''Black Night''' (Xherry. Navarra, 3 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW191-Zoltan.jpg|'''Clon #191: Zoltan''', descendiente de '''Cauldron''' (Alberto Otero. Rivas Vaciamadrid (Madrid), 14 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:printfles_3.jpg|'''Clon #201: [[Clone wars:Impresora Printfles|Printfles]]''' ([[User:Pifles|Pablo Bosch]]. Collado Villalba (Madrid), 28 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:PortaBee-Grillo.jpg|'''Clon #202: Grillo''', descendiente de '''[[Art-e-Facto]]''' (Miguel ''«Gredos»'' Herranz. Vallecas (Madrid), 25 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW203-Prusilio.jpg|'''Clon #203: Prusilio''' (Eduardo Dávila. Tenerife, 20 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:toxina.jpg|'''Clon #217: TOXINA''' ([[User:Chentinox|Vicente Centeno]]. Cantabria, 15 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:000116.jpg|'''Clon #228: PROTEUS''' (Pedro Lahuerta. Cuenca, 30 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW237-Caragolet de l_Oest.jpg|'''Clon #237: Caragolet de l'Oest''' (Francesc Adell. Almenar (Lleida), 17 de julio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:DSC_0417.jpg|'''Clon #241: Tantive IV''', descendiente del clon '''JAR JAR 140''' ([[User:VbarahonaCW|Victor Barahona ''«Sir Galaxy»'']]. Astigarraga (Gipuzkoa), 20 de julio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Yavin.jpg|'''Clon #243: [[Clone wars:Impresora Yavin|Yavin]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone Wars: Impresora Nabla|Nabla]]''' ([http://david.dantoine.org David Colmenero]. Motril (Granada), 5 de julio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:PrusaI3.jpg|'''Clon #246: [[Clone_Wars:_Impresora_LA_ISLA_3D|LA ISLA 3D]]''' ([[User:AcrespoCW|Abdón Crespo Sánchez]]. San Fernando (Cádiz), 11 de agosto de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:ASPrusa-actualizada.jpg|'''Clon #271: ASPrusa''', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Mardan|Mardan]]''' (Daniel García. Palencia)<br />
<br />
File:e03.jpg|'''Clon #303: E03''', descendiente de '''TelarBot''' (Victor Moliner. Vinaròs (Castellón), 15 de noviembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Kashyyyk.JPG|'''Clon #332: Kashyyyk''', ([[User:VbarahonaCW|Victor Barahona''«Sir Galaxy»'']]. Astigarraga (Gipuzkoa), 8 de diciembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Prusa i3 200px.png|'''Clon #345: Bitaqer''' (Bitaq. Getafe (Madrid), 23 de enero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Prusa i3 200px.png|'''Clon #347: Expósito Doblador Rodrigues''' (Joel P. Urcelay. Vitoria-Gasteiz, 19 de marzo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Hacks(2).jpg|'''Clon #363: Ahsoka Tano''', descendiente del clon '''#1: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel:_R2D2 R2D2]''' ''(R.I.P.)'' ([https://twitter.com/hackCS HackCS]. Castellón, 6 de mayo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW421-P3PO.jpg|'''Clon #421: [[Clone wars: P3PO| P3PO ]] ''' (Enrique González Lafuente ''«[[User:QueNoWert|QueNoWert]]»''. Córdoba, 26 de octubre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Talos.jpg|'''Clon #436: Talos''', ([[User:VbarahonaCW|Victor Barahona''«Sir Galaxy»'']]. Astigarraga (Gipuzkoa), 20 de noviembre de 2014)<br />
<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
=== Jedis ===<br />
<br />
Clones terminados, que hayan impreso '''al menos una pieza'''.<br />
<br />
==== 1-50 ====<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:Clon-Sonny-1.png|'''Clon #8: [[Clone wars:Impresora Sonny|Sonny]]''', descendiente de '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Impresora_3D:MADRE MADRE]''' ([http://sites.google.com/site/danielgomezlendinez/ Daniel Gómez], UC3M. Madrid, 7 de febrero de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon debugger 01-r1.jpg|'''Clon #11: [[Clone wars:Impresora Debugger|Debugger]]''' (28 de febrero de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Fenix-bot final 03.JPG|'''Clon #12: [[Clone wars:Impresora Fenix-bot|Fenix-bot]]''' (Raúl Barral. Burgos, 11 de marzo de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:ATAT.jpg|'''Clon #14: [[Clone_wars:Impresora AT-AT|AT-AT]]''' (Xavier Tamarit. 12 de abril de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-18-han.png|'''Clon #18: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Iteraci%C3%B3n_2:_Han Han]''', descendiente del clon '''#1: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel:_R2D2 R2D2]''' ''(R.I.P.)'' ([http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Andr%C3%A9s_Prieto-Moreno Andrés Prieto-Moreno Torres]. Santa Bárbara (California, USA), 6 de mayo de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-22-Grifo-r1.jpg|'''Clon #22: [[Clone_wars:Impresora Grifo|Grifo]]''' (Abraham Alvaro Jimenez y Nerea Alvaro Santos. Zamora, 18 de mayo de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Impresora Lucy 2 Junio 2012.jpg|'''Clon #24: [[Clone wars:Impresora Lucy|Lucy]]''', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Halcón Milenario|Halcón Milenario]]''' ([http://carlosgs.es/ Carlos García Saura], UAM. Madrid, 1 de junio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-25-Tiefighter.jpg|'''Clon #25: [[Clone wars:_TIEFighter|TIE Fighter]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Death Star|Deathstar]]''' (Fernando ''«Klonando»'' Salceda. Madrid, 11 de junio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-27-SHODAN.png|'''Clon #27: [[Clone wars: Impresora SHODAN|SHODAN]]''', descendiente del clon '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Iteraci%C3%B3n_2:_R3 R3]''' (Jaime García, UAM. Madrid, 17 de junio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-28-Dedalo.jpg|'''Clon #28: [[Clone wars: Impresora Dédadlo|Dédalo]]''', descendiente de '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Impresora_3D:PADRE PADRE]''' (David ''«[http://www.thingiverse.com/DEF DEF]»'' Estévez, UC3M. Madrid, 19 de junio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-31-Prusa-popoulus.jpg|'''Clon #31: [[Clone wars:Impresora Prusa-popoulus|Prusa-Popoulus]]''', descendiente del clon '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Iteraci%C3%B3n_2:_R3 R3]''' (Stathis Fotiadis. Grecia, 30 de junio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-33-P1.png|'''Clon #33: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Printerbot:_P1 P1]''' ([http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Juan_Gonzalez:Main Juan ''«Obijuan»'' González Gómez], UPM. Madrid, 11 de julio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-34-Marvin.png|'''Clon #34: Marvin''', descendiente de '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Mardan|Mardan]]''' (Martin Fodstad Stoelen, UC3M. Madrid, 12 de julio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-35-jP.jpg|'''Clon #35: j&pi;''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Maese Artorius|Maese Artorius]]''' (Itziar Lima Ramos y Juan Pablo Rodríguez García, UC3M. Madrid, 15 de julio de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon37-wendy.jpg|'''Clon #37: [[Clone wars:Impresora Wendy|Wendy]]''', descendiente de '''MADRE''' y de '''PADRE''' (Nieves ''«Nicuma»'' Cubo, UC3M. Madrid, 3 de agosto de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Abe.jpg|'''Clon #38: Abe''', descendiente del clon '''[http://fidelfraga.eu/content/impresora-3d Guaifi]''' (Javier ''«Jarec»'' Rebollo. Alcala de Guadaira (Sevilla), 11 de agosto de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-40-gallia-canarnova.jpg|'''Clon #40: Gallia''', descendiente de '''Madalena''' (Enrique Zanardi. Tenerife, 25 de agosto de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-45-PrusaHowarto.jpg|'''Clon #45: Arquímedes''', descendiente del clon '''#4: [[Clone wars:Impresora Mardan|Mardan]]''' (Diego ''«Howarto»'' Lao. Ibiza, 6 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-50-C3po.jpg|'''Clon #50: [[Clone_Wars:_C3PO|C3PO]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Manuela|Manuela]]''' (Alvaro Lara. Madrid, 17 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== 51-100 ====<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:Clon-54-eve.png|'''Clon #54: EVE (Nº6)''', descendiente del clon '''[http://www.mbrobotics.es/Wiki/index.php?title=JOHNNY5 Johnny 5]''' (Miguel Angel ''«[http://www.mbrobotics.es/MbRobotics/Main.html MABLACK]»'' Berna Alberola. 9 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-56-la-cosa.jpg|'''Clon #56: [[Impresora: la cosa|La cosa]]''', descendiente de '''[[Impresora Progenitora: Demiurgo|Demiurgo]]''' y del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Gandalf the transparent|Gandalf the transparent]]''' (Jorge Rodríguez Marín, UC3M. Madrid, 30 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-57-Unicorn.jpg|'''Clon #57: [[Impresora: unicorn|Unicorn]]''', descendiente de '''[[Impresora Progenitora: Demiurgo|Demiurgo]]''' y del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Gandalf the transparent|Gandalf the transparent]]''' ([http://roboticslab.uc3m.es/roboticslab/persona.php?id_pers=72 Juan G. Victores], UC3M. Madrid, 20 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-59-JJmachine.png|'''Clon #59: JJMachine''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Daneel 3-law|Daneel 3-law]]''' (José Gémez y Jimmmenez. Málaga, 20 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Dolly_18_Todo_Montado.JPG|'''Clon #60: [[Clone_wars:_Impresora_Dolly|Dolly]]''', descendiente del clon '''The Clon UA''' (J. Sevila y S. Ors. Alicante, 29 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-61-conguito3d.jpg|'''Clon #61: [[Clone wars: Impresora Conguito3D|Conguito3D]]''', descendiente del clon '''[http://www.mbrobotics.es/Wiki/index.php?title=JOHNNY5 Johnny 5]''' (DDREAM. Madrid, 25 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-62-Hefesto.jpg|'''Clon #62: [[Clone wars: Impresora Hefesto|Hefesto]]''', descendiente de '''[[Impresora Progenitora: Demiurgo|Demiurgo]]''' y del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Gandalf the transparent|Gandalf the transparent]]''' (Fernando Cerezal, UC3M. Madrid, 31 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-64-Ironhide.jpg|'''Clon #64: [http://imc9.blogspot.com.es/p/impresora-3d.html Irohide]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Daneel 3-law|Daneel 3-law]]''' (Ismael De Migel Cantero. Badajoz, 26 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Orange_Juice.jpg|'''Clon #65: Orange Juice''' (David F. Barcelona, 2 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-66-Nexus-6.jpg|'''Clon #66: Nexus 6''', descendiente del clon '''[http://www.mbrobotics.es/Wiki/index.php?title=JOHNNY5 Johnny 5]''' (Milo Barral. A Coruña, 3 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-67-T-800.jpg|'''Clon #67: T-800''', descendiente de '''[[Impresora Progenitora: Demiurgo|Demiurgo]]''' y '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Gandalf the transparent|Gandalf the transparent]]''' (Antonio Castro Gómez, UC3M. Madrid, 29 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-68-Lolita.jpg|'''Clon #68: Lolita''', descendiente de '''[[Impresora Progenitora: Demiurgo|Demiurgo]]''' y del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Gandalf the transparent|Gandalf the transparent]]''' (David Cabrera Rodríguez y Patricia Alba Talaverano, UC3M. Madrid, 4 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:ReciClon.jpg|'''Clon #69: ReciClon''', descendiente del clon '''#4: [[Clone wars:Impresora Mardan|Mardan]]''' (Antonio Escudero. Sevilla, 5 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-70-restaun3D.jpg|'''Clon #70: Restaun3D''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''' (Roberto Estaun Gil. Zaragoza, 9 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-72-terpsicore.jpg|'''Clon #72: [[Clone_wars:Impresora_Terpsicore|Terpsícore]]''' ''(R.I.P.)'', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Daneel 3-law|Daneel 3-law]]''' (Javier Briz. Zaragoza, 11 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-73-bender-doblador-rodriguez.jpg|'''Clon #73: [[Clone_wars:Impresora_Bender_doblador_rodríguez|Bender Doblador Rodríguez]]''' (Julián García Roger. Santa Cruz de Tenerife, 10 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-76-Arturo.jpg|'''Clon #76: [[Clone Wars:Impresora Arturo|Arturo]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora 3D-Prisa|3D Prisa]]''' (Daniel Vallejo Hernando. Madrid, 20 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-77-alcar.jpg|'''Clon #77: Alcar''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Manuela|Manuela]]''' (Jose Sánchez Sánchez. Barcelona, 25 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-78-Kubrick.jpg|'''Clon #78: [[Clone Wars: Impresora Kubrick|Kubrick]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Uterus|Úterus]]''' (Javier Marquevichi. Buenos Aires (Argentina), 20 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-80-VirPrusa.jpg|'''Clon #80: [[Clone Wars: Impresora VirPrusa|VirPrusa]]''', descendiente del clon '''Michaelmas''' (Francisco Montero. Dos Hermanas (Sevilla), 29 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon 81 Neutronium.jpg|'''Clon #81: Neutronium''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone_wars:Impresora_Daneel_3-law|Daneel 3-law]]''' (Degenerated Labs. Zaragoza, 6 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-82-odomatic.jpg|'''Clon #82: od-O-matic''', descendiente del clon '''Leapy''' (Ricardo Monsalve. Albacete, 2 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-83-droide-de-protocolo.jpg|'''Clon #83: Droide de Protocolo''', descendiente del clon '''#1: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel:_R2D2 R2D2]''' ''(R.I.P.)'' ([http://madebyfrutos.wordpress.com/ Miguel Ángel de Frutos], [http://www.aerobot.org.es AEROBOT Club de Robótica], ETS Ingenieros Aeronáuticos, UPM. Madrid, 3 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-84-Acrylic3.jpg|'''Clon #84: Acrylic3''', descendiente del clon '''Ukraine''' (Miguel ''«Misan»'' Sánchez. Valencia, 1 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-85-Maniotas.jpg|'''Clon #85: Maniotas''', descendiente del clon '''R2-Reloaded''' (Pablo Martínez y Rita López. Vigo, 3 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-86-Machado.jpg|'''Clon #86: Machado''', descendiente del clon '''[http://www.mbrobotics.es/Wiki/index.php?title=JOHNNY5 Johnny 5]''' (Ramón López. Pulpí (Almería), 4 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-87-Roi.jpg|'''Clon #87: [[Clone_Wars:_Roi|Roi]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone_Wars:_Othon|Othon]]''' (Juan Carlos ''«CAPI»'' Liébana. Arganda del Rey (Madrid), 4 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-88-Leapy.png|'''Clon #88: [[Clone Wars: Leapy|Leapy]]''', descendiente de '''[[Impresora Progenitora: Demiurgo|Demiurgo]]''' (LeapTo3D. Madrid, 6 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-89-Alfa3p.jpg|'''Clon #89: alfa 3P''', descendiente del clon '''Laura Palmer''' ([https://twitter.com/alexalfaya Alejandro Alfaya],[https://plus.google.com/u/0/117476712378301252435/posts Angel Gómez] y [https://twitter.com/sdaf2 Alejandro Valiñas]. Galicia, 6 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-90-esterpiscole.jpg|'''Clon #90: [[Clone_wars:Impresora_EsterPiscole|Ester Píscole]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Daneel 3-law|Daneel 3-law]]''' (Javier Briz. Zaragoza, 6 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-91-Babbage.jpg|'''Clon #91: Babbage''' (Syvic. Madrid, noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-92-The-orange-printwork.jpg|'''Clon #92: The Orange PrintWork''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora 3D-Prisa|3D Prisa]]''' (Iker Etxarte. Madrid, 9 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-93-Impresori.jpg|'''Clon #93: Impresori''', descendiente del clon '''PacleMAKER''' (Sasori Olkof. Palma de Mallorca, 9 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-94-Moebius.jpg|'''Clon #94: [[Clone wars Impresora Moebius|Moebius]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Uterus|Úterus]]''' (Luis Macías. Madrid, 11 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-95-litris-3D.png|'''Clon #95: Litris 3D''', descendiente del clon '''#4: [[Clone wars:Impresora Mardan|Mardan]]''' (Salvador Lario. Alicante, 12 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-96-Aitor.jpg|'''Clon #96: [[CloneWars: Impresora Aitor|Aitor]]''', descendiente del clon '''Geek-X-truder''' (Aitor Hernández. Zaragoza, 16 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon 97 Casillas 75.jpg|'''Clon #97: [[Clonewars: Impresora Casillas 75|Casillas 75]]''', descendiente de '''PlumaBot''' y del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora 3D-Prisa|3D Prisa]]''' (Borja Segovia. Casillas (Ávila), 16 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon 98 mama bot.png|'''Clon #98: [[Clone Wars: Papa quiero un robot: Mamabot|Mamabot]]''', descendiente del clon '''Geek-X-truder''' (Marcos Castillo. 16 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-99-lucas-clon.jpg|'''Clon #99: Lucas Clon''', descendiente del clon '''Y-Wing''' (Antonio J. Lucas. Salamanca, 14 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone 100 ANYA.jpg|'''Clon #100: ANYA''', descendiente del clon '''[http://www.mbrobotics.es/Wiki/index.php?title=JOHNNY5 Johnny 5]''' (Jose Luis Martínez. Alicante, noviembre de 2012)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== 101-150 ====<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:Clon 100 2 aFroman-3D.jpg|'''Clon #100.02: [[Clone_wars:_aFroman-3D|aFroman-3D]]''', descendiente de '''3DGDAF''' ([[User:AromanCW|Agustín Fernández]]. Getafe (Madrid), 19 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon 100 03 Estherterrestre.jpg|'''Clon #100.03: Estherterrestre''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Potato|Potato]]''' (Angel. Asturias, 19 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-100.04-stitch.jpg|'''Clon #100.04: Stitch''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone_wars:_Impresora_Potato|Potato]]''' (Santiago López. Madrid, 20 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-100.05-Cerberus.jpg|'''Clon #100.05: Cerberus''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora 3D-Prisa|3D Prisa]]''' (Carlos Medina Moreno. Madrid, 21 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clone-108-Lexmark printer.png|'''Clon #100.08: Lexmark''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Gandalf the transparent|Gandalf the transparent]]''' (Alex Jimenez. Martorell (Barcelona), 15 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Grecobot.JPG|'''Clon #100.09: Grecobot''', descendiente del clon '''Y-Wing''' (César Rangil, IES El Greco. Toledo, 25 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:CW100.10-Benlliure.jpg|'''Clon #100.10: Benlliure''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Uterus|Úterus]]''' (Jose Antonio Quevedo Muñoz. Guadalajara, 27 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:CWMagrathea.JPG|'''Clon #100.11: [[Clone wars:Impresora Magrathea|Magrathea]]''' (Mario Camou. Madrid, 28 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Togusha.jpg|'''Clon #100.12: Tachikoma''', descendiente del clon '''PacleMAKER''' (Jonás Rodriguez Placeres. Lanzarote , 28 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Esfinger_printer.jpg|'''Clon #100.13: Esfinger''', descendiente del clon '''#4: Mardan''' (Francisco Javier García, Tomelloso (Ciudad Real), 28 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Impresora_santiago_prego.jpg|'''Clon #100.14: Pirate''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Uterus|Úterus]]''' (Santiago Prego. Fene (A Coruña), 28 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Impresora_Bruno.JPG|'''Clon #100.15: Bruno''', descendiente del clon '''Geek-X-truder''' (Daniel Ferrer. Zaragoza, 30 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Impresora_renovatio.jpg|'''Clon #100.16: [[Clone Wars:_Impresora_Renovatio|Renovatio]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Uterus|Úterus]]''' (Julio Galarón. Madrid, 31 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Porta3.jpg|'''Clon #100.17: RinceWind''', descendiente del clon '''Michaelmas''' (Luis ''«Macnetic»'' del Olmo. Valladolid, 31 de diciembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:ClonX-Jaume.g.jpg|'''Clon #118: X''', descendiente del clon '''Johnny 5''' (Jaume G. Barcelona, 1 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW119-PocketP3D.jpg|'''Clon #119: PocketP3D''', descendiente del clon '''Johnny 5''' (Julián Carrillo. Madrid, 3 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Impresora_Exoudina3D.jpg|'''Clon #120: Exoudina3D''', descendiente del clon '''Y-Wing''' (Juanma ''«Exodus»''. Granada, 4 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:3D-JAM.jpg|'''Clon #121: 3D-JAM''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Gandalf the transparent|Gandalf the transparent]]''' (Enrique Martínez. Zaragoza, 6 de octubre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Khan.jpg|'''Clon #123: Khan''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Rewok|Rewok]]''' (Ignacio Mora. Zaragoza, 16 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Prusita2.jpg|'''Clon #124: [[Clone Wars: Impresora Queen Mother|Queen Mother]]''', descendiente del clon '''Johnny 5''' (Sjædric Moreno. Barcelona, 20 de noviembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Blue_Blood.JPG|'''Clon #126: Blue_Blood''', descendiente del clon '''#4: [[Clone wars:Impresora Mardan|Mardan]]''' (Jorge Fernández. Madrid, 19 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
Foto_LdMPrinter_R_01.jpg|'''Clon #127: LdMPrinter-R-01''' (Gonzalo Hernández. Yecla (Murcia), 23 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:BD.jpg|'''Clon #128: BLUE DEMON''' (Daniel Mercado. Culiacan Sinaloa (Mexico), 24 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Gcast_1imprus.JPG|'''Clon #130: G-Cast''', descendiente del clon '''#4: [[Clone wars:Impresora Mardan|Mardan]]''' (Fabian ''«MioCid»'' Vargas. Guadalajara (Mexico), 28 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:LCD CHU.jpg|'''Clon #131: ChUnthor''', descendiente del clon '''Geek-X-Truder''' ([[User:Ocellet|Javier Pajares]]. Igualada (Barcelona), 22 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:estado.jpg|'''Clon #132: Robotín''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Bender_doblador rodríguez|Bender Doblador Rodríguez]]''' ([https://plus.google.com/u/0/110556455513477816958/posts Julián García Roger]. Santa Cruz de Tenerife, 26 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Impresora_giskard.jpg|'''Clon #134: [[Clone wars:Impresora Giskard|Giskard]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora EsterPiscole|Ester Píscole]]''' (Alejandro Suárez y Javier Briz. Zaragoza, 29 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Ladelprint.jpg|'''Clon #137: LadelPrint''', descendiente del clon '''Guaifi''' (David Pousada. Sada (A Coruña), 30de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:IMG 20130315 212951.jpg|'''Clon #139: Plottercín3d''', descendiente del clon '''Othon''' ([[User:CgarciaWC|Carlos García Fernández]]. Madrid, 27 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:JarJar2.jpg|'''Clon #140: Jar Jar''', descendiente de '''Mardan''' (Lizar Azkune. Zarautz (Gipúzkoa), 1 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:El_trasto.JPG|'''Clon #141: [[Clone wars:Impresora Trasto|El Trasto]]''', descendiente del clon '''#4: Mardan''' (Jorge Herrero Esteban-Infantes. Simancas (Madrid), 3 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW142-Bruniik.jpg|'''Clon #142: Bruniik''', descendiente del clon '''Y-Wing''' (Adrian ''«adroqui»'' R. Pere de Ribes (Barcelona), 5 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Matriuska.jpg|'''Clon #144: [[Clone wars:Impresora Matriuska|Matriuska]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Daneel 3-law|Daneel 3-law]]''' (Manuel Bocos. Burgos, 10 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:SprintFull.png|'''Clon #145: SprintFull''', descendiente del clon '''Y-Wing''' (''SkilFull''. Rivas (Madrid), 1 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:fradesamolder.jpg|'''Clon #147: [[Clone_wars:fradesamolder|fradesamolder]]''', descendiente del clon '''Gandalf the transparent''' (Santiago de Compostela, 10 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Shmi skywalker b.jpg|'''Clon #148: Shmi Skywalker''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Manuela|Manuela]]''' (Nicholas ''«MVX15»'' Dawe. Pamplona, 10 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW149-LEM.jpg|'''Clon #149: LEM''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''' y del clon '''Y-Wing''' (''Delcotron''. Murcia, 4 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:MeMe.JPG|'''Clon #150: MeMe''', descendiente del clon '''Ester Píscole''' y del clon '''Giskard''' (Carlos ''«CADesigns»'' Monreal. Zaragoza, 16 de febrero de 2013)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== 151-200 ====<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:CW151-morpi.jpg|'''Clon #151: [[Clone Wars: Impresora morpi|morpi]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Uterus|Úterus]]''' (José Ángel Martínez. Murcia, 28 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:FotoPenBot.jpg|'''Clon #152: [[Clone wars:Impresora PenBot|PenBot]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Uterus|Úterus]]''' (Manuel ''«leobot»'' Hidalgo. Albacete, 9 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Ger-truder-nacimiento.jpg|'''Clon #153: [[Clone wars: Impresora Ger-truder|Ger-truder]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Geek-X-truder|Geek-X-truder]]''' (Antonio Morales. Almería, 20 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:PrusaIcaro.JPG|'''Clon #156: ICARO''' (Jose Manuel Martinez Ortega. Novelda (Alicante), 22 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:butana.jpg|'''Clon #157: [https://plus.google.com/photos/+FernandoBueno/albums/5848989618489488385 Butana]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora 3D-Prisa|3D Prisa]]''' (Fernando Bueno. Aranjuez (Madrid), 24 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:La_foto5.JPG|'''Clon #158: Nida''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Daneel 3-law|Daneel 3-law]]''' ([[User:JvitonCW|JJViton]]. Alcala de Henares, 10 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Starken_big.JPG|'''Clon #159: Starken''', descendiente del clon '''#4: Mardan''' (Emilio José Morán Hevia. Valladolid, 20 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Impresora_greenhornet.jpg|'''Clon #160: Green Hornet''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''' (Andrés González Prérez. La Laguna (Tenerife), 26 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW161-Ima.jpg|'''Clon #161: Ima''', descendiente del clon '''#4: Mardan''' (Marciano de la Hoz. Ciudad Real, 28 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Tramuntana3D.jpg|'''Clon #162: Tramuntana3D''', descendiente del clon '''Ester Píscole''' (Lluís ''«lluvi»'' Vilarrúbies. Girona, 3 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:ImpresorahothI.JPG|'''Clon #163: Hoth I''', descendiente del clon '''PacleMAKER''' (Pau Chafer. Valencia, 19 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW165-Goliath|'''Clon #165: Goliath''', descendiente del clon '''Tron''' (David ''«Ghosthawk»'' González. Bilbao, 1 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:ImpresoraKAZA.png|'''Clon #166: KAZA''', descendiente del clon '''Gandalf the transparent''' (Valentín Cancelas y Gonzalo Alonso. Vigo, 3 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW167-DRACO.jpg|'''Clon #167: DRACO''', descendiente del clon '''MakerMex''' (Eduardo Álvarez. Aguascalientes (Mexico), 3 de febrero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW169-C-Wing.jpg|'''Clon #169: C-Wing''', descendiente del clon '''Bumblebee''' ([https://sites.google.com/a/pentabyte.es/chemadesigns/ Chema]. Manresa, 9 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW170-B-Ri2-D2.jpg|'''Clon #170: B-Ri2-D2''' (Israel Berrido Subires y Alejandro Berrido Suibires. Málaga, 10 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW171-JENDRINATOR.jpg|'''Clon #171: JENDRINATOR''', descendiente del clon '''Michaelmas''' ([[User:AchornetCW|Adria Chornet]]. Tarragona, 12 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW173-UCOprinter.jpg|'''Clon #173: UCOprinter''', descendiente del clon '''Y-Wing''' (Exergy123. Córdoba, 19 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW174-Pepabot.jpg|'''Clon #174: Pepabot''', descendiente del clon '''Y-Wing''' (Juanma Tirado. Málaga, 19 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW175-Z-Wing.jpg|'''Clon #175: Z-Wing''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''', '''Y-Wing''' y '''UCOprinter''' (Exergy123. Málaga, 19 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Ldp.jpg|'''Clon #176: AT-TE_LDP''', descendiente del clon '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Iteraci%C3%B3n_2:_R3 R3]''' ([http://ldp.etsii.upm.es Laboratorio de Desarrollo de Productos], UPM. Madrid, 21 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:ribosome.jpg|'''Clon #177: [[Clone wars: Impresora Ribosome|Ribosome]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Uterus|Uterus]]''' ([[User:yOPERO|yOPERO]]. Madrid, 19 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Prusikito.jpg|'''Clon #178: [[Clone wars: Impresora Prusikito|Prusikito]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Manuela|Manuela]]''' (Fernando Murillo y Elena de Pedro. Getafe (Madrid), 22 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Skullpt Foto.jpg|'''Clon #179: Skullpt''' ([[User:RalvarezCW|RalvarezCW]]. Écija (Sevilla), 24 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:IronHide30.jpg|'''Clon #182: Iron Hide 3.0''', descendiente del clon '''IronHide''' (Ismael ''«Driftwr»'' De Miguel.Vírgen de Guadalupe (Badajoz))<br />
<br />
File:tkl.jpg|'''Clon #183: TKL 1.0''', descendiente del clon '''Bumblebee''' (Ángel ''«Trocolo»'' Fernández. Madrid, 21 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:KalosW.JPG|'''Clon #184: [[Clone wars:_Impresora_Kalos|Kalos]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora MayPrinter|MayPrinter]]''' (Mariano ''«[http://twitter.com/iPadNanito iPadNanito]»'' Dapía. Algeciras (Cádiz), 28 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:FotoPrintFloyd.jpg|'''Clon #186: Print Floyd''', descendiente del clon '''3D-Jam''' (Jorge Pascual. Zaragoza, 7 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:bruce.jpg|'''Clon #188: BruceIsPrinting''', descendiente del clon '''SpongeBot''' ''(R.I.P.)'' ([[User:pinwi|Pinwi]]. Pontedeume (A Coruña), 10 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:capitanestado.jpg|'''Clon #189: CAPITAN CRUNCH''', descendiente del clon '''Guaifi''' (Miguel ''«Miguif»'' Federico. Santiago de Compostela, 12 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:SAV_Vader.jpg|'''Clon #192: SAV Vader''', descendiente del clon '''Prusacervi''' (Carlos ''«Cacer»'' Cervilla. Madrid, 13 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:WALLE.JPG|'''Clon #193: WALL-E (Nº7)''', descendiente del clon '''[http://www.mbrobotics.es/Wiki/index.php?title=JOHNNY5 Johnny 5]''' ([http://www.mbrobotics.es/MbRobotics/Main.html Miguel Angel ''«MABLACK»'' Berna Alberola)]. 6 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Printy.jpg|'''Clon #194: Printy''', descendiente del clon '''CAZURRA''' (Ruben Ferrero. León, 17 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW195-Paco Prime.jpg|'''Clon #195: Paco Prime''' (David Leal. Málaga, 20 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:dalek sec foto.jpg|'''Clon #196: Dalek_Sec''', descendiente del clon '''JJMachine''' (Manu Barranco. Madrid, 22 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW197-Eprintnefrina.jpg|'''Clon #197: Eprintnefrina''' (Maria López y Ángel Ruiz. Melilla, 18 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Spica01.jpg|'''Clon #199: [[Clone wars Impresora Spica|Spica]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars Impresora Moebius|Moebius]]''' (Adrián Alonso y Luis Macías. Madrid, 19 de marzo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW200-CopyPrintBot.jpg|'''Clon #200: CopyPrintBot''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Michaelmas|Michaelmas]]''' ([[User:Grunin|Grunin Nano]]. Barcelona, 2 de mayo de 2013)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== 201-250 ====<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:Prusaneurobot.png|'''Clon #203: [[Clone Wars: Impresora NeuroBot|NeuroBot]]''', descendiente del clon '''Avatar''' ([[User:JtorralbaCW|Jose M. Torralba]]. Granada, 4 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW204-BLU3.png|'''Clon #204: BLU3''', descendiente del clon '''Carbonite''' ([http://complubot.org Complubot]. Alcalá de Henares (Madrid), 4 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW205.jpg|'''Clon 205''' (OskarLGS. Cantabria, 5 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Prusa 2 GADES 1imp.jpg|'''Clon #206: GADES''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''' (Rafa Pinilla. Cádiz, 5 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW207-Prusimus Prime.jpg|'''Clon #207: [[Clone Wars:Impresora Prusimus prime|Prusimus Prime]]''', descendiente del clon '''#256: Herbie''' (Ariadna Trueba y Juan Pedro López. Mollet del Vallès (Barcelona), 8 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW208-ROBOTIJO.jpg|'''Clon #208: ROBOTIJO''', descendiente del clon '''The Clon UA''' (Paco Martínez. Alicante, 9 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:DAISY.jpg|'''Clon #209: DAISY''', descendiente del clon '''R5D5''' (Sergio García. Alcalá de Henares (Madrid), 12 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Prusa_i3_mini.jpg|'''Clon #210: Delorean''', descendiente del clon '''Ester Píscole''' (Jose Julio. Tenerife, 12 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:PrintrBot_cableada.jpg|'''Clon #211: Chubaca''', descendiente del clon '''PacleMAKER''' (Enrique Rodríguez. Madrid, 16 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW212-Destriers.jpg|'''Clon #212: Destriers''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars: Telchar|Telchar]]''' (Jose Raúl Montero. Málaga, 18 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Corbusi.jpg|'''Clon #213: Le Corbu''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Geek-X-truder|Geek-X-truder]]''' (Alberto Martínez. Zaragoza, 25 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:RoyBatty.JPG|'''Clon #214: Roy Batty''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora R5D5|R5D5]]''' (Juan Moreno. Vitoria, 8 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Bolisa.JPG|'''Clon #215: Bolisa''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora Giskard|Giskard]]''' (Cipri Ballester. Zaragoza, 29 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:OrionNoB.jpg|'''Clon #216: Orion''', descendiente de '''[[Impresora Progenitora: Demiurgo|Demiurgo]]''' y del clon '''[[Clone wars: Impresora Gandalf the transparent|Gandalf the transparent]]''' (Daniel López. Madrid, 30 de septiembre de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-217-SpongeBot_Reloaded_.png|'''Clon #218: SpongeBot Reloaded''', descendiente del clon '''#187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'' (Alejandro ''«TCRobotics»'' Taracido. A Coruña, 1 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Prusai2sprint.jpg|'''Clon #219: Sprintfield''', descendiente del clon '''#30: [[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''' y del clon '''#55: Y-Wing''' ([[User:AlunaCW|Alvaro Luna]]. Sevilla, 31 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:modificado.jpg|'''Clon #220: Geth''', descendiente del clon '''#135: [[Clone wars: Impresora Hydra|Hydra]]''' ([[User:Jmgarrocho|José María Garrocho]]. Sabadell, 9 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Clon_nono.jpg|'''Clon #222: Nono''', descendiente del clon '''ROBOTIJO''' (Paco Gallud. Alicante, 10 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:TelarBot1.jpg|'''Clon #223: TelarBot''', descendiente del clon '''Ester Píscole''' (Julián García. Zamora, 7 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Gutemberg.jpg|'''Clon #224: Gutenberg''', descendiente del clon '''Gandalf the transparent''' y del clon '''Geek-X-truder''' (Javier Montesa, José Luis Poza y Ricardo Pérez. Zaragoza, 18 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Imprusora_Filosofal.jpg|'''Clon #225: Imprusora Filosofal''', descendiente del clon '''Giskard''' (Sergio MC. Real Cortijo de San Isidro, 18 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Bender_1.0.JPG|'''Clon #227: Bender 1.0''', descendiente del clon '''Giskard''' (Iván Ramírez Beltrán. Huelva, 29 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:DELOREAN-QueNoWert-225x300.jpeg|'''Clon #229: deLOReAn''' (Enrique ''«QueNoWert»'' González Lafuente. Lora del Rio (Sevilla), 17 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:00000.jpg|'''Clon #230: Malospelos''', descendiente del clon '''#30: X-Wing''' (Felix Arias. San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid), 2 de julio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Cl4p-tp.jpg|'''Clon #231: CL4P-TP''' (Martí Serra. Barcelona, 15 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:forrata2.jpg|'''Clon #232: FORRATA''', descendiente del clon '''#4: Mardan''' ([[User:DAlonsoCW|David Alonso]]. Madrid, 6 de julio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW233-Prisma.jpg|'''Clon #233: Prisma''', descendiente del clon '''Telchar''' (prisma_cw. Malaga, 15 de julio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:EWOK IT2.JPG|'''Clon #234: EWOK''' (Sushimarc. Girona, 6 de julio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Solo_001_Thumb.jpg|'''Clon #235: Solo''', descendiente del clon '''PacleMAKER''' ([[User:JponceCW|Josep Ponce]]. Girona, 16 de julio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:TATU.jpg|'''Clon #236: TATU''' (Tatuin. Girona, 25 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW238-FrankenPrusa.jpg|'''Clon #238: FrankenPrusa''', descendiente del clon '''VENTURPRINT''' (Juan García Rodríguez y David Mayor Fernández. Burgos, 1 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:prusanoa.jpg|'''Clon #239: NOA Prusa''', descendiente del clon '''Lucas Clon''' (Adolfo Castaño. Zamora, 29 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:ImprusinhoConPeza.jpg|'''Clon #240: Imprusiño''', descendiente del clon '''PacleMAKER''' (Iván, Kevin, Pablo, María, Rita, Cris e Lydia, CPI de Atios. Valdoviño (A Coruña), 3 de mayo de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:2013-07-27-1660.jpg|'''Clon #242: PrusaMod''', descendiente del clon '''Toxina''' ([[User:Chentinox|Vicente Centeno]]. Santa Cruz de Bezana (Cantabria), 30 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:General grevious prusa II.jpg|'''Clon #243: [[Clone Wars: General_Grevious|General Grevious]]''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone Wars: Impresora GrBot3D|GrBot3D]]''' (Juan Carlos Joya Clares. Granada, 3 de julio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:TalaPrusa.png|'''Clon #244: TalaPrusa''' (Antonio Navarro. Talavera de la Reina (Toledo), 11 de agosto de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:K-9-YA.JPG|'''Clon #245: K-9-YA''', descendiente del clon '''Ironhide 3.0''' (Manuel Lucio. Burgos, 22 de agosto de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Paxpan3dimp.jpg|'''Clon #247: Paxpan 3D''' ([[User:GvelascoCW|Guillermo Velasco]]. Artziniega (Alava), 25 de agosto de 2013)<br />
File:CW248-B.E.N.jpg|'''Clon #248: B.E.N''', descendiente del clon '''Mardan''' (Rafael. Madrid, 20 de agosto de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Winebot2.png|'''Clon #249: Winebot''' (Pedro Pérez. Jumilla (Murcia), 16 de agosto de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:MagicMirrorPrusa.jpg|'''Clon #250: Magic Mirror Prusa''' ([[User:JpinedoCW|José Pinedo]]). Vilagarcía de Arousa (Pontevedra), 26 de agosto de 2013)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== 251-300 ====<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:The_Red_Baron.jpg|'''Clon #251: Red Baron''', descendiente del clon '''Black Knight''' (El equipo Almodóvar. Madrid, 1 de septiembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:IMAG0691.jpg|'''Clon #252: RedSkin''', descendiente del clon '''Zoltanthor''' (Sevilla, 1 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:BobMarlin.jpg|'''Clon #253: BobMarlin''' (Robertmika. Reus (Tarragona), 17 de septiembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Kyle_22-08-2013.jpg|'''Clon #254: [[Clone Wars:Impresora kyle|Kyle]]''' (Alejandro Nieto. Narón (A Coruña), 22 de agosto de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Boneca.png|'''Clon #255: Boneca''', descendiente del clon '''#187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'' (Pablo Blanco. Carballo (A Coruña), 23 de septiembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Herbie_asimov_256.png|'''Clon #256: Herbie''', descendiente del clon '''Giskard''' (Asimov. Zaragoza, 25 de septiembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW257-Leonardo.jpg|'''Clon #257: Leonardo''', descendiente del clon '''Ester Píscole''' (irobri. Zaragoza, 5 de abril de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:prusamendel_gengiskhan.JPG|'''Clon #258: [http://www.semanasphera.es/?q=es/node/6 Genghis Khan]''', descendiente del clon '''[http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Prusa_Mendel_Iteraci%C3%B3n_2:_R2-reloaded R2-RELOADED]''' ([http://www.semanasphera.es Asociación de electrónica], UPM. Madrid, 10 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:prusai3_thor.JPG|'''Clon #259: [[Clone Wars: Thor|Thor]]''', descendiente del clon '''#165: Goliath''' (juvaber. Valencia, 16 de septiembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Gladiator.jpg|'''Clon #262: Gladiator''', descendiente del clon '''#187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'' (Daniel ''«dalogax»'' López García. A Coruña, 16 de septiembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW277-PrintexD.jpg|'''Clon #277: PrintexD''', descendiente del clon '''#187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'' (Sebastián Gallardo. Badajoz, 13 de octubre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:SilviBot3D.jpg|'''Clon #278: SilviBot3D''' (Rubén Pedraza. Cartaya (Huelva), 15 de octubre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW280-WhitePrawn.jpg|'''Clon #280: WhitePrawn''', descendiente del clon '''Goliath''' (Manuel Fernández. Lepe (Huelva), 18 de octubre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:element_115.jpg|'''Clon #282: Element 155''', descendiente del clon '''Rewok''' ([http://reprapz.com Lucas de los Ríos]. Santander, 27 de octubre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Pluton1.jpg|'''Clon #283: PLUTON''', descendiente del clon '''Z-Wing''' (Eduardo Múgica. Ansoain (Navarra), 18 de octubre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Chewaaka.jpg|'''Clon #288: CHEWAAKA''', descendiente del clon '''# 168 CACHARRO''' (whoisnosferatu. Tarragona (Catalunya), 1 agosto de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Impresora_Torcal.jpg|'''Clon #290: TORCAL''', descendiente del clon '''Rewok''' (Paco Ríos. Alcalá de Henares (Madrid), 20 de octubre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:YODA.v1.jpg|'''Clon #291: [[User:TCalsCW|YODA]]''', descendiente de clon '''#187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'' ([http://cptiocals.utopias.tv ''«Tio Cals»'']. BdC. Valencia, 12 de Marzo de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:The Purpple Angel2.JPG|'''Clon #292: The Purpple Angel''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone_wars:_Ronquío/es|Ronquío]]''' (Jose Antonio Pérez Caparrós. Vera (Almería), 16 de octubre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Alextrasza.jpg|'''Clon #296: Alextrasza''', descendiente del clon '''#256: Herbie''' ([[User:Jbabio|Jbabio]]. A Coruña, 16 de diciembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Ingenio1.0.jpg|'''Clon #298: Ingenio''', descendiente del clon '''#187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'' ([[User:Fid|Fid]]. Madrid, 27 de diciembre de 2013)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== 301-350 ====<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:SUSII.jpg|'''Clon #302: SUSI I''' ([[User:alejoair|Alejandro Cuartas]]. Medellin (Colombia), 27 de diciembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW305-Tatooine.jpg|'''Clon #305: [[Clone wars: Impresora Tatooine|Tattoine]]''', descendiente del clon '''#4: Mardan''' (Isaac Muro. Barcelona, 7 de enero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Golem.jpg|'''Clon #307: [[Clone wars: Impresora Golem|Golem]]''', descendiente del clon '''#228: Proteus''' (Pedro Lahuerta. Cuenca, 10 de enero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:aiculina.jpg|'''Clon #308: Aiculina''', descendiente del clon '''#120: Exoudina3D''' (Juanma ''«Exodous»''. Granada, 4 de enero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW309-Eireland.jpg|'''Clon #309: Éireland''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone wars:Impresora X Wing|X-Wing]]''' (''Cardiak Brain''. Ourense, 14 de enero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW315-Trollslanda.png|'''Clon #315: Tröllslanda''', descendiente del clon '''R3''' (Pedro Rivera. Suecia, 12 de marzo de 2012)<br />
<br />
File:PATUSA.jpg|'''Clon #317: PATUSA''' (PATMURT. Ciudad Real, 18 de enero de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:agrobot_foto.jpg|'''Clon #318: AgroBot''', descendiente del clon '''#187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'' (Carlos Gende. Cerceda (A Coruña), 29 de enero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Sputnik_final.JPG|'''Clon #319: SPUTNIK''' (Héctor Pérez. Zamora, 14 de noviembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW_Shai-Hulud.jpg|'''Clon #320: Shai-Hulud''', descendiente del clon '''#185: Gort''' (Jose M. Martín. Madrid, 3 de febrero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:roseta_foto.jpg|'''Clon #321: Roseta''' (David, UPV. Valencia, 29 de enero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Clon-323-LMakerXY.jpg|'''Clon #323: [[Clone wars Impresora LMakerXY|LMakerXY]]''', descendiente del clon '''Spica''' (Luis Macías. Madrid, 1 de febrero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:pruss.jpg|'''Clon #325: Metaprint''' (Miguelop24. Cádiz, 9 de febrero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Creabot.jpg|'''Clon #330: CreaBot''' (AngelLM. Madrid, 2 de febrero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:3Doe.jpg|'''Clon #333: 3Doe''' (Francisco Molina. Las Palmas, 21 de octubre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:I3_stryper.jpg|'''Clon #334: [[Clone Wars: Impresora Stryper|Stryper]]''' ([[User:lokus77|LoKuS77]]. Pamplona, 10 de Febrero de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:PopCW.jpg|'''Clon #335: Pop''', descendiente del clon '''#187: Super 8''' ''(R.I.P)'' ([[User:XoanSampaiño|Xoan Sampaiño]]. A Coruña, 7 de marzo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Shin_i3.jpg|'''Clon #338: Shin''' (Dv. León, 8 de marzo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Non-Bastar-D.png|'''Clon #344: Non-Bastar-D''' ([[User:juangines77|Juan Ginés González]]. Barcelona - La Llagosta, 02 de febrero del 2014<br />
<br />
File:SOMOS_1_a.jpg|'''Clon #346: SOMOS 1''', (Alfonso ''«Foxterl»''. Madrid, 21 de marzo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:S117.jpg|'''Clon #350: S-117''', descendiente del clon '''[[Clone Wars: Impresora Hydra|Hydra]]''' (Sergi Pérez Labernia. Cornellà (Barcelona), septiembre de 2013)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== 351-400 ====<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:CW353-ZZYZX.jpg|'''Clon #353: ZZYZX''', descendiente del clon '''Clockwork Orange''' (Asiertxo. Estella Lizarra (Navarra), 10 de junio de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:T-800.jpg|'''Clon #355: T-800''', descendiente del clon '''VinciBot reloaded''' (F. Malpartida. Málaga, 16 de agosto de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:i3d_darth_vader.png|'''Clon #358: Darth Vader''', descendiente del clon '''Gladiator''' (''Scrawny''. A Coruña, 17 de abril de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW361.jpg|'''Clon #361''', descendiente de '''Wicket W. Warrick''' (Alumnos del Instituto Gorgs. 28 de abril de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:WeecheeWarrick.jpeg|'''Clon #362: Weechee''' (PepeChorva, Instituto Gorgs. 6 de marzo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Hagane.jpg|'''Clon #365: HaGaNe v.1''' (Jose Luis ''«JLLJ»'' López. Marbella (Málaga), 9 de mayo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:IMG-20140511-WA0011.jpg|'''Clon #366: Terpsícores''', descendiente del clon '''Ester Píscole''' (Javier Briz. Zaragoza, 5 de mayo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW367-Gen.XYZ.jpg|'''Clon #367: Gen.XYZ''', descendiente del clon '''Golem''' (Juan Jesus Cobo. Lliria (Valencia), 15 mayo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Aleste1.png|'''Clon #372: Aleste''', descendiente del clon '''Goliath''' ([[User:AradyelCW|AradyelCW]]. Montevideo (Uruguay), 30 de mayo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:SoPhi.jpg|'''Clon #373: SoPhi''', Prusa i3 Hephestos (Jose Luis V. Cerceda (Madrid), 30 de Mayo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:MIAU.jpg|'''Clon #374: M.I.A.U.''', descendiente del clon '''#223: TelarBot''' (Rcccort. Torrejón de Ardoz (Madrid), 6 de Junio de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW377-Cheewrafa.jpg|'''Clon #377: Cheewrafa''' (RtorresCW, Valencia, 9 de junio de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Rulobot.jpg|'''Clon #379: Rulobot''', descendiente del clon '''#223: TelarBot''' (Raúl González. Madrid, 12 de junio de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW382-Endeavour.jpg|'''Clon #382: [[Clone Wars: Impresora Endeavour|Endeavour]]''' (Fermar. Barcelona, 15 de septiembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:Creature2099_impresora.jpg|'''Clon #383: [[Clone wars:Impresora Creature2099|Creature2099]]''' (betox2099. Guadajalara, México, 21 de junio de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Printeriscoming.png|'''Clon #384: Printer is Coming''', descendiente del '''Clon #312: Breaking TAZ''' (Unseulmot. Pontevedra, 5 de junio de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW-Alvarutix_3D.jpg|'''Clon #385: Alvarutix 3D''', descendiente del '''Clon #152: PenBot''' (Álvaro Martínez. Albacete, 30 de abril de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW386-ATx-ATx.jpg|'''Clon #386: ATx-ATx''', descendiente del '''Clon #347: Expósito Doblador Rodríguez''' (MrPlotters. Pontevedra, 7 de julio de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Prometheus.jpg|'''Clon #387: Prometheus''', descendiente del '''Clon #26: Rewok''' (RodaXXI. Valladolid, 11 de julio de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW396-a+n.jpg|'''Clon #396: a+n''' (Kapoll. Alicante, 13 de agosto de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Enredinator-3d-Printer-Prusa-Alberto-Morales.PNG|'''Clon #397: [http://albertomorales.eu/construccion-de-la-enredinator-impresora-3d-prusa-it2-pagina-principa Enredinator]''' ([[User:Tucho|Alberto Morales]]. Madrid, 17 de agosto de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Bigbossnas.jpg|'''Clon #400: Big Boss Nass'''(Handey - Mahón (Menorca) I. Baleares)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== 400-450 ====<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
<br />
File:CW401-Chocarrat_printer.jpg|'''Clon #401: Chocarrat''' (Javier Peña. Almería, 20 de agosto de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW402-Matrioska1.jpg|'''Clon #402: Matrioska''' (JdiazCW. Albacete, 2 de septiembre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW403-Cooper.jpg|'''Clon #403: Cooper''', descendiente del '''Clon #91: Babbage''' (kwendenarmo. Madrid, 5 de septiembre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW405-Riddick.jpg|'''Clon #405: Riddick''', descendiente del '''Clon #310''' (Sergi ''«CeledaBcn»''. Barcelona, 25 de agosto de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:vulcano.png|'''Clon #409: Vulcano''', descendiente del '''Clon #307: Golem''' (C Rdguez. Zaragoza, 23 de septiembre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW411-Rex Pública.jpg|'''Clon #411: Rex Pública''', descendiente del '''Clon #221: IG-88''' (Xarpe Serpe. A Coruña, 2 de octubre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW412-Dratcher.jpg|'''Clon #412: Dratcher''' (Alejandro Nieto. Alicante, 3 de octubre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:414 HYPKE.jpeg| '''Clon #414: HYPKE''', descendiente del '''Clon #165: Goliath''' (DiegoLale. Ourense, 2 de septiembre de 2013)<br />
<br />
File:CW415-R5.png|'''Clon #415: R5''', descendiente del '''Clon #190: [http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Impresora_3D:_R4i3 R4i3]''' (Juan ''«Obijuan»'' González. Madrid, 14 de octubre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW416-Prusa i3 Hephestos.jpg|'''Clon #416: Prusa i3 Hephestos''' (Jordi Alvarez. Barcelona, 6 de octubre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW419-Traum.jpg|'''Clon #419: Traum''' (Juan Pinto. Valencia, 24 de junio de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW420-Prusigenia.jpg|'''Clon #420: Prusigenia''' (Fendetestas72. Lugo, 31 de octubre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Jarvis_P3steel.jpg|'''Clon #422: [[Clone wars: Impresora Jarvis|Jarvis]]''', descendiente del '''Clon #26: [[Clone wars: Impresora Rewok|Rewok]]''' (Ezequiel RR. Barcelona, 3 de noviembre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Joules.jpg|'''Clon #425: [[Clone wars: Impresora Joule|Joule]]''' (Juan Carlos González Perulero. Madrid, 24 de noviembre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW426-Anymon.jpg|'''Clon #426: Anymon''', descendiente del '''Clon #221: IG-88''' (Moncho Estevez. A Coruña, 24 de noviembre de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:Darz Beider.jpg|'''Clon #427: [[http://reprap.org/wiki/Darz_Beider DARZ BEIDER]]''' (Mario Musicò. Pozuelo, 2 de mayo de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW429-BLACK IC3D.jpg|'''Clon #429: BlackIC3D''', descendiente del '''Clon #26: [[Clone wars: Impresora Rewok|Rewok]]''' (Carlos Currás ''«Aisflou»''. Ourense, 16 de diciembre 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW431-JAKE.jpg|'''Clon #431: JAKE''', descendiente del '''Clon #74: LAAT''' (Carlos Gómez. Valencia, 5 de enero del 2015)<br />
<br />
File:CW432-Kaneki.jpg|'''Clon #432: Kaneki''', descendiente del '''Clon: #41''' (David Fernández. León, 8 de enero del 2015)<br />
<br />
File:IMG 20150112 191208.jpg|'''Clon #433: [[Clone wars: Impresora SKYHOOK|SKYHOOK]]''' (''«SKYHOOK»''. Barcelona, 12 de enero de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:Vaccea.jpg|'''Clon #438: [http://reprap.org/wiki/Clone_wars:Impresora_Vaccea Vaccea]''' (Jose Montes. Palencia, 7 de febrero de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:Anakin_podracer.jpg|'''Clon #439: ANAKIN_PODRACER''', descendiente del '''Clon #288: CHEWAAKA''' (''«Whoisnosferatu»''. Tarragona, 19 de febrero de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:CW445-Ashtart.jpg|'''Clon #445: Ashtart''' (Cádiz, 2 de febrero de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:CW446_Somiatruites.jpg|'''Clon #446: Somiatruites''', descendiente del '''Clon #347: Expósito Doblador Rodriguez''' (Enric Sanz. Barcelona, 15 de enero de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:CW448_Pr3.JPG|'''Clon #448: Pr3''', descendiente del '''Clon #429: BlackIC3D''' (''«Atancito»''. Redondela, 15 de marzo de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:CW450_SilverP.JPG|'''Clon #450: SilverP''', descendiente del '''Clon #452: Kamino''' (Miguel Mira ''«oyabac»''. Sevilla, 7 de abril de 2015)<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
==== 451-500 ====<br />
<br />
<gallery widths=200px heights=150px perrow=6><br />
File:Franky3D.jpg|'''Clon #451: Franky3D''', descendiente del clon '''#422: Jarvis''' (Meditando De Modo Altruista. Burgos, 11 de marzo de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:CW454-CNC3DPO.jpg|'''Clon #454: CNC3DPO''' (Jordi Rodriguez ''«JRCrespo»''. Vigo, 16 de abril de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:CW456-Waku3D.jpg|'''Clon #456: Waku3D''', descendiente del clon '''#307: Golem''' (Alex Lema ''«ZeroCool»''. A Coruña, 19 de junio de 2014)<br />
<br />
File:CW458-Dikeiosune.jpg|'''Clon #458: Dikeiosune''', descendiente del clon '''#152: PenBot''' (Juan Machuca GaLaFa_T. Málaga, 5 de mayo de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:SAV V1.jpg|'''Clon #459: SAV V1''' (Angel R. Sánchez. Sevilla, 1 de mayo de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:CW460-Metroid.jpg|'''Clon #460: [[Clone Wars: Impresora Metroid|Metroid]]''' (Luis M. Sales. Castellón, 22 de mayo de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:CW462-Lucy Green.jpg|'''Clon #462: Lucy Green''', descendiente del clon '''#312: Breaking TAZ''' (Mario Crespo. Pontevedra, 30 de mayo de 2015)<br />
<br />
File:Solarmaker.jpg|'''Clon #463: Solarmaker''' (Solarmaker team. Eibar, 18 de junio de 2015)<br />
<br />
<!-- Inserta aquí encima tu clon y deja intacta esta línea para el siguiente --><br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
ATENCIÓN: Antes de insertar una impresora, [http://maytheclonebewithyou.com/ asegúrate de qué número te toca]<br />
<br />
== Clones en la academia Jedi ==<br />
<br />
En la academia Jedi se encuentran '''todos los clones en construcción'''. Una vez que imprimen su primera pieza alcanzan la categoría de Jedi y salen de la Academia<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|- <br />
| [[File:Clone-wars-jedi-academy.png|150px|link=Clone wars: Academia Jedi]]<br />
| [[Clone wars: Academia Jedi/es|ACCESO A LA ACADEMIA JEDI]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Clones en Carbonita ==<br />
Clones sin actividad durante bastante tiempo. Posiblemente hayan abandonado el proyecto<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|- <br />
| [[File:Han-solo-carbonita.jpg|150px|link=Clone wars: Clones en Carbonita]]<br />
| [[Clone wars: Clones en Carbonita| CLONES EN CARBONITA]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Album de fotos y vídeos ==<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center" border="0"<br />
! align="center" colspan="3" | [[Clon_wars:_Album_de_Fotos | Ver Álbum de Fotos completo]]<br />
|- align="center"<br />
| [[File:DSC04024.JPG|200px|link=Clon_wars:_Album_de_Fotos]]<br>'''31/Dic/2011''': Piezas impresas <br> por el Clon R2D2<br />
| [[File:R2D2-cubo-1.jpg|200px|link=Clon_wars:_Album_de_Fotos]]<br>'''24/Dic/2011''': El clon R2D2 ha <br> impreso su primera pieza<br />
| [[File:DSC03885.JPG|200px|link=Clon_wars:_Album_de_Fotos]]<br>'''16/Dic/2011''': Tercera reunión <br> de Clone Wars<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center" <br />
! align="center" colspan="3" border="0" | [[Clone wars: Album de Videos| Ver Álbum de Vídeos completo]]<br />
|- <br />
|| <videoflash>tDHL7AZm_y8|300|250</videoflash><br />
|| <videoflash>oC_1Tjw196Y|300|250</videoflash><br />
|| <videoflash>_Q3XlmnbWrM|300|250</videoflash><br />
|- <br />
|| '''24/Dic/2011''': Clon R2D2. <br> Primera impresión del Clon R2D2<br />
|| '''20/Dic/2011''': Clon R2D2. <br> Probando el extrusor<br />
|| '''12/Jun/2013''': Clon Gutenberg<br>Adaptación a fresadora<br />
|- <br />
|| <videoflash>zNMdKdazemM|300|250</videoflash><br />
|- <br />
|| '''11/Jun/2013''': Clon Gutenberg<br>Prueba de velocidad como plotter<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
|<br />
[[File:Clone-Wars-logo.png|border|100px|link=Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
| [[Proyecto Clone Wars]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Clone wars/es]]</div>XoanSampaiño